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I bet it will look great. You can post pictures on MyMiniFactory or the web site forum at www.stevesclocks.com/forum

@@stevesclocks Be assured I will, everybody needs to see just how amazing your clocks are. I love the fact that, while the clocks are your design, we can make them our own simply by using our favoutite filament. When I have finished this one I am going to purchase your moon phase clock. I love your designs.

SP13 is the easiest to build and should be very reliable. Any printer less than 5 years old is capable of printing my clocks as long as the build plate is large enough. 220x220 can print all of my clocks. You can find the assembly guide with instructions and parts list at www.stevesclocks.com/sp13

@@stevesclocks thanks

I consider it to be a mechanical analog clock with digital accuracy. The mechanical portion makes all the noise and needs the smooth motion to make it quieter.

You may be able to easily get your old clock working again. In my experience, the most common fix is to clean the pendulum bearings again. Then check that all the gears still spin freely on their arbors. A tiny drop of lightweight oil on the arbors and lithium grease on the pinions may also help. For the easy build clock, make sure to use the "Rev 2" updated gears. It can still be downloaded from MyMiniFactory. This fix eliminates gear 3 pushing against the escapement.

@warrenreif5369 Generic RTC modules are accurate to about a minute per month. Precision RTCs add voltage and temperature compensation for an accuracy of about a minute per year. They only cost about a dollar more. The only time the clock loses time is when it loses power. Synchronizing to a global reference time adds a lot of complexity. It needs to connect to the reference time, and it needs sensors to know where the hands are pointing so it can bring them back to position. I have considered an alternate solution of using the Arduino Nano nonvolatile memory of recording each second that the hands move. If power goes out, the algorithm only needs to know how many seconds the power was out. The clock could run fast until the hands catch up. If power was out for 11 or 23 hours, then the clock would run backwards for an hour. Of course, there is also a trivial solution of making sure power never goes out. A small USB battery can power the clock for a week or two. Plug the battery into a wall charger so it stays fully charged, then feed USB power from the battery to the clock.

@@stevesclocks Thanks for the quick and highly informative feedback. I program C/C++ primarily in the Arduino world, so an atomic clock solution, similar to the real time clock implementation, seems doable. My thoughts on a "never let the power got out" solution was to mimic the computer back up approach where a battery is always providing power to the load (clock) and is charged at a safe, long term voltage when power is on.

@@warrenreif5369 Powering the clock with USB power makes it really easy keep power applied. The biggest challenge is finding a power bank that doesn't go to sleep. My 10,000mAh Anker power bank shuts off with only a single clock load but will run continuously if a few clocks are attached. A no-name 5,000mAh model will stay running for several days with one clock load.

The moon phase clock assembles really easy. I am looking forward to seeing the extra touches added.

@@stevesclocks Thanks for the encouragement. Just had so many things going on and I keep pushing this back, plan on starting this week.

I have been thinking about writing a book.

@@stevesclocks That would be an awesome book!

Which link is broken?

Some brass works great. And some brass is too soft. It is not always specified what type you are getting. There is no need to change it if your clock is working. Other builders using brass might not be as lucky. I specify music wire because it always comes in a fully hardened state. It will always be the proper quality.

The assembly guide can be downloaded from www.stevesclocks.com/sp2 This is a relatively old design. My newer clocks have much smaller parts lists. Assembly guides for all of them can be found at the same web site.

Its good to see you back. The moon phase clock is my new favorite. It has plenty of room to add customization.

It is a 3D printed design intended for each builder to print their own version. Links to the STL files are in the description. Any modern 3D printer with a large enough print surface is capable.

It can be downloaded at www.stevesclocks.com/sp13

Good point. Anything with a density near steel or copper can be used. Zinc in modern US pennies is around 7. Steel is 8. Copper is 9. Lead is 11, but barely worth the toxic risk. Sand only has a density around 2-3, so the weight shell would need to be huge to be functional. It would take 180 zinc pennies per pound, so just over $14 for 8lb of weight. This is probably cheaper than most other options.

It seems like there may be too much friction in the central arbor. The most common places are gear 6 binding where it passes through the dial, or the gear stack getting pinched by the frame. Check for a small amount of end shake on the central arbor. Trim the height of one of the spacers if needed. Frame pinch will steal a lot of the drive power. Then look at the escapement to decide where to debug next. If the escapement is sluggish, focus on gear train friction. If the escapement moves quickly with each tick, then double check the pendulum free swing test. Sometimes the bearings need a second cleaning. This clock has a lot of runtime options. 32 day mode will run with the largest drive weight, but the pendulum will have a very shallow amplitude. 8-10 day modes will be significantly easier to keep running, even with smaller drive weights.

@@stevesclocks Thanks. I did wonder about the entire arbor being trapped, but it felt like these was some play. The pendulum is free swinging for over 10 mins. The free run test was smooth and the stopping the escapement and letting it run again it was quick and smooth at all points. I'm running the 10 day option currently. Is there an updated consolidated guide?

@@tomsimmons4482 The latest assembly guides would be on my web site at www.stevesclocks.com/sp5

This design is completely optimized for 3D printing. I have considered selling a few fully assembled clocks. It would likely be a volume of 1-2 units per month. Selling it as STL files allows the design to reach hundreds of users. There are plenty of wooden gear clocks available from other designers if you want to avoid buying a Chinese pendulum wall clock from Amazon. :)

They can be downloaded from www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-290349 and www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-290350 on MyMiniFactory. There is a small charge to compensate for the hundreds of hours it takes to design and document each clock.

The design only needs a few small adjustments. However, the manual still needs to be written so it will be a few weeks before it can be released.

I believe that every clock should be designed to take advantage of the material and construction methods used to build it. This clock has been completely optimized for 3D printing. The gears have just enough material to be printed but would need to be strengthened to be suitable for CNC routing. The frame would also need to be redesigned. It could be ported with some rework. However, you may be much happier with a design from someone that specializes in wooden clock designs. I may design wooden gear clocks in the future, but for now all of my clocks are optimized for 3D printing.

@@stevesclocks Could I possible get the number of teeth on each gear. I am very good at redesigning things to work. My current grandfather clock only runs of one day. I would like it to be able to work for a month on its own. Thank you for a very interesting designed clock. I may try and figure it out by closely inspecting your video. If you should ever decide to to try out any wooden Clock designs please let me know. Thank you.

@@rickibaron4816 You can download the assembly guide from www.stevesclocks.com/sp5 I recommend starting with the 8 day runtime option.

@@stevesclocks Thank you very much. This is exactly what I needed. When I get it going I will let you know (It might take a week or two).

Every printer in this list all3dp.com/1/best-3d-printer-reviews-top-3d-printers-home-3-d-printer-3d/ except the resin printers and the one in the "toy" category is capable of printing this clock. Pretty much any modern printer with a print area of at least 160mm by 160mm can print it. Some of my larger clocks require a print area of 210mm by 210mm. If you think you may want to try the others, go with at least a medium size printer, or any printer without "mini" in the name.

Sure, you can use the pulley from the easy build weight shell. You may need to guide the cord when winding. The moon phase clock has a larger pulley and a deeper slot in the weight shell body to provide more separation on the cord. I believe that the STL files released with the design are correctly matched. Is it possible that you printed a weight shell body from the easy build clock? If so, then it would need the smaller pulley from the easy build clock.

ich glaube du hast recht !@@stevesclocks

ich habe tatsächlich die falschen gedruckt und das gleich 2 mal falsch! Mit 75 ist man manchmal etwas unachtsam Ich werde mich bessern! Schönen Sonntag wünsche ich dir

Every design gets more and more reliable as I discover better methods. The moon phase clock seems more reliable than the crazy gear wall clock. It uses a smaller gear tooth that allows 12 tooth pinions compared to 8 teeth in the crazy gear clock. The active gear tooth surface is the same, but more pinion teeth will have less engaging friction. The only clock that is more reliable is the small 8 day clock. Smaller gears need less drive weight. However, the larger gears look so much more impressive. They just take a bit more weight to run reliably. Also, the only reasonable gear ratios for the moon phase gears are 59:6 and 60:5. These need to have a tooth pitch that is smaller than the crazy gears would allow. And the intermediate moon phase gear is right in front of gear 5 in the lower left corner. The clock looks better using the small gear teeth everywhere instead of mixing sizes.

Lower the pendulum bob to slow down the clock.

@@stevesclocks Do you mean to print another arm of the pendulum or just unscrew the nut and lower the pendulum? And if it persists, what else can I do?

​@@dirvesidade The adjustable nuts below the bob are designed to allow the effective pendulum to be adjusted. Move them and observe the difference.

I am not experienced with laser cut aluminum, so I don't really know. The gear spokes and rim should be strong enough in aluminum but would need to be made stronger if you wanted to laser cut them from plywood. You would need to cut the large gears and pinions separately and merge them together along with the shafts. The frame would need to be redesigned from components. Traditional clocks use brass gears with steel pinions. Brass on brass or steel on steel would wear out much faster. It might work much better if you could cut the pinions from steel or brass. You might have to experiment with the drive weight and runtime options. I have no idea if your clock would require more or less drive weight compared to 3D printing.

It could be too much friction. 5 minutes on the bearing test is fairly short. Make sure the seals are removed from the bearings and the factory grease has been removed. Then test for friction in the gears. Everything should spin freely. The clock could be out of beat. Make sure the pendulum ticks at an equal angle from left to right. If these things don't work, try the 7 or 8 day runtime.