The Isle of Secrets - Orford Ness (4K)
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- čas přidán 6. 09. 2024
- A visit to Orford Ness in Suffolk, once a top secret military research site and today operated by the National Trust. Thanks to my supporters on Patreon for making videos like this possible / johnrogers
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Orford Ness is a 10-mile long shingle spit along the Suffolk Coast coast - only accessible by ferry. It was once a top secret research military research centre that came into operation in 1912 and was closed in 1985 when it was taken over by the Nation Trust. For many years forbidden to approach the island. I visited on the last weekend of Afterness - a series of installations commissioned by Artangel that includes works by Ilya Kaminsky, Emma McNally, Chris Watson, Alice Channer and others. More details can be found here www.artangel.o...
Orford Ness is an extraordinary location. Some of the military buildings have been retained and allowed to naturally decay. The site includes the Cobra Mist radar masts built in early 40’s.
WG Sebald wrote about a journey to Orford Ness in his book The Rings of Saturn. Sebald found it a desolate lonely place. For me it is one of the most extraordinary places in the whole of Britain.
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Growing up in Ipswich, Orford was a regular destination on week-end afternoons. I can remember a WW2 landing craft being used as the ferry boat to Orford Island. There's a footpath near the castle that takes you to the Butley river; there used to be a ferry you had to book in advance if you wanted to get across the river. The "ferry" was a bloke with a rowing boat. Not too far from Orford is Bawdsey Manor which was where radar was developed. It used to be an RAF base. Just outside Bawdsey is East Lane, where you'll find the remains of a WW2 coastal defence battery. A fascinating part of Suffolk that's well worth exploring.
My Sunday evening relaxation time
I recently read Daphne Du Maurier’s short story The Breakthrough which is about an obscure military base on the suffolk coast undertaking strange experiments with consciousness and life and death. Watching this I can see what landscape inspired her to write the story! Amazing video, thank you!
When I visited I got chatting to one of the staff members that grew up in Orford. On asking about The Rendlesham incident he told me he was a contract worker at the base during that time and whatever happened had really shaken up the US personnel. He also mentioned seeing a large glowing object himself on the Ness that he couldn’t explain…..he was an extremely pleasant man and very down to earth.
Such a bleak place, yet it appeared to give off a sense of mystery coupled with the pursuit of destruction, I think your experience captured this and it came across in abundance, the sound track music for this vid was just perfect, haunting and cold war thought provoking, this is probably your best one so far John, thank you matey, loved it.
Dave in Thailand.
well put. .
Hello from Muskegon, Michigan, USA. Thank you for sharing your adventure. I will be in the area in the fall and was curious about this location. Great job. 👍
I first found your films when I was in hospital last year, I had heard of most of the places you go to but couldn’t point to them on a map, which what makes it so interesting. I really love your films. Sebald is a wonderful writer and I’m really interested in anything to do with him. Thanks again John.PS I met Roger Deakin a number of times, a sad loss
I’m reading Roger Deakin’s Notes from Walnut Tree Farm at the moment- such a wonderful voice. Must have been a pleasure to meet him. Thanks for the comment John
Wow!!! I’m 46, A confirmed Cumbrian I used to spend my childhood holidays in Ipswich at my Aunts. I loved this area and this castle as a child I thought it was mysterious.it’s brilliant to see it still is.
What a fascinating place. Will have to watch this a few times to take it all in. Amazing what hidden secrets this country has.
Well worth a trip next Spring Sean
Look forward to this every Sunday now
Many thanks for another lovely walk. Something special about the Suffolk coast. So much more isolated and undiscovered than the more well known and tourist favoured Norfolk coastline. We had our holiday at Saxmundham this year and loved it.
Much of the Suffolk coast is isolated, with the exceptions of Felixstowe, Aldeburgh, Southwold and Lowestoft. Lots of fascinating places to visit.
My late grandfather worked there during WW2, he told his family it was a desolate place calling it RAF Awfulness!! However, I think he had a much better time there than he let on. I've been around the site a couple of years ago. The Cobra Mist site never worked properly as it was very noisy. After it was stripped out Engineers commented that it was induced noise on the mains supply coming under the river from the mainland.
In my early army career I was based nearby at Woodbridge and helped out with removing the original COBRA radio installation. This is part of what helped increase the early warning up to 15 minutes. Today that area is home to Radio Caroline's transmitter. A lot of what was done there was apparently experimental stuff rather than as active part of the UK's defence program. Paul Greengrass in his book "Spy Catcher" mentioned working at Orfordness
Wow, fascinating spot cheers John. And so close to Rendlesham, makes sense.
I lived just across the river from there while posted at RAF Bentwaters in the 1980’s & 1990’s. Never even knew that existed! I thought it was just an area of open ground between Orford & the sea. Your intro brought back a flood of memories of Orford...many wonderful evenings at the King’s Head,
Yes John,when you have been to a very special place,it does feel like that you have been away for ever from civilization,i have had the same feeling when i walked alone in the Orkney islands from Kirkwall to the Churchill barriers on Lamb Holm (About 7 miles) when i was a teenager,it was like going back in time visiting all those wartime derelict installations and no one encountered on my journey,pretty well empty in the 1970's,when i returned it took a little time to readjust to the town again,know the feeling.Thank you for the tour,one of your best,cheers,Sean
I bet that was amazing Sean - thanks for sharing that
@@JohnRogersWalks No problem,cheers Sean
Just stumbled upon this brilliant upload. Thank you. The drawback, however, is I now have to watch all your other postings lol. Thanks again
Thanks very much- hope you enjoy the other videos
Visited three years ago in July,god it was a hot day,we walked miles round the ness,went up the lighthouse whichwas amazing sad it’s now gone,people need too visit this place,so much history,well done John.
Great walk, love those eery, clandestine secrets and history. Ive not been. It’s now on my list. This year I was at Stockton on Tees /Seal Sands. It felt vast and with the petrochemical area along that North East coast and power station. Fascinating walking areas, great for photography, especially with sea and skies. I find them so cinematic and the enigmatic colours reflecting. It can feel quite sci-fi and old B movies. Thank you. See you next time.
We spent two weeks there in April, right next to the castle. I could have seen you out the window at the end of the video across the field. What an eerie place the Ness is though I was transfixed with it where ever I walked when I was there
Great to see this video. It brought back many fond memories for me. My Father was attendant of Orfordness Lighthouse and I spent many hours on the Ness with him during that time and even learned to drive on the roads and tracks over there.
Well done John - so entertaining - and you mention Woodbridge. My Father was born and brought up in the town. His postman was a Mr Eno who kept talking about his son's aspirations to be a musician.... I guess you could say Brian fulfilled his dream! - keep well.
You are such a pro, love the way you put sound an vision together, you make it look easy i admire your passion.
Many thanks indeed
Stunning place to walk round.
A place I keep meaning to visit, One day I will . Thank You.
Thank you John - I had no idea this place even existed - Defo a trip up the A12 is needed - have a great week.
really good these films. I want to visit these places now. never knew they existed
Just what I needed.. full chill! As always. Cheers Mush.
Thanks Wayne
A very strange landscape (or, perhaps mysteryscape) John. And, a very nice evocation of W.G. Sebald. Great stuff! 👍
That was brilliant John. Thank you 👏
Thanks Sally
Thank you, John: your most atmospheric film yet, I think. It reminded me of Jonathan Miller's "Whistle and I'll come to you": same part of the coast, of course. Definitely on my list to visit next year.
thanks John
So uncanny; stunning yet terrifying too... Thanks so much John, for the history, your thoughts and the amazing atmosphere that you always manage to capture in spades! Your cinematography here is spot on, the imagery is hauntingly beautiful yet scary too, it's inspiring me to paint yet again.
Lovely part of the world - we visited during a stay in Aldeburgh. Smashing memories, thank you John.
Thanks John, another fantastic walk, so much like Foulness where you walked recently, a truly surreal landscape populated by echoes of the past.
I have always loved Orford, the village is lovely, the castle keep is good, but never got to the island, it was always closed off when I regularly visited. I will have to do the Island in the spring. Especially as I live the other side of Suffolk so probably as long a trip as John had.
I love the production of your videos, amazingly chilled, great photography & music, interest insights.
Many thanks indeed Chris
Fascinating visit, really enjoyed that.
Totally captivating visuals and thoughtful commentary. Thank you
My pleasure Chris thanks for watching
Definitely recommend visiting dungerness if you haven't done so already
After the nightmare morning I am having, thank you John for bringing me back down to earth again.
sorry to hear about your morning Paul - glad the video helped
What a complete contrast from the streets of the London suburbs John. One of the joys of this channel is the "wherever that may be" element; keeps me coming back anyway.👍
Great video, and fantastic timing: I'm wrapping up a discussion of The Rings of Saturn in an introductory literature course this week. We watched the Southwald to Dunwich video last week. It helped the students visualize the landscape and the seascape that Sebald was walking throught , though it didn't really do much with helping the students catch every single drift in the narrative. That would be a lot to ask a video, of course.
(I See Silence is one of the books I'll be assigning in a contemporary poetry class next semester, so we'll be back!)
Wonderful stuff David - sounds like a great course and I love the idea of students watching the video for their work
This has been on my list of places to visit for a long time . Such a desolate and secretive place we can only imagine what went on there . Thank for taking us with you John
All the best for the coming week👍🏻
It’s amazing Ian, you won’t be disappointed. Many thanks
Brilliant and thank you. I’d love to visit, and could do, but somehow a place like that needs peace and not literary tourists like myself walking in footsteps of Sebald, Rogers and McFarlane.
My understanding was that the "Cobra Mist" antennas were removed before the site was abandoned by MoD. The mast positions may be seen on a Google Earth view; the antennas at 11:23 are the remnants of the old BBC World Service transmitter which is still a designated emergency transmission site but is currently in use with only one of those towers by Radio Caroline on 648 kHz with a low power 1kW transmitter, but which will soon be allowed to increase its power level. Worth a listen.
That keep was built over 1,000yrs ago, what a nation we are, no wonder the Channel is full of tourists. Good vid I so enjoyed my first John Rogers ' Film '...
This video is amazing the way you explained the history of the place totally captivating, and I love the military history, thanks John 👍
Cheers Michael
@@JohnRogersWalks your very welcome
I love your work John.A nostalgic walk with a history lesson..Boomm
There was supposedly chared soldiers washed up in German uniform, just south of there at a place called shingle Street. Its was supposedly an advanced party of an invasion. Which I believe would have attacked Ipswich and Harwich Harbour from behind where you were a few weeks back, due to being a large natural harbour. It's all rumour though.
i found a german bullet clip while metal detecting there .also landmine trigger buttons!
Nice one John.
Thanks Little Acorns
Love Orford (nice pub there) and the coastline there up to Dunwich etc.Never made it to those intriguing buildings on Orford Ness…
Some beautiful watery east coast light there
Yet again another great video , I've visited this place a few times, great atmosphere especially the secrets of its past , have you ever done a film walk of Dugness it reminds me a bit of orford , the flatness and the shingle beach , worth a visit especially Derek jarmens house, I'm sure you've been there. All the from kernow.
Just fantastic to watch, great commentary. Glad I discovered your channel, such a wonderful rabbit hole to disappear down!
Absolutely mesmerising ! Mr Chris and I will definitely visit in 2022 . Thank you and so surprising . Quatermass on Sunday evening xxx
You’ll love it Morrigan
@@JohnRogersWalks I like those ‘ odd ‘ places . Dungeness is another xxx
I had a thrilling afternoon at Sutton Hoo a couple of years ago, one of the best places I ever visited. Highly recommended.
I have recently discovered your walks and talks John, and it's become pretty much my go-to place on CZcams at the moment. I am really enjoying your skills as a cinematographer, your care with audio and music, how you share your knowledge, and the style that you wrap this all up in. It's beguiling, whimsical, fun, educational, it's just wonderful. Thank you for doing what you do. I'm exploring the back catalogue and was intrigued to see where you started some time ago. You've inspired me to dust off the Brashers and also to head over to your Patreon page to make a small donation which I hope in some way helps. Hopefully, everyone who watches will support what you do. Thank you for making your part of CZcams a fabulous place.
What an amazing place, Thanks for such an inspiring video John.
Thanks Mark - glad you enjoyed it
Well filmed you have caught the wide open skies feel. I have sailed the River Ore, and is an odd experience.
The most eeriest place I’ve seen would not want to stay there at night. Could not see or hear any wildlife . Great film John 😊👍
Thank you john although i was from colchester i used to. go to that part quite often on sundays. Suffolk is a magical place i will return to uk soon. Thanks again. Rob
Wonderful video, thanks. My mind was going off on one. A great setting for a Brit Horror film. Bit Creep-esque if you will. An individual remains, post closure, to carry on the work...and not everyone returns to the mainland. The Last Ferry Home... lol. Thanks, as ever.
Wonderfully atmospheric place, and an excellent video to reflect that - 26 thoroughly enjoyable minutes. Sebald would have loved it. On my list.
What a beautiful,wild and desolate place but stunning for the history and scenery alone.Glad you managed to recover with some liquid refreshment John as it was quite a walk!!!
thanks Mam - my legs were a bit sore the next day from the dash over the shingle to catch the last boat
A most enjoyable walk....Thank you.👍
Atmospheric walk thanks John
Thanks for watching Iain
I love Sebald. Really enjoyed this, a landscape so familiar to me. Haunting and so lonely when the light begins to fade.
Wow! What a fascinating place. Thanks John.
Thank you John nice xplore..
The masts you mention at a 11 minutes were actually part of the BBC World Service Medium Wave antenna system for 648 and 1296 khz.
Great video brings👍👍 back memories
The landscape is breathtaking. Those outbuildings and blockhouses resemble ancient ziggurats. An absorbing place. Great work, John.. 🇯🇪
Fascinating, thanks. Loved your Manningtree video as well. Please keep on walking round the East Anglian coast!
I read a children's historical fiction book about Orford castle when I was young. It's intriguing to see the real castle. Eerie landscape, fascinating.
This was a very interesting piece of history. The landscape reminded me more of The Netherlands. Was this area too early for the dam busters? Love your walks. Am mesmerized by them. Jane, Philadelphia
wonderful. Thank you. (I was wondering around The Island that day too! What a beautiful day it was... so glad its recorded here.)
I remember as a lad in my teens my friends and I landing on the Ness and being told by some guards to b'..... off. In those days there were giant mast like antennae sticking up at all sorts of angles. It was a very scary place.
I recently purchased ‘Most Secret: The Hidden History of Orford Ness’ by Heazell. Without your excellent video I would have been unable to imagine quite how desolate the land is there. It hopefully will give me excellent context for the book
I wonder if my mother was there at some point. She interpreted aerial photographs amongst other things. That place gives me the creeps.
As a former Officer of the Crown, employed by the Parliament and the Government of the Commonwealth of Australia, attached to the super secretive Australian Department of Defence, embedded into the Australian Military for 15 Years, I can assure you that those of Us who know Official Secrets take that Responsibility very seriously. If we’re weren’t that kind of person in the first place, we’d never have been Cleared to those levels of Secrecy in the first place.
Such a shingled shoreline, surely seldom seen...
Hi John A brilliant walk and interesting information from you. All your walks are excellent but did like this one very much and now have this one down for myself within the next couple of years. Mind you with all the open landscape and exposed you had very good weather, knowing my luck I probably have storms 😃
Thanks again John for this video 👍👌
Another great and interesting episode
Thanks Hiking Den
Beautiful and yes, a lost sci-fi world vibe at times.
Great sky scapes, the land bit leaves me a little flat
Cheers 🍻
10/10 ... no rivals at this level. Thanks John.
thanks Paul - very kind
Another very enjoyable stream John
I had no idea this place existed.
Makes you wonder what really went on here over the years
Strange what went on before WW1 at Orford Ness
If only we ever got to know what went on.
I bet there must be loads of secret files kept safe over the years
that would be an interesting read.
Look forward to seeing you on the next walk where ever that may be.
Stay safe John
Best wishes
Regards
Lee
👍🏻😁
Astonishing... beautiful & compelling film John
A quiz! Reminds me very much of where the book, “The Flint Anchor”, was initially conceived (Oh I love a trail of breadcrumbs!).
An outstanding documentary. Thank you John, and may we enjoy many more adventures together…
I visited Orford Ness around 2006 with the team I worked with at MoD Shoeburyness. Some of the buildings are very much like the test cells at The Environmental Test Centre (ETC - Shoeburyness) where I was based.
The radar array at Orford Ness reminds me of Radar Duga in the Ukraine, a few km away from Prypyat (Chernobyl) which I visited in 2019. They're differently shaped radars, but both fascinating places.
I'm looking to go back to both as soon as I can get a chance. I took hundreds of photos around Orford Ness but I trawled through every hard drive I've got and I can't find them.
Another interesting place, if you haven't visited it before, is The Secret Nuclear Bunker at Kelvedon Hatch.
Enjoying your videos. -Chris
Intriguing and enticing. Another hugely enjoyable walk John. Thanks as always for sharing the experience.
Fantastic Film John ,Cheers mate..
Cheers Ralph
Wow John what a wonderful video. It was of great interest to me for two reasons. My first job was with Kelvin Hughes who made navigation equipment and I was in the department making radar and echo Sounders for the royal navy. They had an underground bunker there where gyroscopic guidence systems were made for torpedoes. To work there you needed to sign the official secrets act. Secondly my uncle was stationed at R.A.F. Chigwell when I was younger in the 1960's. I still go there quite often although it is a country park now but there are still some signs of when it was an R.A.F. base. You can still see metal rings in the original road where the barrage balloons were secured. Bob.
Hello, I think my grandad was one of those sappers. He was an engineer paratrooper training when his whole unit was killed. Of the coast of England. He was only surviver they moved him to the Royal engineers and spent the was in Egypt. He said someone put live rounds in a gun instead of blanks. Probably signed the secrecy act. He stayed there after the war to work on what eventually became the centurion tank.
Awesome - loved that John! I will have to visit one day. I imagine some sci-fi films have been filmed there in the past? I would love to walk around another military "ness" - Shoeburyness, but that's still well off limits as you know :)
Very enjoyable thank you 🙏
Amazing video that gives a real sense of both the beauty and bleakness of the place. Need to get there next year when the ferry runs again. Thanks John
glad you enjoyed it Steve
Late to this video as it was not up loaded at the weekend.. I love your walking videos they are so good for my mental health. Im not going crazy for from it. Most of us could do with watching relaxing videos like your walks and then thinking about the beautiful parts of our country that are local to us. Places where we could walk.
Thank you for coming to my part of the world Suffolk. I don't live by the sea I live between Cambridge and Newmarket. Im on the EssexCambridgeshire border. I have family in Leigh on Sea and South Benfleet. I know a lot of places you walk in Essex. You where so right when you said this walk was going to be special. I like a bit of history too. Thank you John for taking us on this walk.
Have you ever been to *Dungeness* in kent? It is said to be Britain's only desert. Would make a good walking video.
*Dunwich* is near by Orford Ness it is famous for it's sunken village. On 1 January 1286, a storm surge reached the east edge of the town and destroyed its buildings. They say you hear the church bells still as they toll beneath the waves.
*The Lost Railway of Haverhill, Suffolk (My home town)* - czcams.com/video/R4VcRIrCfpI/video.html
*The lost city of Dunwich* - czcams.com/video/TVAA4WrrJ2s/video.html
Somewhere else you might like to visit one day. *Historic Lavenham* - czcams.com/video/hwzaBG3x-ro/video.html
A beautiful area, I really enjoyed your walk. It made me think of a movie, The Long Memory, with John Mills, filmed around Gravesend. The flat expanse and a big sky. I'd love to see it in person some day (from Boston, MA).