Can’t believe I didn’t see this video last week! I did exactly the same thing in a basement project, just mitered the corners tight and glued it. Great video!
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Watched your video, it was great...the guy that installed my VERY expensive LVP floors is definitely NOT a trim carpenter. I have never seen such a screw-up in all my life, several areas too, not just around the hearth either. I don't know where you are located but I sure wish I could hire you to fix his mess!
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What angle did you cut those outside corners? I did mine at 45 degrees and they do not connect without a gap unless I install the molding flat. I tried raising it like you did but 45 not working
Yeah, it can be a tricky cut. You have to set it in the saw the same way it would be sitting on your floor. Kinda like cutting crown molding. You can't lay it flat and then try to nail it on the ceiling. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
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Oh okay. That is a great question that I really should have addressed in the video. I measured from the floor to the top of the hearth. Then I ripped a small piece of wood to rest the to] of the transition on so it would be at.the same angle as the hearth. Kinda like cutting crown mold in place against the fence. If I would have just layed it flat... your right the miters would not fit together without gaps. Sounds like another quick tip. Thanks for the question
My exterior doors have a threshold that is flush with the wall so my transition stops have a raw edge sticking out past the casing. I was considering doing this same method in the doorway to eliminate that raw edge. What do you think?
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I would still use c.a. glue to put it all together, but I would use pl 3x and hot glue in combination. The pl 3x in small globs and then in between ,I put little squirts of hot glue to help hold the transition down while the pl 3x cures. I've also used boxes of flooring as weight to hold it down. It should be okay after a few hours, but after 24 hours, it is rock solid. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
I usually figur out the height difference and set a shim on the back of my saw table. This will elevate the back so when I cot a 45° , it's sitting the way it would on the floor. Just like cutting crown molding. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
@@YOUFLOOR Thanks for the reply, I did try that, but struggling with the gap that is left, I think Im just not articulating the degree that I am cutting off to close up the center where the pieces meet?
I really need your help- I moved into house and had tile removed all the way up to fireplace (tile is around and then bricks) a week later, water started pouring in from the rain and went under the new laminate floor- now there is a HUGE gap- what can I use to seal area from laminate to tile?
Well if I was just going in and doing it it would've taken about an hour. But filming it took almost two. Our minimum daily price is 350.00 that's about a 6 to 8 hour day. But for just an hour. Still have to pull out many tools and put them away. Plus gas is outrageous so my honest answer is around 125.00 to 150.00 ( dependingbon concrete or wood subfloor) maybe 100.00 to 125.00 for a friend. If Im in a great mood lol. Hope that helps. Great question
One more thing if it's for someone who cares nothing about price and you can deliver the goods, you can get 200. 00 I mean who else can do it like you. Certainly not the home owner or he wouldn't call you. Heard a great quote.. " cheap work ain't good but good work ain't cheap" thanks again for the question . Love those kind👍
@@YOUFLOOR thank you very much. I appreciate you replying back to me. 🙏🙏. I'm a beginner handyman and watching your videos has helped me grow and understand more. Thanks 👍.
So is it fine to install LVP in a family room that has a wood stove? I’m thinking of doing this. There is a raised hearth and the stove stove on top of that.
I think that would be fine. As long as you don't have heat blowing constantly. We had one of those blow heaters sitting on a small piece of plywood years back and it bubbled up the lvp about a foot. Was weird cause it all fell back down when it cooled off but it could have been a disaster. So your situation sounds pretty standard. Check the floor now and just see how hot it gets too be sure before you get committed. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
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Just spent $15K on LVP for living room, dining room, family room, downstairs bedroom, bathroom and two closets. They wouldn’t touch the fireplace hearth. Left the marble exposed for someone to break their fkng toes. I’m very upset needless to say
@P. Sherman reading through the comments again and wondering if you ever got this fixed? Would love to see pics of this if you don't mind sending them - you can email them to youfloor.net@gmail.com Also trying to let everyone know I am giving tools away for Christmas - if you are interested in entering you can find all the details here - - - - - > czcams.com/video/iQOXh0b-_dg/video.html
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Thank you. There are so many of these type fireplaces in homes but this is the only video I found for tackling how to work around the hearth.
You got it, Stacey . Hope you're able to knock it out. Thanks for the comment
Them oscillating tools are seriously the new tradesmen gift from the blue collar gods.
Absolutely.Not even sure what we did before they existed
@@YOUFLOOR
a lot of swearing!
😄
I like that the fireplace marble matches the hearthstone.
How old is the house?
I believe the customer said it was built in the late 90s. But not really positive. Thanks for the comments
Thank you so much for this!!!! You saved me so much time and headache.
Hey Leo, I'm glad it worked out for ya. Thanks for the comment
Can’t believe I didn’t see this video last week! I did exactly the same thing in a basement project, just mitered the corners tight and glued it. Great video!
Right on brother. You already know. Thanks for the comment
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What are your thoughts about going up tight on just 10% of the whole floor and the rest of the 90% 1/4 inches out?
Watched your video, it was great...the guy that installed my VERY expensive LVP floors is definitely NOT a trim carpenter. I have never seen such a screw-up in all my life, several areas too, not just around the hearth either. I don't know where you are located but I sure wish I could hire you to fix his mess!
I'm in the Nashville area. Sorry to hear about this. Wish I could help. Let me know if you're close.
That’s beautiful 🥹
Ty
Loved the comment about Thumb or Finger touch , a few weeks ago I was playing with some fiberglass resin it didn't take much 🙄
Yep I've had to use my pin for a weeks until the fingerprints came back🤣 thanks for the comment
I think I might use this. Looks better than the other transitions I have seen.
👍
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Thank you so much. I'm going try this. Wish you would come to my house
What area do you live in?
What angle did you cut those outside corners? I did mine at 45 degrees and they do not connect without a gap unless I install the molding flat. I tried raising it like you did but 45 not working
Yeah, it can be a tricky cut. You have to set it in the saw the same way it would be sitting on your floor. Kinda like cutting crown molding. You can't lay it flat and then try to nail it on the ceiling. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
GREAT JOB LETS GO!
Thank you sir
Link for the nail popper/setter would be awesome!
amzn.to/3XCYHZQ
@Jennifer Rae Fuchek I'm reaching out to my commenters to make sure you know I am giving some tools away for Christmas. If you are interested in entering click here for details - - - - - > czcams.com/video/iQOXh0b-_dg/video.html
Did you bevel the cuts on the lvp, or just 45 them? Great work!
What do you mean by bevel. Are you referring to the transitions or the actual flooring. Thanks for the question
@@YOUFLOOR Sorry, the transitions. Did you simply miter them at a 45? Or did you do anything else to make them join when you glued them?
Oh okay. That is a great question that I really should have addressed in the video. I measured from the floor to the top of the hearth. Then I ripped a small piece of wood to rest the to] of the transition on so it would be at.the same angle as the hearth. Kinda like cutting crown mold in place against the fence. If I would have just layed it flat... your right the miters would not fit together without gaps. Sounds like another quick tip. Thanks for the question
Well done. Too bad the the trim does match the color of the floor.
❤❤❤❤
My exterior doors have a threshold that is flush with the wall so my transition stops have a raw edge sticking out past the casing. I was considering doing this same method in the doorway to eliminate that raw edge. What do you think?
Sounds like you found the solution. Good luck. Let me know how it turned out
@Rebecca Lawson I'm reaching out to my commenters to make sure you know I am giving some tools away for Christmas. If you are interested in entering click here for details - - - - - > czcams.com/video/iQOXh0b-_dg/video.html
How might you do this different if you had a concrete floor?
I would still use c.a. glue to put it all together, but I would use pl 3x and hot glue in combination. The pl 3x in small globs and then in between ,I put little squirts of hot glue to help hold the transition down while the pl 3x cures. I've also used boxes of flooring as weight to hold it down. It should be okay after a few hours, but after 24 hours, it is rock solid. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
You're in Nashville, how about coming to Atlanta
Whatcha hot going on
So I have to ask... What angle to cut those 45s for the elevated tack strips?
I usually figur out the height difference and set a shim on the back of my saw table. This will elevate the back so when I cot a 45° , it's sitting the way it would on the floor. Just like cutting crown molding. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
@@YOUFLOOR Thanks for the reply, I did try that, but struggling with the gap that is left, I think Im just not articulating the degree that I am cutting off to close up the center where the pieces meet?
Figured it out.. for my application, 41 degrees with 22.5 degree compound. Used the jig and some trial and error. Thanks for the input!
I really need your help- I moved into house and had tile removed all the way up to fireplace (tile is around and then bricks) a week later, water started pouring in from the rain and went under the new laminate floor- now there is a HUGE gap- what can I use to seal area from laminate to tile?
100% silicone. Let me know if you need more details. Give me more of a description of what you have going on.
I had silicone (per your suggestion) in the are around fireplace- I will have laminate floors replaced this week. Thank you for your help.
@@YOUFLOOR can you recommend a floor molding that is flexible- I need to put around fireplace where it meets the floating laminate floor
Guesstimate how much does this type of job cost? 😁. The job looks great. Thanks for the video. Very helpful.
The whole job or just the transition part. I'm only asking to clearly because we did the whole house in lvp
@@YOUFLOOR just the transition part.
Well if I was just going in and doing it it would've taken about an hour. But filming it took almost two. Our minimum daily price is 350.00 that's about a 6 to 8 hour day. But for just an hour. Still have to pull out many tools and put them away. Plus gas is outrageous so my honest answer is around 125.00 to 150.00 ( dependingbon concrete or wood subfloor) maybe 100.00 to 125.00 for a friend. If Im in a great mood lol. Hope that helps. Great question
One more thing if it's for someone who cares nothing about price and you can deliver the goods, you can get 200. 00 I mean who else can do it like you. Certainly not the home owner or he wouldn't call you. Heard a great quote.. " cheap work ain't good but good work ain't cheap" thanks again for the question . Love those kind👍
@@YOUFLOOR thank you very much. I appreciate you replying back to me. 🙏🙏. I'm a beginner handyman and watching your videos has helped me grow and understand more. Thanks 👍.
What was the can of spray you used
That is an accelerator for the c. A. Glue
So is it fine to install LVP in a family room that has a wood stove? I’m thinking of doing this. There is a raised hearth and the stove stove on top of that.
I think that would be fine. As long as you don't have heat blowing constantly. We had one of those blow heaters sitting on a small piece of plywood years back and it bubbled up the lvp about a foot. Was weird cause it all fell back down when it cooled off but it could have been a disaster. So your situation sounds pretty standard. Check the floor now and just see how hot it gets too be sure before you get committed. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
@Jessica J I'm reaching out to my commenters to make sure you know I am giving some tools away for Christmas. If you are interested in entering click here for details - - - - - > czcams.com/video/iQOXh0b-_dg/video.html
Just spent $15K on LVP for living room, dining room, family room, downstairs bedroom, bathroom and two closets. They wouldn’t touch the fireplace hearth. Left the marble exposed for someone to break their fkng toes. I’m very upset needless to say
Sorry to hear that. Maybe it can still be fixed to your liking. Good luck brotha
@P. Sherman reading through the comments again and wondering if you ever got this fixed? Would love to see pics of this if you don't mind sending them - you can email them to youfloor.net@gmail.com
Also trying to let everyone know I am giving tools away for Christmas - if you are interested in entering you can find all the details here - - - - - > czcams.com/video/iQOXh0b-_dg/video.html
Why not try using a reducer?
If you go to 1:04 in the video, you'll see this is a sold as a multipurpose reducer. It actually has a low side and a high side. Thanks for the 5
@@YOUFLOOR thank you
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my subfloor is concrete how do I nail this
You don't. You will have to glue it. I recommend PL 3X ADHESIVE
I'd fire you for using that many nails....why use the glue...so silly