At 60k the O-rings are most likely good. However, the original shape has been altered due to use. With that said the chance of you getting it back on exactly the way it was previously seated is slim to none. Best to replace every time you disconnect an O-ring. I’m in helicopter aviation maintenance, so that philosophy has been drilled in me.
So, you were able to do the driver side without removing the cab, it’s amazing. I have to do mine and I was discouraged based on the comments on the net. Thanks for sharing
@@jaandel1 yeah, but you don't have to completely drain your coolant. If you drain the coolant by pulling the turbo line, you're only removing maybe half of what's in the entire system. It's less coolant you have to put back in, and I'm cheap.
@@colliswilliams8992 i did fix a return coolant line turbo fitting and pipe.. no matter what you do you will lose 2 gallon which its the same amount that you loose when you drain the coolant... cheap yeah 20 o 25 ( included $1. Destilated water) buy the concentrate coolant 1galon + 1 galon water.... btw if you go the dealer for system flush they never do that they scammed me they just drain and pour new coolant and cleaner $200 plus taxes.... and i was like you sceptical about gallons i asked for a flush yeah we did... they stated..
You don't need to do a tune for this. At the least I would reset the KAM and let it re learn but you don't need to do it if you can't. Tuning is just fine dialing it and getting the most out of it.
Are you referring to sporadic purging? If so, I was having that and went back oem. Recently I wanted to try it out again bc I missed it. Narrowed it down to this, if I accelerate over 2k, it slightly purges after it changes gear and even when the TC locks. If I keep it below 2k it won't purge. I think this is normal operation. Not sure if the tuner can adjust this for the EBOV.
At 60k the O-rings are most likely good. However, the original shape has been altered due to use. With that said the chance of you getting it back on exactly the way it was previously seated is slim to none. Best to replace every time you disconnect an O-ring. I’m in helicopter aviation maintenance, so that philosophy has been drilled in me.
So, you were able to do the driver side without removing the cab, it’s amazing. I have to do mine and I was discouraged based on the comments on the net. Thanks for sharing
That's probably FORDs recommendation...
140,000 miles
And my 2014 eco needs it already, pulling 13,800 toy hauler ;)
Did you end up doing it ? How it go ? Any tips ?
Best penetrating oil I ever used is "Free All" try it and you will never go back. Its more for rusty bolts then door hinges.
Thanks for this. My ‘13 has a warped manifold so I’m planning on changing out both of them.
Did you end up doing it ? How it go ? Any tips ?
All of that work for that. Should be looking into bigger turbos soon brother and some real manifolds through full race
Always the dang wife ALWAYS !
Actually T47 for the exhaust manifold and T45 for the oil line. I took off my left turbo and exhaust manifold today.
Really? I used a T50 on the exhaust manifold bolts on my 2013
Any pointers for the ac unit? Heard other ppl talk about this. I just got my BDdiesel manifold and turbo kit. Thanks for the pointers
Btw, u are going to get the truck tuned, correct? Won’t get the full benefits of the install without a little programming.
what kind of socket are u using, I can't tighten mine down at all
I'm glad I watched this before I completely drained my coolant. If it's unnecessary, then why bother?
You should drain both coolant and oil
@@jaandel1 yeah, but you don't have to completely drain your coolant. If you drain the coolant by pulling the turbo line, you're only removing maybe half of what's in the entire system. It's less coolant you have to put back in, and I'm cheap.
@@colliswilliams8992 i did fix a return coolant line turbo fitting and pipe.. no matter what you do you will lose 2 gallon which its the same amount that you loose when you drain the coolant... cheap yeah 20 o 25 ( included $1. Destilated water) buy the concentrate coolant 1galon + 1 galon water.... btw if you go the dealer for system flush they never do that they scammed me they just drain and pour new coolant and cleaner $200 plus taxes.... and i was like you sceptical about gallons i asked for a flush yeah we did... they stated..
@@jaandel1why someone would go through all that work and leave old coolant is just retarded. If they just recently changed it I could understand.
In your video, you mentioned that there are more detailed 'step-by-step' YT videos for this installation. Could you share those please?
czcams.com/video/3r9-UT_3kyY/video.html
I'm also about to upgrade my turbos. I'll try to do a complete video guide.
Did you need to do a tune? Motoroso told me I need to do a tune with the manifolds or the engine wouldn’t run properly.
You don't need to do a tune for this. At the least I would reset the KAM and let it re learn but you don't need to do it if you can't. Tuning is just fine dialing it and getting the most out of it.
Did you feel any difference? Quicker spool up?
Good job bro! You getting a lot more spool noise?
I don't really think so lol. I think it slightly deepened the tone though. Happy so far, feels like it just breathes better now.
You still running vta mod? I’m starting to get what seems to be compressor surge or a shot e-bov have you experienced anything like that
Are you referring to sporadic purging? If so, I was having that and went back oem. Recently I wanted to try it out again bc I missed it. Narrowed it down to this, if I accelerate over 2k, it slightly purges after it changes gear and even when the TC locks. If I keep it below 2k it won't purge. I think this is normal operation. Not sure if the tuner can adjust this for the EBOV.
LETMELIVE any plans for the turbo smart turbos sonic?
What’s the benefit of these over stock?
Check out there website. It's basically what headers do. Bigger ID better flow.
Don't blame the wife.
What is your current 0-60?
Not sure but I will find out! My guess is 4.9 or so. I got oem tires that are nearing replacement so might be hard to get an accurate launch.
Heard about these warping. How are yours?
Solid bro
My stocks did. Had these installed and now they’re warped.
They literally look identical to stock lol
That's the good part for warranty reasons. They wouldn't know there bored out.
Don't they have a CR logo plain as day... lol.
Dam bro why wife yelling at you