Thanks, Jack! I guess it can be as complicated and time consuming as you want to make it. You can be competitive without much work at all. At the other end of the spectrum, you can optimize every little thing, like removing unnecessary wire from the wiring looms. This build will be somewhere in the middle, doing things that I think are best bang for the buck and make the car more reliable and easier to work on. Turning wrenches on a car in my man-cave is therapeutic, though, so I'm happy to jam some 80s hair metal and wrench away.
@@joshc1017 Sometimes therapeutic, sometimes it causes me to seek out therapy (or just throw a wrench here and there). That said, I've been looking more and more into Spec Corvette but wonder how bad the consumables are (as opposed to say my Spec Miata which seems to only need pads once a year, rotors every few years and tires seem to be the biggest cost so far).
@@jackroman8821 I go through 2 sets of front brake pads per season and 2-3 sets on the rear (I run lower temp pad back there). Front rotors last 1.5 to 2 seasons. I’m on my 3rd season with the rear rotors and they’re still going strong. Tires are competitive for 3-4 race weekends, depending on how much test and tune you add in. That’s the biggest cost savings, at least compared to other classes that I’ve run in that required a new set every weekend. There isn’t a lot of other maintenance; just fluid changes and the occasional thing that breaks. Failure points are well known so you’re wise to follow the allowed modifications in the rules, like swapping the stock hubs with SKF racing hubs, etc.
I take it your power mirror control didn't make it back in, so do you just adjust manually by hand before a race? I always power adjust the mirrors on grid once I'm all strapped in to be just right before going out on track since they're so small
Yes, I did not put the door module and card back in, so I adjust them manually. No issues so far but it would be a bummer to have the passenger side knocked out of place when already I’m buckled in at pre-grid.
It’s never been a problem for me in a C5, but I’ve only done 3 of them personally. I’ve used dry ice to remove undercoating on other cars, like the EP RX7 that I built, and it worked great. Chipped out clean with a hammer.
Not sure. The car is at Spec Racing for the cage now. I’ll get a closer look at the lights when I get it back. Not sure if I’ll be able to keep them though. May need to put in stock covers to meet the rules.
@@joshc1017 ah I see. Ya i just got an 03’ z06 I am converting to hpde, was thinking of swapping the headlights or maybe just keep the covers and gut them
@@Radron26 Yeah, if you want to keep it Spec legal, it's best to retain the stock covers. The question about lights like these is whether they generate any additional downforce due to the raised profile. I do recommend getting the buckets out, regardless. They break easily and replacements are getting harder to source, which means they're getting pricey. Replacement covers are no big deal.
Cool video, looks like a lot of work. Should make for a nice Spec Vette when it's done.
Thanks, Jack! I guess it can be as complicated and time consuming as you want to make it. You can be competitive without much work at all. At the other end of the spectrum, you can optimize every little thing, like removing unnecessary wire from the wiring looms. This build will be somewhere in the middle, doing things that I think are best bang for the buck and make the car more reliable and easier to work on. Turning wrenches on a car in my man-cave is therapeutic, though, so I'm happy to jam some 80s hair metal and wrench away.
@@joshc1017 Sometimes therapeutic, sometimes it causes me to seek out therapy (or just throw a wrench here and there). That said, I've been looking more and more into Spec Corvette but wonder how bad the consumables are (as opposed to say my Spec Miata which seems to only need pads once a year, rotors every few years and tires seem to be the biggest cost so far).
@@jackroman8821 I go through 2 sets of front brake pads per season and 2-3 sets on the rear (I run lower temp pad back there). Front rotors last 1.5 to 2 seasons. I’m on my 3rd season with the rear rotors and they’re still going strong. Tires are competitive for 3-4 race weekends, depending on how much test and tune you add in. That’s the biggest cost savings, at least compared to other classes that I’ve run in that required a new set every weekend. There isn’t a lot of other maintenance; just fluid changes and the occasional thing that breaks. Failure points are well known so you’re wise to follow the allowed modifications in the rules, like swapping the stock hubs with SKF racing hubs, etc.
I take it your power mirror control didn't make it back in, so do you just adjust manually by hand before a race?
I always power adjust the mirrors on grid once I'm all strapped in to be just right before going out on track since they're so small
Yes, I did not put the door module and card back in, so I adjust them manually. No issues so far but it would be a bummer to have the passenger side knocked out of place when already I’m buckled in at pre-grid.
Would you still recommend dry ice for removal of carpet? Just in case it doesn't come off as easy as yours
It’s never been a problem for me in a C5, but I’ve only done 3 of them personally. I’ve used dry ice to remove undercoating on other cars, like the EP RX7 that I built, and it worked great. Chipped out clean with a hammer.
Where have you been selling your airbags? I've got 4 old airbags sitting in the garage.
Awesome! What brand headlights are those?
Not sure. The car is at Spec Racing for the cage now. I’ll get a closer look at the lights when I get it back. Not sure if I’ll be able to keep them though. May need to put in stock covers to meet the rules.
@@joshc1017 ah I see. Ya i just got an 03’ z06 I am converting to hpde, was thinking of swapping the headlights or maybe just keep the covers and gut them
@@Radron26 Yeah, if you want to keep it Spec legal, it's best to retain the stock covers. The question about lights like these is whether they generate any additional downforce due to the raised profile. I do recommend getting the buckets out, regardless. They break easily and replacements are getting harder to source, which means they're getting pricey. Replacement covers are no big deal.
@@joshc1017 ok, awesome! I will do that for now. Right, no idea about the df from those lights. I just wanted to take some weight off
@@joshc1017 but popups tho