DIYer here. I’m working on prepping a few rooms for paint and I have found several of your videos extremely helpful. Especially they drywall repair, tape mud videos. Thanks for taking the time to educate 👍🏻
I used to skate and would watch you all the time. Just became a home owner and looked a video on how to replace door trim. And you popped up. This is awesome
Wood glue worked a treat for me. I must thank you for all of your tips n tricks. im just finishing up skim coating all my bedrooms as they all had wallpaper and made a mess getting the wallpaper off I was thinking I was going to have to pay someone to come do it. But watching your videos has helped me do the job to a high standard thank you once again .uch appreciated 👌👍
You remind me of me, I can tell you have done this A LOT and you know what works and what doesn't. It is something I can tell. A lot of the videos on this remind me of when I started doing this 20 years ago.
Love your videos,and I'm not a finisher by trade but I do a fair share of it and when I have questions about sheetrock I always go to your videos and so far I have always found what I'm looking for thank you again for your Content.GOD BLESS YOU AND YOUR FAMILY
I literally was looking for a way to cover torn drywall paper this morning and went out and bought BIN after watching your 3yr old video..worked great! Then this video comes out and I realized I had wood glue on hand. Oh well..discovering BIN will be super useful in the future. Thank you so much for enabling me to fix my own drywall!
I'm a contractor, jack of all trades pretty much. I watch these all the time, you've saved me a lot of time and effort, and, by extension, money. Thanks man for making these, it super valuable 🤘🤘🤘
We’ve used wood glue for decades, because it’s handy, clean and saturates into even loose paper you might miss in the prep process. We don’t sand it either. And, it’s great for helping fix deeper holes in conjunction with fiberglass tape. Only thing to watch is drips down the wall as they’re hard to fix afterward.
I'm a retired painter and I always used Peel Stop and applied it by brush. It really locked down the edges and penetrated delaminated paper eliminating air pockets. It's thin as water. Dried in 10 or 20 and was water clean-up. You can also use it on exterior surfaces. What else? Oh yes, I don't miss painting. 😊
Zinnser Gardz has been my go to for doing big drywall rehabs. Its especially good after wallpaper removal. Downside is the 3hr dry time and some people can't stand the smell. I believe Gardz is basically watered down glue. The 77 works great for small areas.
Discovered Spray 77 years ago, same thing, used it in a pinch, was already setting cornerbead in prep for tape. I sprayed in on and rubbed it in around the edges especially. Works great! I'm an old retired drywaller and I do enjoy your videos! Keep em' coming!
@@als1023 Back in the day, Yes. We would use 77 to set the bead and tape the metal or plastic on. This was common practice in commercial settings but we soon adopted it for resid. applications too
I honestly considered wood glue last night, being the only thing I had, but instead I figured I'd put it off until today and look for a video on your channel, and here we are 😂 like you knew me 😂
I like to use Gardz for large tears, never thought to use super 77. I always carry some 77 with me because its great to help fiber tape stick to the painted areas around a patch
If you are someone who has other reasons to use shellac primer, don't throw away the brush! Keep a container of denatured alcohol in the truck. You can even let the shellac fully harden in the brush and then just soak it for 30 min or so in the denatured alcohol next time you need it and the shellac dissolves and is ready to use again. I use shellac primer for almost every interior wood scenario, as well as almost every stain blocking primer adventure. The stuff is incredible!
Love watching you work! You are as thorough as they come! I'm a quality guy as well, but sometimes it's hard for me to bid accordingly and land the gig
Liquid masonry bonder. Looks and performs like very thin white glue. Soaks into the paper, it will even flatten and adhere any loose paper. Dries fairly quickly, apply with a cheap brush. Water soluble, easy soap and water clean up. Skim coats without any perceptible change from the surrounding paper face. It will work with ANY amount of paper loss with NO blistering.
Awesome video, I learned a TON. I did a demo yesterday & removed two mirrors 5’ x 10’ each and now I have to fix all the areas where the glue tore off the paper. I think I’ll use the Glue method, I’ll post my results.
I use white-out, yes you heard that right. the correction fluid you can buy anywhere. It is super cheap , easy to apply and seals it beautifully. Give it a try.
Hey Ben! First off, thank you for all your inspiring and highly educational videos! My wife and I started building a garage with an apartment on top about three years ago, and then started building or house nextdoor about two years ago, and from the start I've always said 'I'm NOT going to be doing any mudding and painting." Well... When we did the apartment we couldn't find any painters who were available so with the help of your amazing videos we taped, mudded and painted and it turned out pretty decent! And now with the house, we got some quotes to get it done but I felt that the prices were too high, so now I've rehearsed by watching your videos again and am about halfway through. It's even slightly enjoyable this time with some more experience under my belt! Second: living in Sweden and watching your videos, I find some things you do "over there" a lot more cumbersome and was wondering if you could weigh in on why you do things the way you do? 1. Putting drywall horizontally instead of vertically? Here in Sweden we do it the other way around, and use drywall of the same length as the room height. This means we only ever get butt joints when the room is higher than about 3m. This, in my eyes, saves a lot of work cutting drywall and mudding and taping butt joints! 2. Here (and probably in most of Europe?) we use round electrical boxes. This makes it super easy (barely en inconvenience) to make holes for the outlets: just use a hole-in-one where you place one part in the box before you put up the drywall, use a magnetic seeker to find the box, and then use a circular hole saw to drill the hole. Bam! Takes about ten seconds to do a hole, instead of probably at least a minute when you have to measure where the hole is supposed to be and then use the saw to saw out a square opening. Also: the holes tend to get perfectly aligned and rarely need and mudding. Have a look at this instructional video from a swedish house-company where you can see both 1 and 2 above. czcams.com/video/KcPRfKic-Js/video.html
There are different building codes in the US. The drywall is installed horizontally and the butt joints are staggered which increases the shear strength of the structure and prevents possible sagging and joint cracking as the framing dries and the structure settles. I've hung boards both ways in different circumstances but I prefer horizontal
That video is pretty amazing - the guy works with his materials at the speed of thought. The transmission from his mind to reality is mesmerizing - wish it allowed comments! Just a joy to watch!
Hey Vancouver, Been an avid follower for years now. You honestly were the reason I was able to start renovations business and make drywall/finishing make sense. When it comes to these paper tears(I haven’t finished the video yet so I could get this thought out before the acorn rolls away) I usually scrape the loose crummies and papers off with my taping knife and do a real tight skim coat of quickset(easy sand 45-90 or durabond 45-90 rarely would I use the durabond unless there is a hole as well. But I add blue cap titebond to my mud with 1 drop of regular dawn. It works like a charm for me but I have found that if your mud isn’t creamy enough like the perfect pancake mix consistency and you can’t get that really tight skim this method won’t work. Is this method okay in your mind?
What!! I thought you had a video using “Roman Rx-35 PRO-999 1 gal. Interior Drywall Repair and Sealer Primer” on raw paper, so I’ve been using it for years. Thanks for the video, I’ve learned a lot.
I’ve been using Gardz with success but saw this and went with wood glue. You say in a pinch but I say it’s the best! No prep for the product, easy water clean up and I can just use my hands if I want. The dry time was lower than Gardz but higher than Shellac but not by much. It worked great! Thanks! Details: Using Gardz and wood glue, in a bathroom environment. Only using 20 minute hot mud. Coated with eggshell/satin and semi-gloss. Full dry and cure times prior to actual bath and shower use. May not be feasible for all but I’ve got 2 full baths. More details: These people are pros imparting their knowledge, if not a pro, don’t go with 20. 45 at least :-D
Love it. Once all the loose paper is scraped off, I like to use a sanding sponge lightly on the paper to knock down any little bits left before applying BIN. It really makes a difference. Thanks for the videos.
You can also use polyurethane (varnish) instead of the Bins primer, has the same chemicals inside (shellac). Only difference is you have to sand it first. I've patched using a homemade hawk made from a scrap of plywood and a plastic knife, all I had on hand. Homemade hawk on a pail worked great as a mixing board too. Impressed by using the wood glue, it would be easy to keep a small bottle in my tool box for such an emergency. Great tips - thanks Ben.
Bins primer may be thinned down with denatured alcohol. In fact you can remove bins primer with denatured alcohol. But it has no effect on polyurethane finishes. Varnishes do not contain denatured alcohol. Non-latex paint and varnish thinners are not alcohol based.
Thank you for putting this, and your other well-done videos up for us! A couple of comments: 1) 77 has wicked solvent fumes and rubbery overspray galore (beware of finished surfaces). Yet it is a great problem solver, so proceed with caution. 2) A professional painter introduced me to generic water-based PVA primer (inexpensive), which he pointed out is the correct primer for exposed wallboard paper because it soaks into the fibers and forms a sealing film that is then paint-ready (I am NOT saying to skip the mud and go straight to paint). It seems that it would be the ideal product in this use, as it's a tinted and thinned out version of the wood glue. It dries really fast, as in about 15 minutes or less depending on the temperature and relative humidity. Have you used it?
I use peel stop, and it has worked for me. I am on the fence with gardz, and I bought a quart of each to see how they worked. Thanks for the great videos.
After removing wallpaper, I tend to do all three of these options, when I’m installing new wallpaper I find using the spray is the best since it seals and preps for new wallcovering the best.
Thanks for this video! I've learned a huge amount from your videos and drywall no longer scares me. Last night I was trying to figure out why the trim on my study door was all wonky. I ended up taking the trim off and found that the door framing was about 1/2" out of plumb. To get the trim to even nail up to the door jamb, the door installers had to "shave" the drywall, which they did by smashing it into pulp with their framing hammers! I do so wish I could post a picture of that. Just appalling.
Ha! That spray adhesive is the same product I used in art school to seal my pencil and charcoal drawings 😄 Thank you for your tips- I've been scraping away at my bathroom walls and I'm grateful for some guidance!
I painted for years and on the way i always fixed them was cut them out and anytime i didnt have schelac with me i would just use a good semi gloss paint to seal them down, it worked decent enough then a couple of coats of mud and it came out perfect.. As i always say quality tools gives a quality job....
I just tried Zissner or something like that oil based primer spray and it developed a lot of tiny air bubbles as it dried. They were easily knocked down with a single pass of the sanding sponge, but I wasn’t expecting that. I’ll try your brand next time.
Former painter here... and we used to use " Kilz" s well for this brown paper spots. Never had an issue either! It's basically a spray shellac with pigment. The pigment is added, basically, so you can see what your spraying. Works great. The only real drawback is that it is a bit spendy, but one large can can last for several jobs and ALWAYS has come on in clutch!
At the big box orange store, a 13oz spray can of Kilz white Oil-Based Interior Primer spray is roughly $11, where a 13oz Spray can of white BIN Shellac Base Primer is $21. I don't doubt the results of this video in showing how good BIN Shellac is, but it is twice the cost of Kilz in my area! Will the spray can of Kilz work just as well?
Thanks for the video ! Carpenters glue sound good too. I've been using any concrete bonding weld for 45 years and it's fine .When just the paint peals off patchs it's good, on the edges between old plaster and paint. ((( I also add some in my plaster mix ))) good day sir :)
A couple coats with Zinsser cover stain spray and you can still brush it out, way faster and less messy. Done it thousands of time with excellent results. Thank you excellent video 👍🏾
Thank you so much for these videos! I started a project that has a lot of peeled paint and drywall paper and have already covered some with compound - is it too late to seal those places using one of these methods, now that I know what I was supposed to do in the first place?
Hello! Thank you for making this video. I am installing a new vinyl baseboard with adhesive, replacing the old vinyl baseboard. When removing off the wall, it tore parts of the drywall. Do I need to do the scrape, primer, & mud steps, or will it work to just glue the new baseboard onto the torn drywall? Thanks!
33 yr handyman here - BIN cleans up almost INSTANTLY if you dunk the wet or almost dry brush into ammonia!!! I recommend the double strength janitorial ammonia - cleans Bin brushes magically!!!
BIN works great. I also use concrete bonding adhesive. For cleaning shellac use denatured alcohol or household ammonia. I just recently tried the ammonia and was surprised how well it works.
Zinnser Bin brush cleaner works a treat even on hardening Bin Primer brushes, believe it or not. If you leave your brush uncleaned over night and the brush it still a little bit flexible, i.e. crusty on the outside with a gooey milk center, just pop it back in the paint tin for 30 mins and its as good as new. I wrap mine in one of my used vinyl gloves at the end of the day and they are perfect the next morning.
Murphy's oil soap also works well at removing paint from a brush you forget to clean. Put oil soap in a cup hang brush too paint line and watch it wick the paint out. It also makes an excellent conditioner for the brushes themselves.. Masters paint brush soap also works well..learned this from a still life oil painter ..
I just did this after watching your video and it works perfectly!! I had the paper coming off on an unpainted, interior garage wall. I followed your instructions exactly!! I have not had any problems when painting. I used the shellac method. Thanks!
Had some leftover Minwax clear shellac and tried it out on some torn paper in my bathroom remodel. Works great, however, as a comment below said the VOC was really strong. Had to close the door and open a window so that is one drawback but it does save you from having to go buy a big can that you will never use it all up.
This is awesome, thanks!! I'm in the greater Vancouver area and literally doing a painting job with exposed paper on the drywall. Your videos are the best! So helpful!
I'm new to DIY and not very strong yet. I tried using a full sized hawk for my ceiling, but I just couldn't hold it up. I found my 12" knife makes the perfect sized 'hawk' to use with my 10" knife, which is the biggest my wrists and child-sized hands can manage right now. This video was helpful. I took down some wire closet shelving. It was put up when the paint was still a bit wet, so when I took it down it peeled off some paint and paper.
Very helpful; just wondering did you say you used 20 minute mud then covered with all purpose? When I go to the hardware store, I never know which product to choose, too many options,
Great video! wonder if I just paint the torn paper with semi-glosss primer+paint, or put a layer of quick-setting compound over the torn paper, and then put new mud over, would these methods work? Thanks.
Hey Ben, scanned a ton of these comments and don’t see anybody asking yet, so here goes. Had a tip from a local drywaller about using the 3M CornerBead 61 Adhesive to seal torn paper and I’ve been using that for the last 3 years or so as I come across drywall repairs that need it. It’s worked great! Apart from the red tint that 61 has, am I missing something else that says I should be using 77 instead?
Hey really helpful video, Im stripping wall paper off in a bedroom and for the most part ive got down to the white drywall, though today the paper just would not budge and when i tore it away, the white paint under the wall paper actually came with it. It looks like what you have in the video but alot bigger, i did start to panic slightly, but if you have any further advice im all ears!
Awsome.. would you be willing to try clear chaulk line saver? That stuff drys super fast. Pretty sure that's what I have seen alot of commercial guys use downtown calgary..can't confirm the type I was an apprentice doing another trade at the time.
I removed very old glued down wall board and it shredded the drywall paper because they troweled the adhesive. I plan to seal and prime with kilz mold retardant because it's in my bathroom. Also I'm installing new panel board exact height. After I scrape away the loose shreds and seal will that be enough? Do I need to glue the new panels or can I just nail? Or spot glue?
DIYer here. I’m working on prepping a few rooms for paint and I have found several of your videos extremely helpful. Especially they drywall repair, tape mud videos. Thanks for taking the time to educate 👍🏻
♥️👊
I used to skate and would watch you all the time. Just became a home owner and looked a video on how to replace door trim. And you popped up. This is awesome
Wood glue worked a treat for me. I must thank you for all of your tips n tricks. im just finishing up skim coating all my bedrooms as they all had wallpaper and made a mess getting the wallpaper off I was thinking I was going to have to pay someone to come do it. But watching your videos has helped me do the job to a high standard thank you once again .uch appreciated 👌👍
You remind me of me, I can tell you have done this A LOT and you know what works and what doesn't. It is something I can tell. A lot of the videos on this remind me of when I started doing this 20 years ago.
Watched a few of your videos in the past, needed a refresher to patch up my daughters new bedroom properly, thank you its turning out great so far
Love your videos,and I'm not a finisher by trade but I do a fair share of it and when I have questions about sheetrock I always go to your videos and so far I have always found what I'm looking for thank you again for your Content.GOD BLESS YOU AND YOUR FAMILY
This is the most useful channel, thank you! I have saved so many of your videos.
I literally was looking for a way to cover torn drywall paper this morning and went out and bought BIN after watching your 3yr old video..worked great! Then this video comes out and I realized I had wood glue on hand. Oh well..discovering BIN will be super useful in the future. Thank you so much for enabling me to fix my own drywall!
“Do I have to explain everything” “oh yea I guess I do” lol.. that was pretty funny. Thanks for your time and knowledge brother. Very helpful
I'm a contractor, jack of all trades pretty much. I watch these all the time, you've saved me a lot of time and effort, and, by extension, money. Thanks man for making these, it super valuable 🤘🤘🤘
Great to hear!
We’ve used wood glue for decades, because it’s handy, clean and saturates into even loose paper you might miss in the prep process. We don’t sand it either. And, it’s great for helping fix deeper holes in conjunction with fiberglass tape. Only thing to watch is drips down the wall as they’re hard to fix afterward.
Do you apply it with a brush?
This was the exact type of repair I needed to see. TY!
You always amaze me with your work and you really explain things in your videos. Thanks for sharing.
Good to see I'm on track with the 2 knife method I often use for small patches or whatnot, but my aim was merely less cleanup work.
I'm finishing my basement laundry and your videos have been a great help
Just got into drywalls And you helped
I thank your for being so helpful. God bless
I'm a retired painter and I always used Peel Stop and applied it by brush. It really locked down the edges and penetrated delaminated paper eliminating air pockets. It's thin as water. Dried in 10 or 20 and was water clean-up. You can also use it on exterior surfaces. What else? Oh yes, I don't miss painting. 😊
Thanks for that tip. I will give this a try.
I used the paint method after removing 3 mirrors. Worked great. Thank you.
I been a Fan for years.. Even learned some skating skills as well. Thank you for your videos
Man your videos are SO informative. Thank you for making them for us!!
Zinnser Gardz has been my go to for doing big drywall rehabs. Its especially good after wallpaper removal. Downside is the 3hr dry time and some people can't stand the smell. I believe Gardz is basically watered down glue. The 77 works great for small areas.
Thanks to your videos I been learning how fix this type a problem!!! You the best
I just had to reference your original video yesterday so this is awesome to learn 2 more methods. Thanks!
Discovered Spray 77 years ago, same thing, used it in a pinch, was already setting cornerbead in prep for tape. I sprayed in on and rubbed it in around the edges especially. Works great! I'm an old retired drywaller and I do enjoy your videos! Keep em' coming!
I assume you are using 77 to set paper bead, correct?
@@als1023 Back in the day, Yes. We would use 77 to set the bead and tape the metal or plastic on. This was common practice in commercial settings but we soon adopted it for resid. applications too
@@briannelson4122 Thanka for your thoughts, much appreciated !
[[*John I&&II.&&&j&98
valuable information. thanks, especially for the warning to press the shellac into the repair when using the spray shellac
I’ve been using the wood glue method for a while now. I love it. Works on large and small paper tears equally. Dries fast and sands well (if needed).
Excellent video, one of your best, lots of content on those 3 comparisons and thanks for doing this !!
Used the Super 77 trick yesterday. Worked like charm!!!
I honestly considered wood glue last night, being the only thing I had, but instead I figured I'd put it off until today and look for a video on your channel, and here we are 😂 like you knew me 😂
I like to use Gardz for large tears, never thought to use super 77. I always carry some 77 with me because its great to help fiber tape stick to the painted areas around a patch
If you are someone who has other reasons to use shellac primer, don't throw away the brush! Keep a container of denatured alcohol in the truck. You can even let the shellac fully harden in the brush and then just soak it for 30 min or so in the denatured alcohol next time you need it and the shellac dissolves and is ready to use again. I use shellac primer for almost every interior wood scenario, as well as almost every stain blocking primer adventure. The stuff is incredible!
Now that's a great tip!
Love watching you work! You are as thorough as they come! I'm a quality guy as well, but sometimes it's hard for me to bid accordingly and land the gig
Liquid masonry bonder. Looks and performs like very thin white glue. Soaks into the paper, it will even flatten and adhere any loose paper. Dries fairly quickly, apply with a cheap brush. Water soluble, easy soap and water clean up. Skim coats without any perceptible change from the surrounding paper face. It will work with ANY amount of paper loss with NO blistering.
Awesome video, I learned a TON. I did a demo yesterday & removed two mirrors 5’ x 10’ each and now I have to fix all the areas where the glue tore off the paper. I think I’ll use the Glue method, I’ll post my results.
Thanks so much! Great video and you make a great teacher.
You are fantastic on double speed!
I use white-out, yes you heard that right. the correction fluid you can buy anywhere. It is super cheap , easy to apply and seals it beautifully. Give it a try.
Hey Ben! First off, thank you for all your inspiring and highly educational videos! My wife and I started building a garage with an apartment on top about three years ago, and then started building or house nextdoor about two years ago, and from the start I've always said 'I'm NOT going to be doing any mudding and painting." Well... When we did the apartment we couldn't find any painters who were available so with the help of your amazing videos we taped, mudded and painted and it turned out pretty decent! And now with the house, we got some quotes to get it done but I felt that the prices were too high, so now I've rehearsed by watching your videos again and am about halfway through. It's even slightly enjoyable this time with some more experience under my belt!
Second: living in Sweden and watching your videos, I find some things you do "over there" a lot more cumbersome and was wondering if you could weigh in on why you do things the way you do?
1. Putting drywall horizontally instead of vertically? Here in Sweden we do it the other way around, and use drywall of the same length as the room height. This means we only ever get butt joints when the room is higher than about 3m. This, in my eyes, saves a lot of work cutting drywall and mudding and taping butt joints!
2. Here (and probably in most of Europe?) we use round electrical boxes. This makes it super easy (barely en inconvenience) to make holes for the outlets: just use a hole-in-one where you place one part in the box before you put up the drywall, use a magnetic seeker to find the box, and then use a circular hole saw to drill the hole. Bam! Takes about ten seconds to do a hole, instead of probably at least a minute when you have to measure where the hole is supposed to be and then use the saw to saw out a square opening. Also: the holes tend to get perfectly aligned and rarely need and mudding.
Have a look at this instructional video from a swedish house-company where you can see both 1 and 2 above.
czcams.com/video/KcPRfKic-Js/video.html
There are different building codes in the US. The drywall is installed horizontally and the butt joints are staggered which increases the shear strength of the structure and prevents possible sagging and joint cracking as the framing dries and the structure settles. I've hung boards both ways in different circumstances but I prefer horizontal
That video is pretty amazing - the guy works with his materials at the speed of thought. The transmission from his mind to reality is mesmerizing - wish it allowed comments! Just a joy to watch!
Hey Vancouver,
Been an avid follower for years now. You honestly were the reason I was able to start renovations business and make drywall/finishing make sense. When it comes to these paper tears(I haven’t finished the video yet so I could get this thought out before the acorn rolls away) I usually scrape the loose crummies and papers off with my taping knife and do a real tight skim coat of quickset(easy sand 45-90 or durabond 45-90 rarely would I use the durabond unless there is a hole as well. But I add blue cap titebond to my mud with 1 drop of regular dawn. It works like a charm for me but I have found that if your mud isn’t creamy enough like the perfect pancake mix consistency and you can’t get that really tight skim this method won’t work. Is this method okay in your mind?
What!! I thought you had a video using “Roman Rx-35 PRO-999 1 gal. Interior Drywall Repair and Sealer Primer” on raw paper, so I’ve been using it for years.
Thanks for the video, I’ve learned a lot.
I’ve been using Gardz with success but saw this and went with wood glue. You say in a pinch but I say it’s the best! No prep for the product, easy water clean up and I can just use my hands if I want. The dry time was lower than Gardz but higher than Shellac but not by much.
It worked great! Thanks!
Details: Using Gardz and wood glue, in a bathroom environment. Only using 20 minute hot mud. Coated with eggshell/satin and semi-gloss. Full dry and cure times prior to actual bath and shower use. May not be feasible for all but I’ve got 2 full baths.
More details: These people are pros imparting their knowledge, if not a pro, don’t go with 20. 45 at least :-D
Love it. Once all the loose paper is scraped off, I like to use a sanding sponge lightly on the paper to knock down any little bits left before applying BIN. It really makes a difference. Thanks for the videos.
Bin?
Zinsser BIN shallac based primer. Reduces the chance that the paper will bubble.
You can also use polyurethane (varnish) instead of the Bins primer, has the same chemicals inside (shellac). Only difference is you have to sand it first. I've patched using a homemade hawk made from a scrap of plywood and a plastic knife, all I had on hand. Homemade hawk on a pail worked great as a mixing board too. Impressed by using the wood glue, it would be easy to keep a small bottle in my tool box for such an emergency. Great tips - thanks Ben.
Bins primer may be thinned down with denatured alcohol. In fact you can remove bins primer with denatured alcohol. But it has no effect on polyurethane finishes. Varnishes do not contain denatured alcohol. Non-latex paint and varnish thinners are not alcohol based.
Thank you for putting this, and your other well-done videos up for us!
A couple of comments:
1) 77 has wicked solvent fumes and rubbery overspray galore (beware of finished surfaces). Yet it is a great problem solver, so proceed with caution.
2) A professional painter introduced me to generic water-based PVA primer (inexpensive), which he pointed out is the correct primer for exposed wallboard paper because it soaks into the fibers and forms a sealing film that is then paint-ready (I am NOT saying to skip the mud and go straight to paint). It seems that it would be the ideal product in this use, as it's a tinted and thinned out version of the wood glue. It dries really fast, as in about 15 minutes or less depending on the temperature and relative humidity. Have you used it?
I use peel stop, and it has worked for me. I am on the fence with gardz, and I bought a quart of each to see how they worked. Thanks for the great videos.
Gardz has its uses but it’s failed me on repairs like these. The regular Peel
Stop has yet to fail me, it works.
After removing wallpaper, I tend to do all three of these options, when I’m installing new wallpaper I find using the spray is the best since it seals and preps for new wallcovering the best.
I wondered about using wood glue, got a bathroom where wallpaper removal went off the rails. I've got lots of wood glue, I'm glad to see that work!
Thanks for this video! I've learned a huge amount from your videos and drywall no longer scares me. Last night I was trying to figure out why the trim on my study door was all wonky. I ended up taking the trim off and found that the door framing was about 1/2" out of plumb. To get the trim to even nail up to the door jamb, the door installers had to "shave" the drywall, which they did by smashing it into pulp with their framing hammers! I do so wish I could post a picture of that. Just appalling.
Ha! That spray adhesive is the same product I used in art school to seal my pencil and charcoal drawings 😄 Thank you for your tips- I've been scraping away at my bathroom walls and I'm grateful for some guidance!
I just found this video, and wondered if hairspray would work. I've used that before to seal my pastel and pencil drawings for years.
I painted for years and on the way i always fixed them was cut them out and anytime i didnt have schelac with me i would just use a good semi gloss paint to seal them down, it worked decent enough then a couple of coats of mud and it came out perfect.. As i always say quality tools gives a quality job....
Thanks great video I’ve had to do this kinda of repair on my house many times I watched your first video on this topic and it works great.
Great to hear!
I use gardz. Takes a good three hours to dry though... The spray 77 is a good idea though for fast drying. Especially if BIN is pretty toxic smelling
As an artist, I'm wondering if standard hairspray would work to seal the drywall. I've used hairspray to seal pastel drawings, and it works very well.
I never thought to use carpenters' glue. I've always just used "kilz" in the spray can, and I have never had any issues. Thanks for the video!
I just tried Zissner or something like that oil based primer spray and it developed a lot of tiny air bubbles as it dried. They were easily knocked down with a single pass of the sanding sponge, but I wasn’t expecting that. I’ll try your brand next time.
As have I. Kilz is the 💩.
Former painter here... and we used to use " Kilz" s well for this brown paper spots. Never had an issue either! It's basically a spray shellac with pigment. The pigment is added, basically, so you can see what your spraying. Works great. The only real drawback is that it is a bit spendy, but one large can can last for several jobs and ALWAYS has come on in clutch!
At the big box orange store, a 13oz spray can of Kilz white Oil-Based Interior Primer spray is roughly $11, where a 13oz Spray can of white BIN Shellac Base Primer is $21. I don't doubt the results of this video in showing how good BIN Shellac is, but it is twice the cost of Kilz in my area! Will the spray can of Kilz work just as well?
Imagine being so good at your job that even when you try to do something badly for illustrative purposes, it still ends up in good shape 🧐.
Thanks for the video ! Carpenters glue sound good too. I've been using any concrete bonding weld for 45 years and it's fine .When just the paint peals off patchs it's good, on the edges between old plaster and paint. ((( I also add some in my plaster mix ))) good day sir :)
A couple coats with Zinsser cover stain spray and you can still brush it out, way faster and less messy. Done it thousands of time with excellent results. Thank you excellent video 👍🏾
Aqua Net Hair spray has never failed me in 21yrs.
Lol it never failed me in the 80s either
You can use latex caulk in place of wood glue...Slightly watered down then apply with a paint brush. Also Zinsser 123 latex primer works great.
Wonderful buddy thanks for your time and know
Thanks for making this video! I have to fix a few drywall tears that a contractor didn't fix.
What mud are you using? And is the final coat standard drywall spackle?
Thank you so much for these videos! I started a project that has a lot of peeled paint and drywall paper and have already covered some with compound - is it too late to seal those places using one of these methods, now that I know what I was supposed to do in the first place?
Nice video Ben so helpful, you always do a amazing job on helping people and keep up the amazing work.
Hello! Thank you for making this video. I am installing a new vinyl baseboard with adhesive, replacing the old vinyl baseboard. When removing off the wall, it tore parts of the drywall. Do I need to do the scrape, primer, & mud steps, or will it work to just glue the new baseboard onto the torn drywall? Thanks!
Thank you brother, keep safe
You’re a legend bro
33 yr handyman here - BIN cleans up almost INSTANTLY if you dunk the wet or almost dry brush into ammonia!!! I recommend the double strength janitorial ammonia - cleans Bin brushes magically!!!
Will quick setting or joint compound mixed with PVA glue work? Or would PVA glue by itself work? Thanks!
BIN works great. I also use concrete bonding adhesive. For cleaning shellac use denatured alcohol or household ammonia. I just recently tried the ammonia and was surprised how well it works.
Larsen weldcrete or plaster weld is the shit!
Merci beaucoup . From Toulouse France .
Zinnser Bin brush cleaner works a treat even on hardening Bin Primer brushes, believe it or not. If you leave your brush uncleaned over night and the brush it still a little bit flexible, i.e. crusty on the outside with a gooey milk center, just pop it back in the paint tin for 30 mins and its as good as new. I wrap mine in one of my used vinyl gloves at the end of the day and they are perfect the next morning.
Good tip. I’ll try it.
Murphy's oil soap also works well at removing paint from a brush you forget to clean. Put oil soap in a cup hang brush too paint line and watch it wick the paint out.
It also makes an excellent conditioner for the brushes themselves.. Masters paint brush soap also works well..learned this from a still life oil painter ..
Great video, thanks !!
I just did this after watching your video and it works perfectly!! I had the paper coming off on an unpainted, interior garage wall. I followed your instructions exactly!! I have not had any problems when painting. I used the shellac method. Thanks!
I use bins like you did and I also primarily use kilz spray any thoughts on the kilz product? GOD BLESS YOU AND YOUR FAMILY.
Shellek is fantastic, I use it on everything. Great for MDF as well.
From skateboarding to wall repair, you’ve got it all covered.
Had some leftover Minwax clear shellac and tried it out on some torn paper in my bathroom remodel. Works great, however, as a comment below said the VOC was really strong. Had to close the door and open a window so that is one drawback but it does save you from having to go buy a big can that you will never use it all up.
This is awesome, thanks!! I'm in the greater Vancouver area and literally doing a painting job with exposed paper on the drywall. Your videos are the best! So helpful!
Do you have to prime/seal over the joint compound or can you just paint over it?
What mud should be used on these? I got a drydex light weight joint compound. Do I need a different one or will this one I have do the job?
Love your videos.
I'm new to DIY and not very strong yet. I tried using a full sized hawk for my ceiling, but I just couldn't hold it up. I found my 12" knife makes the perfect sized 'hawk' to use with my 10" knife, which is the biggest my wrists and child-sized hands can manage right now. This video was helpful. I took down some wire closet shelving. It was put up when the paint was still a bit wet, so when I took it down it peeled off some paint and paper.
About to mud/tape my house (800sq’) have a couple spots like this great video!
Very helpful; just wondering did you say you used 20 minute mud then covered with all purpose? When I go to the hardware store, I never know which product to choose, too many options,
Great video! wonder if I just paint the torn paper with semi-glosss primer+paint, or put a layer of quick-setting compound over the torn paper, and then put new mud over, would these methods work? Thanks.
Zinsser Gardz works exceptionally well and it's water based.
What do you use for sanding tools also and grit? Thank you.
I learned that putting mesh tape and a thin coat of quickset works good too haven’t noticed any issues
thanks for video..also mesh or paper tape works well with this stuff..
Question I just Fixed 6 small spots with that primer should I kills it after that oil base primer or just hit it with the 20 min mud them prime that
I have plaster walls in my 1960's home. Can I follow this same process? Thx! Good video's
Stix primer works great!
Hey Ben, scanned a ton of these comments and don’t see anybody asking yet, so here goes. Had a tip from a local drywaller about using the 3M CornerBead 61 Adhesive to seal torn paper and I’ve been using that for the last 3 years or so as I come across drywall repairs that need it. It’s worked great! Apart from the red tint that 61 has, am I missing something else that says I should be using 77 instead?
Ben, I sometimes use the lid of the can for a quick tray, just to even out the product unto the roller a little.
Hey really helpful video, Im stripping wall paper off in a bedroom and for the most part ive got down to the white drywall, though today the paper just would not budge and when i tore it away, the white paint under the wall paper actually came with it. It looks like what you have in the video but alot bigger, i did start to panic slightly, but if you have any further advice im all ears!
Awsome.. would you be willing to try clear chaulk line saver? That stuff drys super fast. Pretty sure that's what I have seen alot of commercial guys use downtown calgary..can't confirm the type I was an apprentice doing another trade at the time.
I removed very old glued down wall board and it shredded the drywall paper because they troweled the adhesive. I plan to seal and prime with kilz mold retardant because it's in my bathroom. Also I'm installing new panel board exact height. After I scrape away the loose shreds and seal will that be enough? Do I need to glue the new panels or can I just nail? Or spot glue?
Great! Thanks! I assume you can then use a spray texture.
Thanks!