European vs American/Australian Axe Efficiency Part 2 & Timbersport Training
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- čas přidán 16. 01. 2021
- Chopping beech wood with Ochsenkopf & Basque racing axes and demonstrating why the European axe developed a bad reputation. In short its down to taking tools that were not designed for cutting very large trees and using them because its likely all they had. Pa
t 1 here shows that the American/Australian Axe is bad for a European context • European vs American/A...
Welcome to the Machine...Massive h.p...Well done...Godspeed and safety to you...I learn something new everytime I watch your vidz... I just turned 60yrz...So grateful for your time/help and knowledge. It will save me years of trial and error missed out on.....Much Respect from St Petersburg Florida....
I’m just a guy from the states trying to learn more about axes and techniques. That’s why I enjoy this channel. No fluff, just facts by demonstration.
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@Winston Huxley Definitely, have been watching on flixzone} for since november myself :D
@Winston Huxley Yup, been using flixzone} for years myself :)
@Winston Huxley yea, I've been using Flixzone} for since december myself :)
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R.I.P Basque axes
I agree with what you say here. I've done some comparative chopping tests between different European and Australian axes on the farm here in Australia. On larger really tough wood like Grey Box, European axes are close to useless, a lot of energy gets wasted whereas a Tassie pattern can get the work done relatively quickly and efficiently. But on smaller dead wood, I actually prefer European axes like a 3/4 size Hults Bruk, because the thinner bit profile seems to bite better. So I keep and use both for different jobs.
for sure on dead wood the thinner the better, I think its because the chips become so brittle they pop out easier but getting the axe to bite in becomes difficult
The Basque axes are definitely intriguing.
Well, I don't think it's just European VS American/Australian. For example, just among Italian axes, you can find the super thinly bitted Trento/Trentino patterns (400g to 2000g), or the wedgy Calabria/Sicilia/Sila patterns (which went from 250g to 2500g heads). There's the same kind of diversity just among Bicayne/Vizcaina axes, some being basically a folded sheet or a sheet bit welded to an oval tube eye, other being massive wedges very comparable to the Tasmanian pattern. Basque axes themselves tend to be quite wedgy. So in Europe you can find basically the whole spectrum, and there's a continuum from the super thin cork axe to the super fat axe that's closer to a splitting axe.
Absolutely agree, the videos I have made are simplifications, i mean to address this in the future
@@benscottwoodchopper - I understand. They are aimed at Americans, so things need to be dumbed down a bit 😂😂😂
I'd be curious to try one of the biggest Calabria axes. Sadly the largest in production right now are "only" 1.3kg. I wonder how the 2.5kg beasts handled like. I remember you didn't like your heavy Scotch pattern Elwell axe, maybe they were a bit like these, and just too heavy and not worth the effort.
Must be a pain cleaning those chips off that crushed stone driveway.
Yup, it is
I have my dad's old Gilpin 4lb Kent Pattern Axe used extensively for pollarding and to some degree coppicing of White Willow and Hazel. I have used it for hedge laying when I lived in Yorkshire. Dad also used the axe for ship building carpentry. The flat grind and wide cutting edge makes these efficient for severing staves for fencing and primitive shelters. Finer branches are more easier removed with billhooks and slashers. Some of the older felling axes had a longer and shallower bit (cutting edge) which I imagine would improve penetration when coupled with a longer haft. Two handed saws were commonplace in 15th Century Britain and would have been the preferred tool for felling English Oaks, not the axe (as huge volumes of this hardwood would have been processed to build a huge fleet of British Warships...often referred to as the 'Hearts of Oak'). Many Sheffield forges would have responded to the needs of overseas markets in the hay day of commercial logging enterprises.
very interesting, I love this sort of thin because so much of the focus is on american axes and only felling that often the reasons for european designs are ignored. I have a 2.5lb gilpin kent I really should use more often.
@@benscottwoodchopper Greetings Ben, I have a 3lb Brades Kent Pattern I re-hafted in England, it is a nice handle but I have never been happy with the feel of the axe since I hafted it, I think I will remove it and refit with a shorter one. I think I will look out for a Brades Criterion, how do their serial numbers relate to weight. I am just getting back into more hand splitting and axe work after ripping my Trapezius twice last year...not to be recommended! That's why I was splitting in a leisurely manner when I was splitting knotty logs with Buckin' Billy Ray last year. See clip...
czcams.com/video/di8LMZOmAVQ/video.html
I've been trying to buy a Basque axe for months now but there are none available.
As soon as I'm able to afford to replace my blacksmithing tools I'm going to attempt to build something like one.
I would also like to get a few of the Rinaldi axes but they are all sold out as well. I managed to find a Prandi Trenton pattern axe though. It's a beast and chops deeper than any of my other axes. The only problem is it sticks really bad in oak and hickory because it's so thin.
Still looking for that perfect axe even though I know there really isn't such a thing. But I'm sure there's something better than what I currently have.
My main working axe is a 36" 3 1/2 pound double bit I've reworked. I'm going to try to hang some of my others on a shorter handles. After watching all the videos of people recommending shorter axes I figured it wouldn't hurt to try one out. I've got smaller axes with short handles I like so maybe a full sized axe short handled axe will work better for me. Like many people I grew up using long handled axes thinking they were best for bigger work.
Good breathing, as no breath held! Bravo!
Try kettlebell swings to counter the muscle work making a man crouch over from axe swinging below feet?
I definitely do write off flat cheeked axes because of all the hardwoods I have to work with. Because of this I prefer wedged axes. One of my favorite splitting axes I ever used was a 2.75lb Maine wedge. As for crosscutting my favorite axe is a very worn Connecticut pattern. It's not at an extreme angle but it's a wonderful chip thrower.
Also, I'm the true mustard tiger with my belly in videos.
Luv a main wedge for splitting. Got a 3.5 lbs snow & nealley on a 32 . Never tried chopping with one though not sure how it would do being designed for pine .
@@petehendry4756 the Maine wedge is great all around. It doesn't stick at all with crosscuts either. Not sure about my edge angle but they do seem to not penetrate crazily but they make up for it in not sticking
They're made for the hardwoods of Maine so I really love them since I live in the northeast. I also have a 3.5er but haven't hung it yet. Thinking about a 32 for splitting aswell.
Yeah I really like wedge type axes very versatile
Great video :)
Both axes are very good for warm up
I dont think nationality means anything in regard to geometry. There are some very slim american and australian axes out there that were commonly used.
There are also some very thick european axes such as English, austrian and finnish patterns.
Where it came from doesnt mean much but geometry is geometry.
I agree, this is just a wild oversimplification
@@benscottwoodchopper shouldnt it be retitled to something along the lines of "what geometry cuts best"?
@@elemental4rce eh, seems to attract more interest
You're an oddity to normal folks Ben 😂
Awwww mate, you get off the boat in Australia and you go out into the bush, not the woods.
She’s had you mate
I’ll let him off this time due to his dog bothering skills showing promise.
R.I.P Philadelphia Collins
I'd really like a basque axe but even if I had the money they're rare as rocking-horse shit now.
17 thumbs up for the TPB clip tho 😄
@@enzowilson345 thanks for that, I'll check it out.
@@rogerharvey9863 they look to be short of stock, no 1.5, only 1x 2.5kg. I literally just ordered a 1.25kg, £65 delivered to uk
@@enzowilson345 have you already received one? Was it easy?
@@rogerharvey9863 I'm in the UK, ordered one Oct or November, 2kg. Took a two or three weeks but no problems. I don't know if leaving the EU will cause problems or import duty. Really nice axe!
@@enzowilson345 yeah brexit was what concerned me 😒
01:39 In Europe you have alot of ???? Wood. What are you saying there?
coppice wood
@@benscottwoodchopper ah, thank you.
You meant to say the Basque axes are the Worst in the world, right? 😉
slip of the tongue
Exactly... The absolute worst lol.
If anyone is looking to get rid of theirs, I'll happily free you of the burden of owning the worst axe in the world
I guess I'm the only one that got scared at 3:20 and at 9:18. I thought you lost your feet there for a second. The camera angle is the reason. I bet If I try that sport, I won't be so lucky. Having only 2 feet,I would lose at least 1 sooner or later! God, I thought I was brave
it takes practice to get the skills to chop like that. I also wear special chain mail foot protections specifically for timbersport events
@@benscottwoodchopper Great! I wouldn't try even with full plate body armor on! I thought that you would wear steel toe shoes,You are really good with the axe,thanks for information!
Nah you won't the only one looked close somtimes
Americans used saws for bucking, axe for felling and delimbing. Bucking American hardwoods is not fun, a bucking saw is 10x faster.
Not untill after 1850, and saws were incredibly expensive to buy and maintain. Still a lot of bucking done with axe for poorer folks
Wait, what??!! Was that your father in-law!!?
Ben I hope you have extreme sport deodorant on!
man i know you are almost a pro and have great technique but your foot and leg are very close here.. take care
no worries, I always wear chain mail foot and shin protection. thing is if you want to chop good the closer you can keep your feet together the better
I hope you’re wearing steel toed shoes.
yeah i have competition chain mail under the sneakers as per timbersport safety regs
If it was in Oz, it would be Dunlop Volleys - no steel - flickr.com/photos/merryjack/6317353115 - "the standard footware for all [Aussie] axemen"
@@ianriley8136 I would get a pair if i had the opportunity to try them on first! For now my converse do alright. One thing is for sure, night and day difference compared to chopping in boots
Volleys were a favourite with roofing carpenters as well - light, good grip and good feel - flexible, flat soles that aren't too thick. Like most good things that were once made in Oz, they are now made offshore in some cheap labour country and the quality isn't what it used to be. So, stick with your converse sneakers.
Man you sure have a lot of expensive axes and alot of axes for you to not be an axe guy and don’t like talking about axes and collecting axes you could do alot of the work you do with cheaper axes
Theres abit of a difference in collecting and using. My expensive ones are all racing axes i compete with. The ones i work with are all under £100. I love axes but i dont like the collecting culture of stamps
Tuatahi exe much better