FYI for those new to this is a SI Tech exhaust valve. Thanks for the tear down it made and over due maintenance job much easier. Cheers, #SeattleRingHunter
Wish I had seen this video BEFORE I was told by the shop keepers and dry suit shop that Si-Tech/Bare exhaust valves are non-serviceable and spent CAD$85. Its perfectly serviceable and cleans up nicely with the help of these instructions. Thanks Jackson Light!
There's a few instructions on disassembly kicking around but this is the first one that goes into popping the bottom half off. Thanks so much for sharing. On mine, I actually had to bore a 64mm hole in a block of wood and pop the base in a bench vise rather than by thumb and hand per 2:50 into the video. Good knowing that it was going to work though. And yeah, another busted ratchet spring but it seems to work ok regardless.
The wrong assembly of the spring will cause damage to the piston seat when manual deflation is pressed. Inside the piston is a hemissphere on which the flat side of the spring has to go. So the spring can move sideways without conducting sideways force to the piston when manual deflation is pressed. I once got a wrong assembled ex valve from sitech... some teeth were broken, causing leakage...
Thank you so much for this video! My dump valve on Waterproof suit started leaking so I had to take it apart. There was some fine silt inside everywhere. This video helped me a lot to disassemble it quickly and without breaking anything!
Hey, I’m having a problem getting it out of my waterproof d7, is it possible to disassemble while still in the suit? Mine leaks a every little bit and I think it might be a silt problem because of some tight passages while mine/cave diving....
Small points: 1) The small piston like center guide goes to the bottom of the spring, not the top as shown in the video. This is according to SiTech's exploded view of the unit I also placed the plastic disk that fits the spring to the bottom as it seems to help guide the small piston like center guide. This small ring that obviously fits the spring is not identified in the SiTech document; and, 2) The basket adjustment lid that tensions the unit goes in more cleanly if you engage the three prongs from the retainer into it and also carefully locate the female screw down just prior to the receiving threads. Then when you push down on the adjustment lid and simultaneously turn the base unit it engages immediately.
Thank you Richard, I had to figure it out myself but I'd like to stress out importance of your points to anybody who will use this tutorial. What happened is that I was able to put it back together but due to wrong assembly (even though it's not obvious) I had increased resistance even if the valve was fully open. For those who just serviced their valve just like me I suggest that right after you've put it back together, try to open the valve all the way and blow into it (just put a threaded end in your mouth and blow). You should feel no resistance. If you've assembled it wrong you'll certainly feel that you need to create a certain pressure to come through valve. You can also try to blow through the valve when you've just taken it out of the drysuit and before disassembly. Difference between fully open and fully closed is apparent and easy to tell even without any gauge. That may save you a dive. (I had to cancel a dive when I was in water and discovered that my valve is not dumping air as easily as it should be).
As Richard Money correctly notes, the piston should go to the bottom of the spring. It makes a HUGE difference on my valve Tip: Blow through the valve before putting it back on the suit When open, it should be very easy to blow through, if assembled correctly
just took mine apart and noticed the black ring that goes inside the spring was on the opposite end of the spring. Hopefully this will resolve the leak issue I have been having and had pretty much narrowed down to the valve. Was about to buy a new valve so this was was a pretty much take it apart what have I got to loose. IF it resolve the issue I will buy you a beer
FYI for those new to this is a SI Tech exhaust valve. Thanks for the tear down it made and over due maintenance job much easier. Cheers, #SeattleRingHunter
Wish I had seen this video BEFORE I was told by the shop keepers and dry suit shop that Si-Tech/Bare exhaust valves are non-serviceable and spent CAD$85. Its perfectly serviceable and cleans up nicely with the help of these instructions. Thanks Jackson Light!
I'm happy to help and glad that this video useful for you.
There's a few instructions on disassembly kicking around but this is the first one that goes into popping the bottom half off. Thanks so much for sharing. On mine, I actually had to bore a 64mm hole in a block of wood and pop the base in a bench vise rather than by thumb and hand per 2:50 into the video. Good knowing that it was going to work though. And yeah, another busted ratchet spring but it seems to work ok regardless.
Great video, saved me a lot of grief when servicing my exhaust valve. Well done.
The wrong assembly of the spring will cause damage to the piston seat when manual deflation is pressed. Inside the piston is a hemissphere on which the flat side of the spring has to go. So the spring can move sideways without conducting sideways force to the piston when manual deflation is pressed. I once got a wrong assembled ex valve from sitech... some teeth were broken, causing leakage...
Thank you so much for this video! My dump valve on Waterproof suit started leaking so I had to take it apart. There was some fine silt inside everywhere. This video helped me a lot to disassemble it quickly and without breaking anything!
Hey, I’m having a problem getting it out of my waterproof d7, is it possible to disassemble while still in the suit? Mine leaks a every little bit and I think it might be a silt problem because of some tight passages while mine/cave diving....
Small points: 1) The small piston like center guide goes to the bottom of the spring, not the top as shown in the video. This is according to SiTech's exploded view of the unit I also placed the plastic disk that fits the spring to the bottom as it seems to help guide the small piston like center guide. This small ring that obviously fits the spring is not identified in the SiTech document; and, 2) The basket adjustment lid that tensions the unit goes in more cleanly if you engage the three prongs from the retainer into it and also carefully locate the female screw down just prior to the receiving threads. Then when you push down on the adjustment lid and simultaneously turn the base unit it engages immediately.
Thank you Richard, I had to figure it out myself but I'd like to stress out importance of your points to anybody who will use this tutorial. What happened is that I was able to put it back together but due to wrong assembly (even though it's not obvious) I had increased resistance even if the valve was fully open. For those who just serviced their valve just like me I suggest that right after you've put it back together, try to open the valve all the way and blow into it (just put a threaded end in your mouth and blow). You should feel no resistance. If you've assembled it wrong you'll certainly feel that you need to create a certain pressure to come through valve. You can also try to blow through the valve when you've just taken it out of the drysuit and before disassembly. Difference between fully open and fully closed is apparent and easy to tell even without any gauge. That may save you a dive. (I had to cancel a dive when I was in water and discovered that my valve is not dumping air as easily as it should be).
Thanks a lot, really helped me out. My plastic 'spring' had snapped causing it to turn roughly and sometimes jam
As Richard Money correctly notes, the piston should go to the bottom of the spring. It makes a HUGE difference on my valve
Tip: Blow through the valve before putting it back on the suit
When open, it should be very easy to blow through, if assembled correctly
Thanks heaps, almost bought a new one!
just took mine apart and noticed the black ring that goes inside the spring was on the opposite end of the spring. Hopefully this will resolve the leak issue I have been having and had pretty much narrowed down to the valve. Was about to buy a new valve so this was was a pretty much take it apart what have I got to loose. IF it resolve the issue I will buy you a beer
Спасибо тебе большое, брат дайвер!
Great vid ! THanks !
omg thank you soooooo much for this vid.
Many thanks
Great - thanks..