102 Clunking Milling Machine Repair
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- čas přidán 23. 10. 2019
- Please Note: I am a beginning machinist and I do not pretend to know everything. Please always operate machinery in a safe manner and if you don't know, find a reliable source. DO NOT COPY ME. I make a lot of mistakes. I provide these videos for entertainment only.
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![Bridgebort Milling Machine [Rescue]](/img/n.gif)
Awesome you fixed and did not have to pay repairman. I love saving money on repairs and doing it myself.Another awesome video
Watching in Alabama
Thank you very much. I really appreciated saving $500 and a weeks use of the mill.
That variable speed system is a very simple version of a CVT found in some of today's vehicles, a belt and a couple of variable pulleys and you basically have infinite speeds.
Great video and explanation of what went wrong and how its easily fixed.
Thanks for the info.
Speed Selector makes variable speed pulleys that replace the Reeves, Hi-Lo pulleys and TB Woods that went out of business or got bought. Most of the pulleys are in stock or Speed Selector will custom make if needed. They have an actual engineering department who were very helpful.
Thanks for the tip. That is really useful and appreciated.
Sounds great now. Nice repair!
Very kind, thanks. So far so good.
Always nice to find that it doesn't have to go to the manufacturer for repairs. That wrench left a bit of a mark on the motor. A Sharp Impact.
Mature Patriot / Vernon Currier My first thought too, but then I figured “wait a minute, mills rotate in the other direction ...”. 😉
@@MyTubeSVp Maybe he had the mill in reverse?
That was where the damage happened. I was really surprised at how deep the wrench went in a single partial revolution. I do have a chunk of brass on the end as a tapper for the drawbar.
In the last two days I rebuilt my Supermax head and my Acra head. Both are late 1980's variable speed machines that were purchased new with Anilam Crusader II CNC retrofits. More recently they have been upgraded to the Acu-rite MILLPWR G2. The Supermax is a better design (in my own humble opinion) when it comes to access to the internal components and removing the motor. The Acra head is much more of a challenge. The first thing you should do is to compress the spring by the screws mentioned in the video. Both of mine take 10-32 screws. To make it easier initially, crank the variable speed until it is at minimum spindle speed. This will compress the spring and allow you to use shorter screws to compress the spring to the maximum thus opening up the pulley.
If you have to disassemble the pulley from the motor you will need several screw lengths. When the spring is uncompressed it will take rather long screws to start the compression. Once they are bottomed out you remove one and swap out for shorter screws one side at a time. Repeat the process with progressively shorter screws until the spring is completely compressed.
When re-mounting the motor I use tie-wraps to hold the belt open and in an extended position so it will slip more easily onto the pulley. Your mileage may vary.
Thanks for the great tips and feedback - they will help more than just me.
Very informative and well presented....!
Thanks. I really appreciate you taking the time to comment.
Our near identical Saber branded mills use M6-1.0 bolts to compress the drive pulley spring.
Tip: Get a bunch of lengths. When you go to safely uncompress the spring, you compress 1st to get the snap ring out, then walk out 1 bolt (pay attention to how much threaded length you have left!) and swap it for a longer bolt and draw that longer bolt in. then loosen out the shorter bolt and swap that for a longer one, repeat this alternating/stepping to larger bolts until it is relieved enough that you can easily press it with your hand. Similar for going back in.
*do all of that with it on the motor shaft. It will keep things from shifting in a bad way and if something does break give that some direction/constraint.
Also, you will probably need to make a special tool with 2 bolts spaced for the holes in the washer, so that you can realign the washer holes with the threaded holes when you need to service this or the belt again in the future.
I appreciate the tips. Thanks. I ended up getting a couple of pieces of threaded rod to do what you are recommending.
I'm hoping my Lagun FTV-2S has the same type assembly. As far as clunking sounds, it isn't bad at all, but it is noticeable and it's getting worse. Realizing suddenly there may be eventual keyway damage, I may need to investigate and repair sooner rather than later. Thank you for the awesome info!!
I'm glad my video might have helped you in some small way. Your comments are the best kind of payback for making videos like this.
great repair,enjoyed
Thanks.
The old reach around and fondle in the dark technology, classic all round utility remade, timeless classic still relevant today.
Thanks. I love the creative word play.
On my mill (Kent KTM- 5VK) which is also a rebranded Topwell like many, there were two of the access cover bolts that were longer than the third. These two bolts are the spring compression bolts for removing the lower sheave.
That is definitely handy.
Nice job! I always wondered what those looked-like inside...
Thanks for the comments, as always.
That was interesting, as I don't have a Bridgeport-style mill (yet) and was wondering how the variable speed mechanism worked. I didn't realize it was two variable sheaves like a car CVT. What a difference in noise, good repair!
Thanks. I was lucky to have a very generous repair guy walk me through the process over the phone and for free. I was really fortunate.
Great repair . From what i have seen it can be a bit of a juggle to get the motor back in . I did get my one fired up , the noise is worse on camera but it has been sitting for years so i am hoping for the best . Cheers .
Thanks. I am sure if anyone can deal with problems with your mill, it will be you. I have really enjoyed the lathe repair series and learned a ton.
Thank you, yes.. I was wondering how I was going to put it back together by myself. I will do it and put to 5/16 bolts in it and do it the easy way thank you. Sorry you had to do it the hard way but it did show people there is an easier way to do things! haha!!
Live and learn. At first I thought I was just getting lucky, but then reality set in.
these day's, i ALWAYS check youtube for a video before i repair stuff. H&W machine in ft wayne IN has videos on this very repair
Excellent resource, thanks.
That went fairly well. I need to replace the bearings in my mill. Not looking forward to it.
I'm right there with you. I was really apprehensive about digging in to the milling head. Of the videos I have watched about actual Bridgeports, most showed some real difficulties with disassembly, if you don't have experience.
Your ears are going to love you now! What a difference...
Yep. It's so nice to use the mill now. I damaged it just shortly after I bought it, so I barely remebered what it sounded like before the "incident".
Glad you could get parts and no damage to the shaft
In the older units of this type the rebuild kit had a mandrel and you set the bushings into epoxy to restore a good fit
Now most you have to buy a complete new pulley
We had lots of this kind of transmission at my plant and all the repair kits came with a tube of epoxy. In fact, the struggle was the work needed to clean the pieces of the old bushing and epoxy from the slots.
Well
At least the belts our not canvas and wood anymore with babbit bearings
I talked to ACRAs service rep and he said that the epoxy was only necessary in versions where the bushing had a bit of slop. He said I could add some if it looked like the bushing could slip a bit. Mine was really tight. I could barely get the shaft into the bushing. I suspect that the fit was a slight interference junction. Maybe 0.0002" I think they were counting on a bit of compression. I was concerned that there might be too much friction for the pully to adjust properly, but the forces involved made the fear a non-issue.
Sometimes we can get lucky. Great video, thank you for the great information.
Yea, I really appreciate times like those.
Nice video and good repair...
Thanks. Much appreciated.
Would those screws open that pulls up enough to make installation easy?
I am not too sure about what you are suggesting. If I have to do this project again, I will use the threaded rod holes provided in the pully assy. I purchased the M5x0.8mm threaded rod just in case.
@@DudleyToolwright If you used the threaded rods, and compressed the spring, it would allow you to open up the motor pulley and allow the belt to seat fully into it, removing the the side load.
Sir, please, can you share where did you buy the bushings?
Sure, I bought them directly from ACRA in Rancho Cucamonga, CA.
@@DudleyToolwright Thanks a lot.
What kind of bearings in it?
In the motor? I'm not sure.
Holy crap...this is what my Acer 4VK sounds like.... THANK YOU!! What's the part number of those bushings?
You are so welcome. I am sorry, I never got a part number. I called ACRA Machinery and they pointed my to a mobile repair guy that makes the parts himself and I ordered 3 sets.
@@DudleyToolwright So uh.....who's the local repair guy....
👍
Al.
Thanks.
To have a fine machine sound like that.. Ouch, that must have been awful to listen to, and worrying about how bad the problem could be. Happy for ya. Did you do a happy dance? hahaha
Very much so. You must have been in my head. Worse still, the noise wasn't always consistant. Sometimes the mill would sound relatively normal for a few weeks. I did do a mental happy dance. Definately. Thanks for sympathizing.
Our SuperMax May have similar problem
Sorry to hear that. I hope the video helps in some way.
Those rattling variable speed sheaves are the major reason I never liked variable speed heads. Make of the mill is irrelevant, they all do it.
Great feedback. Thanks. I have limited experience with other mills.
The holes were not 90° off when you had the keyway lined up correctly. At first I thought you were joking.
I was a bit surprised as well and then realized my mistake. Trying to narrate and think at the same time often cause neither to work well...
My rule number 1, I always blame the wife too. I can usually get a new tool out of the deal. Glad you didn’t have to send it out for repair
Me too. It would have been at least a couple of weeks gone and about $500. My wife is really a peach and rarely even comments on tool purchases. You did a fantastic job on that wheel guard. Great video.