I didn't expect to be so impressed... Sovol SV07 Review (with KLIPPER!)
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- čas přidán 30. 05. 2023
- The SV07 is a budget i3 with Klipper firmware and some odd design decisions compared to the SV06. But does fast = good? Watch to find out!
Purchase link - sovol3d.com/products/sovol-sv...
Join the Maker's Muse Community - www.makersmuse.com/maker-s-mu...
SV07 Profile for PrusaSlicer - www.makersmuse.com/sovol-sv07...
Clearance Castle - www.makersmuse.com/clearance-...
3D Printing Quick Start Guide - www.makersmuse.com/fdm-fff-3d...
3D Printer Buyers Guide - www.makersmuse.com/purchasing...
3D Printing Essentials - www.amazon.com/shop/makersmuse
Review disclaimer - Sovol sent the SV07 free of charge for purpose of review. No money has changed hands, no preview of the script or video was made available to Sovol and all opinions are my own. - Věda a technologie
Couple of corrections for this one:
- The hot end is the same high flow design as the SV06 Plus (I added text to clarify this but still stated SV06)
- The interface is klipperscreen (web interface is Fluidd) - got mixed up thanks @PedroLamas
- The line break for G-code substitution should be /n not
- I actually have this correct in the config but got confused editing late. thanks @plampix for pointing that out
- The Klipper command to enable the blower fan could be triggered using a M106 macro within Klipper, however I would argue that you don't always want it on with the cooling fan (like with PETG printing). Sovol's new config should fix this behaviour anyway and I will report back
I generally review printers as received and focus on the usability side, so my lack of Klipper-fu showed in this vid. As these machines become more common I'll be diving more into that side of things if require. Cheers!
P.S. - Never forgive CZcams for disabling annotations, which could have fixed all of this.
Exactly! I want my video sticky notes back.
You could make an M106 macro in klipper with a boolean variable to trigger the extra cooling fan, which can be set to a default value of either true or false. Then you can set the variable in the start gcode from your slicer which can be altered on a per filament setting (at least in the case of prucaslicer and derivatives).
Best of both worlds I'd say. Would have been neat if Sovol had put that effort in though...
All of the Klipper-fu missing doesn't seem like a problem. It sounds like something they're going to fix in sw before delivery and nothing is particularly scary in twins of missing or wrong use of features in my mind.
Wait, it really is "/n"?! Like, literally every bit of software I ever saw that supports anything similar, uses "
".
Good vedio! Can you have a review about filament dryer? It seems to be important while printing PA and long-time air-contacted PLA.
Finally, no cloud, grateful for local network only!
Print those guns boysss
@@1Rab you cant over the cloud???
@@Reds3DPrintingNot if you don't want a knock at your door a few days later.
@@Reds3DPrinting I mean you can, its just HIGHLY recommended that you dont to avoid legal troubles if they rear their head in the future.
Great video, but some corrections are needed: yes, the web interface is Fluidd (I'm one of the developers) but the touch screen is running Klipper Screen; you can create a new M106 macro in Klipper to override the default behavior of M106 and thus start both fans at the same time (same goes for M104), so no "dodgy g-code replace" needed!
Good to know, thanks! Great work on the web interface, it's excellent.
Kinda wish the manufacturer made profiles that work out of the box.
Thanks Pedro for Fluidd! It's been a joy to use. From zonestar to Vorons, it doesn't care and gets the job done. ❤
Is it possible to use it without connecting to wifi like usb or sd?
"No account required" you're a hero.
Sovol said they went with V-wheels to keep the cost down and make it more available for newbies with a lower budget, I have no doubt that they will release another model with SV-06 specs, Sovol have made some excellent printers built on open source designs and most of them have been improved upon so I have nothing but respect for Sovol!
Hi Angus, great first look into Klipper, BUT: it's obvious you're new to Klipper.
Some of the prints (artefacts) look like some more tweaking/calibration is needed. Rounded corners could indicate a too aggressive pressure advance or input shaping. The "SET_FAN_SPEED" command is just standard Klipper G-Code. Klipper has some commands which are just plain text - yay for readability. The interface on the printer itself is klipperscreen - a semi-standalone project that has been integrated here.
Klipper is a fantastic firmware (and imo lightyears ahead of marlin), but needs a bit of looking into. See you next video!
If you have screw's for the bed I would recommend the [screws_tilt_adjust] option in Klipper, it was a game changer for me. It gave me a way to see how to turn and how much. ! example
[screws_tilt_adjust]
screw1: 58,-7
screw1_name: front left
screw2: 245,-7
screw2_name: front right
screw3: 245,179
screw3_name: rear right
screw4: 58,179
screw4_name: rear left
speed: 100
screw_thread: CW-M3
I'm in love with Sovol SV06 Plus.
I agree that the SV07 should have kept the linear rods because those were a major selling punt for me being a machinist by trade.
I purchased the Sovol 6 Plus and I love it. 300% print speed (not yet tested with anything other than PLA), is a great addition I did however add an external cooling fan. I had no issues with bed leveling and I kinda prefer the spring leveling for fine tuning. My prrintts have greatly improved over using my Ender 5 Pro. Bed size is larger and gantry height is also larger. I now use my Ender for laser printing and cutting. Thanks Angus for the videos, I've learned a lot and still learning. BTW: Sovol seems to be pretty good about shipping too, I ordered mine and it was delivered within 3 weeks. Yes it was a pre-order and the shipping was estimated to be 6 weeks.
I feel like they've finally sorted out their problems with the loose belts and wobbly bed. I just received an sovol sv07 and an sovol sv07 plus and they came with proper tightened belts, beds and v rollers, ready to print 250mm/s out of the box, cheers and thanks for this indepth video review. i feel like the sovol sv 07 is heavily underrated considering its affordability
I think the biggest issues with these pre orders is how fast things are moving. By the time these printers ship, there is something else. Be it a “max” or “pro” version or something else entirely
Well yes that is how smaller business works in manufacturing. The revenue from the current product funds the production of the next one and you limp along between cash infusions for development. You don't always need the latest and greatest thing, just get the product that meets your needs, if none curre tly meet your needs at your budget, wait.
Thats my biggest qualm with this boom in printers! Might as well hold on to your money because something better will be out as soon as you order something! Lol
Thanks for the PrusaSlicer profile for the SV07. This is what all 3D printer manufacturers should do. They re-skin Cura to make it specific to their new printer (usually doing a lousy job of it) so people buying their first 3D printer can install software and print, but most of us want a good printer profile for the slicer we're already using.
I know this was done 5 months ago, so a lot of us now are running the SV06 Plus with Sovol's own Klipper Screen. Works amazing, hoping to adapt the SV07 profile here for use on Prusaslicer with the SV06+. Thanks Angus!
Good to see you again!
It's well worth it to invest the time to learn klipper. It's an incredibly capable firmware and can take any printer to the next level. The documentation is excellent, and the discourse and discord servers are active, so finding answers is very easy. The problems that you ran into, especially with the M106 command, are trivial to fix once you become familiar with it. Not being critical at all, just making a suggestion :) Thanks for sharing the video
Another great review Angus
This is something that Sovol could have done on their end
For the extruder_partfan gcode you could create a multi_pin in your printer.cfg file that has the main partcooling fan and the pin that that the additional fan is set to
Get the pin that the `[fan]`section uses (this is the fan that M106 controls). For this example, PG1
Get the pin that is in the `[fan_generic extruder_partfan]` section (this is the pin that is controlled by that custom gcode). For this example, PG2
[multi_pin part_cooling_fans]
pins: PG1,PG2
Then you can update the main `[fan]` section with `pin=multi_pin:part_cooling_fans`
i think they see the blower is overkill for a lot of materials, so there should really be a different command to activate both or just the main one, and they most definitely could have made the blower fan be handled differently, I.E you can get a bit more creative with rules in config and set the blower to turn on when the primary part cooling fan is set to 255. So for i.e ABS when you need a little part cooling it wouldn't turn on.
The video cannot express the full power of the blower 😂 Finally got one on sale, and pretty happy with the results
Thank you for the profile Angus!
Congrats on one million
Thank you so much!
After i saw the External Part Fan i decided to build my own which is pretty beneficial cause my Bed-Slinger running 180mm/s @21.4mm³/s and currently my Cooling solution is limiting me.
Thank you again!
Your Slicer Code is a good starting Point as im now tinkering with it to get PWM working on the external part fan.-
love your work - got my SV06 after your review, not sure sovol nailed it with the 07, from the general consensus SV06 with the sonic pad + klipper is the go.
Hey Angus - thanks for the review. My Sovol SV 07 plus turned up on Monday but I was still busy reading reviews and articles. This is my first foray into 3D printers. Two days later I'm ready to unbox and put it together. Six hours later, I'm ready tp print. Yeah - learned about springs - was going to ditch them, then decided to put them back on. Anyway - first print - 3D boat thing. I can't believe how AWESOME this bloody thing behaves. It's mesmerising.
Who the hell designed all this stuff? I'm totally flabbergasted.
I bought it to print stuff I needed - not to tinker.
It's doing that perfectly, though I can see tinkering in the future.
My one downfall is SLICING. Who the hell wants to go down THAT rabbit hole?
It wasn't in my plan.
I have STL files I want to print but no. Klipper wants G some bloody thing.
Argggg - anyway - I digress.
This Sovol SV 07+ printer is everything I wanted and NO - I don't get paid for this - it's just an awesome piece of gear.
Still the most comprehensive and logical reviews of 3D printers on YT. Thanks!
You can do a gcode macro which starts both fans simultaneously. You can add the macro-command to the substitution section, but I think It should even work without the substitution function if you named your Macro „M106 S255“
This should work on that printer, I run this on my Sermoon V1 with a custom back fan...
[gcode_macro M106]
rename_existing: M99106
gcode:
M99106 {rawparams}
{% set s = params.S|float %}
SET_FAN_SPEED FAN=extruder_partfan SPEED={s/255.0}
Mine just showed up! Can't wait to give it a whirl.
Sweet hoodie dude!
Thanks. Quality videos again and again.
Glad you like them!
Couple of points other than the gcode macro solution for the cooling fan mentioned in another comment:
- Smoothing of hard edges may be due to Klipper's input shaping.
- Cooling solution may not be ideal. Will the blower cool near the outer edges of the bed for larger prints? It doesn't look like it will.
Input shaping and pressure advance can contribute to the sharp corners getting rounded
The line substitution bit is pretty cool. I think you could also accomplish this in Klipper, so it is really strange that Sovol didn't just make the M code work.
Can't wait for the Ender3 review. I have the "new" one here and it's been horrible compared to anything else I have on hand for our tiny printer farm.. Also I like the reference to Xcarbon and P1p machines. Speed, Good.....not cheap, but if time = money....yes. X Carbon or P1P is the way to go ! Great review like always there Angus ! You are the man !
Which Ender?
Old news now
Jesus man...1 000 000+... Congratulations
Kudos to Sovol for open sourcing the SV06 and for the nice Fluidd no-cloud local web interface on the SV07. Maybe the Sovol SV08 will be the SVO6 (linear rods, etc.) with Klipper & Fluidd.
great video. very informative
I imagine the rounding over of the edges would be aggressive input shaper. If it comes with an accelerometer, try using the MZV algorithm instead
Cool - when my pre-ordered SV07 comes, I'll use your PrusaSlicer profile. :) I got an SV07 during the launch day preorder (at the lowest $299 USD price too!), and it'll be my first printer! I'm pretty excited. (Do you know if PrusaSlicer profiles work with the other Slic3r forks like SuperSlicer?)
As always great video!!!
The smoothing on the owl is pour "input shaper" adjustments!!! If you exaggerate it will destroy detailed prints!!!
Best regards from your fellow youtube creator and long time follower from all of my accounts down here in Brazil...
Great video. Thanks.
You can also plug USB to Ethernet adapter in the Klipper/MKS pi console via the upper right USB port works great...
Nice video Angus. I have a very different requirement and that honking great cooling fan on the SV07 to me is what is wrong with most FDM printers. I use our 3D printer as our own miniature machine shop. We live in an apartment and we're a family of 3 and the only place the printer can go is the living room. I'm currently using an Artillery Sidewinder X2 primarily because it's relatively quiet. I tend to print a lot of PETG because I can reduce the part cooling somewhat because it makes the printer quieter. I don't really care about the print speed, I'm perfectly happy with a 93 minute Benchy because I try to start print jobs when we go to bed* and very few of my projects take longer than 12 hours. Like most people I started out with an Ender 3 (Great but noisy and finnicky), progressed to an Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus (I could watch a delta all day) and finally ended up with the Artillery. I suspect a lot of people are like us. We have to live with our printers in our living space and how quiet a printer is, is a big part of the buying decision.
*Yes, I know all about fire hazards. I have a modded completely separate smoke detector above the printer that will cut the power to the printer as well as scream bloody murder if it goes off.
Any thoughts on the SV07 model line vs getting an SV06 model line and adding their Klipper module? Pricing would be slightly more. Looks like you would basically trade speed for the better linear rod design.
Someone else mentioned it as well but the rounded corners on fast prints is due to the input shaping. From what I understand, it's a tradeoff: either have ringing due to resonances or rounded corners due to input shaping, or some combination of the two to lesser degrees.
There shouldn't be significant rounding unless you're exceeding the recommended max acceleration.
Looks like a good printer, but I too would like an SV06 style with all the good SV07 parts. :)
The reason the fan doesn't work with M106 is probably that the part cooling fan (which *is* controlled by M106) is the one on the hotend rather than the big fixed one. It's not an oversight, it's a reasonable default choice - though arguably not the best one.
You could change that in the config file, either by swapping the part cooling fan and the other one's pins, or if you want M106 to control both fans you have two options: make it a multi pin (slightly simpler but you lose the ability to control the fans independently), or keep the fan definitions as is and redefine M106 as a gcode macro that calls SET_FAN_SPEED for both (retaining the ability to control each fan independently by sending a SET_FAN_SPEED command directly).
Btw, editing the config file is to be considered a normal part of running klipper in my opinion. This is not like rebuilding marlin to fix something the manufacturer did wrong, it's like changing the settings in the lcd menus (but much more powerful).
The smoothing is Pressure Advance most likely. It seems to be mistuned. The hard corners should be sharp if PA is well tuned.
I think this may be my next printer
For the excessive smoothing that you're seeing, that's a telltale sign that the input shaper is set quite a bit too high. It's probably set too conservative, and needs to be tuned again properly.
Probably the acceleration is simply set too high
@@olafmarzocchi6194 Then smoothing wouldn't be the issue we're seeing. We'd see ghosting and bulging corners even through the 'shaper, potentially singular skipped steps resulting in extrusion wobble if the motors can't truly keep up. But this lost corner and detail definition with no ghosting? You can replicate this quite easily by just increasing your input shaping.
The manual itself states that for a given frequency input shape frequency and type, the higher acceleration the higher the smoothing.
It's written in klipper docs.
The test tower they provide also tests exactly the excessive smoothing.
If the frequency you set is correct you never get ghosting, you get excessive smoothing.
Congrats on a milly mate!
When are you going to do a review of the JP8080, they are still expensive. I wonder if they are worth it all these years later.
Try and flip the filament spool upside down so it feeds from the bottom side. It solved my tangle around the rod problem.
I agree, just mount the bed and use the leveling probe.
Thank you so much for this video! Ive been looking for a great printer for a reasonable price for over a month and I theink Ive found the right oone because of you, Thank you. (:
Screen is running Klipperscreen. Web interface is Fluidd.
Also, with the Klipper macro system it is trivial to write a macro that overrides the standard M106 gcode command to execute M106 *and* the SET_FAN_SPEED command at the same time without having to mess with the slicer profiles.
I'm not able to try on my computer right now, but I believe there is a typo where "/n" should actually be "
".
Hey. Thanks for the great work. Looks like they've used too high of a value for input shaper strength. This lets them use high acceleration values but causes rounded corners and less accurate parts. And that's how they're achieving a 25 min benchy on a bed slinger.
If you're going to use any of the stock spool holders from lower end printers, try applying paraffin wax to them. It reduces a lot of the friction between the spool and spool holder.
Have you thought about loading step files to your sliver instead of stl? You will see those triangles disappear on the print.
I love how they picked up the basic concept of my layer cooling. 😂
I talked a guy at my work into the P1P In my opinion, most people serious about 3d printing will wish they had it within a year. Just start at the P1P to start out with. I have the x1 carbon but understand that may be a ways out of a lot of peoples budgets.
I have a macro that parses M106 and allows you to use aux fan cooling from orcaslicer. M106 in klipper just turns on part cooling it's how klipper works.
can you review the Elegoo Neptune 4? seems extremely similar to this printer but at a lower price. Thanks!
klipperscreen I believe is designed mostly to be used in horizontal orientation, that's why some of it looks off in vertical orientation.
Btw. regarding that part cooling blowimatron control, since it's klipper isnt it like easy to remap it to for example just run as normal pcf?
I'm super excited to see how the Elegoo Neptune 4 is going to compare to printers like this. I just saw the presale announcement today and it looks like everything this thing does, possibly better implemented and at an even better price
4 months later:
yo hows it going i hope you got ur n4.
so basically its a god tier printer with some bad firmware issues and z-offset problems. id reccomend it over a sv-07 any day but be wary guys of what goes wrong.
@@thenewsonatrainit’s way cheaper than the svo7 too
On my CR-10S Pro I added a BLtouch and Bed hardmounts with these rubber/silicone things and nyloc nuts instead of the wheels. once done a basic level and never touched again BUT it is really not that great. only 4 points on such large beds is not enough for a solid hardmount and thermal expansion. I suggest using the compressable standoffs instead of plastic.
I don't know if it's on your radar, but I'd love a proforge 4 3d printer review. It seems too good to be true
Not sure if cura supports m107 auxiliary fan. I found a macro that makes the fan "listen" to m107 commands.
My take why sovol included abl and leveling wheels is because of the v wheels on a single extrusion. Not that precise if you ask me. If it would use two or linear guides like the kobra 2 or even rods/rails then you can totally ditch the bed knobs. With only one v slot extrusion its kinda hard to ensure the bed is somewhat level. I would have also preferred to not have leveling knobs especially since the sv07 can do gantry leveling. In combination with leveling spring you will never reach a true equilibrium that way because the bed will be adjusted to the gantry and the gantry adjusts itself to the bed. You are basically at the mercy of your bed springs to not drift over time that way as well as v wheel wear
Did you wind up installing the plastic bed levelling spacers from 4:00 ? Do you recommend new users just install those right off the bat?
Hey @MakersMuse , have you tried lower shore hardness TPU with this machine? How did it behave? I'm willing to buy a new large volume 3D printer to mainly print TPU. I know the Artillery Sidewinder X2 handles flexibles very well, but it's a bit outdated and since the SV07 Plus has klipper for 300$ i thought it could be a good choice.
For bearing spools simply introduce some drag, and unraveling won't happen.
Makes me wish the Ankermake ran Klipper. That said I did manage a 8.5 minute benchy a few days ago on my stock Ankermake.
That fan openly facing downwards looks like a recipe for disaster catching spaghetti
I'm completely torn between this and an Elgoo Neptune 4 for replacing my Artillery Sidewinder X1.
I don't need 300x300 build plate, I'm looking for reliable but serviceable and maximum material compatibility with the speed bump of a printer not from 2019 with what's considered to be a relic controller.
The screen seems nice for the price but somewhat redundant. Is there a 3D printer that comes with an Ethernet port and can be entirely controlled from a PC? I like the visual indicator on the front of the nozzle head. I don't own a printer, so is that a nice feature to have or the spool let you know already?
That blower fan only cools in the middle of the bed. How is the print quality towards the left and right edge?
Have tried any of the Kingroon printers?
Hi. What do you think about artillery X3?
I wonder how well it cools outside of the region where the curtain fan is blowing
I just picked one of these up from Sovol for $312 USD. That's nuts. It's listed at $329. I put one in my cart and filled everything out down to "complete your order." but I waited. I wasn't sure if I wanted to spend that kind of loot right now. About an hour later I got an email from them. "This is still in your cart, here's another 5% off." I couldn't say no.
I feel like the SV07 has two target markets, which may overlap somewhat:
1) People who want the "access-the-printer-from-your-computer" quality-of-life features that the Bambu printers offer, but don't want to deal with the cloud/account situation. (The X1C at least *does* work in LAN only mode, but of course one needs the account to set things up in the first place, and there's a few features that don't work properly in LAN-only mode.)
2) People who want a high-speed printer they can fiddle with and self-repair but aren't quite ready to go full Voron.
Either way, this seems like a solid option for the folks on the "tinkerer" side of the hobby. I'm not convinced it's a great choice for the "it just goes" side, though.
Glad to see we got to the same conclusions :)
Just klippered my Sidewinder x1, and the whisps are there too using the same cura profile that the original marlin did not have. Is it something to do with Klipper? Is there a klipper profile needed?
Salve a tutti, ho una sovol 7plus ho un problema con il livellamento nella parte destra il sensore va fuori del piatto e non lo legge, come posso risolvere ? È nuova ed è il primo utilizzo, ci sono dei PDF per vedere cosa controllare ? Non vedo sensori o blocchi fine corsa .
Hey. Question. Just got a 3d printer and need a table for it what size table/workbench do I need. Enough room for the build plate movement? I got the anycubic Kobra max. Or just enough to support the base? Please help 🙏🏻. Trying to get it off my dining table. In inches please 🙏🏻
Would love to see your take on the neptune 4 pro
I'm thinking about getting my first printer, this or the sv06 seems like a good one. What does everyone think?
How slow is the SV06 plus, in reality, compared to the SV07? I am torn which to get. Please help.
Thanks in advance!
I have heard some people say that they have had problems with Y axis tensioning, bed leveling and print adhesion. (such as the 3D Printing Professor on youtube.) Do you have any ideas what caused this, and the chances are of these things happening?
Any advice (for my Daddy) between the SV07 and the Prusa i3 Mini?
I have this printer and love it, minus one thing. I can't keep it from warping.
So, value for money which is better. The 06 or the 07?
I almost exclusively print in TPU and I print a lot of prototypes and one off parts I design in FreeCAD. I love my SV01. It's been a cheap workhorse that is much more reliable than the QIDI printers I've had and it uses inexpensive and easily sourced generic parts rather that the QIDI printers which go out of their way to make parts proprietary and then they stop making them next year when they discontinue that model of printer. I wish the SV01 used linear rods instead of V channel for motion control but the only thing I don't like about the SV01 is the tiny microSD card that's inconveniently located close to the Y axis V channel. It's very difficult to correctly insert the tiny microSD card in that awkward location. I've missed the connector and dropped the microSD card inside the enclosure and had to disassemble the 3D printer to remove the microSD card. It's a real pain to remove and reinstall the microSD card 14 times while iterating a rapid prototype design. I need Klipper. I've thought about putting OctoPrint on a RaspberryPi. Maybe I'll get a Creality Sonic Pad or BIGTREETECH Pad 7.
pre set input shaper did those smoothing.
Is that a 24v 60mm fan in the rear?
Why is the fixed blower so narrow? It misses a signifcant part of the X axis.
@MakersMuse Can u help me, i download your profile but every time i close prusa, and open again i have to load it again, its normal? or im doing someting wrong.
thanks
When will it start shipping?
how does the input shaper work
/n meaning "new line" is a common thing in many programming languages. I don't know if allowing it is intentional or not, but it's not like they slipped up and outright made a mistake either. Unintentional feature, maybe? I think they should keep it in, considering its usefulness and it doesn't seem to be harming anything.
Have you had a chance to look at the SV08? With a million plus subscribers I'd think that you would have been near the top of Sovol's list channels to test/review the SV08.
can i just say as an owner of this and the creality k1 and the bambu lab p1p and x1 (i have a printer buissness), for the price this is the best printer i have ever used. PERIOD. no, it is not as good as the bambu lab but i mean it is nearly £1000 cheaper, this is sooooo freaking good. Compared to the ender 3s and cr10s of not that long ago it is tthe best printer that i could possible recomend. I mean i am so impressed. However i still recoment a stock ender 3 to new printers, this is because for the newbies they kinda need to learn the issues and problems that the ender offers so that they can learn the skills that these newer printer just cant teach them (such as bed levelling manually and building printers and replacing motors and electronics), but if you arned an engineer or a hobbyist by all means buy this printer as it is THE BEST PRINTER FOR THE PRICE, PERIOD
Edit: i have operated printer for like 9 years now, this printer is really good. this is what we want to see from these brands as i have been waiting alongside many maker for a long long time for this type of printer at this prince, yes the p1p is good but to start you dont want a click and go printer, printer just are not at the point that you can press go and walk away so you still do need the skills that only a cheap and repearable printer can teach you so honestly buy an ender 3 then when you know how a printer really works, buy this or a p1p to truly appreciate it knowing that if something goes wrong you know how to diagnose and fix it. so the moral of this is BUY AN ENDER 3 AS A FIRST PRINTER
Would you recommend the k1? It’s either that or the p1p…
@@sniperpronerfmods9811 Honestly it depends, if you are a buissness that needs many machines that just work, then the k1 has better feature such as an enclosure and proper cooling, however if you are a hobbyist then the p1p is a far better option as if you are only buying one then the p1p has lots of upgradability and a better featureset for an enthusiest.
The x1 carbon however for a buissness is like the k1 but better in like every way :), so the p1p is good for a hobbyist and the k1 is good as a cheap x1 carbon replacement that has a full featureset as the p1p is missing some major features.
@@snample_ thank you so much for the info... last question then... do you think the k1 will be suitable and relaibe for farm use... just starting
You can create your own mixtape when you press the arrow key to the left many times, at the beginning of the video :D enjoy