Noise/Binding When Turning? How to Diagnose & Fix
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- čas přidán 11. 08. 2020
- Does your 4 wheel drive car, truck, or Jeep bind when turning at slow speeds? Do you hear whining, grinding, moaning, and groaning when trying to maneuver around a parking lot? Sounds like you have a problem that this video can help with!
In this video we discuss how to diagnose drive line binding and noise when turning at slow speed in a full-time 4wd and traditional 4wd system.
The vehicles used for demonstration in this video are:
2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.7L with Quadra Drive
2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0L with SelecTrac
That said, this process and method will be the same for almost all 4x4 vehicles.
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We hope you enjoyed this video and will keep in mind that all information included is intended to be purely academic and in fact is only the opinion of D&E. We are not professionals, nor are we qualified to knight you a professional. D&E want to ensure that anyone modify or fixing their own vehicle does so in a safe manner which leaves the vehicle in a legal, roadworthy state. In short, DON'T BE A MONKEY WITH A TOOL BOX! If you don't know what you are doing, leave it the professionals! - Auta a dopravní prostředky
"While you're under here, take note of things leaking or broken, so you can later ignore them so you can afford a lift and bigger tires" 😆 my man
You earned the subscription, sir.
Having exactly that issue with my Hummer H3, and this helps me troubleshoot, and confirm what I suspected.
There different shops, and none could tell me possibilities.
Dude, I don't even drive a jeep anymore, found your video doing research for a friend. The way you talk to your jack had me giggling. I will definitely search you up for future repair stuff on her Jeep. Thank you!
@D&E i have a 02 wj with the selectrac and ive found if you’re in 2wd coming out of 4 and it grinds come to a stop and rock it from reverse to drive a couple times and that fixes it. it actually says in the owners manual you may need to rock it for the 4wd to engage or disengage
Love your malarky! Your skill and attitude have been instrumental in helping me build enough confidence to tackle my 2000 WJ V8 upgrades and repairs myself, I was in Pull-A -Part yesterday looking for a 242HD to make my Quadra Trac II to Select Trac II conversion, no luck and unfortunately nearest junkyard is an hour and half away, derp!) I've got a lift kit on the way (coils and shocks), a bunch of front end suspension and steering parts (I know, lifting will expose my gremlins, so i'm being prepared). Gonna tackle it all myself when the parts arrive!
Quadra Drive requires Mopar friction modifier added to 75 w 140 diff fluid, and some miles with turns of 8 to work it in to the clutch plates. I have used it in the rear diff on my 2001 4.0 with good results, however some time later noise has returned. Forums have mentioned that they need to use it along with a fluid with Friction Modifier added at Factory to sort the noise long term.
04 WJ 4.7.... quadradrive.... Now just yesterday I went through some sand and got stuck... My front tires didn't spin at all... My rear was spinning for awhile then only my rear passenger... I went from 4hi to 4lo and no change... Nothing spinning in the front... Thank a million!
I had an 02 Liberty 2wd and it was crazy how well it handled without any resistance from the front end. I know, i know, 2wd Jeep? What the hell?! At the time i just needed cheap wheels and something i could pit my wheelchair in the back and hobble up to the drivers seat. She treated me good and even handled upstate NY lake effect snow like a champ!
If she treated you well then that is all that matters!
"Work smarter not harder"...sounds like something for the fall 'hoodies. Great "chalk talk" down on my level of the mud, the blood, and the beer. Stay safe and keep on 'jeepn.
Haha... "chalk talk".. This comment is chock full of gold and I am all for it
Thank you so much for the video! I have a very similar situation. I'm hoping I can diagnose it as easy as this video makes it seem. I have a 2001 jeep grand cherokee. It has the same 4wd as in the video, the quadra-trac system.
Thank you for making your videos and sharing your knowledge 👍😁
Always Entertaining and keep up the good work and stay safe out there
Thanks bud!
I have a 99 Jeep Grand Cherokee Lerado 4x4. I bought brand new in 99 and have been everywhere, outside of normal wear and tear and routine maintenance & repairs it has been a go getter and very reliable. However this past winter I got stuck so I shifted into 4 low and once I was no longer stuck is when I noticed I couldn't get it out of 4 low and back to 2 WD. It eventually cleared after shifting into reverse and moving it a few feet. I have not used the 4x4 since then.
Just came across your channel! Love the content!
Thanks for the great video!
Watching this reminded me of when I blew up the Dana 35 in my old TJ and pulled the rear shaft put in in 4hi and had a 2wd fwd wrangler
I have never done this myself, but have heard of a few folks making it home this way. Gotta be a heck of feeling driving down the road in a front wheel drive solid front axle jeep
@@DEInTheGarage I had to drive it like that for about a month while waiting on a new gear set. Dana 30 on 33's daily driver, it was interesting for sure.
Love the Videos man
Thanks bud!
Good video...
I have a 95 Grand Cherokee Limited 5.2 V-8 Quadra-Trac.
Mine is fine around local but after driving about 45 minutes it starts bucking in sharp turns.
Thanks man super helpful 👍
I’m looking for a good 04 WJ overland. Thanks for the videos
I swapped out my NP247 to a NP242 last weekend in my 4.7. Stumbled across a HD in the salvage yard that wanted to come home with me. Easy swap!!!
The only difference between an NP242 and an NP242HD is the sprocket & chain width. When you find the HD that's the one to grab, may have to do some swapping of parts though to get the right output shafts LOL. But, in a Jeep you shouldn't have to worry about breaking an HD case well unless you try balancing the transfer case on a rock you come crashing down on.
Junk Yard Gold!
Hey Doug! Yeah one thing probably the only thing I can’t stand about my ram and the reason I’ll probably get a new one in the next couple years although I still need to verify they changed this is I only have real four-wheel-drive no part time or all wheel drive so it comes down to decision making in the weather on whether I want to be in full four-wheel-drive or not which really sucks when the road conditions are clear to ice pack to clear to ice pack on a road and being rear wheel drive hard ice pack can be so much fun!
Yea, that is a bummer. I have noticed the phased out 4wd options on a lot of new cars. very few will let you lock front and rear diffs together in a "part time" mode anymore. not cool
Thank you so much man, I have had this problem since I bought my 98 TJ, and could not find why the hell it was binding and popping every now and again. I swapped my NP231 out when I bought a newer one that had a SYE already installed for $300 but still has the same issue. Thanks to your video I think now it is the 4WD shift linkage (all rusted out) and I think it would engage to 4WD high periodically. I have the same issue with throttle response, popping, binding, and even getting a little Squirrley On the high way when I hit the gas or take my foot off the throttle. I did remove the front drive shaft and rebuilt it (because I initially thought it was the socket yoke assembly) and it ran much better but when I put the drive shaft back on, same issue. It pops and pulls to the left when I make a slight turn on the high way doing like 50mph. What are your thoughts ?
Same here. Did you ever fix it ?. What was it ?
@@southbay281 yes, I finally got to the bottom of it. It was the rear end, the previous owner put a limited slip differential in, and I guess it was worn out. Also, when I finally removed it there was a crap load of metal pieces in the rear end, like a bearing got hot and melted. I guess when the previous guy rebuilt it he didn’t remove all the pieces. Also, there were a couple of cracked teeth on the pinion (probably from the metal pieces getting wedged between the gears). I re-geared and threw in a ARB locker in and it’s great on the street, open diff on the road, and locked gears off road when needed, and most importantly no more popping and flying all over the road.
@@richjames5309 I only get the popping when the front diff goes out. Ive swapped 3 rear CV joints on the front shaft already. Seems the rubber seal always gives out and the bearings dry out. I'm sure due to cheap parts. About the diff. Ya I still get the binding noise on a slow hard turn.
I didn’t even start watching the video and automatically hit the like button because I know when you post it’s gold
yes, but then you miss all the other great opportunities to hit the like button.
i want to "like" every time he says something hilarious, but utube won't let you push the like button 20-30 times per video..
Possibly the nicest thing anyone has ever said to me. Thanks!! Glad you enjoy our work
Right I agree with you Both and it would be ALOT BETTER IF WE COULD LIKE Videos that We REALLY REALLY LIKE/LOVE More than once!!! Listen up CZcams A GREAT IDEA to give those that DESERVE TO GET The Attention and whatever Benefits that comes with being an AWESOME CZcamsR!!! Dang it amateur hour here thinking CZcams would listen...
Hey buddy keep up the videos 🇺🇸🇺🇸
Thanks bud!
Hey bud great video!! Question do you have a link or know of a website that I can get the shifting linkage for the 242 t case?
Hello I have a 2002 jeep grand Cherokee Laredo 4.7 and it’s doing exactly but yours was doing in the video when I try to take TAC corners it’s making this really bad noise and I was wondering if I would be able to take my transfer if I was able to take my actual how do I find out
@D&E I have a 06 Commander with a 245 transfer case. I’m having a similar issue, but wasn’t sure if it will work without the front driveshaft in place. Any ideas.
Hi there, was checking your video to figure out what’s the problem with my WJ with 247 vari-lok axles. I have grinding on the left back wheel when turning left on corners . Did change oil and put friction modifier but still grinds. From what I understand I cannot take the front drive shaft to perform the test with the 247? Regards and thanks
I just adopted an 04 Grand Cherokee 4.7 that doesn't seem to charge the battery . I'm leaning towards the PCM is there a way to check signal to field wires going from the PCM to the alternator ? And checked the fused link and it was good so any thoughts Doug ? I don't think I like the 247 transfer case but it seems good so far . 180K old man owned so it's never been off road .
Hi, I have a 2007 Grand Cherokee 3.0 CRD Overland WK (Quadra Drive 2) with the binding/digging in at low speed when turning and slight vibration through the steering wheel, it's not as noticeable when the car is warmed up just seems to be after the car has been sat for a while. Before any expensive repairs I'm going to change the front and rear diff fluid and also the transfer case fluid. I know both diffs require the friction modifier but can you tell me if I need to add the modifier to the transfer case ?
Thanks for any help/advice.
Thank you so much. Just bought a 2000 limited this weekend on 04/24/2021and it’s making this exact noise. Hopefully it’s just the transfer case.
Hi! how is it going? is hte sound just in tight turns or always?
Great vid Doug! For a minute I thought you were gonna drive us back to the Fatherland... Ahhhh shiza
Yea, not sure why I channeled Hogan's Heros on that one. haha
another good one man. Where’s Eric been?! And yes put me on the list for a d&e hat for sure 👍
Thanks bud! Eric has been hard at work behind the scenes making sure my recording and editing equipment is up-to-date and working. I am an idiot with new tech. He is also hard at work on some new t-shirt designs. He will be in our next video which is another u-pull vid
I drive a 2000 4.7 WJ. I drained the front diff and refilled with Lucas Oil 75w 140. It has quadradrive and varilocs and I figured it should be fine without the additive “friction modifier” as it says on the bottle its great for LSDs. Ran great for a week or two, just got an alignment done on Monday and now its snapping/popping in the front diff/axles again 😬- Im thinking friction modifier will be a big help, multiple Jeepers claim you CANNOT go without the friction modifier the varilocs are very finicky- any thoughts ?
I have a 2002 jeep liberty I recently pulled a friend's small camper with it is a manual shift 2wheel 4 wheel high an 4 low anyway after I pulled the camper I stop the vehicle shifted back to 2 wheel drive an as I was dri ING it later it started a loud grind but not a continues one like it was making a rep and grinding . So I've been driving it In four high but my gas mileage blows so you know if I can remove my front drive shift as well
Excellent.
What if you have noise only turning left light grinding sound . Will pulling front drive shaft out help that issue ??? 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 .any idea would be great .
Steeler Fan? Awesome!
Most likely the transfer case ismt going out, a needing a fluid change will engage the gerator pump of the tcase. Front, rear, and tcase all have gerator pumps. Fluids and the proper additives are needed or it will for sure cause binding, even a tcase needing services will cause the symptoms ur describing. Do a full fluid swap on your entire system and get the diff additives back in it and I bet she goes back to like butter. Myself and martinbuilt both had this issue on wj's
I have the problem when turning like you described in my 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee quad drive. But I also have an issue since I bought it with when I'm driving down the road and I hit a speed bump or a hole in the road it sounds like it's hitting metal to metal loud bang and sounds like it's a shock but I put new shocks on it and it's happening on the driver side. And after thinking I got a bad shock we exchange that shock three different times and it still did it so what could be wrong I've taken it to four mechanics no one can figure it out
I had a Toyota truck a few years back that kept blowing out transfer cases finally I just remedied the situation by getting rid of the Jeep after the tenth transfer case in 2 years
10???? damn dude... that is nuts!
@D&E what do u know about ausie lockers? Front or rear better? Thank you bud
I have 247 and previous owner took the drive shaft off and my transfer case is leaking so part of me wants to do switch to 242 but is there a way to test the transfer case before replacing everything?
hi I have a 3.0LTR 2014 RRS, only When turning right there's a noise coming from the rear, 50,000 mile .. could it need a oil change on the rear diff, and should i do the front also.. i done the transmission oil 6 months ago.
only in the morning and only turning right... after that the noise goes.
thanks once spring hits i will try this
My FWD 4 cylinder van got stuck in deep sand last month. Trying to get out it made some nasty popping noises. A few weeks later I noticed it makes a single popping noise now sometimes reversing or driving out when parked for a while. it does not make the noise when the van has been driving for a while. What's the best way to diagnose this?
My XJ won’t go into 4WD on the fly, it’s a 231, I changed the fluid and it came out clean. I can only get it into 4WD in N and only into 4L
I’ve also checked the linkage and that seamed fine, it went into each position but the 4H just didn’t engage. Would pulling the driver shaft tell me anything?
Maybe it just time for another 231
Yeah , the full time grand Cherokee t/c with rzeppa front axles and anti lock brakes are annoying ( and expensive to fix ) when components start wearing . Like D hits the wrecking yards for spare parts , you just got to have them ready when disaster strikes . Great system though .
Yeah , just looking at that brake line makes you happy you got up that morning . Hey , it's a nice truck though . New Jersey winters are merciless . Not wishing the surface rust clean up but jeep work is good work .
I hear you bud. We are going on a 1000 mile road trip with the Jeep next week, so I am probably going to replace that brake line this weekend
So I have a 2005 Laredo that had the same issue and they simply disconnected the 4wd and voila problem solved. I hope I am not doing or did not do any kinda damage to anything as a result . Because as we speak, days later while driving I heard a grinding noise from the transmission and not been able to move the car since . The loud grinding noise always comes once I put it into either drive or reverse . Now I’m totally clueless what the issue is
Hey Doug! I'd like to add something to your video for the non-stock jeepers that I've learned first hand (props to the ComancheClub members that helped me figure it out) that can be confused with binding... I converted to a 242, from a 231. Still have a stock Dana 30 front diff with u-joint axles. I tried full time 4wd and had very noticeable lurch/bind in tight cornering. Turns out it's normal for u-joint axles, they do that by design. I'll have to switch to CV axles to solve this.The u-joint doesn't turn at a constant speed when it gets at too much of an angle, which gives that lurch.
I found this out as well. My 96 ZJ had quadra-trac full time 4WD, and had front CV axles. My 98 ZJ has selec-trac 4WD but has U-Joints in the front axle....I'm thinking of seeing if I can get CV axles and put in it to smooth out the turning issues....my 98 ZJ also has the rear limited slip differential which also plays a bit of a role in the binding in full time I think as well.
That is a very good point and worth noting. I will add this to a future video. Thanks!
Hello. I'm looking into getting a 99' WJ 4.0 with the dura trac 2. The owner says everything is solid except when he engages 4wd (I'm assuming low range since it's full time 4wd I believe) and the front driver's side wheel clicks for a few seconds then goes into it's respective mode. Is that a red flag?
Hey Doug, one commenter mentioned a metal to metal slamming sound in her post, I too are having this happen when i hit a dip or speed bump at speed as she mentioned. No reply was given. So please could you respond as she said she replaced shocks and it still slammed, and i was about to do the same until I read her question. I also have that front popping binding sound when going from 4w to 2w.. when turning left. I have a 2000 GJ wj 4.0 select track . Any help is greatly appreciated👍 Thanks Buddy 😊
Got a 99 wj 4.7 auto full-time no 1st or 4 the gear any hints??
My dad has a 2004 Jeep grand Cherokee, 4.0L 6cylinder, 247 J transfer case, Quadra track 2. Makes a horrible banging popping noise when turning slow in parking lots and even sometimes in slippery conditions going straight, as if the front wheels are trying to get more power. I had him turn slow in a dry parking lot and I tried to see where the noise was coming from and I think it’s coming from the front drive shaft where it connects to the transfer case. His front drive shaft only has U-joints where it connects to his front differential, the end of the front driveshaft that connects to his transfer case doesn’t have u-joints it has a bigger round piece that goes into the transfer case. Any information on what that round part that goes into the transfer case would be appreciated:) is it possible to swap that style of driveshaft out for one with u-joints on both ends? Any suggestions/tips/information/links/videos would be appreciated! You’re awesome man!!
I have 2- 249 j and I have drove many miles without the front drive shaft. I have the same problem as you. I have a huge lift at least 4 inches of lift and I have over 10 degrees of angle on the front drive shaft. When I turn sharp it binds up and when I go to 34 to 45 mph it gets loader and then when I let up on the accelerator I get even more. Noise until I drive off the road to the dirt then I don't hear anything like the other noises . Can you please help me
Would you be able to go highway speeds with the front drive shaft removed? I know this is a dumb question BUT🤔
Mine has a slight groaning or shudder when turning right at slow speeds, and when the vehicle is cold. You can feel it in the steering wheel as well. It’s a WJ Overland with quadradrive. Anybody know what it might be? Steering gear maybe?
My Jeep is a 1999 it only has 4hi and 4 low
Thank You...
Hey Doug, I have a 02 WJ Laredo 4.7 (VIN-N) that has the front driveshaft removed by a mechanic the previous owner payed $80.
The mechanic told her that fixing the problem would cost $650 but removing the front driveshaft was only $80.
She told me that the Jeep would get stuck in 4WD
What is wrong with my Jeep and how much will it cost for ne to fix it? I really want 4WD but have the ability to easily change from FT4WD and 2WD
I'm 76 and in need of HELP! I recently purchased a 93 Grand Cherokee 5.2 (108K miles) with the 249 J transfer case. I have the binding in slow turn thing. My 94 GC 5.2 (293K miles) with the 249 J doesn't do this. I'm retiring the 94 and expect the 93 to be my LAST EVER vehicle. Is my problem in the cv assembly? Or something else? PLEASE!
I actually noticed this happening to my jeep wj this morning. Put it from full to 2wd and heard some grinding when pulling out of my driveway. Thought I was going crazy or something
Not crazy... just a Jeep thing
i had a clunk and grinding noise from the front recently. My mechanic disconnected the first driveshaft and it went away. i never use the selec trac so i dont think the transfer case is worn out i have a 242 transfer. could it be a malfunction with the transfer case switch?? how many sensors or switchesare on the 242np. i have a 2004 grand cherokee laredo with trail ready badges 155k on the clock. 4 1/2 inch lift with 265/70/17 tires. please help!!!! thanks in advance. btw when i select it into full time 4 x drive theres no light indicator on dash when i select other like 4 part time i can see the indicator light on dash is that normal?. i think it worked fine in full time 4x. i only notice the problem in full time 2 wh dr after driving for about 30min. what could it be??
The 242 in my 98 ZJ gets hung up in part time mode all the time, pretty much anytime I use it, it'll get hung up in part time going into full time or going back to 2WD. Other than that I love the 242. I think part of the issue with mine is I don't think the previous owner ever used the 4WD, or if they did, they didn't do so very often, it was a pain to get into part time when I first got it, the lever was pretty hard to pull. Its easier now, but as hard as the lever was to move out of 2WD it leads me to believe the 4WD was rarely if ever used in its 149k miles before I got it. Even now I don't use it very often. I did have it in full time for a couple days a while back just to exercise the system but I can't see where it really made any difference. So now with 162k on it, it has high mileage on the drive train except the transfer case and front differential LOL. The fluids in both are extremely clean, the rear diff when I got it looked like it had never received a drain/fill plus it has the limited slip rear differential...nice sometimes but man you gotta be careful otherwise you'll be going sideways or doing donuts real quick LOL.
I will never understand why "part time" is between "full time" and "2wd"... you are just begging to get stuck!
Can someone please explain when I should use part time on my selec trac? I never got a good answer.
I have a 99 WJ 4.0 with selec trac front drive lines been out since I got it from the last owner and now randomly today I went to turn left and the moment my wheel moved it made a weird sound and there was some sort of tension in the steering wheel I’ve never taken it out of 2wd i haven’t installed the drive line either still waiting on a new tcase
Really confused on what it could be
Have a WJ with a select Trac drives great in two wheel in any 4 slot feels like the truck is breaking apart. Even going straight.
Awesome vid. I have a 2000 grand Cherokee 4.7 quadra Trac. My from driveshaft rear CV keeps going out. Not sure if it's a cheap Amazon part or something else. I removed the front shaft. After removal I am still getting that binding sound.
you have to replace the cv join by a double Cardan type join. The sound you are hearing could be from the rear driveshaft, it has two u-joints that may need to be replaced
@@jesusrperezd the binding sounds and feels like it's coming from the rear diff. I do have two u joints for the rear shaft I. Going to be putting in. Also!!. I don't know if my front drive line needs to be balanced or installed a certain way. I'm getting a slight vibration at about 55-60mph. The rear shaft has zero play and feels really tight but I'm sure they have never been changed in 225,000 miles
2005 Jeep Cherokee Limited 5.7 AWD Quadra Drive 2 binding when turning and clicking noise. Feels like the Jeep is struggling to drive; torque. Anyone have a idea of what it could be? Removed the front drive shaft and it drove fine but could only drive below 35mph because it was in 4Low. That’s the only way it would move. So had the drive shaft replaced which was a cv axle attached to transfer case on one end ujoints on the front part attached to differential. Drive fine for a few weeks then back to same issue. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Hi from South Africa. What can be wrong in the transfer case? Mine does the same. I lost a transfer a few months ago due to chain going out. I bought a second hand transfer case since then the wheels started binding. I have a rebuilt kit and the old transfer case viscous coupler and the oil pump. That was the only two things that i could safe from the old transfer case. It is the 247 transfer case. But i will test it with out front shaft. Ps how long can i drive without the front shaft? Can it be the shift fork? I dont have a clip on.
Most likely the same issue LOL, that's why so many ZJ's and WJ's end up in the scrap yards because the transfer case Viscous coupler or clutch pack fails, I think the 247's have a clutch pack in them instead of a viscous coupler...but usually when the 247's fail they fail where you have no 4WD at all, unlike the 249's where when the viscous coupler fails you just about have a part time 4WD system because of all the binding the locked viscous coupler causes, which is what happened with my 96 ZJ's quadra-trac system at 232,000 miles. It was a great 4WD system but the viscous coupler was the weak link. But couldn't complain it gave me 230K+ trouble free miles and many were offroad miles LOL.
I have a 1994 jeep grand Cherokee with 4 wheel all time I put new axles in the front all is good till u go to turn it feels like it is hopping and popping then I have some days were it don’t do it at all . Check the whole front don’t see anything bad . My dad says it is because it is 4 wheel all time I say no it isn’t rite . Please help
I have the same exact WJ 4.7L v8 with 185k and I'm having that binding on the left rear wheel I've determined. Just did the wheel bearing today (without a press💪) as well as the rear calipers, pads, rotors and soft lines. And just like yours I direly need to replace my rear brake hard line haha. Did the master cylinder and vaccum booster last weekend on my time off. I'm tired of these god forsaken vibrations and ready to get it figured out since Its my work vehicle and i have to trailer a boat 5 days a week for work. The mystery vibration quirk of the 01 WJ limited is bullshit
Killin it! These are great Jeeps as long as we take care of them
@@DEInTheGarage I do love it to death and finally figured out the mystery vibrations at low speeds and full lock. All it needed was more limited slip additive. Going to be doing the radiator and electric fan conversion next week. Thanks for the awesome content to guide me through some of the issues, you make troubleshooting twice as easy. Proper maintenance is key!! That's why I still have an 01 wrangler with 389k with stock tranny, transfer case, engine and axles
I had a binding issue on my 04 overland. The limited slip discs were shot. I used 2 bottles of MOPAR limited slip additive and drove it 2 hours to a friends house and issue gone. I have a feeling this is a bandaid and will be replacing the clutches
I've heard of people just swapping the internals out for standard open diff carriers and doing away with the limited slip function to save money I guess....if it has limited slip I think I'd like to keep it myself though LOL. My 98 ZJ has the limited slip rear axle, gotta be careful in snow/ice with it but once you get used to it, the limited slip is very nice to have, I don't need it but that's how the previous owner ordered it new...dang thing is fully loaded, its a Laredo, but has all the limited options except the sun-roof which is great those things leak and stop working anyways.
Interesting... maybe I should try a fluid flush and see if I can get a few more miles out of it
My son has a 98xj, with a 231. It developed a leak, & was run for awhile low. topped it off, & still having the same groaning especially when cranking the wheels. How expensive, & complicated are the 231 to rebuild, & any rebuild kits you recommend?
My first recommendation would be to find a junk yard and get a used one to slip in. It is going to (likely, depending what is broken) be the same price as buying rebuild parts. They are not hard to rebuild. Here is a video I have on swapping them. It does not cover rebuilding directly, but if you watch the second half it should give you an idea of what they are like inside. very simple
czcams.com/video/bfVHWCqZcbA/video.html
Cool! So I was test driving a truck and it would groan while turning in 4wd. That sound would continue after switching back into 2wd, for the next turn only, and then go away. So probably a transfer case issue? Thanks for the video, nice to see the sidewalk chalk diagram.
Haha, thanks. Yes it sounds like the 4wheel part time is staying engaged a little too long. Could chew up tires or worse over time
6:01
"Kind of stuff that you can take note of. . . . Make a list . . . . . and then promptly ignore so you can afford a lift and bigger tires."
Precisely what I'm doing ! !
I’m in the same boat. Viscous coupler in my early 249 is shot
The 249 VC in my 96 ZJ lasted 232,000 miles LOL...I was surprised considering the frequency that it was offroad....it was covered in mud much more often than it was ever clean. I was surprised how well the 4WD system did given it had open differentials and only ran all terrain tires on it.
I have an 02 quadra trac in my Jeep making the binding noise in tight turns. I'm wondering if I can swap it out with my 2000 select trac. Probably not without changing my console. Good info. I subscribed.
You definitely can swap it. I have a video on transfer case swaps if you are interested..
czcams.com/video/bfVHWCqZcbA/video.html
Hi what did you do to solve that? are you sure that sound come from the transfer case?, I ask you since it is just in tight turns, I was thinking the sound may be always present if the transfer case fail.. Did you check cv joints and U-joints in your driveshaft?
The chalk won the like for me 😂
Doug i got a 99 jeep grand cherokee limited 4.0. I got the quadra trac II.I have the 247transfercase. Also I got a dana 30 in front and a dana 35c in rear. What I'm asking is do I need to add the friction modifier to my diffrentials. Or are they all open not limited slip? Your help would be great going to knock gearlube fluid out tomorrow. Love the videos👍👍👍
I am almost sure both are open diff so you don't need the friction modifier. An easy way to know is to get the datasheet (online) with the VIN number, if in the sheet is indicated "Varilok"then you need the additive.
If u have varilok do u need friction modifier in the front and rear? @jesusrperezd
That's a pretty cool shirt.... I wonder where you got it?????
The dogs can always go find help whenever something goes wrong thats really why you have them with you dougie fresh 😁how you been brother
Hey buddy! Been a while! We are ok up here. HBU?
My nephew has a 2016 gc. Bucking and banging like crazy,changed transfercase oil atf+4 cured. Tc oil is supposed to be changed every 30,000kms, it had 230,000kms
Wow... gotta love that!
Hi bud, awesome video. My wife has a 247, I removed the front drive shaft. When I do the test drive, which gear position should it be in?
Regards
Edgar
do you have quadratrac II?
How do you test with the 242hd? I’m about to hack and tap mine and install it
If your 242HD is binding, likely you are in Part Time when you think you are in Full Time. If you have to, go under it and circumvent the linkage and try to shift it directly at the level on the TC. if it is still binding it might have something mechanistically wrong inside the case
Can you put a varilok Dana 44a in a Jeep WJ inline 6 with select trac? Can’t find any info saying this can or can’t be done
The whole rear axle you mean? Sure you could. The Varilock is a mechanical limited slip that’s wholly contained inside the axle housing so it doesn’t care what transfer case is in the Jeep. Would be a nice upgrade for a Jeep with an open rear differential, well as long as it’s working right… make sure you use the right fluid (75w140 synthetic) and Mopar friction modifier.
@@TireSlayer55 yes, the whole rear Dana 44a. I appreciate the answer, it seemed like it would be an upgrade to an open diff that everyone would use cheaply, but I figured something prevented people from doing it, I guess it’s just cost or was at least. I probably will try it in future my rear is going out shortly
Another good one Douglas.Is that Edelbrock intake going on the 318?
Dang Dan... nothing gets by you! That is correct. I am slowly collecting the parts I need for the carb swap. It is not a cheap build, but by the winter I should have everything to get to work.
i have a 98 tahoe and we took it to the beach once and when i turned it’ll make a clank noise but it drove fine, i’m spooked
Hmmm... check your torsion bar mounts. I know they go out on those trucks and will clunk, but drive fine
Also off-topic when you get around to the junkyard videos again which I absolutely love can you show Dodge Rams if they have any there?
There are always a few dozen of them at the pick a part yards I go to. I found an extremely rare 99 Dodge Dakota a few months ago at one of the yards....I wish I could have brought it home...body was in great shape, so was the interior...so I'm guessing the engine or transmission failed. Anyhow it had the 5.9L 360 V8 in it with the NP242HD transfer case....and no that wasn't a swap, it was a factory option, and the VIN confirmed it. Its the only one I've ever seen in person with Selec-Trac, I've heard that it existed but up till then never seen it. I find Durangos all the time with the NP242HD's in them too.
Just recorded on last weekend, but I am going again next weekend! Dodge Rams will be on the list... though there aren't a ton. mostly 2nd gens and Dakotas
I was experiencing this in my 2005 Nissan Xterra and without googling this issue or anything this video popped up in my feed. Google/youtube can read minds or something.
A little advice Doug, when I put my select trac in 4WD the front drive shaft is grinding. Not very loud but noticeable. Is it the shaft itself or is my front differential making that noise 🤔.... thanks
Might want to check the rzeppa joins on the front drive shaft. they go back and do all kind of crazy thing
@@DEInTheGarage changed front drive shaft all together, much better now. Thanks again man
@@fredwilliams4373 Hi Fred, the noise was when going straight or turning? how is it now?
@@jesusrperezd I figured it out, it was the rzeppa joint.... its fixed now but I'll upgrade to a double cardan soon. Rzeppa style doesn't like lifts of any sort
My selectrac seems to shift into part time on it's own sometimes when offroad. No big deal
I guess not as long as you are off road.. I like the 242 (probably favorite t-case), but they certainly can be touchy
I have a question I'm hoping you can answer for me. I have a wj quadra drive. When taking tight turns it feels like the rear diff is locked. Sort of like it's resisting the turn. Obviously it seems like the rear diff is problem. Two other things have become a problem that I wanted to know if they would have any effect. 1) The abs light has come up, the brakes actually are working better than before the light came on and before the light came up if felt like the abs was kicking in all the time under normal braking in good weather. I've assumed it's a electrical issue rather than the pump itself, sensor or module. 2) I recently noticed who ever last changed the transmission fluid has massively over filled it. It's well above the cold line when it's well warmed up. Is it possible that a dodgy abs system could make the car think it's losing traction when it isn't causing the diff to try and lock when it isn't needed? Is it possible the likely increased pressure in the transfer case could make it engage when it isn't needed? Should I just accept the rear diff is probably fried?
I forgot to also mention the gear change is odd. It holds first and sometimes second longer than it should and then lumps into gear from 1st to 2nd. This is massively improved when everything is warmed up. It's also really quick to jump down a gear even under gentle acceleration. I bought the car for very little. Its a 3.1td with only 77k on the clock. Inside and out the vehicle is immaculate so even if it turned out to be every diff and the transfer case I could seel the it in parts for more than I bought it for but Its already really grown on me despite its issues and I'd like to save it if I can.
Doug, my wife says when she puts 99WJ w 242 WJ transfer case in 4PT and Selec-Trac, it feels like something is going to break whenever she just turns the steering wheel w/o moving( in driveway )not to mention while moving, and that it was stuck in 4PT. I jumped in but was able to shift it back to normal immediately so I never felt the issue. Is that pretty much what you were describing in this video...or did you mean specifically when turning on the road?
Doug, Sorry- I rewatched the video and you already answered my question! Good stuff. BTW, I'm naturally a GM guy( all my vehicles), but my wife has always had WJ's and I've been the one who worked on them...so I've really grown to love WJ's...I know so much about them now!
You have a smart wife! haha. Just to clarify, 4PT is for offroad and loose surfaces only. She want to be in 4FT for on-road use. Hope all is well!
Well thats where me and the wife went wrong i guess. We ALWAYS only use 4PT.. Now I have to convince her that shes wrong and she needs to start using 4FT.
I am currently trying to do this. And I can't get any of the bolts lose. I've tried every trick I can think of and I. Ant get them. I striped a few too. What do I do?
I just removed 1 from the junkyard today. I used a 5/16 12point 1/4 in drive ratchet and little breaker bar for leverage .
Ive been driving SUVs my whole life and never had this problem. I jus bought an F-150 and have this problem. How can I jus drive my truck in 4WD like my old SUVs?
FYI: ZJ ´93-95 249 TC without front drive shaft will burn up the visco inside of it if. Also the Jeep can roll in Park. Its all fixed in the ´96-98 249 TC
That’s my situation right now 😂
Same thing will happen in the 96-98 249's as well if you pull that front drive shaft. The only thing different with the 96-98 249's is the Viscous Coupler only applied in full time, and they added a mechanical low range....the older 93-95 249's the viscous coupler was the connection in low range as well, so you never really had locked low range it was still limited slip through the viscous coupler.
I should have mentioned that. Thanks!
I have the same make model and year Jeep with the exact same issue. Im just a little confused. If I pull off the front drive shaft and the noise goes away what do I need to look at fixing from there?
Any update to your issue ? I added extra friction modifier but haven't noticed a difference yet
@@scalywag Any news about your issue? is the noise always or just when you take tight turns?
When you pulled the drive shaft did you keep the lever in neutral?
Yes, so I can spin it and access all bolts. Wheels need to be chocked so the jeep doesn’t run off on ya
Can the Quadra-Trac II use 2WD?
I only saw the option of 4WD Hi, N, and 4WD Low
Its full time 4wd.
4HI means 2wd (rear traction) in normal conditions, when the transfer case detects front wheels are in different speed / lost of traction, it automatically sends power to front drive.