Chevy Blazer / S10 Brake Booster Replacement | Silverado, Tahoe, Suburban, All Chevy Trucks/Suvs
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- čas přidán 30. 07. 2024
- ill show you how to replace your brake booster in your Chevrolet chevy s10 and chevy blazer. The brake booster as you guys know in the Chevrolet chevy s10 and chevy Chevrolet blazer is no easy task so im sure this video will help alot of you guys out!
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0:00 intro
0:28 Diagnosing Bad Brake Booster
0:58 Removing Master Cylinder
1:42 Remove Front Seat
1:54 Remove Bottom Kick Plate
2:29 Remove Top Kick Plate
3:04 Locate Brake Booster Nuts
3:45 How to Remove Brake Booster
4:03 How To Remove Brake Booster Retaining Pin
4:35 Tools You Will Need To Remove Brake Booster
5:00 Pulling Out Brake Booster
6:19 Installing New Brake Booster
6:43 Securing New Brake Booster
7:03 Reinstalling Kick Plates
7:46 Reinstalling Master Cylinder
8:07 Reinstalling Air Hoses And Sensors - Jak na to + styl
I've reviewed several CZcams tutorials on this project but I think I found the best. This guy suggested taking out the driver's seat which should make it much easier.
2003 S10. Replaced the booster last night. Your video is excellent and really helped; especially with the tip to use the 15mm pass through sockets on the top inside nut next to the steering column.
Thank you!
So I ( with my husband & daughters help) used this video to help us replace my brake booster. 1 thank you for making the video it really helped. For those looking in the comments for extra help here are some suggestions.
1. When you remove the carpet there's going to be foam and a leather like plastic behind everything. Cut as much of that out as possible.
2. Make sure you have all the tools he mentions. Especially the pass-through socket wrench. On some things you can use an impact gun.
3. If you can, start with the top-right bolt first before the other three. The other three are the easiest & quickest.
4. As for time length, it took about 2 1/2 hrs. Please note, the 1 & 1/2 hrs is from that freaking bolt in the right-hand corner. 🤣😂
I'm in the process of doing one right now. I had to leave work to go to harbor freight to get some pass thrus lol
I can’t wait! 😅
The process in the video was good. It was much harder to do than the video portrayed. Access to the four bolts in the cab under the dash were not visible until the floor covering was cut away, not easy. The video skipped this part to cut away the covering to access the bolt nuts. My 2001 S10 had a 4.3 V6, the brake line manifold was a bit different. I had to remove the Fuse Box bolts to slide it forward and the manifold to create more space to remove and install the Power Brake Booster Assembly. I spent six hour total to complete the job not counting driving to get tools and parts. Without removing the driver seat it would have been impossible to do the job requiring a T50 hex tool to remove one of the four seat bolts/nuts The Pash Through Wrench is a must. FYI: My old Booster boot sleeve remained in the firewall slot which I did not notice until after I tried to install the new Booster. I had to remove the old Booster boot before installing the new booster. The old boot sleeve was preventing installation of the new. A freaking lesson learned.😊
Thanks for the tips!
Just finished replacing the break booster on a 1999 s10 zr2. Video was a big help. (Confession time) how many s10 are out there missing that top right bolt.
Lol probably a lot haha my blazer will be lol
I just did this with my 99 s10. Let me say this...I wouldn't wish this repair on my worst enemy! It took me 8hrs to get the top right nut off the booster. It took me 1hr to get the new booster in locked down and the truck put back together, yall want to know the trick? DONT PUT ON THE TOP RIGHT BOLT WHEN INSTALLING THE NEW BOOSTER. simply torque down the other 3 as much as u can and it will hold just as tight and u eliminate the hassle of the top right nut.
Congrats. Finley someone that knows what they are doing. This video helped me save a couple hundred bucks by doing this job by myself on my driveway... THANKS AGAIN.
Absolutely!!!
Been working on a 99 Jimmy for a few days now and after bleeding the brakes, replacing the master cylinder, I’ve come to find that it is most likely a bad booster. Thank you for briefly explaining the tools you used and what to expect/what makes it easier for us. 💪🏼
Very precise , quality video, no title screen intro just right to the point. A+ , thank you!
Great video! Excellent information, camera work and production.
If I was going to offer any advice, it would be to not reassemble the dash until you've completed the underhood installation and tested that everything works properly. It's rare, but you never know when you'll get a bad part and have to reverse the procedure.
Very true. Good point. Glad you enjoyed the video!
great video...BUT you do not NEED the pass through socket set. a 5/8 spark plug socket with the hex end and a 3/4 box end wrench, preferably ratchet wrench, works well even though the 5/8 is incorrect size.
Dude you are bad ass!!! Thank you I have never had to do this on any of my S10's and or Blazers. This is going to be my 1st time replacing the brake booster...
Thanks for the video man. Wife left me; got a 96 sky blue blazer 160k miles for $800..body is mint, brand new tires, interior is cherry; brake booster is completely bad. I didnt think I would be able to change it myself but after your video I'm going to order it off rockauto and give it a go. Very informative video, keep up the good work.
Be sure to check that link out i have in the description for the pass thru wrench! You'll need it 100% only way to get that top right nut off!
If you got any questions leave a comment and I'll get back to you asap!
Got an o'reilly reman booster on an 08 trailblazer and the front brakes stay sightly engaged causing them too overheat. The pin seems too long and I didn't keep the pin out of the stock one since the reman is suppose to be a direct replacement. I'm going to try another one tomorrow but I feel like it's going to have the same issue. Can I grind down that pin? It's not adjustable at all anywhere on this thing.
Nicely done. Good camera shots. My new CRP 123 giving me left front speed sensor circuit open. Remanufactured transmission got one light off my dashboard. ABS next. 2000 Chevy S10 extended 4x4. Going to look for a video on it, possibly you did one.
Thanks for your efforts, helps all DIY mechanics.
Great video Buddy! Easy to follow and very helpful.
Absolutely brother! Glad you enjoyed the video!
Thanks for the tip on the top right nut really helped 👍👍👍
That top right nut is the worst design in modern automotive history hahah
Is there any adjusting to be done on the pin in the booster and the master cylinder? I keep reading about it but there’s no adjusting bolt for the booster I have for 2003 GMC Sonoma 4.3l.
My brakes just completely went out the other day on my 96 s10. Fixed the leaks, got a new vacuum hose, blead the brakes like 4 times before I finally came to the conclusion that it's my brake booster. Gotta pick it up later today.
I had a caliper blow on the back rear and rebled the brakes and new master cylinder. Pedal creeps down and won't stay stiff. Doing BB today.
Hey man I really appreciate your video, the tips you shared with me on this job made it a lot easier for me thanks.
👍FINS UP 👍 👋😁
Thank you so much for this video. as to the upper right bolt. It is everything they say it is and more. I tried the pass thru socket, tried flex neck gear wrench, tried the sparkplug socket gear wrench methods. none of them are easy but, my success came going over the top of the upper left bolt using the pass thru rachet and double stacking the 3/4 and 15mm sockets for a little more separation from the firewall. Again, thank you for a great reference.
I saw that in another video and took note 📝
Any idea what a time frame for replace the brake booster is? I have to do my 2001 gmc jimmy 4.3l vortec so I’m assuming it’s the same.
Just used this video to help me replace mine, thank you very much sir.
Yo buddy. Thanks man, I just put the brake booster in my chevy s10. This saved me some dough. That 12 inch wrench extension was clutch.
No prob brother 💪
Thanks one ? did you have to cut out around it before getting to those bolts?
98 s10
Bought with cut lines and non running
Since have getting running moving and replaced everything (absolutely everything in the brake system but the abs module and booster)
When the truck is off 1-2 pumps of the brakes get hard as a rock but when running it goes to the floor like there’s a cut line
Yes I’ve bled it 9 times 4 different ways
Bad Booster ?
Good video sharp and to the point
I love the video it is very informative the only thing I'm having trouble with is the top right I was able to get the new brake booster into position and take the old one out but for some reason because the nut is at the end of the long screw thing it doesn't give me any room for my pastor wrench even though I have the smallest one that fits the bolt 🔩
I just did the job myself and the duralast pass through wrench works excellent it's a small handle and it's straight so you can go over the top of the pen for the booster to get it that last night you cannot get it from the sides you have to go over the top from the left nut straight across to the right
Hello. Your video is good. I am an apprentice mechanic in Sinaloa, Mexico. I was able to remove it with a 15mm socket. greetings and encouragement
Thanks done mine today using this video
Awesome video and deserves a subscribe! Gonna be doing this in a few days, unfortunately 😅
Yeah how about the sound deadening that is 1 piece all the up behind the dash to almost center hvac...edit: ZERO of the 4 nuts are visible until ypu remove factory sound deadening...it encapsulates the dust shield of booster on interior side. Maybe it's a ZR2 thing; who knows
Great video bro thanks
thank you for the video. Qucik question i had changed my brake booster now it won't go into gear unless I put into netural in accessory mode first then start up. I haven't bleed the sysyem yet i will in the morning but can they possibly be the problem?
Do your brake lights even come on when you hit the brake??
Sounds like your BTSI. There is a fuse that may have blown. Or the BTSI solenoid is shot.
Anyone know if 1994 s10 blazer brake booster v6 4.3 li and the ones made for 1996 s10 blazer brake booster v6 4.3 li the same part?
Excellent!!!! Thanks
Great video please keep up the great work and please keep safe
Han you elaborate on how take off the retaining pin? Mine does not so easily click on and off
Great break down. 👌
I have the same problem with my chevy blazer brake booster. Do i need to bleed the whole brake system after replacing it?
No sir. Remmeber how I was talking about no having to bleed IF you don't remove any brake lines. You should be good to go brother
What's the best way to remove the top right bolt from the inside?
Great video! I am having a nightmare of a time trying to figure a soft pedal when running. no one here can figure it out. bleed the system over and over. even had the abs bleed out with a hand tuner, then had the pressure bleed done. still same. So im going to start replacing parts . Booster seems to work doing the remove vac pedal is hard . but put back on soft pedal to the floor. motor off 2 pumps pedal rock hard , so master test fine? everyone keeps still saying booster?
When bleeding them let out the petal super slow and do that 5 or 6 times. SUPER SLOW!!!
Great video! It is a mess under that dash! Lol
Okay my brake booster sounded nothing like that but the pedal is getting stiff and I hear an air hissing noise when I step on the brakes any idea?
This is the exact situation my 02 Blazer has right now, was it the brake booster?
Estoy pensando quitar mi boster de una bravada 96 ahora ya ví en tu vídeo como hacerlo gracias
When you plug the hose, how do you rule out that the problem could just be the brake booster check valve?
Great job ❤
The duralast pass through wrench from advanced Auto parts works a lot better with a straighter handle so you can go across the top to get that right hand nut it makes it a heck of a lot easier
I have a 2000 Chevy Blazer ZR2. Any tips for getting the top right bolt off? There seems to be more in the way than non-ZR2 models.
You gotta use a pass through wrench. I have a link in description for you guys. Only way to get it out man
@@BuddysDIY I do have the pass through wrench but it seems like there are more brackets on the steering column for the zr2 model.
@@BuddysDIY is it essential to put threadlocker back on the brake booster studs?
Buddy you did such an amazingly detailed and easy to understand tutorial on this not so easy task that i had to subscribe. I have glanced at your other videos and they all seem interesting. Excellent job Buddy!!! I am looking forward to more content.
Thank you brother I appreciate it if you haven't already checked out the car flipping videos they're everybody's favorite!
Great video brother. 👍🇺🇲
ill be trying this Friday
Be careful to not discount the vacuum line underneath the abs computer it goes to the vacuum canister in the fender and affects the HVAC.
So if you do this job and the your heater and ac controls aren’t working properly reconnect the short vacuum line
Good tip!! Thanks for sharing
Who makes the pass through wrench?
you forgot a step, attaching the pedal to the booster
Good video i have a 96 blazer i replace my brake booster my question is why my break pedal gets stuck after i warm the vehicle them i use my feet to release the pedal then it goes to normal it does not get stuck no more
So you replaced your brake booster and now youre having the stuck brake petal issue?
@@BuddysDIY yes
@@mrztyga2010 and you said after the truck warms up all the way it will go away?
@@BuddysDIY yes that only happens every morning and also sometimes in the even after work when i press the break pedal to change gear that is not normal
@@mrztyga2010 did you bleed the brake after you changed the booster?
Hey buddy,
I have a question. I just purchased a used Chevy S10. And My brake pedal gets really hard when I start to drive. my brakes stick to the point where I can't move my truck. I've replaced brake lines front calipers and brakes. rear Cylinders and breaks and also the master cylinder. Is it a possibility that the brake booster is bad and that's why I am receiving this issue?
ohh man, are your brakes locking up when you push down?? Or Does It just Feel Like There Is too much pressure when you hit the brakes?
If you know how Pressure test your system for vacuum leaks. If you find one, then plug the brake booster vac line and repeat the test. If the leak goes away (or drastically slows down due to small leak elsewhere) then you know your brake booster diaphragm is blown out.
I did the vacuum test and I have no leaks in the vacuum system. when It feels like there is too much pressure when I'm hitting the brakes that's when they all start to lock up. But if I turn off the truck wait about 30 minutes all the brakes are free again. And this is the weird part if I start the truck in the morning the brakes are completely fine but if you let the truck idle for about 5 to 10 minutes without moving the truck the brakes lock up on there own. so this is what has me thinking maybe it's the brake booster cuz I literally replaced everything except the ABS pump.
I really dont think the ABS pump can do that. But im also not a huge fan of just throwing parts at things not knowing the issue. I would double check to make sure all your lines and calps are sealed and there is zero leaks on them. Then id say go ahead and try the booster. You pretty much replaced everything lese so youre kinda outta options haha
Deff let me know what it turns out to be 💪💪
guestion the booster push rod that come out and pressing on back master cylinder is that thing real easy get out mine just pulls right out I don't think there that easy I'm working on 2000 blazer trying figure why my peddle real soft goes floor new master cylinder new pads new brake calipers bleed all wheels I'm thinking bad booster
OMG that is a frickin task to do!
It's definitely a process
@@BuddysDIY I noticed last night after getting off work my break pedal went to the floor but I wasnt able to see if it was my break line or not I guess we'll see tomorrow.
@@ipaxton yeah a sudden collapse I. Pressure is probably a line
@@BuddysDIY Yep it was my left brake line I had it replaced last week but your video was very informative.
super detailed video!
That's the goal
Super detailed huh ? Calling a nut a screw. Calling a retaining clip a pin. Calling a ratchet wrench a socket. Refers to 4 7mm screws as 8mm then upon reassembly, correctly calls them 7mm.
I see youtube channel has really tooken off. Maybe you should manage mine since you're so good!
Was the brake pedal spongy ?
You Asking Before the brake booster was replaced?
Yes. My 99 s10 brake pedal feels spongy and the brake light came on dashboard wondering if it’s the booster pump
@@sosa30086 yea it was squishy. But also that could be air in your brake lines. Try ans bleed the brakes on her. It'll cost way less, maybe a few bucks and see it it helps.
These trucks naturally have kind of squishy brakes. Even with the new booster and fresh brakr fluid they are no here near as firm as my other cars
Ok thanks a lot for the help it just started. 2 days ago after having the truck for. 2 years gonna look into it and get back on the road safely
Yeah sounds to me like air. Brake bleed. If its still squishy id then test if there is a vaccum leak. Pressure test your system for vacuum leaks. If you find one, then plug the brake booster vac line and repeat the test. If the leak goes away (or drastically slows down due to small leak elsewhere) then you know your brake booster diaphragm is blown out.
Also consiter subbing ;) super familiar with the truck and fixed alot of it already. You can shoot me a comment anytime 💪
Holy God damn fuck, that is insane, I'm not doing that. Jesus fucking Christ, dude, I'll stick with manual brakes. Thank you for posting this, before I started tearing shit apart.
Yeah it's a bit if a pain in the dick
@@BuddysDIY Hot damn man, I got it. Thank you very much for posting this, & thank you to this guy czcams.com/video/ooWc6kGVmmw/video.html for the plug socket trick.
One other thing I recommend (since the booster is bad anyway) is to get a Dremel & just cut off that damned rod that connects to the pedal. It'll give you a bit more wiggle room.
Thanks again, & good luck to anyone else unfortunate enough to have this setup.
sir you did not show how you got to the upper right bolt under the dash
Pass thru wrench
Tooken? I think you mean "taken " . ( in reply to your comment that was a reply to my comment that you must have deleted)
excellent video but you never showed how to remove all the bolts
Use a 5/8 spark plug socket and a a swivel socket with a 7 inch extention and you can get to all 4 bolts I just did mine 97 sonoma
How long did the job take you?
About 2.5 hours. It was a pain forsure. But with that special wrench in the link it makes life so much easier
You didnt show how to prime the master
You didn't connect the brake pedal
This is definitely not the same process on a 95 Blazer 4x4, way more brake lines in the way and there is some brackets making the interior bolts completely different to take off.