WATERCOOLING DIY TIPS: USE THE EKWB LEAK TESTER CORRECTLY!
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- čas přidán 22. 03. 2021
- Too many people are putting way too much pressure into their loops, creating potential damage to parts and creating leaks.
#EKWB #WATERCOOLING #WATERCOOLEDPC - Věda a technologie
Thank you for actually sharing good information unlike so many of the videos out there
Great video! I was going to put it in the green region, but saw your video and read the manual, they say the maximum for a loop is 0.35 bar
Thanks for this! Super helpful as I am waiting for my leak tester to come in the mail.
Cleaned my loop today and kept pumping to .75 and a fitting kept popping off. 😂Thanks for the vid
Great tips. I just tested all my components separately and one of the reservoirs was not holding pressure, so I had to correct the issue.
Glad I forgot the instructions and came here before starting the test! 🙌🏾
Thank you so much! Great info, my water cooling dude!
Great information. Thank you.
I didn't have the manual and assumed that green meant good. heard a bunch of crackling in the radiators and a tube came loose. wish I saw this earlier :P
Great tips. Thank you.
Good information for those who don't read the manual, which says to go to 0.3 bar when testing a loop. Interestingly, for anyone without a manual or the ability to read one, they suggest the following: Waterblock 1.0 bar, Reservoir 0.6 bar, Distro plate 0.3 bar, Radiator 0.6 bar, and the loop at 0.3 bar.
Excellent tips, a lot of potential headaches and time wasted here. I'll be doing my first loop soon, thank you.
Thanks! This is really useful info.
Watching this while testing my radiator with 0.7 bar
RTFM .. Every component has its own max bar pressure from as low as 0.3 bar to 0.6 bar. So if you're testing the entire loop you need to fall to limit the pressure to the lowest rated bar pressure in the loop. Generally 15 minutes of no loss in pressure is the gold standard.
Awesome info thank you :)
Saved my day thanks
I just did my first loop this weekend.. There was no manual in the box, and I didn't check online.. So I went ahead assuming i needed it to stay in green in order for it to get the green light.. Tubes were popping out everywhere, and it gave me a ton of headaches. So, in the end I decided to go ahead and fill the loop because it held preassure fine for 45 minutes at 0,3 bar... Imagine my suprise when I finally did get to read the manual.. Though, looking at those tubes popping out left me insecure about it all.. It took me three days to muster up the courage to put the glass panel on... 😐
yeah learned the one part of a time leaktest. had one fitting o ring torn so it was leaking in my last tube run. wouldve saved hours of work with going piece by piece
I wish I had found your video earlier. Now I had a leak and my rad was popping when I was pumping
This is nice, kinda wanted to buy one of the chinese pressure test from china, to test some of the chinese, material i have, 0.5 bar = 5 meter head pressure, so yes 0.5 bar is stupid high, unless the d5 pump is runing at fill speed in a small loop, so overpower lmao, 0.3 bar looks so nice, so close to 3 meter head pressure, this sound way more normal, since people run the ddc or D5 at 50% or less for a small loop cpu+rad+pump, even if you had a gpu block, it would still be ok.
Thanks. Did my first test at 5. Then read the manual and did it at 6! Also left overnight. All good though. Ran the test one last time for one hour after at .5 and all good. Thanks again for the useful info. Can believe EK sends these out like this.
It will be fixed soon tm, but they are aware of it.
8 months later just got mine still has this issue :(
Great tips thank you! I'm looking for which parts are necessary to build your own leak tester.. Are there any YT clip on this?
you could build your own, but unless you have a very specific reason to do so I would just buy one. I built my own back in 2010 when there were not may options outside of the aquacomputer one
Thank you for this video. Question I do have though, I ran the test for 30min or so. No drop. But if I let it run for 2 hours, it does drop a couple of notches or more. Does the air pressure test just become less reliable beyond the suggested 30min?
If your dropping like 2 notches over a long period of time then it is likely a slow leak. Now keep in mind air can fit thru spaces water can’t. So there are instances where you may not be able to hold x bar , does not mean it will leak. Now If it is going down to 0 then your definitely going to leak. Let’s say your not dropping below .25 bar then you should be fine. You will not have more pressure then that in a loop
Worn, but when turned upside down still ok gpu o rings tend to loudly drop pressure above 0.45 Bar.
Since my EK DDC pump can produce up to 0.7 bar, i tested the whole loop with 0.8 bar. Nothing failed. Of course this pressure could only occur if the loop would be blocked completely somewhere. But better be safe than sorry. Don't want to risk destroying my hardware cause of a leak somewhere.
so what pressure are dual DDC 3.2s in a series going to have when each one has 5.2m head pressure?
EK manual: waterblock 1.0+-0.05 bar, Reservoir 0.6+-0.05 bar，distribution plate 0.3+-0.05 bar，radiator 0.6+-0.05 bar， loop 0.3+-0.05 bar
Those values are still too high. It will be revised, confirmed.
What you mean loop? The whole water loop system?
@@enginanil5412 yes
So what would you say is the ideal bar to test at? I am just about to finish my loop and have one of these I was going to leak test with this weekend.
.3 bar is more than sufficient.
@@JCustom can i do it at 0.25 bar?
0.3 for disstro plate, 0.6 for radiator, but 0.3 bar for all loop by ek manual. It's not to be sum of all values when all loop value is?
No that’s if your testing individual parts. There is no sum of pressure values when looking at the total. Tbh you never need to be over .25
@@JCustom ah OK
Does it work for soft tubing? Couldn’t get mine to not drop
Ofc you can. Not dropping is a good thing
@@JCustom yea but that's the thing that didn't work. I would assume the pressure got the tubing to expand slightly
Manual says: 1bar for waterblock, 0,6bar for reservoir, 0,3bar for distribution plate, 0,6bar for radiator, 0,3bar for loop.
You never need 1 bar. .25-.28 is more then enough.
The theory behind the loop at .3 bar is, that you never test above the maximum allowable operating pressure (MAOP) of the lowest component. Exclude the distro plate, and then that number would be no more than .6 bar, but I use to test at .5, .4 bar lately. I do just as he said, test each component , then test after a few connections in the loop as I go. I haven't had a leak of water in years, since back in the paper towel fill days, lol.
I feel for the 0.5 trick I went into the green. It’s pretty stupid
Ugh no manual, and green was good for me.
Thank you for this video, super helpful!