Modify the CH341A EEPROM Programmer (Black Edition) for 5V 93XXX & 95XXX Automotive Use
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- čas přidán 23. 07. 2024
- In this video I'll go over a combination of programmer software, EEPROM adapter, and programmer printed circuit board (PCB) modifications to allow +5V 93XXX (e.g., 93C66) and +5V 95XXX (e.g., 95040) SOIC8 / SO8 EEPROMs to also be supported by the ubiquitous CH341A USB MinProgrammer (Black Edition), in addition to its usual SO8 24XXX and 25XXX device support, but now in +5V as well (e.g., 24C08). With this support you can use this programmer to change VIN information in most Radio or Body Control Module (BCM) types sold in the USA from the 1990s and early to mid 2000s, as well as to perform odometer mileage correction manually in these same BCMs or an instrument cluster, for example.
In order to reliably write some SO8 EEPROM devices encountered in automotive circuits a +5VDC supply and programming voltage, rather than the default +3.3VDC, is required. This particular inexpensive programmer can be easily modified for this automotive module voltage requirement and allow for doubling the number of supported devices in doing so as well (from 2 to 4 EEPROM families) as shown in this video. While not all SO8 EEPROM devices can be written, or even read, in-circuit of automotive module circuit designs many can, and for those that cannot this programmer can still provide a very inexpensive DIY solution for light duty repair projects off circuit as well. These inexpensive programmers lack the over current protection or pin protection of most general purpose programmers, which allows them to be used for in-circuit reading and writing as well as off circuit for many (though not all) automotive modules.
NOTE: In order to read 93Sxxx security devices you will have to explicitly connect pin 7 (PRE) to ground (pull low) rather than leave it floating like I showed for 93CXXX devices.
CH341A USB to Serial Device Driver
Here is a link to the Microsoft Windows specific USB serial device driver from the actual manufacturer of the CH341A chip that forms the heart of this particular black edition EEPROM programmer: www.wch-ic.com/download/CH341S...
AsProgrammer EEPROM Application Software
The only reliable programmer software I have found to work with this Black Edition CH341A for 93XXX and 95XXX support, as well as retaining the 24XXX and 25XXX series, is a more recent private fork version of the open source AsProgrammer project (which is for Microsoft Windows). Here is a public link to version 2.1.0.13 (earlier 1.4.x and 2.0.x public versions do NOT work with 93XXX devices and the Black Edition) and so I can only recommend this closed source version 2.1.0.13 or higher (just the link.txt file has what you need):
forum.easyelectronics.ru/viewt...
Here's a translation of the Russian page to US English JUST FOR READING, the link.txt file for the download location usually will not work from within a Google translate page:
translate.google.com/translat...
NOTE: the above link is within Google Translate (since it's on a Russian electronics site where this AsProgrammer project was discussed) so you won't be able to click the mega.nz download link.txt from that post directly. You'll instead have to post the contents of the forum posts link.txt attachment in another tab outside of Google Translate to get it to show up to download.
The eBay and Amazon search links below are paid links, for which I may be compensated and earn a commission, if you choose to buy the parts and tools shown in this video thru them:
Purchase a CH341A USB EEPROM Programmer (Black Edition)
If you are looking to purchase one of these CH341A USB EEPROM programmers (be sure to pick a Black Edition by photo): ebay.us/5o4Wzo or on amzn.to/3eizca2
SOIC8 to DIP8 adapter blank board
Blank prototyping board: ebay.us/6QObm0 or on amzn.to/3s1ZjNp
If I've saved you some $$ here, consider some coins for the coffee tip-jar! ko-fi.com/drshock
Chapters:
0:00 - Mod overview
1:56 - 93xxx adapter
5:21 - 5VDC rework
7:05 - 93c66 EEPROM testcase
#drshock #ch341a #ch341
Disclaimer: DrShock, the alias for the human content creator for this CZcams channel, is not responsible for any damages, injuries, losses, or liabilities associated with any repairs, upgrades, or maintenance performed on yours, or any other, vehicle whatsoever. No warranty, express or implied, is made as to the accuracy or completeness of any information provided within this channel. Viewing and using the “as-is" information of this channel is totally at your own risk. Always wear personal protection equipment and follow appropriate vehicle manufacturer service manual guidelines with original manufacturer parts only when performing any repairs, upgrades, or maintenance upon any vehicle. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Thanks so much for this video, was tearing my hair out as to why I could read/write an off the shelf 95160, but not one pulled from an ECU. Did your 5V mod and it worked. Thanks again for the super clear instructions.
hello friend I don't know it may be your case but ... I bought a ch341a and what I bought in a virtual store came with a defect ... it even programs but with a malfunction ... so ... what happens when you close the ziff socket all the pins of the ch341a zif socket meet and when he asks to program the eeprom he ch341a sometimes burns the eeprom ... as i decided ... i removed the zif socket and put in a common 16 pin socket cobe right and I managed to program you noticed this defect in yours? found out with a mult-test ... thanks
@@sjoseph35san34 I've not seen this defect before, probably just a defective low end Chinese ZIF socket.
@@DrShock ok thanks
@@DrShock im brazilian thks so much
I'm very Happy I found your channel. I love finding new ways to smoke control modules... Cant wait to try this out.. Thank you!
This is amazing thank you!
Instead of busting up the CH341A unit itself. I ended up soldering wires in between the two break-out boards that came with it.
For VCC 5 Volt, I just made a jumper that can be attached to the yellow 5 volt pin.
Thank you again!
Same here. I had ordered some cables with famale connectors at both ends. Just hook them up onto board. For 5v, I hooked there instead of aditional board and voila.
But I have question, maybe someone sees and answers. How I know if I have 8bit or 16 bit? And address length... For me,seemengly most correct one came with address length of 6.
I am doing this for the first time, and for now I try only read. I need to compare the programming of instrument cluster from same car but for different engines ( different rpm and speed dials) to make may own design(I want 320 instead of 260)
Easiest way might be to power up the circuit and check and see whether that’s high or low on that pin
Thanks again for this video. You programmed a 93cxx here.
I used this guide to program a 95320 today. It worked for me on the 95320 even with 3.3V.
Gracias
Comprehensive and cohesive! Thanks. 93C66 read without errors. I soldered an old ethernet cable directly to the socket then ditched AS programmer for Neo Programmer.
hi, do you have a photo of your setup?
Great info. I have not done this stuff in years and getting back to my EE roots.
I have succesfully read an ST 95080 eeprom from a Magnet Marelli IAW-4MW ECU with this modification. Thank you!
Good
Did you use chine programmer
what a life saver. ive been using ponyprog over serial. my desktop died and i needed to write an 93c56 from my laptop. this saved the day.
Thank you for the lovely video. Worked like a dream. I was rewriting a ST 95 eeprom clearing a crash data as per your instructions by doing the hardware adoption. All went good. Keep up your hard work
Did you have to modify the adaptor for the 95xx too or was that just for the 93xx chips? Cheers
Great video, just got one of these for Mother Board bios or Hard drive read, didn't know it had more uses, this should save people a lot of time & $.
Thank you so much for putting this video together. I just followed your instructions and was able to crash reset my SRS computer with a 93c66. The only issue I had was with the programmer software you provided. I was able to read but not write. Downloaded Neo Programmer and was able to write.
Good bless you and your family really work well on automotive eeproms
Thanks for your detailed work here. I was able to swap out the Alarm module on my '01 Boxter using this modded programmer. Saved about $1000
its work with u?
Thank you for this. Was able to program 16bit 93C56 EEPROM with your instructions.
thanks for the video, the information about 8 or 16 bit for the 93 was very useful
Extremely detailed and super useful info. You are the greatest! Thank you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Brilliant ! 🤔😏👌👍
Added to my playlist.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge, the tip was very helpful.
Thanks a lot from Czech !!
No need to solder any wires, cut any tracks or lift any legs at all, I just connect another jumper on the pin header between the 3.3v and 5v rails, this effectively bypasses the 3.3v regulator providing only 5v to the ZIF socket and IC.
thanks steve can you post a pic of your jumper set up
Great. Could you show a picture how to do it easier?
Any pictures on where you put the jumper?
whatt phot pic ?
how?
Thank you for this very informative video 👍
Tried this out the other day, thanks BTW.
One thing I did Different was put a hard drive jumper on the 3v/5v pins on the top. It seemed to work fine. I might still lift the 3v center leg.
One heck of a learning curve for peeps like me...lol Changed a XM vin before breaking my cheep clip.
Did you still have to do the custom SOIC8 clip conversion that he did? I purchased a ch341a that came with a SOIC8 adapter. I'm assuming that because of that, I likely just have to plug it in, put the jumper on the 3v/5v pins at the top (I need 5v as well), and I should be good to go?
I jumped across the regulator, Vin to Vout basically (5V to 3V) by installing the jumper. I got 5V and yea h it seems like it would work correct?
Simplified 5V mod: just add a jumper between 3.3V and 5V. That's the two pins closest to the 25xx printed diagram. The 3.3V regulator does not blow up from this.
Thank you, this worked! M95160
ou 341 green
Works Gread Thanks for this tutorial Video.
Work for me thanks i read first 95640 eprom vw blankpunk
Thanks so much...solve my problem..best regard
Nice video. Thanks for sharing
당신은 천재에요
Hi, Thanks for the tutorial. I've tried to do as in your video using IC FM93C46 taken from EasyTouch GCU Tester's Glucose chip, but without modifying the VCC pin. It also worked with 3.3V VCC voltage, both to read and write this chip.
That would be a non-automotive application, so as expected. Consumer electronics use 3.3V devices. Automotive use 5V devices.
@@DrShock OK, thanks
Very useful video👍
Thanks for this video!
Thanks for that link.
There's lots of other useful info on that site.. Gracias
Perfect video!
Good thing I watched this vid. Was able to cancel my order. I didn't read the description that this does not support 9346 ic
congratulations, your video is the best. i have a cuestion: the pin 6 and pin 5 of 93xx are conected? thanks for your work. grettings from argentina!
thanks, it depends on the device you are working with and its use of the ORG pin 6, so you may want to rewatch this part at 2:52
Hello Dr Shock,Thank you very much for the good job you're doing.I was Wondering,Is there a way to write or change manually the hexadecimals on the Immobilizer file?Thank you
Thanks. The AsProgrammer software I mentioned (link in the description) handles that part, the main part of the apps window is an editor into the chips memory. So you can type over what's there and change it. It's extremely powerful, and dangerous. Be sure you know what you're changing and why, and have made a backup of the chips contents prior. You could easily _brick_ a module doing such edits.
Thank you for this video. Followed the link for the manufacturer's device driver, and seemed to install ok on my Windows10 64-bit,, but I don't see the device listed in my device manager, whether I have it plugged in, or not. Any advice?
Never mind - the device does show up, but not where you expect it. It is in DEvice Manager under "Interface." Now at least I can continue troubleshooting knowing that the driver is installed.
Thank you very much for video.
Great Video ! Would this be a good Alternative for Service programming GM Bcm’s for 2000-2010 approximate years? Might be able to bypass tech 2 interfacing and Gm sos.
Thanks, yeah over the next couple of weeks I'll be posting some videos illustrating exactly some of those concepts, for the early to mid 2000s designs of radios, XM receivers, and BCMs using this modified programmer. The BCMs in particular of these years are locked out of SPS because the Tech2 is designed to treat them as locked once programmed, thus blocking using an used one at all. So I'll be sharing some approaches to get around that.
Thanks. I did it and it works.
You are awesome! Thank you!
thanks for this video !
Thanks Dr Shock, I finally feel like im in the home stretch. Working on a BCM for 2006 Colorado. The Eprom is a 9365217. Would that be in the 93xxx series? Just starting to the mods.
I would expect it to be a 95xxx type eeprom (perhaps a 95040). But haven't ever worked on a Colorado, so could be different. It won't be identical, different BCM model an all, but you might try my other vid here for that chip type - czcams.com/video/0Kon-FjD0dM/video.html
Thanks bro it's working well thank a lot
DrShock Can you please teach how you modify it? I don't know where to start. How did you connect/modify the traces?
I wish you would make a more detailed video going over your bodge wiring technique under the pins. That process is very difficult to understand with the visual representation you provided.
very handy information.
Hi, great vid! I've just tried this with a 93C56AE off the info Display of my wife's Opel. I wired an adapter as you described but all I got was FF everywhere regardless of whether Pin 6 was Vss or Vcc.
I've just noticed on your adapter there are no signs of cut traces before you put the tiny wires around the pins. How does that work?
Thanks!
Thanks, yes I _repurposed_ the small adapter board for this by cutting each of the traces that are not needed for the adapter circuit first, and then rewiring it to serve as a 93X adapter instead. I didn't show the specifics of this, as everyone may have a different approach they want to take to making their 93X adapter. I went this route as it's cosmetically cleaner, you cannot tell it was rewired because all the bodge wires are hidden underneath the black plastic of the pin connector. Either way, you definitely cannot leave the original traces in place of anything you would reuse, as that would create short circuits when laying down the 93X adapter wiring!
So a couple of tips to account for reading 0xff:
- Some circuit designs *cannot* be read in-circuit with a test clip, the chip has to be desoldered from the board and read off board. This is because some circuit designs will allow the test clip power line to power up additional chips, which then create bus contention to read the EEPROM blocking any reading.
- Chinese import testclips are of extremely poor quality, you may have to fiddle with them a number of times to make a good connection. Be sure you have the red lined pin one of the chip in the correct orientation. USA made Pomona testclips are a huge upgrade.
- Automotive EEPROMs _require_ 5VDC to be written, this is totally different than EEPROMs of the same number and type used in personal computers and consumer electronics. Many circuit designs will require the 5VDC even to read the chip. So you must make the voltage mod also when doing automotive work.
- Some chips have a security feature that prevents being read, this requires additional adapter mods that are outlined in the video description. Such chips have a 93Sxxx numbering rather than 93Cxxx.
@@DrShock Very clever!
Thanks for the info, it will surely be a huge help! I've tried both on the board and also desoldered it and clipped the chip in. My guess now would be that 5v mod is probably needed to read it. i'll try that next time if I don't ruin anything in the process 😅
Thanks for the info, stuff like this is really hard to come by!
man you are a genius
thank you sir, fixed my car
I bought a slightly different version of the CH341 programmer (not "black") and it doesn't have a dedicated +5V pin. The only place where +5V can be measured on the pcb is upstream and downstream of the "3V" :-) regulator (the large regulator leg and the middle leg) and in the USB connector. Do you think it is safe to use the USB connector +5V and bridge it with pin 8 in the adapter for write power?
That used to be the problem with the earlier generation of these black edition ones too. Since there's no jumper, the BIOS type folks loved it being 3.3VDC but that's useless for automotive work. So yeah, you're going to get clean 5VDC from the laptop/PC USB jack as input to the regulator supplying your 3.3VDC. Depending on the regulator type, there might be a 5V passthru pin you can bodge directly from, otherwise I'd just take it from the input to the regulator. I wouldn't take it directly from the USB jack, it'll be less iron heat to tap the regulator.
@@DrShock Thanks! I'll tap the regulator input.
Very helpful thanks
Hello. Thank you so much for useful guide. I have a question. I removed voltage regulator for +5V modification. And I shorted voltage regulator's IN and ADJ pad.
Does this cause a problem ?
If your Black Edition is like the one I show in the video, this regulator is only for the 3.3V as the USB is supplying regulated 5VDC from the PC connection so it's not needed. But the ADJ is pin 1 on that regulator, and it's probably tied to ground (I don't have the schematic for this Black Edition to confirm) so I wouldn't suggest doing that not knowing. Just leave it as I showed it with pin 2 OUT raised.
@@DrShock i read eeprom today. Thank you so much again :)
There's no voltage select "jumper" on this particular programmer. That's one obvious reason for the bodge wire add. You have to address *both* power up to the device _and_ the programming voltage pulse output. Automotive grade requires 5V for both. Cutting the circuit board trace and bodge wiring it covers just the power up. We need to insure no use of 3.3V sourced for programming so we lift the regulator as well (while not all black edition PCBs are the same I show both mods for completeness).
If using a testclip is it not just easier to change the pinout and connected cables in the crocodile clip end? or cut and join the cabling instead of making minute changes to the board?
In older automotive you only need to be concerned with 5VDC so a permanent board change for that mod works out great. Croc type test clips are hit or miss doing work on automotive circuit boards. Usually too many obstructions so a pogo pin type clip can have better fitment. In still other modules you'll have to remove the device from the board altogether. Having an adapter between the programmer and these attachments let's you swap different tools in as needed. But this is really something you customize for what you need and what works best for you.
Tq so mu h sir it is very very usefull for me
if I apply this mod, would it work with 1.8V adapter required by some 25xxx chips? does the 1.8V adapter work with 5V or just with 3.3V so if I plan to use it I'd better acquire another ch341a?
This mod is to customize the programmer for automotive device use, +5VDC only.
Hello!
I need to read and write the 95320 series. Need to change the wire when connecting 25xxx?
Yep, covered at 0:56
#DrShock I followed all your instructions even connect 5V and install driver and reader software but the CH341A brand QSKAII with test Clip for EEPROM 93c56, reads "FF FF" every time even when it shows red light and green light when reads EEPROM. Please help.
Well for the 93XXX devices you need to build the pin adapter I show in the video. This pin adapter will sit in between the 25XXX ZIF socket on the CH341A and your device. This maps the pins correctly between the two EEPROM designs. So if you have triple checked the adapter wiring, and that you have the pin 1 orientation correct, then you may have a circuit that board that cannot be read in-circuit. This is fairly common, and in which case you'll need to desolder the device and read it out of circuit instead.
Thanks for replying so fast drshock, I have another question, after I bodge wired the modification, when I plug in the zif adapter into the ch341a all the lights turn off (the red power light) and it doesn’t get detected anymore any idea why it might be doing that?
That sounds like you're grounding something, I would double check your work for shorts.
DrShock thanks boss I’ll recheck
Hello Dr. Shock and thank you for your videos. I have not been able to find too many videos on this subject and definitely not for a newer GM models. This is very confusing for me as I have absolutely ZERO experience with this. But I feel like you are my only hope in accomplishing what I need to accomplish. I have a 2017 Chevy Traverse and my radio died. Well, it is stuck in a constant boot loop and it occasionally works long enough for the backup camera to work and then usually shut off in the middle of backing up. The reason I am telling you this, is because it is obviously getting power, just possibly not enough power. Any, I took it into the Chevy dealer and they said the infotainment center is dead and needs to be replaced to the tune of $2900. That is not going to happen. I have searched around and found unlocked versions of mine for $600, there is a GM replacement for $1,000. Again, not going to happen. I know there are some tricky things within the system but I found a donor vehicle with a DVD and backup camera like I have, but obviously it is locked. I have a few questions for you. Is it at all possible to purchase a ch341a that has already been adapted to use the 5v for automotive uses? Also, is it possible to copy data from original chip to the donor chip? I assume I would just have to save the old info and load it onto the donor chip. Or would it be easier to just clear the donor chip? Also, do you have any thoughts on what might be causing the original board to go bad? Again, thank you for your videos that are very informative and I look forward to your response.
Thanks. Your best course of action, given what you've wrote, is to find the exact same unit (same GM part number on the white sticker from the same year and model vehicle) and just swap the EEPROM chip from the old one to the donor one. I'm not familiar with the 2017 year so I couldn't tell you which chip it is though.
That will still need someone experienced in doing surface mount chip soldering. But that should get you back in business without dealing with the VIN lock or needing an EEPROM programmer.
To answer the question though, there are several flavors of these CH341a programmers floating around from different Chinese manufacturers. They all look pretty much the same. But some are already 5V defaulted, though the 3.3V default like I got is the more common hence the mod vid I did.
everything works . thx
How did you bodge wire under the pin headers? Did u do it with the pins on? Can you use any Solder wire to bodge wire?
You can use any solder, though 0.015" diameter is easier to work with on such a small target. You would implement the adapter bodge wiring I mention at 4:02 with 30 awg wire of the type used in wire wrapping prototype boards. I did mine to the traces on the small adapter circuit board I showed, and then soldered the pins in _afterwards_ . Think of this like wire wrapping to the pins but tack soldering to the trace first instead.
Many thanks for the super well narrated video. Q: Microwire 93s56 -w is that the same as a 93C56 for data and programming. I have purchase a new Instrument cluster for my car and I need to change the the Microwire EEprom 93s56-w or program the new from the old. Im not wanting to change mileage on the odometer just copy the old info from old to new. Sorry for my ignorance, but I'm new to this.
Thanks. Almost, the "S" indicates it is a security featured device, check the video description for some additional tips with these types.
After following your guide, unfortunately, I was unable to read the 93c86 on my KESSY module for my Volkswagen Phaeton, even after desoldering the chip and reading out of the circuit, is there something I'm missing? I tied pin 6 to ground, then I tried to pin 6 to VCC as recommended for 16bit, even when the 93c should be 8bit like you said, and still nothing, using the CH341a and Dupont connectors to wire everything non-permanently, triple checked everything, using 5v yellow pinout for VCC voltage at 5v, could this be the issue? the other non-VCC pins are still 3.3v, but even then I still should be able to read the EEPROM, could also maybe be that the EEPROM is fried? i also tried to read the donor board's EEPROM out of the circuit and resulted in the same error in As programmer, IC not responding, ive also had so many CH341a drivers installed from previous bios flashing on tons of motherboards, so maybe one could be interfering? should I try a virgin windows environment?
Thank you. i also tried using the spare little board to wire the connections permanently onto the board, still using (confirmed) 5v from the yellow pin and still, nothing, might buy another CH341a to mod, as my original was modded from 5v to 3.3v (reverse from what is done in this vid as mine was faulty from factory, would output 9v on 5v pin).
tried a fresh 341a from one of my buddies, brand new from the bag, could read 25wxx chips just fine, but same result for trying to read EEPROM from kessy, 93c86.
Help would be greatly appreciated, thanks!
My initial reaction is some short occurring in your implementation of the pin adapter I go over in the video, or installing it in the wrong section of the programmers ZIF socket. For a 93XXX adapter, it has to plug into the 25XXX section of the ZIF socket, same as with a 95XXX. Do no use the 24XXX section of the ZIF.
Another possibility, though you don't mention any "S" in the part number, is a security type of EEPROM. In the description, I go over the additional wiring needed for this type of device to be read/written successfully.
Otherwise, I'd offer the following basic guide of problem elimination:
- Verify you have the CH341a setup properly by just reading (and writing) a vanilla 24XXXX and 25XXX device. This insures both the CH341a hardware is OK, and that you have the AsProgrammer software correctly installed along with the USB drivers for Windows.
- _Carefully_ re-review the 93XXX pinout adapter implementation you have. There should be *zero* bodge wires and/or traces other than those shown in the video slides. Otherwise there will be shorts. Verify that you are getting the correct +5VDC (not +3.3VDC as that 3.3V will not power up an automotive 93XXX correctly) at your adapter on the power pin. Verify the ground pin of your pinout adapter also by using it alone to measure the +5VDC.
- Verify that the version of AsProgrammer you are using is the one I recommended, or higher, *only* as earlier versions of that software had severe bugs and would fail to read 93XXX and 95XXX devices.
- Try to read a 95XXX device, as this would verify you have the right level of AsProgrammer installed.
I hope these steps help. Unless you have an "S" version chip, the problem reading two 93XXX's in a row is most certainly in your setup (presuming of course the chip is an actual 93XXX and marked as such on the silkscreening).
I did this mod, but the chip was not detected on the IC900 chip in a Lexus ECU. I followed Binh's instructions in his video, and he referenced this video, which I also referenced.
When I connect to the clamp to the chip, Windows makes a ding like it recognizes being hooked up to something new, but the software doesn't recognize the chip.
Do you have any tips for troubleshooting? My solder joints are probably crappy with a $6 soldering iron outside, and I have no way of knowing if the conformal could is completely removed from the IC, which is still on the PCBA. Maybe the fact Windows recognizes *something* when I connect means all the pins are making good contact. Could it be a driver issue? TIA for any tips. I'm thinking about getting the CH341A v. 1.7 because it has a 5V switch. Is that a drop in replacement for the main CH341A you modified? I presume I still have to modify the connector I install into the main board as per your instructions.
The sound from the Windows operating system has nothing to do with the EEPROM chip. That is just the USB handshake recognition from the programmer itself. In fact, for the programmer I'm showing in this video, hearing this just on connecting to a device is abnormal behavior.
It's actually quite rare to be able to use a test clip on an EEPROM in circuit due to the test clip supplying power to the rest of the board inadvertently, so I'd first suggest desoldering the device from the PCB (printed circuit board) and attempting the read that way.
This _IC900_ chip you mention seems to be just a 93C56 type EEPROM @ 5VDC. So you'll need to do the 5V mod to the programmer that this video goes over for the correct voltage, as well as the pinout mod so that the programmer can communicate with a 93XXX device using its native 25XXX ZIF socket interface. Lastly, you'll have to use the software I mention in this video in order for the 93XXX to be accessible using this particular programmer.
We’re you ever able to figure this out ?
Great video, Question. If i used breadboard jumpers to the side 5v connection do i have to still cut the trace to the 3.3v and lift the middle leg on regulator? I think im going to use the 16bit option and tie pin 6 and pin 8 to the 5v on side yellow connector.
You can accomplish the mod however you like, but you cannot supply two different voltages on the same trace. Some modification of the circuit board will be required as we showed in the video there is a defect of sorts, in that there is only a single trace on the PCB and you cannot simply jumper between 3.3V and 5V at the same time on that single trace.
@@DrShock Ok,Thanks. Another question. Before the mod i get 5v at zif on pins 1,2,5,6. Is that the same on yours before mod? Thanks
_Before_ the mod, the version I had showed 3.3V at the programming pins. Hence the need to modify it for automotive work. Some versions are the opposite, they only work at 5V and if you work on PC BIOS type stuff you have to mod it to 3.3V. Unfortunately the typical mishmash of Chinese stuff.
Do you have a clip or adapter that will work with A86D (93C86) that is MSOP8 size?
Did you cut the traces on the adapter board before you run the new wires? i don't see that on the video
The video goes over the electronics background on building a ZIF socket adapter for the 93XXX series EEPROMs so that this cheap programmers utility can be extended for automotive. However building an adapter is an electronics exercise left for the viewer. There are many different approaches to implementing the schematic slides I shared, you can even breadboard it. To build the 93XXX adapter it has to be _clean_ slate with no traces at all of course as you are building the pin mapping in the slides I shared. I built mine repurposing an existing board, so that it would all fit underneath the black pin header but I am not encouraging that as it requires a microscope to do. You build the adapter using whatever you can improvise that meets the pin mapping requirements.
Good evening everyone, my question is if after having made that modification to be able to program the 93xx series can it continue to be used for both 24xx and 93xx ???
The 93xxx is an external adapter + software, so has no change to the programmer. The 5V mod is so you can do automotive versions of all these devices. That one is permanent, unless you do a toggle or jumper approach, you'll lose the general electronics type 3.3V versions of the same devices.
thanks for video
Thanks for this, I have made the modifications and can successfully read a RH56 chip (M93C56) 16bit. However I cannot write to it, Asprogrammer just hangs when attempting to write. I checked the voltage when connected up and measure 4.8v. What are some possible trouble shooting areas? Thanks
If you're still working with a testclip, I would try desoldering the device from the PCB and programming it off board first.
@@DrShock Same result. But I believe I have a firmware or driver issue. ASProgrammer V2.0.03a will read but not write using CH34A1 Hardware option. V2.1.0.13 will not work at all on either hardware option.
How can use RXD TXD GND point by usb programmer 341a please one video upload
Thank you for pinout information, I was able to read S93C66 from my Prius Plug-in 2013 Steering Angle sensor by doing your modification to CH341A. Now I am trying to find proper .bin file for my car, tried one advice to erase portion of data with FF but now instead of reading 850 degrees it reads 0 and lost communication. Others show on video that it should have some data other than FF in the middle of the file. Some forums offer file only for members. Will do more research.
I built this adaptor just like you did and I ohmed it out to make usre it all matched once i was done. However when i go to read a 93c76 8 bit i get a "microwire ic not responding check setting" error. When i put the chip in and plug the unit it both led lights are on and ideas???
If you are attempting to read the still chip soldered in the circuit with a test clip, you might try desoldering it and reading it on its own instead.
With the 95xxx eeproms, would I just need to bypass the 3.3v regulator and run the 5V wire and use the 25xxx socket?
Right, like I mention at 1:14 its just the hardware mods from the video plus using the specific programming software mentioned. There's no adapter needed for the 95xxx series just special software and 5V write capability (I've not come across anything else up thru 2010 GM vehicles yet).
@@DrShock please share me the special sofware Asprogrammer for 93Cxx with ch341
Hi from the UK!
I wonder if you could shed some light on an issue I have trying to read a 24c16 eeprom from a 2014 Land Rover odometer.
Apologies if this is a silly question I am not super experienced with programming.
Here goes, I have modified my CH341a with the 3.3v mod because my understanding was that I would be in danger of damaging the 24xxx chip trying to read off the board at 5v, however I am experiencing FFs and 00’s when attempting to read with asprogrammer.
You say that for automotive stuff (especially older automotive stuff) that 3v is useless so should I be attempting to read at 5v to give me an valid read? Any help at all would be hugely appreciated, I have pretty much hit a brick wall at this point and not sure where to go from here!
I managed to read a 93xxx from a PC motherboard before I did the 3.3v mod but since modding I can’t seem to replicate that for testing purposes (verifying the software + driver setup)
Great video by the way, very clear and concise info regarding 93xx 94xx eeprom chips. Liked and subscribed 👍🏼
Thanks. In the USA, all American manufacturers use 5V devices. I can't say whether that's the same in the UK, but I would strongly suspect it to be the case. Regardless, you should be able to read the device, the correct voltage is usually only a write concern.
So when you cannot read a correctly installed USA made Pomona test clip (Chinese ones tend to be single use in nature) then it's more likely a circuit board limitations. In practice very few automotive PCBs can be read in circuit. The vast majority are designed in a way that prohibits this. That's because the test clip voltage powers up other devices on the board, and you get bus contention.
So in these situations, you have to desolder and remove the device from the PCB, and program it that way out of circuit. Then resolder it back.
@@DrShock Thank you for the reply what you said makes a lot of sense! Kind regards!
Thanks so so much sir.
Pin 6 and 5 are connected at the same pin of the adapter? (pin 4)
Yes, these are explained starting at 2:45 in the vid. The ORG pin you need to wire depending on the needs of 93XXX device you are working with. Some will need this pin tied to Vcc instead of Vss as mentioned, it depends on the chips memory organization specified in the datasheet.
Hi, how can one tell which serie the eeprom is, is it on the numbers written on the chip? Mine reads S93C66. Does it mean it's a 93 series?
In your case yes, a 93xxx series. The "S" might denotes that it is a secure model, so more difficult to read (check the description text). Sometimes though automotive manufacturers/suppliers make up their own numbers called house numbers. And then it's a bit harder to figure out. But in your case, obvious.
@DrShock My goal for learning this type of technical information is to make my "junkyard" purchased radio in my Chevy Caprice / Holden Commadore work in its new home. The issue for me isnt that the radio is locked but its all in one comboed with the hvac controls so i have no heat or AC at all because of this..
Ive been working on the CH341A setup i purchased from your links this weekend and had moderate success. I was able to get the software and drivers into my new laptop and successfully launched the program. Heres where i have had a few problems. After hooking up the CH341A to an 8-pin EEprom that turns out to be a 64bit chip i did successfully connect and read the chip according to the ASprogrammer software.
However the first few times i read it there was no information at all displayed. Confused and somewhat disheartened i looked over how the ribbon from the "black clip on tool" to the reader was connected to insure it was indeed in the 24 slot with the #1 pinout in the correct location. Finding i had reversed the pin one i corrected this and read the chip again. Once again success, but no info at all showing in the software. It wasn't until i moved the ribbon chip pins to the 25 section of the reader that it gave me some form of info. mainly a jumbled letters and stuff along the right side of the screen. Nothing familiar or close to a VIN.
So, my question to you is:
1. Could you show a proper way to set up the CH341 usb reader for use in automotive 8-pin reading?
2. Could you maybe give an overview of how to tell what type of chips we are seeing in the boards?
3. Maybe a resource of how to know what kind of chip we are seeing (vs the weird combo of numbers and letters printed on the chip) and how to correlate it with the list of chips in the software would be extremely helpful.
4.Maybe an overview of the ASprogrammer software and setting it for specific auto based uses?
5. Lastly, I recognize that you seem to be able to go straight to the chip on the board that might release the lock off the radio, how is this possible and will you teach us?
I wouldn't request any of this without knowing that it requires your time and expertise of which i would gladly donate again for these questions to be answered. I bet more than just me would love the in-depth content as well. Thoughts?
There are four different EEPROMs you can encounter in automotive electronics from the 1990s thru the 20 teens. Those would be the 24XXX series, the 25XXX series, the 93XXX series, and the 95XXX series. You have to correctly identify the EEPROM you're working with, in order to get the adapter ribbon cable plugged into the correct half of the CH341a ZIF socket.
Past that there is making sure you get pin 1 lined up with the red line of the ribbon cable/test clip. This is sometimes indicated on the chip by a dot or bevel. Sometimes though there's no physical indication so you have to use the meter to try and identify the pin for Vcc and Vss manually.
Another caveat is very few circuit board designs can actually be read in-circuit with a testclip. The vast majority of the time, the EEPROM chip has to be desoldered from the circuit board and read/written that way. Then it can be re-installed onto the board when the reflash is completed.
Finally, the cheap asian import testclips are only good for about five reads before they lose their spring tension or the tips bend. If you need do this frequently, I'd highly recommend getting a USA made Pomona Electronics brand testclip for SOIC8/SOP8 devices.
@@DrShock One chip indicates: 24c64wq top line - st208p or st288p bottom line so this would be a 24xxx series? so it would actually have 24/25/93/95 in the number printed on the chip? I think thats where most of the confusion is setting in.
That appears to be a good number yes, 24C64 is a legit EEPROM in the 24XXX series. And yes, the first two digits signify that. But it's actually kinda common for GMs suppliers like Delphi to leave these numbers off and put their own part number on it. When that happens, you need to have more experience in how to figure out what the chip type is manually by trial and error.
But in your case, I would proceed with it as a 24XXX series and use the 24 half of the CH341a ZIF socket and set AsProgrammer to this specific chip type of 24C64. You should identify the manufacturer of the chip as well, by the logo silkscreened on it. As there are programming differences from supplier to supplier. AsProgrammer will provide the various chip manufacturers it supports. A good reference for the logos is how-to.fandom.com/wiki/How_to_identify_integrated_circuit_(chip)_manufacturers_by_their_logos/all_logos
@@DrShock Thank you for your help. Trial and error has been my greatest teacher along my life.
Ok I did the 5 volt mod, do I need to mod board for a 09400464 gm chip which I believe its a 24C08 Chip. I have tried to read it with just the 5 volt mod and I get an error. Any suggestions?
No, as mentioned in the vid the wiring adapter is just for 93XXX chips not 24XXX or 95XXX.
Can this be modified to get a D93A66 working? It's the EEPROM used in the BCMs of 2006-20?? Impalas. I thought making the adapter for the 93XXX would do the trick, but it didn't. I went ahead and just removed the original EEPROM and put it in the replacement BCM, but I'd still like to make a backup file of it, just in case...
As best I recall, you need to read a 93Axx in 16-bit mode. Try as a 93C66 in 16-bit mode setting in AsProgrammer. The only 93xxx I'm aware of that needs a bit of a different wiring adapter is the 93Sxx and I explain those extra pins in the video description. If it still does not read, it may be that the Impala BCM is simply a circuit design where the chip cannot be read in-circuit (this is due to the testclip powering up several other chips on the same read/write or data lines). There are many where this is the case, and you have to desolder the chip and read it outside the circuit.
Thanks Doc, Having problems with the download. Can you help and let me know exactly what to download? Thanks
You need to download USB drivers for this device like any other PC accessory. Where you bought it might include them, but I have a link for the one _specific_ to this particular CH341A black edition board if not (other boards may require other drivers so check with the seller first). You'll then also need an application to interact with the programmer, and for this I've included a link to a particular version of AsProgrammer that added the 93XXX/95XXX support. There are other programs that work with the CH341A black edition, but there are no other ones that support these automotive devices but AsProgrammer today.
Followed these instructions to the T on a new black edition.Turns out I had 5v on chip select and you can guess the rest on a 93c66 out of a Toyota immo. I don't know about the traces on the supplied mini board had anything to do with it but that part was left out. I cut them after the zif was killing the programmer. So now I'm back to square one with a fried chip and a car that won't start. Enlighten me on where I went wrong
In making the 93X adapter there are many approaches one might follow, and it was left to the viewer how they wanted to implement the requirements for the adapter using the datasheet crossover info presented in the vid. I went pin by pin on the adapters requirements, using Powerpoint slides I made for this starting at 1:56. If one decided to use one of those little proto boards as an initial basis to implement that info they would have to disassemble it in order to rewire each pin under a microscope to match the slides diagrams as I mentioned I did at 4:11. But this approach was just one possible example of how to go. I could only speculate were you went wrong was in making your zif adapter it did not exactly match the required crossover for each pin, based on your comment.
I cannot seem to get the lift up of the pin to the 3 volt. I don't have 3 hands to hold the iron, then a small pin or micro flat head screw driver and then something to hold the ch341a adapter. I am actually very good at soldering, but this tight space is very difficult, any ideas ?
Cut it
@DrShock, I apologize for the late comments but I have a question @ 3:58 when you were showing your adapter. Did you have to cut the traces for the header pins to the zif socket before connecting the wires as described @ 2:05? And if that's true, do I leave pin 1 and 8 alone since they connect to the zif socket pin 1 and 8 respectively?
That little PCB shown at the time index you're asking about is just something that came for free from the seller of the particular USB EEPROM programmer I showed. It's just an experimentation board and works just fine for making the pin crossover adapter we need for this project. Yes, you cut the traces on that experimental board as needed, if you go that route, and add bodge wires to implement the adapter I showed on the slide drawing. You are only making changes to the experimental board, you don't touch the ZIF socket on the programmer. The only programmer change is related to having 5VDC.
@@DrShock Thank you for the helpful tip! That definitely steered me in the right direction. Cheers~ 👍👏👏
Gaining hope as I see you repeatedly unlock radios and prep them to learn their new home. I have ordered the tools you suggested; test clip, lead wire, ch341a mini programmer and white thermal grease. Now please advise me on what software I can use on my iMac to run the programmer to get the Delphi 28379849 to mate with my 2013 Acadia.
Thanks
Sadly, I'm not aware of _any_ software that exists for MacOS which supports this particular chip programmer.
Hello, is there a way to trouble shoot? I have made all the modifications to the CH341 but I cant seem to get the ASProgrammer to read the chip (93c56) or get the run light to illuminate. I ge the CH341 error code in the ASP message window.
So the basics on this simple device for trouble shooting
- Make sure the CH341 is working _before_ making any modifications. Due to the low cost manufacturing, there can be defects/duds as well as basic issues like incorrect device driver installation. Use a simple desolded out of circuit 24C08 type device to test baseline working order - no testclip usage.
- As you make changes, test each change. Test 5V modification first, verify baseline operation is maintained with this mod before moving to the next.
- Test your separately created 93XXX pinout adapter. First tone out the adapter with a continuity tester to verify no mistakes made during creation. Then do basic reads of a 93XXX device out of circuit. Very important, you want a baseline before wasting alot of time with a circuit that cannot be read via a test clip.
This approach helps catch problems before they add up and are far more difficult to track down. Hope this helps,
@@DrShock Yes it does, Thank you.
I am kind of curious why one would want or need to write chips in automotive? It is an honest question, I work on PCs with this thing at 3.3 often enough but didn't think to use it on my car or truck. As someone else pointed out, it would be nice to figure out a way to bypass the need for a stupid expensive tech2 on our Saab. I'd love to also disable the annoying alarm without disabling the AC. (Stupid ass Saabs have the AC and Alarm tied together via fuse. So that isn't a pop a fuse and forget it situation). I am just curious what else could be written. Like maybe change timing, shifting ranges things like that? Disable dummy lights? shrug just guessing here.
This is a very common exercise in doing radio repair work, but also in instrument clusters and body control modules. You often need to manually re-write the VIN of the vehicle to the EEPROM to use salvage yard parts (used modules) vs buying new ones. This does not remove the need for a scan tool for diagnostics and flashing new calibrations, there's no getting around that requirement with GM vehicles. But it does allow you do things that even the Tech2 would otherwise prevent - reusing used salvage yard modules.
Nice and successful solution! thanks for the work you've done . Can you use a clothespin with 93xx? not using a ZIP adapter.
there are simply difficulties in translating)))))
Test clip I think is what you're asking about when you say _clothespin_ adapter. You would have to make your own cross over cable to use one of those (desolder the little adapter board that usually is at the end of the cable and rewire it as shown in the video). Remember you have to get the pinout shown in the video _cleanly_ for a 93xxx, and the test clip cable will be wired for 24xxx by default.
Finally an actual informative video! Now, hopefully I can find a new 93c56 chip and virginize the immobilizer in my Lexus.
On that note, does anyone know where to find 93c56EM8 chips? They seem to be impossible to find :c
Thanks. eBay is usually your best bet for chips like that, here's an affiliate link that shows a few sellers with the EM8s - ebay.us/yn8tzC
@@DrShock Thanks man! You just ended what seemed like an endless search
One question please, Dr Shock..
Do you mean the yellow jumper across 3.3V and 5V wasn't enough?
You have to cut the trace, in addition to installing the bodge wire there. As shown I further disabled the 3.3V regulator, as there is no chance I am ever interested in such a voltage for automotive work.
@@DrShock OK. Thanks
And I checked, the yellow jumper is for selecting programmer mode or TTL/serial. (not voltage like I thought).
My bad.
Hello, can I use this programmer to copy program from chip to chip? (Lets say 24LC512 EEPROM)
Well, only in the sense you can read/save on chip 1 and then load/write for chip 2. There's only one ZIF socket after all.
@@DrShock Thank you, I'll give it a try since its low cost compared to other programmers
When i connect pin 5 to pin 4, and connect to the pc, the CH341A turns off, i already did 5v mod and all connections, help please
You made this 93XXX adapter from scratch right? If you repurposed an existing board like I did, you have to double check your work that you cut/removed all existing traces to be left with _only_ the connections shown in the video. Some folks make the mistake of thinking this is laid down on top of those little green boards, but it is not. It replaces them.
Thank you very much for the video, I have my lenovo T500 which does not start anymore as before and remains blocked on
the first start page setup, I tried everything to get it to work with no success.
Now I want to flash the eeprom P24s08 memory because it is blocked, but I cannot find the bios
factory other than that offered by Lenovo support.
Can you help me get this copy from another T500 if possible or direct me to a site ....
Thank you in advance.
You'll need to find a site that stores copies of BIOS images I would imagine. You might try posting on some BIOS mod related forums. I don't do this kind of work so don't have any resources to suggest.
I purchased a programmer and it was advertised to already support 5v. Would this modification still be necessary? (Purchasing this to reprogram a gm radio)
Likely not, this video is about a programmer that originally only supported 3.3V
Would you possibly sell one of your modded setups Ch341 Black editions?
I just have the one I tested in the video sorry. If this isn't something you're comfortable doing yourself, you might reach out to a local robotics club or electronics one in your area (nextdoor.com or meetup.com) as anyone in those hobbies is going to do similar circuit board level projects
When I make the adapter do I cut the old trace from pin to pin for the 93 adapter or just run the wire and leave the traces connected?
You would have to cut the existing traces, otherwise of course you won't end up with the proper circuit paths for adapting the chip pinout. You're just reusing the connector if you go the repurposing route. You're not reusing the traces.
Thanks now I just have to figure put how to no witch eeprom is in my radio and other moudles
can i use modified CH341A as this video showed to read 95320 EEPROM ?? thx
yep
Thank you for this video. I have a 2016 Sierra with a Bose Amplifier module that has a internal error. I can save $300 if I can get a salvage yard amplifier module but was wondering if you knew if this eeprom tool would work on that type of system. Alternatively I can swap the chip off of the old module into the "new" module but I don't know if that would be all that's needed on a module like that and I don't want to brick my existing module since it still functions with its quirks. I do have all of the hardware to program a new module from the AC delco website, just would like to save $300. Thank you!
I'm not aware of any sort of VIN lock for an amplifier module, as long as what you are describing is a physically separate unit from the radio module itself. You shouldn't need to edit or touch the amplifier modules' circuit board, and just proceed to re-calibrating the salvage yard amplifier module with SPS2 on Techline Connect using either an MDI or MDI2 scan tool.
Now, it's possible that with 2016 and other newer years GM has blocked re-using an used module of this sort within Techline Connect. That is happening more and more with the Global A and newer platforms lately. But I'm not personally familiar with this.
@@DrShock ok thank you. I'm pretty certain this is a separate module from the radio, but if I unplug the MOST bus from the amp the entire radio goes down do I will do some more digging. I am worried about bricking my truck 😂
@@DrShock You are correct. I received the module from the salvage yard today. Plugged it in and it works without programming. I also learned that I have a sub in the console that I do not remember ever working since apparently this amplifier has been non functional since I bought the truck new. I think that replacing this module cleaned up some noise over the network and now my truck shifts normally. How could that be you ask? The amplifier has a signal repeater for the cam sensor to adjust the radio volume as the vehicle accelates. So far so good. Thank you for the video, I'm not sure I would have tried the salvage yard module without it.