This is the ideal time to consider adding a few in-line thermocouples to the coolant/oil lines and make the whole system easier to monitor than using a camera recording a meat thermometer.
I'm hoping you're planning on pulling the redrive and the turbos apart. Given that the engine failed due to oil starvation it's very likely that there is metal contaminant basically anywhere there was oil. Any oil coolers and their associated lines really need to be flushed as well.
@@rolandtamaccio3285 Yes, but he actually installed it and circulated oil from the blown up engine through it. So everything, including the new turbo center section, requires a good cleaning.
Sir, please pull the cylinder heads and inspect the burn pattern on the pistons. If the burn pattern extends across the top of the pistons and is not completely contained in the piston that could indicate that the fuel is being injected at to slow a rate and excess heat is being put into the cylinder walls. If there is a problem there, Gale Banks has learned a lot about this the hard way (burned pistons in a world record diesel) and I'm sure he could help.
Please consider cutting holes in the electric fan shroud outside the fan opening. The shroud is restricting free flow from the air flow. It is definitely a restriction it is common in automotive applications and will allow the prop to pull air through the engine compartment. I would bet my last dollar you will have solved all your cooling problems.
@@RaptorAircraft Im happy to hear the replay I have tried to get your attention in the past. I have a turbo v8 making over 500 hp in a 68 Camaro so I know it's not the perfect comparison. However the first generation Camaros are notorious for cooling problems even with the stock engine. They have a very small grill. I was determined to use an electric fan setup for the A/C and to shut the fans down when I wanted the HP. I worked for nearly a year and had no luck with running an electric fan with a shroud I spent tons of cash and no luck. I dropped the shroud and I can sit at idle for can hour cold A/C and a switch to disable the fan for the occasional red light challenge. I love the aircraft I hope to one day fly one. Good luck thanks for taking the time
Peter, why don't you disasemble the damaged engine! Maybe it would be better to take a look inside, and se how much damage it's been made. Most likely a lot of that engine is reusable. Also, you will be more familiar with the powerplant that you are using. Best to you, from the Norwegian.
It's probably a core exchange situation, so unless that engine can be made airworthy for very little effort and expense it's probably cheaper and easier to just exchange it for a good one.
@@Skinflaps_Meatslapper He still could do a strip and inspect. The engine supplier would be expecting some disassembly to diagnose the cause of failure. No skin off his nose so long as the engine core was still complete.
@@todaywefly4370 Oil starvation is likely well documented with these engines already, and it's definitely well documented enough with engines in general to get a pretty good idea of what was damaged and what wasn't. I'm sure he's got plenty of other work to do beyond poking around in a dead engine.
@Shawn Huffman That doesn't need a disassembly, that just needs a boroscope. It doesn't even have to be out of the aircraft for that type of inspection.
@Shawn Huffman Lycoming has a procedure to check valve wear by dropping the spring and keeper then measuring runout on the end of the valve with a dial indicator. Take a measurement every 90deg, and if you're within tolerance then no further disassembly is necessary. I've done it a few times myself. How that would equate to the Audi would be the removal of the OHC, not as much work as taking a head off but comparatively simple. Some lyc powered R44's had to be re-lapped as a result of some incompatibility between the engine and heli use, that was quite a bit more involved but there was also a procedure to do it without removing the cylinders using rope and tubing. However, that procedure was only necessary if a static compression test revealed valve blow-by, and all that required was a comp tester and listening to the exhaust. How that equates to the Audi would be as simple as replacing a glow plug with a comp adapter and doing the same thing. A lot of things can be done with engines without needing to take them apart. Whether Peter is doing these things or not, or even if these things are necessary, may be a different story...an Audi diesel engine is a world unto itself. These engines routinely run EGT's up into the 1400-1500F range on a factory tune during full throttle runs. 1600F is the max EGT for a TDI with sodium valves and 1625F is the max TIT for these turbos, but it's not like once you exceed those temps the engine automatically starts destroying itself. I've yet to see a single engine log that these temps were exceeded by any measurable degree. This engine is being pushed fairly hard but it's not being pushed to its limit.
I'm curious about this too. In an earlier video Peter said he thought he made a mistake putting the oil cooler infront of the intercooler and to fix that would require an engine out. Since this is now happening, will you looking to change that orientation or do any other modifications?
Is it possible that now the engine is out you address the compound turbo issue? As both are the same side one of them doesn't operate in ideal conditions. As the plane have turbos in series the first one should be bigger. The low pressure turbo moves more volume.
Yes! This👆🏼👆🏼👆🏼👆🏼👆🏼👆🏼👆🏼👆🏼👆🏼👆🏼👆🏼👆🏼👆🏼👆🏼👆🏼👆🏼👆🏼👆🏼 Please take the time to listen to great advice on your turbo setup causing excess heat. You know, as was commented by the guy who DESIGNED YOUR ENGINE!
At least drop the oil pan see how much metal in there. If there are big pieces you will at least know look for the small bits in the lines and coolers. Turbo cartridges can frag some nasty stuff into the oil system plus a broken rod something has to have gotten hot to snap that.
Peter you have been given some great advise by some of your fans. Please consider some of these ideas in your buildup of the replacement engine. Cylinder checks, thermal couple additions, changes that can be made easier now that the engine is out. We are all here with you Peter if you need us$$$ I know funds have to be running low so let us know if you need some more help. Cheers Peter we’re all rooting for your success with your Raptor Aircraft!!! You’re the Man!
Static stability is not there watching all your videos , its looks very unstable inflight . A car engine just may not work , Im thinking you will eventually end up with a lycoming ,or continental motor
Amazing amount of work done in a very short time. You are a very hard worker. Any chance that you will rebuild this engine? It might be nice to have a hot swappable spare engine for future testing. BTW what is the exact AUDI engine that you are using?
So many comments on here trying to help out. Very little I can add to this other than the " New Motor " sounds like one pulled from a wreck and bolted in. There is brave pilots and there's old pilots there's bugger all old brave pilots
I am very interested to hear what you find when you tear the original engine down. I don't know much about the Audi engine but I know that in the Cummins in my Dodge Ram, there are oil nozzles that spray oil at the bottom of the pistons to cool them. Does the Audi engine have them? If not, did the installation of the windage tray in any way affect the supply of oil to the bottom of its pistons? If it did, that could explain the failure of that piston :-(
Your tenacity, amazing as always. you have been mentioning a larger radiator for the last few flights, now that you have everything apart, it might be time to consider the option of installing it.
For whatever it’s worth: my aircraft’s engine makes 350 HP. It is a gasoline burner, so less efficient than a diesel. The size of the coolant radiator is approx 10 x 9 inches, thickness 3.5 inches. It is installed standalone with inlet expansion duct and a depression outlet. It works very well until ISA+10. I believe that aircraft radiators do not like fans attached to them. The best practice is to create a pressure differential across the radiator by purely aerodynamic means.
I'd have to find out how a single turbo, on each bank would work . Yes, total pressure would be lower, but you would pick up quite a bit from reduced drive pressure, which I don't belive you have measured yet ; however I don't know if power would be enough for 25 thosand feet . And also greatly reduced heat generation .
Somebody do the math, please, well the probable math . It's not the same as a mechanical supercharger . So, 40 pounds would be no problem at sea level, for a single, not compounded, on each bank .
@@rv6ejguy well, I have a back up plan, to reduce drive pressure, lower heat generation, especially piston heat, which will greatly reduce oil temp, and make enough power . Just dump the exhaust out each side, also getting rid of much plumbing, and compounding the intake side only .
@@rv6ejguy ,,, I am talking staging the intakes, ( only ) . Not gonna say you are wrong, but I've seen the turbocharger experts, superceded many times over the years . My Diesel makes 35 pounds at sea level, with a 21 year old system, with the exhaust system that looks like 19th century pumbers designed it . Dammit, I've had it to 11 thousand foot but don't remember what it made , but the engine was very quiet, lol .
@@rv6ejguy You don't need compound turbos you just need a different, larger turbo. Also you don't need necessarily need to make sea level HP at FL.1) The airframe might not even be able to handle those speeds. 2) The engine hasn't been tuned properly so most likely a simple tune would get him a lot more power
When you initally installed the redrive you had issues keeping the belt centered. Are you able to make the tensioner slightly concave to keep- the belt centered? You also had difficulty with no backup for the ECU. Is it possible to have two ECU products connected to the same end points, but with their leads going through a mujlti-port t wo position rotary swiitch?
some great progress there Pete do you think you might attempt an engine rebuild after you have installed the replacement - as you have your engine rig you could be testing that in between flights (if n when pos, i know your busy) i also wonder if you might try and get your pistons Teflon (ceramic coated) this can reduce wear and tear plus reduce engine head heat transferring through pistons to crank oil - can have up to a 40% reduction in oil temp, could be useful, and maybe worth testing on engine one, obviously i know its down to cost and time etc, might be worth investigating, its not something i have yet done, but i have have done a little research i left a previous comment else where on a previous video with links to an Australian company that does it, but i can locate again if your interested, also companies in US, a chap building his own Race cars has a company in same street
This is an incredible project and you’re doing a fantastic job. My personal experience with Audi and VW engines are such that I would never pick that manufacturer for an aviation application, but that’s just me, your mileage may vary. Good luck!
Totally agree. I'm in this for the airframe...I will not be using an Audi engine in it when it comes available to the public. I've owned an Audi once...once!
Martin is doing it depth-first, without ever yet creating a fully functioning machine. Instead, I have recommended that he do it the way Peter is, finishing a first draft and then working on the parts that need work. In the meantime, he and his band could be learning how the actual musical instrument sounds and preparing their parts. I have lots of suggestions for Wintergatan, but none at all for Peter. Onward and upwards.
The temperature sensor showed in minute 3:57 don't senses the real temperature of the engine, because is to high and don't touch the water, because the housing can accumulate air or steam.
Good luck. Shipping has been all over the board for me and others. For the production machine, would it make sense to make the rear frame assembly removable?
great job peter. way to hang in there. LKQ- great guys. they have a HUGE one near me in stockton, CA. saw the comments about the storm. ruh-roh! forgot didn't think about that. hope you get your parts soon. (fingers & toes crossed!)
Can't you take your bad engine block and go to Audi and get a brand new core? That wasn't an option back then but now it is as you have one. It'll cost more but save you potential trouble with another used engine with unknown history / accident.
Peter, I don't know if you had a chance to see, but there were some mechanics on here explaining how the first turbo needs to be bigger than the second turbo. There needs to be at least twice as much air flow I think if I remember correctly. Have you considered that possibility?
The LS3 would be more powerful at sea level, but will lose power faster than a turbo as altitude is gained. Above 10,000 feet, the turbo should be making more power if it can stay cool at those altitudes.
@Shawn Huffman Yes you could, but the turbodiesel is there for efficiency as well as power. Superchargers are parasites, consuming power that could other wise be used for propulsion reducing powertrain efficiency. They are always being driven, even when not producing boost. It also adds weight which is already a big problem with this aircraft.
Just a small point on Circlip for redrive. Are you aware that circlip's have a load/non load side. There is a minor radius on the no load side, often hard to see. Square end is load side. Thanks for great videos, sorry you lunched engine, that's not cool. Best, Ian
You're the only person i know of, other than one lad i worked for, that knows this. The way i was told was that the circlip holes are punched out and because of this, they are slightly tapered. This helps the points of the pliers grip one way but helps it slip out the other way. I hadn't considered the whole circlip! I'll make sure to talk with the apprentice in work on this so we can both learn! Thanks!
Tha ks for the update, i gusses during the engine replacement , it's a chance to look for any issues, needed the engine to be uninstalled to vet done, I'll be tuning for the coming update, finger crossed.
Not sure I understand why you have to push a Diesel engine so hard. Max torque is less than 2,000 rpms. Why can’t the engine / prop be 1 to 1? No need to run at 3800 rpms with that kind of torque and running twin turbos but not compounded. I am sure there is a reason but would love to hear why the engine / prop and turbos are setup this way?
hey Peter, while you're at it maybe install a bigger coolant radiator and if possible delete the oil to coolant heat exchanger and have a bigger oil cooler,. Long shot but maybe you should also consider separating the engine oil system from the prop governor and have that as an independent loop with its own tank. Not sure how feasible all this is but since you've taken it apart is as good of time as any to improve your cooling. With all that happened I'm glad to see you're in good spirit and getting it back in shape for more flying, can't wait to see it in the air again.
This video is very, very important.....because it gives us the real insight of "ease" engine swap with $5,000 new engine. Now we are comparing Audi engine to $45,000 Lycoming engine. I'm glad I'm watching this Raptor Aircraft videos for nearly 2 years..as it helps me understand better on dealing with Raptor aircraft.
Good excuse to upgrade your power. A corvet 700 HP Chevy V8 is prob the most compact lightest V8 available. Short take offs, turboprop type climb and high true airspeed! Speed sells!
Imaging climbing at VNE!(never exceed speed)...everyone and their brother would want one! Honestly I wasn't impressed with her climb performance with one aboard and wondered how she would climb on a hot day at MTOW(Max Take-Off Weight)
I would definitely flush all the oil feed lines for the turbos and redrive. Little bits of metal have gone trough them! I would hate to see you put another motor on just to get trashed by metal flakes. Good luck with the reinstall..
just read the peanut gallery!!! hilarious!!! some good questions about the old engine, rebuild, thrashed? obviously you would clean out all oil lines. So far so good, cooling could be rethought now that all is out, how about a straight 180 degree thermostat? More cooling for the oil and there you go!!, Your adaptations to problems is impressive!!! good thinking. Isn't it amazing how much time it takes to disassemble and reassemble an engine!!! Well, sit down, relax, rethink, and go with your gut!!! Stay on it!!! 100,000,000 attabits!!!
So sorry to hear you got sucked into LKQ's vortex of BS, lies, and general douchery. (This post was too long, so I cut it down to this.) I had 2 warranty claims. They fought the second claim, because it was on a warranty replacement engine AND it happened a couple months after the warranty on the original engine expired. Still had just under half the warranty miles left. But I timed out. Because TWO of their engines failed. Very expensive lesson, and my Jeep was in the shop for 11 months. And that's the short version. My condolences. I respectfully recommend Jasper in the future. Excellent reputation. My attempt to save some money cost me $1500 more than the Jasper would have cost. And the year....
Peter...its really great that you are putting these videos up for the fans and distractors to follow, but how to you put up with so many arm chair experts. Why don't you just put the plane together and then put it out for public consumption. Sink or swim....it would result it a lot fewer frustrations and distractions for you.
how do the words of Edison go? I didn't fail1,000 times. The light bulb was an invention with 1,000 steps." "Great success is built on failure, seems really far back for the pitot static, usually they are mounted on wings or near the nose where there is cleaner air flow. just wondering why that location
hey folks just wait for the next ep... lest we have other click bait. raptor mi ol' mate have you heard of vocal inclination.... seriously ya sound flat, dull, c'mon mi aussie be enthusiastic. ya sound as interesting as s eating boot leather. i i just want you to have lots of subs
There are about 500 million channels you can go check out if you want entertainment. This is informative. Heck - check me out on CZcams. I've got 100's of thousands of views on my music videos I play on. That's meant for entertainment :)
Get the cooling fixed before you put it back together. Now is the perfect time to do some modifications!
This is the ideal time to consider adding a few in-line thermocouples to the coolant/oil lines and make the whole system easier to monitor than using a camera recording a meat thermometer.
I'm hoping you're planning on pulling the redrive and the turbos apart. Given that the engine failed due to oil starvation it's very likely that there is metal contaminant basically anywhere there was oil. Any oil coolers and their associated lines really need to be flushed as well.
Pete, already has parts for the turbos .
@@rolandtamaccio3285 Yes, but he actually installed it and circulated oil from the blown up engine through it. So everything, including the new turbo center section, requires a good cleaning.
I had a subaru spin a bering , they wanted the oil cooler replaced as you said it can be full of metal.
Sir, please pull the cylinder heads and inspect the burn pattern on the pistons. If the burn pattern extends across the top of the pistons and is not completely contained in the piston that could indicate that the fuel is being injected at to slow a rate and excess heat is being put into the cylinder walls.
If there is a problem there, Gale Banks has learned a lot about this the hard way (burned pistons in a world record diesel) and I'm sure he could help.
Could a bore camera be snaked in where an injector goes?
@@BrendaEM They do make bore cameras that are small enough but it would also have to be lighted.
Looks like you've got the opportunity to address a lot of issues and upgrades before she gets put back together.
Aegrescit medendo or put simply Cuiusvis hominis est errare, nullius nisi insipientis in errore perseverare. Right?
I am amazed at your resilience, Peter. You are an inspiration.
There is a lot of snow and ice between you and that engine. You may not see it for a while.
Time to install a N/A Continental 550 engine....
The fact that the Raptor runs on diesel instead of AvGas is one of the biggest selling points. You won't be able to get 100LL for too many more years.
And call it Velocity redux?
@@Stefonius and the gain in energy per gallon consumed, efficiency is better on a diesel, and torque.
Please consider cutting holes in the electric fan shroud outside the fan opening. The shroud is restricting free flow from the air flow. It is definitely a restriction it is common in automotive applications and will allow the prop to pull air through the engine compartment. I would bet my last dollar you will have solved all your cooling problems.
No, there are already flexible flaps that open around the fan shroud to allow air to come through when pulled.
@@RaptorAircraft Im happy to hear the replay I have tried to get your attention in the past. I have a turbo v8 making over 500 hp in a 68 Camaro so I know it's not the perfect comparison. However the first generation Camaros are notorious for cooling problems even with the stock engine. They have a very small grill. I was determined to use an electric fan setup for the A/C and to shut the fans down when I wanted the HP. I worked for nearly a year and had no luck with running an electric fan with a shroud I spent tons of cash and no luck. I dropped the shroud and I can sit at idle for can hour cold A/C and a switch to disable the fan for the occasional red light challenge. I love the aircraft I hope to one day fly one. Good luck thanks for taking the time
Raptor Aircraft , is the crankcase and sump vented.
Lookin good
Now is the time to make that bigger radiator!
Peter, why don't you disasemble the damaged engine! Maybe it would be better to take a look inside, and se how much damage it's been made. Most likely a lot of that engine is reusable. Also, you will be more familiar with the powerplant that you are using. Best to you, from the Norwegian.
It's probably a core exchange situation, so unless that engine can be made airworthy for very little effort and expense it's probably cheaper and easier to just exchange it for a good one.
@@Skinflaps_Meatslapper He still could do a strip and inspect. The engine supplier would be expecting some disassembly to diagnose the cause of failure. No skin off his nose so long as the engine core was still complete.
@@todaywefly4370 Oil starvation is likely well documented with these engines already, and it's definitely well documented enough with engines in general to get a pretty good idea of what was damaged and what wasn't. I'm sure he's got plenty of other work to do beyond poking around in a dead engine.
@Shawn Huffman That doesn't need a disassembly, that just needs a boroscope. It doesn't even have to be out of the aircraft for that type of inspection.
@Shawn Huffman Lycoming has a procedure to check valve wear by dropping the spring and keeper then measuring runout on the end of the valve with a dial indicator. Take a measurement every 90deg, and if you're within tolerance then no further disassembly is necessary. I've done it a few times myself. How that would equate to the Audi would be the removal of the OHC, not as much work as taking a head off but comparatively simple. Some lyc powered R44's had to be re-lapped as a result of some incompatibility between the engine and heli use, that was quite a bit more involved but there was also a procedure to do it without removing the cylinders using rope and tubing. However, that procedure was only necessary if a static compression test revealed valve blow-by, and all that required was a comp tester and listening to the exhaust. How that equates to the Audi would be as simple as replacing a glow plug with a comp adapter and doing the same thing. A lot of things can be done with engines without needing to take them apart. Whether Peter is doing these things or not, or even if these things are necessary, may be a different story...an Audi diesel engine is a world unto itself. These engines routinely run EGT's up into the 1400-1500F range on a factory tune during full throttle runs. 1600F is the max EGT for a TDI with sodium valves and 1625F is the max TIT for these turbos, but it's not like once you exceed those temps the engine automatically starts destroying itself. I've yet to see a single engine log that these temps were exceeded by any measurable degree. This engine is being pushed fairly hard but it's not being pushed to its limit.
Now it can get a bigger radiator and oil cooler
Since you have a few days are you planning on inspecting the inside of this engine Peter?
id love to see a post mortem video.
How does the break-in go on this type of engine?
will you have this motor be rebuilt?
Now you have the engine out, do you plan to make any major changes to the cooling system?.., I havnt watched the entire video yet.
3:50, just a thought Peter but since you have put custom temperature sensors in, might you be getting elevated or misleading temp's?
I'm curious about this too. In an earlier video Peter said he thought he made a mistake putting the oil cooler infront of the intercooler and to fix that would require an engine out. Since this is now happening, will you looking to change that orientation or do any other modifications?
Are you replacing all the oil coolers and lines incase there is metal in it or at least flushing the whole oil system?
Is it possible that now the engine is out you address the compound turbo issue?
As both are the same side one of them doesn't operate in ideal conditions.
As the plane have turbos in series the first one should be bigger. The low pressure turbo moves more volume.
Yes! This👆🏼👆🏼👆🏼👆🏼👆🏼👆🏼👆🏼👆🏼👆🏼👆🏼👆🏼👆🏼👆🏼👆🏼👆🏼👆🏼👆🏼👆🏼 Please take the time to listen to great advice on your turbo setup causing excess heat. You know, as was commented by the guy who DESIGNED YOUR ENGINE!
Curious.. how does the engine swap effect the first 40 hours? Do you need to start the clock all over?
If this becomes a major alteration, 5 hours would be needed but there are more than 5 hours left anyway.
At least drop the oil pan see how much metal in there. If there are big pieces you will at least know look for the small bits in the lines and coolers. Turbo cartridges can frag some nasty stuff into the oil system plus a broken rod something has to have gotten hot to snap that.
Peter you have been given some great advise by some of your fans. Please consider some of these ideas in your buildup of the replacement engine. Cylinder checks, thermal couple additions, changes that can be made easier now that the engine is out. We are all here with you Peter if you need us$$$ I know funds have to be running low so let us know if you need some more help. Cheers Peter we’re all rooting for your success with your Raptor Aircraft!!! You’re the Man!
I am hoping that you will take this opportunity to swap out the coolant radiator for a thicker/larger version as you had expressed earlier... ?
Was a study made see if all the complications were worth using this engine?
I think there is too much to go wrong!
My hero...a living legend you are Pete!!!
Make sure to clean out the oil cooler and lines before hooking up to the new engine. They may have metal in them.
Will you be taking this opportunity to put in the larger radiator you've been thinking about doing?
Static stability is not there watching all your videos , its looks very unstable inflight . A car engine just may not work , Im thinking you will eventually end up with a lycoming ,or continental motor
Going cold turkey here Peter, what news from 'dostah??
I’m impressed with your tenacity! Keep up the great work!
How much would a new engine cost vs the used one your getting?
Coming along 👍
Sooo, are you gonna keep the og engine and rebuild?
Crazy adventure
Glad to be here
I doubt it when he sees that crank .
Amazing amount of work done in a very short time. You are a very hard worker. Any chance that you will rebuild this engine? It might be nice to have a hot swappable spare engine for future testing. BTW what is the exact AUDI engine that you are using?
'hot swappable' definitely does not apply here. A spare might be good tho
Ask around the field, you may be able to borrow an engine stand from someone for a week or two.
So many comments on here trying to help out. Very little I can add to this other than the " New Motor " sounds like one pulled from a wreck and bolted in.
There is brave pilots and there's old pilots there's bugger all old brave pilots
I am very interested to hear what you find when you tear the original engine down.
I don't know much about the Audi engine but I know that in the Cummins in my Dodge Ram, there are oil nozzles that spray oil at the bottom of the pistons to cool them. Does the Audi engine have them? If not, did the installation of the windage tray in any way affect the supply of oil to the bottom of its pistons? If it did, that could explain the failure of that piston :-(
Keep at it Peter. Good time to fix little mods. Maybe a bigger radiator?
Your tenacity, amazing as always. you have been mentioning a larger radiator for the last few flights, now that you have everything apart, it might be time to consider the option of installing it.
There's no room for a larger radiator with the current configuration.
For whatever it’s worth: my aircraft’s engine makes 350 HP. It is a gasoline burner, so less efficient than a diesel. The size of the coolant radiator is approx 10 x 9 inches, thickness 3.5 inches. It is installed standalone with inlet expansion duct and a depression outlet. It works very well until ISA+10. I believe that aircraft radiators do not like fans attached to them. The best practice is to create a pressure differential across the radiator by purely aerodynamic means.
I'd have to find out how a single turbo, on each bank would work . Yes, total pressure would be lower, but you would pick up quite a bit from reduced drive pressure, which I don't belive you have measured yet ; however I don't know if power would be enough for 25 thosand feet . And also greatly reduced heat generation .
Somebody do the math, please, well the probable math . It's not the same as a mechanical supercharger . So, 40 pounds would be no problem at sea level, for a single, not compounded, on each bank .
@@rustyshackleford7022 no problem for a single each bank, @ sea level . So, asking somebody with experience how that might be @ fl-250 ?
@@rv6ejguy well, I have a back up plan, to reduce drive pressure, lower heat generation, especially piston heat, which will greatly reduce oil temp, and make enough power . Just dump the exhaust out each side, also getting rid of much plumbing, and compounding the intake side only .
@@rv6ejguy ,,, I am talking staging the intakes, ( only ) . Not gonna say you are wrong, but I've seen the turbocharger experts, superceded many times over the years . My Diesel makes 35 pounds at sea level, with a 21 year old system, with the exhaust system that looks like 19th century pumbers designed it . Dammit, I've had it to 11 thousand foot but don't remember what it made , but the engine was very quiet, lol .
@@rv6ejguy You don't need compound turbos you just need a different, larger turbo. Also you don't need necessarily need to make sea level HP at FL.1) The airframe might not even be able to handle those speeds. 2) The engine hasn't been tuned properly so most likely a simple tune would get him a lot more power
Weh you swap engines will they let you know what exactly was broken or worn ?
Peter, you've sure got your hands full but I'm wondering if now's the time to install a bigger radiator?
When you initally installed the redrive you had issues keeping the belt centered. Are you able to make the
tensioner slightly concave to keep- the belt centered?
You also had difficulty with no backup for the ECU. Is it possible to have two ECU products connected to the same end points, but with their leads going through a mujlti-port t wo position rotary swiitch?
Fingers crossed that your new engine is in good shape!
Have we checked the oil filter for metal?
some great progress there Pete
do you think you might attempt an engine rebuild after you have installed the replacement - as you have your engine rig
you could be testing that in between flights (if n when pos, i know your busy) i also wonder if you might try and get your pistons Teflon (ceramic coated) this can reduce wear and tear plus reduce engine head heat transferring through pistons to crank oil - can have up to a 40% reduction in oil temp, could be useful, and maybe worth testing on engine one, obviously i know its down to cost and time etc, might be worth investigating, its not something i have yet done, but i have have done a little research
i left a previous comment else where on a previous video with links to an Australian company that does it, but i can locate again if your interested, also companies in US, a chap building his own Race cars has a company in same street
Great progress. Just a thought.. Why not use the original cooler away from inside the motor to start? Wouldn't that be cooler?
What about the ailerons throw ? Shouldn't you adjust it ?
What is the total cost of one of these engines as set up for the plane?
Hi Peter. Does that Q7 engine have timing belts for the cams or does it have internal gears or chains?
The inlet valve camshafts are driven by complex roller chains and the inlet camshafts are linked to the exhaust camshafts by gears.
@@JonckVideos great stuff. Was just wondering about the reliability of the engine if it had belts. Wonder why it threw a conrod?
@@rustyshackleford7022 yeah I didn't watch the previous video before I posted. It all made sense once I did 👍
This is an incredible project and you’re doing a fantastic job. My personal experience with Audi and VW engines are such that I would never pick that manufacturer for an aviation application, but that’s just me, your mileage may vary. Good luck!
Totally agree. I'm in this for the airframe...I will not be using an Audi engine in it when it comes available to the public. I've owned an Audi once...once!
Seems like you and Wintergatan are in the same predicament, working hard to finish up a project.
Martin is doing it depth-first, without ever yet creating a fully functioning machine. Instead, I have recommended that he do it the way Peter is, finishing a first draft and then working on the parts that need work. In the meantime, he and his band could be learning how the actual musical instrument sounds and preparing their parts. I have lots of suggestions for Wintergatan, but none at all for Peter. Onward and upwards.
The temperature sensor showed in minute 3:57 don't senses the real temperature of the engine, because is to high and don't touch the water, because the housing can accumulate air or steam.
It's nice to see what it's gonna take to do an engine overhaul! : D
Good luck. Shipping has been all over the board for me and others. For the production machine, would it make sense to make the rear frame assembly removable?
Super awesome!!
Its a good time to check all the removed parts for cracks etc.
The engine mounts too?
I wish you all the best, Peter. Your tenacity knows no bounds.
great job peter. way to hang in there. LKQ- great guys. they have a HUGE one near me in stockton, CA. saw the comments about the storm. ruh-roh! forgot didn't think about that. hope you get your parts soon. (fingers & toes crossed!)
Red A03 would be perfect
Can't you take your bad engine block and go to Audi and get a brand new core? That wasn't an option back then but now it is as you have one. It'll cost more but save you potential trouble with another used engine with unknown history / accident.
Peter, I don't know if you had a chance to see, but there were some mechanics on here explaining how the first turbo needs to be bigger than the second turbo. There needs to be at least twice as much air flow I think if I remember correctly. Have you considered that possibility?
LS3 swap and call it a day. No clunky turbos, MOGAS is cheaper and your cooling issue is resolved.
The LS3 would be more powerful at sea level, but will lose power faster than a turbo as altitude is gained. Above 10,000 feet, the turbo should be making more power if it can stay cool at those altitudes.
@Shawn Huffman Yes you could, but the turbodiesel is there for efficiency as well as power. Superchargers are parasites, consuming power that could other wise be used for propulsion reducing powertrain efficiency. They are always being driven, even when not producing boost. It also adds weight which is already a big problem with this aircraft.
You can always single turbo an ls. I think gm even sells a crate version designed for boost based on the supercharged corvettes
install a 1.8T. :).
only half the problems( turbos , exhausts , cooling) and servicing than a V.
Just a small point on Circlip for redrive. Are you aware that circlip's have a load/non load side. There is a minor radius on the no load side, often hard to see. Square end is load side.
Thanks for great videos, sorry you lunched engine, that's not cool. Best, Ian
You're the only person i know of, other than one lad i worked for, that knows this. The way i was told was that the circlip holes are punched out and because of this, they are slightly tapered. This helps the points of the pliers grip one way but helps it slip out the other way.
I hadn't considered the whole circlip!
I'll make sure to talk with the apprentice in work on this so we can both learn!
Thanks!
Tha ks for the update, i gusses during the engine replacement , it's a chance to look for any issues, needed the engine to be uninstalled to vet done, I'll be tuning for the coming update, finger crossed.
i would have given up by now, well done!
Can we have a tour of the engine bay in the aircraft Pete?
Are you going to go to a different hydraulic system that is dedicated to the prop. No more engine losses!!!
Are you finally going to use a real aircraft engine.?
Not sure I understand why you have to push a Diesel engine so hard. Max torque is less than 2,000 rpms. Why can’t the engine / prop be 1 to 1? No need to run at 3800 rpms with that kind of torque and running twin turbos but not compounded. I am sure there is a reason but would love to hear why the engine / prop and turbos are setup this way?
Get rid of the diesel and chuck a LS3 in there
LS-3 rulez.
@@jukkatakamaa7274 The Audi engine was a good idea but not for a homebuild, to much research and development for one man.
Well done, well understood... carry on!
What is the reason to make the Engine Swap?
juanargentum , see Last video control damaged due no oil
hey Peter, while you're at it maybe install a bigger coolant radiator and if possible delete the oil to coolant heat exchanger and have a bigger oil cooler,. Long shot but maybe you should also consider separating the engine oil system from the prop governor and have that as an independent loop with its own tank. Not sure how feasible all this is but since you've taken it apart is as good of time as any to improve your cooling.
With all that happened I'm glad to see you're in good spirit and getting it back in shape for more flying, can't wait to see it in the air again.
Dope
This video is very, very important.....because it gives us the real insight of "ease" engine swap with $5,000 new engine.
Now we are comparing Audi engine to $45,000 Lycoming engine.
I'm glad I'm watching this Raptor Aircraft videos for nearly 2 years..as it helps me understand better on dealing with Raptor aircraft.
It’s the plan Demic.
why would a brand new engine , with maybe 20hrs running ? , chuck a rod ? any warranty ?
Running it dry of oil will do that.
Good excuse to upgrade your power. A corvet 700 HP Chevy V8 is prob the most compact lightest V8 available. Short take offs, turboprop type climb and high true airspeed! Speed sells!
Imaging climbing at VNE!(never exceed speed)...everyone and their brother would want one!
Honestly I wasn't impressed with her climb performance with one aboard and wondered how she would climb on a hot day at MTOW(Max Take-Off Weight)
@@robertlafnear4865 why LS3? LT are more economical and have more low rpm power I believe
@@robertlafnear4865 czcams.com/video/EDq97DMU-lM/video.html
czcams.com/video/Ks0Y0-w5Kds/video.html
@@robertlafnear4865 how much does the v6 Turbo Diesel in the Raptor weigh? What power does it produce?
Like my dad used to tell me, if at first you don't succeed, give up.
I would definitely flush all the oil feed lines for the turbos and redrive. Little bits of metal have gone trough them! I would hate to see you put another motor on just to get trashed by metal flakes. Good luck with the reinstall..
just read the peanut gallery!!! hilarious!!! some good questions about the old engine, rebuild, thrashed? obviously you would clean out all oil lines. So far so good, cooling could be rethought now that all is out, how about a straight 180 degree thermostat? More cooling for the oil and there you go!!, Your adaptations to problems is impressive!!! good thinking. Isn't it amazing how much time it takes to disassemble and reassemble an engine!!! Well, sit down, relax, rethink, and go with your gut!!! Stay on it!!! 100,000,000 attabits!!!
😁
So sorry to hear you got sucked into LKQ's vortex of BS, lies, and general douchery. (This post was too long, so I cut it down to this.) I had 2 warranty claims. They fought the second claim, because it was on a warranty replacement engine AND it happened a couple months after the warranty on the original engine expired. Still had just under half the warranty miles left. But I timed out. Because TWO of their engines failed. Very expensive lesson, and my Jeep was in the shop for 11 months.
And that's the short version.
My condolences. I respectfully recommend Jasper in the future. Excellent reputation. My attempt to save some money cost me $1500 more than the Jasper would have cost. And the year....
Peter...its really great that you are putting these videos up for the fans and distractors to follow, but how to you put up with so many arm chair experts. Why don't you just put the plane together and then put it out for public consumption. Sink or swim....it would result it a lot fewer frustrations and distractions for you.
how do the words of Edison go? I didn't fail1,000 times. The light bulb was an invention with 1,000 steps." "Great success is built on failure, seems really far back for the pitot static, usually they are mounted on wings or near the nose where there is cleaner air flow. just wondering why that location
Hope everything is going well. This is the longest time I've gone without Raptor's videos.
We/I need a new video. Lol.
I am worried you aren't getting enough advice. Ignore them all. It's your show. Play it like you want to.
hey folks just wait for the next ep... lest we have other click bait. raptor mi ol' mate have you heard of vocal inclination.... seriously ya sound flat, dull, c'mon mi aussie be enthusiastic. ya sound as interesting as s eating boot leather. i
i just want you to have lots of subs
There are about 500 million channels you can go check out if you want entertainment. This is informative. Heck - check me out on CZcams. I've got 100's of thousands of views on my music videos I play on. That's meant for entertainment :)
Your formatting and writing are about as interesting as watching paint dry. Try again.
With all he has on his hands, mind full of all before him, know the effects. Give him room.