How to stain wood LIKE A PRO! Pine wood staining tips and tricks
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- čas přidán 23. 01. 2020
- Tired of your wood stain coming out all blotchy. This product will help take your woodworking projects to the next level and help you stain wood like a pro. pine wood staining tips and tricks
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Just my two cents. Generally most professionals will not use a wood conditioners since it does not give the results you may think it does on certain species. In terms of staining certain species where the end result is blotchy, water popping is the solution. As a hardwood floor contractor we stain jobs that are anywhere from a couple hundred square feet to a couple thousand feet and more. The last thing we or our clients want would be to have their final product be blotchy. What is water popping some may ask. Whatever your project may be weather a table top or a couple thousand feet of wood flooring your sand job must be done correctly. I'll speak in terms of a wood floor. Although the process for all projects are the same. Once we are done sanding a wood floor and ready to apply a stain, we water pop the floor first. Literally we are on our hands and knees with a 5 gallon bucket of water and a car wash sponge washing the floor. Not flooding the floor with water. Simply washing the floor. That then sits over night which once it dries also raises and swells the grain of the wood. Then we stain over the water popped floor. We then allow the stain to dry. The following day we begin our polyurethane process. If you touch the project after you water pop it and after you stain it, it will be rough in texture. This is normal since the process has raised and swollen the grain of the wood which is the intent. Some abrade the stain after it's applied and dried with a maroon pad. Most wait to knock the grain raise down by abrading their first coat of finish. In our case polyurethane. A couple of the more bitchy species to stain would be the tight grain hardwood lumbers such as birch and maple ETC. Staining maple is like shooting a BB gun at a freight train. Stain a maple floor without water popping and uneven, blotchy results is what you will yield. Water pop it, let it dry over night then stain and a nice even color is what you end up with. For those who read this and do it there are two simple keys you must do for success. 1) Wash the project, don't flood it. 2) The water popping process must dry over night. For those who have a moisture meter it's best to take a moisture reading before water popping, and after water popping to ensure all the water has evaporated where the moisture content of the lumber is the same after you water popped as it was before you water popped. As a side note just know that water popping will give the color much more depth. In many cases it also will be a shade or so darker.
Thank you gentleman!
I took all notes
Thanks. I'm about to try it
You're right. The water is the best way , but if you do use the wood conditioner on small projects , like I use to , you apply it against the grain . Not with the grain like this guy's video .
You wipe it off using a wiping cloth , going with the grain .
The water popping does bring a deeper stain . I had to apply 2 coats of stain when I used the wood conditioner vs. the water .
Thanks for the comment .
You seem to know your stuff. I have a piece of scrap wood that was from an old table that belonged to my great grandad. My Grandaddy let me have it after he had sanded it and everything when he was clearing out his shed and trying to throw things out. I have no idea what kind of wood it is, I just know it WAS like a reddish color before he sanded it.
I had an entire novel typed out of everything I’ve done to this little experiment slab I have, but my phone did the whole “select all, cut” thing and I’m so mad.
Anyways, every time I sand it, or strip it, or clean it, even if it’s dry… these little dots come up. At first I thought it was moisture but it doesn’t evaporate. I don’t think it’s sap. It has almost an oily consistency.
I guess from the supposed era it was from, it could be mahogany because that’s what was popular at the time. I’m not planning on doing anything other than messing with it and testing things on it. But I’ve used a conditioner pre stain stripper… you name it, I’ve done it. I’ve used a colored wash, a poly-stain, a gel stain, oils, stain then poly, EVERYTHING.
Every single time, it comes out so blotchy that it looks like a child did it. No matter what application technique I used. I have no idea what kind of wood it is. I haven’t found anything online about what woods just weep oily little dots.
So, if I actually needed to to do something with this little table top, and I came across this same mystery wood/problem, do you think something as simple as “ water plopping” could help?
I’m just baffled at this thing and I don’t know if I’ll ever figure out what species it is. But I’ve never really worked with refurbishing or experimenting with a single mahogany piece this big so I guess if mahogany is like this then it all makes sense. Would that be a species that you would water plop?
What temperature is the water when you do it?
I’ve tried to find forums and posted a couple of times on Reddit about it but I’ve gotten no helpful info. I’ve also talked about it to every old man in the hardware store here. (I don’t think they really take me seriously and literally just suggest I do something easier like chalk paint and distress it. I’m assuming it’s because I’m a petite young woman and look like the kind of person who is into doing that. But my Grandaddy was a carpenter and made furniture, houses, chapels, cabinets, flooring… You name it. And I’ve been working with him on all of those things almost my entire life until he passed away in 2019 and I carry on his work as a hobby and sometimes extra income).
Like I mentioned though, I’m not ever making anything out of this. I planned on just using it to test things or let my daughter paint on it to keep her entertained while I’m working on something else.
But I can’t even get a decent test area and now I’m just determined to figure it out.
Sorry for the long reply 9 months later! I thought you might be my chance to maybe get some solid input or advice! It’s not a huge deal, more like an unsolved mystery I’ve accepted I’ll never solve haha. But it would be nice to find something that worked just in case I ever do come across this same issue on a custom piece in the future!
Hope you all had a lovely holiday season and happy new year! Thanks for reading!
I was just about to stain my bench but now I just must go get some pre-stain conditioner And I'll use a rag instead of the brush, Thank You
Good luck Sandy!
M
You can use shellac too
Sameeeee haha
Ive been a professional wood worker for 50 years. Lots of experience with stain and lacquer. Conditioner is not as necessary on hardwoods as it is on pine or other softwoods. Try a sample piece and make sure to sand everything well before staining. If you are using an oil based stain such as min wax or watco, be sure to soak all stain rags, disposable sponge brushes etc. in water before disposal. These stains have a tendency to self combust. You could save your shop by being careful. Good luck
Is there anything you can do to increase the absorbency of the wood if you want to stain really dark?
@@jamesmcinnis208 darker stain or multiple coats
@@90mphsleep How does a darker stain or multiple coats increase the absorbency of the wood?
@@jamesmcinnis208 it doesn't. If you want it to be darker, use a darker stain or multiple coats. Or use a different wood in the first place
@@90mphsleep So you didn't understand my question or don't know the answer. It's blatantly obvious that if you want something darker you can use multiple coats or use a darker stain or more absorbent wood. If you don't know the answer to my question then there's no point in you responding to a question I didn't ask and wasting my time.
Thanks you saved my upcoming project from botches. However, that means another trip to the hardware store.
Lol, your welcome and sorry haha
Nice comparison demo. I use the pre-stain and although it does greatly reduce the blotching, it really doesn't eliminate it all. I'm a beginner so all I buy right now is the big box store cheap pine and it is easy to work and cut but really hard to finish.
When you think staining is the hard part but the actual hard part is the sanding😂😂
This hahha
I’ve been sanding for 10 long ass years these past 3 days 😭😭
Omg yes!!!
@@ashleyh4509 lol
Reading my freaking mind lol
I am remodeling my studio and chose to paint and stain my new work benches myself (for some reason I thought I was smart) thank you for this real nas like video. It was very informative
Thank you. I had the minwax, but didn't know about using a rag instead of a brush. Great save.
I was just about to stain my bathroom door but decided to look for a staining video just in case someone had an interesting trick or two. I love this idea and am going to order it before I even consider touching my door. Thank you!
Awesome, and thanks for the comment Maria!!!
"It aint nice liike" Got a like just for that! 😁
Haha, thanks bro...that's real nice like!
I just started using this product on some basswood picture frames I've been making. The problem with color difference was pretty substantial. After using the pre stain the colors were much more consistent. I have always used minwax but I bought a small can of rust oleum dark walnut stain. The rust oleum looks more like walnut on the basswood than the minwax dark walnut. I really like the rust oleum stain.
This bodes well for my relatively unresearched stain choice for my maple fireplace mantle :D. Go Rust-Oh go!
Thank you for your advice. My husband had bought pre stain conditioner and I grabbed it after your video and it worked great!
Awesome!!!!! Thanks for letting me know Mama👊👊👊
Doing some research for my man cave project and I will be using the pre-stain. Thanks for the tip.
Commentary is the best!
Thanks for the vid!
Nice video, the pre stain wood conditioner makes a huge difference to me, remember to let it do it’s job for at least 15 minutes and under 2 hours, I get beautiful results every time
Pretty much everyone advises to use the pre-conditioner before staining but honestly, I think it looks worse on every test piece I've ever tried it on. For me, the key to reducing or preventing splotchiness is proper sanding. It's easy to think you don't need to sand because "it's smooth enough" or whatever but stain makes everything "pop" and there are often hidden scratches and saw marks that really pop when you apply the stain. Sand those out beforehand and you will avoid most of the blotchiness without having to use a conditioner.
Water pop your project.
Wrong. Use conditioner. Sanding doesn't replace conditioner. Not even close.
Thank u so much for the tip. Saved e time and money.. Working on my first project utilizing stain for the first time👌
@@levigivens really?
@@samwright285 sanding helps but I learned the hard way, you WILL have blotches without prestain. An extra $8 for conditioner will save you from ruining your project which took hours of work.
Thank You , most definitely going to go buy this product today. You are going to make my custom cabinets look fabulous!!! Thank you again 💜
Thanks 🙏 for you help! You’re amazing!
God bless!
I'm a Minwax lover, was raised on it because my parents were Antique dealers, I too am dealing with antiques, but just starting a year ago, with the furniture, big, big, difference by using Pre Stain on my antiques, and the buyer comments on the finish every time. Thanks for your video, just kinda sealed the deal on Minwax Pre Stain.
I respect ALL opinions, but who needs Prayers? Btw, GOD AND JESUS LOVES ALL ALWAYS, and will NEVER LEAVE ANYONE!!!!! THEY ALWAYS HAVE THE BEST PLAN!!!! MAY GOD BLESS YOU AND EVERYONE!!!! Also, Please don’t use God’s and Jesus’s name in vain like, “Oh my Go*” Please copy this and paste this on CZcams, Twitter, Instagram, etc. THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!
Do you use pre-stain on every time of wood, including oak?
I had minwax and didn't know what to use it for I thought it was like a glaze but now that I know what it's for I can use it for what it's supposed to be used for thank you I appreciate your knowledge
So glad I saw this! I am staining my walls and it looks horrible. Now I know!!
Found this at the perfect time. Thank you much!!
Thanks for the insight, excited to start my first wood working project and of course there will be electronics inside.
This guy cracks me up
i'm experimenting with a 1:3 poly/odorless paint thinner mix that seems to penetrate about 5mm into the wood with one very light wiping coat, specifically for pine. the mixture ends up a good deal thinner than typical wipe on poly. this mix has performed extremely well so far, and it's something most people should already have around the shop, so i'd suggest people give it a try on a test piece to see if they like the results.
Not only was this entertaining but soooo helpful! So happy I found this video before I started my project
Awesome! Thanks so much for the comment, and good luck on your project KELKAY!
Moist.....not moist..... lmao
I'm going to tell you within the first 13 seconds you answer of my important question! I'm so glad I chose you and thanks for making this video
Jeez did I get lucky! I was just about to stain a blanket ladder I built for my fiance before I figured I should watch a how to video first.
Of course the only things I had were the stain and a FOAM BRUSH haha. Guess I'm going back to the hardware store for conditioner and rags!
You saved my project. Thank you!
Glad it helped Will!
The ladder turned out great! The color was exactly what we were going for and not a single smudge thanks to your advice. Thanks again. Cheers.
That's awesome Will!!! Thanks so much for letting me know 👊
Good comparison, i'm convinced. About to redo a tabletop, and was looking for techniques. I appreciate it!
Let me know how it turns out!
Oh my! How I wish I had known about this product a long long time ago. 🇨🇦
They didn’t tell us we would need the conditioner, but I’m going to get it before I stain our countertops. Thank you!
Love this product. I have never sanded/stained before. But, our front door was a disaster after 30 years and my 90 yr/old. He told me “only use Minwax” and this popped up on Amazon when I googled. Needless to say, the door looks great. Can’t say enough about how this product goes on, I used a brush, and the tone was great. I added 2 Coates with Minwax gel stain and amazing. Came here looking for sanding after staining tips and found your video.
I am mechicanially declined and have never dont any wood working at all, let alone sanding and staining. It turned out fantastic.
Awesome! Thanks for the feedback GeophysGal!!!
It's actually same as what I did on my stain video. Nice vid bro
So, my dad gave me this sweet box and I thought it was just a bit too yellowy, so what to do but sand and stain it... Which I've never done before! I'm thanking you right now for your videos!
Never used pre stain, always sanded the wood then used a rag for staining (never use a brush!) Never had the issues he demonstrated.
What do you sand up too?
@@Grumplefut to whatever is needed to achieve a perfect smooth finish, as long its soft and free of any scratches and so on
I've found that you get basically no blotchiness whatsoever if you hit pine really hard with the pre-stain. And by that, I mean putting it on as sloppy and wet as possible, letting it sit for a few minutes, wiping off the excess, then staining a half out later. I never get any blotchiness anymore by basically drenching the wood with the pre-stain.
Is it necessary to pre-stain pine that's already treated but needs a refresh? I plan to lightly sand an old pine cupboard and apply a fresh coat of stain. Do I need to pre-stain?
Awesome! Going to buy some right now!
Definitely going to try it now
Thanks for the demo; already planned on it, but like to see what possibilities...
Dude, stain in long continuous strokes with the grain. You get the blotchiness from just rubbing the foam brush all over the place in random directions
Love minwax products and decided to try the prestain conditioner
Man, quick and easy, a great tip!
Thanks! I am about to try and stain for the first time. I guess I'll be running to the store to grab some pre stain. It really does look so much better
Let me know how it works out maegen!
Very helpful. This video was real nass like!!!
I've never used stain, though my mom was a carpenter so I grew up around it. I have some wood to stain so I really appreciate these tips.
My Father was a carpenter... Ba dum tss. Thank-you I'll be here all week, Try the Stain.
Wonderful thank you so much
I bet the negative reviews are because he said moist several times. In all seriousness, this was a very helpful video!
Thank you! I'm going to do this for my shelves.
Let me know how it works out 👊
Back to the store I go for the wood stain conditioner I didn't know i needed! Lol. Thanks!
Hahaha 🤣
Thanks so much for the video. It was really helpful. And thanks for not giving us all the detail on the history of wood staining and when it was invented and who invented it.
Very quick and informative video. Thanks a lot.
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks, very helpful.
going to use this... have kitchen cabinet project we will be starting soon
Awesome video thank you
I've used it before. I'm here because they used to call it grain leveler and it didn't turn up in any searches. It's pre-stain conditioner now. It's the only way to go, especially trim. It makes the wood that would normally look very different from board to board look consistent. Make one board your master, label it, and stain to match the rest.
Not only informative, but very funny! Thank you!
Thanks Grieving!!!
Love this stuff
Thank you. This is the best video I found on staining
Awesomeness 👊👊👊
THANK YOU! I’m a wood staining newby, as I’m redoing my kitchen cabinets diy style. This tutorial was extremely helpful! Question: for kitchen cabinets would you recommend oil or water based stain?
Hi Angie! I would 100% recommend the oil base stain. Water base just never looks good to me and does not look as good. Not to mention that the oil base will hold up much better after a lot of the using and abusing over time. Hope this helps!
Tool Review Zone thank you! I’ve already done 2 cabinet doors - stripped the white paint off, sanded, and applied wood conditioner and stain - and they look great!
Someone recommend the pre-stain conditioner to me several years back. I bought a small can, used it, and have never stained without it since. It's a real boot to the berries to put so much time and effort into a project to have it all be for naught because of the stain. Great vid.
Im new to woodworking and built my son a loft bed so staining is my next step thankfully I found your video as I was gonna just rub stain on it 😬 guess I better get some pre stain.. subscribed
Welcome to the channel Frank!!!!
Good video - I never thought of using a rag.
Great video! You made it helpful and funny!
Phew, so glad I watched
I am going to try this out this weekend. I have a small project I am staining. Thanks for the tip👍
Let me know how it works out for you John
@@ToolReviewZone does it lighten the stainup by a couple of shades. should I go darker with the stain
@@johnrice9121 it wont let it sink is as far and will lighten it up a bit. Just put a second coat on and it should be fine 👊
Nice review. Never heard of pre-stain....until I read it on the can....Now I'm here. Just so happen you are using a stair tread like I am doing. Got mine from Home Depot. I like the knotless look. And I am using the exact same color! Like the vid was made for me...lol Thanks
Awesome, thanks for the comment Kraner!!!
Definitely gonna start using the it..
Your video helped me out so freakin much
Thank you! So informative!
Thanks!!!
I've always used tack cloth and a purdy brush or spray on it works every time.
I am getting ready to stain a large oak headboard. Have had some oak flooring I got from my Grandpa's store when he died in the late 60's. I like the rag rather than a brush. Minwax suggests a brush, but i have gone to several sites and without fail they recommend rags.
That's actually the exact stain that I need!
I sand, wipe good with moist cotton rag, let dry off 10 minutes, mix linseed oil 50/50 mineral turps about two cups total and put a bit of dark stain in about table spoon, then start applying coats by rubbing into the wood and wiping smooth, leave, repeat until its as dark as i want. Maybe a sand between the final coats. I like just getting a light chocolate look to natural pine. Its not that dark but a chocolaty look.
I am definitely going to try the pre-stain conditioner. Thank you
Let me know how it works for you!!!
@@ToolReviewZone I sure will.
I love love this video. Dude you are not only helpful and informative, but you are pretty funny
Haha, thanks Karrie, I really appreciate the comment 👊
Thanks for the tip I’m doing some staining today
Let me know how it works out for you👊
Perfect! 👋🤩
in the second round, where he used a cloth for everything other the pre conditioner..I felt like the difference was just barely noticeable other than being significantly darker on the side that did not have pre conditioner..right? But noticeable. So if I go back over the pre conditioned, stained, and then add another layer of stain. how long should i wait to apply second layer of stain to get darker?/will it make it much darker?
Good video Clint
If you don't have the pre-stain, it already looks a lot better by using a rag, not a brush, but the pre-stain is definitely the killer ingredient.
You did that real nice like.
I wasn't going to use the pre-stain conditioner due to time and budget constraints, but after watching your video I've decided to rethink my decision. I'm doing a t&g ceiling, and I'm looking for some variation, but I want control of the variation.
Hey brooo lmk how it went if you can. I’m doing the exact same on momday
Wish I knew this before I did my project. Thank you. Now I'm gonna 60 grit belt sand 😆 and start over
Thank you
I just bought there minwax stain but haven't used it yet. Going to go get this asap!
Me too!
I just got two small pine swinging indoor doors. The kind you see in old western bars where the fight ends up going through the swinging doors and breaks. Anyway I have mini wax wood finish penetrating stain. It’s a small can but I have the color sample if I need more
Do I need the Condioning stain first? Thanks
Thanks
Confusing video because of constant rotation of the wood. Keep your test product oriented to one side.
Do you have any tips to fill in oversanded areas where the color has changed ? Im hoping to "patch" the color to avoid sanding the rest of the table down to the bare wood to match. Any info helps
I was really trying to avoid the conditioning step on the 60 T&G boards I'm about to tackle, but staring at a splotchy ceiling until I die sounds worse than one extra step. No time for laziness: Tongue and groove is expensive! Thanks for the video!
That's definitely a factor. I get impatient and hate waiting for stuff to dry but you're right, one day of waiting to make it look better for the next 60 years is definitely worth it.
My current nightmare. Except it’s 86 boards of Redwood T&G. Wish I was here sooner.
No gloves? You are my hero. Great video!
That was real nice like. A++
Realll, nasss, Like ! thanks
Looks good.
Why color stain did you use?
I'm looking for a slightly darker stain color for some pine wood shelves.
REAL NICE LIKE!👍🏻
Love your video. I learned a lot. Real nass like!!!!!
Haha, glad it helped Viv!!!
Nice demonstration, but please don't rotate the wood in the middle of the comparison....very confusing. This could be improved during editing by adding some overlay text to more clearly indicate which is which.
srs? confusing? how old are you? 10? Jesus Christ.
@@kasparsjansons9220 it is confusing when you are speed running videos to finish your project!
Kaspars Jansons damn dawg chill lol
I was gonna reply same thing cause it threw me off, I mean you don’t have to be 10 to think that the project wood on the video (especially when you are “comparing” two sides of a piece of wood) that they don’t get flipped to opposite sides in the middle of tutorial, totally threw me off and I consider myself pretty intelligent. I mean why would you do that? But I did appreciate the tutorial and it got the point across, use conditioner and use a rag on pine.
@@sghrigsby1 Looks like we have Americans on our hands. I've also speed run my projects, but goddman, this is not a rocket science. He even shows both sides of the board before they are stained. How much more straight forward can he get? Only Americans would ask for adding overlay text. I didn't mean to belittle someone, but these comments are sad.
I will use it next time!
It ain’t niiice like. 😂😂 I was not expecting for this video to make me crack up so much.
What would you process be to stain and finish pine tongue and groove planks? Is there a mill glaze?