Hi Steve, good afternoon! I started printing the small clock with the 10 day gear, as you said, now what size upper part of the weight shell should I use? thanks.
Your filament and printer tolerances might be different than mine, so you have to test to see how much your clock needs. The manual will tell you how much my clock needs. You can use that as a starting point, scaled proportionately to account for your runtime.
this would be about 60 bucks worth of BB's to fill where im at so im just going to try filling it with a 3$ bag of sand. according to some quick calculations I did the biggest weight you have should weigh about 9lbs filled with sand.
Measurements on sand local to me showed a specific gravity of less than 2. Solid steel has a density of around 8. Even allowing for air pockets around the BBs, sand only has 1/3 the density. I really wanted for sand to be an option, but the weight shell might need to have many extensions added to be useful. Any type of scrap steel is a better option. Or low denomination coins if you have them. Around US$10 in pennies would probably be enough.
Hello Steve, I managed to get the watch to work by increasing the weight, but I noticed that it is advancing the real time by a few minutes, what should I do to make it synchronized with the real time and not advance the minutes?
@@stevesclocks Do you mean to print another arm of the pendulum or just unscrew the nut and lower the pendulum? And if it persists, what else can I do?
Good point. Anything with a density near steel or copper can be used. Zinc in modern US pennies is around 7. Steel is 8. Copper is 9. Lead is 11, but barely worth the toxic risk. Sand only has a density around 2-3, so the weight shell would need to be huge to be functional. It would take 180 zinc pennies per pound, so just over $14 for 8lb of weight. This is probably cheaper than most other options.
Wow! Great project and impressive engineering. I don't have a 3d printer nor do I want one but can these clocks be made from Baltic birch plywood on a scroll saw?
All my designs are completely optimized for 3d printing. A scroll saw design would need to be optimized differently for wood. I keep saying I want to make a wooden clock, but there always seems to be "one more" 3d printed clock I am working on. It may happen someday, but I don't know when.
Good evening Steve, I finished the watch, I made it last 10 days, I did the pendulum test which lasted 5 minutes until it degraded, I did the test with 3.9kg and it only worked for 3 hours and stopped completely, I increased the weight to 4.6kg and it lasted the same time or less, I'm using hook line, it's harder. What's wrong, sorry for the questions, I'm translating everything on Google so I can finish the watch. What should I do to make it work normally???😭
It could be too much friction. 5 minutes on the bearing test is fairly short. Make sure the seals are removed from the bearings and the factory grease has been removed. Then test for friction in the gears. Everything should spin freely. The clock could be out of beat. Make sure the pendulum ticks at an equal angle from left to right. If these things don't work, try the 7 or 8 day runtime.
Hello Steve, I bought this project on myminifactory, I was separating the files for printing, I've already started printing some pieces, and I noticed that there are several types of pendulum, I printed the pendulum-shaft, I would like to know what the other pendulums are for, I realized that there are several sizes, and which weigth shell top should I print???
Everything should be described in the manual. The pendulum shafts with "_long" or "_short" names are only used if you need additional adjustment for the time. Start with the normal ones. The weight shell depends on the runtime option and the overall friction in your gear train. Build the clock a determine how much weight your clock needs to run reliably, then print the appropriate size according to the table in the manual.
@Steve Peterson I'm about to start assembly of the clock, but unsure on the weighting to use. The "Weight Shell" section of the printed guide says 8 lb/3.6 Kg, your video here has 10.8 lb/4.9 Kg. Another section of the printed guide has projected weights of: - 7.8 day = 3-4 lb/1.4-1.8 Kg - 10.1 day = 3.9-5.2 lb/1.8-2.4 Kg - 15.3 day = 5.9-7.8 lb/2.7-3.53 Kg I'm guessing therefor the that the 8 lb and 10.8 lb options are for the 32 day configuration? If the weight is greater than it needs to be, for instance the full 10 lb with the 10.1 day gear combination does that have any issues? I was aiming for the 10.1 initially and thinking of using hand weights as they are considerably cheaper than BBs (here in the UK at least).
The weights listed are just guidelines since each clock may be different. There is not much harm in adding extra weight. It will increase the pendulum amplitude and make the clock more stable.
@@stevesclocks Thanks for getting back to me. Having printed the base of the weight pot I can see that it's not going to be wide enough to get hand weights in, so will need to re-think this. I'm finding a lot of the 3mm holes for the shafts are mighty tight, so will probably need to open these out slightly with a drill. I'm thinking a light sanding might be called for on clutch components too to clean up the surfaces. I'm guessing my printer must be a bit off as I'm finding a lot of the components very tight - obviously it can't be your files as many others have successfully built the clock
@@tomsimmons4482 You can use anything for the weights. A rock with a pulley on top would work. Most printed holes end up smaller than the initial size. The design starts with slightly oversized holes with the expectation that they will still end up undersized. It is easier to drill a small hole to the proper size than dealing with a hole that is too big. No need to blame your printer. :)
@@stevesclocks you know, in an odd way it is very tempting to get a rock and attach the pulley now that you've said that - would certainly make for a conversation piece!
Here is one at a good price in the US www.amazon.com/Hobbypark-Landing-Stopper-Airplane-Replacement/dp/B01EA912P8 There is also a printed part that can be used. It sometimes needs to be scaled down slightly so it becomes a press fit. Or it can be glued into position. The shaft collars are easier since they are removable, but they are not always easy to find.
@@stevesclocks Thank you for the fast reply! For some reason I wasn't coming up with that on Amazon. I just looked it up and ordered them, so they will be here in two days. I have the clock running and almost completely reliable. I am going to disassemble it tomorrow to make some adjustments and add a little teflon powder to the bearings. What I did for the original build was to add a 2.4 mm hole through the printed collar and used two 2.5 mm set screws (180 degrees apart) to hold it in place. I think the shaft collars should be a little easier and possibly more reliable in the long run.
Hi Steve, first, let me say, I love this project, and it'll be my first when I get my 3d printer. My question is... if one wanted to mount this on a 2x4 or 4x4 or 2x6 for a free standing clock "a la grandfather clock," is there a way to mount this clock and extend the hour and minutes hand? Thanks Ralph
Thanks. A clock like www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-large-pendulum-wall-clock-137009 might be easier to mount free standing or in a case like a grandfather clock. Most of my clocks should be able to support longer hands. The extra weight should be minor since the minute hand would only need to be lifted once per hour. Only the second hand in some of my other clocks would need to be balanced. One consideration is the dial often supports the arbors for the gears behind it. You have to plan around it if you enlarge the dial. That is why I recommended the large clock that already has a bigger dial.
@Steve Peterson thank you. When I say extend the hour and minute hand, I mean protrude out to allow for the movement to sit behind it in the "back" of the 2x6, yet not hidden as that is the beauty of the works, and the hands on the front or face of the 2x6.
@@ralphguerrero518 All of my clocks use a metal shaft for the fastest hand and a printed shaft for the rest. In this case, the minute hand uses a metal shaft that can easily be extended to any length. The hour hand shaft would need to be extended. Most slicers have features that would allow you to split out the center portion, scale it, and merge it back into a single piece. Some of my other clocks with a second hand would need these edits on two of the gears. The second hand has a metal shaft. Both the hour hand and the minute hand would need to be extended. My wall mounted clocks are designed to hang from the back. They could possibly hang from the front. You would have to decide if it would be strong enough without sagging.
Hello Steve Congratulations on this achievement. I just bought the project from the MyMiniFactory site. I was wondering: the diameter of the '6x3 / 4 "flat head wood screw' is 6mm? This value seems a bit high ... Thank you in advance for your reply. Regards, Robert
Hi Robert, The outer thread diameter is 3.5mm with around 0.7 threads per mm. The length is 19mm and the head diameter is around 6.5mm. All wood screws in this country are sold using numbered sizes, but the diameter is not directly proportional to the number. A #12 screw is only 56% larger than a #6 screw. I ordered some metric wood screws from AliExpress to check if M3*20 or M3.5*20 are a good fit. Steve
Hi Robert, My international order just came in and I tested a cube with screws going in all 6 sides. M3.5*20 are a great fit. They are maybe 10% tighter than the local #6x3/4" screws, but still easy enough to go in all the way. This is the only screw needed for the Easy Build clock.
@@stevesclocks Hello Steve Thanks a lot for your answers. They correspond to what I expected, but I would rather have the official answer from "the expert", rather than make mistakes. My project is progressing well. I hope to be able to start assembling at the end of the week. Best regards
@Steve Peterson My printer has struck again! When assembling the palette and pendulum I'm finding the nut very tight , which is not such a big issue. However, getting the pendulum onto the palette is different matter, it starts is about all I can say. Similarly putting the parts of the pendulum together, it goes within 1/16" of closing, but that's it. Lining 2 parts up side-by-side the step profile looks correct so I can only assume it's the hole and peg. As I said before I don't doubt your designs, it has to be my printer. I saw a video about a setting in the slicer for "fudging" tolerances on components like nuts, but I'll be blowed if I can find it not - is there anything you're aware of?
good evening Steve I am enjoying building your clock. I did notice frame-back-left-hook and frame-back-left are a little different. could you explane the difference. while following along with you I noticed you were installing the freme-back-left-hook item I printed the other unit
Both do the primary job of supporting the winding arbor. Frame_back_left_hook adds a small tab for storing the winding key. I added it to the release after creating the manual.
Hi. I want to build this. I have been to your site on where to purchase it. I have a question though. The FACE of the clock the outer white circle with the Hourly numbers on it... was that printed as all one piece? With a filament color change on a preset layer in Prusa? I ask because I have an Artillery Sidewinder X1. The filament color change is not very easy or precise. Almost impossible? It seems to plague the Sidewinder users globally. It may be a deal breaker on building any of the designs I see on your site. Might I say, All fantastic designs!! :)
I am guessing that color changes on your printer require watching the printer and manually intervening to swap colors. Each new color is several layers thick and there is a bit of tolerance regarding when you make the color swap. The dial on the smaller clock has a 6.5 hour print time. The first color change at 5 hours is somewhat optional. I like to add a lighter color for better contrast, but it would be fine to skip this change or even delay it for up to an hour if you miss the target time. The second color change for the numbers is more important for good visibility. It takes 18 minutes and the color change should probably happen during the first 9 minutes so at least 2 layers are printed in the final color. If you miss, then it wouldn't be too difficult to print just the last few layers of the dial plus numbers and glue them onto the solid color dial. That should be about an hour long print with a 9 minute window near the end to make the color change. btw: MyMiniFactory is having their summer sale right now. All my clock designs are 30% off until the end of August.
@@stevesclocks Thank you for your prompt reply! Two questions.. How do I get the 30% off? And as this is my very first clock build/print. Is there any difference between the regular size and the large clock as far as difficulty?
@@charlesparell5597 The designs are mostly identical except for the size differences. The larger clock has a heavier escapement, so it needs more energy to keep it going. The runtimes are a bit shorter, but still quite reasonable. The discount is enabled by entering "SummerSale2022" during checkout.
The flat is designed to fit a "D" shaped hole on the minute hand. This allows the shaft to rotate with the minute hand when setting the time. It doesn't need much accuracy. Just grind it until the minute hand can be pressed on. I grind the flat using a bench grinder. It only takes a few quick passes. A metal cutting disk on a Dremel tool should also work nicely. A belt sander would also be an option. The tip might need to be annealed to use a hand file, since music wire is typically hardened. Using brass for the shaft would be an alternative that would be easy to work using hand files.
@@stevesclocks Thanks for the reply. I will probably go with brass as I live close to the ocean and have found some steel shafts corrode over time, and when I can I like to use hand tools over power tools.
My printer has a bed that can print 223x223 cm's. Would like to purchase/print pendulum clock that fits my printer. Please refer me to model that will work.
All of my clocks will fit on a Prusa MK3S (250x210) or Ender3 (220x220), so they should fit on your printer. A few of the smaller clocks also fit on a Prusa Mini (180x180).
@@achillesmjb That is the overall size of the assembled clock, assembled from many smaller pieces. The descriptions on MyMiniFactory also list the minimum printer size for each design. I have a Prusa MK3S so I know that every component can be printed on a 250x210 printer. The 220x220 Ender 3 is a popular printer and I make sure that everything will fit it as well. Some parts need to be rotated from the default orientation, but they will fit.
They are small copper plated steel balls used in small target practice guns. Here is a link to the cheapest ones I know of in the US. www.amazon.com/Crosman-Copperhead-Copper-Coated-Bottle/dp/B000HKKY7M Any material with the density of steel or copper can be used. Small nails, scrap steel, pennies, etc. Lead can also be used if you take care of the toxicity. I have seen other clocks that recommend sand or rice, but the weight shell would need to be gigantic to reach the desired weight.
@@stevesclocks I ordered and measured the springs out of five different click pens here. The ones that seem to work best are the Bic Clic Stics for the ratchet and the Paper Mate Inkjoy Ballpoint 100RT for the minute hand assembly. photos.app.goo.gl/jBy6gUSpvM6RvVCt5
@@UnlistedChannel932 Thanks for the info. The Bic Clic Stics look like they might work all around. The ratchet has a 5mm hole size, so any spring with an OD of 5mm or less should work. The minute hand spring needs an ID of 3mm to fit over the arbor and the OD was increased slightly to 5.5mm.
This was such a fun build, I can't wait to get the next one finished!
Def buying the file once i purchased a 3d printer. Seems like a fun project both to learn your 3d printer and to assemble.
Questo sarà il mio prossimo orologio
This is super cool!
Hi Steve, good afternoon! I started printing the small clock with the 10 day gear, as you said, now what size upper part of the weight shell should I use? thanks.
Your filament and printer tolerances might be different than mine, so you have to test to see how much your clock needs. The manual will tell you how much my clock needs. You can use that as a starting point, scaled proportionately to account for your runtime.
this would be about 60 bucks worth of BB's to fill where im at so im just going to try filling it with a 3$ bag of sand. according to some quick calculations I did the biggest weight you have should weigh about 9lbs filled with sand.
Measurements on sand local to me showed a specific gravity of less than 2. Solid steel has a density of around 8. Even allowing for air pockets around the BBs, sand only has 1/3 the density. I really wanted for sand to be an option, but the weight shell might need to have many extensions added to be useful. Any type of scrap steel is a better option. Or low denomination coins if you have them. Around US$10 in pennies would probably be enough.
Hello Steve, I managed to get the watch to work by increasing the weight, but I noticed that it is advancing the real time by a few minutes, what should I do to make it synchronized with the real time and not advance the minutes?
Lower the pendulum bob to slow down the clock.
@@stevesclocks Do you mean to print another arm of the pendulum or just unscrew the nut and lower the pendulum? And if it persists, what else can I do?
@@dirvesidade The adjustable nuts below the bob are designed to allow the effective pendulum to be adjusted. Move them and observe the difference.
like the pennies in the pendulum. you could have used pennies in the weight. US pennies weigh 2.5 or 3.1 grams.
Good point. Anything with a density near steel or copper can be used. Zinc in modern US pennies is around 7. Steel is 8. Copper is 9. Lead is 11, but barely worth the toxic risk.
Sand only has a density around 2-3, so the weight shell would need to be huge to be functional.
It would take 180 zinc pennies per pound, so just over $14 for 8lb of weight. This is probably cheaper than most other options.
Wow! Great project and impressive engineering. I don't have a 3d printer nor do I want one but can these clocks be made from Baltic birch plywood on a scroll saw?
All my designs are completely optimized for 3d printing. A scroll saw design would need to be optimized differently for wood. I keep saying I want to make a wooden clock, but there always seems to be "one more" 3d printed clock I am working on. It may happen someday, but I don't know when.
Good evening Steve, I finished the watch, I made it last 10 days, I did the pendulum test which lasted 5 minutes until it degraded, I did the test with 3.9kg and it only worked for 3 hours and stopped completely, I increased the weight to 4.6kg and it lasted the same time or less, I'm using hook line, it's harder. What's wrong, sorry for the questions, I'm translating everything on Google so I can finish the watch. What should I do to make it work normally???😭
It could be too much friction. 5 minutes on the bearing test is fairly short. Make sure the seals are removed from the bearings and the factory grease has been removed. Then test for friction in the gears. Everything should spin freely.
The clock could be out of beat. Make sure the pendulum ticks at an equal angle from left to right.
If these things don't work, try the 7 or 8 day runtime.
Hello Steve, I bought this project on myminifactory, I was separating the files for printing, I've already started printing some pieces, and I noticed that there are several types of pendulum, I printed the pendulum-shaft, I would like to know what the other pendulums are for, I realized that there are several sizes, and which weigth shell top should I print???
Everything should be described in the manual. The pendulum shafts with "_long" or "_short" names are only used if you need additional adjustment for the time. Start with the normal ones.
The weight shell depends on the runtime option and the overall friction in your gear train. Build the clock a determine how much weight your clock needs to run reliably, then print the appropriate size according to the table in the manual.
@Steve Peterson
I'm about to start assembly of the clock, but unsure on the weighting to use.
The "Weight Shell" section of the printed guide says 8 lb/3.6 Kg, your video here has 10.8 lb/4.9 Kg. Another section of the printed guide has projected weights of:
- 7.8 day = 3-4 lb/1.4-1.8 Kg
- 10.1 day = 3.9-5.2 lb/1.8-2.4 Kg
- 15.3 day = 5.9-7.8 lb/2.7-3.53 Kg
I'm guessing therefor the that the 8 lb and 10.8 lb options are for the 32 day configuration? If the weight is greater than it needs to be, for instance the full 10 lb with the 10.1 day gear combination does that have any issues?
I was aiming for the 10.1 initially and thinking of using hand weights as they are considerably cheaper than BBs (here in the UK at least).
The weights listed are just guidelines since each clock may be different. There is not much harm in adding extra weight. It will increase the pendulum amplitude and make the clock more stable.
@@stevesclocks Thanks for getting back to me.
Having printed the base of the weight pot I can see that it's not going to be wide enough to get hand weights in, so will need to re-think this.
I'm finding a lot of the 3mm holes for the shafts are mighty tight, so will probably need to open these out slightly with a drill.
I'm thinking a light sanding might be called for on clutch components too to clean up the surfaces. I'm guessing my printer must be a bit off as I'm finding a lot of the components very tight - obviously it can't be your files as many others have successfully built the clock
@@tomsimmons4482 You can use anything for the weights. A rock with a pulley on top would work.
Most printed holes end up smaller than the initial size. The design starts with slightly oversized holes with the expectation that they will still end up undersized. It is easier to drill a small hole to the proper size than dealing with a hole that is too big. No need to blame your printer. :)
@@stevesclocks you know, in an odd way it is very tempting to get a rock and attach the pulley now that you've said that - would certainly make for a conversation piece!
A question for you, Steve. Do you have a source for the shaft collar on the minute hand arbor? Thank you!
Here is one at a good price in the US www.amazon.com/Hobbypark-Landing-Stopper-Airplane-Replacement/dp/B01EA912P8
There is also a printed part that can be used. It sometimes needs to be scaled down slightly so it becomes a press fit. Or it can be glued into position. The shaft collars are easier since they are removable, but they are not always easy to find.
@@stevesclocks Thank you for the fast reply! For some reason I wasn't coming up with that on Amazon. I just looked it up and ordered them, so they will be here in two days. I have the clock running and almost completely reliable. I am going to disassemble it tomorrow to make some adjustments and add a little teflon powder to the bearings. What I did for the original build was to add a 2.4 mm hole through the printed collar and used two 2.5 mm set screws (180 degrees apart) to hold it in place. I think the shaft collars should be a little easier and possibly more reliable in the long run.
Hi Steve, first, let me say, I love this project, and it'll be my first when I get my 3d printer. My question is... if one wanted to mount this on a 2x4 or 4x4 or 2x6 for a free standing clock "a la grandfather clock," is there a way to mount this clock and extend the hour and minutes hand?
Thanks
Ralph
Thanks. A clock like www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-large-pendulum-wall-clock-137009 might be easier to mount free standing or in a case like a grandfather clock.
Most of my clocks should be able to support longer hands. The extra weight should be minor since the minute hand would only need to be lifted once per hour. Only the second hand in some of my other clocks would need to be balanced.
One consideration is the dial often supports the arbors for the gears behind it. You have to plan around it if you enlarge the dial. That is why I recommended the large clock that already has a bigger dial.
@Steve Peterson thank you. When I say extend the hour and minute hand, I mean protrude out to allow for the movement to sit behind it in the "back" of the 2x6, yet not hidden as that is the beauty of the works, and the hands on the front or face of the 2x6.
@@ralphguerrero518 All of my clocks use a metal shaft for the fastest hand and a printed shaft for the rest. In this case, the minute hand uses a metal shaft that can easily be extended to any length.
The hour hand shaft would need to be extended. Most slicers have features that would allow you to split out the center portion, scale it, and merge it back into a single piece.
Some of my other clocks with a second hand would need these edits on two of the gears. The second hand has a metal shaft. Both the hour hand and the minute hand would need to be extended.
My wall mounted clocks are designed to hang from the back. They could possibly hang from the front. You would have to decide if it would be strong enough without sagging.
Hello Steve
Congratulations on this achievement.
I just bought the project from the MyMiniFactory site.
I was wondering: the diameter of the '6x3 / 4 "flat head wood screw' is 6mm? This value seems a bit high ...
Thank you in advance for your reply.
Regards,
Robert
Hi Robert,
The outer thread diameter is 3.5mm with around 0.7 threads per mm. The length is 19mm and the head diameter is around 6.5mm.
All wood screws in this country are sold using numbered sizes, but the diameter is not directly proportional to the number. A #12 screw is only 56% larger than a #6 screw. I ordered some metric wood screws from AliExpress to check if M3*20 or M3.5*20 are a good fit.
Steve
Hi Robert, My international order just came in and I tested a cube with screws going in all 6 sides. M3.5*20 are a great fit. They are maybe 10% tighter than the local #6x3/4" screws, but still easy enough to go in all the way. This is the only screw needed for the Easy Build clock.
@@stevesclocks Hello Steve
Thanks a lot for your answers.
They correspond to what I expected, but I would rather have the official answer from "the expert", rather than make mistakes.
My project is progressing well. I hope to be able to start assembling at the end of the week.
Best regards
@@stevesclocks Hi Steve,
Yes! I confirm. M3.5*20 are a great fit for me too.
@Steve Peterson
My printer has struck again!
When assembling the palette and pendulum I'm finding the nut very tight , which is not such a big issue. However, getting the pendulum onto the palette is different matter, it starts is about all I can say.
Similarly putting the parts of the pendulum together, it goes within 1/16" of closing, but that's it. Lining 2 parts up side-by-side the step profile looks correct so I can only assume it's the hole and peg.
As I said before I don't doubt your designs, it has to be my printer. I saw a video about a setting in the slicer for "fudging" tolerances on components like nuts, but I'll be blowed if I can find it not - is there anything you're aware of?
A simple XY scale on the nut should work. Maybe 2-5% larger.
What exactly is "Music wire"? Is that Piano wire? it looks pretty thick?
It has many names. Piano wire, music wire, spring steel. It is a hardened steel wire that is very stiff. It is available in many different diameters.
good evening Steve I am enjoying building your clock. I did notice frame-back-left-hook and frame-back-left are a little different. could you explane the difference. while following along with you I noticed you were installing the freme-back-left-hook item I printed the other unit
Both do the primary job of supporting the winding arbor. Frame_back_left_hook adds a small tab for storing the winding key. I added it to the release after creating the manual.
Hi. I want to build this. I have been to your site on where to purchase it. I have a question though. The FACE of the clock the outer white circle with the Hourly numbers on it... was that printed as all one piece? With a filament color change on a preset layer in Prusa? I ask because I have an Artillery Sidewinder X1. The filament color change is not very easy or precise. Almost impossible? It seems to plague the Sidewinder users globally. It may be a deal breaker on building any of the designs I see on your site. Might I say, All fantastic designs!! :)
I am guessing that color changes on your printer require watching the printer and manually intervening to swap colors. Each new color is several layers thick and there is a bit of tolerance regarding when you make the color swap.
The dial on the smaller clock has a 6.5 hour print time. The first color change at 5 hours is somewhat optional. I like to add a lighter color for better contrast, but it would be fine to skip this change or even delay it for up to an hour if you miss the target time.
The second color change for the numbers is more important for good visibility. It takes 18 minutes and the color change should probably happen during the first 9 minutes so at least 2 layers are printed in the final color. If you miss, then it wouldn't be too difficult to print just the last few layers of the dial plus numbers and glue them onto the solid color dial. That should be about an hour long print with a 9 minute window near the end to make the color change.
btw: MyMiniFactory is having their summer sale right now. All my clock designs are 30% off until the end of August.
@@stevesclocks Thank you for your prompt reply! Two questions.. How do I get the 30% off? And as this is my very first clock build/print. Is there any difference between the regular size and the large clock as far as difficulty?
@@charlesparell5597 The designs are mostly identical except for the size differences. The larger clock has a heavier escapement, so it needs more energy to keep it going. The runtimes are a bit shorter, but still quite reasonable.
The discount is enabled by entering "SummerSale2022" during checkout.
It looks like the shaft in the minute hand assembly has a flat. Did you grind this, or is there somewhere you can buy shafts already like this?
The flat is designed to fit a "D" shaped hole on the minute hand. This allows the shaft to rotate with the minute hand when setting the time. It doesn't need much accuracy. Just grind it until the minute hand can be pressed on.
I grind the flat using a bench grinder. It only takes a few quick passes. A metal cutting disk on a Dremel tool should also work nicely. A belt sander would also be an option. The tip might need to be annealed to use a hand file, since music wire is typically hardened.
Using brass for the shaft would be an alternative that would be easy to work using hand files.
@@stevesclocks Thanks for the reply. I will probably go with brass as I live close to the ocean and have found some steel shafts corrode over time, and when I can I like to use hand tools over power tools.
My printer has a bed that can print 223x223 cm's. Would like to purchase/print pendulum clock that fits my printer. Please refer me to model that will work.
All of my clocks will fit on a Prusa MK3S (250x210) or Ender3 (220x220), so they should fit on your printer. A few of the smaller clocks also fit on a Prusa Mini (180x180).
The one I'm looking at published 6/10/2020 170x270x120. Is the 270 cm not one piece?@@stevesclocks
@@achillesmjb That is the overall size of the assembled clock, assembled from many smaller pieces. The descriptions on MyMiniFactory also list the minimum printer size for each design.
I have a Prusa MK3S so I know that every component can be printed on a 250x210 printer. The 220x220 Ender 3 is a popular printer and I make sure that everything will fit it as well. Some parts need to be rotated from the default orientation, but they will fit.
Thanks Steve for detailed assembly video. What stands for "BB" that you use to fill the weight container?
They are small copper plated steel balls used in small target practice guns. Here is a link to the cheapest ones I know of in the US. www.amazon.com/Crosman-Copperhead-Copper-Coated-Bottle/dp/B000HKKY7M
Any material with the density of steel or copper can be used. Small nails, scrap steel, pennies, etc. Lead can also be used if you take care of the toxicity. I have seen other clocks that recommend sand or rice, but the weight shell would need to be gigantic to reach the desired weight.
@@stevesclocks oh, I see. Thank you very much! I wish you great success and much joy in what you love to do!
Which brand of pens did you get the springs from? I am using Pilot G-2's and the spring from them appears to be too large for the holes.
I use springs from generic click pens. They are the cheap pens that many companies give away as advertising.
@@stevesclocks I ordered and measured the springs out of five different click pens here. The ones that seem to work best are the Bic Clic Stics for the ratchet and the Paper Mate Inkjoy Ballpoint 100RT for the minute hand assembly. photos.app.goo.gl/jBy6gUSpvM6RvVCt5
@@UnlistedChannel932 Thanks for the info. The Bic Clic Stics look like they might work all around. The ratchet has a 5mm hole size, so any spring with an OD of 5mm or less should work. The minute hand spring needs an ID of 3mm to fit over the arbor and the OD was increased slightly to 5.5mm.
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