OMG I coated a bunch of screws with 90-minute quickset like 3 days ago. Fortunately, I'm a noob so I sanded my screws before each coat, and final coat was AP mud, but holy cow this is timely. My heart sank when you held up that bag in the beginning. LOL.
Ben, I have not dealt with that worst case scenario you described. However, this is probably because as of right now I just recently worked up the confidence to try messing around with durabond for the first time, and I happened upon this video before I got around to putting the second coat on my screws. I am about to go out to the garage and start scraping right now. Thank you for once again saving my ass. PS you have been my Yoda in regards to drywall. A year and a half ago I had never touched a sheet of drywall. When the time finally came when I needed to figure it out, I found your videos. Now I feel fairly confident that I could do an entire house from hanging to finishing and even priming for paint, thanks to your video on that. Thanks so much for all your help. Love the channel.
A bit of Dex is a great fix for the imperfections after a coat of primer. But yes, if using 90 on the first coat they have to be scraped and or sanded before premix coats. Also, you need to put out more skate vids too! Cheers!
Thankyou so much for your videos! I was trying to hire someone to do my drywall repairs and finally gave up. After watching you, I figured I could do it myself and it would probably be a better job because I'm going to care more about my home. It took about a month, but I got it done! It's beautiful. I'm going through my home doing more home improvements and I'll be checking you out. Thanks again!
Thanks for being my drywall coach! I've got pretty good for a generalist handyman, but one thing endlessly frustrating for me is trying to match texture on a repair job. If you haven't already made a video on that, maybe a topic to consider for the future.
@@tcoiler buy a wide push scraper on a pole it comes down really easy if it's just the small popcorn ceiling can't say the same thing about the icicle looking texture ceilings made with plaster lol.
Hey, from south Alabama. On small jobs yes I use quick setting mud, and I have noticed this for a long time now. I still like your videos. I have just started my own hanging and finishing business. I know how I want it to look. I also enjoy watching how you do it as well. Keep up the good work sir. Your good!
Hi Ben. Thank you so much for your recent reply to my question if AP mud is ok to use for pre-fill, covering screws and taping joints. I have lots of time to let it dry. FYI, I’m Canadian from Vancouver living in Japan for over 10 years. I’m doing renovations now in preparation to sell my house, so I can return to Canada! Your videos are very helpful! I like your easy-to-understand, detailed explanations on drywalling. Thank you!
😢this video brings a tear to my eye, 😂. Our drywall contractor used 90 to fill large voids, the house was riddled with nail pops but not in every room. I assume they used the excess speed 90 where the nail pops occurred. The punch out team patched, sanded and re-painted for days. Today, 17 years later I have a bathroom with nail pops that mud is very hard! Appreciate unraveling this mystery.
When doing first coat on screws with 90 quickset or any hot mud then you need to double wipe them. Durabond is not recommended as its non sandable . Double wipe quick up then down motion. No bumps! Deeper holes bumps a bit. Pro advice no charge 😁
i always used easy sand 90 for taping. I did a no-heat house in winter and mixed the Plus3 with Easy Sand for the finish work because the premix would've never dried out. Helped it kick off and set up so I could follow up the next day with the next coat.
Thanks for saying that you use quick set only to save time, I have a small job in my basement with some screws but time is not a major factor, I have both SheetRock 90 as well as a light weight general purpose mud. What I get from this video is I might as well just do the screws with the general purpose and use the SheetRock 90 for big gaps. Thx Ben
When im at a really fast job and they want it skim coated ready to sand the next day , I notice that it does poke out a bit after coating it with a 5 in knife. But I apply just a tad heavy set of regular mud over the bump without scraping with a 8 in. Making sure to get a fairly evenly spread all around the bump. Easy to sand next day whether it be with the sanding machine or just hand sanding with a block seems to work for me every time
Well, I just used Durabond 90 (with glue, because of you) to tape and cover all the screws of a large job in my house. Lots of joints with some being a little wide, so packed them full of durabond before the tape over top. I used Fibafuse for the tape. I will let you know what happens on the next coats with normal air dry mud :)
I have a request for another video. How do you decide how much to charge the customer for this work? Do the different jobs pay different prices, hanging drywall, putting on mud, painting, sanding etc? Do you guess how many hours it will take to do or do you calculate the square footage? If there are people with different levels of experience on your team do they get paid less, if the customer is rich do you charge more? Those are my off topic questions. Thanks I know its can be a taboo question and some people might be shy about discussing it but why work if you arent getting paid properly?
It's been a year since this video came out, but when I coat the 1st coat of screws, I like to use easysand hot mud. I always wipe a 2nd time to avoid the swelling aspect. Once in awhile there will be a few that will still swell out, but when I go to apply my 2nd coat on screws, you noticed right away that the 2nd coat isn't smooth. So I scrape off the excess easy sand that's causing that, and continue with the 2nd coat, and on to the third. Iv never had any issues that I'm aware of this effecting a finished job. But Iv also never, to my knowledge, let a swollen screw coat stay beyond the 2nd coat.
Plasterer from Australia here when we coat screws with base coat (setting mud) when you apply your first coat onto screws you put it on and then wipe it off one way then the other way which pushes it into the hole better then it won't swell (create a nipple)
When I am repeating myself the video is over… “feather that edge” 🤣😂🤣😂. Thanks for the great information. I wonder how much humidity plays a role because I think that reno job was spring early summer if I remember correctly (more humid) vs mid october ( pretty dry)
That explains some things on the repairs I made. What was real frustrating, the ones AI didn't notice, actually swelled more after I painted. Note, don't use Valspar paint, it actually softened the dried mud and created an air bubble, not just over screws.
Durabond is much harder than regular quickset. It’s impossible to sand. It’s intended for pre filling joints. But it does have enough adhesive in it to tape with.
Can't believe I've spent several HOURS watching videos of a guy doing drywall. I've always avoided drywall like a single guy avoiding commitment. But after watching Ben I'm a little less afraid. I have hidden a damaged plaster ceiling for over 10 years but I have enough information now to at least attempt it. In the next six to eight months.
Ive always use durabond as 1st coat over screws..I just wipe it almost completely off with knife at almost 90 degrees ...then 1 or 2 coats of ap. Its not as fast as Ive seen some coat multiple screws with the side of a small knife but Ive had no problems.
I'm a taper and I've finished houses using 90 for first coat, if you do screws this way it's a must to make a habit of scraping before coating them again. Using quickset eliminates having to do a 3rd coat because as stated in your video it swells rather than shrink. Of course the cons to this is scraping but it takes two seconds. I'd say it's a fair tradeoff given that you can get away with a two coat finish. Noted that this video is intended for diyers, just throwing my 2 cents in !
My experience has been that Durobond shrinks rather than swells. It looks to me in the close up that the fill has saged leaving a belly that you've carved off.
Have had reasonable luck creating a barely perceptible "cup" below surface to take air-dry coats by wiping with a wet sanding sponge/drywall "sanding" sponge before completely set. Probably equivalent to sanding but it has been faster and allowed just a "minimal 'cupping'" to take the air-dry second coat.
I've seen a couple of your videos now where you mentioned adding glue to your mud but I can't recall seeing you do it on a video. Can you give me a quick description of adding glue or point me to one of videos where you show adding it?
I have a question for you Ben, I have run into this with regular all purpose mud. The only thing I can think of why this happened is that I framed new walls in a reno, went through the boarding, taping, mudding stage, primer, paint etc and find weeks or a couple months later that these raised screw bumps appear in some spots. Is this due to the framing shrinking in your opinion?
hey, I need your help my wall in the badroom look too bad please what is all I have to do and whats the materil i have to use to put ceramic on the badroom wall? please.
Definitely been burned by this when I have a newer guy coating and claiming that he sanded it tight .. left wondering why there are these little high spots.
Right. Many people think the two are interchangeable and refer to each as hot mud or durabond. They are NOT the same. Durabond is much harder and exhibits these problems. I try not to use either on screws.
Im having a problem where my screws are coated flush and when I primer the drywall it's like the mud has shrunk on every screw. First time seeing this, any thoughts?
I cannot find a video where you say how much glue to put into hot mud for screws. Maybe hot mud swelled because in the quick/n/dirty job spoken about there was too much glue? And should it also be said there are possibilities to get ridges if you foam block sand a hot mud pimple divot that dried sticking out.
Just preparing for my very first DIY home drywall job. Is there an advantage to using quick-set mud to fill screws and for pre-fill? Is it ok to just use all-purpose mud for screws and pre-fill?
Is Sheetrock 90 a hot mud? When/why would you use Durabond 90 instead of Sheetrock 90. I always thought that Durabond 90 was more structural but was completely unsandable?
I used to rent a house where they renovated the basement but you could easily tell that it was rushed. Many pores, out of place corner beams, and most of all the noticeable screw holes filled with durabond 😂
So if your coating each screw separately after 3 costs do you sand so it’s completely flush with only the screw hole visibly left with mud so it looks smooth?
Make a deal with you. I have a house in charleston sc You can come stay for free Just have to fix somethings. Nothing even crazy. But. Some ceiling work and places around light switches. So come have a vacation and. Fix.
I ALWAYS used sheetrock 20, 45 or 90 for first coat, mind you I'm not a full time taper, just did a bunch of renos, but I never had any problem getting a good finish
I like when the bumps are there, helps find the studs faster when I hang TVs !,😂😂😂😂
😂
Modern problems require modern solutions and a silver lining.
Ahhh
OMG I coated a bunch of screws with 90-minute quickset like 3 days ago. Fortunately, I'm a noob so I sanded my screws before each coat, and final coat was AP mud, but holy cow this is timely. My heart sank when you held up that bag in the beginning. LOL.
Hey Ben, you have helped me beyond words. Keep up the good work and the things you think are not much value - those vids are very very appreciated!
I like that you are humble and willing to go back and review content and update it. Can we get some more short videos they seem to be the Algorithm
Ben, I have not dealt with that worst case scenario you described. However, this is probably because as of right now I just recently worked up the confidence to try messing around with durabond for the first time, and I happened upon this video before I got around to putting the second coat on my screws. I am about to go out to the garage and start scraping right now. Thank you for once again saving my ass.
PS you have been my Yoda in regards to drywall. A year and a half ago I had never touched a sheet of drywall. When the time finally came when I needed to figure it out, I found your videos. Now I feel fairly confident that I could do an entire house from hanging to finishing and even priming for paint, thanks to your video on that. Thanks so much for all your help. Love the channel.
A bit of Dex is a great fix for the imperfections after a coat of primer. But yes, if using 90 on the first coat they have to be scraped and or sanded before premix coats. Also, you need to put out more skate vids too! Cheers!
Thankyou so much for your videos! I was trying to hire someone to do my drywall repairs and finally gave up. After watching you, I figured I could do it myself and it would probably be a better job because I'm going to care more about my home.
It took about a month, but I got it done! It's beautiful. I'm going through my home doing more home improvements and I'll be checking you out. Thanks again!
Thanks for being my drywall coach! I've got pretty good for a generalist handyman, but one thing endlessly frustrating for me is trying to match texture on a repair job. If you haven't already made a video on that, maybe a topic to consider for the future.
I second that! Winter weather is coming up, meaning indoor repair season.
Matching popcorn on a ceiling.
@@thezfunk Haha! Scraping that stuff off my ceilings is one of my plans. I'm going to start small and see how stupid it is.
@@tcoiler buy a wide push scraper on a pole it comes down really easy if it's just the small popcorn ceiling can't say the same thing about the icicle looking texture ceilings made with plaster lol.
@@MV-wb2cz Awesome, thanks! I have a 6" and 10" drywall knife, so can use them. Only where the cobwebs have gotten bad is it "icicle looking" 😀
Hey, from south Alabama. On small jobs yes I use quick setting mud, and I have noticed this for a long time now. I still like your videos. I have just started my own hanging and finishing business. I know how I want it to look. I also enjoy watching how you do it as well. Keep up the good work sir. Your good!
Hi Ben. Thank you so much for your recent reply to my question if AP mud is ok to use for pre-fill, covering screws and taping joints. I have lots of time to let it dry. FYI, I’m Canadian from Vancouver living in Japan for over 10 years. I’m doing renovations now in preparation to sell my house, so I can return to Canada! Your videos are very helpful! I like your easy-to-understand, detailed explanations on drywalling. Thank you!
😢this video brings a tear to my eye, 😂. Our drywall contractor used 90 to fill large voids, the house was riddled with nail pops but not in every room. I assume they used the excess speed 90 where the nail pops occurred. The punch out team patched, sanded and re-painted for days.
Today, 17 years later I have a bathroom with nail pops that mud is very hard! Appreciate unraveling this mystery.
I hope your project is going well, and I hope YOU are doing even better!
Nice to see the videos are back. The walls were waiting for that first coat of quickset.
When doing first coat on screws with 90 quickset or any hot mud then you need to double wipe them. Durabond is not recommended as its non sandable . Double wipe quick up then down motion. No bumps! Deeper holes bumps a bit. Pro advice no charge 😁
Amazing video and work.
Keep up the amazing work Ben.
i always used easy sand 90 for taping. I did a no-heat house in winter and mixed the Plus3 with Easy Sand for the finish work because the premix would've never dried out. Helped it kick off and set up so I could follow up the next day with the next coat.
Good to see you keep the videos coming
Just did a wall with quickset and it looked fine, but now I will go back and check more closely. Thanks for the tip.
i've never noticed it with cgc proset 90 and I use it all the time.
Thanks for saying that you use quick set only to save time, I have a small job in my basement with some screws but time is not a major factor, I have both SheetRock 90 as well as a light weight general purpose mud. What I get from this video is I might as well just do the screws with the general purpose and use the SheetRock 90 for big gaps. Thx Ben
When im at a really fast job and they want it skim coated ready to sand the next day , I notice that it does poke out a bit after coating it with a 5 in knife. But I apply just a tad heavy set of regular mud over the bump without scraping with a 8 in. Making sure to get a fairly evenly spread all around the bump. Easy to sand next day whether it be with the sanding machine or just hand sanding with a block seems to work for me every time
Well, I just used Durabond 90 (with glue, because of you) to tape and cover all the screws of a large job in my house. Lots of joints with some being a little wide, so packed them full of durabond before the tape over top. I used Fibafuse for the tape. I will let you know what happens on the next coats with normal air dry mud :)
I have a request for another video. How do you decide how much to charge the customer for this work? Do the different jobs pay different prices, hanging drywall, putting on mud, painting, sanding etc? Do you guess how many hours it will take to do or do you calculate the square footage? If there are people with different levels of experience on your team do they get paid less, if the customer is rich do you charge more? Those are my off topic questions. Thanks I know its can be a taboo question and some people might be shy about discussing it but why work if you arent getting paid properly?
Very informative 👍
It's been a year since this video came out, but when I coat the 1st coat of screws, I like to use easysand hot mud. I always wipe a 2nd time to avoid the swelling aspect.
Once in awhile there will be a few that will still swell out, but when I go to apply my 2nd coat on screws, you noticed right away that the 2nd coat isn't smooth. So I scrape off the excess easy sand that's causing that, and continue with the 2nd coat, and on to the third.
Iv never had any issues that I'm aware of this effecting a finished job. But Iv also never, to my knowledge, let a swollen screw coat stay beyond the 2nd coat.
Interesting. I always use hot mud for the first coat. I do scrape it down before the second coat. I always add glue to the Durabond.
Plasterer from Australia here when we coat screws with base coat (setting mud) when you apply your first coat onto screws you put it on and then wipe it off one way then the other way which pushes it into the hole better then it won't swell (create a nipple)
When I am repeating myself the video is over… “feather that edge” 🤣😂🤣😂. Thanks for the great information. I wonder how much humidity plays a role because I think that reno job was spring early summer if I remember correctly (more humid) vs mid october ( pretty dry)
Might have something to do with it. It’s been dry here since the start of July.
Amen to hot mud swells! I quit spotting my fasteners with hot mud years ago. Had it bite me in the arse!
I always use Easy Sand 25 or 30 for initial screw patch and if it does indeed come out, I scrape it and use pre mixed mud for 2nd and 3rd coat.
That explains some things on the repairs I made. What was real frustrating, the ones AI didn't notice, actually swelled more after I painted. Note, don't use Valspar paint, it actually softened the dried mud and created an air bubble, not just over screws.
Durabond is much harder than regular quickset. It’s impossible to sand. It’s intended for pre filling joints. But it does have enough adhesive in it to tape with.
Thanks for the info, Ben. Hope your family is doing well...curious what your daughter bought with the donation you gave her?
This was part of hot mud taping 101 for me back in the day. 🤣🤣🤣
I like you repeating as I am HARD HEADED Sad but true ! THANK YOU FOR THE HELPFULL ADVICE !!
Can't believe I've spent several HOURS watching videos of a guy doing drywall. I've always avoided drywall like a single guy avoiding commitment. But after watching Ben I'm a little less afraid. I have hidden a damaged plaster ceiling for over 10 years but I have enough information now to at least attempt it. In the next six to eight months.
Ive always use durabond as 1st coat over screws..I just wipe it almost completely off with knife at almost 90 degrees ...then 1 or 2 coats of ap. Its not as fast as Ive seen some coat multiple screws with the side of a small knife but Ive had no problems.
I'm a taper and I've finished houses using 90 for first coat, if you do screws this way it's a must to make a habit of scraping before coating them again. Using quickset eliminates having to do a 3rd coat because as stated in your video it swells rather than shrink. Of course the cons to this is scraping but it takes two seconds. I'd say it's a fair tradeoff given that you can get away with a two coat finish. Noted that this video is intended for diyers, just throwing my 2 cents in !
thanks you
Durabond sets up like cement, and is hard. It doesn't shrink as much though.
Do you have any tricks to blending a new joint with an old textured wall? I'm doing a room add on and need to match the texture.
So Im in the market for a electric drywall sander. Might use it 6 times a year mostly ceilings what brands would you suggest?
My experience has been that Durobond shrinks rather than swells. It looks to me in the close up that the fill has saged leaving a belly that you've carved off.
Have had reasonable luck creating a barely perceptible "cup" below surface to take air-dry coats by wiping with a wet sanding sponge/drywall "sanding" sponge before completely set. Probably equivalent to sanding but it has been faster and allowed just a "minimal 'cupping'" to take the air-dry second coat.
Awesome, I just did this with durabond 90 in like 5 rooms
I've seen a couple of your videos now where you mentioned adding glue to your mud but I can't recall seeing you do it on a video. Can you give me a quick description of adding glue or point me to one of videos where you show adding it?
I have a question for you Ben, I have run into this with regular all purpose mud. The only thing I can think of why this happened is that I framed new walls in a reno, went through the boarding, taping, mudding stage, primer, paint etc and find weeks or a couple months later that these raised screw bumps appear in some spots. Is this due to the framing shrinking in your opinion?
hey, I need your help
my wall in the badroom look too bad please what is all I have to do
and whats the materil i have to use to put ceramic on the badroom wall? please.
I wonder if the amount of swell is due to humidity levels, hence not being apparently a predictable issue?
That's what those are! I was tasked with patching a bunch of these bumps as part of a job. I couldn't for the life of me figure out how they happened.
Hey, I just bought a house and one of the bedrooms has exactly this problem, you can see where every single screw is!
walking up my stairs will never be the same now!
Definitely been burned by this when I have a newer guy coating and claiming that he sanded it tight .. left wondering why there are these little high spots.
In the United States, we just add texture to hide all the defects.
Just pulled a bubbling run of drywall tape and there is nothing sticking to the joint. Love to send you a picture of it.
don't use brown bag use easy sand
Right. Many people think the two are interchangeable and refer to each as hot mud or durabond. They are NOT the same. Durabond is much harder and exhibits these problems. I try not to use either on screws.
The ball hasn't even slowed down as far as I'm concerned. More like a rolling snowball, getting bigger and more unstoppable.
Im having a problem where my screws are coated flush and when I primer the drywall it's like the mud has shrunk on every screw. First time seeing this, any thoughts?
I'm just fixing my home where a lousy builder did this throughout the house 😂
Yes but that's probably because I didn't know what I was doing! I want to redo them now that I know better.
I cannot find a video where you say how much glue to put into hot mud for screws. Maybe hot mud swelled because in the quick/n/dirty job spoken about there was too much glue? And should it also be said there are possibilities to get ridges if you foam block sand a hot mud pimple divot that dried sticking out.
Just preparing for my very first DIY home drywall job. Is there an advantage to using quick-set mud to fill screws and for pre-fill? Is it ok to just use all-purpose mud for screws and pre-fill?
Totally okay to just use AP. If you have the time to wait for it to dry it’s no problem and will work great.
@@vancouvercarpenter Thank you so much for your reply! Ok, I’ll just use AP. I have lots of time to let it dry.
The instructions say do not use as a skim coat.. Is that an issue here ?
Is Sheetrock 90 a hot mud? When/why would you use Durabond 90 instead of Sheetrock 90.
I always thought that Durabond 90 was more structural but was completely unsandable?
I scrape between coats
VC burns the midnight oil just like Jim Rohn did!!!!
I used to rent a house where they renovated the basement but you could easily tell that it was rushed. Many pores, out of place corner beams, and most of all the noticeable screw holes filled with durabond 😂
I've always hit the screws twice with a 5 and last coat use a 10
Mad man why using durabond!!!
I didn't realize that hot mud swells. Was under the impression that it just didn't shrink , hence good as a first coat.
i mean it definitely still can shrink abit.
It does both😂
Never had that problem ever
So if your coating each screw separately after 3 costs do you sand so it’s completely flush with only the screw hole visibly left with mud so it looks smooth?
yes
@@vancouvercarpenter Thanks
👍👍👍👍👍
I use USG easy sand 45. Doesn’t happen to me.
Never happened. I use easy sand and when you sand it disappears. Only issue i can get it that is sucks in
wondered why that happened, thought it was just me doing something wrong!
Now you tell me, I noticed the bumps when I painted. Oh well it's my wall and I can live with it.
Oh snap! I will quit doing that!!
Happened to me...luckily it's my own house and only I notice...just about every day ugh
My entire house has bumps, I thought they were all screw pops. Could be this
It's happened
Thanks Simon Cowell
Maybe it didnt “swell”. Maybe you had your mud so thin it sagged.
What's considered a quick set mud? Is 15 min workable mud considered a quick set? 30 mins? I assume 60 mins workable mud is not.
Like rivets. What I really hate is when a screw-top sized bit of mud scrapes out, exposing the screw head.
Hotmud will flash, use hotmud first coat sand then use all-purpose or topping.
Who sands between coats, let alone sand hot mud 😂noobish. I scrape between coats never sand. And NEVER coat screws with durabond.
yes, everyone knows that
Make a deal with you.
I have a house in charleston sc
You can come stay for free
Just have to fix somethings.
Nothing even crazy. But. Some ceiling work and places around light switches.
So come have a vacation and. Fix.
I use sheet rock 20 for screws and I have never had a problem
I ALWAYS used sheetrock 20, 45 or 90 for first coat, mind you I'm not a full time taper, just did a bunch of renos, but I never had any problem getting a good finish
durabond is a harder setting product, guess that makes a difference?