Oil Painting Panels Canvas & Primers - Which are Best?
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- čas přidán 21. 04. 2020
- Oil Painting Panels Canvas & Primers - Which are the Best? Do you wonder what the best surface for oil painting is? Should you use linen or cotton canvas? Is acrylic gesso or lead oil primer best for oil paint? What about ACH aluminum or MDF panels - will they stand the test of time?
Each of these materials is discussed in detail.
Since this video was released, I have changed my stance on a few products. Gamblin's Oil Ground is excellent when I use thinner layers of one or two coats. More than that, and the surface becomes overly slick.
Gamblin's PVA size is superior to Rabbit Skin Glue and is recommended by conservators. It is not hygroscopic like RSG and does not swell and contract with moisture fluctuations. Gamblin's PVA size dries waterproof (I contacted Gamblin, and they verified it), it remains flexible, does not yellow, and you can paint directly on top of it without primer if you want.
Do not use any GAC medium under oil paints - they will cause the oil paints to crack.
If you would like to create your own ACH aluminum oil painting panels, look for a plastics or metal sign company like www.curbellplastics.com/Shop-...
For Natural Pigments Art Supplies: www.naturalpigments.com/oil-p...
To read updated, ongoing information, visit www.masteroilpainting.com/blog/ or join the Master Oil Painting Monthly Membership for only $9 a month and view dozens of full-length instructional videos and hours of other fine art instruction. It is the most informative and jam-packed oil painting instruction website in the world!
Learn more: masteroilpainting.com/
And because I love my CZcams folks, be sure to use Coupon Code 'CZcams' on the checkout page for 30% off the 6 Week Course!
Most of my landscape painting is alla prima or wet on wet and created from plein air studies, imagination and digital reference photos.
Training: masteroilpainting.com/
View Artwork: www.inmanfinearts.com/index.html
Facebook: / billinmanart
Blog: masteroilpainting.com/blog/
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About the Artist:
Learn from impressionist Bill Inman as he demonstrates how to breathe life into loose abstract color masses.
For more than 30 years he has been selling his work through galleries around the country as a full time artist.
He is classically trained with 5 years of figure and head drawing from the model; advanced pastel, watercolor and oil painting from life and holds an MFA in studio painting.
He is a recipient of the Congressional Art Award, has been featured in Southwest Art Magazine and has his work in collections around the world.
These colors and techniques generally apply equally well with oil or acrylic paint.
"My goal is to help viewers feel like they are looking out a window or doorway into a beautiful scene, one that beckons to forget the world a while and simply enjoy the peace and serenity, the incredible beauty Heavenly Father has provided."
Bill and his beautiful wife Kristie have 7 children and several grandchildren. "They are my deepest source of joy and inspiration!"
Enjoy, and Happy Painting!! - Jak na to + styl
One product I have changed my view on since this video is Gamblin's Oil Ground. I've been using it more and more. I was applying too many thick layers in the past, making it overly slick. One or two layers make a fantastic surface for oil painting. I also continue to use the lead grounds, but the oil ground is a strong contender. I greatly prefer them to an acrylic ground. I'm also more prone to gluing canvas (cotton duck or linen) to my panels in case the panel ever becomes damaged. I found out that the Home Depot 2x4 foot sheets of MDF do not contain formaldehyde. Many other MDF and wood products do, so you will want to research each panel independently. My favorite is ABS with canvas. The panel is nearly indestructible, and the canvas will prevent the possibility of plasticizers from affecting the painting. Other plastic panels, like plexiglass, are not recommended because they are brittle, especially in cold temperatures. ABS has a remarkable resilience to cold and heat - it will withstand temperatures ranging from -4 Fahrenheit to 212 degrees Fahrenheit. Actually, acrylic paints are also brittle in cold temperatures, so you don't want to let them get too cold or drop an acrylic painting when it's below freezing - that goes for acrylic gesso on canvas. In fact, you should avoid painting plein air with stretched canvas prepared with acrylic gesso. If you paint plein air (outdoors) in winter temps, use a lead or oil-primed canvas. If all you have is acrylic gesso, make sure it's on a solid panel. Also, I never use rabbit skin glue anymore. Gamblin's PVA size is superior in every way. It is waterproof (not hygroscopic like rabbit skin glue), it remains flexible, and we can paint directly on it if we don't want to use a gesso or primer. So, one or two coats on canvas, and we can paint straight onto the canvas without primer. I prefer a primer over the top since it is less absorbent and the paint glides better, but it's a great option for those avoiding the cost of primers or the solvents that many oil primers contain. It is easier to use than acrylic gesso and is safe for outdoor painting in cold temperatures. One other thing, I mentioned GAC 100 in the video: stay away from all GAC products for oil painting. Golden has changed their recommendation after extensive testing. In every test, the GAC products caused oil paints to crack. Acrylic gesso seems to be fine under oil paintings, but not many of the acrylic mediums.
Thank you so much for this excellent video. These concerns have actually been inhibiting me from painting. I'm just a beginner, but my experience finishing furniture has me concerned about all these types of practicalities. I don't want to get used to painting on something, start selling, and then find out that clients are having troubles down the line with adhesion or whatnot. A question for you: What do you use to glue your canvas to the ABS panel? I would assume that you sand to eliminate tooth, right? I'm using Centurion oil primed linen- would that stick well to the ABS panel? Thank you!
I appreciate the time you've taken not only to post your first video but also to post this additional research. I don't know of any perfect surface for oil painting - as you've said - and health and safety neurotics have made this more difficult, because they've made lead paint very, very difficult to obtain in Europe (drat them). It'll soon be time for me to buy some new panels, so this video has given me a lot to think about.
The best video about painting surface on CZcams
I am already sensitized to Formaldehyde. As a beginning painter, I started learning an important lesson after applying acrylic gesso to a few items in my kitchen a few weeks ago--having an allergic reaction within minutes. I learned from my experience and my follow-up "research" (that was surprisingly difficult to do!) that the "binder" in acrylic paints (and gesso) outgas-es Formaldehyde as it dries. The video did not mention this is any fashion. Not only is there no warning on the products themselves, there is none even on the "safety data sheets" of the acrylic paint products. The industry is well-familiar with their products, it simply chooses not to share what they know with the consumer. This is common in the food industry too, when it comes to many of the chemicals in our "food" which are there to help preserve it or to provide artificial flavor (such as artificial sweetness). It was evidently common in the tobacco industry too, so all of this shouldn't be too surprising. These big corporations have their own priorities (and consumer safety is probably only rarely first and foremost on their list). I hope this information is helpful. And I hope that it helps, in whatever small way, to create more awareness among the victims--I mean consumers. ; ) Bill Inman, I enjoyed your video, and found it informative! I just wanted to help fill the "gap" I observed (and described above).
liquitex gesso’s have no formadehyde. cheaper gesso’s and goldens gesso do have them.
that should solve your problem
@@johnster02 From what I've read, all acrylic mediums outgas formaldehyde as they dry. I'm not saying that this contradicts what you wrote; it's just a general fact that everyone who is using this stuff should be aware of. Cheers!
Thanks for your comment! I did not know that about acrylics and formaldehyde. I've learned that most wood products are steering away from formaldehyde, and all wood products made in the US are formaldehyde-free. I wonder if it is similar within the manufacturing of acrylics? I found a materials sheet that said the only Golden products that contain formaldehyde are a Silkscreen Fabric Gel, GAC 400, and GAC 900, but oil painters shouldn't use them for anything anyway - the GAC products including 100, cause oil paints to crack. Golden used to recommend them under oil paints for increased flexibility, but now they have changed their recommendation. They have done repeated tests that show immediate to long-term cracking.
The older I get the more brittle I become ...great easy flowing chat with tons of useful info...Thanks
Great advice. So good to reassure new painters to get out there and paint. Thank you. I have subscribed.
It's a great opportunity for me knowing all of those you shared Sir.. I'll be watching it often to remember everything.. So grateful..
Wow! Thank you for this great info, you answered alot of my questions!
Thank you so much for sharing your extended knowledge and thank you for encouraging all of us!
You're very welcome! I've studied a lot, but still feel like I know so little. I'm an artist, not a scientist, so figuring some of this out is daunting. I'm grateful artists are sharing their experiences so we can all learn from each other.
Thank you for being so generous with your knowledge and experience. It is extremely helpful.
I'm glad to hear you enjoyed it!
Thank you for doing the research and making it clear for us. I’ve been so confused about this stuff. I can start painting now 🙏😁
You're welcome. I'm glad to hear it was helpful!
I’ve been doing a lot of looking around. This is a very solid overview. Thanks.
Great to hear, thank you!
Masonite does not typically have formaldehyde in it. The process uses the natural lignin in the wood to bind the fibers together under heat and pressure. Also, the Masonite company no longer makes Masonite boards. Other companies now make this product. One of the most readily available forms of hardboard is a material called Eucaboard. Available at Home Depot. The manufacturer claims on its website that the product contains no formaldehyde. I think the formaldehyde in some boards is a byproduct of the adhesives used to bind those products together. A good reason to stay away from things like MDF and particleboard.
I contacted the conservator's dept of the National Gallery of Art in Washington DC. They told me that they feel Masonite style hardboard is a fine support for archival paintings if suitably sealed. The sealing advice is of course is true for any wood-based panel to prevent seepage and staining of the priming layer from tannins in the wood fibers. Sealing all sides and back also helps prevent warping from moisture fluctuation in the environment.
As a side note, I personally seal my hardboard with a 50/50 mixture of Galkyd and OMS, as recommended by the folks at Gamblin oil paints. Yes, I know, this process uses toxic mineral spirits, but you have to live dangerously sometimes. Anyway, lead is toxic too, so we all pick and choose what we are comfortable working with. Just work in a space with good ventilation and use a respirator rated for organic solvents.
Just wanted to clarify that most Hardboard, using the traditional method of fabrication, contains no formaldehyde.
Exactly the video I needed! Thank you!
Thank you SO much for all this great information!
Super information. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Great, informative video! I have been so concerned about what would be the most non-toxic oil painting surface to use that will not break down with age and your video helped me to decide on what would work for me.
Great to hear! I will do more videos now than I have for the past few years and update with any new info I learn.
This is amazing information! Thank you.
Great video very informative. I am restorer too. This has been very helpful
Thanks for this! Much appreciated.
Great video - learned a lot
Great information!! Txxx
I did my 1/4" marine plywood plus canvas cloth panel also with 50%flat and 50% semi-gloss latex
paints here in the Philippines
THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THIS!
This was great. Thx
Good color palette on his landscape stuff🙂
MUCHÍSIMAS GRACIAS por Responderme!!!!! Lo aprecio Mucho!!!! Muchas Gracias!!!😀😀😀
WOW! THANK YOU !!!!
One thing I have come to observe about worrying over surfaces and archival properties, most of the marketing is meant to get us artists all worked up over it to spend more money. In reality, most of us, we are not the next Monet or Van Gogh or even Andy Warhol. But by chance our art is still out there 100 or 200 years from now, and anyone cares about it, they will find a way to preserve it. So, just paint with and on what you enjoy and can afford. I personally prefer lead primed linen, just for the feel of it. I use RSG because it creates a tight surface, and I prime my canvas myself. It will last a hundred years just fine.
Great advice Ann! I agree wholeheartedly.
As an architectual graduate I find this fascinating. Look into low VOC , green star rated materials. Should be a good starting point .
Thanks for the great info!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for taking the time to put together this video. I'm noticing when looking at abs sheets the word haircell which somehow means texture would that be the same as sanding?
Nice followup.
Brilliant info 😊😊😊
Thanks for doing this video. I think will stay clear of all mdf and other wood by product manufactured supports now. Even for making linen glued panels. Am sticking with the tried and true stretched linen, rsg, and either titanium or lead oil primer. It may still have issues after many decades but if my work takes on such unexpected notoriety after I am long dead, some future conservation artist can repair it. And most interesting it takes acrylic gesso longer to dry. Good to know. Thanks
Just found this out. Acrylic paints also have formaldehyde. So, probably that and acrylic gesso has it in it as well as any pva glue. Food for thought.
Great comments, thanks. Have you considered Gamblin's PVA size instead of RSG? My research says that Gamblin's PVA size is superior to RSG because it dries waterproof and remains flexible. It does not contain formaldehyde or any other VOCs, and Gamblin says you can paint straight onto it without primer. I prefer lead or oil primer on top of the PVA because the paint glides better, but the PVA is an excellent sealer and easy to work with.
I looked at an MSD of Golden's acrylic products, and only 3 of them contained formaldehyde, none of which we would want to use with oil paints. Their acrylic paints did not contain formaldehyde. Did you see something that suggests differently? Also, Gamblin's PVA does not contain formaldehyde or anything else that would cause VOCs.
Excellent!
I love the Grumbacher Gesso
This is a great lesson - You are very well-read and experienced! I'm not asking for a long answer but I just came across an interesting product online, MDF board with a mahogany veneer. You mentioned that genuine mahogany was a good material - in a previous reply. The webshop I found describe their product as 0.6 mm mahogany veneer glued to MDF, I don't know if it would be any good for oil painting. For the foreseeable future I'll stick to heavy watercolor paper and acrylic gesso for my studies, and later try some of the options you have talked about here. Are there any instances of artist using a wood veneer on some other backing material? anyways thanks for the lesson!
I'm sorry I took so long to answer your question, Joachim. You've probably found an answer by now, but in case you haven't, I would avoid veneers. George Hanlon and others caution that veneers have a high possibility of developing cracks or seams. The problem with plywood, in general, is that the layers are contracting at different rates and directions, which causes the other layers to crack. If possible, stick with solid panels historically known to have the strongest resistance to warping and cracking. Or, at least, glue some canvas onto the panel so that if it cracks you can move the canvas to a new panel. Another option for your watercolor paper studies is Gamblin's PVA size - it is waterproof, and you can paint directly on top of it with oil paint without needing gesso.
Aluminum oxide creates a good tight structure, so once the aluminum oxide is on the aluminum surface, there isn't much oxygen penetrating to the underlayer of unoxidised aluminum which is probably why the company pre-oxidises them and then seals the panels. Other metals, for example iron oxidise into a porous, open structure like rust (iron oxide). By the way, I love your instructions! 🙂
Thank you! You know a lot more about metal oxidation than me it sounds like. It's tough to learn all the ins and outs of these materials. For many of the art materials people use, there isn't enough information to make confident decisions. I appreciate your willingness to share your knowledge with us.
Thank you so mch for sharing! There is moisture resistant MDF, would that be a better choice?
I use a oil or Acrylics based primer for my MDF from Home Depot called Gripper . I also can purchase here all my MDF in Idaho pure none of boards have chemicals what’s so ever .
No problems !!! I can texture my boards, or roll with cabinet roller super smooth . I go out side or the garage and do lots of boards at one time different sizes . My paint is never matte . I love painting on MDF is a lot less expensive than hundreds of dollars. Yes I have a handy hubby that is able to cut them .
But my lumber yard that carry’s the MDF will cut them for me if hubby’s fishing .
That’s amazing information. I like the ACM panels but have a few concerns. As you said the corners get damaged easily and there is no info on the longevity of polyester paint on the ACM panel.
What about gluing linen on ABS panel instead of ACM? Its cheaper then ACM panels, corners wont get damaged easily as ACM panels and we don’t have to worry about the pealing problem of ABS.
Sorry, this is so late, but YES, I wholeheartedly agree. That is my preference now. ABS is extremely durable in cold and hot temperatures, and the canvas on top will protect against possible plasticizers. That thought you had about polyester paint is a good one. We are learning more and more about products they thought were amazing, like GAC mediums under oil paint, only to find that they are terrible. We are probably better off avoiding new products like that for our oil paintings. The old products work just as well, and at least we know more about the possible downsides because there are hundreds of years (or at least decades) to see the results.
Thankyou so much for such useful information. I am looking for a surface for commission purpose and need to post it from Australia to India (via a friend) . I really like the idea of painting on Aluminium panel. However how do we frame it? Can it be done after I have painted over it? Coz I would prefer posting it without the frame to avoid the added weight to the parcel.
Thank you for sharing your experience and advice on using these supports. Have you had any experience using synthetic canvas, such as polyester?
I have heard great things from several pros about how great polyester is to oil paint on...if u can get some for decent price, I say ur golden! So does Virgil Elliott from "Traditional Oil Painting" book/FB group/forum
Thank You 🖌️
Excellent job 👏 well said, and agreed. Fellow oil painter here in Indiana north of Indy. Bout the try some lead ground from Rublev, got a big roll of oil primed linen but I keep hearing about how much better quality lead primer is. I have a bunch of aluminium as well, but its not ACM. its just sheet aluminium(I'm a tig welder) u think oil or lead primer, or linen, would mount well on regular aluminum sheets? Thanks bud for all the info!
Sorry for the delayed answer. As far as I have read, as long as you seal the aluminum, it will work well. Lead has advantages over oil ground, but oil ground is still an excellent primer for oil painting. Supposedly, lead particles will migrate from the primer into the paint layers over time, making them more flexible and stronger. If you like the oil ground for painting on, I wouldn't worry about covering it with lead - it's still a strong primer for oil paints. Save the lead for those times when you get an acrylic primed canvas or panel. But, if you paint on the lead and find you like it more, then cover all of your surfaces with it. It's a toss-up for me - they are both wonderful surfaces to paint on. What I changed with the oil ground is applying it more thinly and using only one or two coats. That seems to keep it from getting overly slick.
@masteroilpainting thanks lol ya I've dialed in what I like by now. 1 thin coat of lead primer rolled on with roller. Just enough to make the oil primed slickness have a slight tooth which, for whatever reason, I prefer. Thanks for the response! Lead primed linen ACM panels have been my favorite/cost effective way to have fun and make quality products. Good luck@
What sorts of problems can cradling cause for boards? (Thanks for this extremely informative video!)
Can you put lead primer on top of acrylic gesso or would there ever be a situation where that might be preferred? Thanks for the great videos. By the way, OMG there's so much information in this video!!! I've watched it like 5 times. :)
Yes, I highly recommend adding a layer of either lead or oil ground to acrylic gesso for oil painting. You will love the surface. It is so much easier to paint on lead or oil ground than on acrylic gesso because they are less absorbent and the paint glides smoothly. One layer should be all you will need. I'm glad to hear you enjoyed the video!
How would you hang the ACM panel on a gallery wall? Would you have to frame them?
Super informative and helpful. It is quite long and it would be good to put some topic time stamps
That's a great idea. Thank you for the suggestion!
My friend who has a phd in organic chemistry (so I trust his knowledge) says styrene butadiene is rubber. car tyre component. the info on plastisizers do come out earlier than later is real. Not a good idea for painting. thanks for the wonderful video
Bill, have you tried the Rublev lead oil paste ground? Did you have to thin it? Do you know what the difference is between the Rublev lead oil ground (not paste)? Thanks.
What is the problem with cradled plywood panels? I recently bought several sheets of 5x5 Baltic Birch and 4x8 Red Oak, 1/8" thick. With panels that thin, anything larger than 10" to 12" needs to be cradled to not bend. Also, I'm working now with some really cheap plywood and using exterior grade oil based polyurethane to finish off the back, front and sides, which should be an airtight seal. I've done one painting directly on the ployurethane and the paint seems to adhere well. But am also going to try using rabbit skin glue and authentic gesso over the polyurethane. I also have some 1/4" thick panels, but even 18x24 will require cradling. What is your objection to cradling?
Hi Bill, Thank you so much for taking the time for such a thorough and detailed explanation. At this point in my
nascent painting career, I very much doubt that my work warrants the expense of the aluminum or abs plastic supports.
I had also heard that the reason that old paintings can be removed from their support is that they are on either canvases
or panels where the support is first coated with rabbit skin glue, then authentic gesso and/or lead white primer.
Apparently, slightly heating the work softens the rabbit skin glue allowing the painting to be peeled off of the support
and to then be applied to a new, more enduring support. I'll re-research that and see if I can find out how long before the
plywood starts to degrade and add conservation instructions to the certificate of authentication when I start selling work,
until I can start getting the type of commission to make the better supports viable for me.
What do you think of Arches oil paper for oil painting?
Do you recommend 'Talens' for the acrylic gesso? :)
Talens and Liquitex Pro make really good gesso. I discovered oil ground awhile back and absolutely love the smoother texture, not as absorbent as gesso.. also I bought a bag of fredrix marble dust from Jerry's Artarama for $10 to add to the primers to make them adhere better to the canvas/panel, and add little more tooth to the primer. Anyway, good luck and happy painting!
The "Eucaboard" hardboard Home Depot sells says no formaldehyde added. It is so cheap it is tempting to buy ($8.87 for 4ft by 8ft!) I don't know how it compares to other kinds of MDF or plywood, though.
I’ve been using this for 15 years. Never had any issues with it. I have them cut it into four 2ft by 4ft pieces so it’s easier to transport. Then I cut it into desired panel sizes at home. I think I get around 30 panels out of one sheet, so it’s definitely the most economical solution I’ve found.
@@arachosia Great! Thanks for the feedback. I may try it. I was planning on getting into painting after Christmas, after I get more supplies.
Acrylic take about two full weeks to "stabilize" or go from green, to fully cured, and even after that the acrylic shrinks as it ages... This is the main reason old house paint will crack after about 20 years... yes latex is actually cheaper grade acrylic base with plasticizers...
We live in Rochester IN!!!!!
Do you use the lead primer straight out of the can or do you thin it down and what would you thin it with?
Can I ask how long does it take your paintings to cure in Indiana? Here in maine it’s humid but also cold. My first oil painting is not showing signs of curing after a few days
you should debate Stephen Bauman about the plastic canvas I'd LOOOOOVE to learn from that debate!
Hahaha yess! :) Stefan would make me laugh, with his dramatic passionate stance. And the best vests lol
the thickness of abs panel is 3 mm ?
😂 Too much information to fast. I'll have to watch a few times more my brother. Thank you for your time & resurch. I'm just being my journey but in a short time (from last November) I'm learning a lot from vids like yours Alhumdulila. 🤔✌️😆🥴🤣💥🌞 oh yes we use oils and now inks acrylics & oils on top.
Hello, excellent video!!!!! But get me out of a DOUBT I don't want to paint on a frame, nor on a board. I want to paint on canvas just like It Comes. What happens if I don't "STRETCH" the canvas to Paint? Is it so NECESSARY to "STRETCH IT"? Is it so IMPORTANT to STRETCH IT? Will it affect you over the years? I want my paintings to last as long as possible in Time!!! I must forcefully STRETCH IT!!!! 😀 Thank you very much 😊😊😊
Great advice to wear a mask and have good ventilation with solvents. However I don't think it's a good suggestion to use LEAD BASED anything... media or substrate. Encaustic gesso on panels (Rabbit skin glue and plaster.) Is the best and most firm ground for thick impasto or encaustic I know of. Use panels, they're fun to build and you can do uber thick layer of oils, wax, resins etc.
Thanks for the comments. I'm curious about your resistance to lead. Would you share more details about why you suggest we avoid it? I've used true gesso in the past (rabbit skin glue/plaster) and was not a fan. It is highly absorbent and if dropped or flexed can crack and fall apart. I had a large 30x40 on a wood panel with historical gesso and a large chunk of the plaster cracked and fell off. Just like with the other panels I discussed which all have downsides, that doesn't mean it's always going to crack, so that's not to steer anyone who likes the surface away from it, but it's low on my list. A better substitute for rabbit skin glue today is Gamblin's PVA size. Rabbit skin glue is hygroscopic (it absorbs moisture - always) which causes the glue to hydrate and dry repeatedly throughout the life of the painting. That in turn leads to increased cracking of the paint. Gamblin's PVA size is waterproof, remains flexible, and protects the canvas better than rabbit skin glue. Other PVA glues are not waterproof, Gamblin's is the only one I know that is (I contacted Gamblin to verify). I agree with you, building panels and trying different effects and materials is fun!
I'm using arteza canvas and what oil paint gloss.? Primer
OK so no turpentine or Odorless turps , how do you clean your brushes then????? That’s all I use it for .
I use Linseed oil too thin my paint down whenever I need it .
Masonite is sold with and without treatment, oil treated to prevent water damage.
And there is a wide range of hardboard products, from those without any residual oils to those with an oil-rich surface.
I had an MDF panel stored in my studio (garage) that in just a few weeks, got covered in a green and black mold coat.. it was truly scary to see it happen as I've just moved to a very humid region. I wonder how should I prime the back of my MDF panel, in order to prevent all my future work from deteriorating? 😪
Wow, that's not something I've encountered. I have MDF panels in my studio that are at least 10 years old and haven't had problems. The ECOS primer I mentioned in the video should help with something like that, but I'm not experienced enough with mold to know for sure. It sounds like the type of mold that comes from excessive moisture, and I'm not sure anything will prevent that entirely except for keeping the panels in a less humid area. Please let us know if you learn anything about the cause and cure.
Google talks about abs panels and said paint will peel off without preparing the surface
Where in Indiana do you get your ABS plastic, and what exactly do you ask for? (I'm in Indiana too)
I get mine from Regal Plastics - regalplastic.com, 8227 Northwest Boulevard, Suite 240, Indianapolis, IN 46278
So if you're an oil painter, how do you avoid turps? Cleaning brushes etc
Walnut oil for cleaning up brushes or white out the paint and use Murphys oil soap
No solvent no turpentine , but what we wash out brush with ?
Another drawback of MDF is that you must be VERY careful not to breath the dust when cutting it. A lot of people take the saw to it without realizing it’s not like wood dust. It’s extremely dangerous to breathe the fine dust. They won’t cut the big sheets at my local Home Depot because of that.
That's a great point, thank you for cautioning us about that!
Hi! You mentioned that there could be a problem with cradled panels. I have used Ampersand cradled panels for years and I have never had a problem with them. I felt they prevented the wood from warping. What type of problems have you seen with them? thank u.
Excellent question Peter. I haven't personally had any trouble with them, maybe because I've only used one of their cradled panels years ago. I added that caution based on reports from conservators about cradled panels in general, not Ampersand in particular. The cradle tends to expand and contact at different rates from the panel and causes issues with the painting. If they are working for you, my personal opinion is to keep moving forward with what you like to use. George Hanlon from Natural Pigments has some great information about it, and Mitra I believe, but it's been a few years since I studied it, so I will need to revisit it to refresh my memory. I study from so many conservator sources, I don't remember off hand the best research on the topic.
I make my own cradled panels: gluing Masonite to 1x2 common pine. It’s worked great for panels under 36” on any side for over 45 years. Acrylic over gesso after sealing panel front and back with PVA. However, most recently a 48x78” panel warped significantly! I back-primed panel and pine with shellac, front of panel with gesso and painted acrylic art over!
what thickness ABS do you use?
@@masteroilpainting thanks Bill ill go for a sheet of 6mm (1/4 inch)
What about solid wood. What kind of primer can be used on solid wood
With oil paint you don't have to prime it - oil paint can be used directly on the wood. You might want to seal the wood though to protect it from moisture that might affect it over time. Oil paints rot plants like linen and cotton, but not wood - oil is used to condition wood. I'm no longer a fan of painting directly onto a panel though, I am now adhering canvas to panels so that if the panel is damaged the painting can be removed and attached to a different panel.
I’ve been buying oil prime linen boards, do I need to still gesso?
No! You can't put gesso over oil primed linen.
@@Tonal236 lol 😆 hopefully u caught him in time, before he ruins his perfectly good linen panel!
Hola , Excelente Vídeo!!!!! Pero Sácame de una DUDA No quiero pintar sobre Bastidor, Ni sobre tabla. Quiero pintar sobre lienzo así como Viene. ¿Qué pasa si no "ESTIRO" el lienzo para Pintar? Es tan NECESARIO "ESTIRARLO"? Es tan IMPORTANTE ESTIRARLO? Le afectará con el paso de los Años??? Quiero que mis pinturas perduren lo más que pueda en el Tiempo!!! Debo forzosamente ESTIRARLO!!!! 😀 Muchísimas Gracias 😊😊😊
Puedes pintar sobre lienzo como viene, pero luego que se seque la pintura y quieras estirarlo en bastidor corres el riesgo que la pintura se cuartee o agriete. La solución sería pegar el lienzo a un panel (si es pequeño) o exhibir la pintura con argollas como una tapete de pared.
masonite does not have formaldehyde, that is medium density fibreboard which is usually lighter color, masonite is glued thanks to its own lignin that with steam and high pressure becomes liquid flows and glues things together, lignin does degrade more than phenol formaldehyde (the one with urea in the place of phenol is the water soluble crap) and can be eaten by termites, anyways we are talking of years of bad conservation
You say that hardboard will leak out oils and draw in moisture so it is not good to use for a painting. So priming these boards with GAC 100 or good quality Gesso, before you paint on it, doesn't prevent this?
Wondering about GAC 100 and then adding oil ground after it dries
Hi! Not all hardboards even contain oils. As for GAC 100, it can be used to create a barrier layer between the wood and an acrylic primer to prevent the lignin and tannin from migrating into the ground, but won't be an effective, long-term moisture blocker. The easiest way to avoid issues is to keep the work in a consistent environment. If you still have concerns, pigmented shellac (on the side edges and back) can block moisture.
Viewers should know that the most dangerous thing to do with a lead primed surface is to sand it. Lead is most hazardous when airborne. If left intact, however, it presents a little danger.
I think less plastic is better were we dont need them.
No doubt. I love the 'indestructible' nature of ABS, but the overabundance of plastic in the world does keep me searching for better alternatives. Lately, I've been attaching canvas to ACM (aluminum) panels. That way if the panel is dropped I can transfer the painting to another panel. Although, ACM still has a plastic middle, so it doesn't reduce the use of plastic. I wish there was a perfect art panel or substrate, but alas, they all have fatal flaws.
The word Canvas originated from cannabis, as it was traditionally made from hemp and linen. No joke. I hear him say "no problems with Cannabis" LOL.
With all due respect, you shouldn't be claiming that lead ground is non toxic. It's incredibly toxic and banned in Europe for this reason.
Oh please. It's only dangerous if you sand it or eat it. Any artist that is serious enough to use lead white ground will absolutely know the risks. I guarantee you that human beings' daily habits are doing far more damage to the environment than artists' use of lead white.
Wait cradling is bad? I thought it was important to cradle boards. Explain yourself! 😁
nothing against china? mmm