Good find. I wish I still had the link to the photos of the aging wiring harness on the Space Shuttles. There were tons of places where the harness would rub against bolts and sharp corners. There were several instances where wires were not fully inserted into terminals, re bad crimps, etc. It's still amazing that hair thin wires are expected to last 20 years (or not?) During my airplane days, whenever there was an electric problem, it was almost always at the connections.
Nice find! I harvest pigtails on used engines and other things when I can, to use pins or whole connectors whenever I need them. I got three big Tupperware containers of pigtails I’ve saved through the years.
Nice find! We’ve been having an issue with my mothers 2014 Escape where it seems like the tailgate just became weak and had intermittent issues. It sometimes wouldn’t fully latch or when it opened it just felt like it was struggling. When you hit the release button, it would sound like it wants to open but wouldn’t actually open. The dealer told her it was her remote battery 🙃… even though it still tried to function and wouldn’t make a difference if you pushed the car button or the remote. The beeping sounds quieter than it used to be. I pulled the controller apart to check all the solder connections and resoldered some questionable points. When reinstalled, it seems to be working again but it’s an intermittent issue, so might still be faulty. I feel like it’s working more consistently, but still seems to lack power and the beeping is very quiet. I’ve always wondered if it was a bad ground or connection… might have to take a look at the harness next time when I pull it apart to replace the intermittent back up camera! Too many intermittent issues with this car!
just finally found the problem plaguing this one vehicle after a week of going through pinpoint tests and other tests. f-150 came in for a intermittent no start no crank, but it would start when first entering and then loose pcm if you tried to restart with out opening the front doors. it all stemmed from the passenger rear door harness got pinched and it didn't sever the data wires but it did break the wires going to the rear headed seat. it would cause either a power on the data or a ground and cause only the pcm to be kicked off the network.
Sly Stallone said it best on Demolition Man "put me back in the fridge". Good find man..... I know for sure how frustrating electrical demons can be. I've had some that took 4 days to find a 5min fix.
I had a weird intermittent run problem on a car, can't remember the code now. I checked the involved sensor(s), actuators, wiring and connectors involved. Everything checks out, decide it must be the computer. It was running well so took a test drive, first bump I hit the car died. I tried spraying canned air to chill the CPU, no change. It finally decided to start. ,Aggravated I thump the case on the CPU and it died again. It was just one solder joint that broke loose inside on the board.
There was a period that they didn't use lead anymore for solder and other connections = you got these "tin whiskers" in devices like Playstation. Or just brittle connections = I think they use more nickel now.
@@jonmccormick8683 lead is the easiest to solder with. We used to use "silver solder". Not sure what that actual composition is, but I'm sure there were other metals. You could Google it if you want to.
Just found this video through a Google search. I have a 2016 Ford edge where the back hatch will not open every time. It seems like if I drive it around for a while and then stop and then open the hatch it will open. But if I close it and try to re-open it, it won’t open. You can hear the motor is trying to engage the lift, but the latch is not releasing. I also hear an error tone coming from the speakers. Also, when I close the hatch, I don’t hear the click that I normally hear that sounds like an electronic latch closing down. I’m hoping that this is the same issue. I’ll dig into it over the weekend.
Hey, I'm having the same issue on my 17 Edge and can't seem to get the gate open. How did you get it open prior to fixing the wire connection? Or did you make the connection and then open the gate? Thx for your help!!
I almost bought a buyback lemon 2018 Lincoln MKX(same platform) with a similar problem, and that was the main reason it was bought back. The trunk was working at the time I was at the dealer. All the warranty paperwork showed only component replacement and still failure to operate properly once returned to customer. Also, the customer said the lid would occasionally open itself, and drain the battery. Might have been the same problem.
This happened to me about two weeks ago with my 2015 Edge. I have an intermittenly non-functioning tailgate lift. Then one day I went to start it and the battery was drained. I was about to replace the lift actuator before I found this video.
Holy crap I had a dead battery about two months ago as well. It seem like the electronics stayed on for a while after turning it off. I replaced the battery thought maybe the low battery was creating an issue because it was an older battery and near end of life. But that didn’t fix it it as it happened again. Then I was told I need to do a 30 minute power down and that seem to have fixed it at least to the point where I didn’t have a dead battery anymore but now I’m wondering if this is really the root cause of my issues I’ve been having.
Kudos on the vids! Having a problem with the back liftgate on my 2015 Edge. Sometimes it seems like the passenger side doesn't want to work at all. The middle latch releases and the driver side motor tries but the passenger side stays still quite firmly. This has caused the battery to drain multiple times for some reason and cost $300 to get the PCM reset because "it lost it's programming". Typical of the local dealership here in Huntsville AL they reset the PCM and did not address the issue that caused it to reset. I have read that the RTGM may need a software update and I have also considered the actuator motor to be going bad but I have not considered this. Do you think this is worth looking into in my case or does it sound more like a separate issue?
What would I find that happens more than anything is one shock you have a motor built into the shock and the other shock is a regular just hydraulic shock and the hydraulic shock on the passenger side ends up wearing out and it doesn't help the driver side lift the trunk gate anymore because it's worn and then it causes the driver side motor to go bad so make sure that that passenger side liftgate shock that doesn't have the motor in it is actually good and can spring back properly
@@FordBossMe thanks! I'll have to check that shock. I know a fair bit about electrical motors and I think the motor may be worn to where it just won't engage if it stops in a certain point in rotation, similar to a bad starter, but I hadn't considered the shock being the cause of the failure. For now I've just removed the fuse for the liftgate module so that we don't have to worry about killing the battery and paying to have the PCM reprogrammed again.
VERY curious if that is from factory install or messed with by someone else in between factory and you getting it... Thought: If it did happen on original assembly at the factory, then it was unfortunate that it wasn't caught while in a fail mode.
you also have to consider the fact of terminal fretting and Arcking eventually those pins are going to get smaller and smaller and smaller and they're not going to make connection anymore if they never made good connection from the beginning
@@FordBossMe I'm trying to figure out what happened to that terminal in the close-up, hard to tell exactly what happened from video/picture. Since you didn't locate any missing pieces (that may be too small to locate, lol), maybe the 3rd party wiring harness supplier broke it when crimping it or inserting it into the connector. Otherwise could be someone has been playing around with that connector.
The trunk door nearly decapitaded me. I opened it place some bags in the trunk and the door closed in the back of my neck. I hurt so much going to the doctor for some tests. I have had only nightmares with this car.
Imbedded code makes it really tough to diagnose. Even tho mfrs give you a troubleshooting flowchart, one is usually left in the dark as to how the computer processes the inputs/outputs and what happens when one (internal) step is missing. I've fixed a ton of washing machines that click and click and do nothing else. What I discovered is that the computer is looking for a lever to be in a certain position before start. I guess no one thought to put in a code to tell it to stop after x tries. The Boeing 737 crashes is another example of bad code.
People like the trunk openers on their keyfobs. =You approach the vehicle, pop the trunk/hatch while approaching and throw the bags you are holding in. They have had these for at least 20yrs.
@@jonmccormick8683 one more thing to screw up. Another reason I don’t buy new cars. Besides being overpriced and full of safety crap that is also a waste of money. Remote start, heated seat, backup camera, cruise control, infotainment center, touchscreens. You can have all of it. I just want transportation. All my stuff runs and drives fine without any of it and its easy to repair.
hell yeah bro and thats why your a great tech because the regs diag stuff leading you down the rabbit hole but just by puttin and eye on everything you found it!!!! great job bro Really impressive!!!! I know a guy that would probably call it as a bad PCM LOL #provehymwrong
MY 2002 focus has intermittent hatch ajar light on dash though it is closed. Replaced latch assembly , adjusted striker , seems better but not 100% Friend is mechanic W/bidirectional scanners and such. Would there be a code showing ? a B code ? Is a scanner helpful in this situation ?
Ford quality wiring MADE IN CHINA.I have fixed quite a few problems like this as time goes on it is getting worse.Years ago I never saw a wiring issues on vehicles until they got about 8 or 10 years old.
Pinpoint tests and flowcharts won’t tell you the connector pin is fucked up, good find!!
I hate intermittent anything, Because it can be SUCH a waste of time, Even if you're the best at what you do❗👍
Edge coming back with issues, what a surprise.
It amazing what a smart mechanic can figure out. Great video, thanks!
Good find. I wish I still had the link to the photos of the aging wiring harness on the Space Shuttles. There were tons of places where the harness would rub against bolts and sharp corners. There were several instances where wires were not fully inserted into terminals, re bad crimps, etc. It's still amazing that hair thin wires are expected to last 20 years (or not?) During my airplane days, whenever there was an electric problem, it was almost always at the connections.
Still the same today, terminal fretting
That kind of stuff will drive you crazy sometimes. Good for you tracking it down like a Bloodhound!
Tyvm
Nice find! I harvest pigtails on used engines and other things when I can, to use pins or whole connectors whenever I need them. I got three big Tupperware containers of pigtails I’ve saved through the years.
The Edge is getting to be like a bad break up 😂 Just comes back around. In seriousness, appreciate this!
Nice find! We’ve been having an issue with my mothers 2014 Escape where it seems like the tailgate just became weak and had intermittent issues. It sometimes wouldn’t fully latch or when it opened it just felt like it was struggling. When you hit the release button, it would sound like it wants to open but wouldn’t actually open. The dealer told her it was her remote battery 🙃… even though it still tried to function and wouldn’t make a difference if you pushed the car button or the remote.
The beeping sounds quieter than it used to be. I pulled the controller apart to check all the solder connections and resoldered some questionable points. When reinstalled, it seems to be working again but it’s an intermittent issue, so might still be faulty. I feel like it’s working more consistently, but still seems to lack power and the beeping is very quiet.
I’ve always wondered if it was a bad ground or connection… might have to take a look at the harness next time when I pull it apart to replace the intermittent back up camera! Too many intermittent issues with this car!
just finally found the problem plaguing this one vehicle after a week of going through pinpoint tests and other tests. f-150 came in for a intermittent no start no crank, but it would start when first entering and then loose pcm if you tried to restart with out opening the front doors. it all stemmed from the passenger rear door harness got pinched and it didn't sever the data wires but it did break the wires going to the rear headed seat. it would cause either a power on the data or a ground and cause only the pcm to be kicked off the network.
Dang
Dude you are the BOSS! Best automotive tech on CZcams, HANDS DOWN🏴☠️🏁
I'm just trying to fit in brother, just be a positive member of a TEAM
Mechanics who care
Been there and done that several times in the past few years,I even found a few that were strangely corroded
@Ford Boss Me - something to consider if you need some more content. I would imagine it would do pretty good.
Sly Stallone said it best on Demolition Man "put me back in the fridge".
Good find man..... I know for sure how frustrating electrical demons can be. I've had some that took 4 days to find a 5min fix.
Yep sucks but we grind it out and become more educated for sure
Great job man! Kilmer would have just whined how it was an American car and sabotaged it so it would catch on fire and he wouldn't have to fix it.
I had a weird intermittent run problem on a car, can't remember the code now. I checked the involved sensor(s), actuators, wiring and connectors involved. Everything checks out, decide it must be the computer. It was running well so took a test drive, first bump I hit the car died. I tried spraying canned air to chill the CPU, no change. It finally decided to start. ,Aggravated I thump the case on the CPU and it died again. It was just one solder joint that broke loose inside on the board.
There was a period that they didn't use lead anymore for solder and other connections = you got these "tin whiskers" in devices like Playstation. Or just brittle connections = I think they use more nickel now.
@@jonmccormick8683 lead is the easiest to solder with. We used to use "silver solder". Not sure what that actual composition is, but I'm sure there were other metals. You could Google it if you want to.
I wonder if Ford and Chevy manufacturers are documenting your resolutions. These vids are pure gold.
They don't care
Just found this video through a Google search. I have a 2016 Ford edge where the back hatch will not open every time. It seems like if I drive it around for a while and then stop and then open the hatch it will open. But if I close it and try to re-open it, it won’t open. You can hear the motor is trying to engage the lift, but the latch is not releasing. I also hear an error tone coming from the speakers. Also, when I close the hatch, I don’t hear the click that I normally hear that sounds like an electronic latch closing down. I’m hoping that this is the same issue. I’ll dig into it over the weekend.
Wonder if that was a factory thing or if someone tried to do something with the stereo at one point and broke the connector.
It could have been when they were plugging everything in from the factory that maybe they just crammed it in the hole and it broke part of the PIN
Great video
Tyvm
Hey, I'm having the same issue on my 17 Edge and can't seem to get the gate open. How did you get it open prior to fixing the wire connection? Or did you make the connection and then open the gate? Thx for your help!!
Always check the library brother, I've done the work
czcams.com/video/Rsuyn4aiO38/video.html
Checkout the AESwaves uTest kit. I use it pretty much every day to check pin fitment
Hi,what do you think?arnes Factory defective?I have a similar problem in GMC terminal like that
I don't really see what else it could be
I almost bought a buyback lemon 2018 Lincoln MKX(same platform) with a similar problem, and that was the main reason it was bought back. The trunk was working at the time I was at the dealer. All the warranty paperwork showed only component replacement and still failure to operate properly once returned to customer. Also, the customer said the lid would occasionally open itself, and drain the battery. Might have been the same problem.
This happened to me about two weeks ago with my 2015 Edge. I have an intermittenly non-functioning tailgate lift. Then one day I went to start it and the battery was drained. I was about to replace the lift actuator before I found this video.
Holy crap I had a dead battery about two months ago as well. It seem like the electronics stayed on for a while after turning it off. I replaced the battery thought maybe the low battery was creating an issue because it was an older battery and near end of life. But that didn’t fix it it as it happened again. Then I was told I need to do a 30 minute power down and that seem to have fixed it at least to the point where I didn’t have a dead battery anymore but now I’m wondering if this is really the root cause of my issues I’ve been having.
Kudos on the vids! Having a problem with the back liftgate on my 2015 Edge. Sometimes it seems like the passenger side doesn't want to work at all. The middle latch releases and the driver side motor tries but the passenger side stays still quite firmly. This has caused the battery to drain multiple times for some reason and cost $300 to get the PCM reset because "it lost it's programming". Typical of the local dealership here in Huntsville AL they reset the PCM and did not address the issue that caused it to reset. I have read that the RTGM may need a software update and I have also considered the actuator motor to be going bad but I have not considered this. Do you think this is worth looking into in my case or does it sound more like a separate issue?
What would I find that happens more than anything is one shock you have a motor built into the shock and the other shock is a regular just hydraulic shock and the hydraulic shock on the passenger side ends up wearing out and it doesn't help the driver side lift the trunk gate anymore because it's worn and then it causes the driver side motor to go bad so make sure that that passenger side liftgate shock that doesn't have the motor in it is actually good and can spring back properly
@@FordBossMe thanks! I'll have to check that shock. I know a fair bit about electrical motors and I think the motor may be worn to where it just won't engage if it stops in a certain point in rotation, similar to a bad starter, but I hadn't considered the shock being the cause of the failure. For now I've just removed the fuse for the liftgate module so that we don't have to worry about killing the battery and paying to have the PCM reprogrammed again.
My 2018 wont release even after pressing the inside safety release. Whats next to get the hatch open. The dash says its open too. But wont budge
Unfortunately a mechanic needs to get in there
Great find. I see this on Polaris rzr harness’s also.
VERY curious if that is from factory install or messed with by someone else in between factory and you getting it...
Thought: If it did happen on original assembly at the factory, then it was unfortunate that it wasn't caught while in a fail mode.
you also have to consider the fact of terminal fretting and Arcking
eventually those pins are going to get smaller and smaller and smaller and they're not going to make connection anymore if they never made good connection from the beginning
@@FordBossMe I'm trying to figure out what happened to that terminal in the close-up, hard to tell exactly what happened from video/picture. Since you didn't locate any missing pieces (that may be too small to locate, lol), maybe the 3rd party wiring harness supplier broke it when crimping it or inserting it into the connector. Otherwise could be someone has been playing around with that connector.
The trunk door nearly decapitaded me.
I opened it place some bags in the trunk and the door closed in the back of my neck. I hurt so much going to the doctor for some tests.
I have had only nightmares with this car.
I'm so sorry
Damn. Good troubleshooting!
Tyvm
Imbedded code makes it really tough to diagnose. Even tho mfrs give you a troubleshooting flowchart, one is usually left in the dark as to how the computer processes the inputs/outputs and what happens when one (internal) step is missing. I've fixed a ton of washing machines that click and click and do nothing else. What I discovered is that the computer is looking for a lever to be in a certain position before start. I guess no one thought to put in a code to tell it to stop after x tries. The Boeing 737 crashes is another example of bad code.
It's a nightmare when things are missing but those who don't give up eventually succeed
The biggest prob there is the audio module controlling the lift gate "trunk " my question would be why ?
No, lol
The audio module is bolted above it the rgtm is under it
You're good at your job brother, real good
Tyvm
I have this same problem on my 2017 ford edge! Intermittently it will not open. Trying to find someone that can fix it for me
I'm in Chicago Brighton Auto
Awesome find!
Better to have just a keyhole and a handle. A module just to open the trunk? What an overkill. Unnecessary.
People like the trunk openers on their keyfobs. =You approach the vehicle, pop the trunk/hatch while approaching and throw the bags you are holding in. They have had these for at least 20yrs.
@@jonmccormick8683 one more thing to screw up. Another reason I don’t buy new cars. Besides being overpriced and full of safety crap that is also a waste of money. Remote start, heated seat, backup camera, cruise control, infotainment center, touchscreens. You can have all of it. I just want transportation. All my stuff runs and drives fine without any of it and its easy to repair.
hell yeah bro and thats why your a great tech because the regs diag stuff leading you down the rabbit hole but just by puttin and eye on everything you found it!!!! great job bro Really impressive!!!! I know a guy that would probably call it as a bad PCM LOL #provehymwrong
#provehymwrong
Nice fix! Well done!
Tyvm
That’s when you go TADA!
Shop; “That’ll be $875 sir.”
Customer; “You’re gonna charge me?”
Manufacturer; “warranty pays .4, thanks though.”
My daughter and son in law have an old Ford Edge... with 213,000 miles. Country miles.
They are great vehicles and the old ones were tanks and very reliable
I feel that few techs would take the time as you do to actually ( FIX ) the problem ! Good job !
It took a long time to find
I have ford escape SE the trunk not closed
You got to give me more information than this you're almost telling me nothing
MY 2002 focus has intermittent hatch ajar light on dash though it is closed. Replaced latch assembly , adjusted striker , seems better but not 100%
Friend is mechanic W/bidirectional scanners and such. Would there be a code showing ? a B code ? Is a scanner helpful in this situation ?
B1452 somewhere around that
Yeah i replaced latch but still.acting you will check turminals next
Nice work !!!
Tyvm
😎 👍🏾
Does it apply to 2013 ford edge?
Maybe some of the same concept but not really
@@FordBossMe could you help with a link cuz I've been this nightmare for a while now and your vid is the closest I've got.
👍👍👍👍
Electrons do weird things.
Hopefully that labor is on Ford’s dime.
It is
Fix Or Repair Daily quality has gone down for sure
Are we ever going to be positive at all? Or is every comment going to be negative?
Asking for a friend
Ford quality wiring MADE IN CHINA.I have fixed quite a few problems like this as time goes on it is getting worse.Years ago I never saw a wiring issues on vehicles until they got about 8 or 10 years old.