Bike Tire Size Explained | Choose the right size! | Fat Bike
Vložit
- čas přidán 7. 05. 2021
- Using a variety of wheel/tire combos, explaining in depth general concepts of how wheel and tire size impact performance. Going into detail to compare and contrast major differences in wheel size, and tire size. Explaining the impacts of width in the height and contact patch of a tire, and giving details to be aware of to maintain your bikes bottom bracket height and ride characteristics if you want to run different size tires.
Instagram: elevationeveryweekend
Facebook: Elevation Every Weekend
My Brother’s Instagram: dirteveryweekend
Marnie: marnie_doodle
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. These links do not cost you any additional money, but really help support the channel.
BIKE GEAR:
ESI Grips: amzn.to/3s7xA91
Race Face Chester Pedals: amzn.to/3lGdctl
Bike Bell: amzn.to/2QplxpP
Frame Protection Tape : amzn.to/3tFXtNC
Olight RN 1500 (front): amzn.to/3d6Tq6D
Olight SeeMee 30 (rear): amzn.to/3r87Tnw
Headlamp: amzn.to/3lC1ShZ
Rock N Roll Gold Chain Lube: amzn.to/3cTvYcG
Stans Notubes sealant: amzn.to/3vMHYFJ
BomberStrap: amzn.to/390IAO7
Fatbike Fork Mount: amzn.to/3tHA3HY
Water Bottle: amzn.to/3lA6Ag6
Mountainsmith Tour Pack: amzn.to/2OWzyeb
Torque Wrench (0-20nM for bikes): amzn.to/3tMmlE6
Park Tool Chain Cleaning Kit: amzn.to/3sdBwoR
First Aid Kit: amzn.to/3fgs1lc amzn.to/3frTSz9
Nalgene First Aid Kit: amzn.to/3tVvXvO
TECH:
Garmin Instinct: amzn.to/390AkxA
Apple Watch Series 6: amzn.to/39hLgHt
Powerbeats Pro headphones: amzn.to/2Pg0TrK
TACOMA:
X-Bull Traction Boards: amzn.to/3r8kHdA
K&N Air Filter: amzn.to/313iBBl
K&N Air Filter kit: amzn.to/3c9grpZ
Tacoma Tailgate Insert Emblem: amzn.to/313vNWV
Fisker Axe: amzn.to/2OOS3Bq
Thule Rack: amzn.to/3tKFoOq
Tepui RTT: amzn.to/3vNbET5
Dude wipes/shower: amzn.to/2OXRi8T amzn.to/2NG0Ogl
Mountain House Meal: amzn.to/3sb8KoJ
FILMING:
iPhone 12 Pro Max: amzn.to/2Qqzwvy
Apple Silicone Case: amzn.to/3lCLdee
Spigen screen protector: amzn.to/313i16G
GoPro: amzn.to/3eYAM37
Chest Mount Harness: amzn.to/3c6eQ48
Lapel Mic: amzn.to/3tCU4PI - Sport
Here is a playlist of all of my fatbike content!
czcams.com/play/PLZrEXKDmvWZV7xKrbDOHZPEvDTBfuewsh.html
Your Content is always teaching . Great point about how the the wider tire adds height. I was not aware of that. Thank you and keep the info coming. I look forward to it .
Thanks for watching!!
Thanks for the insight on wider tires work better because they are taller and therefore a longer contact patch. Which is what provides more traction and flotation than the width.
Thanks for watching!!
Fantastic video! Thank you so much, I've been looking for a comparison review.
Thanks for watching!! Might have a follow up on wheel width coming soon!
Great video. Currently riding 26 x 4.8, would love to try 26 x 5.0. Volume is key to suspension and traction on fully rigid fat bikes. Contact patch equals traction and grip in all directions.
26x4.8 is a great combo, not always the fastest or most nimble, but it rolls through everything and has that fun factor that makes a fat bike a fatbike! Thanks for watching!!
Great info! Thx for the side by side comparison!
Thanks for taking the time to watch!!
Nice overview! Well laid out and explained!!
Thanks for watching as always!!
Good video. I've seen other videos with similar information and one aspect that is not often talked about is tire profile and how rim width affects tire profile. In general the rule of thumb is the wider the tire the wider the rim. For fat bikes the standard rim width seems to be 80mm with tire width ranging from about 3.8 to 5 inches. In my opinion (formed over six seasons of fat biking in MN) one should use the biggest tire you can and the reason why is because as the tire gets smaller the profile becomes more square and henceforth not only is there a loss of overall capability but the range or window of air pressure becomes smaller. For example if you are using a 3.8 on an 80mm you have to really get the pressure dialed otherwise handling, speed and overall capability is greatly diminished. I once mounted a set of Jumbo Jims on my 80mm Mul Futs and while they were lighter and faster than the Minions 26x4.8 I had mounted prior, I had to keep the pressure up on them, to the point where they just weren't capable in the snow. Dropping pressure to a reasonable point made the bike handle poorly, especially the steering. Back on went the Minions. I did however mount the JJ's on a set of 50mm rims and they were aweome summer trail tires. I also think this effect is more pronounced on 27.5 wheels because of the lack of sidewall. (I prefer 26" wheels).
When you use a bigger tire you get a more rounded profile. I've taken this to the extreme by mounting a set of Terrene Johnny 5 26x5 studded tires on a set of wheels I built with 50mm Rabbit Hole rims. My plan was to have a studded set and non (my Mul Futs with Minions) but this is such a good set up I won't go back. The profile is super round making the bike feel really agile, lively and fast with lots of pressure range before these things go out the door. Also with the more pronounced center and with my stud placement (two rows just off center I can really dial in how much contact I want them to make and they don't make as much noise on the road. So not only do you have more range and adjustability but you will have a much better bike and riding experience!
If you want to see my setup you can check it out on my IG @racerx8410712 Scroll down to the bottom, you'll see a full carbon with a Lauf fork. Take a look at my drivetrain as well in the first pic. I run a 10 speed 11-36 cassette and 26t front and I explain why.
Agreed, so many variables are in play. Originally I had segments on rim width, but the video was getting out of hand, and frankly since most people are on 80mm rims I cut all that out, but yes rim width is another variable for sure. And yes tires themselves vary especially with actual volume and side wall thickness, which can really influence things at lower psi. It’s why when someone asks me “what tire pressure do you run” I think it pretty pointless, because there are so many component, rider, and environmental variables that go into that number, it’s likely irrelevant for anyone else. Thanks for watching and adding your input!!
You were just speaking directly to me! This is exactly what I've been struggling to solve for the last two years!
@@kennyburd9199 That's great! What exactly have you been dealing with?
I thought about getting some 29er plus tires for the summer. We'll see how things go on the 26x4in tires this summer, but maybe that will be my next fat bike upgrade.
I think they would be really fun on the Wed. Tough to get parts these days but there are some complete wheel options out there!
Helps a lot to see actual examples ! Great ! Thanks for posting.
Thanks for watching!!
Nice review. I have a fat hardtail with 2 wheelsets and 4 sets of tires (soon to be 5 sets). As you stated, there is a drastic difference in height when changing widths which I was not aware of until changing the tires over. I used a board and a level to show the difference since the camera distorts so much.
The bike came with 26 x 4.8 on 80mm rims which I studded and used for the first winter. Switched to 26 x 4.0 for summer and the first part of winter. Definitely more pedal strikes and loss of top speed due to gear ratio reduction. These performed so much better on dirt vs the 4.8 though.
For the icy dead of winter I run 26 x 5.0 studded. Not fast but so much more enjoyable when the conditions would not work for the 4". Major height differences between the 4" and 5" on the same rim.
To keep it interesting, I have a set of 29" wheels with inner width of 33mm. Depending on the time of year I'll mount 2.6" or 2.25" studded. This winter I will try 29 x 3.0 for when the trails are hard packed but not icy. This way I can quickly change from 26 x 5 studded to 29 x 3 non-studded. Can't wait to try this out.
Any data on the contact patch difference between a 29 x 3 and 26 x 4 when aired down for snow riding? Sounds like it might be similar.
Thanks for the feedback! I suspect the contact patch on a 29x3 is close to that of a 26x4. I need to take my 29x3 Beargrease in the snow and see how it does. I suspect the added width of the 4” will still help some, even though to total contact area might be similar. I have my 29x3 on a 35mm wide rim and it works great. Definitely glad my wheel builder talked me into that vs a 40-50mm wide rim.
@@ElevationEveryWeekend thanks fornthe feedback! One other thing, once the snow hits I mount my rear tire backwards since the knobs are ramped (Maxxis Minion FBR). The back of the knob is normally used for extra braking but is far more useful providing additional grip in the climbs. This was advice from much more experienced riders and it does make a difference.
Need to talk about rim width along side of tire size. Overall good explanation 👍
Yeah originally I had some info on that but felt it was getting too in the weeds, I think most people are in the 80mm width these days and those going to 100mm know exactly what they want. But agreed it can be a performance factor. Thanks for watching!!
I learned a lot from this. Thank you so much.
Thanks for watching!!
@@ElevationEveryWeekend You're welcome.
I didn't really like the way you presented your expertise a year ago or so. I thought you didn't know what you were talking about. I WAS WRONG. Now that I've ridden in most conditions and terrain with my two bikes having 27.5" × 4" on one bike and 26" x 5" on the other bike I now know you are spot on! Thank you for mentioning the option to add 4.5s to my 27.5s! I never considered that solution!
Thanks for the feedback! Yeah, there really is no PHD in fat biking, we are all learning as we go, and even then there are many variables that can factor in on the outcomes. Glad you still found some value after being able to compare with your own experiences. I think even my more recent videos on the topic show refinement (like the 26 vs 27.5 wheel comparison video I did in recent months).
I have a new Canyon Dude 8 carbon fat bike. I wanted the beargrease but you can't get one until the end of the year. I love it and it has 3.8/ 27.5 wheels and tires. I am going tubeless this weekend and the bike will weigh under 30lb. I live in the desert so no need or plan to go wider...I am turning into a fat bike weight weenie!
It’ll be a great setup for sure! Just got my first Canyon bike (an Exceed) and it’s a fantastic bike! To me the Dude is a good option if you couldn’t get the Beargrease, very similar design and capability IMO. Thanks for watching!
Great video, thanks for bringing this perspective up. It would also be interesting to analyze how, as psi is reduced, traction supposedly increases, even though the tire will have a smaller circumference. I take this popular belief with a grain of salt, having experimented with different psi on loose gravel and rocks, and skidded my way to skepticism. Cheers!
Thanks for watching!!
Please please please with your line up, talk about the different tires and how they work on pavement. I know this is a bit backwards but so many people are riding pavement on in between days or to and from trails and it can be very important. The information is just not out there and with your range of tires it would be super helpful to know. You at least have an Edna/Lou/Bud, and seems like you have some 45NRTH as well. Understanding how these roll-on pavement could really help people make a decision for an all-around summer tire. Thank you!
Frankly none of these are what I would consider faster rolling summer tires. But of these I would say the Edna’s are the lightest and best rolling on pavement or hard pack dirt. I will likely be looking for a lighter faster rolling tire for the ICT in the future. For 27.5, the Bontrager Barbegazi appears to be fast rolling, but I have yet to try them. For 26” I would be looking at a Jimbo Jim or a Cake Eater. There are various off brand slick options but I would not consider those for all around use.
@@ElevationEveryWeekend Hey, thanks for getting back to me. The Jumbo Jim was probably my current though, but Edna was in the running. I also briefly looked at Cake Eater but was unsure if you had experience. How do you think it compares? I know none of them are very low rolling resistance but trying to gauge what would be best mix for say 65/35 Paved/Trail.
@@gregorybupp I’d guess Jumbo Jim and Cake Eater are pretty close, but I have not used either long term to say for sure.
The only hardtail I've owned is my Canyon Dude fat bike with 26x4.8 tires. I enjoy riding it so much, that I was thinking of buying a dedicated summer hardtail with 2.5 tires. After test riding a Canyon Stoic, I found I actually would rather just ride the Dude year round. As a hardtail on 29x2.5" tires, the Stoic felt too harsh for the rocky New England trails here in Connecticut. Maybe I'd feel different with a plus tire hardtail that has a more compliant frame. With the right tire pressure, I don't even notice the extra rolling resistance of the Dude's 4.8" tires.
It’s a great bike, I love what Canyon is doing, I actually just added an Exceed as my mixed use gravel grinder. I ride fatbikes most of the time though year round and they are such a blast, if you’re not trying to hit Strava KOM’s then why not just go for fun and comfort!
Thanks for your perspective CJ, I've been through a similar experience with my Farley, which I "upgraded" to 27.5/3.8s (From 4.5s). I also thought of getting a XC hardtail and install 2.4s on it. But just adding a few psi to my 3.8s reduced rolling resistance noticeably, while keeping excellent traction for our loose terrain.
Great info - thanks for sharing. On which one of your fat bikes do you run 29x3.0?
Actually that 29+ wheelset isn’t for my fatbikes, maybe for a future bike build. I did try to get a wheelset built for my Beargrease, but supply chain shortages have stumped that. We’ll see what happens first, bike build or wheelset. Thanks for watching!!
Thank you for the video and explanations. I understand the patch idea somewhat. Would a 24x2.35 tire have a wider patch than a 20x4 tire? Which would be better for the snow?
Those are sizes I am not personally familiar with, so it would depend on how they stack up in person. I would suspect the 20x4 might be a little better overall though, keeping in mind that neither is really ideal for snow riding. Thanks for watching!
@@ElevationEveryWeekend Thanks for the explanation
Good job!
Much appreciated, thanks for watching!
I would love to see a review on 26 x 3; 26 x 3.5. ; 26 x 4.0 on the road!
That 3” and 3.5” sizes seem like they’d be tough to find these days. The only 26” wheels I have are on the fat bikes (meaning they are wide)!! Thanks for watching!
Great video. Clear and concise. Don't know how or why I missed it when you put it out May 2021? I'm sub'd as well for a long while.
Anyhow I have this dilemma at the moment with a new bike frame I have bought a Kona Wo with 190 rear spacing. Having a nightmare deciding on rim size and tyre thickness as I am having a wheel set built as I write. I have gone for DT Swiss Br710 26" rims front and rear with Rohloff XXL hub on the rear and either a Hope Fatsno 150 hub or an SP PD 8 X dynamo hub on the front with 4" wide tyres as I would like to do a lot of bikepacking trail riding. Not sure on the tyres yet which is a whole new sea of doubt. However I want versatility. This is the key. I was thinking of using 4" tyres on these DT Swiss BR710 rims which are I believe 76mm internal width which I think is pretty much 3 inches so wondering what is the min tyre width I could use on them? The DT Swiss website doesn't say. Would like if possible to go down to 3 inches tyre, although these on a 76mm BR710 rims might mean the rim is too wide for the tyre. In any case from you excellent video I think seen alongside the 4.8, 4.3 and 4.0 width tyres the 3 inches wide would be tiny which makes me think ANOTHER wheel set of 27.5 say with 4.0" tyres would be preferable, but I cannot afford another Rohloff hub just for a change in wheel size! I guess this is the down fall of a Rohloff hub you are stuck with a particular wheel size because of the cost of the hub unless your name is Bessoz. I am thinking I shall go with what I have decided as I would like a fat bike with the added flotation that larger volume tyres give eg 26" 4.8 and 4.4". Try it for a season or two, then if I want a different wheel size then either buy a second Rohloff hub $$$$$ or just swap the current 26" rims for 27.5". I had thought of 29er wheels but I don't want to max out the tyre size in the bike frame as if riding muddy trails you then have problems of mud building up and clogging the wheels and frame so it cannot be ridden. Also potentially damage to the frame from tight clearance from stones mud etc chewing and gouging the frame.
Could you possibly do another talking about wheel rims, widths and typical tyre sizes that they can accommodate. Possibly also a video on different types of material eg aluminium vs carbon if you feel you have enough experience/knowledge. Certainly a video on tyres would be a good one as you have enough in this video!
Many thanks.
The Kona is a good bike so I’m sure you will love it. As for the rim width, I think the 76mm width will be too much for a 3” tire. I actually have my 29+ wheels running 3” tires, and those rims are only 35mm wide. I believe many 29+ bikes are in the 40-50mm width max. 26x4 will be a good setup though. I have two Pugsleys, the base model has 65mm wide rims, and the Ops version has 80mm, both came with 4” tires and worked well, but I swapped a set of 4.3” Surly Edna’s on both bikes and love those tires. Good mix of tire volume, traction, but roll decent and aren’t too heavy. I have a few videos on these tire swaps.
Regarding the tire size video, I actually had sections on rim width in it but it was getting way too long and nerdy so I cut it out and focused on the stuff you see. Thanks for watching!
@@ElevationEveryWeekend Yes I am looking forward to riding my Kona Wo when it's built up. Wheel and tyre wise I am trying to hit the sweet spot as fitting a Rohloff hub it's not quite so cheap to start changing wheel sizes. I could go for a narrower wheel rim say 50mm like Surly Rabbit Hole rims but much lighter eg Hope or DT Swiss but then I lose the capability of running the larger 4.0+ tyres which I want. I think with the DT Swiss Br 710 76mm internal width the narrowest tyres I can use is 3.8" such as the Surly Nate but can run up to 4.8/5.0 with them at the top end. I think I'm going to get 4.0 or 4.3/4.4" as you have done. I shall then use the bike for a year, see how I get on, then if I want a different size of wheel/tyre combo then get the Rohloff hub re-built around say 27.5 with 3" tyres as you did. Many thanks for your full reply. It's been of help. Top YTer. A+++.
@@alexmorgan3435 Yeah just get it built up to meet most of your needs and start enjoying, you can always build a second wheelset down the road if you even need it.
Hello, new to the fat scene, curious if you have any experience with the Giant Yukon, considering the purchase of one , since my LBS has one in stock in my size and with the current bike inventory situation with fat bikes extremely hard to score. These bikes come equipped with 27.5 and 4.5 tires. Being new to fat bikes, when I look at that setup they just look gigantic to me. The Giant also seems to be a very good value, spec wise compared to other brands, Thanks for all the great info, for a newb
I have not ridden a Yukon, but I did cover it on my top 10 List for 2021, definitely a really good bike!!
If I add a 26 x 4.8 tire to my 26 x 4.0 bike, will I need to get a wider fork? With my 26 x 4.0 tire, I currently have only about quarter inch width clearance on both sides of the fork.
It sounds like it would be too small on the fork to run the bigger tire, so a bigger fork would be necessary.
Hi great content, I have 26x4.0 tires now on my bike, can I switch to 26x4.8 without issues, or does the bike forks limit tire width? (Front forks, rear?)
Thanks!! It would really depend on your bike and what the manufacturer has it spec’d at. Most are more forgiving in the front, the back is where things get limited first. If you check the manufacturer website you should be able to find the recommendation. You can also look at the clearance around the seat and chain stays and get an idea of how close you are now.
It's an old video, but I'm confused, still. I have a bike with 26x5 tires. I like them being so big. But, I want to put tires for summer and on the same time I don't want to lose in tire volume. As per my understanding the 26.4 will look much skinnier and the wheels will look like they don't belong to this bike. So... what tires should I choose to look "big" and on the same time to be perfect for summer?
Yeah it can be tricky, going down to a 26x4 will be lighter and faster rolling than 26x5, but it will not only lose width but be noticeable “shorter” which can drop your bottom bracket and make the bike feel different. Generally speaking to go to smaller volume tires, you want to increase wheel size to maintain about the same overall tire “height”, which is why a lot of people (myself included) run a 29x3” wheel and tire combo. If you wanted to still stay “fat”, then going 27.5x4” would do the trick too. There really is no other way to maintain that overall tire height you have now without making it up from a bigger wheel. Check out this playlist, I have a bunch of short videos showing different wheel and tire combos side by side, and more talking about 29plus and 27.5x4 applications.
czcams.com/play/PLZrEXKDmvWZVDwKx-z8YKUxqZKYsiofP3.html&si=187lkLwgCQaOQIXi
I'd like to know your thoughts 27.5+ for a summer fatbike wheelset v 29+. Would 27.5 + from 26 x 5" offer a lower bottom bracket?
I think 27.5+ would work well, probably better on some bikes than others (that may struggle to clear a full 29x3” setup). You will likely lower the BB a little compared to a high volume stock 26” fat setup, and certainly a 29+, but I can’t say it would be a really bad thing. 29x3 is often slightly taller than a stock fat setup, but in my experience it did not cause and major issues. But if I had to recommend, I would go 29+.
Good review.
Care to share other rims being used on other tires?
Here’s what I got from the vid, please correct me if I’m wrong
29x3 Rabbit Hole 50mm
29x2.35 ?
26x4 Rolling Darryl 82mm
26x4.3 Marge Lite 65mm
26x4.8 My Other Brother Darryl 80mm
27.5x4 ?
One more question, if you put another 29x3 tire on the rim using 29x2.35 will it be the same height with the 29x3 on Rabbit Holes?
Thanks!!
You are correct on all of the Surly wheels. The 27.5” is a Sunringle Mulfut, 80mm wide. The 29er is a Raceface AR25, which I *think* means it’s a 25mm width, but not 100% sure on that. It would be way too narrow to fit that 3” tire, but if you did I don’t think it would change the height too much. I had intended to get into wheel width but it was getting too technical and dragging out the main points of the vid, so stuck to what you saw. Thanks for watching!!
@@ElevationEveryWeekend 🤙🏽
How do you find the acceleration on the 2.0 version? I tried one of the originals but it seemed that the power being applied in pedal assist was all or nothing without a gradual increase in power as you start to pedal. Could it have been a setting on the 1st series or is it a feature of this bike?
Which bike are you referring to, the Ice Cream Truck?
What tire is that last 29er rocking? It looks gigantic. I have 29x3 on my current Trek stache and it doesn't look anywhere near that girthy.
That is a 29x3” Surly Knard on a 50mm wide wheel. Definitely pretty hefty volume going on there! I am running 29x3 Maxxis Minions on 35mm wide rims on my Salsa Beargrease and I feel it’s ideal.
Hi! I got 26x4" fat bike. And since I noticed not so good in winter to use.., because the tire doesn't have studs and a wide tire. It gets easily slide, so my question is, would it be possible to change my tire & rim to 20x4" and use they same body of bike? Thanks
It might be hypothetically possible, but not something I would recommend. It would likely result in major ride quality issues, assuming the pedals would even clear the ground. Sounds like you need a studded stock size tire, that would be much more effective, maintain the bikes ride characteristics, and much cheaper than the wheel conversion (if it even would be compatible with the drivetrain.)
Going from 26" to 20" would result in your pedals digging into the ground.
Very informative . I'm still wondering about going down or going up on the width . I have a 26 4.25 and having trouble finding the size , should I do 4.0 or 4.5 ? I'm kind of new at this . Thank you
Well, it’ll really depend on your bike and how much frame clearance you have (and the chain line on the drivetrain too). Most manufacturers will list tire size clearance on their websites if you want to check for your bike.
@@ElevationEveryWeekend thank you for the response . I'll check the clearance . I live in Florida and it's pretty flat down here , a lot of sand .
What do you mean by 'the length of the contact patch is more important than the width' for max traction and floatation?
I can't see that...
When you air down a tire, it doesn't get much wider, but the length of the contact patch gets much longer, this is where most of the benefit comes from, and is also why larger tire/wheel diameters (in bikes and other areas like 4x4 trucks) gives better traction and flotation in more extreme scenarios.
hello thank you very much for the video. my query is: if i have a 26x4.7 fatbike is it possible to install a 27.5x 3.8 wheel? i got a rocky mountain blizzard 30 year 2016
I did a quick search and it appears the 2016 Blizzard is 150mm front and 197mm rear spacing. If it came with 26x4.7” stock it should be able to clear the 27.5x3.8”. Just make sure you verify the hub spacing and get the right real hub to be compatible with whatever drivetrain you are using. Thanks for watching!
@@ElevationEveryWeekend great thanks 🙂✌ the rocky has front 150mm x 15mm and rear 197mmx12mm
Can somebody answer.. if i have a 26x3” wheel, when i add tires what would u guess the total width would be ?
It sounds like you have a 26x80mm wide wheel, which is a pretty common fat bike wheel width. As for your question, that's a tough one to answer, because it will depend on what size tire you fit (4", 4.3", 4.6", 4.8", 5"). And on top of that, even the same tire size can vary slightly between manufacturers. If you are worried about tire clearance, check the website for your specific bike and they should indicate the largest recommended tire size for the frame.
Great vid, but I'm still a little confused. can a 52 - 622 tyre replace a 57 - 622 one?
Cheers!
Thanks! For those sizes specifically, I don’t think there would be a very big difference, so I would say yes the smaller tire could replace the larger one. There may be some slight performance variations (pro and con), depending on the use.
@@ElevationEveryWeekend Thanks for the speedy reply.
I'm buying them second hand, online, so there's no refunds. Hence my hesitancy.
You're a gentleman.
Cheers!
Want to know about different styles of braking for fat bikes
They actually generally use pretty much standard MTB brakes on the fat bikes. They are all disc these days too.
Bro 26x4.0 Tyre circumference? Plz reply
I don’t have that measurement. I don’t have any 4” tires mounted up now either.
arent the hubs wider fot the fatbikes?
Yes much wider. There are a few rear fat bike widths out there, but a common combination is 150mm in the front and 197mm in the rear (compared to the current MTB “boost” standard of 110mm front 148mm rear).
@@ElevationEveryWeekend thanks!
rim size 20x1 fit to new tire 20x2 tire size ???
@@VanketNoiYeuThuong I am not familiar with those sizes so I can’t say for sure
is 26x4 size is perfect for my fat bike
You can do a LOT on 26x4. If that’s what came standard on your bike, then the bike was probably optimized for that setup. Thanks for watching!
So you can change your big wheels from fat bike to small
Yep, you can got to a bigger wheel with a smaller tire and then have more of a mountain bike setup. Most fat bikes have clearance for 29x3
Hi. 26x4.0 -26x4.50 -26x4.8 -26x4.9 correct tire size order from thin to thick
Just over a minute in I cover the exact sizes in the video for reference. Thanks for watching!
@@ElevationEveryWeekendI don't speak English. I'm using a fat bike, I'm thinking of switching to a thicker model for tire change, I'm wondering about the thickness order, after 4.0 4.50 4.8 4.9
@@tanertatltug5336 I think there are one or two 5” tires out there, but I think a 4.8” will do pretty much anything, in my experience
When I use a 4.8 tire, should I buy a new inner tube, and will it fit the rim I used for the old 4.0 or should I change it as well?
@@tanertatltug5336 you shouldn’t need to get a new tube going from 4” to 4.8”. As for fitting the wheel, I wouldn’t expect any issue there either…but you may need to make sure there is enough frame clearance in the back to go up to that size (some bikes just aren’t designed to clear the largest tires), and make sure the chain won’t rub on the tire in the large gears in the back.
Looking for 36 x 40c 🤷🏻♂️🤣
I would try it!
Good job!
Thanks for watching!