Resin 3D Printing for Your Shop? | Creality Halot Mage 8K Printer
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- čas přidán 8. 07. 2023
- Complete-ish guide for resin printing newbies. Presented by a newbie. So I know what being a newbie is like. Intimately. Maybe this helps, maybe it doesn't. You be the judge.
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HALOT-MAGE 8K Resin 3D Printer (super cheap right now): shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=231061...
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Cones of Calibration Print: www.thingiverse.com/thing:541...
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Want to use your 3D printer to learn Sand Casting in your home shop? paulsmakeracademy.mykajabi.com/joinus
Printers discussed here:
HALOT-MAGE 8K Resin 3D Printer (super cheap right now): shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=2310610&u=3680878&m=124834&urllink=&afftrack=
UW-02 WASH/CURE STATION Shown Here: store.creality.com/products/uw-02-washing-curing-machine?spm=..product_9f72ebf3-7732-445e-be13-e029ff676f0f.header_1.1&spm_prev=..page_2159625.shoplazza%3A%2F%2Fapps%2Fpublic%2Fblocks%2Fproducts_grid%2F56125487021326335_1.1
(affiliate links, obviously)
Were you talking about a specific other printer that was more compact? or just that there are others that are more compact?
Resin printers are usually terrible for technical prints (at least the cheap Chinese ones, ours cost 250k and it´s great at that) because you have the FEP film and every time a layer change happens the machine pulls on that film and stretches and distorts the part ever so slightly which adds up. If you print a cat or something this is simply not noticable.
That´s also why printing at an angle which you mentioned here is better because the surface which sticks to the film is now much much smaller at a time and thus the peel forces are reduced.
I can't speak for other 10" printers but I have a 9" one that's much more compact (elegoo mars 4 max). It's about as small as it can be and still fit the screen. Resolution and size isnt as good as this Creality one though
Thanks for the tip! I found printing flat gave me more consistent dimensions but caused other issues. These are cheap Chinese ones though, I would hope a 250k machine would be better lol
@@sierraecho884 Apparently, "lubing" the FEP can make a big difference in releasing the part from the FEP; some recommend silicone, others PTFE, and even RainX.
Theres been 30 printers released since this video was posted 1 hour ago.
And another 5 since your comment
😂😂😂😂😂😂 RIGHT?!? 😂😂😂😂😂😂
@@PaulsGarageand almost no real improovement since 😂
O damn thanks for the heads up
Paul is a cool dude. I bought a furnace as well as the equipment shown in this video.
I couldn't get the furnace or the equipment to work and, through his Patreon, he helped me troubleshoot multiple times until I got it to work. He also made the video on phosphorus copper after I asked what it was for.
This is my most successful relationship.
Something to be aware of with you having your printers in the garage is if the temperature drops below 75-70 degrees, you're going to have prints start to fail.
Also, always fully clean out the vat after a failure to make sure you don't have any small cured bits that can get smashed and damage your screen.
Good point. I forgot to mention that. My garage is heated, so that slipped my mind
What if u live in a hotter state like Florida or Texas I know cold isn't good for printing but what about excessive heat?
You can get a second bucket for the wash and cure and then do a 2 step wash. Rinse the pieces in the first bucket then wash in the second bucket.
I have started doing that and you're right it's a total game changer. Super good idea
@@PaulsGarage what is the washing machine
@@danielramostrejo5720 this one
UW-02 WASH/CURE STATION Shown Here: store.creality.com/products/uw-02-washing-curing-machine?spm=..product_9f72ebf3-7732-445e-be13-e029ff676f0f.header_1.1&spm_prev=..page_2159625.shoplazza%3A%2F%2Fapps%2Fpublic%2Fblocks%2Fproducts_grid%2F56125487021326335_1.1
Yep.... I got really lucky and got a free ultrasonic cleaner as well as buying the washing and curing machine. Definitely best to at least shake it around in a bucket of ipa before the washing system
Ive seen ppl go as far as a 3 step wash
Thank u . U just made my day. I have that exact set up and u put me to ease
This video is getting old now and that printer still works great 👍
Thanks! This was useful.
Wow, great video. Exactly what i needed to know.
Good info, thanks friend. Subbed! @ 7:21 I can say that yes, you can reuse isopropyl. All that I have done for years is, when it gets very cloudy I pour it into a glass jar and set it in a sunbeam. The resin will solidify out of suspension and fall to the bottom. Strain the fluid then add back into the wash tank. I only buy new isopropyl when it evaporates or splashes out. I have been on the edge of pulling the trigger on this one and appreciate the help.
Thanks for the info! I'm going to try pouring the used IPA into a bucket and give that a shot. I can tell a whole bunch of crap settles out when I go a few days between cleaning prints.
Good video and I'm with u I couldn't care less about speed I will gladly wait for a good print over a fast one that loses details
Well done! Great points for just a beginner. :)
Thanks! That was my goal here
Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
FYI The Cones of Calibration is made by Tableflip Foundry.
Thanks for the info Paul, I got a Halot-One, much smaller than yours, a few months back, and I've been slowly ramping up to using it more and more in favor of my Ender-3. I keep it outside because of the harmful and smelly resins. I built a climate controlled enclosure for it, and it prints wirelessly, so super fun and easy!
Great to hear! I'm running test prints on siraya tech cast resin right now. Gotta get these printers making me stuff in metal somehow!
Great video. I just learnt that printer resin has shelf life.
Yeah some of them have clearly marked dates on the bottle, others dont. I see newer bottles seem to show a 2 year shelf life, older bottles show a 1 year shelf life. That bottle I talked about was considerably older than that lol
@@PaulsGarage Update: I *also* just learnt that I have 5x bottles of 2y out of date resin 😅 yay for learning!
Lol oh no! You can always try it out? The stuff I had was translucent red, different resins might be more shelf stable?
No espresso maker?! 😱
That, right there, is a deal-breaker! Then again, there's always the _mmm, forbidden brown/grey sludge!_ 🤤
The resin, hmm, I bought a 4k resin printer and the wash 'n' -wax- cure station to go with it, plus 4 or 5 bottles of resin, along with all of the ancillaries, too ... _the Crimbo before last!!!_ I've not used it even once, but I'm sure the resin will be absolutely fine to -drink- use, though. Won't it? 🤔
The odd thing is, I FDM print like a maniac, and I even printed stuff for the new (now old) printer, but don't ask me why I've never used the SLA 'cos, like, I dunno. 🤷
It's a totally different experience in my opinion. You should give it a try, you might like it. You might hate the smell of resin, though. You never know until you give it a shot!
I have resins that are years old and they work fine, just shake it up before printing.
You are funny.🤣 Problem with this printer I found, it is very slow and it has limited settings compared to other printers, like the Elegoo.
I love your episodes but I am still making patterns out of painted wood. However, try ad I might, I can't make decent letters so 3D printers remain intriguing.
Keep up the good work!
Cheers from Alaska
I've heard you can buy sets of plastic letters for signs, stick them on a wooden pattern. Then you can pop them off and reuse them for the next project or change the text
Sun? lol, I live in northern England ;) Great video mate
Ok maybe not for you lol 🌧️
One of these days Im just going to have to break down and buy one of these. Ive heard good things about Creality. Seems like they're commonly used in the maker space.
It seems like every couple weeks they get cheaper. This one in this video is crazy cheap for how good it is especially since just a few years ago worse machines cost $2k. It's crazy.
Easy to work out the angle to your printer using the micron of it! Angles are not all for every printer 45° 30° no use the Arcan chart of the angle of micron to get your angles
Been really thinking of getting a resin printer now for my metal casting. I don’t like layer lines.
You totally should. It's a steeper learning curve than FDM printing and it's a bit messier, but the print quality is unbelievable. You have to use casting resins though,, you can't get away with normal resin for investment casting. PLA ash isn't quite as hard as normal resin ash.
Resin printers are especially good at not having layer lines. The detail is incredible. Even mid range printers these days are crazy good.
Would having a uv light dry them?
Bought older version year or so ago, couldn't get it to work
Note on the alcohol, once too dirty to use you could distill it to remove the contaminants and continue using it. Better for the environment IF your electricity is clean (unlikely in the US).
My electricity is definitely 100% natural gas. It's a very new plant, so it's about as clean as gas gets, but no solar or wind or nuclear for me
@@PaulsGarage Another method: wait for most of the resin to settle towards the bottom, and then place your bucket in the sun. Most of the resin in the bucket will cure out and slowly sink to the bottom, you can then and filtered the hardened resin out.
Costs zero money and makes your isopropanol last a whole lot longer.
Hey Paul, I'm 0/3 on printing with my new Halot Mage 8k. I just cant get it to stick to the build plate. I've leveled and tightened the screws as instructed. I'm using Creaality resin and have upped the exposer but still the prints turn out as pancakes in the resin pool. I'm still just trying to print the sliced files that came with the printer. Also tried slicing the provided stl with new exposure values. Any other suggestions?
Sorry to hear that! I would first make sure the plate is level, you said you have done that. Then I would make sure it's the right height. If you leveled the build plate above the screen with a single sheet of printer paper, you should be ok. If you use anything thicker, the bed is too high. I always throw out any included cards and just use printer paper.
Next I would check base exposure. I use 30-50 seconds depending on the resin.
I would also clean the build plate totally with alcohol and try again. Sometimes the plates come with a coating that causes problems.
Lastly, I heard of someone who took the textured plate a roughed it up with some really course sand paper. This is the same idea as roughing up a surface for glueing. I didn't do this but maybe there is some variation between machines.
Let me know if you are having other issues, and join the discord server (link in video description) for help, CZcams doesn't always notify me of comment replies
So... I'm here because i Found this Printer Solo for 280$ and i'm feeling like thats as close to a Free Resin Printer as i'll ever get. Then i click your link and its 60$ Cheaper.
Printer prices change every hour it seems. I didn't mention the price because while editing this video it went from 400 to 300 to 380 then 299 lol
Lmk when you want to try some OPR, been playing for a hot min!
Will do! I've done some of the tutorial missions from the quick start guide with my daughter but so far haven't had time to try out a full game. Hopefully soon
Do you believe that the resin 3d printers could make resistents things like gears? Thank you very much!
it's possible, but with limitations. In my experience, the stiffer resins tend to be more brittle, and less brittle resins are more flexible. Neither are good for gears that need to hold a lot of weight or that need to mesh cleanly (for high speed, for example). There are some good tough, rigid resins out there, but i'm not sure they compete with injection molded plastic gears. Also, resin prints can warp over time, also not great for gears. You can cast the printed gears in metal, which would help, but for high speed/high strength gears (think car transmissions) you really need them to be machined from metal, not cast with teeth in place. So i guess it all depends on what you are making.
@@PaulsGarage Tks!👍
i didnt buy any type of 3d printer but i wanna buy that 3d printer are we rebottling the resin easy or hard can you tel me about it
Use a funnel and it isn't hard, but you will have to clean the side of the vat afterwards
Can these molds be used same as lost PLA method for casting?
With the right resin, it's even better than lost PLA
I want to start printing oni masks will this do or do i need a bigger one?
Depends how big you want the masks to be. I can print a mask for me using this printer, but the masks I made don't have teeth and horns sticking out. Something you can do to check is download lychee, a slicer, and put the oni mask file in there with this printer selected. If it fits, you're good. If not, you'll need a Jupiter or sonic mega. It's a good way to check sizing before you buy anything
What's the smallest prints you have repeated on the halotbox mage
Repeated? I don't repeat a ton of prints, but I have printed some very small things or very small details on larger things. I printed a large item at 1mm thin, no issues, and some minis I printed to test it out have long skinny parts smaller than 1mm in diameter and they work fine. Pixel size is 29.5 microns but obviously you can't print a thing that small. The detail on the printer is good enough that the limiting factor is probably the resin and not the printer itself
Nice overview.
Thanks!
first thing i recommend printing is a funnel cone
You aren't kidding! Those vats definitely do not pour very well lol
Nice Review!!! I'm currently a Creality user...got an Ender 6!!! Regarding the alcohol, I wonder if there is some kind of distiller to re-clarify your alcohol??? Heat it, vaporize it, & re-condense it through cooling???🤔 Doing this should only leave resin particulates/sludge in the boiler/evaporator to dispose of!!!
I saw a video where a guy was using ceramic filters to remove resin. It worked pretty well if he kept cleaning the resin off of the surface of the filters. Might be worth a try? Seems like most of the particles will settle out and sink to the bottom, too. Not a problem in a bucket but in one of these wash stations it gets stirred up
@@PaulsGarage Seems like that would be kinda labor intensive!!! Seems like heating and fractionating the alcohol vapor off and then condensing it would be much easier!!! ...just need a glass carboy with a rubber stopper with a hole in it for a piece of coiled copper tube that can be run through an ice bath and dripped out the other end!!!
I think you're right. The video said he didn't try that because heat and alcohol vapor scared him lol
@@PaulsGarage I think that would be a cool feature video on how to recycle/distill your alcohol wash from 3D printing!!!😁👍🏻
@PaulsGarage Alcohol vapor won't combust if there is no open flame. You'd be vaporizing it in a closed container right before condensation. You could use a variable temperature hotplate for better control...just have it hot enough to vaporize but well below the "flash point". BTW, I think the air filters on your Resin 3D printer are "activated charcoal"/carbon??? I used to work on copy machines and to neutralize Ozone from the high voltage corona discharge wire they used carbon impregnated filters that looked like a cross section cut stack of corrugated cardboard.
compare elegoo mars 4 which is better?
There are a few different Mars printers. They are all smaller than the Creality Mage, but some of the Mars printers (like the ultra) have better resolution. So it depends what you are looking for
Hi Paul,
Great video,
We are actually foundry pattern makers and are looking for a 3D printer for all our small loose pieces and impeller vanes.
This creality looks good,
But build size could do with being a little bigger,
And other suggestions would you go for this.
Are the parts solid and strong ?
Thanks
The strength of the parts really depends on the resin more than the printer. There are some very tough resins out there, but generally strength comes at a sacrifice to cost or sharpness of resolution or something like that. In my experience the resin prints aren't as tough as, for example, injection molded ABS, but the right resin should be strong enough for most applications. I haven't broken a resin pattern yet and I sometimes pound on them a bit hard.
For build size you need to figure out what size you need and buy a printer slightly bigger than that. Too small is a major issue, too big isn't. There are bigger printers than the 10" Creality mage. I think the elegoo Jupiter is a 12", and a phrozen sonic mega is a 15" or something like that, but both of those are more expensive and don't have resolution as sharp. I don't have experience with any of the larger ones, but @vogman does, he might be able to give you some feedback.
The build plates are all rectangular in shape, so you should probably find the exact x-y-z build dimensions and go off of that to pick a printer for your needs rather than 10" or 12" or whatever. I was somewhat surprised by how small a 10" build plate really is, but you can certainly print a lot on one plate.
For something like impeller vanes, resin printers like this are great but you will have to experiment with print orientation to make sure they come out without any warping or anything. I found if I took a cube and printed it in different orientations it could actually be out of square. Again that comes down in part to the resin.
These printers are all inexpensive Chinese (and Taiwanese) models, if you need more industrial machines, the prices are quite a bit higher. I don't know what your needs or budget are, but I was pretty shocked how good the prints looks on these cheap printers.
I hope this helps!
Thanks for the comprehensive reply It sounds like you have good knowledge,
At this point we are just experimenting so one of the cheap Chinese ones will do,
Hopefully it will give us another string to our bow.
Thanks Again 👍
I'm extremely new to 3d printing but so far, as far as I can tell resin 3d printing seems way more of a hassle vs non-resin 3d printing. Why would someone want the extra hassle or what are the benefits to resin 3d printing? All I seen was the prints are just a bit better quality.
Great question. I've done a lot of both resin and FDM printing, and to be honest, there isn't a "better" option overall. They both do very different things, so it depends on what you want to make. It isn't just that resin is better quality in general, but that resin prints are a whole different level of small detail. It's not even close. But resin printers tend to be smaller for similar cost, and resin per volume is often more expensive (and much more fiddly). that isn't to say FDM printing is free from problems, some filaments are even more problematic than resins. I wouldn't pick based on which one seems like a hassle, but which one excels in the way that matters to you. I think of it like MIG and TIG welding. They're both welders, but they do very different things. Sure, they can do the job of the other to some extent, but often for a specific task one is clearly better. Get both if it's in the budget.
@@PaulsGarage thanks, that makes total sense. I like my bambu p1s. I like being able to print functional parts for around the house and shop. I think I chose the correct printer. Thanks!
Is that a Leach mug on your desk?
Simon Leach, yep. From the batch of glaze where he accidentally put in too much wood ash so it got extra runny.
What’s the difference between this and a filament 3d printer
They both make plastic parts in layers, but everything else is different. Filament printers use heat to melt plastic to form the layers, but resin printers harden a liquid plastic using UV light. In my experience FDM printers are cheaper to run, and resin printers are better for details. It all depends what you want. I stand by my position that you should have both, but I understand not everybody wants or can fit or afford both.
A decent resin printer produced layers around the height of a human hair, aka barely visible at the end.
A filament printer is limited by the size of the nozzle the hot filament has to go trough, hence a typical setting goes down to around 0.2mm (unless you are half blind those layer lines will very much be visible).
Filament printers are indeed cheaper to run, and they generally are way faster printers. Hence they have a place in 3d printing, it all depends on what you actually want to print.
In general filament printers are used for large prints, the type of stuff that would take forever with a resin printer.
That and larger surfaces can be smothed out by sanding (and other methods), to get rid of thos pesky layer lines.
Meanwhile resin printers excel at printing smaller more complicated prints, the type of stuff you take a close look at and that would be a nightmare/ impossible to sand down (etc) if printed with filament.
"I LOVE old Japanese cars" - I have about 30 cars, about half Japanese, you'd get a kick out of quite a few I'm sure :-) maybe even some of the sweet old euro ones, too. Nothing after 1998 except one parts car engine donor from 04 for a 92 :-)
Care to join the discord and share some pics? I would love to see! I only have 1 pre'98 Japanese car, it's a 1988 Mazda 323 GTX. The 4wd turbo one. Got a couple newer than 98 though! My mom has an old 88 supra, too. Great era for Japanese cars.
@@PaulsGarage sure, I can do that :-) if you don't have a fan's cars section make one so I feel welcome ;-)
@@fredio54 there is a car section 😉
@@PaulsGarage there is a problem. Your discord is not limked from your yt about, video description, or any post in yt community which I hadn't even found until now. Can you: add it to about, add it to future vid description link sets, anywhere else you feel is valuable :-)
@@fredio54 there should be a link in the description of this video, it's supposed to do that automatically. You have to scroll down a ways I think. I'll add one to the about section too.
Hello, I am new at resin printing and am a little bit scared, do you think 3d printing is worth the risk because I heard a lot and am not sure if I am safe anymore I wear mask and gloves and I try to be very careful but I have read many horror stories, is resin that big deal , do you have any health problems from resin, if a spill happens it will be a huge problem for my health?
Great question. I think resin printing is perfectly safe if you follow a few safety practices. Definitely wear gloves touching anything that isn't a fully cleaned and cured part, and for the fumes I personally leave everything in a garage, not my house. I don't honestly wear a mask very much but I also don't spend lots of time in the room with the printers running or with exposed resin. If you never touch the resin, wear a respirator with VOC filters, and don't hang out with the running printers for hours a day, you will be fine.
The only issue I get is itchiness if I'm not careful and I get resin or resin contaminated alcohol on my skin. Limit your contact and you should be fine.
@@PaulsGarage ty for you reply, also I want to ask if I need specific clothing when I am working with resin or you can wash resin from clothing with ipa?
Ipa would work but honestly if I get resin on my clothes I just put them in the washer like normal
*Takes notes.."Don't drink the resin."
👀👀👀👀👀👀👀
👀👀👀
So what you saying is don’t use this in my room?
Probably a bad idea to breathe resin fumes yeah
Cones of calibration doesn't work for larger screens if you match it to a validation matrix v2 it's way off! It needs a some tweaking for larger printer's to give an accurate test print till then use a validation matrix V2 card! When the cones print perfect on say a 10in screen then double check it to The validation matrix you won't recognise the matrix it's so over or under exposed so yeah wouldn't use it for anything 6.6in screen
That might explain the trouble I'm having. I've started using the calibration matrix, then the amerilabs town and minis from OnePageRules as my calibration now and that's seems to work better.
any slicers for Linux that don't require me sign over my first born to the Chinese?
Unsure about Linux compatibility. I'm also unsure if any of the slicers *aren't* Chinese. I think they all are derivations of the same few programs, and all probably Chinese.
@@PaulsGarage being Chinese isn't the problem, it's the obnoxious account requirement for lychee et al
Account? I didn't sign up for an account to use lychee or Halot box. I didn't pay for premium though, gotta sit through ads to slice 😕
@@PaulsGarage lychee required an account to use, did that change?
chitubox has a Linux version now too
guess I should have checked again
@@PaulsGarage guess I'm getting a resin printer after harvest
as someone who has only printed with a signle FDM printer and normally can spend between 2 and 5 days printing one model, if not more time, I find it absurd how people who print in resin think that 8 or 12 hours is printing is too long. doing a perfect print of a 19cm bust with no supports, with jerk control, slow printing of walls for best result, and a layer hight of 0.6 or 0.8mm can take between 2 and 4 days. all that to somewhat mimick the level of detail that a resin printer can offer in less than 10 hours.
I agree, speed is not the answer. I have a couple new "fast" FDM printers too and I discovered the secret to make them work beautifully: slow the speeds back down 🤣
I enjoyed your videos, and I don't do any of the stuff that you do
Glad you like the videos! You can always try some of the things I do!
Designating printers by the K number is stupid. They should use resolution. The Halot 8k should be the Halot 30um or Just Halot 30.
I like that idea. Post the screen size and pixel size, leave the "k" garbage out of it. Also wow this video is old. The halot 30um is still working perfectly well after all this time
@@PaulsGarage Thanks. I use Phrozen machines. But it's good to see what else is out there.
Probably the worse printer to start with its to fast the motor build plate was FAUX HAMMERS video on it first the resin refill nossle breaks easy and the fan cover the build plate gets stuck underneath it
Faux hammers video was a different printer. All the problems he had were related to the Halot Mage PRO, this is not the pro, just the standard 8k. No high speed, no resin nossle to break off, none of those features. Just an 8k printer and nothing extra
Microns per inch !
My brain short circuited because I was being forced to use metric terminology. I had to slip in the "inch" to maintain sanity 😂
Some printers from Creality are designated as DLP but it's none of them. The best ones has monochromatic==black and white LCD screen and not Digital-Light-Processor from Texas Instrument. The 'small' difference is 10-2000 hours against more than 20.000 hours for REAL DLP. I do not appreciate such 'oh so small mistake' to mislead the potential customers. Mono LCD has own positive properties, so has DLP but they are not the same technology. Halot Mage is shining exception, it IS NOT advertised to be DLP as are like Halot Sky .... and many other, also from other companies.
They do? I don't see any for sale at the moment but I might not be looking in the right place
Oh I see it now, they say parallel emission etc.. and you have to dig to see "LCD".
Did you just say use rubbing alcohol? NO, use Isopropyl alcohol.
Same thing
More fail than succeed, ripped apart by sticking to the fep film even tried nfep.
Solve this issue by getting a .3mm ACF film, now I don't get prints tearing apart like I did with NFEP.
get to the point!
No espresso maker? Ok deal breaker. I'm out.
I completely understand