Thank you for taking time making videos for us, it's much appreciated! 1 - Might want to double check on the turbo wait time; maybe talk to a service tech at your dealership, shouldn't have any wait time before shutting down - Maybe after long periods of high RPM and hard pulling, but not under normal circumstances . 2 - Your lower arms (3 pt hitch) have telescopic end links which gives a bit of leeway when connecting implements - They could be in the outermost position; if so, use the latch on the underside of end link and slide them back in, this should give you more room to pull in threads on top link. it does seem to be threaded out more than what I'm used to. All of the above may very well be for naught; if so, I hope you're able to find a solid fix for those issue - Little annoyances add up quick. Again, thank you for the videos!
I use a Box Blade as a counter weight and helps the tractor on hills/slopes with stability since you can lower box blade height as needed. Also, the box blade is a very useful for doing any dirt work, making trails, leveling, moving dirt etc. For your MX6000, the LandPride BB3584 would be good size and weighs 853 pounds and much more useful than wheel weights especially if you have fluid filled rear tires.
Thanks for the input! I actually started looking into box blades as we have about 4 miles of trails through the woods, a gravel driveway and the orchard rows...each one needs some smoothing and grading.
Thanks for sharing your review on the kubota . I looked at them and other ones to see all the different features, there is a lot. Yea will weights are $$$ I ended up with a tym cab tractor I do a review on it soon. And I think I got a solution for my tractor if it works I’ll share it with everyone. Thanks again for sharing.
Thanks Steve! We liked the TYM tractors too but we've had unfavorable interactions with our local dealer in the past (with other services they offer) so we crossed them off the list. If your solution for your tractor doesn't work out you should share that too so we don't make the same solution...especially if it is humorous!
I use my EA 8’ boxblade at all times. I got the real heavy one. 1400#s as I didn’t want to spend money on just ballast, except to fill the rear tires. Nice review. My wife had a 1954 Ford 640 when I met her. Sweet tractor with only 130 hrs on it.
Thanks for watching/subscribing and commenting! Your EA boxblade sounds to be about the perfect weight for good ballast. I have to ask, jokingly...if your wife didn't have a sweet tractor when you met her would you still have married her? 🤣
@@southernadirondackoutdoors Ben, that is actually a story you likely would find amazing. Our Father told me in a audible clear voice that she would be my wife before I had actually met her. She is a farm-girl / horsey girl through and through. So I was knocked over and learned how to listen hard. Amazing lady
That was a good review Paul. I sometimes think about the day when I will need or just decide to replace my old Massey. I like how you showed a lot of the safety features and things that can get in the way in real world use. I know I will have to weigh the options between having a nice new tractor and all of those things that I know will annoy me and get in the way of what I want to do. But I have an idea if I got a new tractor, I would probably wonder why I didn’t do it sooner.
Thanks Michael! So far I like it but I'm worried that if something breaks that it'll be a call to the dealer to fix as it is much more involved than say an old Ford or Massey. Hopefully this one will take the abuse tractors tend to receive but probably won't take it as well as old iron.
Thanks! I may do a follow-up as it seems I concentrated on the negatives. Many years ago I went to a Jeep Jamboree in the UP, Drummond Island, nice area you have up there!
Nice review, You can buy longer top links, I've got multiple from tractor supply rural king and agri-supply local dealers etc. you may just have to do the looking yourself and don't ask the sales people they usually won't have a clue what you are talking about. Tool box location, mount to the loader frame ( weld or bolt loader only has a 2 year standard warranty anyway), on either or both sides and pick a good metal tool box of your choice. They also make chainsaw holders that bolt on the loader mounts. The clicking sound in the cab is the flasher relay for the halogen hazard lights you can eliminate it by going to aftermarket LED hazard lights it's in the dash or under left console (I think). sway-bar pins I take the bottom pins out when i get new tractors and I have not had one jump out, don't worry about it. Also rear weight and tire chain clearance. Set your tires out wider and the clearance will increase and wheel weights are your best friend when not wanting to add length to your tractor, I think you can put about 4 on each side 1 inside the wheel and 3 outside most of the time. Isn't the cheap route (that's the barrel of concrete). Also speaking of that If you weld you can make you concrete barrel that has a hook or hitch on the back of it as you build the barrel and then you can pull or drag with the barrel attached and still have the weight.
Thanks for the input! I did find chains I can use without widening out the stance, I just have to make sure to keep them tight and secure any extra links. I'll search for a longer top link...I know what you mean about asking an employee 🤣 Thanks again, Paul.
I have the MX6000 and love it too. Newbie on tractors but would buy again. Filler on top of hood means that I use a pump to put diesel in tank. Fuel gauge is way off. 'Empty' still has 6 gallons. I have moved up the lower arms to the upper hole to get more height but have the top link in the middle hole. This is long enough.
Thanks for watching and commenting! I have been suspicious of the gauge myself. I rarely let it get below half a tank (according to the gauge) and I don't recall the tank size but when it says half and I put a five gallon can in it shouldn't go up to full like it does.
Thanks! I'm hoping it will outlast me! (Knocks on wood) A cab tractor isn't the best woods tractor but it is nice to climb in after a hot day of cutting firewood and crank the AC.
Just a suggestion about that 3 pt toplink (9:05). There are 3 mounting holes for the toplink on the back of the tractor. You are using the highest one. If you switch to one of the other holes, you should gain an additional 1-2 inches on the length of the toplink. That does change the lift geometry a little, so the stop on the lift lever in the cab may need to be adjusted.
Good, informative video Paul. I have an800 lb weight box I use for extra weight. It takes up the 3 point hitch which is NOT good. Wheel weights are $$$$$$$$$$$$$; that's why I don't have them. I ran a friends tractor with a cab for less than 10 minutes before I hated it; too hot, no air. Again, good video. Dave
Nice video... I have the same tractor with 500 hours on it. I have a speeco quick attach Im selling because I have to modify attachments for it to work. I recommend Pats EZ hitch cat 1. So much easier than lining up holes to pins. I have also learned to open the right hand door for access when I am putting something on the 3 point hitch. It beats saying @#$% every time I have to walk around the tractor to reach the control lever.
My first tractor is also a Ford work master. Used to be an electric company tractor and has a big winch on the back. I’ll have to do a video on that tractor later. They are great tractors.
Old fords seem to have been used/modified for many purposes. I would love to see that winch and its mounting. I don't recall if I said it in the video, but my ford's first life was as a golf course mower for around 30 years so I'm sure it has many hours on it...proofmeter hasn't worked since we got it in the early 90's. Thanks for watching!
A quick hitch for your three point is worth its weight in gold. I also just got a hydraulic top link for it and wish I would have bought one years ago. With both of those you only have to get out once to lock the hitch when hooking to implements.
Thanks for the input! I've been thinking about a quick hitch...have you had any issues with pto shafts being to short after putting on the quick hitch?
@southernadirondackoutdoors No. Most implements are quick hitch compatible. I would highly recommend the hydraulic top link also. They aren't cheap, but they're really handy. Plus, you will always have it once you buy it. If you trade tractors, just put the old one back on and keep the hydraulic one for the new tractor.
I have two of these, both get the right door handle from a L6060, two reasons, one to help putting on an implement and two if you accidentally lock the drivers side door when you get out with it running, don't ask how I know!! Unfortunately that door handle is over $400, next must do is rotate the loader handle as the way it is, hits your knee and easy to hit when you turn to your right looking back. Just pull up the rubber boot, loosen the nut and rotate handle. Air seat, just a must for me as the stock one is entirely too rough and has too low of sitting position. Lastly a steering knob is a must.
Thanks for watching and commenting! I usually hit the stupid (as I would call it when it happens) loader lock switch getting out the right side door and when I get back in it takes me a moment to figure out what I did. I've never had a steering knob but maybe its time to try one...growing up my father always said 'keep your thumbs out of the steering wheel as if you hit a stump the steering wheel will spin fast and break them'. This was before power steering and I guess I applied that thought to steering knobs as well.
I love mine - one of the 1st things I did was add a control to raise and lower the 3pt arms while standing behind it. I hated having to get back in it to make a minor adjustment.
Tip, when filling the fuel. Cut a milk jug in half and with the opening and handle part of the jug screw or press the jug in the opening of the fuel tank.I take off the stupid spout of the gas can and just pour the fuel in. It is 10xs faster and minimum spillage. the snow chain problem can be solved by taking back tires off and turning them around to make tires wider.
Thanks for the input! I do the same with the @%#$! spout on the new cans. I use a big old metal funnel that was designed to screw onto the old style metal tanks. While it doesn't screw onto this tank it still fits ok. I found some chains that do the job without having to turn the tires around. They are not the best but do the job and as long as I keep the extra links wired back they don't hit anything.
Great and very helpful video. I have been looking at this tractor (which would be my 3rd Kubota) and on one hand I really like it, but the three point hitch set up really is quite poor imo and the controls within the cab/cab set up including the right side door/latch are far less than ideal. I may have to consider the fancier comparable L series that I was hoping to avoid with the very expensive transmission...
I'm glad you found it helpful! I've gotten used to the right side door and even remember to unlatch it before I get out to hookup 3 point implements...just took me awhile to get used to it but I still may get the latch mentioned in the other comments. Of all the internal controls the one I still do not care for is the HST pedal for snowblowing backing up, the rest of the controls just took time to get used to. Good luck on your search!
Thanks for the input! I found some chains that work with the clearance I have. They are not as aggressive as I would have preferred, but they get the job done. I couldn't move the rear tires out as the tire width would have been wider than the snowblower. Thanks for watching!
I enjoyed the review Paul, but I would like to see another review when the snow is up to the tractor doors and -20 with the wind howling. And maybe with a chunk of slab wood stuck in the auger of the snow blower 🤔😉
It has seen about a foot and a half so far. No wood yet but it does shoot gravel and dirt well...at least until I figured out what angle to adjust the top link to! I'll be picking gravel out of the lawn in the spring. That reminds me, I have to find where I put the shear bolts!
@@southernadirondackoutdoors I had one mounted on my Massey 65 years ago. Love to eat kids 🚲 and toys left out before the snow.🙄 At least you won't have that problem....
I have the mx5400 with a cab. I ordered a right hand door handle from messick’s. Now I can open the door from outside and adjust 3ph. The 5400&6000 share the same cab. Cost around $350 but worth it in long run. Enjoyed your video!
Glad you enjoyed the video and thanks for the tip, I'll check it out...it's a pain in the neck to walk up to the right side and then say @%#$ and walk around to the other side! 😁
Yes, a barn was on the list this year but..🤔didn't happen 🤣 I'm actually down one tractor. Had an identical Ford 641 that I sold to my cousins as it was their fathers tractor. Currently thinking of options on the other Fords, also have attachments that need a new home...perhaps I'll have a Southern Adirondack Outdoors garage sale!
Thanks for the video. If you run a synthetic oil, you dont need to cool of the turbo, syn oil wont coke the bearings. On your rear top link can you flip one of the brackets to fit a wider top link?
Unless you are on pavement quite a bit you should have R1 (ag) tires and you won't need tire chains. Also have your rear tires filled with appropriate fluid for your climate.
I had given thought to the R-14 but stayed with the R-4 because I wanted the heavy wall. In my case the chains go on in winter regardless so they offered no real benefit to me. The tire clearance you have would be concerning to me. I have an older model with 17.5 and have an easy 5 or more inches of clearance. I just changed out rims on one of my Kubota .....Kubota wanted 800 and change for each rim so after digging around I replaced them with blue tractor rim for a whole lot less. Which makes me wonder about wheel weights.
The only chains I found that might work with the tight clearances are Aqualine MPC chains but even still it would be close and if they got loose trouble could happen. I've been looking for front chains but the tires seem to be an odd size so none this winter...hopefully tires only will do it!
Thank you! I have a problem getting rid of tractors 😁 When the window is cracked open I can fully open it from the outside and I tried once to get to the lever which I believe was all the way down and my fingertips just brushed the lever so it might work if it was in a middle-ish position. Thanks for watching!
those cutting edges on buckets make a huge difference. i have a tym t494 on Canadarago lake just north of cooperstown. you must be in booneville - barneveld area or just north of utica. i had a 2500 lb yanmar sa324 then i got the t494 6500 lbs with rimguard. i can do real work with large frame tractor. i use a fransgard 950 log grapple for firewood. you can get a hydraulic top link for $250 with hoses and fittings. 100% you will not regret hydraulic top link. look under spare parts holland. 20 7/8 - 31 7/8 fits my t494 yours should be similar size.
When I was in the market for a new tractor I looked at TYM's and liked them but for me the dealer was too far. The cutting edges do make a world of difference and help stiffen the bucket lip. 1/2 hour NE of Utica.
I have 600 hrs on mine and had to replace all front-end loader seals right after purchase as they weeped down too fast, and my front wheel bearings and seals at 500 hrs. The regen is a real pain. You need to get creative to get a spot to mount tool boxes. I jb welded a bracket on the side of the front-end lower to mount amo boxes. That worked good.
I'm just shy of 400hrs, did the 400 hour service yesterday before winter sets in. Luckily I haven't had the problems you had...knock on wood! I agree on the regen, it seems to come on just when you don't want it to. Thanks for watching and I may have an update on the tractor soon.
i use a 600 lb box blade and rim guard for ballast . calcium is 8 lbs/gal rim guard is 11 lbs/gallon. those rims are big $$ check into it destroying rims if you plan to keep it many years.
I don't recall what I said in the video the tires were filled with, I may have said calcium in a generic way, they were filled at the dealer with the rim guard.
go with pats easy hitch and hydraulic top link. this works with everything. i got a mech. fuel inj with no turbo . simple is better since i am the one working on it. pats is 200-250$
I don't know if this would help in your situation but I sometimes stick my foot UNDER the front of the pedal and lift to go in reverse. Since it's a rocker pedal, there's no problem doing this and you then don't need to hunt for the reverse pedal when you're concentrating on watching the back of the tractor.
@@southernadirondackoutdoors I can't claim credit, this is what our Kubota dealer suggested to us. I suppose it could be more difficult with snow boots on though. But I definitely find this really helpful in the summer. Fine adjustments back and forth are a breeze this way.
I ended up getting rear chains. Without chains they work good in non-hard packed snow. With my driveway being uphill and gravel I have to pack a base before snowblowing and things get interesting pretty quickly both going up and down. That said, R1's do the same on hard packed snow.
The tires were the toughest choice when ordering the tractor. If I had to do it again I would go with ag tires. I've found the ones I have to be ok and haven't been unable to do something because of them but the ag tires would give more confidence. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@southernadirondackoutdoors I love the flail mower it mulch’s the grass and sticks and leaves the nice stripes on the field. It also offsets to get close to the stone walls and field edges.
@@kalevalasouthfarm I've had to stick with brushhogs because of the stuff that was in the field but now that we got the ugly stuff out I should be able to run a flail...perhaps a new piece for next year!
I have the Kubota L4701, it's a similar sized tractor to what you have without the cab. Watching your video I don't see any reason why you can't turn to the right when blowing snow. It's so much easier to use the hydrostatic pedal.
Yes, it is possible to turn to the right and it is easier to use the pedal and the controls for the rear remotes for the snowblower chute. I tried it for awhile and I guess old habits are hard to break. It just felt weird/wrong but I'll give it another shot. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Replace top link with a hydraulic cylinder if you have a hydraulic remote on the back. If no remote use a portapower either manual or electric powered use power to bring closer to tractor and gravity to extend to desired adjustment.
Your turning around the wrong way if you turn around the right way then it is ergonomic and you will also be in better position to use every single other control in the tractor as well. Best wishes!!
Interesting thought, I'll try it! I guess I just got into the habit of turning left and stuck with it. It had never occurred to me to try the other way...old habits die hard!🤣
It came down to dealer location. I do business with both dealers and both are great but the Kubota dealer was a shorter drive through the country versus a longer drive going through a few villages and a city. Are you looking at both machines? Thanks for watching!
@@andreww4885 I liked the Massey but at the time there were 'supply issues'. That dealer is also a New Holland dealer and I think I spent more time comparing the Workmaster series to the Kubota.
Thanks for watching and commenting! Yes, spacers would do the job but unfortunately my snowblower just barely covers the width of the tires as it sits now. I should have bought a wider snowblower but with the supply issues I was lucky to find a 6 footer.
I was just about to buy one of these yesterday, paperwork was about to be signed, then I learned the sad truth about these….THEY CAN NOT TAKE A BACKHOE ATTACHMENT. What the hell Kubota why
Yup. I have one for the New Holland so it wasn't a deal breaker for me. I guess it is a matter of space on the cab model but it still seems like they could have come up with some solution! Thanks for watching!😀
Yeah, I got talking on the not good and suddenly realized that I hadn't said anything good about it yet and went into a little brain panic. It's at 240 or so hours now and I've gotten accustomed to most of the questionable things I pointed out. No mechanical issues so far! Maybe I should do a follow-up video now that I've had more seat time. Thanks for watching and commenting! Paul
I admit, going backwards isn't very enjoyable but I also weigh how much I want to spend for the 'joy' of doing snow removal myself versus paying the neighbor to plow. Once we reach the price tag of a front mount blower it would make more sense to take that money and pay the neighbor to plow for many years...and if I had a front mounted one I would probably get carried away and do our three miles of trails in the woods 🤣
Thank you for taking time making videos for us, it's much appreciated!
1 - Might want to double check on the turbo wait time; maybe talk to a service tech at your dealership, shouldn't have any wait time before shutting down - Maybe after long periods of high RPM and hard pulling, but not under normal circumstances .
2 - Your lower arms (3 pt hitch) have telescopic end links which gives a bit of leeway when connecting implements - They could be in the outermost position; if so, use the latch on the underside of end link and slide them back in, this should give you more room to pull in threads on top link. it does seem to be threaded out more than what I'm used to.
All of the above may very well be for naught; if so, I hope you're able to find a solid fix for those issue - Little annoyances add up quick. Again, thank you for the videos!
Your welcome and I'm glad you enjoyed the video! I have become accustomed to some of those little annoyances and still love the tractor.
I use a Box Blade as a counter weight and helps the tractor on hills/slopes with stability since you can lower box blade height as needed. Also, the box blade is a very useful for doing any dirt work, making trails, leveling, moving dirt etc. For your MX6000, the LandPride BB3584 would be good size and weighs 853 pounds and much more useful than wheel weights especially if you have fluid filled rear tires.
Thanks for the input! I actually started looking into box blades as we have about 4 miles of trails through the woods, a gravel driveway and the orchard rows...each one needs some smoothing and grading.
Thanks for sharing your review on the kubota . I looked at them and other ones to see all the different features, there is a lot. Yea will weights are $$$ I ended up with a tym cab tractor I do a review on it soon.
And I think I got a solution for my tractor if it works I’ll share it with everyone. Thanks again for sharing.
Thanks Steve! We liked the TYM tractors too but we've had unfavorable interactions with our local dealer in the past (with other services they offer) so we crossed them off the list. If your solution for your tractor doesn't work out you should share that too so we don't make the same solution...especially if it is humorous!
I use my EA 8’ boxblade at all times. I got the real heavy one. 1400#s as I didn’t want to spend money on just ballast, except to fill the rear tires. Nice review. My wife had a 1954 Ford 640 when I met her. Sweet tractor with only 130 hrs on it.
Thanks for watching/subscribing and commenting! Your EA boxblade sounds to be about the perfect weight for good ballast. I have to ask, jokingly...if your wife didn't have a sweet tractor when you met her would you still have married her? 🤣
@@southernadirondackoutdoors Ben, that is actually a story you likely would find amazing. Our Father told me in a audible clear voice that she would be my wife before I had actually met her. She is a farm-girl / horsey girl through and through. So I was knocked over and learned how to listen hard. Amazing lady
I love my 8' rear blade but it is an awkward size when working in close quarters.
That was a good review Paul. I sometimes think about the day when I will need or just decide to replace my old Massey. I like how you showed a lot of the safety features and things that can get in the way in real world use. I know I will have to weigh the options between having a nice new tractor and all of those things that I know will annoy me and get in the way of what I want to do. But I have an idea if I got a new tractor, I would probably wonder why I didn’t do it sooner.
Thanks Michael! So far I like it but I'm worried that if something breaks that it'll be a call to the dealer to fix as it is much more involved than say an old Ford or Massey. Hopefully this one will take the abuse tractors tend to receive but probably won't take it as well as old iron.
Very thorough, relatively subjective video. Thank you for posting this.
Thanks! I may do a follow-up as it seems I concentrated on the negatives. Many years ago I went to a Jeep Jamboree in the UP, Drummond Island, nice area you have up there!
Nice review, You can buy longer top links, I've got multiple from tractor supply rural king and agri-supply local dealers etc. you may just have to do the looking yourself and don't ask the sales people they usually won't have a clue what you are talking about. Tool box location, mount to the loader frame ( weld or bolt loader only has a 2 year standard warranty anyway), on either or both sides and pick a good metal tool box of your choice. They also make chainsaw holders that bolt on the loader mounts. The clicking sound in the cab is the flasher relay for the halogen hazard lights you can eliminate it by going to aftermarket LED hazard lights it's in the dash or under left console (I think). sway-bar pins I take the bottom pins out when i get new tractors and I have not had one jump out, don't worry about it. Also rear weight and tire chain clearance. Set your tires out wider and the clearance will increase and wheel weights are your best friend when not wanting to add length to your tractor, I think you can put about 4 on each side 1 inside the wheel and 3 outside most of the time. Isn't the cheap route (that's the barrel of concrete). Also speaking of that If you weld you can make you concrete barrel that has a hook or hitch on the back of it as you build the barrel and then you can pull or drag with the barrel attached and still have the weight.
Thanks for the input! I did find chains I can use without widening out the stance, I just have to make sure to keep them tight and secure any extra links. I'll search for a longer top link...I know what you mean about asking an employee 🤣 Thanks again, Paul.
I have the MX6000 and love it too. Newbie on tractors but would buy again. Filler on top of hood means that I use a pump to put diesel in tank. Fuel gauge is way off. 'Empty' still has 6 gallons. I have moved up the lower arms to the upper hole to get more height but have the top link in the middle hole. This is long enough.
Thanks for watching and commenting! I have been suspicious of the gauge myself. I rarely let it get below half a tank (according to the gauge) and I don't recall the tank size but when it says half and I put a five gallon can in it shouldn't go up to full like it does.
Nice review.. a bucket list tractor for me..
Thanks! I'm hoping it will outlast me! (Knocks on wood) A cab tractor isn't the best woods tractor but it is nice to climb in after a hot day of cutting firewood and crank the AC.
Just a suggestion about that 3 pt toplink (9:05). There are 3 mounting holes for the toplink on the back of the tractor. You are using the highest one. If you switch to one of the other holes, you should gain an additional 1-2 inches on the length of the toplink. That does change the lift geometry a little, so the stop on the lift lever in the cab may need to be adjusted.
Interesting idea. I'll try it in the spring. Thanks for watching!
Good, informative video Paul. I have an800 lb weight box I use for extra weight. It takes up the 3 point hitch which is NOT good. Wheel weights are $$$$$$$$$$$$$; that's why I don't have them. I ran a friends tractor with a cab for less than 10 minutes before I hated it; too hot, no air.
Again, good video.
Dave
Thanks Dave. I was surprised how hot it got in the cab without air! On the plus side, no sneezing while brush hogging.
Nice video... I have the same tractor with 500 hours on it. I have a speeco quick attach Im selling because I have to modify attachments for it to work. I recommend Pats EZ hitch cat 1. So much easier than lining up holes to pins. I have also learned to open the right hand door for access when I am putting something on the 3 point hitch. It beats saying @#$% every time I have to walk around the tractor to reach the control lever.
Perhaps when mine gets near 500 hours I'll remember the right hand door latch 🤣 Thanks for watching! Nice work on those palmettos.
My first tractor is also a Ford work master. Used to be an electric company tractor and has a big winch on the back. I’ll have to do a video on that tractor later. They are great tractors.
Old fords seem to have been used/modified for many purposes. I would love to see that winch and its mounting. I don't recall if I said it in the video, but my ford's first life was as a golf course mower for around 30 years so I'm sure it has many hours on it...proofmeter hasn't worked since we got it in the early 90's. Thanks for watching!
learned a lot from your video. thanks!
Thank you for stopping by and I'm glad you found the video useful!
A quick hitch for your three point is worth its weight in gold. I also just got a hydraulic top link for it and wish I would have bought one years ago. With both of those you only have to get out once to lock the hitch when hooking to implements.
Thanks for the input! I've been thinking about a quick hitch...have you had any issues with pto shafts being to short after putting on the quick hitch?
@southernadirondackoutdoors No. Most implements are quick hitch compatible. I would highly recommend the hydraulic top link also. They aren't cheap, but they're really handy. Plus, you will always have it once you buy it. If you trade tractors, just put the old one back on and keep the hydraulic one for the new tractor.
I have two of these, both get the right door handle from a L6060, two reasons, one to help putting on an implement and two if you accidentally lock the drivers side door when you get out with it running, don't ask how I know!! Unfortunately that door handle is over $400, next must do is rotate the loader handle as the way it is, hits your knee and easy to hit when you turn to your right looking back. Just pull up the rubber boot, loosen the nut and rotate handle. Air seat, just a must for me as the stock one is entirely too rough and has too low of sitting position. Lastly a steering knob is a must.
Thanks for watching and commenting! I usually hit the stupid (as I would call it when it happens) loader lock switch getting out the right side door and when I get back in it takes me a moment to figure out what I did. I've never had a steering knob but maybe its time to try one...growing up my father always said 'keep your thumbs out of the steering wheel as if you hit a stump the steering wheel will spin fast and break them'. This was before power steering and I guess I applied that thought to steering knobs as well.
I love mine - one of the 1st things I did was add a control to raise and lower the 3pt arms while standing behind it. I hated having to get back in it to make a minor adjustment.
Thanks for watching and I'm glad you enjoyed the video! How did you add a control? Did you make a mechanical linkage or do some hydraulic wizardry?
@@southernadirondackoutdoors I made a linkage I wish I could upload a couple pictures of it. It worked out great. And it looks good too.
Tip, when filling the fuel. Cut a milk jug in half and with the opening and handle part of the jug screw or press the jug in the opening of the fuel tank.I take off the stupid spout of the gas can and just pour the fuel in. It is 10xs faster and minimum spillage. the snow chain problem can be solved by taking back tires off and turning them around to make tires wider.
Thanks for the input! I do the same with the @%#$! spout on the new cans. I use a big old metal funnel that was designed to screw onto the old style metal tanks. While it doesn't screw onto this tank it still fits ok. I found some chains that do the job without having to turn the tires around. They are not the best but do the job and as long as I keep the extra links wired back they don't hit anything.
Great and very helpful video. I have been looking at this tractor (which would be my 3rd Kubota) and on one hand I really like it, but the three point hitch set up really is quite poor imo and the controls within the cab/cab set up including the right side door/latch are far less than ideal. I may have to consider the fancier comparable L series that I was hoping to avoid with the very expensive transmission...
I'm glad you found it helpful! I've gotten used to the right side door and even remember to unlatch it before I get out to hookup 3 point implements...just took me awhile to get used to it but I still may get the latch mentioned in the other comments. Of all the internal controls the one I still do not care for is the HST pedal for snowblowing backing up, the rest of the controls just took time to get used to. Good luck on your search!
You can move the rear tires outward on the wheel center to give you clearance for your chains and better stability. You need a hydraulic top link.
Thanks for the input! I found some chains that work with the clearance I have. They are not as aggressive as I would have preferred, but they get the job done. I couldn't move the rear tires out as the tire width would have been wider than the snowblower. Thanks for watching!
I enjoyed the review Paul, but I would like to see another review when the snow is up to the tractor doors and -20 with the wind howling. And maybe with a chunk of slab wood stuck in the auger of the snow blower 🤔😉
It has seen about a foot and a half so far. No wood yet but it does shoot gravel and dirt well...at least until I figured out what angle to adjust the top link to! I'll be picking gravel out of the lawn in the spring. That reminds me, I have to find where I put the shear bolts!
@@southernadirondackoutdoors I had one mounted on my Massey 65 years ago. Love to eat kids 🚲 and toys left out before the snow.🙄 At least you won't have that problem....
I have the mx5400 with a cab. I ordered a right hand door handle from messick’s. Now I can open the door from outside and adjust 3ph. The 5400&6000 share the same cab. Cost around $350 but worth it in long run. Enjoyed your video!
Glad you enjoyed the video and thanks for the tip, I'll check it out...it's a pain in the neck to walk up to the right side and then say @%#$ and walk around to the other side! 😁
What did they charge you for the Right door handle?
@@BigTader I haven't checked yet. It will be a spring project when its a bit warmer! Thanks for watching!
@@BigTader t
@@BigTader the best I remember it was around 350. Did you get a price from them?
Looks like it's time to build an equipment barn! Didn't realize you had that many machines.
Yes, a barn was on the list this year but..🤔didn't happen 🤣 I'm actually down one tractor. Had an identical Ford 641 that I sold to my cousins as it was their fathers tractor. Currently thinking of options on the other Fords, also have attachments that need a new home...perhaps I'll have a Southern Adirondack Outdoors garage sale!
Thanks for the video. If you run a synthetic oil, you dont need to cool of the turbo, syn oil wont coke the bearings. On your rear top link can you flip one of the brackets to fit a wider top link?
I'll have to check into the synthetic oil, sounds great! I'm not sure about the top link brackets flip-ability, but might work. Thanks!
Unless you are on pavement quite a bit you should have R1 (ag) tires and you won't need tire chains. Also have your rear tires filled with appropriate fluid for your climate.
Thanks for the input! We'll see how it goes this winter.
I had given thought to the R-14 but stayed with the R-4 because I wanted the heavy wall. In my case the chains go on in winter regardless so they offered no real benefit to me. The tire clearance you have would be concerning to me. I have an older model with 17.5 and have an easy 5 or more inches of clearance. I just changed out rims on one of my Kubota .....Kubota wanted 800 and change for each rim so after digging around I replaced them with blue tractor rim for a whole lot less. Which makes me wonder about wheel weights.
The only chains I found that might work with the tight clearances are Aqualine MPC chains but even still it would be close and if they got loose trouble could happen. I've been looking for front chains but the tires seem to be an odd size so none this winter...hopefully tires only will do it!
Can you open the back glass to access the 3pt lever from rear? Nice tractors and video
Thank you! I have a problem getting rid of tractors 😁 When the window is cracked open I can fully open it from the outside and I tried once to get to the lever which I believe was all the way down and my fingertips just brushed the lever so it might work if it was in a middle-ish position. Thanks for watching!
those cutting edges on buckets make a huge difference. i have a tym t494 on Canadarago lake just north of cooperstown. you must be in booneville - barneveld area or just north of utica. i had a 2500 lb yanmar sa324 then i got the t494 6500 lbs with rimguard. i can do real work with large frame tractor. i use a fransgard 950 log grapple for firewood. you can get a hydraulic top link for $250 with hoses and fittings. 100% you will not regret hydraulic top link. look under spare parts holland. 20 7/8 - 31 7/8 fits my t494 yours should be similar size.
When I was in the market for a new tractor I looked at TYM's and liked them but for me the dealer was too far. The cutting edges do make a world of difference and help stiffen the bucket lip. 1/2 hour NE of Utica.
I have 600 hrs on mine and had to replace all front-end loader seals right after purchase as they weeped down too fast, and my front wheel bearings and seals at 500 hrs. The regen is a real pain.
You need to get creative to get a spot to mount tool boxes. I jb welded a bracket on the side of the front-end lower to mount amo boxes. That worked good.
I'm just shy of 400hrs, did the 400 hour service yesterday before winter sets in. Luckily I haven't had the problems you had...knock on wood! I agree on the regen, it seems to come on just when you don't want it to. Thanks for watching and I may have an update on the tractor soon.
i use a 600 lb box blade and rim guard for ballast . calcium is 8 lbs/gal rim guard is 11 lbs/gallon. those rims are big $$ check into it destroying rims if you plan to keep it many years.
I don't recall what I said in the video the tires were filled with, I may have said calcium in a generic way, they were filled at the dealer with the rim guard.
go with pats easy hitch and hydraulic top link. this works with everything. i got a mech. fuel inj with no turbo . simple is better since i am the one working on it. pats is 200-250$
I don't know if this would help in your situation but I sometimes stick my foot UNDER the front of the pedal and lift to go in reverse. Since it's a rocker pedal, there's no problem doing this and you then don't need to hunt for the reverse pedal when you're concentrating on watching the back of the tractor.
Interesting idea, seems obvious now that you've mentioned it but It never occurred to me. I'll give it a try next time. Thanks!
@@southernadirondackoutdoors I can't claim credit, this is what our Kubota dealer suggested to us. I suppose it could be more difficult with snow boots on though. But I definitely find this really helpful in the summer. Fine adjustments back and forth are a breeze this way.
Hey Paul how did the r14t work for the winter bud my dealer talked me into them instead of the r1s
I ended up getting rear chains. Without chains they work good in non-hard packed snow. With my driveway being uphill and gravel I have to pack a base before snowblowing and things get interesting pretty quickly both going up and down. That said, R1's do the same on hard packed snow.
Many of the reviews I have seen , people were wishing they had the ag tires. The others look cool and sporty but fall short.
The tires were the toughest choice when ordering the tractor. If I had to do it again I would go with ag tires. I've found the ones I have to be ok and haven't been unable to do something because of them but the ag tires would give more confidence. Thanks for watching and commenting!
I use my flail mower for weight when doing heavy loader work, it weighs 900lbs and only sticks out as much as your snow blower.
Not a bad idea, would give me an excuse to sell a couple extra brush hogs and get a flail! 😁
@@southernadirondackoutdoors I love the flail mower it mulch’s the grass and sticks and leaves the nice stripes on the field. It also offsets to get close to the stone walls and field edges.
@@kalevalasouthfarm I've had to stick with brushhogs because of the stuff that was in the field but now that we got the ugly stuff out I should be able to run a flail...perhaps a new piece for next year!
Agree about the flail mower. It leaves a great finish and works beautifully as a counter weight.
I have the Kubota L4701, it's a similar sized tractor to what you have without the cab. Watching your video I don't see any reason why you can't turn to the right when blowing snow. It's so much easier to use the hydrostatic pedal.
Yes, it is possible to turn to the right and it is easier to use the pedal and the controls for the rear remotes for the snowblower chute. I tried it for awhile and I guess old habits are hard to break. It just felt weird/wrong but I'll give it another shot. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Replace top link with a hydraulic cylinder if you have a hydraulic remote on the back. If no remote use a portapower either manual or electric powered use power to bring closer to tractor and gravity to extend to desired adjustment.
Thanks for watching Tom! I've been looking at hydraulic top links. I do have two rear remotes so maybe.
unplug seat switch and twist wires going away from seat together if it is normally open switch
In interest of my Kubota warranty I would say I haven't done that, wink wink 😁
ammo cans make great water tight tool boxes
Very true!
Your turning around the wrong way if you turn around the right way then it is ergonomic and you will also be in better position to use every single other control in the tractor as well. Best wishes!!
Interesting thought, I'll try it! I guess I just got into the habit of turning left and stuck with it. It had never occurred to me to try the other way...old habits die hard!🤣
What made you buy this Kubota compared to the comparable Massey??
It came down to dealer location. I do business with both dealers and both are great but the Kubota dealer was a shorter drive through the country versus a longer drive going through a few villages and a city. Are you looking at both machines? Thanks for watching!
@@southernadirondackoutdoors pretty much decided on a L4060 with a cab. Just wondered if you thought the Kubota was overall better than the Massey
@@andreww4885 I liked the Massey but at the time there were 'supply issues'. That dealer is also a New Holland dealer and I think I spent more time comparing the Workmaster series to the Kubota.
Put 2 in wheel spacers on it and your snow chains of have no problem running I got three inch wheel spacers online
Thanks for watching and commenting! Yes, spacers would do the job but unfortunately my snowblower just barely covers the width of the tires as it sits now. I should have bought a wider snowblower but with the supply issues I was lucky to find a 6 footer.
I was just about to buy one of these yesterday, paperwork was about to be signed, then I learned the sad truth about these….THEY CAN NOT TAKE A BACKHOE ATTACHMENT. What the hell Kubota why
Yup. I have one for the New Holland so it wasn't a deal breaker for me. I guess it is a matter of space on the cab model but it still seems like they could have come up with some solution! Thanks for watching!😀
You can get a hydraulic top link it might be longer
Yes, I've been thinking about one. Thanks for watching and participating!
24 minutes later "It's been a good tractor so far". OK
Yeah, I got talking on the not good and suddenly realized that I hadn't said anything good about it yet and went into a little brain panic. It's at 240 or so hours now and I've gotten accustomed to most of the questionable things I pointed out. No mechanical issues so far! Maybe I should do a follow-up video now that I've had more seat time. Thanks for watching and commenting! Paul
@@southernadirondackoutdoors OK... NP. Just wanted to point that out. I was waiting for some good vibes on the machine.
Why would anyone get a rear mounted blower? Spend the money and get a front mounted MID PTO blower ... driving backwards is for the birds man!
I admit, going backwards isn't very enjoyable but I also weigh how much I want to spend for the 'joy' of doing snow removal myself versus paying the neighbor to plow. Once we reach the price tag of a front mount blower it would make more sense to take that money and pay the neighbor to plow for many years...and if I had a front mounted one I would probably get carried away and do our three miles of trails in the woods 🤣
@@southernadirondackoutdoors zero percent financing .. was a no brainer to get it with the tractor .
If you have a front blower on then you don't have a front-end loader