How To Fix A Main Water Shutoff Valve Leak
Vložit
- čas přidán 28. 05. 2024
- Recommended Old Work Box (Different than used in the video): amzn.to/2W0rDfY
I have ran across this issue on a number of my rental properties and renovation project where the main water shutoff will not stop leaking water. This usually happens on a "globe" style water shutoff valve. I will walk you through 3 different fixes which will start easy and progress in complexity. Time stamps for each step are listed below along with the links to the parts used.
Chapters
0:00 Introduction
0:52 Step 1: Tighten the Packing Nut
1:51 Step 2: Adding New Teflon Packing Cord
8:43 Step 3: Disassembly and New Flat Washer
13:57 Closing Remarks and Additional Points
Parts Used
Teflon Packing Cord: amzn.to/2Yg8OXg
1/2 (3/4" OD) Flat Washer: amzn.to/2Ydv6J5
Tools Every Weekend Warrior Needs
Makita Corless Drill Combo Kit: amzn.to/2Jsw78j
Dewalt Drill Bit Set: amzn.to/2w0xAA4
Dewalt Screwdriver Bit Set: amzn.to/2UqTvK9
Craftsman Screwdriver Set: amzn.to/3bAsNEG
Eklind Allen Wrench Set: amzn.to/2wKDu8M
Pliers (4-Piece Set): amzn.to/2JlYUM7
Stanley Utility Knife: amzn.to/2Us2pqG
Stanley Tape Measure: amzn.to/2WPzr5K
Studbuddy Stud Finder: amzn.to/38MdzfV
Johnson Torpedo Level: amzn.to/3dzx5Ot
Stanley Hammer: amzn.to/39tudPL
Buck Bros Wood Chisel Set: amzn.to/2QTebYO
Klein Voltage Tester: amzn.to/2XMa1I2
Klein Outlet Tester: amzn.to/39GyO33
Wire Strippers: amzn.to/2NHHKuS
Little Giant Ladder: amzn.to/2UrFmfG
DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission. - Jak na to + styl
Video showing swapping this valve out for a ball valve with press fittings. czcams.com/video/U2CEQHM06cQ/video.html
That would be the way to go if you have the water main at the curb off. Crazy to work with that 100 year old valve.
Can't you use a good thread sealant instead of teflon packing cord?
Saw the title and came here to see why a ball valve wasn't the suggested fix. Gate valves aren't even up to code anymore in a lot of areas due to this problem. They work best when used regularly, while a ball valve doesn't care much if you leave it open or closed for most of its life. The exception is those smaller 1/4 turn valves on toilets, sinks, and other water supplies. Those smaller ball valves have weak stems and are small enough that scale becomes a much greater problem. The stems break or the scale keeps them from closing all the way if you don't use them every now and then with hard water supplies. I always make sure I have a spare 1/4 turn valve whenever I need to close those smaller valves.
M
Mp
I am baffled by the majority of the comments. He obviously made this video for the vast amount of people who have no plumbing skills or tools and are too flat broke to afford a professional. This is a fantastic detailed affordable solutions help video for all of us who don't currently have other choices. Thanks.
💯👍
Right on brother. On top of the things you mentioned, I have a 3-year-old at the house that I'm minding while the wife is at a meeting. I needed a quick and dirty way to fix this and this did exactly that.
Baffled that he's suggesting to do something while the water may be on, on the main shut off? The last thing a poor person wants is an unexpected flood that requires a call to the city to resolve. If any shutoff is deserving of an exorbitant price plumbers charge, it's this one.
Well if you don't have a $50 for tools and parts or $150 for a plumber you shouldn't messing with plumbing opening a can of worms there. 8x out of 10 if you have a problem with a leaky valve they will always leak until replaced.
Well he forgot the most important point. NEVER attempt this repair unless the water has been turned off.
I had a plumber look at my water shutoff cause it wouldn't shut off water all the way, and he said I had to replace the valve and completely change out my copper pipe cause he would have to cut out the valve. And now I know, all it needs is the valve cleaned and replace the gasket. This is why it sucks being a woman , guys trying to rip me off . As a woman home owner, I have to be Ms Fixit, so these self help videos are awesome so learn from. Thanks for posting!
He is a teacher,he is trying to give us many options to get the job done and you choose what is best for you .
Your videos save me a lot of money.
Thanks for the feedback and support 👍
This is the real reason I respect and like your videos…they feel real/authentic, because you allow for uninterrupted situations and mistakes to happen. Does not feel or appear scripted like so many others. This allows my ability to trust and believe in what your education provides. Thank you & cheers
AI is not our friend
Tip from a 30+ yr. Plumber: When opening a globe/gate any type multi-line valve that stays on for long periods of time, open all the way, then back off about 1/2 a turn. Helps to keep mineral build-up from between internal parts by giving more space between surfaces, preventing seizing or breaking when you have to shut it off.
Good stuff, thanks for the help Gary 👍
Interesting fact. I always do this because I never like having any type of valve like this all the way open...not because of the build up, but because I did not want it to get stuck open. I do this on everything. Good to know.
27 years commercial plumbing experience here and i concur with Gary.
Appreciate the tip. When I was in engineering school decades ago one of the professors told us that gate valve should be all the way open or all the way closed. But I learned a long time ago that the guys in the field have more reliable advice than the academics.
@@snakedike the gate can cause cavitation which wears out the gate making it not able to make a complete seal. That's why they're not meant to be metering or regulating valves. However, over time, the seat fills up with so much crap that it doesn't make a full seal anyway no matter what. The globe valve is actually designed for metering... Or rather, metering was one of the functions included in the design of the globe valve.
Dude you’re a life saver. I was about five minutes away from calling a 24hr plumber and this video helped me fix the leak. Thank you, thank you, thank you. You’re the man. 👍
I woke up to a flooded kitchen this morning. Came home from work this evening and found your video and method #1 solved my leak problem for now! Thank you for sharing!
Step 1 seems to have resolved my value leak. This saved me from calling a plumber. Thank you!
I’ve done this repair several times in my 50 year old house. A couple of times I did the full three step repair the way you did, then I got smarter. I cutout the original shutoff valves and replaced them with ball valves. They are about $10 but they won’t leak and they can completely shut off the water with just a quarter turn. When the handle is inline with the pipe it’s full on. When the handle is at 90 degrees to the line then it is fully off. The ball valve is the way to go! 👍🏻👍🏻
Great video!
Thanks Michael, completely agree and actually will be swapping this valve out to a ball valve later this week when I install the water heater. So much better!
@@EverydayHomeRepairs can you do a video on the replacement as well if you do it?
@@dakotbeastj For Sure!
@@pauledwards3325
I did not. I will look into it.
Thanks
On the new ball valves certain brands have a packing nut that will leak you just have to tighten it usually no further problem
Quick tip of the day for you .
Take two wrenches 1 on body 2nd on nut and they should be slightly offset to eachother. Now wrapping hand around both squeeze together . More powerful and no strain on pipes . Happy plumbing and it works for tightening as well .
Martin Miller, Yes exactly the best way to slacken a tight nut, then when the nut does suddenly slacken there is no sudden movement to what ever the nut is attached to.
That's a great trip for loosening period
don't squeeze together!
one is a vise and should be held stationary, the one holding the valve body, or pipe assembly. the other hand supplies proper torqueage
Perfect. Just needed step 2. Saved a bunch of money. Box wrench 3/4”, flat head screw driver and channel locks were all I needed. Purchased graphite Teflon rope seal at Lowe’s. Did both valves and replaced the washer hoses while I was at it. Hardest part was removing the old Teflon from the valve cap (also used an ice pick for that). Took maybe a hour. Valve was installed 40 years ago when house was built. Good as new now!! Thanks!
I’m a complete novice at plumbing. This video saved me. Thank you and Thank God for CZcams.
Here to help!
He was showing how to stop the leak on a globe valve ! This good to know. Not everyone can afford to call a plumber and switch out to a ball valve.
🤔🤔You no need to be a plumber to to put a new valve!!👍👍
Agreed. Maintenance every 60 years hardly warrants a replacement with a ball valve.
@@raulgutierrez5920 do you have a video to show us how?
@@Susan70003 video for what?Are you a!!👶🧠
@@raulgutierrez5920 There would be pipe cutting involved! A new flat washer is far simpler.
As a landlord and “reluctant” handy woman I find myself consuming a lot of these types of videos. Yours are on my top list and I think I have watched all your videos , even ones that I don’t need, and I always get something useful. Thank you for taking the time to film and edit these videos. In my hometown there is a shortage of handymen and the ones that are available make you wait all day for them to show up and they are very very expensive.
Hey Beatriz, thanks so much for your comment and you are exactly the viewer I envision when making these videos so it is great to hear you are finding the videos useful. Best of luck on the rentals and we will keep the videos coming 👍
Average is 86 dollars an hour.. Nation wide on the web..also on web is cost in your area zip code..
Hi Beatriz, may I ask what state do you live in that handymen are scarce? I am looking to move from a big city and being a handyman myself, I am interested in knowing what states are in need. Thanks so much.
@@allanguzman2025
I wanna know myself.
I'm abandoning California just like anyone else with common sense.
And I'll never look back.
So you wanted a plumber to turn up instantly? Ha! Same day service is pretty good...isn't it?
If you’re using a wrench to turn any thing on a valve, you should have another wrench or Vice grip to prevent all that torque transferring to the pipe which could create a leak at another joint or fitting.
Before opening a main valve you should also open at least one domestic tap.
!!
Your right about this. You need to oppose the other wrench.
🎯🎯🎯 back-up wrench
Yes. That is a basic rule. I had two goofballs installing a new clothes washer and one of them broke the cpvc connection because he didn't stabilize it with another wrench. Not surprisingly he said "Oh this has hsppened before." Yeah because he keeps making the same mistake. Then he blamed the break on corrosion!
I called Home Depot where I had purchased the machine, and immediately got a refund of $150. Then I still had to the repair myself.
Watching this video literally just saved me a $800 bill from the first suggested solution. Was on the phone with the plumbers and watched this video and fixed it. Thankfully got to call the back and tell them it’s all good.
Thank you!!!
Finally someone who is not trying to scare us into calling plumber for everything.
Thank you for the tutorial!
exactly! some of these comments are so DUMB and brainless...its exhausting
Your DIY home repair videos are consistently among the very best on the whole "tube". Clear explanations, good video and audio, and 100% relevant. Thanks...
Thanks John, appreciate the kind words and we don't plan on slowing down any time soon 👍
The beauty of this video is that you have educated me to understand what the cause of the leak might be, even if I am not confident enough to go through all the steps to fix it.
I am in a better position now than what I was before I watched it to know at what point I might need to call a plumber.
Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge and the effort to make and post this brilliant video!!
Understanding the possible ways the leaks happen in older plumbing is great to know. Nice complete and detailed video on this globe valve leak.
When adding your packing material, you want to start and stop your cord at almost the same point. This makes it where you have almost exactly the same amount of packing material all the way around the stem. An uneven pack will leak due to the material being thicker on one side versus the other. In your example, you have 3 layers on the back in the first wrap and then added 2 more layers to that side and had 2 and 1 layer in the front half. This means that you had almost twice as much packing material on the back of the valve stem than the front.
Also, using a second wrench / large pliers to hold the base of the valve to keep from torquing it is much preferable to just trying to hold it with your hand. This gives you the ability to hold the torque you are applying against a similar torque as you can hold each at about the same distance from the pivot point.
When applying heat, remember that the joints holding the pipes together are solder joints. They are heat activated and heating from the bottom of the valve body when where you need to apply the heat is at the top has a chance to heat up those connections causing a failure / leak. Wrapping the joints with wet washcloths is another safety step in making sure to not transfer heat to them.
Good stuff, really appreciate all the feedback!
Great information . I am a DIY car guy . I ALWAYS use TWO wrenches . Too many plumbers are SLOBS . I have seen videos where they NEVER deburr pipes after cutting . I even deburr NEW fittings in case of a rough edge . I have seen them use LARGE Channel Lock pliers on small bleeder fittings that are best suited for 1/4" drive or similar . What would a few ADJUSTABLE wrenches cost if you don't own a set ? And after sweating a fitting , let it cool BEFORE wiping it off . First to avoid shocking the hot solder with a wet rag and second to remove excess flux which is acidic and can corrode over time . So much for " Master Plumber " on the truck ! But they demand $ 150.00 or more an hour and grossly inflate the parts prices . They charged a lady in a small store over TRIPLE the cost on a small grease trap !
@@billsmith2212 guess you’re a Master Plumber.
@@billsmith2212 well said
Thanks all you guys well said I'm not a plummer but you all save me money 😉 cause a plumber a expensive. Is
Great help! I had a problem of water dripping from the valve after I shut off the main valve and turned back on. I went Lowes and was told I will need to cut of pipe and replace the whole thing. Then I searched on CZcams and found your video. I used the first easy way. Amazingly, water dripping was stopped immensely. I was so happy it was such an easy fix. Thank you so much for your step by step tutorial video!
I would strongly recommend using two wrenches especially for the novice. Grab valve with second wrench.
agreed, thanks for the feedback Ken.
Yeah, back up all wrench action on pipes... always.
Amen.
I do it that way all the time.
Also I highly recommend to tighten the packing nut with the main water shut off. It can be very risky with the water live under pressure you can cause a major leak/crack the packing nut especially old parts
For those who live out in BFE where it’s a 2-hr drive to the hardware store, self-reliance is a must, and this type of video where I get to have someone else’s pain be my gain, is quite valuable. Thanks for sharing.
Just something that I thought some of you might like. I am a carpenter/handyman and what I have been installing for some customers is a 3 valve system for their main shutoff.
I install 2 ball-valves with a water spigot in between. This way you can use the spigot to drain the house and if you need water while your house is shut off you can still use the spigot. I got the idea years ago when a customer wanted to shut off the house before going on vacation but also wanted to drain the pipes in case the furnace stopped working and didnt want the pipes to freeze
great idea.....seriously. if i may, why not save yourself and the customer the cost of the third valve and purchase a shutoff with side drain? that way you can do as your method with getting cold water at least while house is shut off and the second valve can assist with draining the home along with opening a few taps and flushing the water closets.
Great idea.
For the second and third method, here's a valuable hint: add waterproof grease to the packing cord and to the threads as it will greatly improve seal and make turning the register off and on easier.
You must be a real plumber like me. I had forty years in it and very few plumbers I know use plumbers grease. It makes the world of difference when it comes to leaks, also put some on the packing, helps it compress more . Turn the nut back and fourth till it is packed. Good luck boys don't want to give all the trade secrets.
@@robertcoleman9225 You _must_ give away all the secrets. 😁
When I was helping out a friend when he was working on the plumbing, I was more of a helper watching with interest what he did (my background is in electric installation, not plumbing). He applied a grease in addition to the seal. The best connections are soldering, but if you can't do that, threads with seal and grease is the way to go.
@@robertcoleman9225 65 years = soft white string and silicone grease The plumber was over 60 so that's a long time that's been used to very good effect. = over 100 years no doubt. Steam manganesite impregnated cord......... These young guys need a lesson or three? Many a Gate Valve has o rings as shaft seals anyway? Belmont valves =used to take ages digging out the boss white & hemp , where a new pair of o rings should have been.. dear dear dear dear dear!
@@michaelhall7921what about soft white string and candle wax
Silliness works very well and is also waterproof.
This is exactly what I needed to watch! I discovered the main shutoff valve on my well system was dripping. I was all set to tear the whole valve apart, and had started letting the pressure out of the tank to do so. Then the thought hit me, "Maybe I should consult my trusted advisor CZcams." (I have fixed many things around the house from what I learned from YT videos, the lasted being my dishwasher). The first step shown in this video, simply tightening the nut around the valve stem, worked like a charm, as I was able to give it over half a turn, after which the valve became bone dry. Thank you for saving me from my impulse to go way too invasive, which I'm sure would have caused me massive issues, which I would be dealing with this very minute.
Saved my life! Had a pretty major leak just before going to bed. Tighten the nut and it stopped!
😅 nice!
@1:26
Just want to add, if you're tightening up that old packing nut, PLEASE support the pipe and valve with your other hand! When you're really cranking on those old, corroded nuts you can bend/snap/break your unsupported copper pipe and make things so much worst. Hold the pipe with your other hand to keep the piping and valve stationary while youre torquing on the nut.
It is always satisfying to see a very problematic issue brought back to original functionality.
My dad never really taught me anything growing up because he break stuff like a bull in a china shop, but I had a leak currently in the basement. My cold water to my kitchen was frozen because I didn't let it drip one night and it's been like 3 weeks and luckily no busted pipe but it finally came back on today so I went and turned on the valve and it was leaking for about 20 minutes and I watched your video and I'm like you know what I'm going to tighten that nut. That worked. It's a very old house that I moved into temporarily so I'm Glad I didn't have to sync money into that.
Cool video. Clinton Eastwood said: "A man has got to know his limits" For a water main issue I am calling a professional plumber by doing so I will have less stress & live longer. But I will gladly tinker with installing a replacement faucet where the amount of damage I can do is limited.
Nice. I use that line all the time when I see novices attempting to do something clearly over their heads.....I'm all for learning to do it yourself, but you have to work up to it. "A man's got to know his limitations..."
Just a thought. When removing the bonnet nut especially since it is so hard to get off and hard to secure the pipe just holding it with your hand, I would suggest after you check for leaks, then with all water valves shut off in the house to go to the meter and make sure it's not moving, just in case that cranking on the pipe jarred something loose or caused a leak behind the wall. Great repair video you made here !
Thanks so much for this video, Scott. I was down in my crawlspace looking at some pipe work I did a few weeks ago to make sure nothing was leaking and when I shined my flashlight over to my main water shut off valve I saw it was leaking pretty good. I looked online about how to potentially fix this and came across this video and it was the packing nut that came a little loose when I was opening and closing the valve so it was an easy fix.
I use Baking Soda, lime juice and an old toothbrush to clean sediment deposits in faucets, bibs, and valves like the one you were dealing with. Those ingredients are safer to use than acids. I also use the same ingredients to clean jewelry and the battery terminals and posts (wash with water afterwards) on my vehicles. As a personal preference, I would use ball valves instead of globe or gate valves. Just make sure to remove the handles (to prevent galvanic corrosion) and leave them nearby the valve for when needed.
My 120 year old mains leaked so plumber came said would have to dig up old lead pipe and replace etc... astronomical quote for work, another said couldn't do job because lead to copper piping was difficult. Was telling my mate who's a retired plumber he had a look and did what you did with ptf tape and fixed in 2 minutes. Cost me 1 beer!
Renovating kitchen right now, builder changed pipes back to main outside house and sleeved it and buried it and have all new plastic pipe work.
Ironically the lead pipe outside was split and leaking for god knows how long???
But time will tell if this new pipe work will last another 120 years.
Just found this channel and glad to sub to it.
Thank you for not editing for a grand tada!!! Moment of perfection and showing us all aspects of what can happen especially for us who are DIY’ing it
Thank you for the video. It is just what I was looking for. It will work with other cutoff valves in the house as well. Funny how many people didn't watch until the end of the video where you stated that you were planning to do the ball valve replacement when you installed the water heater - or maybe they couldn't resist saying how they would have done it. Great video!!
This was a lifesaver. The main water shutoff valve was leaking in my bedroom. I was able to get it fixed within 20 minutes thanks to this video before it caused serious damage to my floor.
I’m GLAD you finally mentioned the “Ball Valve” ….That is a serious TIME SAVER in the future! I have them on almost everything in the house. As well as on my irrigation lines!
Thank you! I had success at Step 1!! Thank you for alleviating my stress about my leaky tap with a very doable solution.
Thank you for this video!!!! It's been one thing after another on this home ownership journey, and I was almost in tears over the water valve. I didn't know that the nut on the valve could be turned 😳 I tried it and it stopped leaking! Thank you so much!
Thanks for the advice on this! Its so simple yet it never occurred to me to tighten up the damn nut just a little bit and the water stopped leaking immediately!
Thank you sooo much!! I'm a complete novice in the middle of learning how to maintain my own home. Your video was easy to see, easy to understand, and educational. 🎉
For soaking the mineraled piped with vinegar it works really well if you get a paper towel or cloth soaked in vinegar then wrapped around the pipe.
Nice, thanks for the feedback.
Whenever you shut off the water, its a good idea to remove your aerators from all your faucets before run the water again through the faucets so you can flush out any debris that may have been dislodged in the process.
While you're at it and while the water is still off, open all faucets (hot and cold) and a hose bib to drain all the water out of any dead leg type of air chambers that may have been installed to deal with any water hammer issues. The idea is that the dead leg will trap air in the end of the line which will absorb any water hammering, and it will. However, within a few months, all that air is absorbed into the water, making it useless against water hammer.
There's no guarantee that a system has air chambers in it but its a good possibility and it won't take long to try.
To resurface brass on brass mating surfaces, you can use emery cloth backed by plate glass and lap it flat. You can also anneal one surface with a torch but be careful with those threads. I would go with teflon tape or an o-ring first. As a very last resort, you could solder the parting seam. But you didn't get that from me....
Knnj
Only need to remove one aerator at highest point in the house where you purge the air from the system. Or you can just run a tub where there is no aerator.
I have always hated this old style shutoff valve…. Today I learned I just didn’t understand the packing nut. Thanks!!
I completely agree with previous comment(s) to just replace that whole valve and be done with it. Those are cheapcheap residential water service valves of questionable quality and vintage, and replacing them will not only avoid ridiculous amounts of time and trouble to recondition, but also provide an opportunity to install a higher-grade valve set.
For a key single point isolation valve such as this, I'd put in a pair of block valves in a double block-and-bleed series configuration. That will enable both the upstream (supply) side to be shut off, as well as the downstream (consumption) side so that water can't pressure back from the house. For example if someone needs to service the main upstream valve (assuming a main, outside property valve also exists) and doesn't want to have the entire building drain out into that work. The two main shutoff valves in series also allow for mutual valve backup in case one fails or gets jammed with unexpected debris. It allows for two different types of technology to be used, so one would probably work if the other fails.
The two valves I'd install in series would be a bronze class 125 'sweated' rising-stem gate valve, and a bronze 3-piece 1/4-turn 'sweated' ball valve. This assumes they are rarely used for main water shut off, but are 'swung' periodically a few times a year. The ball valve is good for a fast 'panic' action, but can get accumulations of fine deposits accumulating in crevices before and after the ball that can eventually seize it up. The narrow teflon seal against the ball can also be eventually abraded by any deposits in the water when it is turned. The bronze gate valve can 'power through' many deposits but over several decades might get the wedge face seal a little abraded. Bronze must be used so no corrosion seizes it up, and a rising-stem actuator must be used so the threads stay out of the water avoiding contamination and so you can immediately see if the valve is open or not. Both full-port valves have very low resistance to flow. Both of these types can be serviced if eventually needed.
A third, three-way bleed valve between the two in series could be installed so that residual water in the line can be drained in a controlled manner without slopping all over the place, but it's not essential. For such an important control point however, a hundred bucks or so of quality maintainable valving is well justified.
As others noted, I would have replaced the valve. However, as a DIY homeowner, this is extremely valuable learning the ins and outs of the valve. Thank you!
I've always preferred to replace the valve, but there are times where it's impossible or really difficult without a lot of work. I've never repaired a valve like this before so it's nice to add this technique to my toolbox
With the bonnet removed, take a look at the valve seat for pitting. If pitted, a valve seat grinder can quickly resurface the area. (Seat grinders cannot be used on all types of glove valves. Seat grinders are low cost.) If not repaired, the valve will have to closed more tightly and the rubber seal replaced more often.
Thank you! This is exactly the visual I needed before opening up my own leaky valve. Well explained, well filmed.
In response to the negative commenters: yeah, maybe add a disclaimer in future videos to make sure viewers have the tools and knowledge to shut off at the curb before messing with the valve. But then again, you can't hold everyone's hand all the time!
Patience of a saint. You give flippers a good name.
I was holding my breath while you were loosening that valve part and the pipe was flexing.
😅 have to work in a little drama
When doing step 1, I would recommend a wrench on the bonnet nut before tightening the packing nut. Relieves stress on the pipes.
Also step 3, hold the body of the valve body with adjustable "water pump" pliers when loosening the bonnet nut for less stress on the pipes. DIYer.
Bro you saved my life! I was literally 5mins from my bucket overflowing everywhere. Keep up the great content 👍
That's awesome, happy to help!
Nicely presented, and that scene of more leaks than ever? that's always my issue.
Yeah, globe valves are tough. If you have the option swapping out to a ball valve is a great option.
Anytime that you change a washer that has been worn, you should check the seating surface that the washer butts up against; if there is too much corrosion there, there is a tool that can grind the surface of the metal seat so that it is smooth for the ring that butts up against the washer.
Thanks for the feedback Steve 👍
lapping the valve seat
Thank you for stepping up and pointing out the problems with the second level repair and a stuck nut. I learned something, and that is what I watched for. Thank you!
Thank you! You just saved my sanity in a moment of severe panic and aggravation. Much appreciated!
That a good way to fix leak , most times I find that valve won't shut all water off cause set and inside need replaced also
That's exactly what happened to us. The valve looked old just like in the video. So we had to replace!
One important note. If this is the MAIN shut off valve (does not appear to be so) you would have to call the water company to get water shut off from outside. Then you will have to 1. Pay $ and 2. show your license...not every city has a self-service shut off outside your home.
I love the two "tech tips" of how to remove the handle with your adjustable open end wrench
(aka "Crescent wrench"), and the use of heat to assist removal of this style of bonnet.
Many thanks, and thank you for your expert tips!
I've got one of these at the water meter. Service provider requires a customer shut off on the customer's side of the meter. Just bought the house last month and haven't been able to get the water on yet because there was no evidence of the required shut off. The previous owner had water service and the ordinance requiring the shut off is older than the house...so they had to have one somewhere. It was recommended to have it located within three feet of the meter. That's exactly where I found it. Buried 18 inches under ground. No valve box or any sort of protection whatsoever. The valve is completely caked in hardened dirt that has to be broken up with a pick. I was able to excavate enough of it to get the valve to turn and then water came out of it when I turned it off. So now I have to look into that. Thanks to this video I have a pretty good idea of what I am looking for now.
Unfortunately I can't even see the valve assembly itself, I only have access to the handle. The ground requires so much force to break up that I will destroy the pipe/valve if I strike them by mistake. At this point it looks like I may just have to do that and repair the whole thing once I've got it excavated. Unless anyone here has advice on how to break up what is essentially stone without busting the pipe running through it.
There were also fire ants nesting in and around the whole area where this valve would've been protected by a box. When I found that and all these other issues I was so mad I went to Lowes for insecticide. The one time I actually have someone come up and ask if I need help finding anything and its when I know exactly what I need and where to get it. Figures. So I told him I was looking for something that would kill every living thing within a 30 mile radius in five minutes or less. He left me alone. 😂
If you shut off the water to the home, what not replace the entire valve with a new ball valve? 🤷♂️🤷♂️🤷♂️
a ball valve is way better
I asked the same question in my head
Sharkbite ball valve shutoff!
If the value had comprehension fitting the replacement value is easy and all you need is wrenches
to undo nuts hold value body with a wrench apply opposite Pressure when doing up or returning
This value is soldered and can be a nightmare to desolder this value
If you are a diyed this v
I know. I thought there was some magic to stop the leak without shutting of the main.
I never try to repair old valves, I always replace with a 1/4 turn valve. The reason is that it can be very unpredictable how much work I have to perform. I know how much time it takes to swap out a valve, but as you demonstrated, it may take a while to repair, and the cost of a new part is relatively low.
Yeah, if you can replace a ball valve is the way to go for sure. Thanks for the feedback.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Thanks for the video. I enjoyed it! Vey thorough.
Have to say, if step 1 doesn't work, step 4 is always my next, just for the reason you give, time is expensive, parts are cheap.
Ho man that was awesome next time I need l heave a leak l'll try that maybe l learn something new !! Good video 📸!
@@EverydayHomeRepairs af
Great video, I was holding my breath most of the time while you work working through it! That's what I'll be doing on my old house to be able to shut the water off to replace the dishwasher. Thanks again
I do not know anything about plumbing and this video I found perfect for my basic understanding about valves . Thank you.
You could tell by how dirty that water was from the leak that it was part eroded washer and part mineral build up. I don't even have this type of cut-off, but enjoyed the video from start to finish.
If you have a ball valve you are much better off 👍. Thx for watching.
GREAT video. I love the 3 step process of elimination because that's always what happens to me!
Great help… -19 feels like -30 and the water pipes in the house are frozen. Played with the main valve and bam! Starts to leak heavily… thanks to you , now it is solved with your help…
Most don't know what to do at all, other than call a plumber. Some know to tighten the stem cap to stop leaks there. Fewer still, will remove the valve handle to remove the stem cap and replace the packing. And almost no one will take the valve apart by removing the bonnet to replace the washer. So, this video at least shows people how to restore a leaky valve if they truly want to do the work. Great video and thank you.
always good to have a second wrench/pliers on the base nut holding it in the opposite direction to avoid strain on the valve/pipe.
Had a leaking faucet underneath a sub-floor. Wanted to put in a ball valve but would have been Extremely difficult to change out.due to pipelines and hvac ductwork. $2.59 worth of washers, several trips back and forth to the hardware store, and 3:00hrs of my time fixed the problem. Wondering what a licensed plumber would have charged. Thanks!
I would have swapped the valve out immediately. I have never used the Teflon rope thing. Nor knew it existed. Tighten the nut to stop leak was known. But if it didn't work, just change it. Which is what you are doing. Thank you for your knowledge. It is staying with me for sure! 👍
I work in a historic district and we try to save old stuff like this or at least not get invasive if we can, because once you start it, you can get deep fast lol. And some folks just want a simple repair, not a major plumbing repair.
Big issue I have with old valves is the flat washer screw is deteriorated and just snaps off. If you're lucky, the screw is so deteriorated that you can pick what's left and clean up the threads for a new screw Otherwise, it gets tricky with drilling a bit and trying to clean out the hole, the hole with a blind hole tap. Other issue is with really old valves the body washer is an odd one and hard to find, if can be at all. Lotsa fun to be had :)
BUT, be prepared for the worst when taking these things apart. Replacement may be required.
4:40 I'd have used a wire brush to avoid getting grit from the sandpaper into the valve's moving/sealing parts; also, the brush's bristles deep-clean the valve's nooks and crannies (i.e., the threads) much better than the flat-bodied sandpaper, which cannot effectively "reach down into" the recesses.
Yep you beat me to it.
Use an old toothbrush for final clean up?
@@amerlin388 Yes, or a brass-bristled brush; it cleans off debris without scratching up the soft copper too much, the way a steel-bristled brush would :D
I was itching wanting to reach into the video with my wire brush to show him of better option lol 😂
Great video from beginning to end. Acually showing what you can do. Then what you should really do. Thnx.
Thanks Roger.
Great video. I loved everything in it. I want to add something. I assisted an old-timer plumber, fix-it guy, who taught me a lot. I think he would have had me remove the drip valve cap when adding the torch/heat to save the washer in it.
I would take a toothbrush to the stem before trying sandpaper.
I like it that he first tried the repair and, found he needed more Teflon, and showed how to resolve it.
This was great to see, and thank you. There might be times when this can help me. But if you can shut the water off at your curb, why wouldn't you just replace the valve with a new 1/4 turn one??
Great video! Packing cord..... Learned something new
Here to help 👍
This teacher is good explaining everything.
Many thanks Scott. One of my globe valves feeding an outside hose faucet started leaking badly when I re-opened it after this last winter. I live in Michigan and shut off outside water in late November, reopening in early April to avoid the worst of winter. This Spring, the valve that is worst for access - it sits above a finished area in the basement - sprung a leak after 22 years of use. I was ready to remove it (through a 6x6 spring loaded access panel - that would be a tough job!) but watched your video first and was able to fix the leak with your first suggestion: a ¼ turn of the pack nut! Thanks a bunch!
I don't know if this applies to some types of faucets but I was always taught to open the valve fully not just part way. I'm not sure if this is correct on water fittings but by opening the valve fully it also helps to seal the stem. The only upper seal that I see on that fitting is the packing at the top so maybe this doesn't apply.
Great information, and I think this should take the fear out of messing with this type of faucet. 👍
When first opening a valve, especially a water main, opening part way allows a slower water pressure build up in your system. If you open it all the way, then the initial water rush could break every faucet in your house. One exception here is if you have a back-flow preventer, as that might keep tripping with partial water pressure; but even in this case you don't want to jam the valve open, just a slow but steady opening is fine.
Now, once the system is filled, you should fully open the valve. Again, I will caveat, that with a multi-turn valve like in the video, back it off a 1/2 or 1/4 turn, as it will help prevent the valve from being stuck in the on position. It will still be 99% open, which is close enough to still quality as "fully" open.
@@canebro1
8th
Good stuff, but after you buy the separate washer, and other items, you might as well spend the $10-$15. on the whole valve stem unit.
No kidding huh?...especially since the street-supply was shut off, anyhow. But then you'd have to insert that link to your "how-to-solder copper" video. For those who have no clue bout' that either. lol
Propress new ball valve
I would have just got rid of the old valve and put a ball valve. If you can't Sauder and are in a open location like this either us a sharkbite or learn to saulder (its really not as hard as people seem to think)
@@stich1960 bro, "saulder"? wtf?
SOLDER!!
@@stich1960 Soldering is not as hard as spelling solder....
I own a trailer in a mh park. There is no water meter shut off to my unit. The incoming valve is original circa 1976. A plumber said it would cost a lot to replace. Probably a couple hundred. The valve leaked more and more when fully turned on. I put up with it for a year. Then I watched your video. I tried using the Teflon packing on a supply line to a washer with no luck and just replaced the valve. This time I used the graphite packing ($3) just on the exposed outer threads of the packing nut as I couldn't remove the handle and there wasn't enough room to thread around the handle post. But it still worked! Thanks..
Great technique.!
Thank you!
VERY WELL EXPLAINED. Well done!
Thanks for watching!
My house has a shower in the garage where there probably was a sink, that said i have exactly the same old type valve. Stopped leaking for now, i just dont mess with it, probably going to upgrade to the ball valve. And create both a shower and utility sink.
Thanks for the great diagnosis and resolve.
Happy New Year, America...
Yeah, longterm solution would be a ball valve 👍
Step 3 should alway best dealing with this issue.
Great video sharing how stopped leaks.
For toilet and bathroom sink, have exactly the same problems.
No open spaces, a tiny bathroom, valve under toilet tank and valve underneath enclosed sink, impossible for welding nor solders.
No solder, just replaced new valves, but only partial.
Removed stem valve-flat and installed new stem valve-flat, because stem corrosive and weaken.
Great info. I like to replace all parts that I can, stem and other parts.
If you have the space and time you might want to also consider swapping out to a ball valve as compared to the globe valve. Ball valve will dramatically reduce the issue moving forward. 👍
...my experience says, when ready to assemble, rub a liberal amount of grease on the threads of everything,washers etc, then, install. This will displace any micro spaces to KEEP OUT deposits of any 'stuff' in the water....
I agree going through all this trouble . if water is already off just replace the valve less time and less running
Excellent thank you! I was just about to replace two valves and I think this is all that I need to do! Once again thank you for taking the time to show us!
Good information. Thank you. 👍🏼
My pleasure!
2 Things you need to do. Heat where the bonnet threads are and not on the bottom of the valve. Second always use vasoline on the threads and the valve handle. They will come off easy years later. My experience from more than 57 years in maintenance.
Vaseline intensive care... 😁
Plumbers grease
I want to thank you for this detailed video. I had to work in a small crawl space under the house where the faucet leaked. Thankful for the torque warnings. The leak stopped because of your instructions .THanks!
I've never seen a water shut-off to any of the houses on my street. The city sent notice the water would be off as they were hooking up a new fire station. Worked perfectly, although just replaced the entire valve. :)
Nice work! Thanks for the tips. May God Bless.
My pleasure!