No not the logo! 😆 Did the same thing to my GB forest axe. I subscribe to a lot of the "theories" SkillCult has on handles. He's obviously thought a lot about the subject and most of his thoughts on handle shape and construction make a lot of sense to me. Handles just keep getting thicker and thicker, often in the wrong places as well. It's evidence that less and less people are using axes seriously as tools because a thick handle is just a terrible experience. Some manufacturers like Council Tool at least get it close for you. I still tune them up as well though. Love their boy's axes, purchased partly because of your recommendation so thanks for that 😁
@@benscottwoodchopper did you have to modify the bevel on your council tool boys axe quite a bit from stock, because mine, which is pretty old, doesn't look like anyone has ground the bevel at all but its shape is really messed up looking,like if i were to try to see what the angle of the bevel is, it would be different on the top than the bottom. or maybe a better why to describe it is that if when im trying to sharpen it so i take a file and try to mark where the bevel line is it would be a sort of squiggly line
Once you've done a few handles, you can use an angle grinder with a fresh flap wheel to hog off material in a few minutes. Saves me time because I'm lazy :D
Handle on my new Hults Bruk 26" axe is 23x35mm. That is quite close to your recommended dimensions. But yeah I am going to thin it little bit. Thanks for tip with scissors.
I tried to thin down the Canadian Biber's handle. I used the lowest grit sandpaper, The spine of an Opinel No8, a sharp 90 degrees glass... it took me forever and it still isn't where I want it. I guess that rasp, is an one way option, if you want to thin down an axe handle. I'm already google searching to get one! Happy new year!!
Your asymetrical palm swell comment got me thinking. Have you ever tried filing and sanding in some subtle finger grooves? The grip of a Walther PDP pistol is an excellent example. I wonder if that along with the asymetrical shape would make the ultimate comfort grip.
Ben, have you ever tried elm (Ulmus glabra) for handles? Based on my experience it's better than ash, it's less likely to break due to the handle being damaged under the head. Plus it is not that hard to find a high quality fast grown elm tree as it is growing super fast under the right conditions.
Good stuff Ben. Handy tips, ive still gotta try a shinto rasp, usually go the grinder route coz im impatient haha. Spot on about the asymmetrical handle, do it often, i call it a bias handle. Love how you started with that logo btw 😂
Yeah when you know what you are doing power tools work better, owen can make an awesome handle from scratch in a little time. I found an asymetric handle really improved my standing block accuracy
@@benscottwoodchopper They're pretty interesting. Large triangle-shaped heads, huge cutting surface (5+ inches), thin profiles, often with a chisel grind for better planing etc, often with slip fit handles. Remote Siberians use them for everything. Jordan Jonas says no axe works better for outdoor living.
Hey Ben, I bought the Rinaldi American Boys Axe largely based on your recommendation. The head wobbles out of the box unfortunately, and is much larger around the top of the eye than the handle (front to back), leaving a big gap. I don't know how common that is. Would you recommend sending it back... or just sanding the handle to get as tight of a fit with the sides of the eye as possible.. or making a new handle (I have no experience)?
I hung anxe the other day and the wedge was to thick it didn't go all the way in . Is there a way to gage how thick the wedge needs to be to get a good seat ?
That's one of those things you kind of have to learn by experience it seems. The wedge almost never "goes all the way in", you may have still gotten a good hang. I try to make sure my wedges are going to fill at least 2/3 of the kerf though, the more you can get the better. Obviously it usually needs to be thinned down if you're talking factory wedges, but one of the last things you want is to make it so thin it bottoms out in the kerf....
Honestly in my experience any decent blade will work, I've even used kitchen knives. A spoke shave is faster but can be harder to use in places like the inside of the palm swell. A plain old knife held at 90 degrees or so will produce the desired effect. A blade with a little flex in it can help as well as you can slightly change the way it shaves by flexing it a little with your hands if that makes sense
Hey Ben, would you have some recommendations for light, medium, heavy axes I can use for specifically pollarding, I've been using around 2lb billhooks with long handles over the years but some of my trees have branches that would be better to take off with an axe I think so...
Farriers Rasp/file combination files are excellent as well
No not the logo! 😆 Did the same thing to my GB forest axe. I subscribe to a lot of the "theories" SkillCult has on handles. He's obviously thought a lot about the subject and most of his thoughts on handle shape and construction make a lot of sense to me. Handles just keep getting thicker and thicker, often in the wrong places as well. It's evidence that less and less people are using axes seriously as tools because a thick handle is just a terrible experience. Some manufacturers like Council Tool at least get it close for you. I still tune them up as well though. Love their boy's axes, purchased partly because of your recommendation so thanks for that 😁
Yeah council is the only hickory handle i'm happy enough to use stock, i dont mind stock european ash either depending on the shape
Totally agree - I was talking with a Tree Feller and he told me that where he shops 90% of axes are sold just for making firewood.
@@benscottwoodchopper did you have to modify the bevel on your council tool boys axe quite a bit from stock, because mine, which is pretty old, doesn't look like anyone has ground the bevel at all but its shape is really messed up looking,like if i were to try to see what the angle of the bevel is, it would be different on the top than the bottom. or maybe a better why to describe it is that if when im trying to sharpen it so i take a file and try to mark where the bevel line is it would be a sort of squiggly line
Yes i thin the bevel with a file
The scissors thing was new to me. Thank you.
A simple task to do, highly underated, that brings tons of benefits, in the long run at least. Grab yer rasp 'n start thinin' !
Once you've done a few handles, you can use an angle grinder with a fresh flap wheel to hog off material in a few minutes. Saves me time because I'm lazy :D
Angle grinder, best tool ever👍👍🪓
Hahaha, there goes the logo :))) love it!😂
Thank you for straightforward logical explanation, enjoyed watching.
+1 on the spokeshave. Love those things. Can be had second hand for £12-15 and tuned up! Great vid.
Handle on my new Hults Bruk 26" axe is 23x35mm. That is quite close to your recommended dimensions.
But yeah I am going to thin it little bit. Thanks for tip with scissors.
Excellent tips.
Excellent as always brother 👍🏻👍🏻😎
Great video and great tips thanks!
I tried to thin down the Canadian Biber's handle. I used the lowest grit sandpaper, The spine of an Opinel No8, a sharp 90 degrees glass... it took me forever and it still isn't where I want it. I guess that rasp, is an one way option, if you want to thin down an axe handle. I'm already google searching to get one! Happy new year!!
Don't love your fat handles? Try the Shinto diet, and slim down in no time!
great video Ben
Your asymetrical palm swell comment got me thinking. Have you ever tried filing and sanding in some subtle finger grooves? The grip of a Walther PDP pistol is an excellent example. I wonder if that along with the asymetrical shape would make the ultimate comfort grip.
An asymmetrical palm swell is a great idea!
Don’t know how I missed this. Opening clip was just to piss off the fanboys, eh lol
Ben, have you ever tried elm (Ulmus glabra) for handles? Based on my experience it's better than ash, it's less likely to break due to the handle being damaged under the head. Plus it is not that hard to find a high quality fast grown elm tree as it is growing super fast under the right conditions.
never tried elm but if i find some i will
Can you do a review on the silverline 6lb axe , seems like a great deal for the price. I think any axe is good if it’s sharpened right
Good stuff Ben. Handy tips, ive still gotta try a shinto rasp, usually go the grinder route coz im impatient haha. Spot on about the asymmetrical handle, do it often, i call it a bias handle. Love how you started with that logo btw 😂
Yeah when you know what you are doing power tools work better, owen can make an awesome handle from scratch in a little time. I found an asymetric handle really improved my standing block accuracy
I get a lot of comments about the video where experimented with asymmetrical swells. Now guys are talking about it. Good to see.
That intro! 😂
Happy Christmas Ben
cheers! all the best
Excellent video Ben! Have a Happy Christmas!
@@brettbrown9814 Cheers!
👍👍👏👏
Is a thin handle good for a splitting axe too? Thank you
Salut,tu peux tester des haches Alder pour voir ce que sa vaut.cordialement
Hey Ben, have you tried any of the Russian/Siberian style axes (as seen in Happy People & from Jordan Jonas [Alone])?
Unfortunately never had the chance to try one
@@benscottwoodchopper They're pretty interesting. Large triangle-shaped heads, huge cutting surface (5+ inches), thin profiles, often with a chisel grind for better planing etc, often with slip fit handles. Remote Siberians use them for everything. Jordan Jonas says no axe works better for outdoor living.
Hey Ben, I bought the Rinaldi American Boys Axe largely based on your recommendation. The head wobbles out of the box unfortunately, and is much larger around the top of the eye than the handle (front to back), leaving a big gap. I don't know how common that is. Would you recommend sending it back... or just sanding the handle to get as tight of a fit with the sides of the eye as possible.. or making a new handle (I have no experience)?
Uncommon in my experience. Ultimately up to you
I hung anxe the other day and the wedge was to thick it didn't go all the way in . Is there a way to gage how thick the wedge needs to be to get a good seat ?
That's one of those things you kind of have to learn by experience it seems. The wedge almost never "goes all the way in", you may have still gotten a good hang. I try to make sure my wedges are going to fill at least 2/3 of the kerf though, the more you can get the better. Obviously it usually needs to be thinned down if you're talking factory wedges, but one of the last things you want is to make it so thin it bottoms out in the kerf....
So, any advice on setting up a very cheap spokeshave??
having now broken the last decent pair of scissors in the house...
Keep a look out in antique tool or junk stores, shapens similar to a wood plane
Honestly in my experience any decent blade will work, I've even used kitchen knives. A spoke shave is faster but can be harder to use in places like the inside of the palm swell. A plain old knife held at 90 degrees or so will produce the desired effect. A blade with a little flex in it can help as well as you can slightly change the way it shaves by flexing it a little with your hands if that makes sense
Hey Ben, would you have some recommendations for light, medium, heavy axes I can use for specifically pollarding, I've been using around 2lb billhooks with long handles over the years but some of my trees have branches that would be better to take off with an axe I think so...
muller axes, biber canada 1000
@@benscottwoodchopper Thank you.
Why do you never process ur own handles