Great vid! I wish I could do a timing belt/oil change in 16 minutes! I like torque specs included - as I find it EXTREMELY difficult to find shop manuals for the MKIV models. Thanks!
Always a good idea to change coolant when doing timing belt and water pump change. It will prolong the life of your expensive new water pump and prolong the life of the engine too, removing the 5+ years of crap built up in the system. I mean you've already got this far 😄, just simply remove the lower radiator hose and have a large bucket ready to catch it.
Take the tire to have it plugged professionally from the inside. There are specific sized combinationplug/patch sizes that are far less damaging to the tire carcass. Sure, the plugs hold ok, but the damage to the steel belt definitely shortens the service life. Happened to me. Plenty of tread but the belts failed a year after the plug went in.
Great Video!! Nice quality and all the important stuff is covered. And if someone does not know the other stuff, they prolly should not be doing this job. And yes torque specs would be nice. Thanks for your time!!
Great video, man! I have a 2012 Jetta TDI with 119,000 and it's about to get a timing belt. I *was* going to try it myself, but you convinced me that I shouldln't - too many places to screw it up! Instead, I'll find a competent shop and have them do it, along with the water pump and tensioners of course. Thanks for letting us watch you do it :)
Really great details.. but feel free to not speed up the video in any spots where it might be obvious on how to do something, we the viewer can always fast forward.. I like your commentary on doing the work.. hardest thing for me, is knowing what to remove to get access to things like the hoses and coolant lines etc.. but really good video !!!
I'm working on better shots in my videos it's tough sometimes. As for the crank I did not lock it only the cam was locked. I use the paint to make sure I get it in the correct spot. It is nice to leave the crank free so that right before pulling the belt off I can apply pressure to the right side of the belt turning the crank just enough to ease install. It turns it maybe a half a cog but makes doing the belt much easier.
I just did mine and the rope timing belt cover seems a bit loose but I don’t how it flush it was before is this something to cause concern or could it cuz be a warm out plastic top cover
Nicely done, doesn't look like you have much room to work. Great tips - thanks! I like the pin the Europeans use. It looks like VW recommends 130K intervals for TDI timing belts? Do you work much on TDIs? I'm looking at a used 2012 TDI Wagon with relatively low miles. What should I look for in terms of issues the car may have?
It's been changed. Was originally 120k. Just like other things have changed. Trains oil/filter. Fuel filter. I mainly work on mine. Ask any vw mechanic.
@@zachhecksel2920 130k or 8 years. But all good mechanics recommend 120k. Rather be safe than have a paper weight. The belt rarely fails, normally a water pump does.
Ok in a pinch you could do it this way but without the proper tools it’s almost impossible to properly time the engine once you replace the belt...the biggest issue is once you put in the new belt you absolutely have to rotate the engine 2 full rotations by hand then recheck your mating marks...I’ve done quite a bit of these and trust me the marks are off every time, not having the proper tools to align the cam risks SERIOUS DAMAGE to your engine
Wondering what the consensus is for also doing the HPFP on this job, since your already in the motor is there a legit concern to preemptively change that out with the tensioner, the idlers, H2O pump? But I would think that pump would need replaced every 100k mi? Just looking for input since I’m gonna do my timing belt on my 2013 TDI sportwagen this weekend.. also crazed can you put a link into this with the 6mm bit and ratchet you used for the tensioner? 👍🏻
Run a good lubricity fuel additive heavily and don’t ride around on empty trying to see how many miles you can get per tank. This and poor diesel quality kills the pump imo. Good luck lmk if you need anything else. I have 2010 cjaa.
@@briansmith9258 tx!!! Yep I add 100mls of Opti-Lube XPD to every tank.. seems to be giving me a little better mileage, but I’m more concerned about pump life.. but the 80k filter replacement I didn’t see anything in the fuel canister.. it’s just I would think the fuel pump is just as critical to change as the H2O pump?
@@virtisconsole12 I run 1-2 oz opti-lube lubricity and 4-6oz of howes or stanadyne, after doing liquid moly fsc, heet. Trying hotshot next. Then usually fill up at half tank. Probably took six to 8 tanks for me to notice. Car is super responsive but the real kicker is how quiet my injection pump is now. Big difference.
some guides call for removing the motor mount to remove the timing belt Tensioner bolt. I have the exact car you used in this video. did you find this to be the case?
I don't know the cost of parts off top of my head but there are several options also. The job pays just over 3.5hrs I believe so not to difficult just be sure to do it right or you will regret it. If you are local and interested in me doing it I can get you a quote if you want. I'm located in Minnesota.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair Hi I'm in long beach California I'll love to have someone like you very clean and well done. Thanks for answering I work in my car's but never work in a disel engine
When you say oil leak, are you talking about draining it to do the oil change? I used identifix for my repair information. As for comparing to a Honda I guess it is similar in that it is a timing belt with pulleys otherwise it is completely different.
Thanks for this video, we are working on a 2013 Jetta right now; had to take the motor mount off in order to remove the tensioner. We tried loosening, but there just wasn't any room. Any tips on what we could have done?
The car ran fine prior to working on it and I was sure to mark things to be positive it didn't change from how I pulled it apart. In other words, I didn't.
I used a vise grip to unscrew the tensioner bolt: NO need to take the engine mount off! It takes some time to undo and do the bolt, but it is 100% doable since I just did it: I started today, but could NOT finish, so I will finish it tomorrow FGW (it is really time consuming!!!).The only HARD thing to do is the serpentine belt tensioner bolt: it sits in a place where you can NOT see it, but feel it with a 13 mm deep socket. You then add a small extension to your socket and unscrew/screw it in place. You however HAVE to take the bottom large hose which impeaches you from reaching the hole where you have to insert you deep socket to unscrew the serpentine belt tensioner. The rest is just procedure...! Good luck as it made me work very hard: it is easy to watch it getting done on CZcams, but when you start, you will see it requires patience and know how, especially when putting on the new timing belt: keep it in a warm spot until you are ready to put it on- when cold it is does not flex and gives you a lot of trouble!
@@azizhachimi8744 i will never understand this. that mount takes very little time to remove and makes the job easier then it already is. if your doing this job i assume you have a jack and some random block of wood to support the engine.
Thanks, but unfortunately I don't give tq numbers out unless it is something I know is fairly universal. I prefer you look it up yourself for liability reasons.
hey all, truck driver from bc canada here with a 2013 tdi and just a quote of $1350 plus tax to do this job... frikin ouch I know I need to do it as I have 150kms on the car and it was do at 130 but who has that kinda cash these days? how far can I push it before im in the danger zone?
Glen Anderson Hi there, I have same car, am at 162 250 km and no worries! I am thinking to change it soon, along with coolant and transmission fluid.Advise: get the OEM timing belt kit at idparts.com (400US$) and fine a private shop who will do it for no more than 200-300 CAD$ as a max= 700-800 CAD total! Good luck!
idparts.com states: Timing Belt Kit OEM (CBEA CJAA) OEM VW OEM Part Number: 03L198119 Manufacturer Number: 03L198119 OEM Timing belt kit for all Common-Rail, "clean diesel" TDI, including 2009+Jetta, Golf and Sportwagen. All components of this kit are rated for the full 120k mile timing belt change interval and are manufactured by top-quality European manufacturers. The OEM kit includes: OEM Timing Belt by Gates OEM Timing Belt Tensioner OEM Small Top Roller OEM Small Lower Roller OEM Large Roller In addition, this kit also includes: Water Pump Graf/Geba with metal impeller Serpentine Belt from Contitech Also Includes the IDParts.com Timing Belt Bolt Kit, which includes: Tensioner & Roller Nut 3 Camshaft Sprocket Bolt 1 Large Roller Bolt 1 Mount to Body Bolt 1 Mount to Body Bolt with Stud 2 Mount to Bracket Bolts 1 Bracket to Block Long 1 Bracket to Block Short 1 Bracket to Block w/ Stud 3 Water Pump BoltsEM Timing belt kit for all Common-Rail, "clean diesel" TDI, including 2009+Jetta, Golf and Sportwagen.
Service schedule is 130k miles or 200k km as per VW on common rails Dont let anyone tell you less. They are designed for it. Over servicing is just wasting money. I would change it once its 10 years old if you haven't reached the mileage though
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair Update: I am finally doing it at 186013 km and the old belt still looks good= I am 100% sure it will go up to 200k km or even more!
This is absolutely the wrong way doing a timing belt change.. its called a TIMING belt for a reason, you must check and TIME and double check everything by rotating the crankshaft a few times and check camshaft & high pressure pump position.. a new belt is not the same as the old one! everything now is out of position (atleast a couple mm's!!) < ---- (crucial!!!)
Why mark the belt? The cam and crank have timing marks you line up. You did this the hard way and not so smart way. People please don't go off what this video says bc its not the right way. And yes I change my own belt on a 2011 tdi golf
Good for you, I thought marking the belts was dumb the first time I seen it too. You might be surprised what you learn when you try something you think is pointless.
chains still stretch, guides fail as do tensioners. will need regular service that will likely cost more then a belt and adds another potential spot to leak.
Torque specs for the particular vehicle is always nice
Found your channel cause I have a lifter tick on my 5.3l then found this video on your playlists that works for my 2013 sportwagon tdi. Win win
Great vid! I wish I could do a timing belt/oil change in 16 minutes! I like torque specs included - as I find it EXTREMELY difficult to find shop manuals for the MKIV models. Thanks!
If only I could edit myself while I am working...
Always a good idea to change coolant when doing timing belt and water pump change. It will prolong the life of your expensive new water pump and prolong the life of the engine too, removing the 5+ years of crap built up in the system. I mean you've already got this far 😄, just simply remove the lower radiator hose and have a large bucket ready to catch it.
The fluid was recently changed and that is the reason for trying not to loose it.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair Ow ye that's fine, I was just saying this to anyone who is trying to do this for themselves 😁.
Take the tire to have it plugged professionally from the inside. There are specific sized combinationplug/patch sizes that are far less damaging to the tire carcass. Sure, the plugs hold ok, but the damage to the steel belt definitely shortens the service life. Happened to me. Plenty of tread but the belts failed a year after the plug went in.
I didn’t realise this was possible without taking of the engine mount ! Wow
Great Video!! Nice quality and all the important stuff is covered. And if someone does not know the other stuff, they prolly should not be doing this job. And yes torque specs would be nice. Thanks for your time!!
yes why not but more importantly show new part numbers such a big help
Great video, man! I have a 2012 Jetta TDI with 119,000 and it's about to get a timing belt. I *was* going to try it myself, but you convinced me that I shouldln't - too many places to screw it up! Instead, I'll find a competent shop and have them do it, along with the water pump and tensioners of course. Thanks for letting us watch you do it :)
Great Video It would be helpful if you added Torque Specs Thanks for doing this!
great video, thanks man !
Np I do it to help
Yes always add torque specs.. thanks
Really great details.. but feel free to not speed up the video in any spots where it might be obvious on how to do something, we the viewer can always fast forward.. I like your commentary on doing the work.. hardest thing for me, is knowing what to remove to get access to things like the hoses and coolant lines etc.. but really good video !!!
Great video but the torque specs and close up shots would also help very much
How did you top the coolant up after? How did you bleed it?
Did you replace the cam sprocket and HPFP bolts after loosening them?
Thanks!
I’m curious about the coolant as well.
Absolutely dangerous to do this job without the proper locks. Reasonably priced from most reputable TDI parts vendors.
Was a matter of time before tdiclubbers chimed in like only 5 people in the country can work on these cars lol. It's a TB.
Your right bud, mark and pray method. Caught any of the techs doing this , their ass and toolbox would be out on the street.
great video but some close up shots would be more help, also did you lock the crank or no?
I'm working on better shots in my videos it's tough sometimes. As for the crank I did not lock it only the cam was locked. I use the paint to make sure I get it in the correct spot. It is nice to leave the crank free so that right before pulling the belt off I can apply pressure to the right side of the belt turning the crank just enough to ease install. It turns it maybe a half a cog but makes doing the belt much easier.
I just did mine and the rope timing belt cover seems a bit loose but I don’t how it flush it was before is this something to cause concern or could it cuz be a warm out plastic top cover
thanks for doing this!!
What long 1/4” ratchet did you use with the 6mm Allen key bit?
I have a similar one but way shorter
Nicely done, doesn't look like you have much room to work. Great tips - thanks! I like the pin the Europeans use. It looks like VW recommends 130K intervals for TDI timing belts? Do you work much on TDIs? I'm looking at a used 2012 TDI Wagon with relatively low miles. What should I look for in terms of issues the car may have?
120k actually
@@jottow680 the maintenance schedule I have says 130k. Mk6
It's been changed. Was originally 120k. Just like other things have changed. Trains oil/filter. Fuel filter. I mainly work on mine. Ask any vw mechanic.
@@zachhecksel2920 130k or 8 years. But all good mechanics recommend 120k. Rather be safe than have a paper weight. The belt rarely fails, normally a water pump does.
Thank's for the video! Just a question? Did you count the teeth on the belt's? Did they match? Just curious. Thank's!
I didn't count them but I line new belt up over top over the old and match then mark them.
Ok in a pinch you could do it this way but without the proper tools it’s almost impossible to properly time the engine once you replace the belt...the biggest issue is once you put in the new belt you absolutely have to rotate the engine 2 full rotations by hand then recheck your mating marks...I’ve done quite a bit of these and trust me the marks are off every time, not having the proper tools to align the cam risks SERIOUS DAMAGE to your engine
Dont you have 2 remove the motor mount to get the tensioner off?
I honestly don't recall. It's been a while since I did one. Whatever I did here is how I got it done.
How long did it take to do it?
also curious.
Good video thanks. Doesn’t look like $1,300 worth of work lol. May be skipping the shop
I don't charge near that but it doesn't surprise me one would charge that much. Just a little heads up I make things look easy lol.
KevanRay did it in 4 hours, it was an easy job lol
KevanRay Well I must admit, I work as a mechanic, not on cars but everything pretty well carries over lol
At what miles should the belt be replaced?
the 2012 vw jetta owners manual says 130,000
Wondering what the consensus is for also doing the HPFP on this job, since your already in the motor is there a legit concern to preemptively change that out with the tensioner, the idlers, H2O pump? But I would think that pump would need replaced every 100k mi? Just looking for input since I’m gonna do my timing belt on my 2013 TDI sportwagen this weekend.. also crazed can you put a link into this with the 6mm bit and ratchet you used for the tensioner? 👍🏻
Run a good lubricity fuel additive heavily and don’t ride around on empty trying to see how many miles you can get per tank. This and poor diesel quality kills the pump imo. Good luck lmk if you need anything else. I have 2010 cjaa.
@@briansmith9258 tx!!! Yep I add 100mls of Opti-Lube XPD to every tank.. seems to be giving me a little better mileage, but I’m more concerned about pump life.. but the 80k filter replacement I didn’t see anything in the fuel canister.. it’s just I would think the fuel pump is just as critical to change as the H2O pump?
@@virtisconsole12 I run 1-2 oz opti-lube lubricity and 4-6oz of howes or stanadyne, after doing liquid moly fsc, heet.
Trying hotshot next.
Then usually fill up at half tank. Probably took six to 8 tanks for me to notice. Car is super responsive but the real kicker is how quiet my injection pump is now. Big difference.
Who makes that long ratchet bit wrench at 9:45
some guides call for removing the motor mount to remove the timing belt Tensioner bolt. I have the exact car you used in this video. did you find this to be the case?
I believe I only unbolted it but did not remove it.
I just get one TDI 2011 with 90000 I may have to swap the timing belt big job..
How much do this job cost with parts?
I don't know the cost of parts off top of my head but there are several options also. The job pays just over 3.5hrs I believe so not to difficult just be sure to do it right or you will regret it. If you are local and interested in me doing it I can get you a quote if you want. I'm located in Minnesota.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair
Hi I'm in long beach California I'll love to have someone like you very clean and well done.
Thanks for answering I work in my car's but never work in a disel engine
How much does this normally cost for a shop to do?
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair are you located in Glencoe, MN?
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair where in MN
How bad was the timing belt visibly after you removed it?
No to bad.
Yes. Torque specs
What's that oil leak from? What service manual are you using? And how does this compare to a Honda timing belt change? Thanks
When you say oil leak, are you talking about draining it to do the oil change? I used identifix for my repair information. As for comparing to a Honda I guess it is similar in that it is a timing belt with pulleys otherwise it is completely different.
CrazedPerformanceRepair thanks for the reply! You can see oil all over the back of the block around 9:00. Could be spillage from the oil fill area.
I'm wondering if this timing belt change would be the same or similar on a 2012 jetta sedan?
If diesel it will be the same. If gas is it is going to be very similar but the head is different and may have different menothed to lock cam gear.
Thanks for this video, we are working on a 2013 Jetta right now; had to take the motor mount off in order to remove the tensioner. We tried loosening, but there just wasn't any room. Any tips on what we could have done?
The stud has to be pulled out with the tensioner and installed with the new tensioner from what I recall.
How did you affirm you were at Top Dead Center??
The car ran fine prior to working on it and I was sure to mark things to be positive it didn't change from how I pulled it apart. In other words, I didn't.
is the mechanical tensioner's tightening position temperature related?
Not that I'm aware of.
How did you get the tensioner off without undoing the engine mount
I pulled the stud out I believe, been awhile though so I don't recall.
I used a vise grip to unscrew the tensioner bolt: NO need to take the engine mount off! It takes some time to undo and do the bolt, but it is 100% doable since I just did it: I started today, but could NOT finish, so I will finish it tomorrow FGW (it is really time consuming!!!).The only HARD thing to do is the serpentine belt tensioner bolt: it sits in a place where you can NOT see it, but feel it with a 13 mm deep socket. You then add a small extension to your socket and unscrew/screw it in place. You however HAVE to take the bottom large hose which impeaches you from reaching the hole where you have to insert you deep socket to unscrew the serpentine belt tensioner. The rest is just procedure...! Good luck as it made me work very hard: it is easy to watch it getting done on CZcams, but when you start, you will see it requires patience and know how, especially when putting on the new timing belt: keep it in a warm spot until you are ready to put it on- when cold it is does not flex and gives you a lot of trouble!
@@azizhachimi8744 i will never understand this. that mount takes very little time to remove and makes the job easier then it already is. if your doing this job i assume you have a jack and some random block of wood to support the engine.
Great job men!! more eficient that more videos in here! how mutch torque did you put in the bolts of 11:13???
Thanks, but unfortunately I don't give tq numbers out unless it is something I know is fairly universal. I prefer you look it up yourself for liability reasons.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair trust me... i search in a few sites but i dont find anything! :-(
@@jmase8544 purchase a manual for your car, it is good to have anyway.
hey all, truck driver from bc canada here with a 2013 tdi and just a quote of $1350 plus tax to do this job... frikin ouch I know I need to do it as I have 150kms on the car and it was do at 130 but who has that kinda cash these days? how far can I push it before im in the danger zone?
I've seen them reach much higher but why risk it. $1350 is much cheaper than a motor or pulling the head off and replacing valves.
Glen Anderson Hi there, I have same car, am at 162 250 km and no worries! I am thinking to change it soon, along with coolant and transmission fluid.Advise: get the OEM timing belt kit at idparts.com (400US$) and fine a private shop who will do it for no more than 200-300 CAD$ as a max= 700-800 CAD total! Good luck!
idparts.com states:
Timing Belt Kit OEM (CBEA CJAA)
OEM VW
OEM Part Number: 03L198119
Manufacturer Number: 03L198119
OEM Timing belt kit for all Common-Rail, "clean diesel" TDI, including 2009+Jetta, Golf and Sportwagen.
All components of this kit are rated for the full 120k mile timing belt change interval and are manufactured by top-quality European manufacturers.
The OEM kit includes:
OEM Timing Belt by Gates
OEM Timing Belt Tensioner
OEM Small Top Roller
OEM Small Lower Roller
OEM Large Roller
In addition, this kit also includes:
Water Pump Graf/Geba with metal impeller
Serpentine Belt from Contitech
Also Includes the IDParts.com Timing Belt Bolt Kit, which includes:
Tensioner & Roller Nut
3 Camshaft Sprocket Bolt
1 Large Roller Bolt
1 Mount to Body Bolt
1 Mount to Body Bolt with Stud
2 Mount to Bracket Bolts
1 Bracket to Block Long
1 Bracket to Block Short
1 Bracket to Block w/ Stud
3 Water Pump BoltsEM Timing belt kit for all Common-Rail, "clean diesel" TDI, including 2009+Jetta, Golf and Sportwagen.
Service schedule is 130k miles or 200k km as per VW on common rails Dont let anyone tell you less. They are designed for it. Over servicing is just wasting money. I would change it once its 10 years old if you haven't reached the mileage though
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair Update: I am finally doing it at 186013 km and the old belt still looks good= I am 100% sure it will go up to 200k km or even more!
The music, if it can be called that, is loud and not improving the video
It seemed that the video was fast forward to much.I think you should have slowed the section down and explained before moving on to next step.
You can manually slow the video down. It’s in the video settings
Why did you change the timing belt? High milage?
it was due for the second belt at 200,000 miles
This is absolutely the wrong way doing a timing belt change.. its called a TIMING belt for a reason, you must check and TIME and double check everything by rotating the crankshaft a few times and check camshaft & high pressure pump position.. a new belt is not the same as the old one! everything now is out of position (atleast a couple mm's!!) < ---- (crucial!!!)
Don't get crazy on me
Why mark the belt? The cam and crank have timing marks you line up. You did this the hard way and not so smart way. People please don't go off what this video says bc its not the right way. And yes I change my own belt on a 2011 tdi golf
Good for you, I thought marking the belts was dumb the first time I seen it too. You might be surprised what you learn when you try something you think is pointless.
vw is pricey already, and they should use timing chain.
my kia costs less than a vw, and it uses a timing chain.
chains still stretch, guides fail as do tensioners. will need regular service that will likely cost more then a belt and adds another potential spot to leak.
Yeah ppl. Dont follow this method, at all.
Not much of a mechanic video with stupid music playing.
Yeah I stopped the music, this is a really old video.
Great video bud thanks.
Thanks, Glad you enjoyed it