70. Economical DIY "Marine" Flooring | Learning the Lines
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- čas přidán 21. 01. 2019
- Ever look at marine cabin flooring and be turned off because of the price? We have too. What's so great about it that demands such a premium? We've spoken to real cruisers who have used other products and get a similar result for MUCH less.
We decided to go with a very economical solution from Home Depot, called Trafficmaster Allure in Teak color. It's fully waterproof, has texture, and has enough flex that it'll conform to a slight curvature. That's all you need for cabin flooring. I wouldn't use it outside the cabin, but inside it should be perfectly fine. We ended up spending about a tenth of the cost of using a "marine" product.
Sailing Uma used a similar flooring and it's been in their boat for three years with no issues. We've also personally used this flooring in the condo we owned prior to moving aboard, and it worked great.
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Learning the Lines is a channel about us, an average couple in our 20's, with big dreams to be sailing the world by the time we're in our 30's. We're not afraid to jump into anything, put in the work, and learn as we go. For this reason our channel is very DIY focused, with the goal to show anyone watching that a lot is possible if you're not afraid to make some mistakes along the way.
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![Family Catamaran Sailboat Refit [CHEAP TEAK FLOORS DIY]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/CDp5xboqbPo/mqdefault.jpg)
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So nice to see a young couple enjoying life and working together so well.
Thank you! :)
use a brown felt marker on the white showing through, Asum job !! love seeing wood in a boat.
Those lights look trick!!!! The floors look great too. for a free boat she's really coming along nicely, Good Job!!!
I really liked that little preview. Exciting!
That floor looks absolutely gorgeous!! You did an amazing job!!
All the work is paying off. The boat is looking really good!!
The floor came out terrific!!
That flooring is really good, I installed it on my basement floor 15 years ago and it still looks good, the glue has held nicely over the years.
You guys are the best, thanks for sharing and be well!!
Thank you for watching and for the kind words! :)
Another great one as usual. Keep up the good work!
Hey, that flooring looks great and such a good idea!
Floor looks awesome!! Nicely done
I could be still living on my dad's Cape Dory 28' but I didn't realize back then (me in my early 20's in the 90's pre internet) it was a realistic option. Thanks for keeping the vision/dream as an open possibility.
The flooring does make a good difference! 👏👍
Yes
Thank you for another excellent video - the cabin sole looks good, definitely something to consider in future builds...i love the economical solutions you come up with. Thank you for sharing :)
Looks nice!
We have massively heavy timber soles which need refinishing this winter before we leave the Azores.
Much sanding in my future. Looks like those tiles will preclude you from that chore!
Jordan and Randi! Man! you guys are on it! The flooring looks really good. And more contrast against the bulk head. I rarely leave any critical feed back as what you guys have accomplished is nothing short of climbing mt everest! The trim pieces are going to make the sole and bulk head really nice!
I put a $5, 10 foot long, led colour changing light strip in my boat that I got from ebay. It looks awesome. I love the pink lighting at night. Great job guys!
I love you two. You’re the best.
Thanks so much!
Nice video. Thanks for sharing!
Live and learn on how you choose to do with your boat, my advise is to get as much input from other boat owners before cutting , installing and proceeding on passages.. I love that you are putting so much work into that E32, cheers !
Always enjoy your videos, guys. I’ve been boating all my life and have learned a few things the hard way, but even so - unless invited - I would never dream of telling another owner how to do stuff. Amazing how the apparent anonymity online seems to bring out the ‘experts’ 😂 ... ! Meanwhile, I feel it’s awesome how you’re tackling the to-do list ... and I congratulate you on the progress you’re making and the diplomacy with which you handle some of the more assertive feedback! Go you ... 👌⛵️
Suggestion - to make the crack between the bilge cover and the rest of the sole less noticeable, take a wide, black permanent marker and run it along the edge so that none of the white fiberglass peeks through.
Get rid of the foam strips around those electrical panels and replace them with butyl tape. It is reusable and it seals MUCH better ! Also, skip the silicon on the screws. Use butyl tape.
Devious mind working there.
Yup butyl tape will give you MUCH MUCH MUCH less trouble....but you've already done it....nobody produces videos up to date.
Hate all boat owners who use silicon.
@@Sophia-qe2vn Agree, big No on silicone, 3M 5200 is much better, its polyurethane based and lasts for decades. Anyone else think the hull cutouts need to be treated with a sealer, which is what I was taught on any hull perforations as bedding ?
Great IDEA! GOOD VIDEO thanks
Grear job guys!!
Thats a great idea! II am saying that as someone who has done a lot of laying vinyl flooring.It should be good for quite awhile👍
Looking very nice guys 😎!!
Thanks Andy!
Looking good! 👍
I liked the idea of having an outside electrical panel to back up the main one. Remembering my Dad having to below every time he needed to switch something on or off. Yes, the LED lighting is the only way to go. Your flooring project looked very tedious indeed. Randdi’s hand must have been blistered and sore from all of that trimming! Nice that you mention Sailing Uma and how nice their boat has turned out. Yours is looking great as well!
Hi, I used the exact same brand and color flooring on my boat about 8 or 9 years ago. Thought you might like to know it looked perfect a few years later when I sold the boat. No issues, was very happy with the flooring. Just to put your mind at ease since some people had doubtful comments. Good channel, thank you.
Too rad!!
Thanks for this!
Looks really good!
I like the flooring. I've been planning to use that type on a few projects in my house and van.
It is really easy to work with. Just gets tedious when you have to make a lot of cuts, which definitely is the case in a boat and probably a van. Lol.
Nice floor guys!
It's great to see you both taking a contemporary materials approach to 1970s engineering.
As a product of the 70's myself I've been heavily upgraded and it's only worked out well for me!
The low amp high lumens Nav LEDs are the way to go but you might want to check your angles.
TBH they look ok to me.
There aren't so many electric conversion sailboats out there so it's quite educational for me to watch you guys figure it out.
Keep up the great videos!
Looking good...! Keep on moving forward and you'll be a thousand miles from now before you know it! ;P
SO, I am a latecomer to your channel and have been binge-watching. I stumbled onto your channel as I started investigating 30 -42 ft boats as I am on the verge of retirement. Your series of videos has inspired me to do what I have wanted to do throughout my entire 26 yr Navy career, four of those were in the US Coast Guard. I have enjoyed your videos on your work on the boat and I am currently on #71. I'm anxious to learn whether you took that cruise around the world. I have a shipmate in New Zealand who I believe would welcome your visit. As for me, I am planning to retire in the Ft Myers area and I'm in search of a sailboat. When you do go on your cruise (I need to watch the remainder of your posts) I'd recommend getting a LORAN receiver for navigation. These days there is too much dependency on GPS.
Nice nice job!
Good job you two...
Thank you!
Very Enlightening.....
Thanks for watching!
Home Depot. Great idea verses "marine" stuff. Due to my own neglect, I have a boat project, again. Need you guys. Thanks.
I just ripped up my floors today and this helps. I was so sick of my old flooring and just ripped it up.
Nice job on the floor ! Mine has been half finished for about 4 months lol...
Nav lights looks very smart, not seen that type before. All my nav lights are now led too apart from my stern light and steam light half way up the mast. Luckily those two are only used while motoring on the engine, so loads of power then.
I love your channel! Just about to order the supplies to do this project on our motor vessel and wondered how yours is holding up after a few years?
I love these DIY boatwork videos you guys do. It's not so much how technically good your videos are it's about the quality of the content.
Thank you! We appreciate it.
The floor looks good. Just a thought you might take a black or brown waterproof magic marker and go around the inside if the cuts to help them .
Looks great guys! Really like the flooring and the LED nav lights. Way better than the ones you have to fish through the bow pulpit and constantly get snagged by lines. Sailing to Key West in a few weeks for a short getaway. Will probably get a slip in Galleon Marina. Don't know if you are going to KW or trying to make a b-line to the Bahamas.
The cabin sole looks nice guys. Good to see the weather cooperating with you. Randi is going to have a real grip by the time you get done with everything. Will make hauling on the halyards a lot easier for her. Has anyone used Z-Grip for their cabin sole? Just curious. Take care and have a good week.
This looks great! We are looking yo replace our carpet with these vinyls. How did you fill the gaps between the floor and the floor compartments? Thanks!
Like the lights what brand are they thanks
I've used it for Master bedroom and bathroom and entryway.
I may be late but to make thoughts edges look nice sand the edge and black or brown ink marker. but it looks nice from my boat .
Looking good. Don't sweat the nay Sayers. It's your boat, do what pleases you. The nice thing of doing it yourself is if you decide it doesn't work you can always pull them. Then all you have to do is in a patch panel, fare and paint and it'll be like it never happened.
Nice 👍🏼
Thanks for watching!
You could add a photoelectric switch to turn on all those extremely cute running lights when dusk falls (One last thing to remember.). My mate "G" had one on his show car back in the analog days and it even dipped the headlights.
You use running lights when you are sailing. Then add steaming Lights when you are using the motor (even if you have sails set up still.)
If you are anchored you use the anchor lights and NOT the running or streaming lights (or vise versa.) And if you are tired up to a dock you don't run any of them.
Having running lights on when you are not in command of the vessel is very dangerous. Another vessel would think/expect you to give way from certain directions and since the boat was anchored with people maybe down belowdecks or away it couldn't/wouldn't give way. That could cause a collision and it would be the anchored boats fault for running false lights.
It is not as simple as just letting a photocell turn lights on and off when it gets dark. But you could wire things up so you could leave the anchor light on with its own photocell so when you left the boat it would turn on at dark and off again in the morning. But modern LED anchor lights draw so little power that this isn't worth the bother. Without anyone on the boat the solar panels are producing hundreds of times more power when the sun is shining than the anchor light uses all day. Photocells can fail. Better to just let the 0.2 amp draw stay on during daylight hours. It is safer that way.
Floor Looks Good so far, needs a look after a couple months traffic.
Sad I caught this after you did it. You should have used an exterior vinyl adhesive (bet you all had a hell of a Contact buzz). Also when you cut the tile use a heat gun (on the back only) to soften it and cut it with a razor knife. It will cut like butter. Being brown you could have laid it on the deck in the sun and that alone would have got you half way there.
Just curious, was the little sailboat icon at the beginning a planned thing?🤔 Thanks for the video's, great for info etc. But I'm confused as to why the icon placement? lol 😉
More Progress! ✔✔👍👍
You might consider adding a PayPal link for one time contributions.
I am maxed out on Patreon Channels but perhaps PayPal if I hit a lick! Winter is not my best income season. 😁
Prayers for now! 👍👍
@@mariemorrissey9378, the reason we prefer Patreon is because it compensates us for work performed. PayPal feels a little more like charity since there's no requirement to produce an episode.
You would think a simple project like glueing some flooring down and installing a couple of lights would not be controversial but there is a "know it all" behind every screen! There's always a hundred ways to do a job but you are actually doing it! And that's the difference! Good on you for keeping you replys polite......
So heres my comment ....Ha... "LadyKSailing" had a flood and their wood 'bilge' access boards floated making move around in water a foot over the sole searching for the leak very tricky. I've never seen latched down bilge hatch boards but latches would also make finding a leak hard too. Damned if you do & damned if you don't!
Cheers Warren.
Thanks Warren, you would certainly think!
These are pretty useful for determining the source of a water leak:
www.amazon.com/d/Baby-Toddler-Toys/Visions-Crayola-Color-Dropz-Tablets/B00009KWTB/
Some people aren't happy unless they are telling other people what they must do. It is pretty much the story if the human race.
Not just Kings and Popes at the top of the heirarchy, but the little old church ladies and petty bureaucrats right down at the bottom levels too. Those are the loudest most of the time
The more they are not minded, the louder they squeel. The trick is to learn to enjoy their barking, and even try to get them even more wound up for kicks.
Because nothing you will ever do will make them happy anyhow, so you might as well get them barking mad for funsies. :D
hey guys just a word on the vinyl flooring from the hardware store. My boat had them on the sole before I bought it, they were a couple of years old since installation and they just deteriorated really quickly. They looked terrible after only two seasons so pulled them out and they left a god awful residue that was near impossible to get off. Ended up using epoxy paint and heronair mats where needed, will never use that stuff on a boat anymore
Most likely its brand-dependent. Uma has had theirs for over three years and it's been put through the paces as they've lived aboard and cruised the whole time. It still looks great.
@@LearningtheLines quite possibly is related to quality, and I think the high temperatures and moisture where I am played a part. anyway, they certainly do look the goods :)
Vinyl flooring, they are not all equivalent and you get what you pay for. Wearability, how thick is the top clear layer, stretchability, etc. For light use you can get away with practically any vinyl floor, but for heavy use it really does pay to get the more expensive and better vinyl flooring. As to the residue, that is cleanable with a thinner. Lacquer thinner works very well, but is rather strong so only need moistened rag, not sopping and dripping wet.
Allure is terrible, when it gets hot the glue softens and the planks slide.I instal floors for a living ,lifeproof makes a much better product for only slighty more.
As much as I want to be a snob, I don't want to pay for hardwood lumber. pretty great idea IMO. Also we should maybe enjoy the trees where they are before they all burn down.
If you read the directions and safety precautions on that contact adhesive I think it says to not use it indoors without massive ventilation, and to turn off all pilot lights such as stoves and water heaters or any ignition sources. The fumes are explosive and are also toxic and really bad for your lungs. Organic cartridges and respirators are suggested. Inside a boat...well I'm glad you didn't have any disasters.
Those weather deck panels are nice. We have an 8-circuit one in our cockpit. It's nice to be able to turn on or off the nav lights, steaming light, anchor light, cockpit lights (red and white), laz lights, and compass light all from the cockpit without needing to go down belowdecks. Great for singlehanding when the other half of the crew is asleep, cooking or busy using the head.
As far as the adhesive, we read the instructions/safety precautions pretty well. There's nothing on our boat that will cause the vapor to ignite. We also had tons of ventilation. All the hatches and portlights open and lots of wind blowing through the boat. Probably should have worn a respirator, but then again these are NOT how to videos. The instructions we read didn't mention a respirator, just ventilation.
Yea contact cement has that quick dry release vapor and quick cure time, but as long as its ventilated well and precautions checked with any ignition sources, it should be fairly safe. Respirator is of course ideal, but burning couple of brain cells is not any worse than actually drinking the alcohol ... plus you get such a nice buzz when you don't wear a respirator :D
Tip for applying contact cement would have been to use short nap roller, one of those small touch up ones would have been ideal for that vinyl floor application. It was prolly un-professional not to use respirator, but I did that for years in many restaurant remodeling (panelling / formica), kitchen countertop remodeling (formica), and home bathrooms (pvc bath liners). Always got a buzz even in the shop and restaurants ... but the home bathrooms was most comparable to inside of small boat. We always used fans to ventilate in bathrooms, but they usually did not have very good cross ventilation either, and especially not in the bath / shower area.
I think that contact cement is going to hold fine for years. It's the same stuff I used to glue down my Formica on my head countertop. So far that has been perfect for almost 2 years of living aboard with zero hint of coming up and that's getting water spilled on it all the time near the sink, and the head is also just a high-moisture enviorment even more than the sole of the saloon.
Does that flooring take a light sanding at all at the edges where you trimmed it at the bilge plates or must it be cut with a knife to really clean it up for a smooth edge?
Harbor Freight sells a pretty dang spiffy hand plane for something like $6. I have one and it is really nice for the price. Perhaps that would be great for that edge if it doesn't sand for ship.
Finally, please take care of your lungs. Marine chemicals, paints, adhesives and building materials are very bad on lungs. My dad has been on oxygen since around Y2K because he was around that stuff all the time. Damage is cumulative and doesn't really get better. My father in law got his lungs messed up painting aircraft and sometimes can't sleep at night because of the nerve damage epoxy does to the respritory nerves.
I will not sand even a little bit of wood, fiberglass, paint, do epoxy, painting, gluing anything without my respirator on with good organic cartridges these days. Not even outside in the cockpit or on deck. I wasn't always so careful in my youth an in my 50's I can already tell my lungs have taken a big hit from the times when I was young like you and stupidly went without protection. I was never a smoker either. Smoking plus other harmful chemicals/dusts doesn't just add up, it synergizes and multiplies the risks, perhaps even squaring the effect. You are young attractive healthy people. I would hate to see you guys make the same dumb mistakes I made, or especially my dad and FIL to ruin our health. Especially Randi, a hard life makes women look and feel old much faster. She should try and stay young and beautiful as long as she can. Look at Goldie Hawn. Proof it can be done into your 70's if one works at it.
Oh, yeah -wear sunscreen too, especially on you face. UV makes you old. Randi should not even go outside without sunscreen on her face and neckline and any exposed cleavage. Look at photos of Ted Turner or any older sailor. The sun just makes you look 10x older.
Finally, get off my lawn...lol
SV Barry Duckworth , nice to hear you making some positive comments for a change Barry, some of your comments can be quite negative. It's super easy to jump all over folks that spend many many hours preparing their videos, having a thick skin is clearly a requirement.
Fortunately they have improved the formulations of contact cements since the old days. I worked in a yard where somebody was literally blown out of the open hull when he ignited the fumes that had been drying over lunch when he pulled the trigger on a screw gun! He survived unharmed because he kept his mouth shut...very lucky.
Good advice on sunscreen but they are usually carful if you watch some of their other videos.( that's why Randi has white skin!)
Cheers Warren.
@@CheersWarren you obviously have not been paying much attention to my comments to these guys from thr very start.
Rarely am I negative and it is only on important safety/health issues, even though I personally disagree with many of their choices like electric drive or whatever. That is little stuff and really doesn't matter like important health and safety issues.
Running without lifelines is JUST DUMB, and I refuse to say anything less. I said it about Uma at the time when they refused to install them fir years, and it is really annoying that their stupid bad example is influencing others who watch their videos to follow this very bad and irresponsible example.
Dumb is dumb.
I really, really like your disclaimer. How can we be experts after sailing or DIY for a few months or a few short years? So much to learn and understand. Thanks for sharing.
Did you use sealant for the fixtures?
How is the floor now that you have had the chance to walk on it while sailing and while it's wet? I just took up my cabin sole and it's currently stacked up in the garage. I forgot my heat gun so looking to potentially "cheat" and try skinning over it with this style of flooring.
Use a hair dryer to warm the vinyl and it will cut like butter
Very, very good trick. I use a heat gun to shrink heat shrink fittings but also use it to shape plastics of all types, soften hoses prior to installation, and get plastic panels to fit tight curves. I recently saw a heat gun at Harbor Freight for $10. It works better than a hair dryer.
No joke, buy a pair of decent Tin Snips and keep it onboard. Tin Snips can be used for everything!! Great tool to keep on hand.
I wonder what is happening to the wood under the bulkhead vinyl after one year? ...and how would you know till it too late?
Floor looks great.
Where were the old running lights and why not use that location rather than making new holes? Also, shouldn't you be able to see the stern/bow lights from the side of the boat?
Best of luck and be safe!!!
I don't know what phone you use but have you checked out the lenses from the company called Moment? They make all sorts of lenses for cell phones and they are incredible. I've shot a few short clips with their lenses and the results so far have been great.
I just bought a gulfstar 37 and it has issues with soft flooring. Any suggestions?
Enjoying the videos. I have a question about your flooring. Maybe I heard incorrectly in episode #69, but I thought you mentioned that your flooring came up when you were having problems near Captiva Island. Was this your laminate flooring? If so, any recommendations on other type of adhesive you might use in the future to better secure it (other than 5900 adhesive)? Thanks.
The floor boards popped up, those rectangular access panels in the sole (floor) that they were complaining about needing to cut around for half of the video. Nothing holds them in but gravity.
Our bad for not using the proper terminology, we should have said the bilge covers. None of the flooring has come up, so we feel pretty good about the contact cement. In the previous video, when we grounded the bilge covers popped up and onto the cabin sole out of place.
I'm curious why you chose to cut into the hull to mount the lights. Was the previous mounting interfering with a new anchor chain run or something? I've heard many times about avoiding cutting new holes in the hull, so.... Was there butyl tape or something used for backing before mounting. It looked like it on the stern, but I didn't see anything on the bow. Cheers! Love the videos!
Theres a rubber gasket provided with the lights. We mounted them on the hull because its simpler and easier to access/maintain. I doubt there's any issue structurally. It's high up above the waterline and realistically they aren't big holes.
@@EDesigns_FL I would not use 5200 in this application. 5200 is an adhesive (and an aggressive one at that) not a caulk. 4200 or Life Caulk is more appropriate. 5200 should only be used on things that will never be replaced, like hull-to-deck joints and the like, not for parts that will wear out eventually. Silicone grease is a wonderful thing to protect electrical connections.
They could always build a fibreglass box behind each one and thus return her hull to watertight status.
@@EDesigns_FL 4200 and 5200 are both polyurethane adhesive sealants. They are almost exactly the same but formulated only slightly differently so that 5200 has a bit more PSI bonding rating. Both are VERY strong adhesives in their own right. Either is acceptable for use above or below the waterline as their instructional material states.
Your ignorance is really showing the more you post here Keith.
www.boatingmag.com/choosing-right-marine-caulk#page-2
Where can I donate...to get a better look at the bottom of your last anchorage? 😂😂😂 Looking good guys...Cheers!
Lol. Contributions go through Patreon.com/learningthelines
Thanks for watching!
Looks way better than it has any right to.
It has been 5 years, how did the floor hold up?
for the cut ends, once they are the perfect length you want them, you can smooth the cut edges with a little flame, not too much. And don't let the other commentators get to you, it's your boat and home, not theirs.
Hey what happened to the 3 musketeers mustache from the last video? 👨🏻 I guess we were time warping with episode 69. Glad as always to see you guys are still alive and that you haven't drowned or electrocuted yourselves !!!🤞 🙏 😎 I gave your video a 👍. And I became a Patreon supporter !!!
Yes, the sail video involved some time travel. Lol. Wanted to have the design consult and unveiling in one episode. Thank you so much for the support! We truly appreciate it. :)
Hopefully, that flooring adhesive is formaldehyde free.
This flooring last forever I have it in my cabin
9:26 Any chance that Stern light needs to be rotated 90 degrees? Seems the field of projection ought to be horizontal for a greater angle of visibility rather than projecting the light narrow horizontally and wide in the vertical direction. We're not trying to signal aircraft here. :P
I love vinyl plank flooring. Goes down super easy, and it looks and feels like hardwood.
Outdoor adhesive will work much better and last longer than contact cement. Clear thin spread ie vct adhesive would be your next best option. Hope it lasts awile.
I highly doubt that. Contact cement I know for sure can withstand in commercial kitchens that get washed and/or hosed down daily. Also withstand bath / shower use, that once again will usually see daily water use. Salt water can be different for certain things or products, but that is not the case with contact cement. As proof, how many boats do you see where countertops inside of them are peeling up? Not many, and if they are it is because the wood underneath is rotting away, not due to contact cement losing its bond with itself, but due to contact cement losing its bond with the rotten wood. Trust me mate, the vinly flooring will wear out before the contact cement ... in fact will prolly have to use strong cleaner / thinner to remove the contact cement after vinyl flooring is removed. I have used contact cement professionally for many years and know it will last a very long time.
Your suggestion might work equally as well for the wall, as both are the appropriate and suitable products, as both are specifically designed for such use. Contact cement is designed for use with all plastic based products, including vinyl. Difference is that VCT is water-based, contact cement is alcohol solvent-based and not water soluble. VCT is not suitable for the floor however in this instance as per products recommendations "Suitable for use with on, above and below grade concrete subfloors that are *free of moisture* hydrostatic pressure, alkali, paint, foreign matter and existing adhesives". VCT can last and resist water and can even resist standing water for brief periods of time, but I would not submerge it in water for any continuous period because it is water-based ... unlike contact cement. Nor am I sure how well VCT is immune to salt, unlike contact cement which I know is.
It is like with paint. Water based paint can withstand washing or periodic soaking. But for continual soaking, such as outdoor use, you would not choose water based paint. One would choose an oil or enamel paint. This in essence is what you are recommending, for them to use water based product indoors, which is fine for maybe the walls like vinyl walls they did, but not fine for floor of a boat. That floor of a boat will be more like an outdoor use.
The vct adhesive we use as professionals is NOT water based and is a much stronger than the contact cement he was using. There are commercial grade contact cements that are as good as Vct adhesive, but are hard to come by. I have installed many of the restaurant kitchens of which you speak and can tell you that contact cement when used in that environment fail often. The fact that an adhesive is water based doesn't necessarily make it weaker or less suited for water, it mostly just makes the cure time longer. As a matter of fact most of the commercial contact cements we use now are water based. The contact cement he used will be very hard to get off the product or the floor. It will fail at the bond between the two. In order to get a very permanent bond any adhesive used (including vct adhesive) would need a wet installation that allowed the two layers of adhesive to cure completely as one) even though contact cement is rarely used that way, you get a much stronger bond. They actually make an adhesive for lvp installation that he could have gotten when he purchased the lvp that used wet, would have been far superior to contact cement. As I first started outdoor adhesive which is mostly used that glue flooring to outdoor patios would be the first choice for his application and would probably be the only adhesive that would survive submersion for any length of time, except epoxy which would be very difficult to work with.
Ah ok, was not aware VCT came non-water based as well. Then it will should be comparable and just as good. As to specific type of contact cement, yea it is possible that they are not all equivalent. One they used however, DAP the original formula, works great and is not a subpar product. Cleaning it off once product is removed will yes require some commercial cleaner or thinner. I do not think you quite understand how contact cement works mate ... permanent bond will NEVER work or be obtained if applied while still wet. That is exact opposite of reality, it will only work correctly if allowed to cure and dry. When ever there is an issue with it not adhering properly, it is due to not allowing to cure fully before sticking together. Sorry mate but no it will not be stronger bond if stuck together before than, been there and done that. It fails, which is why it is not used that way. As long as they waited for it to cure (which appears like they did) they will not have any issues with floor coming up, getting removed at a later date will be an issue, but as its vinyl, simply applying some heat and bit of effort will work.
@@kevinfisher1345 exactly! The contact cement will be hard enough to remove when it comes time to do so. If thermal expand issues cause this flooring to buckle when they get to a cold climate someday they will not want to have to deal with removing VCT. If they were installing this shlt on the ceiling maybe. But on the floor, no point in making life horrible for whomever eventually needs to remove this shlp.
SV Barry Duckworth - removing contact cement is not hard at all, done it many times (especially when piece does not go exactly where wanted it to). Are 2 simple options. One is slow and steady with heat gun, and any basic scraper or putty knife. Other is with harsh commercial cleaners or any kind of thinner. Lacquer thinner which is quite strong will easily remove it no time at all. However the second is not recommended if you want to reuse the pieces ... especially that soft vinyl flooring as it will eat away at that vinyl.
Now try removing shower pvc liner ... that is horrible if you want to reuse it as it is so thin. Removing contact cement is no problem, but trying to keep that soft pvc liner in good condition w/out ruining is huge pain. Best method is heat gun and very slow and steady. If bit stubborn in spots, drop of thinner or two. Contact cement normally remains on pvc liner though instead of the wall, as it is smoother surface. But again that is not too difficult to get off, barely damp rag of thinner.
I hope you guys don't mind me asking ..How long this this floor lasted b4 it started.to peel off..If ever?
Yes, how did it hold up?
Be careful using Contact Cement in a enclosed space the vapors at the right air mixture can be like a bomb. There are non flammable contact cements.
Well... I'm absolutely floored to be this early. Oof.
Lol
They Vinyly sorted that floor?
Careful it scratches easy.
Hi didn't feel bad I bought my flooring 4 mouths go and still haven't installed it because of all the cuts.
Lol right?
She sounds identical to Sierra from Tula's endless Summer.....
That old floor looks like its 'a pealing' to me...
I am surprised to hear that Sailing Uma has had good results. The reason they do not glue it down in homes is because the plastic can expand so much it can buckle if not given the room to expand, atleast that is what they tell us.
Time will tell.
We have problems with our mahogany rub tails with brass half-round screwed to that. In the winter in Chicago the fiberglass hull would shrink so much that the brass half-round would buckle and push the screws out where the brass strip would get wavy and push out. Come spring the boat would expand and all would be well after fixing the pushed-out screws.
Plastic expands and contracts a LOT.
It is worth the experiment though. The flooring is cheap and these kids have tons of time to fix stuff that didn't work out. That's what DIY boat work is all about.
There are a few hard and fast things you should never do on a boat, which could lead to expensive damage or putting the vessel and its crew at risk. But what flooring to use on the cabin sole doesn't even really register, as long as it isn't too slippery and become a hazard when wet in a seaway or even an anchorage.
I know someone who broke their finger really badly from slipping and getting thrown into a bulkhead when they got waked when at a dock
o.o
But it seems this cheap flooring will have plenty of traction and a nice rough fake woodgrain texture,.from what they showed on the video
Let them have their fun.
👍👏👏👏
I understand putting off finishing the floor, especially the trim pieces. But I would not put off cleaning up those edges too long. The more often you use them pulling up the access panels, the more it will wear and rub those edges. Potentially making the edges loose from the floor. Really dependent on how often you need to access those panels as to how long you can put that off.
LED's for your running lights are great and they look awesome ... but something does not look right with their placement, and having to cut out such big holes also does not seem ideal and strikes me as odd. I understand about functionality of adding sub-panels in the cockpit ... but again have to question that decision. I know it is done quite often on small power luxury boats, and even multi-hulls. But those are not intended for heavy blue water. At the least I would highly recommend adding a better (and slightly more permanent) seal than the foam seal that came with it. You mentioned adding silicone to screws on those running lights, again I would recommend something bit better. Butyl tape is great application for that kind of use, especially with shape of those screw heads. Just do not forget to tighten couple times over couple days if going to use butyl.
Just to name a couple, Tartans an Morgan Out Islands use the same type of running lights. They go through the hull just like ours do, and I'm sure more "bluewater" boats have the same kind of lights. We did this just because of simplicity. They're easy to access if we need to rewire/replace them rather than having to snake a wire through a pulpit.
All prolly true ... but still would make me nervous. I know its above the water line, until it rolls over, but still just not keen on holes in side of the hull. Whether above or below, as few as necessary. It is the same with sub-panels, ease of access vs do I want a hole.
Nav lights will be hardly visible when you are sailing. Boat will be heeled over so one or the other will not be visible. At least they should have been mounted on the front of the pulpit. To many holes. Best place for them is at top of mast.
We have mast lights as well.
Masthead triheads are not supposed to be used when motor-sailing or motoring -ever.
Nav lights are important to not just overall visibility but convey critical heading and boat type/class information to other vessels navigating around you.
If there is a collision a maritime tribunal can assign fault to a vessel that was operating with improperly installed or poorly-placed navigation lights even if they had followed the colregs.
I was involved in one such investigation where I witnessed a sailboat crash into another. The damage was substantial and even though the expensive race boat was the stand-on vessel the tribunal placed them mosti at fault because the nav lights were modified to use LED lights when they were not approved to use them. I submitted a written statement that the red and green lenses were not visible to me in a following boat the witnessed the collision from only a few boatlengths behind, and the forward nav lights looked white like they were heading away because the bright LED totally washed out the colored lenses at the seam between the red and green plastic lenses of the combo nav light unit when viewed from straight-on.
That little nav light modification cost the owner about $30k in repairs to the hull.
Just curious, but do you have people that sell marine supplies upset with you because you buy your materials from Home Depot? I know you're saving money.
I’ve anchored there it’s pretty Rolly and the marina is not cool with you unless you have a slip are you going through the same thing
It gets rolly depending on the wind direction for sure. Rose Marina has been super cool with us, however they do charge 5 bucks to dock the dinghy for the day. They don't provide amenity access unless you pay for a slip though if that's what you mean.
Go back to smokehouse bay free dinghy dock behind Winn Dixie But make sure your scope is adequate so you don’t drag into the houses or condos
Naples moorings are excellent and they’re showers are brand new
Dont use Patreon money for Cameras..send a request to Canon, they desperatly need some good reviews (after EOS R and M50 desaster)....
Btw: I f you need advice when it comes to camera equipment and Laptops let me know.
Do you have a floddlight on the stern and bow ?
Very interesting! I was looking at some of the nice canons, like Blue from Delos uses, but they are so expensive. Definitely hit us up with some camera/laptop advice, either through email or facebook/instagram pages -> svsomnium@gmail.com
We have a floodlight on the mast for our deck light.
That is a great idea. They do need some good press.
remember ---"water proof" isn't --run a bead of silicon under the light mounting plates or some butyl tape---wondering why you would cut holes in the boat when there are other types of lights that will mount externally and do the same job?????
What you are seeing is old carpet glue.
eva foam flooring is way better.