Stihl Chainsaw Bar Stud Replacement Tip and Trick For Stripped Out Stud! MS-251 How to DIY
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- čas přidán 6. 08. 2024
- "Quick and Easy Way to Replace the Bar Stud on Your Chainsaw" AND Make it Sturdier!
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My name is Bre. I took two years of small engine repair at the local college. When I left school, I fell into a wonderful job at a local small engine shop where I worked the counter for a couple years. In 2010 my husband and I opened up our own small engine shop in central Arkansas where I am able to work alongside my family and best friends. We see over 2,000 pieces of small engine equipment every year, and answer 1,000's of small engine questions. We specialize in brands such as Briggs and Stratton, Kohler, Echo and Shindaiwa, but work everyday on MANY other brands like Stihl, Husqvarna, Honda, Craftsman, Remington, Red Max, Troy Bilt, Scag, Bad Boy, Hustler, World Lawn, Poulan, Mantis, Etc.. Hopefully, my experience I share, will save you Time, Money and Frustration in the future!
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Although very informative, these videos are for entertainment purposes. Please use all possible safety precautions when repairing and operating your small engine equipment. - Jak na to + styl
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Best advice I ever got
Double the quote and add 15% on top of that
That’s the actual price your gonna pay
Suggestion:
All outlets 20amps
All outlets, quad box
Get a quiet heating / cooling system, I’ve got an open floor plan in my garage and the heater gets noisy after awhile. Could interfere with your vid’s
SUPER FLAT FLOOR. Helps with shelving
Very good lighting
The direction your shop faces is important...i wish my house faced south. Most people hang out on the south side exterior during cold winter months. Storms/winds usually travel west to east.
Highly recommend gable exhaust fan and louver vents. Also add insulation to the walls
We love our sky lights. Plenty of electrical fixtures / hot water too would be nice . maybe wifi cable from the house would be nice. Security system also. Ceiling fans over certain areas.
Totally agree with skylights. Buy good qualityand installthem properly. Fans (any air movement) help reduce or prevent sweating of the concrete during spring and fall when the ground freezes or thaws.
It has already been mentioned, but floor drains. I would also do a small lean to for waste oil, air compressor, etc.
SHOP BUILD: A dozen years ago I built a 24 x 36 shop and made some decisions that I’ve never regretted. 1st was going with much taller walls. I went 12’ and I’ve never hit a light fixture when flipping big things around. 2nd was upgrading the concrete from 3000 to 4000 psi. Back then the cost was only a dollar more per yard and to this day there are NO cracks in my floor where I often do work on farm tractors. 3rd is having PLENTY of power outlets and include plumbing for air at each of your work stations. As my dad used to tell me, “Take my advice and do as you please. If my advice changes what you please to do, then maybe it was good advice.” Thanks for all you share with us.
Yes to taller. We did it with a concrete block base.
+1 for outlets. I saw someone who said 4 gang outlets every 6' was enough 😅
Your new shop: If you can do your own electrical and insulate it you will save a butt load of money. I just put up a 30X50 and did all the electrical (it is currently not insulated but I will do that in the future). The building has its own circuit breaker box and several breakers. I put 3 to 5 outlets per wall on 4 different breakers. I made up my plan and then hired a local electrician to look over my plans to make sure they would pass (cost me $250 to do this vs thousands to have the electrical done). It is good I did this because he pointed out where I needed to have conduit where it was not in my plan. I did it per his recommendations and it passed with flying colors. Oh, another thought I just had, make sure you have your electrical supply (and other plumbing) in place before they pour the floor. Way easier that way. Thank you again for another great video and keep them coming!
When you pour the floor, put pads in to hold a hoist even if you're not getting a hoist right away.
Even if you think the site is totally dry, put drain tile in. Someday you'll be glad you have it.
Concrete is cheap. Oversize the footers.
PS: I just converted my MS-250 C BE to a conventional tensioner. Involved the same procedure as in this video. I love it.
If you haven't poured your slab yet, install a grid of pex tubing for a radiant heat sysrem. During the few cold days in Arkansas you can keep your shop warm for pennies. If your property has a stream or spring that runs cool in the summer, you get the picture. Closed loop of glycol in winter, open low pressure/volume system in summer(consider drainage line placement). As for building options the skys the limit. Iowans and even more so Minnesotans build houses, churches and businesses in metal buildings. I like windows over shop lights, good luck
A slop sink mounted to the wall outside of your bathroom will keep your restroom cleaner and you can still cleanup when the restroom is in use.
Agree with lots of power outlets and LED lights. We used 1/3 of our building as an insulated shop while the other 2/3 was not insulated. Same power and lighting throughout whole building. Smaller space is much quiete and cozy compared to other where tractors, 4-wheelers and parts storage shelving are.
We use thick rubber mats where you are standing by benches to save your knees in the future.
All the best!
Put in enough doors for cross ventilation in our warm southern weather. I would also install a couple of the open and close roof vents along the ridge. Its best to bite the bullet and at least have roof insulation put in when you build it. I don t know of any options as good for insulation in the ceiling after construction. The walls you can insulate after you pay for the building if you want. Lots of great options there. The next thing I m sure you have thought of is plenty of LED lighting. A large exhaust fan in the gable will remove a ton of heat and one on each end is great. Also being able to close the large roll up doors and open walk through doors on each side of the building will provide a breeze through the building which is lost when you open a garage door. Good luck with your new shop I hope you enjoy it !!! You deserve it !!! Thank you for the great videos !!!!
If you haven't already, consider a couple of floor drains in the shop building. They are easy to do BEFORE the concrete goes down. I am not speaking about sanitary drains. Just floor drains so you could wash down the floor is necessary. Maybe a restroom in that building if possible!
Maybe even a cleaning station area.?
Sanitary, make sure it is separate from floor drains.
You should have room in existing septic tank. Inspector should be able to tell you.
Drains in the shop, if it has to be built by code, has to have separate septic tank. That got in my way.
#1 - Build it twice as big as you think you'll need, #2 - Over insulate, you won't be sorry, #3 - run your electrical conduits and plumbing under the slab and install a few extras conduits from side to side and end to end, you can thank me later, #4 - have the concrete contractor install plates for an overhead I-beam and hoist you'll be surprised how much you'll use it. Love your channel!
I built a metal shop building last spring and sat it on a pad with a 2' apron. If I had to do it again I would put the building on a short stem wall, 2" to 4", on top of the pad, that way no water can pool around the outside and seep under the walls. It also makes it easy to wash the floor and keeps stray sparks from going under the wall. I used silicone around the base, but I still have seeps, especially if ice slides off the roof onto the pad next to the outside wall. I am going to install heavy duty gutters this summer and that should help.
Regardless if the building is going to be occupied or used for storage, always insulate it to keep it from raining inside. It was suggested to me and I am glad I took the advice. As the viewer mentioned below, don't be conservative on the electrical. Put in more than you think are necessary, it won't be too many! Also, be sure you put outlets for 240 volts, at least two per wall. They don't' take take up much space and you can run both phases in the same conduit you use for your 120 volt receptacles. With a little extra wire you can wire every other 120 volt receptacle to a different phase all the way around.
As far as ceiling height, too short is a pain, but too high causes you to heat a lot of extra space. I guess it depends on what you think, there is no right answer. Same goes for doors, I only have the roll up main door to save wall space. If your main door is large enough, put a walk-in in the center of it? Of course as I mentioned above, gutters are a must.
Echoing (no pun intended) what Marc said, and be sure to have lots of outlets (e.g., 120 VAC, 20-amp service; 220 as/if needed). Run compressed air lines throughout. Lastly, insulate the heck out of the building. Insulation is one thing that will always pay for itself.
I had a metal building built - twice. First try was with a guy from a booth at the home improvement fair. It was a disaster and had to be torn down. Even the slab was wrong, but the new builder - agreed to as our settlement - was able to use it. The final building was great so pick a company that really knows what they're doing and check their references. Size the building as big as you can fit and afford. Somehow all of my space disappeared in no time (LOL). Make the big door tall and wide enough to fit trucks or even a motorhome you might want to work on in it. That will determine your wall height. I put "skylight panels" in my roof and they provided plenty of light, so I only needed portable spotlights for detailed work. Gutters and downspouts help keep the walls clean from spatter in rainy weather. Don't forget details like steps to the walk-in door and apron for the drive-in door in the plans. If you can, plan the big door so prevailing winds don't hammer it constantly blowing stuff inside. Hope that's not too much and that it helps!
If your budget will allow, insulate the floor with rigid foam insulation regardless of whatever type of heating/cooling system you use, it will help with condensate on the floor when weather changes from cold to hot or vise versa. Floor drains are necessary, minimum 200 amp electric service for a shop your size, and when you think you have enough lights...add a couple more.
My new shop got a heated floor, best invest ever. Cold is just gone, heat rises so even my bald head got rid of beanie mid-winter! Natural light, get those windows. Oh yeah, good compressor and ventilation also needed. Rizz you already got so thats free. Succes!
Having a garage door on both ends of the building so you can drive through is pretty nice especially if you suck at backing up trailers like I do.
I’d put in an extra walk in door and overhead door. Though you may not use them now, they can come in handy with changes in floor plans; especially they are cheaper today than tomorrow. If you can’t afford the add-ons now at least have them frame it up for future plan. Wishing you well. Thank you for all the great info and instruction. You’re terrific.
Steve. Plymouth MA
Put your windows as high as possible, it will let more sunshine in and it frees up your wall space. Your windows never get coverd up with clutter and you'll be able to see the sky that changes throughout the day, it feels less like working inside with high windows.
Stihl MS 250 had 1 stud beginning to strip out . Used Marine tex or JB weld and set in overnight . 1.5 years later , no problems . I didn't want to drill oversize and commit to a Heli coil in a plastic case . Now if it strips out I can still drill oversize and Heli coil . I have tighten the stud many times and it has never moved . Enjoy your channel and advise greatly . Go Chick Chick Chickanic Go !
Hi, Mick from Australia. As previously mentioned .... floor drains for cleaning.... powder room for number 1's and 2's ... also water taps ... and I mean everywhere. also air points for cleaning out your projects. Cheers
Great video. I hate those 1 nut saws. "Two nuts are always better than one!" (Quote from Chickanic.)
Ha Ha! Only someone from Hot Springs Arkansas would get the reference to the horse Stud reference. I love your content. Please keep uploading. I like it.
Lots of great advice, Here's mine; take lots pictures and put them on a labeled USB drive. Ask for the concrete to be slick finisher with a power trowel, it is much easier to sweep and vacuum and I haven't slipped yet. Oh, also operable gable end windows up high with a big assed (brand name) fan for summer cooling.
if possible, opt for a heroic amount of electrical outlets evenly spaced everywhere. I wish my garage had so many more. thank you for a awesome channel!
This is the slow season. Time to catch up on the neglected things around the house and shop. Get organized!
best channel on youtube
I enjoy your videos a lot. As a retired contractor and now a 2 stroke hobby repair man whose time isn't worth as much as it used to be, I have a couple of thoughts. If terrain permits and if codes allow, consider a situation where a drive through is possible. Insulated roll up doors on opposite sides of the building may alleviate traffic congestion on one side of the building. Next, if you intend to eventually add a second floor, lay out the footings for it on your prints which will be submitted to the permitting authority. Pour the footings along with the concrete floor and definitely go to 4000 psi concrete as mentioned below. When you go to add the second floor, the authorities and you will have record of where the footings are. This should save time, money and frustration. All the best!!
Recommendations from my shop building.
Don't short yourself on ac outlets. Put a few in the overhead for fans, wenches, buglight... Etc.
Keep leftover metal for making shelving. And collect all the self tapping screws for your use.
Add a concrete pad outside the shop for the air compressor.
Overhead venting system that can be closed off for winter.
I repaired a old 044, by drilling through, and putting a bolt in though the oil tank!! It saved the saw!, keep rocking, you are awesome!👍
A couple features I have in the shop are 1) floor drains and 2) a closed-off chemical/fume area with a vent fan for degreasing, painting, etc. Good luck.
I have a 40 x 60 here is what I would have done differently.
1. Do not install gutters. They will get packed up with leaves, the water will back up in the ceiling and ruin your insulation.
2. Make the concrete pad in front of the shop at least 25'. if there is any way you can swing it add a cover where you can work in the shade with a breeze.
3. On the inside I wished I would have covered the bottom of the walls with plywood, just off the ground, not touching where moister can wick up the wood. What happens is leaves, dirt and debris collect around the red iron beams and makes a huge mess over time.
4 Good LED lighting
5. Roll up doors.
6. Install an air system before you move in so that you can hose drops around and eliminate the need for one long air hose. PEX-A seems to work fine.
I have a stihl saw, save this video, excellent video Chickanic as always
Since you are building your first building, l have a few suggestions. First, I read that someone said floor drains, that's a great idea. I heard you say 30x50. Even my wife said that she thinks it wasn't big enough..
So, build the biggest building that will fit or is legally allowed. Second, put in any drains, electrical and plumbing, before you put in concrete. Have an area set aside just for your studio for u tube. Third, I noticed that your plans don't have any overhang on the roof. Have at least a foot overhang on all sides and 2 feet is better. You'll thank me when you go from the house to the shop in a downpour. Finally before you have the roof installed, have the builder install fanfold, which is a thin insulation that keeps the roof from sweating and dripping. And if you have some Amish around, they build a pole building faster and better and cheaper than a wick, or a Morton building. We have 2 buildings. One is thirty by sixty and the other one is 36x80. Would like to build another!!
If you have the room and funds go up to a forty by sixty. it's a standard size and the extra room will be a blessing. I built a 28x36 for my first shop and ended up adding eight more feet ten years later. South facing windows, LOTS of electrical, and very good plumping and drains will make life easier too. As for in-floor heat, where you are I wouldn't bother with it. It's nice up here in the north, but you need cooling more. Look into heat exchangers or geo-thermal systems. For the money, they would do best in the long run. Oh, and twice the lighting than you think you need! I can't wait to see where you go with this.
In Rogers, you folks have a great automotive machine shop, E&D machine. He is the best when it comes to any kind of machine work. He helped me with a Briggs and Stratton head , OHV where the intake valve guide moved, he fixed that, then did a valve job , and when I put it back together it runs great. He also bored and honed 3 engines for me, plus complete reman work for my engines. Good luck with all your auto projects.
Absolutely go with 4500 lb concrete, regardless of how thick. Use the long fiber. It will show when finished, but will wear off with use. My 30 x 50 shop is 5 years old and doesn't have a single concrete crack. Oh, regardless of what size you build it, you will run out of room in a year!!
That's a great question you raised. I've always taught people the adjuster is for setting the chain tension and the bar and studs are for locking in place. But you bring up a good point about 1 stud in plastic. Didn't know about the stock oversized studs either. Great videos!
1) Check build codes and permissions. This may dictate size.
2) allow for run off roof, gravel or similar so you can walk around and service the outside.
3) windows are expensive but natural light makes a big difference. If not skylight panels. Saves on electric bill.
4) insulation, helps warmth in winter and heat in summer.
5) think about back or side doors opening in summer for ventilation.
6) consider inside centeral beam self supported as lifting beam for block and chain.
7) concrete floor, check best insulation for warmth and cooling.
8) consider ground source heat pump for heating and cooling. Very effective.
9) leave options for extending length or out side ways.
10) roller doors should have manual and electric operation, in case of power failure.
11) check earth bond requirements for lightening strikes.
12) consider roof layout for solar panels now or in future. This for electrical and warmth in winter or if you have a pool for sokar heating.
13) check for prevailing wind. So you don't have weather elements diving in through open doors. A small adjustment so you not full on makes a big difference.
14) steel posts by door to protect main entrance so you don't hit structure
15) coated steel comes in many colours. Choose the colours that blend the building to the environment.
16) check security options, locks for doors, alarms, options for security ligthing. Consider inside hasp and staple to secure roller doors to floor on the inside.
17) maximum wind load values for high winds. May require extra strapping if in tornado country.
18) Pitch of roof to off load snow fall. People forget how heavy snow is on a roof.
19) Consider using roof gutter for rainwater harvesting for grey water use for washing and cleaning.
Good luck with the build.
As a Civil Engineer, preparation is all. Never leave it till the build.
Was going to add... Your elevation, make sure you up high enough or grade away from building for water to shed away and not get into the building.
Plan for those big storms every so often. ( Maybe even a sump pump).
Think about where you would want a two post lift and ensure the floor concrete is done correctly for that so you don’t have to cut the floor when you decide you want one, which you will.
My builder put the sky lights on the side of my building to prevent roof leaks and it has worked well.
Congrats, wishing you all the best of luck!
maybe someone suggested this. my wife worked in a retail building made similar to yours, but larger. when it rained (or worse, hailed), the noise from the pounding on the roof was deafening. So maybe there is some sort of sound-absorbent material to counter that. and maybe some 'extra' sound-absorbent panels hanging from the ceiling to muffle the echo effect inside as well.
Looking forward to seeing the new digs!
You can't have too many outlets or too much light, BY that I mean there is no such thing as too many. Floor drains, and hoist locations. Ambient light is cheaper than electric, so I might consider several windows placed high to discourage break in.
Check out the cost of different types of insulation, as it's price has skyrocketed.
I'm an old retired stick builder in Iowa so for whatever it's worth, GOOD LUCK !
On a build we did I added clear corrugated strips around the top for natural/supplemental lighting.
Good luck on your new building. Stay safe out there. Love your tube shows. I have learned a lot off your videos.
In floor radiant heat is a must have. The most efficient form of heat you can use. I worked for a guy who had a new shop built that had it and it was so great! If I could ever afford to build a new shop, it would definitely have it.
Put at least a 200 amp electrical feed to the new shop - you always seem to need more power, floor drains, heated floor - you may never need any other heat, spray foam insulation - worth it, two post lift (need high space clearance), plywood on walls up to at least 8ft - takes abuse and makes it easy to hang things on wall wherever you need.
Have you checked out Steelmaster buildings? Steelmaster USA and some other manufacturers make affordable and very durable metal structures. I've seen some that are probably 80 years old and still look fresh. They seal up so well that insulation is often not necessary and can be ordered with various doors, end wall configurations and windows. Termites, tornadoes, rot, hurricane, fire no problem 😊
Edit: there are a few guides that have information of what to expect from the various manufacturers ex) Barndominium life
Depending on the winter weather or cold weather you may want to put in pipes to heat the floor. I would also put drain in work area for cleaning floor.
When I tighten my bar cover down I use the “one finger rule”. Put your wrench on the nut and tighten it down with only your index holding it. When your finger bends back, it’s tight enough. Some may need two fingers but you get the idea.
Chick, you are a real trip for sure. Laughed mao on your opening.
I have bought a few tools that I needed for repairing the electrical system on trailers as well as locating shorts and broken wires. I would place my order and get it with in just a few days before I would have to do that job. I would recommend Summit Racing to anyone doing a build on either a car or a truck.
Thank you for tip and trick for changing a chainsaw bar stud.
Always get the biggest building you can get!!!! You will always need more room than you got!!! Trust me!!!
Hey bree! If your thinking 30x50 is big enough add half then you will be few yrs before you decide it's still to small. I got a 30x40, wish it was bigger.
Love that Cougar on the intro!!!
Diesel Creek channel has a nice new shop about that size. Good luck!
the most important start to a new building is to consider future growth of the company. if you are not quit sure if it will become too small in a few years then you should consider going with a little larger building. we all know how fast a place can fill up when you start to move from one building to another.
in Denmark we use threaded bushings have used it since I was trained as an auto mechanic in 1984 now I make a living repairing small engines and excavators it has always worked for me keep up your very good videos and tips and tricks
That will be a nice size. Insulation, aircondioning and heating will make it useable in the hot and cold seasons we get. I would plan on a 2 post lift and design the rest around that.
With regard to your shop, I might consider putting the OH door offset from the center so I could have a large open area on one side of any vehicle I might put inside. This large area could be used as a workspace while a vehicle was inside or to store an additional vehicle or project I might be working on while still allowing access to pulling in and out via the OH door. Don't be afraid to go extra heavy on the concrete floor perhaps using rebar instead of mesh in the concrete and even pouring 6 or 8 inches thick. You might at some point be working on heavier equipment like a tractor. If that is too costly and you plan to install a vehicle lift in the future figure out where the lift will be and what special considerations in the concrete slab are needed where that lift will be installed.
Scrolling you tube and see a chicanic video, eeeerrr back up and get this video watched. Mrs Bre dropping knowledge! Don't tell your customers where you going to build it. They will come by at 9:00 Sunday morning to get a repair.
I'm sure you have already planned on it but have it insulated well and to prevent floor sweating have a floor vapor barrier installed and concrete sealed. Congratulations on getting a new place.thanks for your time and expertise.
Thanks a lot for your help God bless ❤
Consider an 8" or more raised concrete curb/wall. The area where the building rests. #1 gets the metal off the floor to prevent corrosion if your hosing things off.. #2 Way better for sweeping up and keeping clean. #3 fire stop if your using torches or welding. The floor drains mentioned by someone else are a must for keeping the place clean. I would paint the floor to keep oil stains from soaking in and again keeping it nice.
Good luck on your new build. I agree with the many suggestions that everyone has put down.
Looking forward to the shop build!
Hell yea that’s going to be awesome having your own shop I can’t wait to watch you do everything
A bathroom is always a good ideal in a shop
@Official_Chickanic... hello
I would plan on where your going to have your work benches are going to be for electrical outlets, have a area for your equipment like bench drills , welders, etc. , keep one corner of the garage for air compressor and a shop heater depending on what your using for heat , they have kits you can get to pipe compressed air around the shop , all plastic tubing and fittings,
Good Luck with the new build. Wish you the best.
You're amazing, love your videos!! Thanks for helping all of us save money and do our own repairs!
If you wanna put something in your shop that you will never regret get a 1 or 2 ton Jib Crane very small footprint & super versatile.
I like a company like Stihl that will sell you a part (oversize stud) to correct a flaw in their products. And I like a shop like yours that can spot an opportunity to further improve the product by adding that second stud.
I just had a 40'x60' metal building put up in my back yard, so here's a few ideas:
For resale value I had one of my three roll up doors made 14' high so the largest motor home or even a big rig tractor can fit inside. And of course this requires the roof to be high enough to leave plenty of headspace for your second floor lofts.
I had 6 skylights put in the roof, it's so bright inside that you don't even need to turn the electric lights on in the day.
I had the walls and ceilings insulated.
I had them use 3/4" T&G plywood for the interior walls, this way racks and shelves can be fastened directly to it. And it's bullet proof compared to sheet rock.
I used plenty of overhang on the roof and had 3' concrete side walks run around the entire building. The sidewalks in front of the rollup doors are extra thick to withstand heavy equipment being moved over them. I have a machine shop.
I have three ventilation fans put in the roof and louvered vents placed low in the north wall where they will draw cool air in the summer.
Local code requires me to have a 1 degree slope on the slab towards my rollup doors for drainage. I think this is a good idea in case you ever want to hose off the floor.
I have some sheet rock internal walls for an office and bathroom. I "armored" the base of these with pressure treated 2x6 so something like a floor jack cant be run through the wall.
I had wanted to install gas fired radiant heating in the slab, but I ran out of money. I will use radiant heat lamps hung from the ceiling instead.
I had one window put in every wall so I can see what the heck is going on outside.
Gat a reputable contractor that's worked in your area for a while. You can go look at their other work and talk to their customers. These guys may cost a little more that a fly-by-night, but in my opinion they are well worth it. They hire quality subcontractors that won't cause them problems in the short or long run.
Beware! The general rule is the more space you have, the more stuff you will collect.
I just put up a 40x60. Here are a couple thoughts:
If you run the electric line underground from your house, also put a natural gas line for heat, a water line for a sink to wash up and a cat 6 line for strong internet for your videos. All in separate plastic conduit, but in the same trench.
Put plastic under your concrete to keep moisture from come coming up through it.
Go at least 5" of concrete and make sure you put some floor drains in where you might be washing vehicles/ tractors/ equipment, ect.
2 foot eaves sounds like a lot, but they help keep water away from the foundation.
Depending on terrain, put 4" corrugated drain tiles around the outside to drain water away.
Put a plastic barrier, such as double bubble, down before the steel roof goes on, to stop condensation from making a rain forest inside your building
Wire enough outlets, and have multiple circuits for them.
The more LED lights, the better.
Run airline around the shop using 1/2" pex. With crimped ends (no sharkbites) it will hold 1000 psi, which your never coming close to that. The fittings, connectors and clamps are Much cheaper on Amazon.
A 10' wide overhead door sounds big, until you pull your truck in and the mirrors almost hit, go 12' if you can.
good luck
Can't wait for the new shop. I bet it will be sweet
Thanks, another brilliant educational video, Cheers
great lighting and ventilation.
Painted bright interior and lots of lighting, congratulations also, well deserved.
I was going to recommend in floor heating as well.
Consider at least one 14 ft high door so you can drive a semi truck or farm equipment inside if you want to add to your flexibility on what you can work on. Even if you never plan on working on that type of equipment, it will be a great selling point and may bring more buyers your way if you ever sell your property.
If you are going with concrete walls part way up below the metal sides, add a piece of PVC pipe/pipes between the concrete forms horizontally where your power, landline phone, gas line and internet cables will enter the building if they are going to enter lower near ground level. That way, after the forms are removed, you won't have to jackhammer a hole through the foundation to run the cables through. It saves a bunch of work later.
Consider a 200 amp service for power.
Saw the title of the video and thought "Great...just what I need". Probably the same procedure, but the screws I stripped were holding the coil to the chainsaw. Yeah, I admit, I stupidly used my Milwaukee to put the screws in---big mistake--a homeowner's model 025. It's when I learned about the difference between homeowner's stuff and commercial stuff. The homeowner's uses plastic, the commercial stuff metal.
It's still running fine, but you should have seen the procedure's I used during my learning curve (why do I keep misspelling that word--it's not curse, it curve, sure sounds like an appropriate mistake).
As usual, another great video!
Summit is a GREAT Company. Congrats on the new shop.
About the shop: make sure you have all your rough-ins (electric and plumbing) sorted out before you start erecting the structure.
Don’t forget about insulation.
excellent advice
Yes, insulation absolutely.
That is awesome!
One more comment regarding spark plug threads. I agree that the helicoil threads sometimes don't work well. Another option is a kit made to ream out the 14mm hole to 18mm and re-thread it. I don't know how it works on chain saws, maybe there isn't enough casting for it? It does work on cast iron auto heads. There are also some solid inserts, but then again, maybe the casting is too thin. I would be tempted to heliarc the hole closed and mill a new seat and threads just as an experiment.
I would recommend insulation for the walls and ceiling. Makes it easier heat and cool. It's amazing how much a concrete floor helps to maintain a consistent temperature. The bus storage building where I work is insulated, and even when it dips down to -20, it still stays above freezing inside with the doors closed. Also it's much cooler inside there in the summer. Good luck!
Agree with poster below to go with 4000-4500 psi concrete and roll up door so you can work on your vehicle in the shop as well. 20A or more 240v circuits/outlets for welding/air compressor.
In a shop you can never have enough: electrical outlets, light, ventilation.
Thank you for your informative videos they have taught me sooo much and has save me a lot of frustration and money. Sometimes it is something so simple to fix the problem and you nail it. Cheers from Aussie
power vent fans, avoid sky lights due to possible leaking in the future. windows double hung
so you are able to add window A/C if you do not want a large structure unit. have an office set up
even just for quiet area for ordering parts and phone calls. floor drains so water has a place to go
gutters and down spout with drainage pipe away from building. concert floors, find out building
codes for your structure, electrical codes, insulation heavy if possible ( keep heat out in summer,
keep cold out in winter less costs to control the interior environment.) I helped my friend add two
steel buildings to his original structure for his fine wood working business. good luck happy building.
In the 35 yrs. that I've framed custom homes I've learned a few things and at this point your slab is # 1 concern , It has to be square ! Once the form is set you can check it yourself and check to make sure all the measurements are correct. If your not sure how watch some videos on new construction and you'll see how easy but necessary it is to do.
I agree with the slab. It will cost about if not more than the building. Get the slab people that have made slabs for the building company and talk with them or ideas. Do not install any sky lights. I started to and the company said they would but they and other companies have had trouble with them after a number of years.
Do a layout of what you want and where it will go on the blueprints (tool cabinets work bench outlets air compressor etc) 2 post lift and a tall door for vehicles.
Very smart and beautiful
I would put 220V at least in all four corners. That way you can move your heavy draw equipment if you decide to change the shop around at a later date. You can never have too many 120V outlets. If you think you might insulate at some date... do it NOW! Much easier and cheaper to insulate when you don't have it full of equipment and projects. I concur with the earlier post about floor drains. I had them in my garage; loved them.
Car hoists have become affordable. The only way to lift newer vehicles. Nearby golf course has one with an adapter that lifts their big mowers. Even if a hoist might be way in the future, plan where it would be and reinforce the concrete. Twelve foot ceiling isn't high enough. Laundry tub for sink. Serious floor drain. Office space. Loading dock. Ventilation. Think in terms of building material, 32 x 48 vs 30 x 50. Somebody suggested a painted outline. Park some actual vehicles & machinery in it. I have a single 16 x 10 ft door on the gable end so snow doesn't pile up there. I enjoy your channel.
Another note.... If you'll be installing a metal roof, look and what the company is offering for fastening systems. If they offer a system that doesn't use exposed fasteners (typically called "standing seam") go with that one. It may cost a little extra but you'll eliminate a lot of aggravation down the road. And...they look nicer.
Screws in the roof = holes in your roof = leaks...
Thanks great job
Thanks for the video Bre, I have this same model no problems at all. Take care of yourself and family ❤️💗💗.
A dansil in distress . No I learned some really cool tricks today thanks. I'm still working outside.