I love splitting wood. Especially on a sunny winter day. I've used a log splitter a couple times but picking up those logs isn't easy at all. Then you have to turn around and pick them up again to load them then pick them up again to unload them then pick them up again to burn them. I'd much rather split them right on the ground where they lay. Of course I end up splitting some smaller after I get them home. Just for more fun. Plus you get big muscles!
I wish my wife would help chop wood 😂. Another awesome video brother. I always watch your videos first. Definitely a good start to the day. As always, thank you for teaching because there are people like me who really appreciate it 👍
Sheesh! You two are a splitting machine. At one point I almost thought you said, "naughty bits," but it was actually "knotty bits." Just to show I'm paying attention 😄
I slab between knots a lot if there is enough room. I'll often knock off the slabs I can between the knots, then split the piece in half and start cheese wedging. I do split big rounds in half, but it's usually not the best course if some slabbing will work, I do that first, even if it's just one or two slabs. What is unfortunate is the default belief that everything must be split in half. I don't use sissy sticks for the same reason, slow and clumsy. You can do this stuff for another 30 years and they'll still tell you you're about to cut yourself any second lol, so get used to it ha ha.
Regarding power, I often go pretty hard, because I don't want to hit more than once. Both require a lot of energy and I think there is just going to be an inefficiency there quite a bit of the time. Extracting axes hitting it more than once or picking it up again and swinging harder all have a energy costs. often, when I slack off a little, I regret it and end up having to hit it again I usually use a maul though for splitting saw rounds. I haven't converted to an axe as my main splitter for saw rounds yet, though I do it, depending on what's at hand and what wood it is, or if I just want more axe time.
Very well said, especially the slabbing/halving debate. I'm dealing with some horrible twisted and interlocking eucalypt atm, axe-cut for the cordwood challenge, and had to rotate through a bunch of axes to find something that worked. Eventually settled on laying it down and just trying to hew off the sapwood. Made for some ugly looking firewood, but my stove don't care. Good on your missus too, for gettin out and helping
Sometimes if I've got a really knotty twisted round that's giving me a hard time just flipping it over helps. If nothing else wedges can help but they don't feel very good if they slip out and hit you. lol I've got a couple of the round type wedges that in some wood work better than the normal wedges, it's handy having both at the splitting pile. You right about splitting when you say there's lots of different techniques. Some work better for some people and different types of wood than others. I've got friends that prefer axes for splitting even on big stuff. but I like using mauls better on big wood. I'll bust up the big stuff into smaller pieces then switch to an axe. Whatever works best for you is the best way imo. Another thing I've found is having a couple forked pieces of different sizes around the splitting pile helps with the one's that don't want to stand up.
hardness dosen't rilly mater, the pecan that is native to ware i live and also seader are a pain in the but thogh, i think the reson for this is that the fibers stick together so well
Another great video mate! Would you ever use a maul for splitting ? Why/why not ? What you said earlier in this video about the hardest wood you’ll cut is a lone hardwood, that’s 90% of everything I cut. Down here in Australia the stuff I have access to is redgum and it’s always just a lone tree on a farm that a farmer will be kindly let us have. So we “buck” it into rings with the chainsaw and then have to split it all by hand. Some of these trees can be upwards of 6ft in diameter so the rings we buck are massive and consequently we almost exclusively use the technique where you cut along the grain and take slices off the outside progressively working your way into the centre going round and round (unless there’s huge gaping cracks in the wood then we can use them to our advantage often). Eeeeeeveryone around here always uses a maul (they just call it a splitter). I’ve started exploring axes more and more lately (your videos are an incredible resource so thank you for your time and effort!) and I’m curious if you think I should try splitting with an axe ? I’ve found the thing that works best for me is an 8lb maul so I’m someone that really likes and appreciates having the extra weight to throw behind the swing especially when the wood is extremely tight. Im worried about the sticking and the axe being too light ? This might be a stupid suggestion but I was thinking something with the profile even of maybe the tuatahi racing ace with the fatter cheeks to try and minimise the sticking ? Or is splitting with a racing axe a dumb idea ? Of course the best way to answer all this is to just try it myself but you’re extremely knowledgeable and always seem very generous with your time so I would be very interested to hear what you reckon about all that ? Cheers mate
Glad to hear you like the videos! Yes, I use mauls all the time, mostly for like you say trees grown in a field with many knots and twisted grain. I mostly prefer axes though just because they are lighter to use all day. If you can find an old head with convex cheeks (probably fairly easy to find an old tassie pattern) they are brilliant and very rarely stick badly. Definitely worth giving a try to see how it works for you and your conditions.
@@benscottwoodchopper thanks mate I appreciate it. If I get super keen one day I might make a video of my comparison and results and send it to you. Using an axe for splitting around here would make the locals look at you like you have 3 heads I reckon but I’m keen to see how it goes !
Haha! Take that, CZcams comment experts! I don't have any dedicated splitting axes, just different weights of multipurpose axes but I've found a lot of knots can be cut across with a thinish ,sharp bit rather than trying to bust apart the wood around it
that driveway is every axe's nightmare, lol! Better learn a proper flick. Anyway, I couldn't agree more, especially the point of splitting smaller pieces one handed on a chopping block is a very good technique. It saves energy and for me who is selling premium firewood it provides better looking and less dirty pieces. I have learned so much from Buckin's splitting videos, he's really got it down. He is absolutely right on the chopping block - they really are a waste of time and energy when dealing with bigger rounds. It's funny how most people today without even thinking would head for the chopping block What is your stance in this log splitter vs axe battle? I really think the axe combined with good technique and axemanship is competitive with a log splitter - especially with the added costs and complexity of running a machine. The axe provides a much better exercize as opposed to the monotonous work and heavy lifts with the splitter
What are your thoughts on a pickaroon/hookaroon? When I start splitting again I think I'll have to invest. Seems like you don't mind bending, I do agree on bouncing. It is wasted energy. I usually only fix splitting axes in this respect though. I could probably save a lot of swings if I give a mauls bevels some more attention.
Oh boy, can you send me some of that wood to Tasmania it looks mint to split. In return i can send you some twisted eucalypt that you will need a piece of TnT to split haha
Hi Ben, hope you're keeping well in these strange times. I have a question regarding axe handles. I am looking to buy a Hultafors axe, which will be around £60, but to save money I was thinking about just buying a handle. I have a Brades Criterion 378 axe head which I put on a cheap Screwfix axe handle. A hultafors axe handle is around £30, so was thinking of pairing that up with the 378. My arm length is about 60 cm in length, so would I need a 50cm handle? In your experience, have you found that the Criterions are easily fitted onto expensive handles? Are the Hultafors axe heads superior to Brades? Cheers!
@@benscottwoodchopper 17"?! That is so small, what was the main purpose of the criterion? Yeah main use is for around the camp really, I do have a saw at hand also
@@benscottwoodchopper Very clever. I tried Buckin's flick on my big beech rounds and failed miserably. Loosening my grip on impact seemed counter-productive. Like the idea of a solid grip with an angle strike. Every day's a school day!
@@davidfitzgerald4367 with axes its just a lot of trial and error finding what works for you. Btw your axe is getting shipped monday, should be there soon after
Leylandi is the biggest bastard I've known, took a large one down last year and the logs were a PITA to buck and split. However, watching it burn on the fire was ever so satisfying!
Please, I need a versatile axe, that can manage to both chop and split Olive trees to create firewood. If it would be wiser, to use a superthin felling axe and then a spliting axe, becasue ofthe super tough nature of this wood, then any other suggestions, would be much appriciated. Thanks in advance
grinding them flat with a small 1mm secondary bevel performs better. most axes come with a stupidly thick convex, yet you do not see this in historical logging videos. most peoples idea of convex is a fat edge when all you really need to do is have a convex for the last mm at most
They call me Lightning when I have an axe in my hand. I never hit the same place twice. 😁
Brades. Old as hell, but sheer quality in everything they made. Like everything else from a bygone age.
I love splitting wood. Especially on a sunny winter day. I've used a log splitter a couple times but picking up those logs isn't easy at all. Then you have to turn around and pick them up again to load them then pick them up again to unload them then pick them up again to burn them. I'd much rather split them right on the ground where they lay. Of course I end up splitting some smaller after I get them home. Just for more fun. Plus you get big muscles!
I wish my wife would help chop wood 😂. Another awesome video brother. I always watch your videos first. Definitely a good start to the day. As always, thank you for teaching because there are people like me who really appreciate it 👍
Sheesh! You two are a splitting machine. At one point I almost thought you said, "naughty bits," but it was actually "knotty bits." Just to show I'm paying attention 😄
And I agree about the hardness of wood not really mattering in splitting. Pine can be a bitch because of all the limbs.
I slab between knots a lot if there is enough room. I'll often knock off the slabs I can between the knots, then split the piece in half and start cheese wedging. I do split big rounds in half, but it's usually not the best course if some slabbing will work, I do that first, even if it's just one or two slabs. What is unfortunate is the default belief that everything must be split in half. I don't use sissy sticks for the same reason, slow and clumsy. You can do this stuff for another 30 years and they'll still tell you you're about to cut yourself any second lol, so get used to it ha ha.
Thats the thing, carving a spoon you often hit closer and harder near your fingers, yet nobody bats an eye at that
@@benscottwoodchopper ha ha, good point.
Regarding power, I often go pretty hard, because I don't want to hit more than once. Both require a lot of energy and I think there is just going to be an inefficiency there quite a bit of the time. Extracting axes hitting it more than once or picking it up again and swinging harder all have a energy costs. often, when I slack off a little, I regret it and end up having to hit it again I usually use a maul though for splitting saw rounds. I haven't converted to an axe as my main splitter for saw rounds yet, though I do it, depending on what's at hand and what wood it is, or if I just want more axe time.
Very well said, especially the slabbing/halving debate. I'm dealing with some horrible twisted and interlocking eucalypt atm, axe-cut for the cordwood challenge, and had to rotate through a bunch of axes to find something that worked. Eventually settled on laying it down and just trying to hew off the sapwood. Made for some ugly looking firewood, but my stove don't care. Good on your missus too, for gettin out and helping
That guy has really mastered the flick. Well impressed.🙂
Chomp chomp chomp, very satisfying 👍
Sometimes if I've got a really knotty twisted round that's giving me a hard time just flipping it over helps.
If nothing else wedges can help but they don't feel very good if they slip out and hit you. lol I've got a couple of the round type wedges that in some wood work better than the normal wedges, it's handy having both at the splitting pile.
You right about splitting when you say there's lots of different techniques. Some work better for some people and different types of wood than others.
I've got friends that prefer axes for splitting even on big stuff. but I like using mauls better on big wood. I'll bust up the big stuff into smaller pieces then switch to an axe. Whatever works best for you is the best way imo.
Another thing I've found is having a couple forked pieces of different sizes around the splitting pile helps with the one's that don't want to stand up.
Nice job editing :)
Ben over here splittin like a young Buckin Billy Ray.
Already got the shirts with the sleeves cut off too!
hardness dosen't rilly mater, the pecan that is native to ware i live and also seader are a pain in the but thogh, i think the reson for this is that the fibers stick together so well
Another great video mate!
Would you ever use a maul for splitting ? Why/why not ?
What you said earlier in this video about the hardest wood you’ll cut is a lone hardwood, that’s 90% of everything I cut. Down here in Australia the stuff I have access to is redgum and it’s always just a lone tree on a farm that a farmer will be kindly let us have. So we “buck” it into rings with the chainsaw and then have to split it all by hand. Some of these trees can be upwards of 6ft in diameter so the rings we buck are massive and consequently we almost exclusively use the technique where you cut along the grain and take slices off the outside progressively working your way into the centre going round and round (unless there’s huge gaping cracks in the wood then we can use them to our advantage often). Eeeeeeveryone around here always uses a maul (they just call it a splitter). I’ve started exploring axes more and more lately (your videos are an incredible resource so thank you for your time and effort!) and I’m curious if you think I should try splitting with an axe ? I’ve found the thing that works best for me is an 8lb maul so I’m someone that really likes and appreciates having the extra weight to throw behind the swing especially when the wood is extremely tight. Im worried about the sticking and the axe being too light ?
This might be a stupid suggestion but I was thinking something with the profile even of maybe the tuatahi racing ace with the fatter cheeks to try and minimise the sticking ? Or is splitting with a racing axe a dumb idea ?
Of course the best way to answer all this is to just try it myself but you’re extremely knowledgeable and always seem very generous with your time so I would be very interested to hear what you reckon about all that ?
Cheers mate
Glad to hear you like the videos! Yes, I use mauls all the time, mostly for like you say trees grown in a field with many knots and twisted grain. I mostly prefer axes though just because they are lighter to use all day. If you can find an old head with convex cheeks (probably fairly easy to find an old tassie pattern) they are brilliant and very rarely stick badly. Definitely worth giving a try to see how it works for you and your conditions.
@@benscottwoodchopper thanks mate I appreciate it.
If I get super keen one day I might make a video of my comparison and results and send it to you. Using an axe for splitting around here would make the locals look at you like you have 3 heads I reckon but I’m keen to see how it goes !
Chopinator
Haha! Take that, CZcams comment experts!
I don't have any dedicated splitting axes, just different weights of multipurpose axes but I've found a lot of knots can be cut across with a thinish ,sharp bit rather than trying to bust apart the wood around it
Nice one Ben - buying my Missus an axe would be like giving her a cookbook - I'd end up with a fat lip!
I am very lucky to have a woman with interests such as this
that driveway is every axe's nightmare, lol! Better learn a proper flick.
Anyway, I couldn't agree more, especially the point of splitting smaller pieces one handed on a chopping block is a very good technique. It saves energy and for me who is selling premium firewood it provides better looking and less dirty pieces.
I have learned so much from Buckin's splitting videos, he's really got it down. He is absolutely right on the chopping block - they really are a waste of time and energy when dealing with bigger rounds. It's funny how most people today without even thinking would head for the chopping block
What is your stance in this log splitter vs axe battle? I really think the axe combined with good technique and axemanship is competitive with a log splitter - especially with the added costs and complexity of running a machine. The axe provides a much better exercize as opposed to the monotonous work and heavy lifts with the splitter
the slow hydraulic splitters are a waste of time in wood that is fairly easy to split. For super knotty stuff they are better
Those braded axes are amazing I wish I could find one
Brades
I have some brades and similar heads that i plan on restorimg and selling
@@benscottwoodchopper I might buy one of you end up selling some of them I am not for sure I am saving up for an arvika 5 star
What are your thoughts on a pickaroon/hookaroon? When I start splitting again I think I'll have to invest. Seems like you don't mind bending, I do agree on bouncing. It is wasted energy. I usually only fix splitting axes in this respect though. I could probably save a lot of swings if I give a mauls bevels some more attention.
pickaroons are great for moving larger pieces and dragging logs, for small firewood its quicker jsut to use your hands
Oh boy, can you send me some of that wood to Tasmania it looks mint to split. In return i can send you some twisted eucalypt that you will need a piece of TnT to split haha
Plenty of that sort of thing here too! Ive had rounds that were so knotted, twisted and hard that a pickaroon with a needle sharp point bounced off
that woman is not joking around
Hi Ben, hope you're keeping well in these strange times. I have a question regarding axe handles. I am looking to buy a Hultafors axe, which will be around £60, but to save money I was thinking about just buying a handle. I have a Brades Criterion 378 axe head which I put on a cheap Screwfix axe handle. A hultafors axe handle is around £30, so was thinking of pairing that up with the 378. My arm length is about 60 cm in length, so would I need a 50cm handle?
In your experience, have you found that the Criterions are easily fitted onto expensive handles? Are the Hultafors axe heads superior to Brades?
Cheers!
For the 378 they origionally had 17" handles but 60cm would make them into a nice camp axe. Hultafors handles are thicc, will take some work
@@benscottwoodchopper 17"?! That is so small, what was the main purpose of the criterion? Yeah main use is for around the camp really, I do have a saw at hand also
@@benscottwoodchopper oh and also, does axe handle shape matter?
@@kai_johnsonn the 378 was listed as 'hunters hatchet' in the catalogues
@@kai_johnsonn just make the shspe comfortable for you
Coordinating the twist in the wrist at the right moment on impact is where it all comes together i assume...
There is a way to do it with zero practice czcams.com/video/k6BKQ_TK06o/video.html
@@benscottwoodchopper Very clever. I tried Buckin's flick on my big beech rounds and failed miserably. Loosening my grip on impact seemed counter-productive. Like the idea of a solid grip with an angle strike. Every day's a school day!
@@davidfitzgerald4367 with axes its just a lot of trial and error finding what works for you. Btw your axe is getting shipped monday, should be there soon after
Mate anyone who says softwood is easy to split havent done overgrown hedge Leylandii.
I recently split loads of oak and some pine, the oak split like butter but the pine was much harder
Leylandi is the biggest bastard I've known, took a large one down last year and the logs were a PITA to buck and split.
However, watching it burn on the fire was ever so satisfying!
Please, I need a versatile axe, that can manage to both chop and split Olive trees to create firewood. If it would be wiser, to use a superthin felling axe and then a spliting axe, becasue ofthe super tough nature of this wood, then any other suggestions, would be much appriciated. Thanks in advance
Where do you live Ben? I thought England? I was surprised to see snow on the ground early in the vid.
We do sometimes get snow. Legends have it.
England
All that rock is making me nervous 😬
Ello
Your flick was looking quite good. Give old Buckin’ a run for his money. Never hit the gravel once. Sycamore or Beech?
beech, its splitting up the training blocks
Lol. Big rounds of Beech can be a bitch to bust open.
Why dont You grind convex your axes
grinding them flat with a small 1mm secondary bevel performs better. most axes come with a stupidly thick convex, yet you do not see this in historical logging videos. most peoples idea of convex is a fat edge when all you really need to do is have a convex for the last mm at most
selling Vintage Brades £1000000000