They have several different sizes of the ready mill bits that you order separately which size did you get for your router and how did you know what size to get for your router
It’s worth the money if you don’t have a mill or CNC machine. The quality you get out of this jig, if your patient and take your time, is unmatched in my opinion. I would suspect that you could sell it for 90% of what you pay for it if you were to use it once or twice. Not a bad investment.
@@CalebDowning i would be keeping that jig kit... i build lots of them. i have been doing them all on my 50.00 harbor freight drill press and cheap 4" vise from them too. being on social security i don't make much money. you have a great channel my friend!
How about a video of the whole process showing the adjustments as you go. Everyone does vids on this product but no one actually shows how to do it!!! Why?
Looks good ! I've used an earlier version of a router jig , the one with the longer mill cutter and that one sucks. Everytime we'd do a lower we'd break a cutter. Cost per cutter was $25 !! Then we tried a small drill press with an X-Y vice. Better results, but it takes forever. I think I'm about done with 80% lowers at this point. How much does that mill cutter cost for the 5D Jig ?
I hear you man. The cutter is between $45-55, so it’s not cheap. I think it will last longer than the standard cutters though. That being said it did break a tooth off when it got away from me and chattered itself to death.
That's what the older version would do. You can still use that cutter but ya' gotta be extra careful. If your side walls are uneven ya' probably needed to shim it up to center it. Is one side under sized? They should be around .100". They didn't look bad in the video.
I have since last comment watched a couple videos and have a better idea of how the 5 D works and I don't see how you can shim the lower in the jig. Guess it is what it is. Even them out with a Dremmel ?
What did you find out about the difference in thickness from one side to the other? I milled one and had the same issue. Not sure if I did something wrong on setup or not.
I think it came down to not setting things up right. I’ve done 4-5 since the video and they all turned out great. I think this trick will help. Just like when you add optics and things to a pic rail, you push them forward before tightening them down, right? Do the same thing when you put the jig together. There’s not much any play in the jig’s fit bit I think there’s enough to think about.
@@CalebDowning That's the way most of the AR-15 recievers are. they are slightly thicker on the left side. That is one of several differences between the AR-15 and the M-16 receiver.
@@CalebDowning so i should see it come out the bottom and stop? Thanks for replying! Watched a lot of videos and didn’t know if there was a stopping point or not lol thank u
@@CalebDowning For speed 5D, but is way too noise and "dangerous" if you are not paying attention. Broken Arms takes longer but is more "forgiving" and requires some more involvement in the process.
Had just about decided on the 5D, had a few questions, contacted them via FB, Messenger, etc and in 2plus months now I've gotten zero response, even posted up on an 80% builder FB page I know the owner is on, and,....nothing...guess I'm gonna go with a Modulus jig instead, sick of waiting for the 5D owner to answer...
I’ve used everything from WD-40 to legit cutting oil from Lowe’s. I’m not sure what I was using in the video but it was probably Lowe’s cutting oil or straight 5w-30. It all does about the same for my applications.
Until you wear the bushing out and your holes start to look like eggs. After 3 or 4 you will need to buy new legs for the jig if using sharp bits and a hand drill. Nobody can hold a hand drill perfectly straight.
I found it very informative and kept coming back to your videos several times prepping for when my 5D jig pro arrived, which took about two months, by the time I finally got it I had everything down pat, thanks to your videos and others like it very informative thanks a lot greatly appreciate!
BIG DESIGN FLAWS!!!! Beware that this router jig & the Modulus Arms Extreme router jig cuts the trigger slot way out of specs. These cut the trigger slot .380 wide X .700 long. The trigger should be .312 wide X about .550 long. The trigger slot only needs to wide & long enough for the trigger to fit through with no gaps between the trigger & trigger slot per Mil-Spec. Also, the drill bushings are cheap & have a lot wobble if using a hand drill.
@@CalebDowning Right now I'm in the process of designing a new top plate, side plates, drill bushings, & end mill to correct these design flaws so a person can mill out a lower receiver to Mil-Spec standards.
At this point I am trying out a lot of different fixtures & I'm I am also designing my own.As soon as I can design & 3D print the parts for fit , then I'll machine then I'll start producing my version of a AR15 lower jig. Some non critical parts may remain 3D printed to lower costs but not quality. I'll see in a couple of months.
I have both this jig and the 80% arms easy jig gen2. Even though it takes longer because you have to take lighter cuts, I like the easy jig gen 2 better.
Heck yeah!! Can't wait to see!!! But in order to do the job correctly gotta have the right tools!! Cool!! :-)
"If you don't know what I'm talking about, you need to get married and have kids" Caleb Downing
They have several different sizes of the ready mill bits that you order separately which size did you get for your router and how did you know what size to get for your router
Just ordered this jig. Now this being an old video do you have a better one you use now and what suggestions to have ahead of time?
The hardest part now is trying to find the jig to mill the lower out.
Ya it looks like 5D is out of stock right now on their website.
Nice job,and have fun.
Thanks man 👍
After having used this jig I don't think I will ever do a lower any other way
True that 👆😎
i would like to get 1 of those jig kits but not enough money.
great job done though!
It’s worth the money if you don’t have a mill or CNC machine. The quality you get out of this jig, if your patient and take your time, is unmatched in my opinion. I would suspect that you could sell it for 90% of what you pay for it if you were to use it once or twice. Not a bad investment.
@@CalebDowning i would be keeping that jig kit... i build lots of them.
i have been doing them all on my 50.00 harbor freight drill press and cheap 4" vise from them too.
being on social security i don't make much money.
you have a great channel my friend!
Rock on man 🤙 Thanks!
How about a video of the whole process showing the adjustments as you go. Everyone does vids on this product but no one actually shows how to do it!!! Why?
So if you show “too much” on how to actually finish these lowers then CZcams will pull the video or even strike/delete the channel.
Did you have any issues with the pins walking out?
No, everything stays put pretty dang well for me 🤷♂️
I quit doing AR lowers because it just gets too messy
They can definitely be messy, that’s for sure.
You forgot one tool that you need, a 7/64 Allen wrench!!!!
Touché 😏
Looks good ! I've used an earlier version of a router jig , the one with the longer mill cutter and that one sucks. Everytime we'd do a lower we'd break a cutter. Cost per cutter was $25 !! Then we tried a small drill press with an X-Y vice. Better results, but it takes forever. I think I'm about done with 80% lowers at this point. How much does that mill cutter cost for the 5D Jig ?
I hear you man. The cutter is between $45-55, so it’s not cheap. I think it will last longer than the standard cutters though. That being said it did break a tooth off when it got away from me and chattered itself to death.
That's what the older version would do. You can still use that cutter but ya' gotta be extra careful. If your side walls are uneven ya' probably needed to shim it up to center it. Is one side under sized? They should be around .100". They didn't look bad in the video.
I think it was the lower or something fluke happened. I’ve done a couple other lowers and a buddy did his 308 and they didn’t have that problem.
I have since last comment watched a couple videos and have a better idea of how the 5 D works and I don't see how you can shim the lower in the jig. Guess it is what it is. Even them out with a Dremmel ?
That’s a possibility 🤔 I may just use it as a beater lower.
What did you find out about the difference in thickness from one side to the other? I milled one and had the same issue. Not sure if I did something wrong on setup or not.
I think it came down to not setting things up right. I’ve done 4-5 since the video and they all turned out great.
I think this trick will help. Just like when you add optics and things to a pic rail, you push them forward before tightening them down, right? Do the same thing when you put the jig together. There’s not much any play in the jig’s fit bit I think there’s enough to think about.
@@CalebDowning thanks a lot! I will give that a try.
@@CalebDowning That's the way most of the AR-15 recievers are. they are slightly thicker on the left side. That is one of several differences between the AR-15 and the M-16 receiver.
Interesting Dale, I didn’t know that 🤔
I have a couple of "factory made" lowers that were exactly uneven that way,,, and they performed well
Caleb recently ordered one when u make the first drill hole down the middle how far r u suppose to go?
That first hole is drilled all the way through the bottom.
@@CalebDowning so i should see it come out the bottom and stop? Thanks for replying! Watched a lot of videos and didn’t know if there was a stopping point or not lol thank u
@jamesmorua3605 it should come out right where the trigger would be. Yes, you should see it come out the bottom.
Question: When you mill with the first set of guide pins, do you also run it into the numbers 2 and 3 cavities?
I think I understand your question. Yes, when you have the shortest pins you go over the whole thing. It’s pretty dummy proof.
How did you do the selector switch holes ? Drill press or that actual drill you showed?
You just use the jig and use a hand drill to drill through.
Im going to get one. Better than the ones where you have to drill a million holes
Definitely better 👍 Those ones are crap in my opinion 😬
@@CalebDowning You need to try the Broken Arms jig... solid and build like a tank. I own both
Interesting 🤔 Which one do you like the best?
@@CalebDowning For speed 5D, but is way too noise and "dangerous" if you are not paying attention. Broken Arms takes longer but is more "forgiving" and requires some more involvement in the process.
Interesting.. especially the aluminum shavings in your beard..!! Hope you were wearing safety glasses🤓
Take good and be care..!! 😂
Christmas sparkle shavings 👍 and yes, I definitely used safety glasses 👓
Had just about decided on the 5D, had a few questions, contacted them via FB, Messenger, etc and in 2plus months now I've gotten zero response, even posted up on an 80% builder FB page I know the owner is on, and,....nothing...guess I'm gonna go with a Modulus jig instead, sick of waiting for the 5D owner to answer...
Sorry to hear that man 😒 I’ve had nothing but a good experience with them.
What was your cutting oil?
I’ve used everything from WD-40 to legit cutting oil from Lowe’s. I’m not sure what I was using in the video but it was probably Lowe’s cutting oil or straight 5w-30. It all does about the same for my applications.
What happened with this build ? I’m thinking about using 5d tactical but trying to do some research
I'm not sure which build this lower went into... I can say that I've done 4-5 other lower in this jig since and they all turned out very well.
Thank you , I will start a lower soon
@1:04. Its a Soda Stream. Don't carbonate flavored drinks. Its a mess.
Anyway, I just ordered my 5D multi Saturday and now I'm just waiting...
Good advice man 👍 Your gonna love that jig!
@@CalebDowning yeah, I cant wait to get going on my lowers. And I didnt mean not to make flavored drinks. Carbonate the water first, then add flavor.
I hear ya man. I’ve seen some videos where people tried carbonating drinks and ended up with a juice explosion 😆
For the pin holes, is it better tobuse a drill press or by hand?
If you’re using the jig then it’s pretty dummy proof to use a hand drill. I wouldn’t worry about a drill press for that step.
Until you wear the bushing out and your holes start to look like eggs. After 3 or 4 you will need to buy new legs for the jig if using sharp bits and a hand drill. Nobody can hold a hand drill perfectly straight.
It would be best to use a drill press if you can. A power drill could risk ovaling the holes whether it's the 1st or the 4th.
Will this jig do a polymer frame as well aluminum?
It should 👍
12:43 minutes I can never get back.
😁👍
I found it very informative and kept coming back to your videos several times prepping for when my 5D jig pro arrived, which took about two months, by the time I finally got it I had everything down pat, thanks to your videos and others like it very informative thanks a lot greatly appreciate!
Awesome Bobby! Thanks, Glad I could help 😁
What kind of drill is that?
I think it’s a cheap Porter Cable.
I think I'm asking for that Jig for fathers day... I really want an A1 lower for my MK12 with the correct markings.
Hey, that’d make an awesome gift, that’s for sure 👍
Wow $36 for that 80%lower…things changed quickly after this video
Yup 😏
Thats the exact same kit you get with Modulus arms
👍
Random but what table is that?
It was just a random rolling table I happened to have in the garage 🤷♂️
BIG DESIGN FLAWS!!!! Beware that this router jig & the Modulus Arms Extreme router jig cuts the trigger slot way out of specs. These cut the trigger slot .380 wide X .700 long. The trigger should be .312 wide X about .550 long. The trigger slot only needs to wide & long enough for the trigger to fit through with no gaps between the trigger & trigger slot per Mil-Spec. Also, the drill bushings are cheap & have a lot wobble if using a hand drill.
Someone sounds like a salesman 🧐 So what jig do you use?
@@CalebDowning Right now I'm in the process of designing a new top plate, side plates, drill bushings, & end mill to correct these design flaws so a person can mill out a lower receiver to Mil-Spec standards.
@@donaldhollingsworth3875 let us know please...
At this point I am trying out a lot of different fixtures & I'm I am also designing my own.As soon as I can design & 3D print the parts for fit , then I'll machine then I'll start producing my version of a AR15 lower jig. Some non critical parts may remain 3D printed to lower costs but not quality. I'll see in a couple of months.
@@donaldhollingsworth3875 so what happens if your trigger hole is out of spec? I milled mine and have no issues. Genuinely curious
What sized bits?
5/32 and 3/8 I believe.
I collect 80% Jigs. Ihave got my 80% cut time down to 1hr20mins.
Nice 👍 which jig would you say is the best value for what you get?
Caleb Downing 80% Arms is this best. I have done many AR10/AR9mm/AR15 all with the same jig and all came out flawless.
Hmm, makes me wish I had tried out the 80%Arms jig I got from school before I sold it.
I have both this jig and the 80% arms easy jig gen2. Even though it takes longer because you have to take lighter cuts, I like the easy jig gen 2 better.
@@1990notch Interesting,,, I have to keep that in mind for when they are back in stock
Those things call drill bushings.
👌
I am interest in this jig. Where are profile of cuts as routing into deeper cut.