TFSS: How To Build A Tube Chassis Front End - Bash Bar Fabrication
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- čas přidán 8. 12. 2015
- The Fabricator Series Segments (TFSS): Chapter pulled from "How To Build A Tube Chassis Front End" which demonstrates complete tube chassis front end fabrication on a Nissan 240SX S13.
This Chapter covers the design, measurement, and fabrication of the complete bash bar which in intended to hide nicely under the front bumper as if it does not exist at all.
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Love the videos. If you ever get the chance, a video on how you got started, where you went to school, what you would do differently etc, would be awesome!
Keep up the good work!
Love your videos bro, very informative, you make everything really relatable, like we are in the garage drinking beer and workin on the late model!! Keep it up buddy- roe!!
You noted that you need to add a line 3/4" further to each of your bend starts to line up with the end of the tube. I noticed this same issue on my ProTools 105 dies. It comes down to the slack in the strap that wraps around the tube. What I did to reduce having to make extra marks on my tubes that could confuse me later, was to make a few test bends marking both where the end of the die is on the tube, as well as where the bend actually started. Being that both marks where the same each time, just took my die grinder and made a witness mark on my bender die. Now, I just have to line up where I want to start my bend to this witness mark on the die and go. Obviously if I ever break, lose or for some reason need a new strap, then I will most likely have to redo this witness mark on the die to match any slack from the new strap.
I'm loving your explanations and tricks on how to overcome obstacles while trying to get notches into the right places and lined up. I have always found it kind of difficult to verbally explain many of those tricks and tips to anyone that happens to be getting into tube fabrication and is watching me. But, I will say that I too have learned a few new tricks from you here. Good stuff!
Oh, and Christmas is coming, ask for some welding gloves. Skin cancer is no joke!
+insaynbcr I'm trying to picture the method you describe, but having difficulty since I don't really have the same problem. I only use the 3/4" mark for finding the beginning of the die based on the impression in the bend since it is the same point I always base the measurements on.
The strap/stay for the tube doesn't slack on mine unless I get over about 110 degrees in which I need to go back and tighten it up a little. I am curious about what you are describing though. Maybe I'm just reading it wrong.
That mig runs so nice and clean !!!
Great work ,love it ,you have a great matter of fact way of explaining your work,fantastic resource ,Thank you.
Thanks for watching!
great video
another great video! Just wondering was the upright tube with the 70 on it in there for a crumple zone? I noticed you tied it into all your tube work and I haven't seen it done like that for a drift car.
Hi mate. Great video and great instructions. You better be careful with the bender, I think that pole is close to coming loose from the floor.
+Marcel Timmers It actually was in this video haha. There was some debris in the hole after cleaning up that the bolt didn't fasten all the way down.
what dye are you using in the model 3 bender? and what size dom tubing is that? gonna make a bash bar this weekend, just bought a model 3 bender!
+Danny Stalker Good purchase!
I use the 1.5 OD x 4.5 CLR for 1.5" x 0.120" wall tube.
Dude I see a porter Cable bandsaw in the background. I have the same one. How did you slow down the speed to cut metal?
Thom Wood I only cut aluminum with it. Steel or other harder metal will fry even the best metal blades.
TIG over/around MIG has never worked out well for me. Is this 4130 tubing?
+Derek Denti Running a bead over a small MIG tack is no biggy since the filler is the same. If it isn't blended very well then it makes a huge weld over the tack, but other than that it's ok. The tubing is DOM.
why didnt you make it removable?
+adam heed There isn't really a need for it to be removable since the entire front is a permanent design.
I think you made your life more difficult by not making it removable, since you had to weld on the car constantly
do your welders plug into a standard outlet???
+Tomas Bannon Yes. The TIG is dual voltage input.
+The Fabricator good to know thanks. I purchased a mig welder and it had a 240volt plug and I don't have an outlet for one soooo struggle... Does your mig work with a standard?
Tomas Bannon Yes it does. The MIG is only single voltage 110.
I really enjoy like the content of your videos. But I think the intro on this series is a bit too long. I usually just skip the first 1:40 minutes.
+htpzt It has some length, but I have to consider people who are watching for the very first time. Skipping is ok since all the intros are the same.
Curious why you do not use an auto darkening helmet?
+Moss Foster I get asked that a lot actually. The answer is mostly because this hood is the first one I ever bought (has history and character). I also had a bad experience a couple times with flash burn after using an auto dark that didn't quite get dark enough (many many years ago). I also really like the big window on this hood.
+The Fabricator. I know exactly what you mean by the sentimental value of the helmet. Even though I have recently upgraded to a Miller Elite Inferno helmet for TIG welding, I still have and use my non auto darkening large lens helmet for some MIG projects, or for buddies/kids to watch through. Like yours, mine is laden with stickers and such to personalize it. It'll be in my shop for years to come.
insaynbcr Haha, yeah it's kind of like a piece of me I guess. It's full of so many memories. Until the point where there is no fixing it, I'll keep using it.
+The Fabricator ... Let's see if I can clarify. Take a tube, and just make a mark somewhere you want to start a bend. Line that mark up with the end of the die. Get everything clamped down like you normally do. Go ahead and make a 90 degree bend. Pull the tube out and mark all the way around the tube right where the bend actually started, it will be anywhere from 1/2" -1" from your original mark correct? This will be the same distance on every tube you bend with that die and strap. Now, put the bent tube back into the die and line the first mark up where you did in the beginning. Tighen it all back down to tale out the slack. Now see where the actual bend start mark is? Mark this location on the die, and then make a nick mark right there with your cutoff wheel or sharp file edge. Now, you can mark on your tubes only where you where you want to start a bend, then just line this mark up with the nick you made on the die. When you bend the tube, the bend will always start right at the nick mark.
insaynbcr Ok, I understand what you're describing, but I'm not sure I see a need. I just use the beginning of the die for all of my measurements, so it comes out the same every time regardless.