people always make these way more complicated than it needs to be, just bend the plate over so it don't connect with the screw, and then cut a little bit off of the spring to make it shorter and bend a new hook in it and put it back on ;-) does the same thing without all of this mess
Hey Les, I've seen about 15 videos on the same subject. I followed one such video and after I was done I started the bike up, turned the choke off, and it took off (like the throttle was wide open) and slammed into the back of my car leaving a a dent in the rear bumper. Apparently a few others who watched that video had a similar issue (hopefully minus the bumper damage) and the video creator actually released a follow up correcting the issue. Anyway, I wanted to share my appreciation for your video. I appreciate that you didn't cut any corners, got good video of the whole process, and provided explanations throughout all the steps. Too bad I didn't come across your video before the other! Thanks again!
LNR Ridez yeah same thing happened to me. it was my dads bike actually and it went wide open and the front end popped up after turning the choke off and did a wheelie and slammed into my bike. ouch.
Easier than pulling the flywheel and opening the crankcase to yank the governor then covering for the holes and putting it back together. This is what I would call the easiest way. However if that swing arm connected to the throttle has the bolt and Cotter pin in , it’s still engaging the the governor gear.
@@escapingthematrix3 If I wanted no governor operation I would open the engine and remove it. While the engine was opened I would complete what is necessary for high RPM (ungoverned) operation. At a minimum I would add a billet rod and finish with an aluminum or billet flywheel. Both of those are for my safety and the engines safety. When I did a mild build on my 196 I wanted to stay governed because I knew I didn't need ungovened RPM to get to more than 40 mph. It's set up to govern to appx 5000 RPM. I still used a billet rod and flywheel because it's a much better engine with them. And if I wanted to go ungoverned in the future those parts are already there. Also. Unlike others I like the stock throttle linkage. I get 1 or 2 pull starts with it. My throttle linkage is completely stock except for the throttle spring position on the governor arm. Not a rig job like others do.
Please be SAFE! Anytime you make a modification like this. The first time you start up the bike, make sure it's aimed at a chainlink fence or away from people and property. The spring is absolutely necessary to return the throttle back to idle. In the video I mentioned that throttle travel seemed limited but after riding them, I don't notice the short travel.
Get an additional spring to help throttle to return to idle, that’s what I bought, another video mentions the part number, it’s a small Honda spring, and helped avoid that issue.
And remember kids, after you do this those one handed pull starts are gone. Now you have to use your left hand to open the throttle while you are pulling. With the stock arrangement the throttle sits open until the engine starts after which the governor pulls the throttle back to idle. And contrary to what some may believe the governor is not there to prevent you from getting more than 3600 RPM. It is there to regulate and maintain a certain RPM based on load at a certain fixed throttle position. The distance the throttle linkage can travel along with the strength of the throttle spring is what prevents RPM's from going more than 3600 RPM. This automatic operation is not very desirable in a variable throttle application like a mini bike or go karts where people want full control over their throttle.
@@davidromsnackers No. But if you stop the video at 8:49 you will see the governor arm. On it there is a row of 4 large holes. The stock position of the throttle spring is in the second hole from the top. If you move the spring 2 holes down to the bottom hole on the "lump"' of the governor arm you will get higher RPM. If you still have the throttle screw in place you will still have an adjustment for max governed RPM. But you have to leave the rest of the linkage completely stock. With this arrangement the engine is still governed and will prevent an over rev. And when running this way change the oil as much as possible. Do not run with dirty oil. It will run fairly high RPM and is still a risk in the long run of ruining the connecting rod. Make this change at your own risk. If you had a billet rod and an aluminum flywheel this would not be a problem.
just make sure the engine is Nicely broke in before doing this. heavier springs cost $10.I’ve held my bike open throttle for a quarter mile and no issues .
Be aware that when doing this you WILL end up killing the stock engine if you stay on it all the time. It’s cool to do so you have the power when you need it but be careful.. Otherwise the next mod you’ll be doing is an engine swap. This is especially risky if you have any sort of “stage kit”
@@ib7510 No. Running this way will get the engine to valve float which is much higher than 4200 RPM. I get 4500 RPM with stock linkage and the throttle screw backed out.
@@elliott1491 Just change to 18 pound valve springs. They are only $15 from Go Power Sports. I installed the 18 pound springs yesterday. I have never done it before and it took less than 30 minutes from start to finish.
I had a problem after bypassing mine using a spring to hold the arm towards the front of the bike, one day engine started clanking. It was coming from the governor and no matter how I placed the little arm it was clanking so I removed engine opened up both sides and there at the bottom of the engine were plastic pieces and the little black gear inside and washers etc.. had to cut the governor arm off with angle grinder then plug the 2 holes in the block with bolts, reassembled and now the governor will never be a problemagain, and I learned how to do the flywheel and cam and valve lash and more in the process when I accidentally removed the big white plastic gear and the valves collapsed into the bottom end lol. Start to finish maybe 5 hours work
@@Partnerthedog did you hold er wide open all the time tho , I just give it full for maybe 10 seconds because I have a straight pipe and it backfires a lot when you let off
@@nostalgiaholic4874 no I didn't want to blow my engine I never went full throttle very long I ride it on trails at slow rpm so im lucky when I can floor it for a few seconds. It took about 20 hours of riding before it malfunctioned from the time I bypassed the governor. I swear their was pieces laying in the bottom of my engine. I have 18 pounds valve springs, intake pod filter and aftermarket exhaust. I maintain it perfectly as well
I don’t like that I think theirs a different way I’m gonna do mine . That’s don’t seem like throttle tension on the return to idle is the throttle sloppy?
These are the only mods I have done on these bikes so far. We have taken them out several times and have not had any issues with them. The throttle cable has NOT come loose or melted being in contact with the muffler. I was surprised. I don't know what my top speed is simply because we use them for trail riding and opening them up to full throttle for more then a few seconds seems like they are just a little too fast for what we do. I don't want to be remembered as the guy who died from a mini bike incident.
@@lesfrischmann Your comment is interesting because if you are doing slower speed trail riding the mod you did here is completely unnecessary. This mod is more suitable for those wanting more than 25 MPH on the street.
I just did this mod and know it won't run right. Ran for a minute or to then died. It seems like maybe a carb problem. Not sure of maybe I got a spring wrong. Any help would be appreciated.
I don’t see how using the Governor arm as the throttle arm will help it seems still be playing a roll in governing the engine if it’s controlled by the throttle connected to the arm that is still connected inside and a spring alone holding it back from any engagement. What I did for now was remove the whole Governor arm and cut and resent the long arm that was attached to Governor and connected it to the throttle assembly that was already there you discarded and drilled a hole in throttle arm connected the rod and springs both from the idle adjustment right to existing throttle set up. Now the only part of the Governor is all internal and has no way to engage. It works very good but as you stated I also plan on putting 26ld valve springs on so I can avoid valve float that I feel as the RPM goes up. But if it works it must because I’ve seen it done by others. I feel I did the next best thing to total Governor removal.
Bypass may not be the correct way to describe the mess he made. All he did was change the throttle arrangement to not allow proper governor function. The governor is still there and will attempt to close the throttle but will never overcome what the throttle hand and cable are doing. There's also the spring pulling the governor arm in the other direction. People who want to manipulate or remove their governor should look at more videos covering this subject. This is far from the easiest way. I would never do it this way.
@@Yung813 If I didn't want governor operation I would open the engine and remove it. If I wanted to do a quick and easy governor override I would use the zip tie method where you are making a semi solid link from the silver throttle linkage to the governor arm. I want neither on my 2 Coleman bikes. The smartest thing to do on these Coleman bikes for higher top speed is to install a torque converter. If you install a torque converter there is no need to remove or manipulate the governor. A lot of people remove or override the governor and still want more top speed so they end up getting a torque converter anyway so why not do the torque converter first? If you install a torque converter the work you did to manipulate the governor was a waste of time because it does not increase top speed with a torque converter unless you make other changes like gearing, modifying the torque converter, or building a much more powerful engine.
Try adjusting your throttle length by turning the throttle adjustment cable at the handlebar where it enters the hand throttle. Back it out some to increase the idle.
Just don't follow this one armed so called mechanic. Using the fuel tank to hold down the throttle cable from coming out of the bracket is just irresponsible. Better off using duct tape. You should remove this video before you hurt a child.
All he did was change the throttle arrangement to not allow proper governor function. The governor is still there and will attempt to close the throttle but will never overcome what the throttle hand and cable are doing.
Your video is too dark. I needed to see the entire throttle assembly. I had to take the whole assembly apart for other reasons. Now I'm needing to put it back again.
people always make these way more complicated than it needs to be, just bend the plate over so it don't connect with the screw, and then cut a little bit off of the spring to make it shorter and bend a new hook in it and put it back on ;-) does the same thing without all of this mess
Hey Les, I've seen about 15 videos on the same subject. I followed one such video and after I was done I started the bike up, turned the choke off, and it took off (like the throttle was wide open) and slammed into the back of my car leaving a a dent in the rear bumper. Apparently a few others who watched that video had a similar issue (hopefully minus the bumper damage) and the video creator actually released a follow up correcting the issue.
Anyway, I wanted to share my appreciation for your video. I appreciate that you didn't cut any corners, got good video of the whole process, and provided explanations throughout all the steps. Too bad I didn't come across your video before the other!
Thanks again!
Oh man that sucks, I kinda feel bad for laughing but we have all been there lol
where is the follow up video. mine takes off too and I need to remedy this.
LNR Ridez yeah same thing happened to me. it was my dads bike actually and it went wide open and the front end popped up after turning the choke off and did a wheelie and slammed into my bike. ouch.
I wonder how many people have ruined their engines or got injured following all this backyard bafoonery.
🤣🤣🤣
Easier than pulling the flywheel and opening the crankcase to yank the governor then covering for the holes and putting it back together. This is what I would call the easiest way. However if that swing arm connected to the throttle has the bolt and Cotter pin in , it’s still engaging the the governor gear.
Yep. The governor is unsuccessfully fighting the throttle cable.
@@Deucealive75 so would u rather delete it perminatly only asking because I’m doing this rn lol
@@escapingthematrix3 If I wanted no governor operation I would open the engine and remove it. While the engine was opened I would complete what is necessary for high RPM (ungoverned) operation. At a minimum I would add a billet rod and finish with an aluminum or billet flywheel. Both of those are for my safety and the engines safety.
When I did a mild build on my 196 I wanted to stay governed because I knew I didn't need ungovened RPM to get to more than 40 mph. It's set up to govern to appx 5000 RPM. I still used a billet rod and flywheel because it's a much better engine with them. And if I wanted to go ungoverned in the future those parts are already there.
Also. Unlike others I like the stock throttle linkage. I get 1 or 2 pull starts with it. My throttle linkage is completely stock except for the throttle spring position on the governor arm. Not a rig job like others do.
Please be SAFE! Anytime you make a modification like this. The first time you start up the bike, make sure it's aimed at a chainlink fence or away from people and property. The spring is absolutely necessary to return the throttle back to idle. In the video I mentioned that throttle travel seemed limited but after riding them, I don't notice the short travel.
Get an additional spring to help throttle to return to idle, that’s what I bought, another video mentions the part number, it’s a small Honda spring, and helped avoid that issue.
@@nalong55 can u link the video?
Make the hook on the cable longer and pinch it with a zip tie. Done. Nice video.
And remember kids, after you do this those one handed pull starts are gone. Now you have to use your left hand to open the throttle while you are pulling. With the stock arrangement the throttle sits open until the engine starts after which the governor pulls the throttle back to idle.
And contrary to what some may believe the governor is not there to prevent you from getting more than 3600 RPM. It is there to regulate and maintain a certain RPM based on load at a certain fixed throttle position. The distance the throttle linkage can travel along with the strength of the throttle spring is what prevents RPM's from going more than 3600 RPM. This automatic operation is not very desirable in a variable throttle application like a mini bike or go karts where people want full control over their throttle.
Thanks I’m 15
If you get a longer spring could you get more that 3600 rpm then?
@@davidromsnackers No. But if you stop the video at 8:49 you will see the governor arm. On it there is a row of 4 large holes. The stock position of the throttle spring is in the second hole from the top. If you move the spring 2 holes down to the bottom hole on the "lump"' of the governor arm you will get higher RPM. If you still have the throttle screw in place you will still have an adjustment for max governed RPM. But you have to leave the rest of the linkage completely stock. With this arrangement the engine is still governed and will prevent an over rev. And when running this way change the oil as much as possible. Do not run with dirty oil.
It will run fairly high RPM and is still a risk in the long run of ruining the connecting rod. Make this change at your own risk. If you had a billet rod and an aluminum flywheel this would not be a problem.
You are a kid at heart.
.and good with minibikes..Thanks
😊 the video was really helpful thanks again
just make sure the engine is Nicely broke in before doing this. heavier springs cost $10.I’ve held my bike open throttle for a quarter mile and no issues .
Be aware that when doing this you WILL end up killing the stock engine if you stay on it all the time. It’s cool to do so you have the power when you need it but be careful.. Otherwise the next mod you’ll be doing is an engine swap. This is especially risky if you have any sort of “stage kit”
It will be fine. Still within engines capabilities of 4200 rpms
@@ib7510 No. Running this way will get the engine to valve float which is much higher than 4200 RPM. I get 4500 RPM with stock linkage and the throttle screw backed out.
Yep him floating the valves that much is gonna end his engine.
@@elliott1491 Just change to 18 pound valve springs. They are only $15 from Go Power Sports. I installed the 18 pound springs yesterday. I have never done it before and it took less than 30 minutes from start to finish.
Any engine problems after doing this? Also why not just have zip ties the governor spring. Thanks
I would love to this also
I had a problem after bypassing mine using a spring to hold the arm towards the front of the bike, one day engine started clanking. It was coming from the governor and no matter how I placed the little arm it was clanking so I removed engine opened up both sides and there at the bottom of the engine were plastic pieces and the little black gear inside and washers etc.. had to cut the governor arm off with angle grinder then plug the 2 holes in the block with bolts, reassembled and now the governor will never be a problemagain, and I learned how to do the flywheel and cam and valve lash and more in the process when I accidentally removed the big white plastic gear and the valves collapsed into the bottom end lol. Start to finish maybe 5 hours work
@@Partnerthedog did you hold er wide open all the time tho , I just give it full for maybe 10 seconds because I have a straight pipe and it backfires a lot when you let off
@@nostalgiaholic4874 no I didn't want to blow my engine I never went full throttle very long I ride it on trails at slow rpm so im lucky when I can floor it for a few seconds. It took about 20 hours of riding before it malfunctioned from the time I bypassed the governor. I swear their was pieces laying in the bottom of my engine. I have 18 pounds valve springs, intake pod filter and aftermarket exhaust. I maintain it perfectly as well
@@Partnerthedog damn wish they made these things better who wants to do 30km/h
i heard you need to remove the governor instead of bypassing as it can ruin engine is this true?
I don’t like that I think theirs a different way I’m gonna do mine . That’s don’t seem like throttle tension on the return to idle is the throttle sloppy?
So how have these been running with the bypass on it? Any issues and have you done any other modifications?
These are the only mods I have done on these bikes so far. We have taken them out several times and have not had any issues with them. The throttle cable has NOT come loose or melted being in contact with the muffler. I was surprised. I don't know what my top speed is simply because we use them for trail riding and opening them up to full throttle for more then a few seconds seems like they are just a little too fast for what we do. I don't want to be remembered as the guy who died from a mini bike incident.
@@lesfrischmann Your comment is interesting because if you are doing slower speed trail riding the mod you did here is completely unnecessary. This mod is more suitable for those wanting more than 25 MPH on the street.
@@Deucealive75 The option of having access to extra power trumps the necessity of actually needing to use that power.
Just do the zip tie trick or take like 20 minutes to remove the actual govener
What’s the zip tie trick?
@@zultralight1916 the one that you put in the middle of the spring
It takes more than 20 minutes buddy, it takes hours.
@@theruiz.jfamily4290 I did the ziptie trick and it made my bike unrideable. It wont go over 1500 rpm now
What is the part number for the gas tank plastic nipple that delivers gas
How fast did it top out
I just did this mod and know it won't run right. Ran for a minute or to then died. It seems like maybe a carb problem. Not sure of maybe I got a spring wrong. Any help would be appreciated.
lifesaver
Nice
do you need the grey spring i lost mine
I lost mine to
Doing the governor trick will get your 25 miles an hour I wouldn't do the zip tie though cuz you'll float the valves
I don’t see how using the Governor arm as the throttle arm will help it seems still be playing a roll in governing the engine if it’s controlled by the throttle connected to the arm that is still connected inside and a spring alone holding it back from any engagement. What I did for now was remove the whole Governor arm and cut and resent the long arm that was attached to Governor and connected it to the throttle assembly that was already there you discarded and drilled a hole in throttle arm connected the rod and springs both from the idle adjustment right to existing throttle set up. Now the only part of the Governor is all internal and has no way to engage. It works very good but as you stated I also plan on putting 26ld valve springs on so I can avoid valve float that I feel as the RPM goes up. But if it works it must because I’ve seen it done by others. I feel I did the next best thing to total Governor removal.
I can’t find a video for the ct100u
Idle speed screw??
I just cant see how that bypasses the governor, when the rod is still moving forward to engage it .
Bypass may not be the correct way to describe the mess he made. All he did was change the throttle arrangement to not allow proper governor function. The governor is still there and will attempt to close the throttle but will never overcome what the throttle hand and cable are doing. There's also the spring pulling the governor arm in the other direction.
People who want to manipulate or remove their governor should look at more videos covering this subject. This is far from the easiest way. I would never do it this way.
@@Deucealive75 what would be the best way to do it, without taking it apart to remove the governor?
@@Yung813 If I didn't want governor operation I would open the engine and remove it. If I wanted to do a quick and easy governor override I would use the zip tie method where you are making a semi solid link from the silver throttle linkage to the governor arm. I want neither on my 2 Coleman bikes.
The smartest thing to do on these Coleman bikes for higher top speed is to install a torque converter. If you install a torque converter there is no need to remove or manipulate the governor. A lot of people remove or override the governor and still want more top speed so they end up getting a torque converter anyway so why not do the torque converter first? If you install a torque converter the work you did to manipulate the governor was a waste of time because it does not increase top speed with a torque converter unless you make other changes like gearing, modifying the torque converter, or building a much more powerful engine.
@Deucealive75 do I just tie a zip tie around the govener spring?
Deucealive75 do I just tie a zip tie around the govener spring?
how fast does it go after you did this?
7
Wow, Thanks. This is a Reallly good video, on what NOT TO DO. Yikes.
You just need to learn what bolts nuts and screws are
I was just about to say ...
Mine dies as soon as you try an turn the choke off, once its moving i can turn the choke off but as soon as you stop it dies, any ideas? Thanks
Try adjusting your throttle length by turning the throttle adjustment cable at the handlebar where it enters the hand throttle. Back it out some to increase the idle.
@@lesfrischmann I think my carburetor had issues, i got a new one an it runs perfect. Thanks for the video
--Yes. Just leave the choke on All the time. It won't hurt a thing brother,
ABC I It barely had any power with the choke on
Mine did the same all I did was put the choke on the money doe and after riding for like a minute and put the choke fully off
I did it to mine and now it can’t hit the gas with out the choke
So you just put a hook in the cable, that's it? Never comes off? Wtf
Listen to it rubbing omg that would drive me crazy no way I would do that to a bike .ever bro redo that shit
No proof of video of it riding
Just don't follow this one armed so called mechanic. Using the fuel tank to hold down the throttle cable from coming out of the bracket is just irresponsible. Better off using duct tape. You should remove this video before you hurt a child.
This does not work at all
Dumb video. I didnt see anything associated with the gov.
All he did was change the throttle arrangement to not allow proper governor function. The governor is still there and will attempt to close the throttle but will never overcome what the throttle hand and cable are doing.
Your video is too dark. I needed to see the entire throttle assembly. I had to take the whole assembly apart for other reasons.
Now I'm needing to put it back again.
Your gonna blow up your motor smh your floating the valves in it. You can’t do that