How To Install Ceiling Crown Molding
Vložit
- čas přidán 8. 11. 2011
- Visit my website RoysHowTo.com for more tips and how-to videos.
How to install ceiling crown molding. Installing ceiling crown molding can seem like a skill that is over your head, but follow these practical pointers to bring it down to earth. - Jak na to + styl
We promise we can make this more simple for any contractor or DIY'er!
IF you are going to paint the molding, then caulking can be a great friend to both amateurs as well as so-called "experts" to help fix a small mistake ...Been working w wood most of my life, and there are very few (if any) people that can honestly say they have never had to fill in a mistake! Woodworking is only as hard as you make it...I have worked with some serious kill-joys and I have worked with people who love teaching and make wood-working fun... If you are new to carpentry and want to attempt a wood project, do not listen to all those people that act like it is such a damn serious subject! Just go for it! You will learn much quicker when you enjoy what you are doing. Remember, NOTHING is permanent, and mistakes CAN be fixed!
I saw you make marks, bang on a few things and study things. I'd LOVE to know what you were doing and why. Next video it would be super helpful if you narrated what you are looking at and why you made the marks etc. It's obvious you are very good at what you and I'm thinking you made the video to help us all. Just a thought.
Very good points Bill. Coping is necessary if you are installing a molding that you will stain. If installing a paint grade molding then it just comes down to how much installation you have done in the past. If you are a first timer it is easier/quicker to miter the corners and then just fill any gaps with caulk. If I were paying someone to install my crown though I would expect them to cope the corners.
Thanks for leaving out an important detail like the angle to cut the crown at.
I have over 30 years experience installing all kinds of trim. I am not a big fan of snapping chalk lines. They are notorious for bleeding through a nice paint job. I prefer pencil marks a few feet apart. I have installed crown with and without coping depending on the situation, but I find that even for paint grade work, coping allows just a little more adjustment for out-of square corners.
I also noticed that you had a little trouble fitting that last short piece. I always install those short pieces first. Short stretches of wall don't allow you to twist the molding to make up a corner. Saving the longer runs until last allows you the ability to twist the molding a bit to get a corner to fit just right. One thing people forget is that not only are corners never square, but the ceiling is never all one flat plane which throws off joints in yet another direction.
this is fine for a new build that isn't a disaster of unlevelness, anything for uneven walls/ceilings?
if the walls are true 90 degrees you can angle both but most houses i do are remodels and a lot of settling occurs in which coping is more suitable.
Nice job Roy, as for the builder this is a paint package and will be caulked? In my experience coping which adds one more step of back cutting angle isnt going to keep material from shrinking and you'll still have a gap from side. Coping hides "out of square" issues although does help hide gap a bit. Even after coping there will be a gap after shrinking and settling. Coping is best used for oak or stain package but not a painted finish in my eyes. "A real carpenter"
beautiful job!
You just miter crown? No need to cope it? Thanks
what is the point of snapping a line or even drawing one if youre just going to hammer in the gaps and nail as you go along? isnt that line just pointless once its all nailed in?
Nice and clean job
You make it look easy. Well I guess it is with a 2nd person. Ive been trying to do it by myself.
what are you using to staple it with? Not normal staples surely.....?
good job sir
what is that magic gun that sticks it to the wall
Probably should explain what you are doing! Size nail gun, type of glue used on corners!etc
Shouldn't you cope an inside corner on a crown just like a base board?
What pointers??? It's just a video of Roy putting up crown molding. ..
no inside copes no pay..AMATUER
It hurts to see him hammer the crown. But I'm sure sure it came out beautifully.
lol.. You can hear Kiss "Beth" playing... Classic Rock is Carpenter music!
If the outside corner can be completed without any type of cope, why do you need the inside corner to have one, does the outside corner not shrink and inside corner shrink? I believe they are all the same materials. A cope is certainly not necessary and it makes it all the more complicated!
There is no possible way to cope an outside corner. The main 2 reasons for coping inside corners is that it allows for some adjustment of the joint and second, it allows you to keep the joint tight when nailing. When you nail a mitered inside corner, the nail will pull the pieces tighter to the wall and thus further apart at the mitered corner. Nailing an outside corner pulls the joint together.
22.5 is if the corner is at a 45 degree.
Nice joints! However the title is misleading. Little "how to" information was provided. It was more of a demonstration video.
@JDT - There are two basic methods for installation 1) Angle BOTH cuts. 2) Straight cut one and cope the other. Obviously the video used method 1 which can be more problematic but properly done will provide a superior joint.
no copes not enough glue
you cant see the sacrificial piece of wood in his hand?
Normally it's 45*. If it's to the out, then I believe it's 22.5.. I think...?
Yes bad didn't tell how to cut outside corners or measure or anything
helpfull? not........
half of a right angle = 45 deg...
Not wearing safety goggles while nailing. What else isn't being done right?
crybaby comments |how can the video watcher tell l the material moisture content .good video roy.
Also, calling this man lazy is absurd. At least for me my work life consists of getting up at 5 am and home at 6 pm after a long day of non stop fast paced work with hardly enough time to eat lunch. Bending, stooping, lifting, crawling, thinking, planning, writing contracts, putting in bids etc. Larger contracts with custom home builders (not private home owners) understand inside miters are time efficient and that time = money All one needs do is glue the miter caulk and paint and it's good.
they call that the "wizard hammer", the only way to have one is to inherit it from a master molder passed down from 1000 generations, to steal it from a master molder or to find a lost one. your best bet is finding one as stealing from a master molder will render you unable to ever use it (dead), and if you stand to inherit one you aren't talking to us, you're installing molding.
I was watching nuclear bombs and I got here
As a Builder I won't accept an inside miter! Why: Because in time , the first year the material will "shrink" and I hate callbacks.
This "crown molding install is not for a "custom or a real carpenter job."
I learned 40+ years ago cope and then sand and fit.
IT one thing to WATCH someone work; it's another to learn from someone who EXPLAINS what they are doing, as they are doing it. That's called the Demonstration-Performance method of teaching. This aint it.
Paint grade MDF man. Get with it. Medium Density Fiber Board Moulding. It doesn't shrink. If he were installing stain grade wood then yes, cope.
This guy will never install moulding in my house. If you don't cope inside corners, you ain't doin' it right. And, you're lazy.