Mike I was getting my butt kicked today on the same carb almost and learned something new. I also missed the center screw gasket twisting down with the screw that sprays the Venturi! I went back and looked at it spilling in underneath and said Oh my God! I pulled it and made a new one and it fixed my problem. I own a Mobile Marine Repair shop and it goes to show you that there is always more to learn every day. Thanks for posting this. Boat is turn key now after a slight timing tweek.
Thanks for posting your carb rebuild video, i've definitely learned something. i just bought a 28' fiberform boat with twin 302 Merc motors. It'll be a definite challenge for me to get everything running. Thanks again.
Thanks for this Mike!! Your kit arrived in 3 days. Your video was exactly what I needed to complete this rebuild. It only took me a couple hours from start to finish. Like he says in the video, take lots of pics of the more intricate steps, like the linkage and choke areas so you can assemble them easier.
Fantastic and super helpful. Thanks! I ordered my carb kit from you - it was easy to order and fit perfectly. Not all companies were as accurate or as helpful. Keep up the great service.
Mike- Thanks so much for taking the time to make this video. My carb rebuild went without a hiccup. I have a few points that along with your video made it almost effortless. 1- I bought the OEM base gaskets since the ones in the kit where thinner then OEM and numerous ppl have said it does make a difference. 2- Used a cheap ultrasonic cleaner with a heater to soak. Mixed 50:50 water and Simple Green Pro HD (purple). 3- As you stated in your video I didn't use the included washers for the main jets even though the OEM diagram shows to use them. 4- Used a drimmel to make a new notch in the old float seat when the screw driver and impact driver finally sheared off the top of the old one. Glad a new one is part of the kit.
Thank you very much for all the detail. Finally got dad's old boat running again! I recommend better lighting as you move forward with your videos. Slow down, and let people get a good look at the intricate parts. Again thank you very much!
Mike, I purchased a rebuild kit from you a couple of months ago. I also purchased a brass float as I thought it would be better. After rebuilding the carb, the boat ran better than before, but still not well. Exhaust fumes were massive. After fishing for one full day, I checked the plugs and they were very black with carbon, meaning running rich. I disassembled the carb 3 times trying to re-adjust the float properly. Still ran worse and worse. I was about to order a rebuilt carb from another company and then decided to try it with the old float once again. Put it back on the boat and it runs perfectly. Turns out those brass floats do not have a mark on them on which to measure when installing. The old mere one does. I had tried to adjust that brass one both directions, measuring from the toe, etc etc. I would highly recommend you only sell the other type that has the little dots on it for measurement. Other than that, I have no complaints and was very happy with your rebuild kit.
Adjusted pump rod to spec. and replaced inlet filter screen, installed on engine and re-adjusted mixture and idle screws. Engine now runs well. It was a case of fuel starvation, as near as I could tell that limited the high RPM's.
Thanks for the Video. I allowed a friend of mine who said he can build a carb build mine.... Made it worse! I've ordered my second kit and going to have at it again except this time I'm going to build it myself!
A fine screen (clogged up) in the anti-siphoning device in the fuel tank(s) was the main culprit in the fuel starvation scenario. The service manual made no mention of this. After 28 years of use, they both needed cleaned out.
I went and did all that rebuild and put the fuel filter in the carb the wrong way. Duh. I thought I failed at rebuilding it. I reversed the filter the correct way, and she started right up after 12 years of sitting in a driveway..
I think I may have figured it out. each time I took apart the carb the power piston fell out... as if it was always resting on the power valve..never letting the vacuum of the engine work properly to keep the extra fuel out! so when it goes back together..the power piston isn't even in its place. peen it?
I was on the right path...the power piston was loose and not fully seated in its recess. was resting on the power valve..and guess where all my fuel was coming from? word to the wise.... if you DO carburetor work and have a setup like this...make sure that your piston is fully seated in place!
Ok, I just finished rebuilding my 2BBl Mercarb. This is a great video. I do have a question. My choke spring has sort of squared loop on the end, instead of just a flat spot for the lever to sit on the right side. Do I put the lever inside the loop? I would think so, because then the spring can help bring it back if the choke gets a little stuck. Right?
Also, when I set mine at 2 lean, the choke says shut when the accelerator is full open. The only way to get the choke open to 5/64", is to go about 6 lean clockwise. I think it's because I don't have that little tab on the bottom of my accelerator arm to push the choke open. Is this normal?
hey mike is there suppose to be a spring on the choke? i can not get my 4.3 merc 2 barrel carb to idle sometimes ..it drives great but has starting and idling issues ..when i play with the flap it moves freely ....any advice.... ?
Thanks Mike for the explanation. after rebuilt, engine not idling. If I push throttle it runs at 4k rpm. You mentioned to adjust a "tap" on 38:10 for adjusting the air valve at full throttle but in my carb, the throttle lever does not touch the air mechanism. No tap between. Any suggestions?
I purchased a rebuilt kit from your website for my Mercab on my mercruiser 3.0LX engine that was having flooding issues after running for a while. I was told it is the float letting gas after engine is off. After following your instructions and installing the new kit, I'm still having the same issue, not as often but fro time to time it stills floods to a point that I can only start the engine with the throttle 1/3 open. Any ideas what could be wrong? Thank you
I loved the video. It helped me alot with my carb. But when you put the fuel screen in you put the spring in then the screen. On the exploded view it shows the filter screen,spring,gasket,gasket and fitting. Is that right or wrong?
I recently purchased your rebuild kit for a carb off my 1984 Four Winns 160 Marquise Bow Rider with a Mercruiser 140. The kit included EVERYTHING and I received it in the mail very quickly. Thank You!! But I noticed a few things in your video that were different and the instructions were also not showing certain parts. Maybe it is that your rebuilding a newer model here, because mine has the older style straight plunger. I do have a question that is really bothering me as it may mean the difference between a running motor and another carb rebuild. I took everything apart, (this is far from my first carb rebuild, but it is my first marine one), I found the two check balls you both mention and show on this video. One under the screen and one under the "T" and spring. But when I cleaned the parts two more fell out from somewhere and I have no idea where they came from. Can you please let me know where or even if they are needed? Any help would be greatly appreciated. The # from my carb are: 13898490 3702
Just wanted to point out that in the two OEM rebuild kits I used to do my twin Merc 3.0s that the T retainer is stamped out of a thinner gauge material than the original and so is too sloppy when inserted to hold down the spring. If you find this then use your original thicker T.
thanks for the carb rebuild instructional video Mike. I have the mercarb also, well actually 2 of them, however one was running rich, and the other was leaking fuel into the manifold. I probably will do a rebuild. My question is this, and maybe it's a no brainer...should I rebuild the 1993 or the 1986 Mercarb? in your opinion, which one? both look to be in good condition, and the one that I will not rebuild. I will sell if anyone would be interested thanks. I look forward to your reply also I will check your site for the price of the rebuild kit
Just installed the kit but I must have missed something. Boat wont idle just dies. Will run rough if I hold it above 1500. Wot is great. New fuel pump fresh fuel and rebuild kit Installed. Any ideas?
Great video you didn't say much about the throttle body rod, mine had some play in it so I added an "o" ring, thinking it was an air leak, try to let me know if this was good or bad, P.S. mine has two mixture needle adjustments and does not seem to make a difference when all the way in or out 1.5 turns out???
Hi mike I have a mcm 1389-9564 on my 1987 165........ in the accelerator pump there is no screen or hold down clip or check ball....... am I suppose to have it???
Something else, I've noticed is that after several weeks of use, the fuel inlet screen cage has swelled severely so that it is jammed in the inlet nut and cannot be removed. I have contacted the rebuild kit company ( Walker) and have not received a reply.
been watching this several times and rebuilt mine. however I am running into fuel flooding my intake...so I am getting a no start (marine... mercruiser 3.7 165. I have taken my carb apart several times to check things... notice the power piston refuses to stay in its place. I can peen it in place...but just wondering what is causing fuel to just flow into my intake. accel pump works great. the float bowl is only half full each check...float is in spec. (using the spring needle and seat setup)
***** I used both the new and old floats...triple checked the 9/16 and 1 3/32 float height and drops. I have all my old parts too. I will check the check ball out. It is really frustrating because the engine will fire right off with a minimal amount of fuel..then refuse to start. I end up with 1/4 inch of gas in the manifold without even hitting the throttle. I know one of these days with all the gas I have been dealing with that something will prob blow up. thanks for the super fast reply..great videos..very straightforward
Going to attempt to rebuild mine...1996 mercruiser 5.7 2bbl carb hoping to fix my starting issue...boat starts off water first turn. When I put in water It takes a few cranks and have to open to full throttle to get it started does always end up starting and never bogs down or any restrictions while running.
Is it possible for a float to stick shut? I always thought the nylon floats would saturate and stick open. I have a 1989 merc 3.0L. After sitting a year, I can start the engine by pouring a little gas into the orifice on top of the carb into the float reservoir. The engine will run beautifully for about 20-30 seconds, but then it just quits. I cleaned in the small fuel filter on the carb, the filter on the fuel pump, and when I unscrew the fuel line at the carb, it has some fuel under pressure. I just don't get it. It's like fuel wants to get into the carb, but it just quits.
Obviously,the needle is either sticking and staying closed(a LOT of junk around it!?),OR the float is not free to move down; Either way,it's time to open up the carb.(which you've already done,for sure,lol). (Merc did a number on us,the steel fuel line RUSTS on the inside,and this rust ends up on the needle seat causing the carb to flood over,never seen it not filling up because of that).
Question about the needle, can i use the same type as it was before ? Or use the one with spring for example? How about the needle without spring? How to mount that..thanks
What are my options if i dont have the little tab on the accelerator arm. i cant get the gap in the choke ??? i also can not find the spring or no spring for float needle specks, the number on my carb is 1389-9350 and i see no specks any help would be great.
Hi Mike, just wanted to let you know you didn't point out the accelerator pump check ball and screen, I've been having acceleration issues due to the wrong check ball . I believe it should be the stainless-steel right?
Hello... Great video. I'm running into an issue where my Merc 3.0L starts up no problem, but once we're ready to go, i'll engage the prop with the throttle, and set it into a smooth idling speed (like a "no wake" speed), then when I'm ready to take off i'll depress the throttle and the motor will stall almost to the point of cutting out, then it'll roar and take off. I'm fairly handy with tools and followed your video. I'm going to buy a carb rebuild kit, but in the mean time, i took apart my carb and it actually looks really clean in there and the valves are moving smoothly, so i can't really figure out what is going on. I first thought the motor was choking out, but now i'm not sure... any thoughts? It's a 2002 so i'm not sure if perhaps the internals to the carb are just old and mildly corroded to the point where it's binding up? thanks!!!
I know this video is 8 years old…but idk nothing bout carbs but I can do anything in vehicles mid 90s up and I work on heavy machinery for a living. Think I could accomplish this with success beings I’m mechanically inclined? I think the mounting gasket is leaking on myn and when running my at idle runs fine but if I engage forward after about an inch or so after it engages sounds like the engine is just suckin hard lots of air…
Great video took my merc carb apart clean jets and filter checked the measurements put it all back together
Reinstalled runs like new
Rhanks
I ordered a rebuild kit from you and got it so fast. Thanks for helping me get back on the water so soon, you’re the best!!!👍🏻
Mike I was getting my butt kicked today on the same carb almost and learned something new. I also missed the center screw gasket twisting down with the screw that sprays the Venturi! I went back and looked at it spilling in underneath and said Oh my God! I pulled it and made a new one and it fixed my problem. I own a Mobile Marine Repair shop and it goes to show you that there is always more to learn every day. Thanks for posting this. Boat is turn key now after a slight timing tweek.
I should be good to go. Thank you for the training and carb kit. Also your fast shipping was great. Got it done just in time for the weekend.
Thanks for posting your carb rebuild video, i've definitely learned something. i just bought a 28' fiberform boat with twin 302 Merc motors. It'll be a definite challenge for me to get everything running. Thanks again.
Brilliant, exactly what I was looking for. May thanks, regards.
Perfect!
Thanks for this Mike!! Your kit arrived in 3 days. Your video was exactly what I needed to complete this rebuild. It only took me a couple hours from start to finish. Like he says in the video, take lots of pics of the more intricate steps, like the linkage and choke areas so you can assemble them easier.
Fantastic and super helpful. Thanks! I ordered my carb kit from you - it was easy to order and fit perfectly. Not all companies were as accurate or as helpful. Keep up the great service.
Parts 1 and 2 were a huge help. Thank you.
Mike- Thanks so much for taking the time to make this video. My carb rebuild went without a hiccup. I have a few points that along with your video made it almost effortless. 1- I bought the OEM base gaskets since the ones in the kit where thinner then OEM and numerous ppl have said it does make a difference. 2- Used a cheap ultrasonic cleaner with a heater to soak. Mixed 50:50 water and Simple Green Pro HD (purple). 3- As you stated in your video I didn't use the included washers for the main jets even though the OEM diagram shows to use them. 4- Used a drimmel to make a new notch in the old float seat when the screw driver and impact driver finally sheared off the top of the old one. Glad a new one is part of the kit.
Excellent video. Thank you so much! Listening to an experience tech is refreshing.
GR8 Video, Shows all the intricate little parts that have to go in exactly right,....
I think I will buy a New one at Sierra Marine
Thank you very much for all the detail. Finally got dad's old boat running again!
I recommend better lighting as you move forward with your videos. Slow down, and let people get a good look at the intricate parts.
Again thank you very much!
Mike, I purchased a rebuild kit from you a couple of months ago. I also purchased a brass float as I thought it would be better. After rebuilding the carb, the boat ran better than before, but still not well. Exhaust fumes were massive. After fishing for one full day, I checked the plugs and they were very black with carbon, meaning running rich. I disassembled the carb 3 times trying to re-adjust the float properly. Still ran worse and worse. I was about to order a rebuilt carb from another company and then decided to try it with the old float once again. Put it back on the boat and it runs perfectly. Turns out those brass floats do not have a mark on them on which to measure when installing. The old mere one does. I had tried to adjust that brass one both directions, measuring from the toe, etc etc. I would highly recommend you only sell the other type that has the little dots on it for measurement. Other than that, I have no complaints and was very happy with your rebuild kit.
Thanks ! greets from Poland :)
Ordering a kit today. Wish me luck!
Adjusted pump rod to spec. and replaced inlet filter screen, installed on engine and re-adjusted mixture and idle screws. Engine now runs well. It was a case of fuel starvation, as near as I could tell that limited the high RPM's.
Great video, thank you very much!
I used this video when it came out...still going strong!
rebilt carb seen video will try again will not idil thanks mike good stuff thanks again
Great stuff, Again thank you for sharing your experience
Thanks for the Video. I allowed a friend of mine who said he can build a carb build mine.... Made it worse! I've ordered my second kit and going to have at it again except this time I'm going to build it myself!
A fine screen (clogged up) in the anti-siphoning device in the fuel tank(s) was the main culprit in the fuel starvation scenario. The service manual made no mention of this. After 28 years of use, they both needed cleaned out.
I went and did all that rebuild and put the fuel filter in the carb the wrong way. Duh. I thought I failed at rebuilding it. I reversed the filter the correct way, and she started right up after 12 years of sitting in a driveway..
Beautiful
I think I may have figured it out. each time I took apart the carb the power piston fell out... as if it was always resting on the power valve..never letting the vacuum of the engine work properly to keep the extra fuel out! so when it goes back together..the power piston isn't even in its place. peen it?
I was on the right path...the power piston was loose and not fully seated in its recess. was resting on the power valve..and guess where all my fuel was coming from? word to the wise.... if you DO carburetor work and have a setup like this...make sure that your piston is fully seated in place!
Ok, I just finished rebuilding my 2BBl Mercarb. This is a great video.
I do have a question. My choke spring has sort of squared loop on the end, instead of just a flat spot for the lever to sit on the right side.
Do I put the lever inside the loop?
I would think so, because then the spring can help bring it back if the choke gets a little stuck. Right?
What cleaner do you recommend to dip the carb in after disassembly?
Also, when I set mine at 2 lean, the choke says shut when the accelerator is full open. The only way to get the choke open to 5/64", is to go about 6 lean clockwise.
I think it's because I don't have that little tab on the bottom of my accelerator arm to push the choke open.
Is this normal?
hey mike is there suppose to be a spring on the choke? i can not get my 4.3 merc 2 barrel carb to idle sometimes ..it drives great but has starting and idling issues ..when i play with the flap it moves freely ....any advice.... ?
Thanks Mike for the explanation. after rebuilt, engine not idling. If I push throttle it runs at 4k rpm. You mentioned to adjust a "tap" on 38:10 for adjusting the air valve at full throttle but in my carb, the throttle lever does not touch the air mechanism. No tap between. Any suggestions?
Are all 3 Jets the same?
Thanks for the instruction...now I'm going to do it!
I purchased a rebuilt kit from your website for my Mercab on my mercruiser 3.0LX engine that was having flooding issues after running for a while. I was told it is the float letting gas after engine is off. After following your instructions and installing the new kit, I'm still having the same issue, not as often but fro time to time it stills floods to a point that I can only start the engine with the throttle 1/3 open. Any ideas what could be wrong? Thank you
I loved the video. It helped me alot with my carb. But when you put the fuel screen in you put the spring in then the screen. On the exploded view it shows the filter screen,spring,gasket,gasket and fitting. Is that right or wrong?
Did I miss the accelerator pump ball and retainer going in? Can you point out the time?
I recently purchased your rebuild kit for a carb off my 1984 Four Winns 160 Marquise Bow Rider with a Mercruiser 140. The kit included EVERYTHING and I received it in the mail very quickly. Thank You!! But I noticed a few things in your video that were different and the instructions were also not showing certain parts. Maybe it is that your rebuilding a newer model here, because mine has the older style straight plunger. I do have a question that is really bothering me as it may mean the difference between a running motor and another carb rebuild. I took everything apart, (this is far from my first carb rebuild, but it is my first marine one), I found the two check balls you both mention and show on this video. One under the screen and one under the "T" and spring. But when I cleaned the parts two more fell out from somewhere and I have no idea where they came from. Can you please let me know where or even if they are needed? Any help would be greatly appreciated. The # from my carb are: 13898490 3702
Just wanted to point out that in the two OEM rebuild kits I used to do my twin Merc 3.0s that the T retainer is stamped out of a thinner gauge material than the original and so is too sloppy when inserted to hold down the spring. If you find this then use your original thicker T.
thanks for the carb rebuild instructional video Mike. I have the mercarb also, well actually 2 of them, however one was running rich, and the other was leaking fuel into the manifold. I probably will do a rebuild.
My question is this, and maybe it's a no brainer...should I rebuild the 1993 or the 1986 Mercarb? in your opinion, which one? both look to be in good condition, and the one that I will not rebuild. I will sell if anyone would be interested
thanks. I look forward to your reply
also I will check your site for the price of the rebuild kit
Just installed the kit but I must have missed something. Boat wont idle just dies. Will run rough if I hold it above 1500. Wot is great. New fuel pump fresh fuel and rebuild kit Installed. Any ideas?
Great video you didn't say much about the throttle body rod, mine had some play in it so I added an "o" ring, thinking it was an air leak, try to let me know if this was good or bad, P.S. mine has two mixture needle adjustments and does not seem to make a difference when all the way in or out 1.5 turns out???
Followed all instructions and adjustments...boat can't get above 2800 rpm...missing and sounds like its being starved of fuel. Idles fine...any ideas?
Some of the Mercarbs are also three piece.
Hi mike I have a mcm 1389-9564 on my 1987 165........ in the accelerator pump there is no screen or hold down clip or check ball....... am I suppose to have it???
Something else, I've noticed is that after several weeks of use, the fuel inlet screen cage has swelled severely so that it is jammed in the inlet nut and cannot be removed. I have contacted the rebuild kit company ( Walker) and have not received a reply.
been watching this several times and rebuilt mine. however I am running into fuel flooding my intake...so I am getting a no start (marine... mercruiser 3.7 165. I have taken my carb apart several times to check things... notice the power piston refuses to stay in its place. I can peen it in place...but just wondering what is causing fuel to just flow into my intake. accel pump works great. the float bowl is only half full each check...float is in spec. (using the spring needle and seat setup)
***** I used both the new and old floats...triple checked the 9/16 and 1 3/32 float height and drops. I have all my old parts too. I will check the check ball out. It is really frustrating because the engine will fire right off with a minimal amount of fuel..then refuse to start. I end up with 1/4 inch of gas in the manifold without even hitting the throttle. I know one of these days with all the gas I have been dealing with that something will prob blow up. thanks for the super fast reply..great videos..very straightforward
Going to attempt to rebuild mine...1996 mercruiser 5.7 2bbl carb hoping to fix my starting issue...boat starts off water first turn. When I put in water It takes a few cranks and have to open to full throttle to get it started does always end up starting and never bogs down or any restrictions while running.
This is a year ago....but I have the exact same issue.
Is it possible for a float to stick shut? I always thought the nylon floats would saturate and stick open.
I have a 1989 merc 3.0L. After sitting a year, I can start the engine by pouring a little gas into the orifice on top of the carb into the float reservoir. The engine will run beautifully for about 20-30 seconds, but then it just quits. I cleaned in the small fuel filter on the carb, the filter on the fuel pump, and when I unscrew the fuel line at the carb, it has some fuel under pressure. I just don't get it. It's like fuel wants to get into the carb, but it just quits.
Obviously,the needle is either sticking and staying closed(a LOT of junk around it!?),OR the float is not free to move down;
Either way,it's time to open up the carb.(which you've already done,for sure,lol).
(Merc did a number on us,the steel fuel line RUSTS on the inside,and this rust ends up on the needle seat causing the carb to flood over,never seen it not filling up because of that).
Question about the needle, can i use the same type as it was before ? Or use the one with spring for example? How about the needle without spring? How to mount that..thanks
Mikes Carburetor Thank You, and How to adjust float on Mercarb? Using the ruler or how? Thanks!!
What are my options if i dont have the little tab on the accelerator arm. i cant get the gap in the choke ??? i also can not find the spring or no spring for float needle specks, the number on my carb is 1389-9350 and i see no specks any help would be great.
@@MikesCarburetor great thank you. Awesome vids..
Hi Mike, just wanted to let you know you didn't point out the accelerator pump check ball and screen, I've been having acceleration issues due to the wrong check ball . I believe it should be the stainless-steel right?
Thank you for the info and a great carb kit , I’ll be using a donor carb to confirm the issue was the check ball.
Hello... Great video. I'm running into an issue where my Merc 3.0L starts up no problem, but once we're ready to go, i'll engage the prop with the throttle, and set it into a smooth idling speed (like a "no wake" speed), then when I'm ready to take off i'll depress the throttle and the motor will stall almost to the point of cutting out, then it'll roar and take off. I'm fairly handy with tools and followed your video. I'm going to buy a carb rebuild kit, but in the mean time, i took apart my carb and it actually looks really clean in there and the valves are moving smoothly, so i can't really figure out what is going on. I first thought the motor was choking out, but now i'm not sure... any thoughts? It's a 2002 so i'm not sure if perhaps the internals to the carb are just old and mildly corroded to the point where it's binding up? thanks!!!
Im having the same issue, did you find the cause?
im also having same issuee,got any ideals???
I also have this issue - will a carb rebuild fix it?
Anyone find a solution?
Where can I order a new power piston? It did not come with the kit! You left yours in it in this video at 24:07 seconds. Thanks in advance.
@@MikesCarburetor thanks
I know this video is 8 years old…but idk nothing bout carbs but I can do anything in vehicles mid 90s up and I work on heavy machinery for a living. Think I could accomplish this with success beings I’m mechanically inclined? I think the mounting gasket is leaking on myn and when running my at idle runs fine but if I engage forward after about an inch or so after it engages sounds like the engine is just suckin hard lots of air…
Btw I can see liquid on one corner of the carb where it mounts to engine…that’s why I think gasket is bad…
@@MikesCarburetor thanks for the reply. I’ll definitely check the link you sent me.
more light please .