Rebuild Water Shut Off Valve
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- čas přidán 1. 05. 2017
- Water shut off valves can be repaired by replacing the rubber washers, the bibb screws and replacing the repacking material under the bonnet / packing nut. Corrosion can also be removed from a stop valve.
If a stop valve, globe valve, angle valve or shut off valve is in a location that is hard to access or replacing multiple valves with ball valves is too expensive, these valve can be refurbished.
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Link to other Know How Now videos about water valves: czcams.com/play/PLvce66kQTjJRuwqmH0S5Shjfj5HeRdbMr.html
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I recently bought a 70 yo home. It's in great shape overall, but still has its galvanized plumbing, and has several gate valves that are in unfortunate places throughout the home; they're upside down or have had walls/ceilings built around them. And, of course, the valves were not opened and shut a few times a year to maintain their integrity.
These videos saved me from using a sawzall to remove a few myself, which probably would have lead to thousands of dollars in professional plumbing to repair what I tried to fix.
Thank you so much for creating and posting videos that take things slowly and are clear and easy to follow!!
You are welcome. It's my pleasure to help. Thanks for commenting, I enjoy hearing from people who watch the videos.
You're mastery of terminology is impressive.
All these years, I had no idea this could be done. Thank you for your very thorough video and great tips!!!!
You are welcome, Michele. Thanks for the compliments. Please consider supporting the channel and subscribe. It's free and it will allow me to add more videos.
Great video on how to possibly save your current shut off valve.
I just recently had a problem where my shutoff valve started leaking after I turned off the water to replace a dripping bathtub faucet. My shut-off valve took a replaceable cartridge similar to those in sinks or bathtubs, so I just bought a new cartridge & installed it in the valve body that was soldered in the copper pipe. I was able to shutoff the water at the main valve & take the cartridge in to the hardware store to find the exact replacement cartridge, (why my valves being at least 50 years old, I was happy the cartridge was still available!).
I was going to get four 1/4 turn ball valve installed to replace all my existing shut-off valves but the plumber quoted $475 to do that (seemed expensive), so the cartridge was a much cheaper solution at about $11.00.
You saved us a lot of hassle..
Thank you 🙏🏻for such a clear, detailed and very useful instructional video.. you are awesome 👏🏻
Thanks for this video! I was getting ready to replace the whole valve, but following your instructions I was able to get it working again.
You are welcome, Kenneth. Congratulations on getting the valve working again.
Thank You for this video. I purchased everything you recommended and changed all of my shut off valves
You are welcome, John. Way to go on fixing the shut off valves.
Great video! Very helpful for the homeowner of an old home!
Thank you for taking the time to create such a detailed description of the anatomy of these types of valves. After some "out of this world" plumber fees I decided that It's time to learn a little plumbing and I stumbled upon this amazing video... I already fixed one leaky valve and tomorrow will tackle another one....thank you again....
You are welcome Beatriz. It's always great to hear that the video was helpful.
One more thing, I think I tell you in the video, if you have to turn the packing nut while the valve is in the valve body, insure that the valve is on the open position while turning the packing nut, you can damage the valve stem if you have the valve closed and crank down on the packing nut.
Please support the channel and subscribe, it's free... and it will allow me to continue to make more videos. You can find other plumbing videos at the channel.
Very easy to understand video. You are a pro at explaining things so they are easy to understand. Thanks.
You are welcome, Scott.
You do some of the best instructional videos I've seen. Thank you.
You are welcome, Michael. Thank you for the compliment. I am always trying to improve the quality of the videos.
Great video. Exactly what I needed to see.
In an impromptu repair at our vacation home, before I ever read or saw any "how to" repair tips, I came up with pretty much the same thing. Now that I have read and seen a bit, I can describe what went on. Our valves were Globe Type Shut Off Valves with Threaded Unions (female) instead of Screw In (male) stem assemblies. The remnants of the old union washer would not match anything in the big box store, and I too went to the garden hose washers and used one similar to yours, also orange. I just guestimated from recollection of my garden hose repairs. However, the fit was about 1/16 to 1/32 shy of full circumference. After I tried it, it seemed to sweat a bit. So, I switched it out to a garden hose sized o-ring that fit very snugly to the outer circumference of the union. Looks ok for now, but I will watch it. I also swapped out the 1/2 inch 3/4" O.D. and it holds. However, under the packing nut, when I disassembled, fell some black deposits that might have been the remnants of the packing material. I did not know that at the time and just reassembled with nothing. It seems to sweat from there now. But, unlike your valve, there was no washer on the stem going into the union. Is this a problem ? I could just have a different mfr valve. Yours seemed to use both, a washer and the packing material under the packing nut. Should I be ok if I just use the packing thread under the nut ? I cleaned everything else and it moves nice and freely. Thanks ahead for any help. MD
Sorry it took me a couple of days to reply, I had a couple of high priority tasks that need to get done. Thanks for taking the time to write the very detailed description. That's a good idea to use an O Ring. You can buy flat pieces of rubber and cut out a washer, though I think it would be difficult and tedious. I've read that at one time leather was used for washers.
If the material under the packing nut is gone (likely the black remnants), you can just use teflon rope. It's likely that the bigger diameter rope will be the best fit. I've used just teflon rope and had success. It does pack down a bit, any you may have to add another piece after you squash it down. It requires a little perseverance and patience. That's kind of odd that there is no washer on the stem union. Maybe you could arrange a wrap of telfon rope to create a seal?
Very very clear instruction. Awesome.
Great video. Exactly the info I needed and perfectly presented. Thank you!
You are welcome, Ryan!
Great detailed steps are shown, she is excellent.
Very helpful video...thanks!
I feel very proud of anyone who makes useful videos. I feel even more proud of women who do it. But i cannot help wishing nobody had to deal with the cluncky medieval systems we still deal with in 21st century? Why cant we manufacture better products?
Excellent details in your videos! Thank you for sharing and saving me a ship load of $$$$!
You are welcome, it always makes may day to hear the videos has been helpful.
Very informative video. Well done!
Thanks for the compliment, Kyle. Happy New Year! Please consider supporting the channel and subscribe.... it's free and it will allow me to continue to add more videos.
great video, love how you used the goya beans can as part of your tool set...🙂
Super video, well explained!
Thank you for sharing this with people it really helps
You are welcome, Allen. It's nice to hear the video has been helpful. Have a great day.
Thank you for your precious instructions.
You are welcome, it's my pleasure to help.
Beautiful demonstration. Thank you.
You are welcome.
This is a very good video!
Great Content and Clarity!
Thanks for the compliment. I do my best to make quality videos.
Great, informative video! Thanks!
You are welcome, Thomas. As many others have done, please consider supporting the channel and subscribe. It's free.
Thee tutorial was superb. Thank you!
You are welcome, John!
Very useful, covering all the steps accurately. Thank you.
You are welcome.
Can you plz help I couldn’t find the brass screw at the home store
this was awesome. Thanks a ton - very lucid clear expln- bravo
You are welcome, Rajanee. Thanks for taking the time to comment and the compliment.
Great video! I learned a lot today. Thanks for sharing!
You are welcome, Andrew. It's my pleasure to share.
great video, explanation and info. keep it up!
Thanks for compliment, it's good to know that people are finding the content helpful.
Thank you. A talented communicator.
You are welcome, it's my pleasure to help.
Wow. Talk about identical. Everything I am facing you have conquered. What a good feeling I have moving forward now. Thank you. 😊 OH, you sound just like Sue at 1A Auto. Have a great rest of your day.
Best wishes for your valve repair/rehab, Michelle. I hope you have a great day too.
Worked great for me. Thanks for sharing
You are welcome.
Great videos! Super helpful
Thanks for watching the videos and for the compliments.
I really like the rebuild video, having a devil of a time finding a packing nut, mine was cracked.
That can be tough, no standards. If you have an identical one someplace else and that valve has easy access to solder a new one in, replace that one and steal the packing nut.
@@Know-How-Now Thanks I figured it out, was 1/2 Compression Nut - 41225 and I used a #22 bonnet packing and new handle, the valves at the store all looked to have smaller packing nuts, I guess the older valves sometimes have these larger 1/2" compression nuts, all good!
Good to hear you found replacement parts. I our throw away society mentality and try to fix things. It's often worth the effort because the old stuff is usually better quality.
Great Video! I'm to try the repair on my leaking boiler valve.
absolutely great for a woman to quickly find an answer to a plumbing question and save a load of dollars. Thanks!
You are welcome!
Nice job as always.
Thanks Tony.
Thank you so much video is very detailed right now money is bad right now with the virus going on and unemployment not paying a dime for weeks and forced to fix and learn because I have a leak and dont have money for a plumer. Thanks for taking your time and posting your helping more than you know
You are welcome. I'm sorry that you are having some tough times. I hope that as we learn more about COVID we learn to adapt and things improve for everyone. It's my pleasure to help.
Thanks again!
You are welcome, good luck with the repair.
great video thanks
You are welcome.
I like your style. I have a leaky valve and bought Teflon rope. Going to try it tomorrow. Subbed due to your simple to the point style.
Thanks for the compliment and for subscribing. I do my best to make quality videos that don't waste your time.
@@Know-How-Now I was going to say, "Thank you!" for not trying to be funny or cute.
Hi Brendan.
Where were able to find packing rope?
good content. good instructions. thank you.
You are welcome.
Your videos are SO clear and helpful!
Thanks for the compliment, Samuel. I do my best to make quality videos.
Thanks for info video !📐🔧😃👍
You are welcome!
Great information, very informative and well organized. You might suggest the use of valve grease on all threads. I have found it very useful.
Thanks for the compliment.
Good suggestion, I had one valve that had a slightly bent stem. I put a little silicone grease on the stem because it was a little difficult to turn. For anyone reading this, you can find silicone grease in the plumbing department. I've seen a lot of debate about this..... some greases are not good for rubber, so to be safe buy the silicone grease for plumbing.
Thanks for the vid
You are welcome, thor.
Excellent! Jodie Foster DYI does it again!
Thanks for watching the videos!
Thank you for this! I will be trying this out on my valve that controls the outside water spigot on the front of my house. The house is about 80 years old, and I can't tell how old the valve is, but it had a dedicated pair of vise grips serving as the handle for the valve and hadn't been turned on in at least 10 years, if not longer.
The valve in the video was about 65 years old and was the shut off for a spigot in the garage. It apparently had not been turned for many years and was stuck. Good luck with yours.
@@Know-How-Now Thank you. I'm a bit flummoxed as mine has no visible packing nut. I will be attempting this repair later this week.
Seems to me I've seen that exact thing, if so, you owe thanks to Larry, Moe, and Curly for that assemblage.
That was great!
Thanks for the compliment, Ted!
Hit bib screw with sharp hammer, make sure center handle shaft / screw is on a solid surface.
Thanks for the very helpful video! After watching this and several other clips on CZcams, I wonder if it's possible to buy a whole new shutoff valve assembly and change the stem assembly (not changing the whole casing by cutting pipes), if I can find the same one or compatible one. I meant like changing Symmons shower valve stem assembly. Is there any issue with that? I'm kinda worried about my capability of if I can clean/buy matching parts (especially the bolt on the valve is really screwed)/re-build again but it might be easier to just buy the whole same thing and change the chunk. I don't know if I make sense but would appreciate your comment.
I'm not familiar with Symmons shower valves, however, it looks like you can buy parts for them. Many faucets have a lifetime warranty for the original owner. I have a Price Pfister shower valve and am the original owner. Without much trouble they have sent me free parts(worth at least $100) to repair the valve. I have a video for that repair, though I doubt it will help you. My video czcams.com/video/AoYqsdWODS0/video.html Parts for Symmons: www.symmons.com/temptrol/parts/
What size flat washer for 1/2 pipe
Thanks for the Videos !! I’m thinking I should just replace the old twist stop valve (?) with a ball valve on my main ? It’s 25 plus years old and is leaking when turned off ?
Because it's not easy to change the washer on my main shut off valve (I have to pay the water company and upfront fee to close the curb stop - I am not allowed to do this and they have a rare size tool to turn the stop) that's what I did. The rest of the valves in the house, I just change the washer. Here is a link to a playlist about valves, there is a video about preparing to change the main shut off valve. czcams.com/play/PLvce66kQTjJRuwqmH0S5Shjfj5HeRdbMr.html
Nice,
Any chance you have a video on replacing a leaking supply line attachment point to a dishwasher? Need detail on whether to use Teflon tape or not as well as Plummer’s putty or not when replacing cap and ferrule. Lots of dis-information out there
Hi Ted, I do not have a video on compression fittings. Don't reuse a ferrule or overtighten. You may want to look at this thread: www.ridgidforum.com/forum/mechanical-trades/ask-the-plumbing-experts/15137-compression-fitting-on-dishwasher-still-leaking
on the packing nut you should run the nut 3 times to keep packing in the Teflon rope
Muriatic acid does a good job at removing crap and corrosion. Just lest it sit for 20 minutes and then washed it really good.
Thee thanks you!
You are welcome! Please consider supporting the channel and subscribe, it's free and it will allow me to continue to add more videos.
Clear and uncomplicated with side issues.
Thanks for commenting, Frank.
If not WD40, what oil to use, so that the tough valve turns..?
FYI if you use vinegar that is hot it is more intense cleaner
Question, I am replacing tub/shower type Price Pfister stem valves that are in my garage for the washing machine. Which packing material should be used, the teflon type or the graphite type? Thanks much! Your videos are very helpful and provide lots of tips that I did not see in the many other videos that I have watched.
I'd go for the teflon type packing. Best wishes for the repair.
Nice Job! I do have a question. For this valve, they actually sell a packing bonnet washer that fits this online (our local sell everything old hardware store only had the next size up), so is that worth buying this? Which would work better, the packing material or the bonnet washer?
Thanks, Mike
The correct size bonnet washer is the best choice, though the packing material will do the job.
What type of wrench do you suggest? I have a very limited tool supply.
An adjustable wrench, channel locks and a pipe wrench a 3 basic tools that you'll find helpful for any home plumbing repairs on non plastic plumbing work.
Great video! Would it be possible to swap in a new stem assembly from another new valve? Are they typically universal as long as it's the same size or are they often manufacture specific?
The valves are not universal, if you can find an identical valve, you can swap the stems. If the valve with the problem is in a difficult to replace/access location, look for an identical valve in your house (in an east to replace location) and swap the stems. Replace the one in the easy to replace location.
@@Know-How-Now thanks so much
You are welcome.
May i ask why you said not to damage the brass? Is there a reason for that? Or just for asthetics? Thanks
I say that because the metal is soft. You don't want to mar the "seat", that's the area where the rubber washer rests and makes a seal. If you scratch that up the valve may not fully seal when closed.
Know How Now great, thanks for clearing that up!
What’s the difference between a water valve and a brass gate valve?
I'm not clear on your question. The valves in the video are compression valves. A gate valve has a metal piece that moves perpendicular to the pipe as you turn the handle. When closed the metal piece blocks the flow of water.
Because people had nothing better to do back then - these were made and designed to be taken apart yearly and greased. Yearly. Mine are from 1949 and they are dripping too. It's cheaper to just rebuild these valves and not have them cut out and replaced. Most of these have not been turned in 50yr.
Great video. I broke the head off the screw holding the washer in place, and the washer is shot also. How can I get the screw out? I doubt I can find another entire valve that would match mine, which is about 80 years old?
I have a video for that problem: czcams.com/video/fdGgog4q_NA/video.html
@@Know-How-Now Thanks for sharing this video However, on my valve that head snapped off when I tried to unscrew it, and all that is left is he threaded part, and there is nothting sticking out of the thread 'hole', that I coluld grab with vice grips.
Maybe an easy out will work. www.harborfreight.com/screw-extractor-and-left-hand-drill-bit-combo-set-10-piece-61981.html?campaignid=12126402660&adsetid=118355023113&product=61981&store=162&gclid=CjwKCAjwwL6aBhBlEiwADycBIKMuLkhW4iAQVch0KWVosrVc8I3F5Jue-yCYr-d3zI5qp6aC4fi4NxoC2j8QAvD_BwE
@@Know-How-Now Yes. Maybe. Looks like the smallest drill bit in that set is 3/16" . Do you know what size screw is typically used to hold valve washers in place?
I don't know the size, the link was just to show what an easy out is thinking you may not be familiar with them. The screw should be brass, unless someone used something else for a previous repair - brass is soft metal and easy to drill. The replacement screws I have found are brass with a coating that gives an appearance of steel. Buy a packet of replacement screws and line up a bit with the shaft of the screw to determine the bit size. If you have a good Ace Hardware store I find they often carry more plumbing supplies than Home Depot/Lowes.
how do u do all the process when the valve is hanging in some tough places and not able to remove 👎👎
How do you replace a valve where it is hard to solder a new one in place? I bet removing the stem is easier.
You don't say what you do when said valve is still on the pipe...can it be repaired in place...and how?
Maybe you missed it, in the beginning of the video, I mentioned that I have other videos on valve repair & maintenance. I'll put a link to the playlist below. For most repairs you need to remove the stem, which is shown in another video. czcams.com/play/PLvce66kQTjJRuwqmH0S5Shjfj5HeRdbMr.html
Wow, lots of steps. Rebuild or can the stem be purchased in a kit a replaced?
There isn't any standardization. I don't know of any rebuild kits.
A lot of people like to replace these valves with a ball valve. If you don't have a high level of plumbing skills or the valve is not a place with friendly access, rebuilding one may be the better option.
I had two identical valves, one was in a spot that would have been hard to access and the other was easily replaced by soldering a new ball valve in place. I replaced the easy access valve, rebuilt it on the bench, then put it into the hard to access valve body.
Know How Now Thanks! Ok, I’ll get parts, and get to work on some rebuilds (following your great steps)
Know How Now Thanks! Ok, I’ll get parts, and get to work on some rebuilds (following your great steps)
I just left the old valve alone and put in a ball valve upstream.If you had seen where the old valve was you would know why i didn’t want to touch it.
It's all fun and games until the screw snaps in two while you try to remove it
I presume you are talking about the bib screw. I have a video showing how to remove the screw. If that doesn't work, you might be able to very carefully drill it out with a small drill bit. Here's a link: czcams.com/video/fdGgog4q_NA/video.htmlsi=_WtlEkUP6j2r2YV9
Are the really old valves the ones with rope seals? That's like on an inboard boat driveshaft. Like your accent, Pennsylvania? Maryland? I'm not asking for you to reply to that for obvious reasons:) Never heard of penetrating oil called oil penetrant?
Southeast PA, is often identified as a Philly accent. We drink wadder here. lol!
Can you just buy the valve stem and screw the new one in the old housing ?
Or buy a new valve and remove the valve stem and screw it in the old one ???
If you can find a matching valve, yes. There are no standards.
My valve is threaded differently: the valve body has the male threads. There was a very old washer, super thin and more like a gasket. It broke. Replacement from hardware store must not have been an exact fit because I have a very slow leak there. Not sure how to proceed or what I should be looking for in a washer/gasket.
Unfortunately valves do not have a standard. If you have a good local plumbing supply house you might try there for parts. If the valve is in an easy to replace location then putting a new one in would be the path of least resistance.
@@Know-How-Now thanks! Unfortunately it's a gnarly mess under that sink. Taking it to a plumbing supply house sounds like a good bet. Our local one caters primarily to tradesmen but they might be willing to help me out.
You can also buy flat stock pieces of gasket material. It would be time consuming, but you could make your own.
@@Know-How-Now I'm also toying with the idea of trying pipe dope on the threads. There isn't enough thread there for Teflon tape, but maybe pipe dope would be enough to seal the joint. Not sure; I've only used it on radiator vents, where there is no pressure to speak of.
Better install a new valve lest drama and time
You chose this video, watched it and took time to comment because....?
Isn't it cheaper and easier to buy a new one?
A new valve isn't too expensive, though if you can't install it yourself, the hourly rate for a plumber likely won't be cheap.
@@Know-How-Now but guys who are willing to fix it should be handy men enough to learn to solder the pipes, I am guessing. I was working on my plumbing last week and discovered Shark Bite connectors. I think they are great, just cut and push it in. They have it at Home Depot and all different kinds, including valves. I don't know if you want to put them inside walls but it's great for open areas and small projects.
A gate valve is 8 bucks, to rebuild a valve costs less then a dollar. I’ll take the rebuild. Very wasteful to buy new valves when all you have to replace is the rubber.
@@ejohnst4 One doesn't need an auto engineer to change a flat tire and one doesn't need a plumber to solder copper pipes.
It would be great if you knew the proper names of pieces...
Thanks for commenting, Tedd. Which parts are misnamed?
Good job on the repair and good job on the video. Excellent tutorial mentioning some of the fine details likely to be overlooked by novices. Ted's comment prompted me to do a second viewing and I suppose I'm guilty of his charges also. I guess I can feel some redemption, as can you, in that my valve repairs (similar aged valves) are holding. To remove the stuck handle without special tools: replace the handle retaining screw and back it off slightly; support the valve by the handle between 2 pieces of wood; tap the screw gently.
Good video, except I don't think that You tried very hard to remove the handle from the Stem, because it should have come off by simply tapping it off, once the screw was removed.
👍🫶
Ugh my valve handle won’t come free either wtf!
Dear KHN
Please marry me now. Or later. Your choice.
remove THEE ! screw, THEE! handle is stuck, remove THEE ! washer,
don't damage THEE ! brass. wrong procedure !
Nice video. I've rebuilt a few of these in my day. Currently I've got pretty much the identical valve shown in this video... but I can't get the stem out of the body. And it is also in a place that would be very very difficult to get to if I screw it up and have to replace it. The current issue is that it won't seal 100% so I'm getting a tiny bit of water seeping through it... and it is a shutoff to an outside hose bib... and I live in the mountains--so it freezes. And I keep having to replace bits on pieces on the outside of the house because I can't get it to fully shut off on the inside.
Any tips on getting a stuck stem out?
What is stopping you from removing the stem? You can't get the bonnet nut loose?
This video made me sub. Great details and always on subject with educational nuances. 🤌
Welcome to Know How Now. I do my best to respect your time with good quality videos. Thanks for taking the time to comment and for subscribing.