C5 Corvette: Oil Pan Removal & Upper Oil Pan Gasket Replacement
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- čas přidán 28. 08. 2024
- The upper oil pan gasket was leaking on my 2003 Corvette. It is necessary to lower the front subframe/cradle/k member and support the engine from the top in order to make room for the oil pan to be removed.
**short oil pan bolts 18 lb ft**
**long oil pan bolts 106 lb in**
Stay tuned for part 2, extracting the broken bolt and installing ARP bolts.
My Resources:
- www.corvettefo...
- • C5 Corvette - Upper Oi...
Two car ramps, 2 hydraulic supports, one engine hoist, one 2 ton hydraulic jack support for oil pan, one 2 ton hydraulic car jack for subframe. Got everything you need
Me: hell yea man what are we doing swapping in a 427 big block?
Your wallet: nope changing a oil pan gasket
This video is a great help for me to determine what I may be in for. I give you a lot of credit for tackling this job on your back. I also like that you do not edit out the errors that we all make. Thanks for taking the time to make this.
Your voice is so laid back. I wish I had the same patience as you.
Thanks for making this video, it's a lot of work , but you made it...
I cried watching this.
I still have flashbacks to snapping the bolt
You cried i'm wishing I wouldn't have Bought this Mother f
I was thinking, "how hard can this be?" 😂 I think I'll go ahead and pay for it.
the way this looked torturous and then snapping the bolt at the final stages i probably would’ve just cried
Thank you so much for making this video. It really helps with education, learning, and working on our Corvettes.
Thank you.
I admire your determination! I did learn something though…. Take it to someone else to have done! Lol.
Aww Man.. Them broken bolts there at the end.. That sucks. I learned my lesson years ago on a valve cover with an aluminum head, Now I always double, and even triple check torque values. I bet from here on out you will too.. This was a good video and you did a great job. I did buy a twin post car lift just for this job.. its been 3 years and I still haven't set if up yet.. I need to get on it.
I did my rear main seal twice trying to stop this oil leak. it was a 12 hour job both times. did not stop my leak. so I was thinking it was the upper oil pan. Turns out most of my problems were on top of the engine. I pulled the intake manifold and changed the Cam Sensor and that seems to have been most of the problem. The valley gasket was in poor shape too. after doing that I came to realize my high pressure hose on the power steering had a small leak in it too. I have stopped about 98% of my oil leak problem and I haven't did the upper oil pan yet. My next move is to replace the gasket on the sensor that's right next too and above the oil filter. that may be a source as well.. Your video shows that sensor and that why I was watching your video. Thanks again.
Thank you! I definitely won’t make that mistake again with torque specs. Oil is still weeping from somewhere, I think it’s the rear main seal. Replacing the gasket still made a big difference and it no longer leaves little puddles where I park. I have a rear main seal and clutch on standby whenever the time comes. I’m slowly going through the engine and replacing gaskets/seals as I upgrade other parts.
@@theshadetreemechanic6751 I am in the process of doing the upper oil pan gasket after putting up with this leak for years. If that doesn't solve my leak I will have to deal with the seal at the rear of the engine just like you. Please make a video of that if you do change it.
@@amenen01 Of course! As long as there isn't a major time crunch to get that done, I'll do my best to make a video of the process.
Nice work, especially considering the conditions.
Wow unbelievable you have patience one thing you should have changed the pick up Tube oring I would gladly take 2000 have that job done Great video
I know the feeling Man, glad u stuck in there. Great video.
Thank you, great learning experience lol
Thanks buddy for making this video! This is going to help me out when I have to tackle my oil pan! I sure hope I don't break any bolts off I am nervous 😂
Excellent video. Thank you for your persistence.
I guess mine is going to keep seeping..
This brings back old painful memories on our C5. I have a lot of respect for the work you did but please tell us how did you get that broken bolt out? We had an pesky oil leak and unfortunately it ended up being the rear main seal which is a huge job !! Like you, we learned a lot about an LS engine by trial and error. Prior to the rear main seal replacement we changed all the upper engine seals (valve covers, valley pan, oil pressure sensor). The leak persisted so we changed the upper and lower oil pan gaskets, oil level, and oil temp sensors. It is very important to go ahead and replace the oil pickup o-ring while you have the oil pan off. To support the engine we took a different technique. We welded a square bracket with legs that rested on the frame in 4 locations. Before unbolting the engine we wrapped a chain around the main cross bar and anchored to the block. At that point we raises the vehicle on a lift and went through the same steps you did. It was very frustrating going through all of this only to find out the oil leak was the rear main seal. If you have to replace the rear seal and end taking it to a shop, make sure they specifically know how to work on a corvette & have good reviews. Also some mechanics do not understand how remove the interior center console without cracking the plastic. Since the consoles are very expensive you could take off both sections before delivery to a mechanic. To own a corvettes take a special person and requires a some serious attention to detain.
I was SUPER lucky with the bolt. When I took the pan off again, the bolt had about 1/4” of thread poking out. Part 2 shows the rest of the project. Running the UV dye in the oil really helped track the leak. The bottom of the car was caked with grime and hard to see without it. The gasket probably fixed 95% of the oil leak. There’s a tiny bit of weeping from the rear main seal but not enough to drip on the ground. I do have a rear main seal on hand and will be replacing it whenever it’s time for a new clutch. 2 birds with 1 stone. I’m the 8th owner of this car, there’s still a lot of TLC to do
Lol i cried reading ur comment
Thanks for the video, need to convert my C5 one piece oil pan to a two piece with the improved racing baffles in there.
Looks like I need to invest in an engine hoist....
Thank You
Good job!
Thank you
I'm crying because I'm doing this right now😪😪😪
Hey did you ever RTV the joint between the upper pan and the rear main seal cover?
Fuck that. It can leak until I pull the motor haha
Please don't use red RTV in an engine to seal from oil. I did it before I knew any better and realized that engine oil degrades red RTV and a leak will emerge where you put the RTV. The black or grey RTV is what is designed for oil. I use Mopar black RTV, it is better than anything Permatex makes. The brand doesn't matter that much though as long as you use the right stuff.
Thats a great tip thanks!!
Seeing this makes me wish I didn't have the '97-'98 oil pan. 😭
Ya did good!!!
My 2009 Z51 just started rod knocking while cruising at 20mph. My plan is to inspect any damages and hopefully just replace the rod bearings since I haven't driven more than 2 miles since. Is there any way to remove the pan without an engine hoist?
Buy a civic!
Damn, dude, I see NO JACKSTANDS!!! Do you live near the ocean? Rotors are really rusty.......
That's what happens when your car is not a daily driver.
Do this job same on c5 zo6 ? Tks
22:59 what is the silver part behind the oil can. Right side of the shot. That’s where the oil is coming from on my car.
That’s your bell housing, it’s probably a rear main seal leak
What color paint on calipers loooks awesome
About how many hours does this take? Thinking of tackling this myself, a speed shop an hour away said they would do it for about $300
hollowshadow1544 I think $300 is a *great* deal. It took me about 3 days due to videoing, breaking the bolt, and rain. I think it could definitely be done in a day or day & a half without those interruptions. It would also help to have a second person’s help for lowering the subframe and removing/installing the oil pan. I learned a lot about the car and myself while doing this job lol
The Shade Tree Mechanic yea my neighbor is gnna help me knock it over a weekend. How did you go about removing that oil sensor you said was a pain to remove?
hollowshadow1544 a combination of small pliers and screwdrivers did the trick. There wasn’t enough room to get my hand up in there and the plug was slippery from oil. If you have stock exhaust manifolds I don’t think this will be as big of an issue.
The Shade Tree Mechanic sounds good, my plan is to install new speed engeneering headers while im down there so that might make it easier to do the oil pan as well
@@hollowshadow1544 oh that's going to be sweet!!
It would be easier just to weld the corners of the pan wtf
Not riveted going back on?
Man it looks like it would be easier to pull the motor
tie rods dont need to be removed