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Great video man, keep'um coming..

Gday Robert, interesting build mate, looking forward to seeing the next episode, cheers

To clean aluminum buildup on a carbide cutter, just drop the cutter in caustic soda (lye) and water solution and the aluminum will dissolve.

EXCELLENT VIDEO I subbed. You're VERRRY thorough. Thank you

Solid video...thank you

Great video man, keep'um coming.

Hopefully you can find some goodies at the swap meet to take home.

Do you think that piece of Titanium is expensive? A Thomson Titanium mountain bike riser handlebar is $707.00🍁, a Thomson Titanium seat post is about $400.00🍁. A 5Dev 6/4 Titanium mountain bike stem is about $550.00🍁; and their 6/4 Titanium mountain bike cranks are 💰💰2,999.00🍁🤯

Keep my super glue in the fridge and when I need it I put it in my pocket for a few minutes to warm up , then back in the fridge. Been using the same bottle for almost three years now. 😉 !

Mr. Robert, you did something very rare in these days: you experimented, collected data, analyse those data and reach a conclusion, helping a lot of people. Congratulations e keep the good job. Greetings from Brazil!

With the amount of "dust" that came off on your fingers, I wouldn't think they'd make good stones for around your tools. The abrasive dust would get everywhere.

I have one of those hammer impact drivers. I could never get the blasted thing to work right. For sure my technique. I like that hand held driver thing - and the insert slitting saw. Oh yes. And the Impactas. Very nice.

Nice tool hoard! The Icons look nice, but I am very fond of my Bondhuseses.

Sure beats my setup...a couple of jars with all the T-handles stuffed in and always falling over 🤔 ATB......

Isn't the process for cyanoacrylates a hardening process started at a nucleation site rather than a drying process? Once it gets started, it just continues, albeit a bit slow in the absence of more nuceation sites. Hmm, feels like I'll be going down a rabbit hole on wikipedia one of these days...

Moisture diffuses through ~0.1mm of polymer on the time scale of a few hours. In addition, when flexible polymers are stretched they do not stretch uniformly - microscopic channels open up between the polymer chains further increasing the rate of moisture diffusion. So stretching electrical tape will not be very effective as you find. Aluminum foil would help, but putting the glue in the freezer, as suggested in another comment, should be much better solution.

Holes get bigger when a material is heated. Simple conceptual proof. Draw a circle on a plate of material. Does the circle get bigger or smaller? Bigger of course because the whole plate is expanding. Now remove the material inside the circle. The hole expands when heated. Further generalizing this idea, the holes inside a porous material have an effective expansion coefficient equal to that of the surrounding solid material.

That by far the best T handle setup I’ve seen. Will be adapting your excellent idea. Thanks for saving my brain!

Robert , loctite recommended to me to keep our cyno"s in the fridge.

Put the size markings on the top surface instead of the front surface. You could always drill the holes a little larger if they swell closed a bit.

Put super glue in the freezer. I have bottles that last for years after being opened.

Robert, be sure to film making the T-handle stand...

They still sell those aluminum clamp lights at lowes and whatnot without the bulb ... when my wife needed a light box I bought a small pile of them for like 5 bucks each and threw some daylight LED Edison style bulbs in them (great value daylight 95 watt equivalent ) and spread them about, and all together we were drawing like 50 watts from the wall... Still have a couple in the shop here and there.. 7-8 bucks each its great over my 3dprinter / cnc engraver / toy lathe table

Good one Rob . Bondhus T handles here are $ 23.83 ea for 6mm & $ 18.78 for 4mm . I just bought a couple from the industrial hardware shop ! That slitting saw looks like an expensive item to run with all of the inserts ! Cheers 👍

In steels.. You can't get high hardness and still get good toughness. You can only get one or the other or somewhere in the middle/ a compromise of each. That's just how it is; they are a direct trade off. If the hardness was up in the 60's.. it would be brittle and snap off the tips easier. If you make them tough and flexible, then they can bend out of shape easier. It's just like a Katana, where you want the edge or tip to be hard, but the rest of the shank to be flexible. It's not an easy balance to get right. I bet your other Allens were on the harder side, which is why they twisted off the ball ends.. but if they make them too soft, then it will just round over and strip..

You can never trust chinese light ratings.. I never buy one without watching a video on it first. If no one has made a video about it, then I won't buy it. lol.. I've been burned too many times by being the Ginnie pig

The tool at 11:52 is a valve adjusting tool , it is designed to have socket on that square shank with the screw drive tip in the center. The arm with the socket releases the locknut while the driver in the center adjusts the valve clearance . 😉 !

Like the reviews. Slitting saw looks interesting. Look forward to seeing a demo.

Great video, keep'um coming.

I like that silting saw.. Hope to see a demo in a future video 👍👍

Can you give more information on the sitting saw? I’d like to try to find one! You said eBay, did I see in the video Valenite? Thanks for the video!

Those T-handle Torx look real handy to use when changing inserts. I hate those little wrenches you get when you buy insert tooling.

a car wheel has individual nuts, a chuck has one scroll being turned no matter from which pinion. good question though.

This an old video but the reason the cabinet is leaking at every joint and seam is he is not using a vacuum as designed. Essentially the cabinet is a pressure box every time the gun is used. Try removing the black plastic plug in the side or connector he vacuum to the same hole as recommended.

My bride questioned at one point the "Need" for what I have in my shop. I smiled and guided her to the door of her Sewing room and before I could pose the same question, she asked if maybe I could use a snack.......................................and never brought it up again.

You are a brave man letting your wife in the workshop.

Very nice to see the dogs. I used to make Martingale collars for my greyhounds using a heavy duty sewing machine on nylon webbing about 1-1/2 to 2” wide. Cutting the ends with a hot knife was enough to prevent fraying. I would think you might be able to do similarly with narrower material for leads to avoid having to double it back. BTW the hardware for leads (and sight hound collars) is readily available online.

nice drills......untill you have to sharper them ? cheers ben.

I have a taiwanese Eumega mill that is with the same M marked below the head of the unit. Do you know what that might stand for?

Use heat shrink on it

I wonder if you could get some strips of kevlar? That would slow the dogs down chewing leads in half.

Great video man, I had a coon dog years ago it was walker and whippet cross that dog could run down a coon or oppussom and come packing it back to you,lol 😂

Its a copy after a Hitachi jack hammer but the chinese made it even more powerful. Lately even Bosch got to steal the design for their newest, brushless jack hammers. Its extremely cheap but it worth every penny. A friend has one for about 10 years or so and used it to rral barbarian work and borrowed to all his friends. Only had to replace the brushes. Its a professional tool except it lacks the name brand.

👍use a precision square off the table to the quill to get tram close then indicate. Saves a lot of time 🙂

If the fixture needs to be trammed in, then maybe it is simpler to just tram the part. On most builds there is only one base plate but many plates can be trammed in the time it takes to remove / replace and retram the vise. I never remove my vise. In rare situations where I need to machine a long edge of a plate. I clamp a long piece of hollow section in my vise and G clamp the plate to it. This seems the quickest way, I don't have to remove the vise then put it back and re tram it in. I don't have to fish around for clamps and parallels, just put my trusty old piece of RHS in the vise and clamp the plate to it. If I need a backstop I clamp a couple of blocks between the fixed jaw and the RHS. For an endstop I may ream a hole in the RHS and fit a dowel. The RHS is sacrificial but lasts for years. On the odd occasion I may take a light skim off the top of the sacrificial box section but very rarely.

Instead of lising the tram on the mill, you could use a sine plate or angle blocks on the vise.....

I scratched my head about the T slot layout on my Taiwanese mill until I realized it was made for 12mm studs & metric T nuts. If you chk your layout w/ 12mm studs, not 12.7mm, (½ = 12.7), & 16mm for nut width, instead of 15.9mm, (0.625 = 15.9 mm), you might discover it's more symmetric than thought. I can't remember the dimension of metric T-nuts; I've got 2 metric T-bolts which came w/ the mill & a mixed Te-Co/? ½" (eBay) used set. I've been thinking about a fence as well, but I was considering a semi-perm mount on the back flange of the table; something I can placed a rotary table against, to the R of the vise. Still figurin', tho.

Awesome work. This is one of those projects that I find it hard to believe more people haven't done. I made a simpler version, using a piece of 1" wide, 1/4" thick precision ground bar stock. Drilled 3 clearance holes for 3/8-16 fasteners... The outer 2 are for bolting it to the table, the middle for the clamp for the vise. I made 2 clamps, one 1/4" shorter than the other, which rests on top of the fence, and is held down with the 3rd bolt. The fence is trammed parallel with the Y-axis of my mill. I use a "CNC-style" vise, which is flat on all sides. It has clamping slots along the long sides, and I machined additional clamping slots along the short sides, as well. This way, I can orient the vise in whatever direction I need, and know it's square without having to indicate it every time. I also machined clamping "ledges" on the base of my rotary table, so I can set that up in a similar fashion, again without having to indicate it in. The only issue is that the crank handle sticks out past the bottom and side faces, so it can only be oriented with the handle off the table. I plan on building a telescoping extension for the crank handle, so I can position the rotary table however I want, and just place the handle in a convenient spot. This setup, combined with my universal-head mill, allows an incredible amount of flexibility in setups.

cute smile x

Hi, Hope you dont mind my comments!! I'm surprised you've still got all your fingers! Please use a pointer of some sort, fingers make me go cold. By the way, I use turned buttons in the tee slots and clock over the two high points. Easy to make, turn them together and then part off, Best Regards Mike N