People keep asking me about my keyboard (Lily58 Pro) | A guide to custom mechanical keyboards
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- čas přidán 4. 09. 2024
- I use a custom open-source ortholinear mechanical keyboard called the Lily 58 Pro that I built myself. This is a starters guide into the world of custom mechanical keyboards. I discuss how to go about choosing a custom keyboard firmware, using a PCB manufacturer to print PCBs, configuring your custom firmware, and some special features that I have setup on my keyboard.
Lily58 GitHub Page: github.com/kat...
Here is my hardware configuration excluding non-custom parts:
- Key switches: Kailh Low Profile Choc Pink. (These are extremely light and I do not recommend them if this is a new layout for you. While learning to type of this keyboard I used Sunset Tactile Choc Switches from lowprokb. These have stiffer springs making it easier to learn to type. However, now that I am used to typing on this keyboard, I prefer a light switch).
- Key caps: Clear key caps compatible with Kalih Choc switches. Thumb keys use pink key caps (to match the pink switch aesthetic).
- Board: Two Nice!Nano V2 for each side of the split keyboard, each with a 110mAh battery.
Switches don not have any mods. I don't have any screens or RGB (for increased battery capacity).
🤳🏼 Follow me on Social: alfredo.lol/so...
✉️ For business inquiries/collabs: alfredosequeida01@gmail.com
My ZMK config: github.com/AlfredoSequeida/zmk-config
where did you get the non-custom parts?
@@alonsogutierrez1601 What parts are you referring to?
I'm a hover typer and beginning to think I need a grid keyboard like the ID75 rather than a lily58 or sofle, plus I do a lot of gaming. Great the lily works for you though!
Thanks for commenting, I haven't heard of the ID75 before. Reminds me of a larger Planck.
@@AlfredoSequeida Yeah I like the ones with a number row too so it kinda won me over the planck, nice video btw liked 👍
0:51 Ha, opposite issue for me. My hands are too big and my fingers are too long so I have trouble hitting things on the lower side, like Ctrl, easily while staying on home row. Even Shift is awkward for me to pinky. Backspace and such is extremely easy for me to hit. But I'm a home row typist, have been for a very long time, I'm used to it.
Its great to hear others have different experiences. I guess a one size fits all solution is not the way to go for keyboards. Good thing we have lots of options!
Hey your videos a brilliant and entertaining. Subbed! 🙂
Thanks!
Were you from csulb? I think we’ve been in s CS class before. Best of luck my dude
I was! Thank you, best of luck to you as well!
@@AlfredoSequeida best of luck (from black cat/chocolab)
Can you share your ZMK config? I'm curious how you did it. It seems the ZMK docs doesn't officially handle mouse movements yet.
I knew I forgot to mention something. So the mouse feature in ZMK is still work in progress. But you can use the work in progress fork that gives you the mouse feature. Even though it's work in progress, it works great. I have made my config public so you can see how I did it: github.com/AlfredoSequeida/zmk-config. Check out `config/west.yml` in my repo. That file contains the remote repo that contains mouse integration ( github.com/ftc/zmk ).
Interesting stuff, how much does it all cost. Wanted a reasom to get a souldering iron and this might be it
Awesome question, I definitely should have mentioned that. I don't recall exactly how much I spent on all the parts (I already had soldering equipment). But I think It was between $150- $200 USD for all of the parts. It's definitely not the cheapest hobby / keyboard. But I will say the most expensive part is the board (in my case the nice!nano). So if you already have a board compatible with the firmware you want to use, you could save yourself some money there. Also, if you buy the parts to make the board reusable (EZ-Solder Machine Sockets and Headers OR MILL-MAX Machine Sockets and Pins) you can re-use that board for future builds making future builds cheaper.
@@AlfredoSequeida ah thank you
Thanks for the vid. How did you upload the board to JLCPCB? It doesn't seem to read properly the files from the Lily58 GH page.
I knew I missed something. I used a free open source program called kicad (www.kicad.org/). Open the .pro (short for project) file in kicad and the export Gerber and Drill files for the PCB. From what I recall, this will give you an archive file (.zip or similar file type). You can upload that file to JLCPCP, or any other PCB manufacturer.
I used this guide from JLCPCB the first time I did this: jlcpcb.com/help/article/362-how-to-generate-gerber-and-drill-files-in-kicad-7
@@AlfredoSequeida did you change anyting on the detected stuff? when uploading to the service, it says it detected 1 layer. Is that ok? I feel this is a 2 layer thing, top and bottom, unless I am not understanding it properly