How To: Replace Oil Cooler Lines, 2007 - 2013 Chevrolet Silverado or GMC Sierra (4x4) the EASY way
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- čas přidán 10. 05. 2021
- I just don’t know who is more exhausted after that job, me or Kyle. But don’t worry, in another instalment of our “Maintenance Minute” series, Kyle makes the job of changing the oil cooler lines in his 2012 Chevrolet 1500, 6.2L Silverado, a walk in the park. Which is especially important if you have your shop dogs with you! Follow along until the end and help yourself problem solve as you work on your next big home car project.
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This video is the most entertaining truck repair I’ve ever seen! The voice over is hilarious and I’m sure it will help keep me calm when I a pissed off trying to fix it. My wife was laughing at me being so entertained and the voice over sounds like Dax Shepard.
We sure do love Dax Shepard, especially in the new Top Gear America......I'll tell Kyle and I'm sure he'll enjoy the compliment! Thanks for watching and more to come soon!
Thank you for this video. I completed this nightmare task recently and found the video to be crucial for success. Oh, next time that oil cooler line starts leaking I’m selling the truck lol.
Happy to help! When we tackled this job there were no full videos out there so... we decided we ought to make one! Kind of spurred the new style of our channel, check out our other videos and let us know if we've stayed on the right track!
$250 is what it cost me to have put in. Labor and part. Sometimes it's worth the headache lol
Just tackled this job myself and thanks to your video saved from going to the stealership! I’m glad some people were able to avoid pulling the motor mount. I dropped the fwd driveshaft and tried to get the lines out. Long story short I ended up just doing what you did. If these ever leak again though I’m slapping on that flex tape like in the as seen on tv commercials 🤣
Happy to hear that it worked out for you! Yeah, next time it leaks just sell it on Craigslist. "Runs great, no issues". Kidding... but this job really does suck! At least we were able to make it suck less for you!!
I tackled this repair this weekend. Ordered the new lines a few weeks ago but dreaded actually replacing them.. and i was proven right, lol. I will take to the junkyard before replace these a second time haha.
Your video was very helpful. Very informative.
In the end i couldnt get the steering shaft out. Was rusted in place bad. Sprayed, hit, and torched but nothing broke it free. Further, i couldn’t for the life of me get to the motor mount bolts. Only got two of the seven before i aborted mission and went a different route.
Ended up removed the drive shaft and tucking out of way. Removed oil filter and started to remove the front diff. Just dropping it down a few inches without having to fully remove was exactly the trick. I was able to easily slide out the old lines and slide the new ones in in a matter of minutes after deciding to drop the diff down.
I got that idea from some comments on your video.
Still a great way you have there, I just couldn’t get it done that way, which is my fault, not yours.
Still, your video got me all informed and ready for this which was invaluable on the end.
Kudos to you sir, wouldn’t have been able to without this.
Btw, Idk if you get this a lot but i kept thinking this was Dax Shepard narrating this. Made it that much better, lol
Thanks again. Will be back for others
Thanks for the comment, Zak!
Yes. We hear Dax or Derek from VGG.. both are flattering! We're happy to help, and even happier to entertain. We keep hearing about the front differential method, seems it might be easier from what people say.
We're with you on the junkyard plan! Or maybe just a block off plate for the oil cooler. We've even heard people say they just cut the line and add a rubber section. No matter what you do, you gotta throw a few profanities at Chevy during the repair!
I did this yesterday without removing any of that. I disconnected the front drive shaft and removed the oil filter(changed the oil while i was at it). It took a few hours. I did see the electrical connector that could be easily damaged. I had my neice and nephew as helpers, but if you're doing it by yourself, then I'd say make the extra room by removing fender, steering, and motor mount. I like how much you could see in your video. Most others I've watched about this process dont even show them running the new lines.
Always good to have helpers! We've read a few comments and it seems there are multiple ways to do this job. Glad to hear you got it done, and we appreciate the feedback!
That was a great video,you explained everything so well and a little bit of humor 😄 I love it.
Thanks! We have a lot more coming!
Everyone knows "shiny adds speed" 🤣 Love it. Great video - love the detail - helped me out lots.
Excellent! Glad to help!
Thanks for this video! You inspired me to save a bunch of time! To add to your method, you can save even more time doing the following:
1)Remove drivers side inner fender.
2)Remove 3 motor mount bolts on each motor mount to frame connection.
3)Use a 1x6 about 12” long vertically between the axle and cross member to jack the entire engine up out of the mount seats.
4)Lines will now maneuver between motor mount and frame.
Awesome! We’ll keep those in mind if we ever have to do this job again! Thanks for watching!
I'm about to tackle this job, and appreciate all the tips.
Absolutely loved your video love your sense of humor good commentary keep up the good work your video not only made me laugh but it was very informative
Thanks! You keep watching and we’ll keep making them.
I did this job on my 2010 Silverado 1500 4wd a couple days ago. I discounted the drive shaft and the engine mount, jacked up the engine about 2 inches. I did not need to remove the engine mount, only removed the bolts, however I am small enough to fit between the fan and front of the engine to squeeze my hand behind the power steering pump to remove the line mount bolt. Perfect amount of space and completed in 3-4 hours. Took awhile to twist and turn the leaking ones out but I surprised myself with getting the new ones in super quick.
Nice job! Sounds like a good way to get it done!
good video.and your good attitude gets you through these tough jobs!
You might be right! Thanks for the feedback, glad you enjoyed the video
Best video I've seen for this and I've seen most of them. Because these lines repeat leaking, I cut the lines and flared them and used hose clamps. It's lasted for years, but it's leaking again due to not have the flares in the best spots.
Thanks for the feedback! Our goal is always to entertain, but we enjoy hearing about when people find our videos helpful! Check out our channel page. There might be one or two more videos on there that you'll enjoy!
Great video, got my sub!
Definitely like you and wait till the end to clean garage.
Thanks, we really appreciate the support!
Excellent video, and a nice alternative route for folks not wanting to (or capable of) dealing with the front axle interference. GM packaging on this deal makes this repair a PITA. Also, props for getting Dax Shepherd to do all the voiceover for this vid. 😎 🍺 😉
Dax is one of the boys!
Great videos. Really helpful. Thanks.
Thanks for watching!
I’ve replaced all the rotted out brake lines on my 2003 Tahoe before selling….hardest one was from ABS module to rear axle….tightest place for a brake line…I’m hoping I’ll figure out how to snake the new oil cooler lines easier lol, video helps a lot! Thank you
You're welcome! Happy to hear it was helpful... every now and again we get lucky and figure out an easy way to do stuff. When we do, we share.
this guy is a champion narrator
Much appreciated!
Amazing video! Thank you.
Thanks for watching! We really appreciate it!
Great Vid Bro 💯💯💯
Much appreciated! Don't forget to like and subscribe, we upload all sorts of videos. Some are great, others are trash, all are guaranteed to be entertaining in some way or another.
nice work💯
Much appreciated!
thanks for the confidence. I managed to shove mine in from the back (fed the longer one first then the shorter). only got stuck on the end piece which I dropped the sway bar for. I did end up loosening one motor mount so when I dropped the sway bar I also jacked half an inch higher with the motor. do not know how effective it was because my jack leaks out. I also removed the front splash guard but nothing else. I am not sure if AWD is easier than 4wd. 08 escalade awd
Sounds like you made it through, sometimes that’s all that matters!
i like ur video so much!
Hey! Thanks for checking it out and we're glad you enjoyed it!
Love the video. Little tech tip: put some electrical tape on your swivel and it will hold it steady and still allow you to manipulate it. About to tackle this myself. I will probably go with removing axle seems a little less hectic. Thank you for this video. 🙏🏽
Thanks for the tip! We'll give it a shot. Yes, if you have the ability to remove the axle that is faster, this was primarily to show it can be don't without that step, thanks for watching!!
Great job 👏 editing it, loved the whole video!
I’m hoping my 5.3 motor is easier then yours.
Thank you for the feedback! Happy to help. Unfortunately, if you have a 4x4 it will be the same =(. The block is the same on the outside and GM used the exact same part for both engines (GM Part # 20828695). Sorry! At least you have an entertaining video to guide you through the process =)
@@NiceGuysGASS Ok, Yes and thank you! I did it but it wont stop leaking after putting in the new one. I did use the new gasket and made sure it was clean. I used lock washers one time and it still leaked through the bolt part, strange but without washers it still leaks very slightly. I don't want to go to tight so i strip them. I'll try cleaning both sides again. Thanks Again.
Hey Robert, did you ever get that leak figured out? Sometimes the block side can be tricky and the old gasket or washers will be stuck causing problems with the sealing surface
@@robcbr91 on the cooler block some have a plug facing the back of the engine and the o-ring will leak.
I agreed to take on this job for my neighbor. His truck had the 8.1 liter motor and as you can imagine, the clearance was impossible without removing the steering link and dropping the front differential. If somebody asked me to do this job again, I'd probably go to jail for murder.
Yes, the big block would make our method impossible! Usually GM is well designed for the shade tree guys but these lines were clearly designed by suit and tie engineers...
you just gained a sub, sir.
Happy to have another one join the shenanigans! We encourage all who enjoy the content to subscribe... regardless of whether you laugh with or laugh at us
Thanks for the vid, couldn’t find much for 4wd trucks. Gonna take a stab at this soon. Looks doable
It absolutely is. Some of our viewers have said dropping the front axle down a few inches is easier... not sure if it is, but we've replaces the front diff on this truck (after this video) and it wasn't too bad.
@@NiceGuysGASS part way thru rn following your video. Should have it wrapped up tomorrow. Engine mount is loose and it looks straight forward from there. I don’t see any reason to drop the front diff at all, that’s part of why I put it off until I found your video 😂 cheers
How did this story end? Don't leave us with us cliffhanger!
@@NiceGuysGASS haha it’s all done! No leaks, took me a couple days but honestly a weekend of work. I think the hardest part was getting the stupid engine mount off. Dropping bolts, buying a replacement then eventually finding the old ones. Most my sockets were either too short or too long. Took me 5 minutes to get the line out and another 5 to get it in
Happy to hear it all went well! It can be a bit of a bear when you're trying to work in that tight space. Next time it starts leaking, you can anyways sell the truck!
Nice video. I'm a mechanic and that motor mount is hell. Instead I pulled the front of the front driveshaft and dropped it down and pulled the lines out the rear and didn't touch motor mount, diff, or jack engine. Didn't take too long.
That does seem easy! When we do this job again, we might give that method a go, thank you for sharing!
Can u explaina little further how you did that without the motor mount removal
@@NORCALPYRO_ He said he disconnected the front of the drive shaft and dropped it
@@tiehnporesources7078 thanks bro
Here in Canada, when I'm putting things back together, I put antiseize on all the fasteners, and Coppercoat on manifold bolts. Just incase I have to take it apart another time.
We use anti-seize on a lot of parts, just depends on the part and the likelihood of removal again. Definitely on wear parts.
Hi. I thought about adding an oil cooler line to my 4.8 ltr, 4wd Silverado 1500. It did not come factory with one. The reason is my radiator is leaking and would be cool upgrade. Would by 4.8 ltr have this much trouble also? I don't know if I should even bother adding an oil cooler line but seems like the oil would last a bit longer having it. Any advice guys? Thank you!!!
If you wanted to route the lines in the stock location, you'd have these issues with the install because the external block size is the same.
In our opinion, if you're not running into issues with the oil overheating from heavy and consistent towing, off roading, hauling, etc - don't mess with it. The oil won't necessarily last longer because physical contaminants will cause the need for an oil change long before viscosity loss due to temperature fluctuations (usually).
Hope this helps!
Lol… Truck falling down on you face kind off ruins your day, great video brother. I have to do the same on my 08 sierra
Thanks for watching! Let us know how it goes!
I would put the clips back in as soon as the lines were removed. Only cuz I lose everything lol😂. Also you should have started and ran the truck and then checked the oil. Your new oil lines were still empty. Thanks for the video. Lets me know what I am fixing to have to do.
Good idea with the clips! And yes, always a good idea to double check the oil level after running for a few moments, but we also recommend checking before first start to make sure you don't accidentally start an engine without oil in it!
Thanks for the feedback, check out our other videos... some are helpful, others are purely dumb and entertaining. We'll let you decide which is which!
Do I really have to take the motor mount off? After getting under the truck it looks like I have enough room to fanagle new lines into place...thanks!
We just like doing things the easy way and it turns out sometimes the easy way is the hard way. Taking the motor mount out isn’t really that bad, but trying to squeeze through with “just enough room” is. Our goal is to do the fighting for you so you can spend your time better. Good luck, and let us know how it goes.
Your video almost makes an amateur mechanic a bit hesitant to take this job on! (stupid suit and tie engineers) I had to remind myself that I have replaced the heater core in a C4 Corvette, and nothing could be worse than that, so... wish me luck! ;)
Good luck! We’re here with you!
Assuming this is the same part for an 08 1500 with a 6.0L?
Should be, but double check just in case we're wrong!
Also pull lines out through bottom the way they are bent you’ll have a hell of a time getting them out through the front way easier to pull out through bottom and feed in the Same way I just pulled driveshaft off front diff and set it out of way. Much easier!!
Good advice for people that are going to use this method. Glad to hear the repair went well!
Does this just happen because it dry rods or something or is this because of a bigger mechanical issue?
It is just a normal Chevy leak. Both sets of lines, oil and transmission, leak over time. It is probably related to rubber failure and the connection between rubber and metal.
Any time I pull a wheel , I stick it face down under the vehicle as close to the removal point as I can.
As it may save your life if the jack or stand fails.
Be safe brother. Good video.
This is good advice, we will typically use some level of redundancy (extra jack stand, jack still in place, etc), and this idea is in line with that. Thanks for sharing, and thanks for watching!
@@NiceGuysGASS You’re welcome 👍
This is like if vice grip garages son was making an episode when he gets older 😂
Nice!
Just changed them on a 2011 I just loosened up 4 bolts on front diff and got them out I definitely wouldn’t go through the headache of pulling motor mounts😂 either way it’s a dam headache good luck!
It is a headache! Next time (it's a Chevy, there will be a next time) we might do it your way, see if we like it better
That’s all I did. Loosen 4 front diff bolts until differential hit the crossmember, hoses came right out…with 10 or so four letter words.
what is the part number i have a 2010 silverado and it has a leak
There is a link in the description!
My lines are leaking from radiator in and out .. they are loose with the touch ?
Pop them out and replace the clips, might solve the problem!
Thank you. It's very informative & entertaining. I'm a woman & want to try to do this job by myself because I spend a lot of money (on many vehicles) to the shops & automotive guys to do the repairs. Some are not good & all expensive. I want to replace the rubber tubes method. What tool should I use to cut the rubber tube? Do I use a 3/8" fuel line? Is 40 PSI good enough or has to be 50 PSI? Is the regular steel clamp that you use a small socket or screwdriver to tighten good enough? If I need to replace the steering lines. Can I use the same method by reusing the old tubes & using the same fuel lines & clamps to replace the rubber parts? I also have a problem that oil gets into the cooling system, not much, floating on the top in radiator & reservoir. But no water in the oil, I'm positive that it's NOT blown head gasket. Can you tell me from what part that the oil gets into the cooling system? The Chevy mechanic at the dealership told me it has to be from the engine side. This is a 94 Chevy K1500 truck with 126,5xx miles. I have very little knowledge about mechanical but I learn a lot of CZcams now. I want to tackle these jobs first before I have to send it to the shop. I have already spent a lot of money on this truck & it will need a lot of work because the original owner did not take good care of the truck & all are original parts so I can see the big expenses are coming. I'm considering selling it after I do all these repairs (driveshaft start leaking too). The oil has been leaking for a long time & the previous owner never take care of it. I'm the 2nd owner, I might use less than 30,000 miles. Help & Advice, please.
Pat, thanks for reaching out. You absolutely can not replace only the rubber parts of the line. No, you can not use fuel line. No, you can not use hose clamps. While the oil lines on a GMT 400 (1994 Chevrolet K1500) are similar to those shown on this video, the process will be slightly different. The same applies for your power steering lines. They need to be replaced with proper parts.
As far as the oil in the coolant, there are a number of variables, but the most common would be a head gasket. There are also a number of other possibilities including a cracked block, but without a proper diagnosis, there is no way for us to be sure.
Oil pressure gets to 100psi and if it blows the hose off, you will likely need a new engine
You could just delete the oil cooler lines with a block off plate for like 20 bucks. It's cheaper and better. Less likely to leak again. And your oil pressure will go up.
Very true, but with all the towing this rig does we wanted to keep the oil cooler. Block off plate is a much cheaper solution though
Good point I hardly ever tow with my avalanche 6.0 I think I'll be looking for the block off plate cool suggestion.
My local GM dealership just quoted me over $1400 because mine are leaking and that sounded excessively expensive. Are they nuts or what?
That sounds about right for dealership pricing. Good thing someone made this video…..
Did you have to lock your steering wheel straight?
Didn't lock the steering wheel, but it is a good idea to use a bungee strap to keep it from turning while it's disconnected
I came for the clip part but stayed for the whole video bc yes, all the swears were said trying to Tetris the danged new line in there 😂.
I wish i could get a closer look at the clips. I think putting the line in first will be better for me seeing as i dont have a lift and im going in almost blind in some spots
It's quite the experience... try it one way and if that isn't working, try the other way. Who knows - you might learn a better way and teach us!
If my Radiator is broken where they oil cooler line goes that means I can lose oil pressure right??
It could be cosmetic, it could be a leak where you lose pressure. Typically damage causing pressure loss will cause a visible leak. If you don't have a leak but suspect pressure drops you probably have blockage that would likely be cleared with a good flush product. Send us some pictures of the damage we'll give our opinion (although we still don't recommend following our advice)
You can do this by taking out the 2 bolts that hold the front differential up on the drivers side. Comes out the front. No need to take the steering apart.
We have heard about this method, and it seems it may be even easier! Next time we tackle this (it's a Chevy, it'll happen again) we will have to film this other method.
Can some one please explain the process of dropping the front axel it sounds much easier but there are 0 videos out there
We have just that exact video.
How To: Change the Front Differential in a 2007-2013 Chevrolet 1500
czcams.com/video/Ixfy5PL4x6M/video.html
Help! I started this process and the steering rack won’t come out! I took out all the bolts and it will not budge whatsoever
Penetrating spray (PB blast or similar) and heat should do it. Sometimes they like to rust together.
Why would the intermediate shaft on my truck give me such a hard damn time removing it?? My truck looks exactly like yours but that black part won't budge. Any tips??
It is probably seized due to rust and corrosion. Heat and PB blaster should help
@@NiceGuysGASS that's exactly what I was thinking BUT turns out mines a bit different. I had to remove the knuckle part with the boot around with the black intermediate as a assembly by removing the pinch bolt below the boot part. Yea idk why but the black intermediate part has a little punched tab by the bolt holes preventing it from being removed like how you did. A hour of yankin and pullin smartend me up. 🙄
Ha! Well... that's different. Chevy assembly line, what you get depends on the day of the week they built your truck and what parts they had laying around!
@@NiceGuysGASS lol I know right. My trucks a 2011 and I'm pretty sure they were bankrupt that year. Lol
I spent 4 hours trying to remove that black piece from the steering shaft. It wouldn't push in at the firewall. I might have to take it to a shop.
It might be seized from road grime or rust. If you have both the bolts out, try some penetrating fluid. If that doesn't work, you can always try some heat. These things don't always go as planned, especially when metal gets to rusting.
Why do your videos remind me exactly of Vice grip garage
It’s been said before. We work hard to apply our unique style to every video we film. Have you checked out our newest videos to see how we have grown as creators? Let us know what you think!
The most aggravating part of this job for me was the motor mount removal. I had to unblolt the bracket, turn it over, and remove it in three pieces before it would clear it's home area in the engine bay. I replaced the mount with a new one, because it was out and 10 years old, but I ended up cursing the gods and cut the front edge/side of the heat shield off completely because I could not see what I was doing to get the block bolts in. Took a while to align the bolt holes using the jack to move the engine up and down.
The engine mount is definitely the worst part of this job. Some have argued dropping the axle is easier, but with a few profanities and an adult soda or three - the engine mount is manageable!
Don’t even have to drop it just loosen it. I think this dude was drunk and wanted to do even more work by pulling motor mount lol
Isn't there another way to put those oil lines in without removing half the engine compartment?
Yes, you can drop the front differential. We haven't done it this way. But we're told you can get away with only dropping it a few inches and still leaving it attached - if you want to give that a try you can check out our video where we completely remove the front diff to see how it's supported in the truck.
czcams.com/video/Ixfy5PL4x6M/video.htmlsi=YVwsDkvQE8i0B6zh
Best of luck! Let us know how it turns out
This fuckin voice over 😂😂😂
Good video man
Thank you for the feedback! We are happy to entertain! Sometimes even inform? That's a stretch, but make sure you check out our other videos and maybe even subscribe to stay up on all the latest poorly unscripted voice overs by Kyle
They say to drop the diff for a reason. It’s much easier. Just a few bolts and drop it down a little and your right there at it. Don’t even have to drop it entirely.
We saw your other comment, sounds like you found an easier way!
3 bolts to drop front diff. Just did this job in about 25 mins. You do not remove diff you just drop it down. This way is way longer.
Dang it! Now we know for next time, hopefully you filmed your repair, and if so please send us the link so we can learn how to do it the easy way. It's a Chevy, it will leak again eventually
i need to replace the motor mount and the oil lines. . If I drop the diff can i get to the motor mount too?
@@Knotoncallfishing1 I personally don’t do that to do the engine mounts. I just take the inner fender out and take out the front driveshaft. If it’s on the driver side you’ll need a wobble socket that helps. But since you’re doing the lines too, it’s not gonna hurt you to have some extra room.
@@casey889011 thanks for the reply.
How many hours in real time didnt his take
Without filming, 2 - 3 hours.
Job pays 2.4 hours I normally get them done in 45 min to an hour just support the front diff and take the 2 bolts out and it can drop down enough to get them out and in granted I’m using a lift but I bet it wouldn’t be to hard with out one
My dealership quoted me 400 for oil cooler lines labor to going in next Saturday
That actually sounds halfway reasonable for dealership pricing!
@Nice Guys Garage & Speed Shop definitely cheaper than I thought it would be
Love the video but not gonna lie the pain in the buttness of this job makes me wanna go ahead and pay someone 😂
We wouldn’t blame you if you did. Just don’t be surprised when you get that bill….$$$. Let us know how it goes if you change you mind!
Good to know my weekends ‘bout to be a bitch😂
We’re pretty sure that was the point of the weekend from the beginning. Hopefully the video helps to make it a bit easier.
@@NiceGuysGASSI procrastinated 7 months for this on my hummer h2. Doing it as we speak and yes… it’s a bitch. Especially because my steering shaft doesn’t collapse and the whole box has to be removed in order to get it off. And my front crank sensor connector is siezed. And on my truck the lines have a bolt that supports the lines under the engine and you can only get it with a ratchet and a wobble 1 click at a time. 0/10 would just take it somewhere next time if I wasn’t banned from the gm dealer.
Great video tho.
@DarthSmartt Banned from the gm dealership sounds like it has a back story! Some others on here have said dropping the front axle is easier, maybe it is? We have another video that we recently did on how to replace the front diff in these rigs, it isn't all that bad and might be necessary given your unique hurdles!
The black tab on my oil cooler line refuses to stay on
Sometimes we go with the "it's probably over-engineered" mentality and full sent anyways... proceed at your own risk!
@@NiceGuysGASS lmao naaaa the oil line keeps popping off with the oil pressure build up.. huge leaks…
That does sound like an unavoidable problem you'll have to address. New line, New clip, or block off plate? 🤔
@@NiceGuysGASS new line…. Just did the timing cover gasket… oh well.
Instead of fighting with the lines to pull them out can't you just cut them? Video gave me the Vice Grip Garage feels love it!
You absolutely can. But for the purposes of an instructional video, and to make sure we know how to get them back in, we took on the fight so you don't have to!
@@NiceGuysGASS sounds great, thanks! Doing mine now similar to 2011 gmc 5.3. Only difference is the intermediate shaft does not slide you have to take it off the rack and pinion.
Dang, that's a pain. How did the process go?
@@jngmgmt1 I understand cutting the out cooler out but putting the the new one in are you going to cut it also?😂 Still have to get the new cooler in without any harm.
@@NiceGuysGASS it went smooth. It was just one bolt on the rack. Put it all back together and got it aligned. Running like a top now. Thanks again!
Just did this as mobile mechanic. Even by mechanic standards this job kind of sucks. Good video, though these oil pans are solid and you can get a 2 x 4 under there without messing with that cross member, manifold heat sheild can stay too. This truck is so not from the northeast. Watching that steering shaft slide off effortlessly made me angry.... As did those heat shield bolts not breaking. I can't be too mad because engine mount/ steering shaft is totally the way to go. Thanks
Glad it helped! We are lucky here in Colorado.. minimal rust issues. Happy to hear you found a way to improve our process, gotta love the 'tube... we all learn from each other.
Torque spec?
Can't recall, we probably just used the "Slighty snug, not too tight, just right" estimation.. but you might want to Google it. Ours didn't leak and seems to be holding up, but maybe we got lucky!
I removed the skid plate. Definitely drop the front axle 2” (it will rest on the cross member). I unbolted the two bolts on the driver’s side and loosened the two on the passenger side. The driveshaft can be unbolted to rest on the front sway bar. Leave the driveshaft inside the transfer case. Don’t remove the drive shaft. Then the oil cooler lines can come out towards the rear. Still a bitch but it is doable.
Hmmm... so what you're saying is there is more than one approach to this job, but all approaches might be equally terrible? Still, we'd be interested in watching a video of your process! Send us a link if you post one, and thanks for sharing.
Yes this way works but I had to go slow.
Raised the driver’s side with a Jack stand
Removed both the aluminum and plastic front skid plates.
Unbolted the front driveshaft and layed it on the sway bar. Later, I’d move left or right depending on where I needed room. I also covered the u-joint with a nitrile glove to keep it assembled and clean. Removed two bolts on rear oil cooler line and drained oil.
Unbolted the front cooler line bracket. For this, I used two extensions and a u-joint attached to the socket.
Removed both cooler lines like in your video.
Tied strong line to the shorter cooler line. (This allowed me to route the new lines during install).
Dropped the front axle as described above.
Took my time pulling the two cooler lines turning and tugging. If I got stuck, I’d check up front and release the tension. Covered the new cooler ends and block with a freezer ziplock and clear tape. Attached the cord to the new short cooler line and reversed the process.
It’s a simple but difficult task to accomplish. Lots of sliding on the floor and struggling. The most difficult thing was reattaching the cooler line bracket onto the engine block because you’re practically working by touch not sight. Took me way too many hours for this job (12). The time could be cut in half with a helper and if it’s the second go round.
I pulled it out the rear but didn't loosen diff at all.
I don't mean to be difficult, however, you don't need to do any of that, shred the old lines out any way possible, unhook the front part of the driveshaft, take off the tire, remove the inner fender, and the new lines will thred in, time and patience, 3rd time doing it....
Excellent advice! We’ll try that if we ever have to suffer through this job again!!
Never took anything down. You just gotta dance back and forth a little to snake them through
Yup! Just give ‘em a little shimmy
good thing my truck is not 4x4 because I also have to replace those lines
Sometimes the 2WD is the way to go! Let us know how it turns out!!
To be fair it’s not really a truck if it’s 2wd.
It's only 4 bolts to drop the axle lol
Yeah, but you haven't met Kyle.......or Tim or Dale for that matter....we are far too lazy to drop an axle, we would much rather do things the hard way!
Has anyone ever done this with an aftermarket oil cooler adapter and braided flexible hose? This looks like an absolute pain in the ass.
There's no reason that you couldn't do that! It'd be more expensive, but probably easier. You could also make a custom hose and feed them through one at a time instead of using the stock part? Lot of options.... could also just use a block off plate and just keep an eye on oil temperature when you tow? We chose the hard way
@@NiceGuysGASS Hey man, we've all been there. You don't find out an easier way until you spend about 6 hours on a project that should only take 2. Thank you for the video. My hoses are starting to leak up at the radiator, my mechanic that did my drum brakes told me about it and I know its only a matter of time. Appreciate the response, cheers!
LOL
Thanks! Kyle is always good for a laugh!
Old ones bad ?, If so just cut the rubber hoses in a few spots and all those angles won't be bad at all. Save the cuss words for when you put it back in hahaha
Ha! Yes that approach could work but Kyle wanted to make sure he knew the clearance was there to remove old lines before attempting to install new ones. At least there was no wrench throwing!!
Put some electrical tape around those elbows and they wont flop around anymore.
Nice tip! We’ll keep that in mind for next time. We love getting new ideas to make things easier. Helps everyone else out there looking for advice too!!
Only thing I learned was to not do this unfiortunatelty.
Sorry to hear that! Hopefully you find someone to do it for you cheap!
GM Corporation owes all of a refund for buying their vehicles.
Could be worse, at least you didn't buy a Ford!
Yeah… if I want Vice grip garage I’ll watch the original real deal…. Maybe find your own shtick! Lol
Thanks for watching!
Bro......this is the easy way????? Wtf
Some people argue that dropping the front end is easier. We've replaced the front diff in these units as well... it's kind of a toss up, but this method worked well for us!
I can tell by your commentary you watch alot of vice grip garage. You really need to do your own thing and quit copying others was enjoying your video until i heard you talking like his channel. Lost every bit of respect for ya just then.
We totally agree, Kyle lacks all originality. We’ll was his mouth out with soap this afternoon and see if we can get him squared away. Thanks for the feedback.
I feel like dropping the front axle is way easier. Three bolts and it drops enough to slip the cooler through. JS
We have heard that before and are pretty sure done in the comments have agreed. Let us know how it goes!