How To Speed Control Your Miter Saw For Cutting Steel
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- čas přidán 20. 04. 2020
- I show what does and doesn't work... then upgrade my saw with more horsepower and speed control for cutting steel or wood at the turn of a dial.
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This project is meant to be a creative teaching moment. I don't expect anyone to buy a VFD and induction motor. That would cost more than buying a separate saw. LOL I really just wanted to show what does and doesn't work in a creative way. I hope you walk away with a new understanding of universal motors, speed control, and maybe laughed a bit at this insane upgrade! Which worked out great by the way. Cuts both steel and wood like a champ!
Jeremy, great video. I really liked it. I am curious how the abrasive wheel worked. You said you would tell us in the comment section. But I've scrolled through twice and I'm not seeing it.
Keep up the great work, Jeremy.
- Chaos
@Ed G I've come to the same conclusion ie, bite the bullet. I've noticed my 14"abrasive blade tends to deflect, also. Can't get a square cut no matter how fast or slow I cut.
@@shaywave my experience with abrasive wheels is the larger blades seem to work better and abrasive chop saws are cheap.
I think I paid 100 bucks for my ryobi 12".
One thing that has happened to me twice though and I thought it was a fluke the first time....
Don't cut aluminum and steel with the same blade.
I buy pretty expensive blades so I'm pretty sure it's not that they are cheap, but I dont cut steel much mostly aluminum. If I cut steele after cutting aluminum then go back to aluminum my blades shatter.
I've asked all the old guys I know and they have all said use a different blade.
Could be I just had two go off on me coincidentally, but I have been using the same saw and I'm about out of the 20 blades I bought and it's been over 15 years since the last time that happened.
@@christopherleveck6835 A similar consequences is supposed to happen to grinder wheels if you grind soft metals, but I've never had it happen. I do most steel cutting with cutoff wheels in angle grinders and larger stuff with an abrasive wheel in a circular saw or table saw, which does the straightest cuts. (I just lack money)
Showcasing how such a modification can fail and WHY is also very educational.
This dude is one of the most informative people on CZcams. I would never replicate his experiments but now I have justification for why.
Yup....just found him and subscribed half way through a video.
He's one of the most intelligent people I've found on here
@@wadebrewer7212 kk
ditto
I have never seen someone with as much skill and talent as you. Your humbleness is golden. Great job!!!
I had no intention of watching this entire video but your delivery along with your innovative use of your equipment and knowledge captured me. I “liked” and plan to “follow”. Keep up the good work. I wish you much success.
When you wheeled the new motor to the saw ON A CRANE, I knew I was a witness to greatness in the making. Tim Allen of Home Improvement ("MORE POWER!") couldn't have done it better. Bravo!
Cymerian Designs Jeremy’s videos often make me think of Home Improvement.
I just found this channel, but I'm pretty sure that he's a lot more intelligent and wiser than Tim could ever be.
Thankfully without the ambulance. Great vid.
I tested my saw on bologna. It definitely works on cold cuts. I'll have to pick up some dry salami to see if it can do dry cuts, too.
That’s a lot of modifying to cut metal on a mitre saw when you can just buy a metal cutting blade rated to 3000RPM. I purchased a Diablo STEEL DEMON 10” blade for ferrous metals including stainless steel for AU$160 which is about US$5 😝. No mods needed and it works beautifully.
Random: You can make a fair dinkum hybrid rocket engine out of a pepperoni or salami plumbed for oxygen. Needs casing and a nozzle of course. I'm serious.
@@railgap The "I'm serious" at the end made me actually google this. Thank you for expanding my culinary rocketry knowledge sir.
Now that's Funny~!! 😅😆😅😆
You could try butter for the cold cut and see how that works out.
.
"I couldn't talk about it and not try it ... "
I freekin love this guy's videos! 🙂
.
I love this guy's positive energy. He's just having so much fun. Awesome channel!
You never want to be the smartest person in the room. And that is why I watch these videos. So much fun learning stuff like this. Thank you, as always for the excellent content!
Not sure who said it but the smartest person in the room is the one who listens because he knows he doesn't know it all.
"You never want to be the smartest person in the room. And that is why I watch these videos"
YEP - I watched about 5 minutes of this idiot, and I felt myself becoming more stupid. Luckily I stopped myself watching the whole thing.
@@johncoops6897 "Better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to speak and to remove all doubt."
You could learn from this Johnny boy.
Cant believe that was a 22 minute video. I would have watched an hour without even realizing it. I definitely need a 2hp variable speed mitre saw now...👍👍😁
"20 minutes later" this sob broke out the 2hp and I knew he was a man after my own heart. Subbed forever.
The world needs more Jeremy Fieldings. Your thinking is not common in today's world. Thank you for your videos. I'm going to edit this here for full transparency. The world needs more people that think like Jeremy Fielding.
you had my undivided attention when you made it clear the potential of having anything modify to serve different purposes as was the case in this video. Such a genius!!!! PLEASE pass it on.
Jeremy, thanks for your efforts. I appreciate coming here and learning stuff I wasn't even smart enough to know I didn't know.
I also appreciate the humor when you brought over the 2hp motor.
Damn, you're smart. You have both sides of your brain working... Creativity and engineering.... Very rare....
Ah, the "left brain, right brain" dichotomy, yet another psych myth that won't die
@@custos3249 a totally useless comment
Have you only met BAD engineers, then?
@@custos3249 just a figure of speech at this point. No need to worry about it, there's people out there that believe 5g phone service caused corona virus. You've got a new myth to battle. Go get em tiger.
Custos . Well arent you the smarty pants. Why dont you enlighten all of us with your psycho-babble
I just came across this video and am hooked for life. Jeremy is an absolute genius and I love his open mindedness, skills, craftsmanship and easy to understand explanation and videos. Thank you Jeremy, so nice to meet you!
In hindsight, now that you know the speed only had to be cut in half, do you think it actually could have been geared down with the pulleys, thus creating more torque with the original motor?
"The part will get pretty hot and the cut will be pretty rough".
I hate the smell of the cloud of dust and hord of sparks that bounce around.
I really like the direction you're videos have taken.
Thank you and keep up the good work!!!
You're gifted in engineering and mechanical creativity. It amazes me to see your thought process and reasoning. I am very impressed with your work. keep the videos coming . Thank you.
Keep the great motor tutorials coming! Your content is easily the best on the subject here on CZcams. I've worked around 3 phase induction motors as a maintenance mechanic for 20+ years, and every time I watch one of your videos, I learn something new about electric motors in general.
Incase anyone is wondering: Typically in the machining world, when you're cutting steel with carbide, you run around 400sfm (Surface feet per minute) of course this varies depending on the type of steel, inserts, coolant, etc... but it's a starting point.
When cutting with HSS (high speed steel) you're aiming for around 80sfm
When calculating speed, the easiest formula is RPM = 4 x cuttingSpeed/Diameter the diameter being based on the size of whichever object is spinning (in this case the saw blade)
There is a longer formula incorporating pie, but using this simplified version it will typically be close enough.
So for example, if you have a 12" carbide tooth saw blade:
RPM = 4 x 400/12
RPM = 1600/12
RPM = 133
The blades and carbide grade/geometry for these types of evolution/metal devil saws is specifically designed to be run at ~1500 rpm. It doesn't really translate from insert tooling.
@@xenonram I just purchased a carbide Diablo metal cutting blade and it states on the blade that it's rated for more than 3,000 RPM, however it's a 7 1/2 inch blade.
Also when milling steel it's considering solid steel. For this test it has what guessing is less than 3/16" thick wall, so again doesn't equate.
Go to 16:40. He explains that he changes the motor to 1,500 rpms. I thought I was going crazy and losing my mind! I thought 50 to 88 rpms seemed unusually low for mild steel on a modern carbide cutoff saw. He explains that the modern blade configurations are designed to run at 1,500 rpms. That sounds more realistic, and definitely a good speed. You can cut metal at 4,000 rpms if you want, but you do risk overheating the carbide if you cut metal that isn't very conductive like stainless steel. Stainless steel doesn't' dissipate heat, so you have to go slow, or it overheats the blade.
Those numbers are crazy low compared to what a typical 7.5" circular saw uses - 2800-5800 RPM is the standard.
Your maths suggests (I verified it with other sources and it checks out) the RPM on a 7.5" blade should be around 200 RPM which is completely unachievable on a typical circular saw - they just can't get that low in terms of RPM. Usually there's no variable speed control at all.
I wonder if it's still possible to cut stainless steel without ruining it with heat, by using a cutting carbide blade and just going EXTREMELY slowly through the cut with added pauses for cool down of the material being cut.
Jeremey, you are one in a billion. Your talent far exceeds anyone i know. So much information you share is much appreciated by most of us here.
I have no idea how I found this channel, but I have a feeling I'm gonna learn a lot.
I agree with you Craig I stumbled across Jeremy because I've been interested in electric vehicles as of late, and DYI projects. But I feel Jeremy and in fact his whole family are wonderful to watch and an asset to our country in my opinion. I think I'm late to this party. When Jeremy isn't working for Elon he should be broadcast in every high school and in fact, middle school in our nation for a daily dose of brain stimulation that has the potential to turn on many light bulbs in young people, thank you Jeremy
Same here Craig. Just popped up on my screen.😂👍👊😎🙏
be smart and schedule around early mornings lol best not to start watching if you cant afford to get sucked in for 7 hours
@@dougn4942 YT uses an algorithm that notes what you've watched and then offers to show you the most commercially successful vids with lots of comments in categories the algorithm determines. It looks at gender, the amount of time you'll sit for a vid, possibly words you've used in comments, country you're from - lots of stuff most people don't consider.
You always amaze me with the scope of your projects and the depth of your inquiry into possibility and probability.
You did a great job of investigating this subject. The whole potential of this project has been on my mind for 10 years. Thank you for this "most excellent " video.
65 and happy to have stumbled across your channel. Well presented and informative. Thank you.
Awesome!! Your skills, tools, and production quality are going exponentially higher!! Very FURZE-like of you, Jeremy !!
Sir, you are a most amazing teacher. This stuff is way over my head but you make it so interesting and your manner is so engaging that I watched all the way through!
I love watching Jeremy, teaching us and having fun.
One of the most interesting and informative videos I have seen on mitre saws. You don't preach but explain things in understandable English. As you said 3 months ago; cheaper and easier to buy 2 different saws for metal and wood, but what the hell you had fun. Always the self satisfaction of achieving your aim no matter the time and effort.
My experience shows that the dust from the abrasive wheel gets sucked into the motor via the cooling fan and destroys the motor. Also, the metal dust gets sucked in and shorts out the windings. As long as you avoid those pitfalls, the abrasive wheels work. Also, be aware that the abrasive wheel throws HOT sparks that will start fires and melt plastic guards. My metal cutting saws are all shielded and protected. Great video!
I agree
Painting before you try it....that's called faith. Great video.
No, skills..
Just wanted to drop in and say how much I appreciate your videos and the information you share. I too am a tinkerer and wood worker so this was right up my alley. I have since watched a great deal of your videos involving the types, uses and operation of various motors. These have been invaluable to me. I’ve always wanted to move beyond stepper motors for some of my projects but never really fully understood the design and operational differences. Can’t wait to see what’s to come! Thank you again!!
I am very impressed with his teaching abilities. Very easy to follow. He makes it very easy to follow along to troubleshooting a problems. Keeping it up. I have allot of your videos to watch.
2 minutes in I subbed, I already like what you’re about. Subbed to see more videos man! Keep on keepin on!
Jeremy, you are truly a born genius. In my 25 yrs of teaching electronics, I have never had a student that is intelligent as you are. I praise Jesus for giving you gifts (and) people like you;; who share knowledge with others.
And especially when you smile from here to eternity and simply garner yet another subscriber. "EVAH" time!
May Jesus continue to bless you and your family always kind Sir.
I’ve watched several videos of doing this, this is by far the best one I’ve seen. Nice job and thanks for taking the time time to share it.
Great video. Your knowledge humbled me! Really enjoy your descriptions. Thanks for your time.
After you found out that modern cold cutoff saws run at roughly 1/2 the RPM of the wood saw, a simple 2:1 pulley differential is very feasible. The stock motor keeps putting out full power and you double your torque at the blade. That's a win there. But, I know your channel is geared toward motor tinkering, so keep up the good work.
Exactly what I was thinking when he mentioned that higher RPM.
It's already at 2½:1. So he'd need a 5:1, which would probably be too big for that tiny area the pulley runs in. Yours have to grind the frame apart.
@@xenonram I meant the motor pulley at 1/2 the diameter of the gearbox pulley. I am assuming that the original was 1:1. But the motor definitely needs to be smaller for efficiency and torque.
20-200rpm is "roughly half" of 3600rpm?
Dildude.
By using a pulley with half the diameter, there will be half the number of teeth engaged with the belt. This may rip the teeth off the belt.
Hey Jeremy, love your channel. You’ve given me tons of great ideas, and knowledge.
I can't wait to get my shop built so I can start making all these things. I really enjoy watching your videos. Thank you for your work!
Hello Jeremy,
I do appreciate your making this video. It answers many questions I had concerning this very subject. It sure does save me a lot of time and worry. Thanks again!
I like what you are trying to accomplish. I've always tried to some how, some way, make stuff work in a safe n responsible way. But you might need two saws, one for wood, one for metal. Remember, the right tool for the job. Can't give you enough thumbs up for using your knowledge to make a dual purpose saw. Maybe they will make a saw that does both. But A+ for trying. Stay safe thru these difficult times.
The 20 mins later part got me. Subscribed. Well done, sir.
I love this guy. Super smart. Amazing content.
On point. Clear, knowledgeable, smooth video. Subscribed.
Just FYI, they do make 10" and 12" carbide-toothed blades for cutting ferrous or non-ferrous metals with a miter saw at their natural speeds. That's what I use most for cutting steel. 10" sliding compound miter saw from Harbor Freight for $100 and a 10" carbide toothed blade from Concord on Amazon for about $25 delivered overnight
They do have a Concord "rescue blade" in 12-inch size, but I cannot find 10 inch. Can you provide a link, please? Thanks.
the blades do not last as long as a dry cut or cold cut saw. and if you cut steel often the cost of the blades is more than the cost of the machine.
A 3600 rpm metal blade makes a huge hot mess. It’s roughly 90 teeth and all 90 are throwing hot glowing chips.
Leland Holton I had a project scoring a grid in 10" diameter cast iron disks on a Delta table saw with a cheap carbide blade. It was exciting! The cuts were rough, but worked for my use.
Fabrimaker -Exactolly. This video is for entertainment not reality
“Commander, we need more power!...” : ) Great project as always Jeremy. Thanks.
Awesome video, I've been toying with the idea of doing this exact thing with one of my saws, thank you for taking the time to post this and explaining what you did and the test you made, it was very informative
Impressed with your channel - well done. Love your storytelling, and your level of knowledge and matter-of-fact approach to things - keep it up!
When you shoehorned on the bigger motor, I heard Tim , the Toolman, Taylor, talking about adding more POWER.
BINFORD 000 😂😂😂
RHHH, RHHH
The difference between Jeremy and Tim, Jeremy researches and it comes together, Tim has the shot gun approach and it blows apart 🤣🛫
@@TheFalconJetDriver Everyone here knows everything about "Tim The Tool Man Taylor" why kill the buzz, should've just continue with another humorous comment. Party pooper...
I love the idea - and dang, you put in some serious work trying several angles. Great job! Oh, and at least one other person has mentioned this already, but the other two contacts of the switch are for the electric brake function (i guess a safety feature on most miter saws). I think when the switch is released, the reverse-wound field windings provide electrical resistance to the forward spinning, oppositely wound rotor, which slows the blade to a halt very quickly. It might complicate the VFD setup though. :)
You always Amaze me Thanks for putting out these videos. You are the Motor King!
Only just found this channel. Interesting, with wonderful delivery, simple well explained and articulate. Great work!
I think the normally closed switch contact is for stopping the factory motor when letting go of the switch.
That is correct. This method of "braking" was patented in 1970 by Thomas A O Gross and assigned to Cooper Industries LLC. I learned this about 25 years ago when troubleshooting the failed brake on my Makita chop saw. I am now on the the third switch but the saw still works!
MotownVideo the benefit of buying decent tools in the first place. There are parts available!
@@MotownVideo That technology existed in the 1960s and maybe before. An AC motor will stop quickly if you apply a DC current to the windings after the AC power is removed. We used that technology in the flight simulator elevator aileron and rudder trim systems before the digital age.
Awesome explanation and concept! That said, I slapped a cutoff wheel on an old chop saw and it works fine. Yes, it's hot and rough but a couple seconds with a file or grinder is all you need. Keep up the great videos!
Make sure your cutoff wheel is rated for your saw's RPM (most are, but they can do some crazy damage if they fail).
Not a good idea if the saw has a plastic dust collection path. Have the t-shirt.
HF sells the cutoff wheel variety for not much esp if one uses the discounts or sales.
@@danharold3087 I use an old chop saw that's not connected to my dust system. It's on a wheeled cart stored under my workbench when not in use.
Fabbed a sheet metal deflector directly behind the wheel to take the Sparks. No issues
@@dcurry7287 thanks, will check that next time in the shop
First vid for me was the table saw build.
Now I am binge-watching all your vids. Mad love and respect. Hooked!
As usual, you deliver an educational and informative video with just a hint of entertainment. Thank you.
When you added that 2hp motor. That was hilarious.
I wanna see a Dewalt with a small block....;-}
When I started operating a chop saw I was taught to get in a habit each and every time to train your mind, to not stick your fingers in the colored zone under the blade of the saw. Since I've learned this I've had two completely separate chop saws have their hinges break on me during operation causing the blade to come crashing toward the deck where fingers would have been. I thank the man who taught me this. I still have my fingers/hands because of him. Great video, your very wise man.
What a terrific video--thank you for taking the time to publish this
You make excellent posts Jeremy. I never miss one.
Hey. I just wanted ro throw into the room that here in Germany, its a regulation that NEW (Not the old ones everyone has) Carpentry machines used in carpentrys, should completely stop within 3 seconds of turning it off. Just for a baseline of what you may wanna tweak that VFD slowdown time to
I don't know if you do videos, but I would watch one about home electric supply in Germany. At least if what I heard is true and I remember correctly. Do you really have 3 (maybe more) phases and 440V? If so, Crayola might have to add a new color to match my green with envy hue. Just to really rub it in, I'd like to see some appliances and tools run, and a tour of the breaker box and outlets.
I own a 14” slugger, so I have some experience with cutting metal on a chop saw. You probably didn’t dull the blade that much. It’s most likely that When dealing with a TCT dry cut saw the way the material is mounted for the cut matters a LOT. Even on my ridiculously expensive Slugger the saw will not seem as smooth when dealing with angle iron or square tube, and making a cut with a flat side facing down, perpendicular with the fence. This fact is the exact reason MK Morse a very big company in the world of cutting steel with blades make adapter vise jaws that give you a V groove to allow you to not have the blade going through flats. I really think if you had the tube twisted 45 degrees you may have cut through that tubing. Just my 2 cents
Totally agree with what you're saying. When cutting steel, the approach angle of the cutting edge is of critical importance. Ask any machinist - end mills cutting steel or lathe bits cutting steel is no different than saw blades doing the same thing - but the machinists are pretty careful about the various angles - angle of approach, relief angle, chip breaker, all these little angles involved in the actual cutting geometry. I've used a number of ferrous steel cutting blades, and especially when the material is harder, it is super important to pay attention to the approach angle of the cutting edge. For example, a plunge cut into a thick sheet - is asking for trouble. But cutting it through from the edge is quite a bit more easy on the blade. This is one reason that dry cut or cold cut saws are designed for low speed - the geometry of the cold cut saw is constantly changing because it pivots down, and it goes through material withall kinds of changes in the approach angle. So you stay slow, apply coolant, and keep that blade from heating
Absolutely brilliant! Thought of every question I would have.
Love the videos keep up the good work!
Great Vid, Jeremy! -- Bravo Sir! Keep it up good information is always welcome especially when it's presented as well as you do!
Normally closed switch might be for braking to slow the blade down quickly after you let go. I'm not an electrical engineer, but I know that most miter saws can shut down pretty quickly and I doubt that it's all due to friction in the drive.
I always thought they slow down using a centrifugal switch. Its not when you let go, it doesn't brake until it slows down some. Maybe also in series with the trigger NC
Alex Teela soft start also
It is easy to test if you have a saw and an extension cord with a switch. Compare turning the saw off with the extension cord, vs turning the saw off by releasing the trigger.
[Please don't cut yourself while performing this experiment.]
It's called electromagnetic brake(I think) .like in the battery drill.you let go the trigger and it stops
@@SergeiArkadjevich - Yup, it shorts out the brushes and turns the motor into a generator with a dead short. Some brands (Makita comes to mind) actually have a second field coil that's only used for this, and that tends to be what burns out and takes the primary coil with it.
I'd love to see the same testing you did on shop-vacs for actual HP for garage door opener motors. 1/3, 1/2 and 3/4 HP motors: preferably Chamberlain motors.
really appreciate your determination to eliminate confounding variables and commitment to repeating old tests when new information surfaces
Dude - this video is amazing ... Thank you for the information and DO NOT STOP
Very nice, you even used bootlace ferrules on the VFD.
Tim Allen would not only salute you, he would have created a whole episode based on you. MORE POWER!
SPINOFF!!!
I love your videos, man! Thank you so much for sharing these projects.
Your presentation covered all the bases. You are definitely up on your technology and your engineering. Now we know why you can't buy a combination saw that will do both jobs and still be affordable. Great job.
The jump cut to the bigger motor, classic! 😂
Jeremy, have you done the math regarding suggested surface speed for tungsten carbide on mild steel with that diameter blade? I would imagine it is rather slow. The sauce commercially available saws that run ~1300 RPM are likely going way too fast for the material.
Yeah. It seems the slower ones ( with a slower feed rate as well have it right. I haven’t done the calculation. I just opted to go with the model that was easiest to match with the smallest possible modification. There is a reason the 20-80 rpm saws cost many times more.
@@JeremyFieldingSr why do they cost a lot more?
The slow ones apply a lot more force at the cutting edge, so there's a lot of torque required. Far more than you could put through that belt, let alone get out of the motor. Which means the saw costs more, the blades cost more, but they also work better and the blades last longer
It seems to me the easy way to make this mod is to use a smaller blade on a saw designed with the right stock RPM, for example a 7-1/4 metal saw is made to run at 3800rpm, same speed as a normal 12" mitre saw.
And it really made me giggle :-) New sub.
Jeremy! You're alive. I thought that maybe the COVID got you. Glad to see you back!
Glad to be here!... but the last one was only two weeks ago? If you would like to stay up to date I recommend you turn on notifications by clicking the bell icon. That way you are not waiting for CZcams to recommend my new videos... instead you know as soon as I post.
Or become a supporter on patreon!
I was at Walmart yesterday and I think the PLANned-emic got me.
Awesome video! You are a true inventor/experimenter. Loved watching the video.
wow! very very impressive: electricity knowledge, use of tools, teaching ability, creativity, persistence, humility. Much of it was over my head but that's not your fault. Thanks.
"20 minutes later..." 😆 Got me laughing at that
You caught me off guard bringing that 2hp motor over lmao.
Real mood though. CAN'T DO IT TOO HEAVY...20 mins later....
Guess they need to sketch up and cnc another hinge and support...
Good to see a little of the dark side. More Mad Science please.
If you paid attention - there are even bigger motors in background!
Huh, a 15A 120V @ 1800 W motor is already a 2.4HPmotor...
Love watching your educational and creative experiment videos, thanks so much for sharing!
I watched this with a great deal of interest. Thank you for the information. In my case, I ended up purchasing a cheap Porter Cable saw, had a machinist friend make a duplicate of the plastic blade guide (think that's what you call it) in aluminum and put metal cutoff blades on it. It's quick, cuts are straight and it's a dedicated tool for that purpose.
All that and you didn’t cuss once! How the hell did I ever find this channel.?
Thanks for all the information, but since I am both handicapped and getting lazy, I think it would be smarter if I just ordered
a chop saw for the little working in steel I attempt.
You are pretty darned sharp and should continue sharing your knowledge for people who like tinkering,
Well done. I've gotta find a neighbor who will give me used vfd's!
Thinking the same thing. Guess I gotta move house now...
I'm so glad I found this channel. Thank you Sir, great explanations and great information. Subscribed!😃
Prime -time video. Good lighting, audio, narrative and, editing that moves forward quickly. And what was that, an EDM in you workshop? Whoa!
Dude, you should have taught electrical engineering in my college!
thats easy to do
If I cut a pork loin with my meat cutter, does it become a "chop saw?"
Hahaha
I Love It!
That is next level humor right there!
If you used it to slice up a box of sausages, would it be a wurst case scenario?
Of course. But if Made in China it is 'Chop Chop Saw"
@@johnguilonard8582 american midle aged men disgust my PP
Nice job on your fabrication work! Thanks for sharing your well thought out and informative video!
It doesn’t matter if it took a lot of modification to get to the end result. It’s creativity and expanding knowledge. Make it a point to Learn something everyday.. nice video...
I think the two wires that are normally closed are for the brake.
Same thought I had...
Cant believe I've just now found this guy. Great dude! Great Channel!
Excellent work. Very good job!
I wrote my initial comments near the 1/4 mark, because I live in the woods and have the slowest internet. The more I watch, the more impressive this is. I can’t compliment you enough. Just awesome!
I wouldn’t cut steel with this, but I’d love my miter saw to be able to cut wood the way your modified saw cut.
WOW, I feel like my IQ has gone up just watching you work! I can't imagine being this intelligent and being able to create the things you make. Plus, you make all of this look too easy!! I'll be buying my metal saw. LOL 😂 Nice work, I always enjoy your videos.
Keep in mind the weight of a heavier motor will probably add a kerf to your cut
It won't. Spring on this thing is strong enough to pull the whole thing up, so weight of it does not matter at all, only force you add with hands which is way, way larger. And motor is mounted very close to pivot point, so it has much less impact that you would think (leaver lenght).
@@Stasiek_Zabojca it may still do so on a cheaper saw. Only one way to find out.
I think you're confused on the meaning of the term kerf. You can't "add a kerf." There is always kerf on a cut, the thickness of the blade. Are you saying the kerf will get wider? Are you saying the kerf/cut will become angled? The kerf is not going to change. Getting the motor heave enough to influence the kerf/cut will cause the bearings to break before it affects the cut.
Another great video Jeremy, a lot of knowledge and surprises, you're a natural in front of the camera.
Just wanted to thank you for sharing with us. Your videos are super informative and inspiring ✌️
Black & Decker World Wide Corporate Office (room of engineers): "This guy is making us look bad"
Jeremy (from his garage): "Hold my beer"
These carbide metal chopsaws use a lot more torque than the wood cutting saw will. So once you start using it for real, you will probably destroy the final drive belt, and possibly the bearings. These carbide metal chopsaws aren't that expensive anymore, so the cheapest option is probably to just buy one of those. But that doesn't make for much of a video. But maybe you should just get an arbor and bearings and built your own belt drive to your big motors.
This is what I was alluding to when I said "I don't know how long this will last"... Every component seems to be designed to just barely do the job on these saws, so I expect to find the next weakest point will fail sooner or later. A custom drive train is always an option just for the fun of it. LOL
I was about to bring up the issues with exactly engineered components and the risks with exceeding their values. Gotta comment for the channels doing real work.
Wouldn't a better video then be to build a saw completely from the ground up? Frame and all.
Because if the belt and other components are bound to fail.... Then all you're left with is a 'chinesium' frame from the wood saw lol
while this is true the big advantage to doing it this way is that its a miter saw... those metal saws dont miter... can angle the stock you are cutting but that isn't near as good as angling the saw... then you get into cold saws... they miter but are also 3000 bucks... personally i think this is a good idea.. ive already taken my milwaukee cordless miter saw and put a 7 1/4 steel demon on it and cut a lot of steel.. used the same blade on a table saw and it was awesome too.. reason for the small blade on the larger saw is that it was rated for the higher rpm of the standard wood cutting saw...
@@dpd16790 there are plenty of dry saws that miter.
Awesome video in the literal sense. and thank you for lowering the metal cutting audio volume. My ears appreciate it so much.
I am constantly looking to learn, I am instantly hooked, thank you for sharing. Very informative thank you
That's all good but it's better with water and cutting fluid like a real saw for that purpose. The brobo water cold saw blade is what you need but without the water and cutting fluid continuously flowing over the cut the blade will go blunt after a short time.
Nope. We're way past that now. The "real saws" are exactly like he made. The Morse Metal Devil and Evolution saws (every major manufacturer makes one now) have almost completely replaced the slow moving wet saws. The wet saws are about 10x as much money (around $5), and are good for production environments, environments where noise is an issue, and heavy use cases, but they cut slower.
@@xenonram yep essentially materials science and carbide manufacturing has changed a ton in the past few years and has brought carbide tipped metal cutting saws into reach of everyone. If someone wanted examples of how far this tech can go, Diablo (owned by Freud) has created circular saw blades for standard off the shelf construction site saws that allows them to cut through both steel and wood simultaneously. The blades actually spin at over 5,000RPM (if I remember correctly) and the video shows slicing through a large wooden slab with a dozen or more steel bolts driven in along the length of the wood. Yes it's an artificial test, but the tech is real and it's changing demolition work for contractors, and metal cutting and fabrication tools.
These cold cut saws do work, can produce clean, burr free cuts, and make metal far more manageable for any shop. Northern Tool even sells a cold cut saw with blade for less than $300. I've used it, and it's decent, but it does seem to bend and flex more than I would prefer during heavy cuts, so I'd personally recommend upgrading to one of the Evolution saws or other similar saws if you can afford it. Hope this helps!
There is an old-timer machinist saying. When the chips are brown, SLOW it down. When the chips are blue, you're all through...!
Despite the feel of the blade and material, the chips tell a valuable story.. Coolant would cool everything down and blade will last much longer...
@@victur1 that's when you go get one of those cheep mist coolers and slap it on a cheap saw... these days it sucks but cutting corners on price is a necessity for some of us.
@@victur1 thats a cool little rhyme. I'm a welder, but I use a lot of cutting and drilling tools for fabricating. I gotta sharpen a lot of tools constantly. Thanks.