I used bicycle brake cables for my push pulls on the further switches. And small lead split shots to secure them in place and a cable loop to hold the outer case. It helped by being flexible to work around obstacles. I got 4 cables at Walmart for $10.
Excellent video. I have found the ‘Bullfrog’ system by Fast Tracks to be highly reliable. They have the ability to switch crossovers with single cable and can accommodate different lengths of cable to suit specific layout configurations. All of them are designed to switch the power at the frog. They are sold as easy to assemble kits.
Dear Larry, Trust that you are keeping well another great Video, those manual Switch Units look really great especially for a small Layout Thanks for a great Critique.
Thanks for your very clear and high quality video as usual. Especially the installation of the Caboose ground throw. It avoids a lot of assembly frustration on my part.
Thanks very much for replying to my comment. Like the work you are doing so l subscribe to your channel to improve mine to get some great ideas. Thanks DD.
Thanks for an excellent video, Larry. I just purchased 6 of the Caboose ground throws for my very small layout. Just the info I needed, and like another reply, I'll definitely use shrink tubing on those connectors.
Greetings from a grateful subscriber. Your videos are very helpful--keep up the good work. I use manual control for my switches, where the crux part is a toggle switch that both controls the frog polarity, as well as a positive positioning of the points. I use a DPDT toggle switch with one push-pull knob to control the two switches in a crossover. (and a few more levers and rods). On unrelated notes, I just ordered your book from Amazon about electronic projects for one's model railroad. I'm looking forward to it. This was inspired by your videos about lighting caboose and passenger cars,, with a bridge rectifier and a capacitor, etc. I'm ordering today the electronic parts to make a bunch of these devices. Also this past week I completed my first DCC install in several years, and my first install with a current keeper - the CC really works well. The engine (S Scale UP SW-9 Switcher) continues to idle for almost ten seconds after shutting the layout DCC down. The decoder was a first generation Tsunami EMD 567. I still have four or five Tsunami 1 steam decoders yet to install. I'm going to retrofit my steamers already with DCC with a current keeper when I get to them. It should be against the law to install a DCC decoder without a current keeper. Thanks!
As long as you have a straight path from your fascia to the Blue Point machine you can use 3/16" doweling to move the switch. MUCH cheaper than the flexible tubing. Just glue a knob to one end and insert a small eyelet in the other. Pry open the eyelet, stick it through the hole in the throw rod and then squeeze it back together. You may have to drill out the hole a bit to get it to fit.
I think it is all engineering plastic and these have been available for ages. I know folks who use the standard version without the switch built in all,over their layouts and have never seen a failure. However as I said in the video I am not enamored with the switch mechanism itself.
I decided to go with the Blue Point machines after watching your British Layout video series. I have a switching layout so they've had heavy use. I've had almost no problems with them. My only complaint, is the little wooden handle. They spin around and over time, end up unscrewing themselves. It's rather annoying but other than that, they've been great. (Thanks for all the video's by the way! This channel is a gold mine of info for younger guys like me new to the hobby.)
Thanks Larry. Very interesting. The Caboose Industries thing looks ingenious (despite the production issues you highlighted): in fact it reminded me of a very similar metal lever we had on a layout way back in the late 1960s! Though that didn't do frog polarity switching. I wonder if you have come across the Great Chesterford Junction channel here on CZcams? He has manufactured his own manual point operation system, operated by signal box type levers in a frame on the control panel, which operate wires under the baseboard, through various bellcranks and what have you. Way beyond my manufacturing abilities, but curiously satisfying to watch!
10 years or so ago, Great Chesterford Junction showed how to manually throw turnouts using a single hole the size of whatever spring wire you chose to use. Under the layout the same spring wire is bent 90 degrees in whatever direction is best to translate to the lateral motion of a push-pull rod, which could easily operate a slide switch as you've shown. That superior idea never got the attention it deserved, except that all of my manual throws are designed that way. Why so many choose to flop back and forth like a fish on a dock, rather than pirouette like a ballerina is a mystery to me.
Nice production. You left out the Bullfrog from FastTracks. Not that I like them, but it is a good inexpensive option. The throw distance at the fascia is to far for my liking. That said I do not like the size of the Caboose throws with contacts, but a nice combo would be the small Caboose throws with a frog juicer or the like. The Blue point controllers are nice but if you can find threaded rod use it for a more solid feal when throwing a turnout. Those flex rods are spongy and many times require repair somewhere along the line.
OK...But the first showing involved buying the 3D printed housing or whatever. There is an even simpler solution.... That of a simple DPDT switch. In this way and by being dual pole we can solder up wires to the switch to operate LEDS. The switch itself is activated by a crude 6mm dowel rod. It does not bend, needs no rod in tubes and unnecessary adornments. From the " slide switch" two holes are drilled into the slider. One for the bar and the other for the push rod. It is really simple.
Hi Larry, another great tutorial. Do the caboose ground throws work on the new Walthers turnouts and if so would you remove the clips from the turnouts or leave them in so it’s a more positive hold on the rail? I heard you say they will change the polarity of the frog but will it also control a signal?
They should since that was the turnout I was using for the demo. They might be ok with these since they have a set throw distance. Some Caboose ground throws have a spring built into the throw mechanism but these do not.
Stupid question time.........I have several turnouts with Caboose manual ground throws and unpowered frogs. I expect that I could solder a feed to the frog and run that to a single throw or even a double throw switch and power and phase the frog "manually". Correct? I would have to perform two actions to accomplish a switch but it would still work I think. Yes? I know, stupid question. haha Power your frogs in the first place and you will be fine!
Yes, you could do that but every tome someone forgets to throw the SPDT or DODT switch the resulting short will shut things down and likely be moe annoying than the dead frog.
@@TheDCCGuy I thought that would be the case. But I am a one man show so I would just get mad at myself! You do a great job my friend! Look forward to watching every week!
Larry, just watched this lesson last night. Want to give a try to the Caboose throws. What temp did you use for your soldering pen? Assume it's a digital (Hakko?) rig. What temp for 22-28AWG feeder wires onto/under sides of code 55 rail? Thank you. - Noel
Noel-I always tell folks to start with a temp a few degrees above the melting point of the solder they use and working with some scrap wire or track, practice until you get good results, increasing the temp gradually. A quick Google search will give you lists of melting points. This is especially helpful when working with a new iron or type off solder.
Those Caboose Ind.contraptions are nothing if not imaginative. But ..., 22 minutes and 3 manual throw method demonstrations and not a mention of choke cables -- how times have changed!
I wonder how many folks now know what a choke cable is? I actually looked into them when I did the original Blue Point videos and if I remember correctly they were a more expensive option, possibly because few cars have a manual choke cable with a button on the dashboard anymore. I think they are more readily available now for motorcycles.
@@TheDCCGuy Larry, I wonder if bicycle shifter cable might take the place of choke cable? I haven't seen or tried, it, but it might be a possibility. Thanks for the great video!
Can you use the regular Caboose throws (not the 119) with a Blue Point underneath to control the frog? Or can the Blue Points replicate the sprung function of Peco turnouts on no Peco ones?
You can use either the Caboose ground throws or Blue points to throw the points but only the Blue Points have a switch for frog polarity. I originally used the Blue Point switch machines with Peco turnouts on the modules and did a couple of videos on that installation.
Gene-the fellow who wanted them backed out as he has almost 2 1/2” thick subroadbed so was afraid the Blue Points won’t worked. So I do have 11 of them and will sell you 6 for $8 each plus shipping. I will include all the hardware and the pushrods although you may need to modify the pushrods for your layout.
@@TheDCCGuy you are probably right; but I will have to look into it and see what I can come up with later when I have the time to study it and do some sketches to work out a solution.
What i do not understand it this: Why do you people call it a Point? it is a switch, isn't it? It switches the train from one track to the other. A turnout i can understand, but a point makes no sense for me. I am dutch. I am trying to find stuff online, but the fact that sometimes it is called a switch, other times a point, and other times a turnout, it does not make life easier. Can any of the people who were born and raised in a country where the English language is spoken enlighten me?
Technically it is a turnout although switch is also commonly used for the whole thing. The points are the specific ends of the rails that move. I did a video a few years go on turnouts and the names for all the various parts. In the UK they refer to the entire turnout as a point.
That clears things up a bit. Thanks for these videos btw. I have just restarted this hobby. As a small boy we had a huge setup. My father and i. But in those days i had no idea of money, and how expensive quality model trains are. And so, you can guess where this is going. Not many survived in working condition. I always found a way to burn the engines of the locs. Now a bit older i seriously regret that, but tja, we ain't all born with a fully functioning brain. Either way, now i know how fun it can be, but do have to learn a lot. And your videos help out a lot. @@TheDCCGuy
ps, sorry, but i am going to write you a book. (this comment i mean.) You are free to read or not read. Some people think i am a troll because i write book length comments. Anyways, i am dutch, excuse the grammar and spelling errors. So far for the prologue, here is the book which contains a few questions. I have yet to start buildings a landscape, a layout for the tracks, etc. I have just started collecting the stuff needed for to build something nice. And, as a noob i have obviously already made a few mistakes. Like buying Märklin trains which require AC and a third rail, and expecting them to work on DC rail. I put it on the rail and thought: Doh, it is broken already..... But then i figured it out. And so now i am obviously first going in one direction. The DC route. And lateron bring in the AC Märklin trains. Or Marklin. Or i will resell em, also a possibility. Anyways, the system we had when i was a child, i can recall it to be DC. Simple controllers, simple stuff. But, now we can watch CZcams and discover that even DC is not that simple. Not if you want more out of it than just running a train around a loop. I also am not an electrician. And so that complicates it even further. But i have seen plenty of videos and still am watching em. And, my brain sometimes does work a bit. Isolation of track, brilliant. Switchboard to switch between the isolated parts. That is something i had thought of and saw in a video. But now here is a question: I could switch all of it to DCC. I have seen that DCC can run on DC track etc. All i need is DCC Locs and controllers to control them, right? But, i was thinking myself.... Why would i even go that route? Why not keep it DC? Isolate parts of the track. A switch board with manual switches to control the electric circuit to switch the blocks of track. And, i was thinking of incorporating timed switches like you can use to turn on and off a lightbulb or what ever appliance. Sure, could become a bulky project if i install dozens of such timers. But i envision it working just as a DCC system would. So the timer controls when the track becomes live. Sending the stationary train that is sitting on it on its way. And if every isolated section is timed in such a manner, i do not need a fancy computer. I could do with the cheap timers which we use to turn on and off a light bulb (or whatever). What are your thoughts on that? Then about the scenery. I have seen videos explaining you should plan everything. The power set up, the wiring i mean. But why not stick a conductive material on a plank of wood, or a board or how you wanna call it. Then a layer of isolation. And then again a conductive layer ontop of that. If you were to put juice on those layers, you only would have to cut out a small portion at any point on the board/plank to have power. Right? So, a huge plank/board with the setup as described. And i would no longer have to think about running wires to specific places to power a small lightbulb. Right? Or do you see a problem in my way of thinking? Another idea: I was thinking of building my own turn tables. So the train will be turned around or set up to drive a different track. I was thinking of using microwave oven motors, those that turn the table inside. Any thoughts on that? As for how to line everything up, i got an idea as well. Small end stops so the turn table wont move any further and the tracks line up. And last but not least: i was thinking of using reed switches and small magnets stuck underneath the train to do some stuff. Switching switches or points for example. So that when one train passes, the switch switches. But when another passes it wont. Depending on if there is a magnet underneath. Etc. All i am interested in is hearing your thoughts on all of this. I understand that DCC might be easier and the way to go. But i like tinkering a bit with it. Thanks in advance if you happen to reply. I can not expect you to read all of this. Noob questions can be boring @@TheDCCGuy
@@TheDCCGuy Quick question…I model in N Scale and my base is made up of 1/4” luan ply, 2” foam and 1/8” cork road bed. Will these work properly with the required throw… Thank you
@@TheDCCGuy Larry, Thank you…I believe that the max base thickness for Bluepoint is 1 3/4”…unfortunately my base thickness is 2 3/8”…since I model in n scale the throw rod hole would need to exceed the width of the track to possibly work correctly…that said…I’ll need to withdraw my interest for the 11 Bluepoint sets you have. Thank you again, Randy
I think they are made of engineering plastic. These have been in use for ages and at least the standard ground throws seem to never fail. However as I said in the video I am not enamored with the SPDT switch but it does work.
I used bicycle brake cables for my push pulls on the further switches. And small lead split shots to secure them in place and a cable loop to hold the outer case. It helped by being flexible to work around obstacles. I got 4 cables at Walmart for $10.
Great idea and a great price.
Excellent video. I have found the ‘Bullfrog’ system by Fast Tracks to be highly reliable. They have the ability to switch crossovers with single cable and can accommodate different lengths of cable to suit specific layout configurations. All of them are designed to switch the power at the frog. They are sold as easy to assemble kits.
Dear Larry, Trust that you are keeping well another great Video, those manual Switch Units look really great especially for a small Layout Thanks for a great Critique.
THANK YOU FOR SHARING THE VIDEO
DO NOT LAST IDEAL MANUAL POINT OPERATION
Thanks for your very clear and high quality video as usual. Especially the installation of the Caboose ground throw. It avoids a lot of assembly frustration on my part.
Very nice video lots going on like the detail thanks DD.
Thanks very much for replying to my comment. Like the work you are doing so l subscribe to your channel to improve mine to get some great ideas. Thanks DD.
Thanks for an excellent video, Larry. I just purchased 6 of the Caboose ground throws for my very small layout. Just the info I needed, and like another reply, I'll definitely use shrink tubing on those connectors.
One can buy from K&S directly too. They are very good! I did it this month. Thanks for sharing! Great video!
Greetings from a grateful subscriber. Your videos are very helpful--keep up the good work. I use manual control for my switches, where the crux part is a toggle switch that both controls the frog polarity, as well as a positive positioning of the points. I use a DPDT toggle switch with one push-pull knob to control the two switches in a crossover. (and a few more levers and rods).
On unrelated notes, I just ordered your book from Amazon about electronic projects for one's model railroad. I'm looking forward to it. This was inspired by your videos about lighting caboose and passenger cars,, with a bridge rectifier and a capacitor, etc. I'm ordering today the electronic parts to make a bunch of these devices.
Also this past week I completed my first DCC install in several years, and my first install with a current keeper - the CC really works well. The engine (S Scale UP SW-9 Switcher) continues to idle for almost ten seconds after shutting the layout DCC down. The decoder was a first generation Tsunami EMD 567. I still have four or five Tsunami 1 steam decoders yet to install. I'm going to retrofit my steamers already with DCC with a current keeper when I get to them. It should be against the law to install a DCC decoder without a current keeper. Thanks!
As long as you have a straight path from your fascia to the Blue Point machine you can use 3/16" doweling to move the switch. MUCH cheaper than the flexible tubing. Just glue a knob to one end and insert a small eyelet in the other. Pry open the eyelet, stick it through the hole in the throw rod and then squeeze it back together. You may have to drill out the hole a bit to get it to fit.
I think it is all engineering plastic and these have been available for ages. I know folks who use the standard version without the switch built in all,over their layouts and have never seen a failure. However as I said in the video I am not enamored with the switch mechanism itself.
I decided to go with the Blue Point machines after watching your British Layout video series. I have a switching layout so they've had heavy use. I've had almost no problems with them. My only complaint, is the little wooden handle. They spin around and over time, end up unscrewing themselves. It's rather annoying but other than that, they've been great. (Thanks for all the video's by the way! This channel is a gold mine of info for younger guys like me new to the hobby.)
Maybe a little PVA glue on the screw threads would help.
@@TheDCCGuy I'll give that a go. Thanks Larry!
That was very helpful - thanks a lot!
Thanks Larry. Very interesting. The Caboose Industries thing looks ingenious (despite the production issues you highlighted): in fact it reminded me of a very similar metal lever we had on a layout way back in the late 1960s! Though that didn't do frog polarity switching.
I wonder if you have come across the Great Chesterford Junction channel here on CZcams? He has manufactured his own manual point operation system, operated by signal box type levers in a frame on the control panel, which operate wires under the baseboard, through various bellcranks and what have you. Way beyond my manufacturing abilities, but curiously satisfying to watch!
Thank you for sharing. Great how-to video. Enjoyed.
10 years or so ago, Great Chesterford Junction showed how to manually throw turnouts using a single hole the size of whatever spring wire you chose to use. Under the layout the same spring wire is bent 90 degrees in whatever direction is best to translate to the lateral motion of a push-pull rod, which could easily operate a slide switch as you've shown. That superior idea never got the attention it deserved, except that all of my manual throws are designed that way. Why so many choose to flop back and forth like a fish on a dock, rather than pirouette like a ballerina is a mystery to me.
Yes, it sounds like the mechanism Jim Hediger wrote about in MR 20-30 years ago. However it doesn’t provide any power to the frog.
@@TheDCCGuy The point is your slider switch is easy to add as you did with the flop back and forth approach.
スライドスイッチをピアノ線で操作(manipulation)するって発想は、面白いですね
Nice production. You left out the Bullfrog from FastTracks. Not that I like them, but it is a good inexpensive option. The throw distance at the fascia is to far for my liking. That said I do not like the size of the Caboose throws with contacts, but a nice combo would be the small Caboose throws with a frog juicer or the like. The Blue point controllers are nice but if you can find threaded rod use it for a more solid feal when throwing a turnout. Those flex rods are spongy and many times require repair somewhere along the line.
OK...But the first showing involved buying the 3D printed housing or whatever.
There is an even simpler solution....
That of a simple DPDT switch.
In this way and by being dual pole we can solder up wires to the switch to operate LEDS.
The switch itself is activated by a crude 6mm dowel rod.
It does not bend, needs no rod in tubes and unnecessary adornments.
From the " slide switch" two holes are drilled into the slider.
One for the bar and the other for the push rod.
It is really simple.
Larry, can we get a demo of the Walthers Turnout Servos being hooked up to the new Digitrax controller/decoder?
Hi Larry, another great tutorial. Do the caboose ground throws work on the new Walthers turnouts and if so would you remove the clips from the turnouts or leave them in so it’s a more positive hold on the rail? I heard you say they will change the polarity of the frog but will it also control a signal?
They should since that was the turnout I was using for the demo. They might be ok with these since they have a set throw distance. Some Caboose ground throws have a spring built into the throw mechanism but these do not.
Stupid question time.........I have several turnouts with Caboose manual ground throws and unpowered frogs. I expect that I could solder a feed to the frog and run that to a single throw or even a double throw switch and power and phase the frog "manually". Correct? I would have to perform two actions to accomplish a switch but it would still work I think. Yes? I know, stupid question. haha Power your frogs in the first place and you will be fine!
Yes, you could do that but every tome someone forgets to throw the SPDT or DODT switch the resulting short will shut things down and likely be moe annoying than the dead frog.
@@TheDCCGuy I thought that would be the case. But I am a one man show so I would just get mad at myself! You do a great job my friend! Look forward to watching every week!
Happy to have you with us-Larry
Larry, just watched this lesson last night. Want to give a try to the Caboose throws. What temp did you use for your soldering pen? Assume it's a digital (Hakko?) rig. What temp for 22-28AWG feeder wires onto/under sides of code 55 rail? Thank you. - Noel
Noel-I always tell folks to start with a temp a few degrees above the melting point of the solder they use and working with some scrap wire or track, practice until you get good results, increasing the temp gradually. A quick Google search will give you lists of melting points. This is especially helpful when working with a new iron or type off solder.
Larry,
Do you know where I can order the adjustment yoke ends on the cables?
Some folks use auto choke cables and those made for use with Blue Point Switch Machines would work.
Love your videos! Are any of these still available? Thank you.
As far as I know they all are.
@@TheDCCGuy I'm sorry, I mean the ones you have for sale...my bad.
Do you mean the Blue Point switch machines? I do have those as the individual who initially asked for them backed out.
@@TheDCCGuy Yes sir...sorry, should have been more specific when first asking.
Did you ever get rid of those Blue Point Switch Machines, or are they still available? I kinda lost track of this.
Those Caboose Ind.contraptions are nothing if not imaginative. But ..., 22 minutes and 3 manual throw method demonstrations and not a mention of choke cables -- how times have changed!
I wonder how many folks now know what a choke cable is? I actually looked into them when I did the original Blue Point videos and if I remember correctly they were a more expensive option, possibly because few cars have a manual choke cable with a button on the dashboard anymore. I think they are more readily available now for motorcycles.
@@TheDCCGuy Larry, I wonder if bicycle shifter cable might take the place of choke cable? I haven't seen or tried, it, but it might be a possibility. Thanks for the great video!
Any of those should work. You could also use the pushrods and hardware for the Blue Point switch machines.
So you still have any more of those manual throw blue items if so I would l Like to purchase three
Can you use the regular Caboose throws (not the 119) with a Blue Point underneath to control the frog? Or can the Blue Points replicate the sprung function of Peco turnouts on no Peco ones?
You can use either the Caboose ground throws or Blue points to throw the points but only the Blue Points have a switch for frog polarity. I originally used the Blue Point switch machines with Peco turnouts on the modules and did a couple of videos on that installation.
I am interested in the bullfrog
If these are still available, I could use six. Just let me know if they are available, how much and how to best get you payment. Thanks
Gene, I have someone else interested in them and am waiting to hear back from him so I’ll have to let you know.
Gene-the fellow who wanted them backed out as he has almost 2 1/2” thick subroadbed so was afraid the Blue Points won’t worked. So I do have 11 of them and will sell you 6 for $8 each plus shipping. I will include all the hardware and the pushrods although you may need to modify the pushrods for your layout.
Larry what if wanted to use both manuel and servo switch machine on the same turnout?
It would not work as the manual method basically locks the throw bar on the turnout in place.
@@TheDCCGuy you are probably right; but I will have to look into it and see what I can come up with later when I have the time to study it and do some sketches to work out a solution.
Can you use that to control dwarf signals?
Yes, with a DPDT switch one set of poles could power the frog and the others the dwarf signal.
I would be interested in some switch machines
Do,you mean the Blue Point manual ones? How many would you want?
@@TheDCCGuy yes if still available
@@TheDCCGuy looking for about 8. If possible
@@brianmullins5931 did I respond to this? I am afraid it got buried in the avalanche.
What i do not understand it this:
Why do you people call it a Point? it is a switch, isn't it?
It switches the train from one track to the other.
A turnout i can understand, but a point makes no sense for me.
I am dutch.
I am trying to find stuff online, but the fact that sometimes it is called a switch, other times a point, and other times a turnout, it does not make life easier.
Can any of the people who were born and raised in a country where the English language is spoken enlighten me?
Technically it is a turnout although switch is also commonly used for the whole thing. The points are the specific ends of the rails that move. I did a video a few years go on turnouts and the names for all the various parts. In the UK they refer to the entire turnout as a point.
That clears things up a bit.
Thanks for these videos btw. I have just restarted this hobby.
As a small boy we had a huge setup. My father and i. But in those days i had no idea of money, and how expensive quality model trains are. And so, you can guess where this is going.
Not many survived in working condition. I always found a way to burn the engines of the locs.
Now a bit older i seriously regret that, but tja, we ain't all born with a fully functioning brain.
Either way, now i know how fun it can be, but do have to learn a lot. And your videos help out a lot.
@@TheDCCGuy
ps, sorry, but i am going to write you a book. (this comment i mean.)
You are free to read or not read. Some people think i am a troll because i write book length comments.
Anyways, i am dutch, excuse the grammar and spelling errors.
So far for the prologue, here is the book which contains a few questions.
I have yet to start buildings a landscape, a layout for the tracks, etc.
I have just started collecting the stuff needed for to build something nice.
And, as a noob i have obviously already made a few mistakes. Like buying Märklin trains which require AC and a third rail, and expecting them to work on DC rail.
I put it on the rail and thought: Doh, it is broken already.....
But then i figured it out.
And so now i am obviously first going in one direction. The DC route. And lateron bring in the AC Märklin trains. Or Marklin.
Or i will resell em, also a possibility.
Anyways, the system we had when i was a child, i can recall it to be DC. Simple controllers, simple stuff.
But, now we can watch CZcams and discover that even DC is not that simple.
Not if you want more out of it than just running a train around a loop.
I also am not an electrician.
And so that complicates it even further.
But i have seen plenty of videos and still am watching em.
And, my brain sometimes does work a bit.
Isolation of track, brilliant.
Switchboard to switch between the isolated parts.
That is something i had thought of and saw in a video.
But now here is a question:
I could switch all of it to DCC. I have seen that DCC can run on DC track etc.
All i need is DCC Locs and controllers to control them, right?
But, i was thinking myself....
Why would i even go that route?
Why not keep it DC?
Isolate parts of the track.
A switch board with manual switches to control the electric circuit to switch the blocks of track.
And, i was thinking of incorporating timed switches like you can use to turn on and off a lightbulb or what ever appliance.
Sure, could become a bulky project if i install dozens of such timers.
But i envision it working just as a DCC system would.
So the timer controls when the track becomes live.
Sending the stationary train that is sitting on it on its way.
And if every isolated section is timed in such a manner, i do not need a fancy computer. I could do with the cheap timers which we use to turn on and off a light bulb (or whatever).
What are your thoughts on that?
Then about the scenery.
I have seen videos explaining you should plan everything.
The power set up, the wiring i mean.
But why not stick a conductive material on a plank of wood, or a board or how you wanna call it.
Then a layer of isolation. And then again a conductive layer ontop of that.
If you were to put juice on those layers, you only would have to cut out a small portion at any point on the board/plank to have power. Right?
So, a huge plank/board with the setup as described. And i would no longer have to think about running wires to specific places to power a small lightbulb.
Right?
Or do you see a problem in my way of thinking?
Another idea: I was thinking of building my own turn tables. So the train will be turned around or set up to drive a different track.
I was thinking of using microwave oven motors, those that turn the table inside.
Any thoughts on that?
As for how to line everything up, i got an idea as well. Small end stops so the turn table wont move any further and the tracks line up.
And last but not least: i was thinking of using reed switches and small magnets stuck underneath the train to do some stuff.
Switching switches or points for example.
So that when one train passes, the switch switches. But when another passes it wont.
Depending on if there is a magnet underneath.
Etc.
All i am interested in is hearing your thoughts on all of this.
I understand that DCC might be easier and the way to go. But i like tinkering a bit with it.
Thanks in advance if you happen to reply. I can not expect you to read all of this. Noob questions can be boring @@TheDCCGuy
🚂❤️😎👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
How do I contact you for the purchase of the 12 machines…
You just did. Actually there are only 11 of them and 2 are brand new. Let me come up with a price and I’ll get back to you here today.
@@TheDCCGuy
Thank you
@@TheDCCGuy
Quick question…I model in N Scale and my base is made up of 1/4” luan ply, 2” foam and 1/8” cork road bed. Will these work properly with the required throw…
Thank you
Sorry but my internet was down most of yesterday so did not get to research your question. Hopefully today-Larry
@@TheDCCGuy
Larry,
Thank you…I believe that the max base thickness for Bluepoint is 1 3/4”…unfortunately my base thickness is 2 3/8”…since I model in n scale the throw rod hole would need to exceed the width of the track to possibly work correctly…that said…I’ll need to withdraw my interest for the 11 Bluepoint sets you have.
Thank you again,
Randy
That last one looks like it's set up for failure. Not the way you did it, but all the plastic involved.
I think they are made of engineering plastic. These have been in use for ages and at least the standard ground throws seem to never fail. However as I said in the video I am not enamored with the SPDT switch but it does work.
I would add some heat tubing at the bottom of the three prongs and the connecting wires.
I believe it is Delrin engineering plastic, strong but also slippery.
Why not use green for the frog?
Works for me.