Boat Show 2017 - DIY Marine Solar Panel Installation
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- čas přidán 8. 07. 2024
- Are you thinking of adding a solar panel to your boat this year? Join Jeff Cote and the PYS team to learn the proper way to install a solar panel including what type of controller, wiring and connectors you should use to maximize the energy from your panel to your battery.
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Jeff Cote is a systems design expert and owner of Pacific Yacht Systems, a full service shop delivering marine electrical and navigation solutions for recreational boats. Visit the PYS website and blog for info and articles on marine electrical systems, projects and testimonials.
Website: www.pysystems.ca
Facebook: / pacificyachtsystems
Instagram: / pacificyachtsystems
Twitter: / pysystems - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Good speech! I really like it!
Hi, great video. Thank you very much. Any recommendation on how to glue a panel to a fiberglass deck?
Very interesting thanks
Excellent presentation! Greetings from sunny Jamaica.
Glad you enjoyed it!
im sure Gareth is a Kiwi. Great vid guys thanks A+
Informative video, thank you -
Question: If I were to run 4 panels (c/w diodes) into 4 MPPTs to counter shading issue from radar arch, could I common up the negative lines at the panels and run a single, appropriately sized negative bus back and then split out for the 4 MPPT inputs?
Hi Nick, each controller should be in a dedicated circuit to the panel. Therefore, we suggest to bring a pair of wires to each controller.
Jeff's videos are awesome! loud clear!
i have a wooden folkboat from 1966. looking for ways to make a through hull/cabin connection for my foldable solar array bag, its deployed when i'm away and packed under when i'm onboard. the idea is to have the cable coming from the array plug into an outlet near its deploy point (this way i dont have to deal with leaving a crack for the cable to run in), through the hull and have this outlet wired to the mppt controller inside. i still couldnt find an appropriate product that would deal with this issue, looking for some for of spring shut flap cover thing, essentially for an already IP67 connection like the mc4 or SAE, could anyone recommend me something to look into? greetings from berlin
Nice video. Can you provide a link to a suitable fuse block I can use for my solar system please. I have GroupA with 3x100W panels on one mppt controller, the GroupB with 2x100W panels on another mppt controller and looking for a good way to bring the mppt outputs (two+ and two-) to the house battery bank. Sounds like a fuse block might work but not sure if ok to get one without or with a cover and what specs?
Check out this link: www.bluesea.com/products/category/17/81/Fuse_Holders/ATO-ATC_Fuse_Holders
Hi, interesting video. On my boat alternator and shore charger are conected to the battery throug charge divider. Should I conect solar controler to charge divider or direct to batteries. I have 3 banks. (left and right motor plus house)
Go direct to house with solar so you don't loose any voltage drop through isolator .
Thank you for the informative video series. what side of the battery monitor shunt should the panel be connected too?
All negative connections should NEVER bypass the shunt, otherwise the shunt won't measure the amps in or out.
Pacific Yacht Systems I understand the theory behind this, and thank you for the reply. I guess I am unclear on which direction the shunt measures. Should the panel wire be on the battery side of the shunt, or on the equipment side?
No problem, sorry for the geek talk. Yep, the negative connection should be on the equipment side.
On installation of multiple solar panels where space is a limitation and a solution is to put solar panels of different wattages seem appropriate. Can I put 150W and 100W and 50W (or any combination thereof ) all in series to the same solar controller? In other words, can I put those in series with one cable going from outside the boat leading to a single solar controller. Once I leave the controller, how do I determine what size cable and fuse I need? I know that I'll need a fuse at the battery, but do I also need a fuse between the solar panel and the controller? What size fuse would I need there and where in the loop would that fuse go? Thank you for the outstanding videos. Thank you in advance for your response.
Hi Barrington, all good questions, and you'll find some answers in some of our other CZcams videos and articles. Suggest you consider installing dedicated controllers per panel. Choosing the wiring size from controller is based on voltage drop and amperage tables. The fuse is selected to protect the wire connected from battery to controller to solar, generally all wiring is #10, 30 amp fuse.
I want to upgrade my 2 panels that produce 75w each to 2 that produce 100 to 150w. Should I get a new controller/regulator? I find that my new boat to me doesn't produce enough power to keep up with my systems
Hi Breal91. You should consider getting a MPPT controller (higher efficiency) over a PWM controller. Make sure your controller can handle the series input voltage from 2 100 watt panels and also that net amperage coming out from the controller.
Pacific Yacht Systems Thank you. I’ll see exactly what I have when I go down to the boat this weekend. I find your videos to the the best on the subject on CZcams
So I already know all this stuff, why am I watching this video? D:
Does a solar array without a controller in the total dark present a load to a battery. I understand a controller would presumably prevent that even if it were so and if not, why? I’m just curious about the nature of the solar cell. I’m guessing not. But always want to understand stuff. I am going to buy a boat again to live aboard and will call you to consult and buy. I will outfit the boat to be off grid. I plan to live what’s left of my life on the boat in t(e Med visiting all the places I studied in school. Five years of Latin.
One reason I’ve heard to buy multiple controllers is to avoid shadow-degradation of one to affect another. Another is binary failure of the controller. Apparently the better panels have diodes to prevent the backwash of shadow-degradation. So then the only reason is independence in the event of total failure of one? There’s a simple word for that but I’m old and can’t remember it.
Hi Robert, even with diodes, shading seriously affects the output of a solar panel. In our opinion, if you think you'll experience shading, it's better to have dedicated controllers per panel. As you mentioned, having multiple controllers, provides redundancy as well,
@@PacificYachtSystems thank you. I am guessing I do not understand the role a controller plays with a single panel in partial shade. Prob because I don’t understand what partial shade does within the panel or to the output. Would you explain? Or I could call you. Hank you do much.
10:02 32???? You mean 48? :D :P lol Never heard of anyone running 32v.
Lots of boats built in the 70s had 32 VDC systems. For instance, worked on quite a few Bertrams with 32 VDC, including starters and alternators.
@@PacificYachtSystems how do you even get 32v? 12-24-36-48
Are you thinking of adding a solar panel to your boat this year? Join Jeff Cote and the PYS team to learn the proper way to install a solar panel including what type of controller, wiring and connectors you should use to maximize the energy from your panel to your battery.
You said "Don't by pass the shunt" for the negative to avoid incorrect readings on the battery monitor. Can I connect my negative cable from the solar charge controller directly to the negative side of the shunt, with the positive going to the common stud in the battery switch?
This was fantastic, i have been reading so much on this subject which is akin to voodoo for me, but its now clear.
this should be removed and replaced with less wordy to the point information .