DIY: Home made 12V Car Jumpstart battery pack from a Cordless Power tool battery
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- čas přidán 13. 09. 2024
- Can you start a car from a Cordless Power Tool battery pack? Let's find out.
Here's the video of how to make a balance charging cable for your battery pack: • DIY: How to Balance ch...
I think we were all in suspense waiting to see if the wrench feel in or if you would catch it in time... Great job!
I came to make the same comment... I was like come on good video, don't blow it with a wrench in the belt ! ! ! The whole world is yelling ... GET THE WRENCH ! ! !
Best part... At 11:40 you saved the wrench from falling into the engine! ESP power, you're Superman
Yea i was like, no the wrench no, no, noooo, fucking grab it, Fuck, no, lol THE BELTTTTTTTTT
I have the same expression as Zach
I want it to jump and grab the wrench myself ! from falling into the engine .
That's an alternator, not the starter motor, it is other end of engine by the trans!
Yes indeed. I put the annotation on the screen but you won't see it if you watch the video on a phone or tablet. What I'd been pointing at was the alternator. The starter motor is on the right side hidden underneath. But you got the idea.
vuaeco very interesting and good to know in an emergency..thanks, nice video well explained.
doesn't matter dumbass he did it what the fuck do u do except point out faults. You're a jackass
some have BAS alternators you stupid shit
my SUV only has a HIGH VOLTAGE 60,000 watts starter/alternator(two motors dual 60kw motors one for regeneration /reverse and start/ forward)
Does a 100 series cub cadet have a starter or a generator. Or does it have both.
Thanks for your idea
I made 4S6P 30amp max discharge 18650 Samsung cell. which I changed it up to 13v(16.8v-180Amp output-16amp input max)
Two recommendations:
1. Use 4 cells in series for 14.8 volts.
2. Use lithium polymer (li-po) batteries as they are able to dump maximum current, exactly what you want to jumpstart a car.
Great video and great explanation. I am going to use your data and buy small rechargable batteries to get 120Amp & 12 V to create my jump starter. For general knowledge car batteries mostly deliver 500A to 1000A so a portable starter with 120A is a good cost effective DIY ASSUMING IT WORKS as it did in this case. People like me who travel a lot and do not drive their car frequently can use a cheap Car Starter that they can recharge at home and never get stranded bcos of discharged battery.
I think the harbor freight jumper cables is not heavy duty enough and too long, otherwise you might have been able to crank it with just 6 batteries instead of 18. But if you use the smaller (shorter)cables like in your second demonstration you might get it to start with less batteries. All the extra batteries will allow you to crank multiple cars before recharging.
But I like the idea of using the xt60 (60 amps) connectors to start the car. I been trying the ec5 connectors (150 amps) but they are hard to solder. In your demonstration the xt60 work fine and didnt melt and they are easy to solder.
6 cells (3S2P) won't be able to start the car. With 2 in parallel, the discharge rate is only 40A and I don't think that's enough to run the starter motor. I might be able to get away with 12 cells (3S4P) if I have shorter and thicker cables. But the extra pack with 18 cells (3S6P) will give me more run time and more Amps so I can use it on a bigger car with bigger engines.
The XT60 is rated at 60A for safety only. It can handle much more than that. And in this case, twice as much at 120A. The run time is only a couple seconds so it's not gonna have enough time to heat up anything. I did feel the connector and cables after I started the car and they stayed cool. The reason why I chose the XT60 connector was because I wanted to charge the battery pack with my Turnigy Accucel-6 balance charger.
vuaeco last winter I started my car with 6 18650s (samsung 25R cells). I didnt start the car off the batteries though, I basically just paralleled the 3S 18650 battery pack to the car battery, then swapped out the cells once they were dead. About 45 minutes in it charged the car battery enough to start the car. Probably would've been about half that but I was impatient and kept trying to start the car basically eating up all the capacity I put into the battery. It's definitely not smart to try starting a car off of 18650s though (I.e. connecting 18650s to the battery in parallel and turning thr key) because even if each of those packs was rated at 40A max continuous discharge, the drain rating doesnt compound linearly, so 3 in parallel would maybe be like 80-90A max, which is far bellow the rating of most any car battery, and the peak current usage is when the car is trying to start and the electronic systems are turning on simultaneously and the cars ECU is performing checks of everything.
Ditto; the voltage drop on any standard set of cables is a very high % and renders and otherwise good experiment a failure. Indeed, it is difficult to start ANY vehicle with a single set of cables alone because of the resistence and voltage drop. A review of OHMS law would be helpful. I think he would be surprosed how much a very short relatively loss free connection would do for his experiment.
Some of those drill battery packs have a safety circuit built-in stopping you from taking two wires and powering something. Those that don't have a safety you wouldn't have to take apart. I have a 20v(measures 17v on multimeter) I've used to do the same thing a couple times it's an 8 cell pack. Also I made a jump pack from an old jump box that had 2 small lead acid 12v batteries was like 15lbs now with 12 18650 lithium batteries 6 per pack to replace the 2 12v that were in it it's like 5lbs. Don't know what a 6 cell 12v pack is called like the 3s n 4s stuff. Idk much about the circuit board that was in the jump pack but that worked much better than just using the 20v drill battery. Bought some battery things that allows me to remove each battery to charge it I know you would need a charging circuit to charge them evenly
you need a special type of Diode as a one-way valve for electricity, that will prevent the overcharge power to get back to the batteries.
Oh well but This diode must to be rated atleast to 150A. You can use a regullar Diode hooked up bunch of them in paralel or Use an old welding's machine diodes , two of them are there so you can hook them up in parallel . But you must to add another 1S / 6P battery pack to previous ones because this diode has a drop voltage around 0.6 - 0.75V so Multiply 4.2 times 4 you'll get up 16.8V minus 0.7 = 16.1V with no load so this ammount of voltage / power stored in the battery pack will crank a starter much much more easier even in cold winter.
What I don't understand is why he wouldn't just use a 4S setup. There would be no need for a diode, as the pack would tolerate up to 16.8. Nominal voltage of the pack would be right at the charging voltage of the alternator. Unless the concern is inrush current created by connecting a depleted lead acid battery to 16v source.
@@chrisstorm7704
While you do make a good point, the car battery has a 15v overcharge rating. Although granted, it's going to be empty when you plug it to the battery pack.
But there is also the starter motor and the other electronics in the car which probably wont like the extra 3 volts you are giving.
In other words, I would prefer risking the battery pack overcharging than risking the car's electronics.
@@DVDplayerz It's not uncommon for race cars to use 16v lead acid batteries. It's supposed to help their ignition systems. I can't really say whether there is any improvement from using a battery like this, but they run the same 12v starters and 12v fuel pumps when they go up to the 16v batteries. on the cars without an issue. Proper float charge on one of those batteries is 18.4 volts. 15 volts isn't really 3 volts over what's normal. Most cars are around 14.5 volts while cruising down the road.
It's also very common to use the original 6v starter when converting old tractors to 12v batteries. I have seen many of these in service for years without damage even though they are being run at double their intended voltage.
Many years ago the voltage regulator on my truck failed. I saw the gauge peg, so I left the truck running and dug out a multimeter to check the voltage at the battery. At Idle, the meter showed over 19 volts at the battery. I quickly shut the truck off after reading the meter. After replacing the regulator, the only thing that was damaged from the overvoltage was the headlight bulbs.
I was worried about having damaged the computer and other electronics, but after looking into it, found out the the computer and instrument cluster have independent voltage regulators to compensate to vehicle voltage fluctiations. It would speculate that most vehicles have the same regulation for their more sensitive electronics. I'm not trying to say that running at that voltage for a long time wouldn't have caused issues, but trying to relay my first hand experience with higher than normal voltages for short periods.
Between what I mentioned above, and the fact that a discharged lead acid battery will quickly pull the voltage of the 4s pack well below 14.5v. I can't see any danger to the vehicle at all, only potential danger to the li-ion cells and the cables connecting the two batteries.
Ya or add a resistor to charge the battery pack again
Thanks for another interesting video.
Given how much you like batteries, I'm surprised you did nothing to account for the fact that 18650 cells are not 4v. In fact you kept saying they were! I think the lack of voltage is probably why you had to use so many in parallel - you were basically fighting against the natural voltage drop under load by adding capacity, and I think you'd be better just giving the correct voltage.
(Particularly for a 'just a starter', which this obviously is - in no small part because there's no Schottkys so it would die or explode after being plugged into the car's stator/rectifier as a 'main' battery.)
That would probably work with a smaller engine with just the 2 packs. But awesome video. I always wondered how many it would take also. I've been settling for taking the long route slowly recharging my dead batts with a higher voltage variable battery supply of low discharge 18650's. It sucked having to charge my battery this morning in the freezing cold for like 30 minutes and the engine still didn't want to turn over (but was trying) before my ride came to get me lol. That sucker was all the way dead though.
You make great videos, and you have a good voice.
Good job.
Quite helpful! Thanks for making and posting this video!
I though about doing this, but the 18650 I have available are recycled from old laptop batteries, coupled with the fact that they are not new, they also were not rated for high current output, unlike your Cordless drill ones. So I though I could use some sort of current limiting, and instead of the pack being able to crank the shaft on it'n own, like you did, I could plug it in and wait 5-10 minutes for the pack to recharge the car battery enough so both of them combined could turn the motor, thoughts on how to do that? And if it's viable?
That's a great idea. I think that's possible. Laptop batteries don't have enough discharge current to crank the motor in a short amount of time. But let it charge the lead acid battery for a while and until enough charge, the lead acid battery might be able to crank the motor.
That was the alternator you pointed at. the starter is where the transmission bolts to the engine.
Yes, indeed. I put that on the annotation in the video but you can only see it if you watch it on a computer (won't see it on mobile device). My brain was too focused on the subject at the time. Luckily, the main focus of this video is not about the starter but about the battery pack itself.
doesn't matter dumbass he did it what the fuck do u do except point out faults. You're a jackass
Its a good thing those dangling wires did not caught on the rotating auxilliary fan. You can place a diode on the positive wire between the battery pack and the acid battery. So you dont have to worry about the power coming from your alternator to your homemade battery packs.
Use shorter cables, also don't put the negative clamp on the dead battery it should be grounded to the engine or chassis. I made a jump pack using just 6cells and works fine so long as it's connected correctly.
If wanting to use that pack for anything more than a one off experiment you should also use at least a cheap BMS to charge it back up.
What is a BMS? I’m new to all of this.
Hi awesome video iam wondering if you can send me a the details of the wiring for charging and out put thanks .
Add a relay for starting. The input signal wire to engage the starting relay can be tap off of the starter scynoilded. When you turn the key to start, the relay connects the battery to the starter, then the key is moved from the start to the run position and the relay is open or disconnected from your homemade battery. Try it.
I've jump started my truck by directly connecting an 18v 3ah Makita cordless drill battery, with no modifications. As you recommended, make sure u disconnect the battery the second the vehicle starts.
18v is dangerous for the car systems. Do Not connect more than 15
(Fully charged drill battery is more than 20v)
If you were to use a small bank of super capacitors as well I think you could do this with 3s 1p.
@@johnnadar9106
Capacitors that usually have a high capacity.
Exactly as expected
Niceeee, so if truck needs 400+ Amps to jump start, you need way more batteries?
suspense moment when the wrench almost fell. hahaha
Cool video. Somebody at the post office is pissed that you're using their Priority Mail box like that. ;-)
I'd like to convert an air compressor that uses 12v via alligator clips to run on the 18V cordless tool battery.
I need a 750 watt capacity.
A lot if you asked which batteries were used for this project?; Use a high drain, 20 amp continuous discharge battery such as the Samsung INR18650-25R or LG INR18650 HG2
Helpful as always sir. Aside from the alternator/starter mixup. Hehe
You have to let it sit and charge the car battery for about 10 minutes. I've jumped my car with a Milwaukee M12 1.3A/h
I have a normal Stanley jump starter
That's actually really cool! I have both M12 and DeWalt 20V batteries, but I was always sorta freaked out of damaging the tool batteries.
You know why it was not working after 3rd attempted cause your losing a lot of amps w that thin jumper cables ( beside lets assume your full voltage well balance on the lions well your max output voltage regardless of amperage is 12.3 ( you verly charging that huge 1000amp acid battery in the car ) that juice is just tickling . Your best in upraising voltage 4s and turn on headlights for electronic protection I have seen and this turns cars on 4s 2p this way your really charging and upraising voltage which is needed w a dead battery . Well I have repair and modify jumper cables cause man some have way too much rubber and so little copper wire that not much juice is going to charge battery . That why it takes a while even when transferring power from car to car :) but lipo battery chemistry is better at delivering heavy amp draws but I’ll go for a good brand cause some don’t make good loops for car jumpers they just market things and end up not working after a 6month period
I might be seeing your video later lol but congrats many of us wouldn’t even attempt but we all learn from eachother have you heard of super capacitors I want to do a project to see if it really starts a car but to see all the cons and benefits
Good ideas
Hey great video. thanks for testing this. ive always wondered this. I am curious where you got the information that each 18650 is capable of delivering 20 amps of current. I thought an 18650's current limit was around 2 amps...
Also, to avoid 14v going back into the battery; if you were using it as a permanent battery, couldnt you use some sort of diode to allow current out of the battery but drastically reduce current from going the opposite direction? wired into 3 (1 for each parallel pack) of those charge controller chips found on ebay (parallel wiring), then they would stop charging at 4.2v....
correct me if im wrong, still learning.
The 18650 specs come from the manufacturer. There's a model number imprinted on the cell and you just have to google it. Not all 18650's are the same. Those come from laptops only have 2A discharge rate vs. those from a power tool which has 10 times as much discharge rate. The reason why I don't want to put a diode in it is because I need to charge this pack when it's empty. Plus, I want to use it for other purposes and putting a diode on it would reduce its practicality.
Thanks for that info. 20A is quite significant.
Miles Papineau there are some that are capable of even more. My 18650 of choice is the Samsung 25R - rated at 25A continuous and 100A pulse for 1 second as per the datasheet. Still though, a 3S 6P isn't enough current to safely start a car. You'd still be overdrawing the batteries which can cause immediate safety concerns or issues down the line. The last thing you want is to have your bed room fill with chemicals randonly while you're watching TV after your battery explodes on the charger.
Sony VTC5A, can handle 100A burst discharge under 6.7 seconds, according to datasheet.
60 Amps for under 26 seconds.
At about 4:50, I think it would have been successful if you would have either; 1) let the pack charge the car battery for about a minute before cranking, or, 2) bypassed the car battery by removing a cable from car battery and connecting the pack lead to disconnected cable. ( then after starting QUICKLY disconnect pack from car to avoid over-amping the pack, then reconnect car batt to car cable).
Also, I believe the issue with leaving the pack connected after starting is not the higher (14.5v) alternator VOLTAGE output but, rather, the higher AMPERAGE output of the alternator compared to what the pack is able to handle coming in to it?
Correct me if I'm wrong.
Nice video though, thanks and God Bless!
PS how do you recharge the pack?
Lol battery pack from hell. Lol
Can you put a fuse on the battery pack to prevent the alternator from over charging it?
Fuses protect from shorts. Diodes stop current flow in one direction.
Good video. Do the test with 4S1P, 4S2P and 5S1P, 5S2P.
There are videos with battery of 18V drill of 5S1P and 5S2P and it worked.
Good video! I always enjoy your stuff.
excellent idea...
I been jump starting off a makita 3amp 18volts battery just by making up a lead connected to two copper posts that clip into the battery for 6 years now works better than a jump.pack I bought for £50.
And wasn't that the alternator you pointed too?.
great video👍..is there any diagram or anything i can read for guide if i want to make this...thanks
You should make a 16 Volt system, that way you don't need to disconnect it. :)
Car system is only 14.5V max when the engine is running. When the engine is off, it's only around 12V. A 4S Li-ion pack is almost 17V (16.8 to be exact) and that might be too much and can fry your car sensitive electronics.
I can see your point, but the alternator will charge the 4s battery to 14.6v and then the voltage regulator will stop charging. So your 4s pack will charge to about 60-70%, and never get to full charge. So It wont damage any systems and the pack would work better than a lead acid with the lithium pack at 70% I have been wanting to test it. I want to build a case lined with a couple of lithium charge bags in-case of a problem. I'm thinking a 4S8P pack.
Timothy Luzier do you want make jump starter contact me we at same project
Contact me by whatsapp 00358468911484
@@vuaeco Or a diode
or a diode
Love the homemade car battery clamp, it's so ghetto
How to use lithium ion batteries to start the ride , also maybe adding a diode would keep the alternator from charging them.
Oh great start up but you did not put a series rectifier diode to prevent feedback voltage when battery charging or full put Diode on positive terminal Anode then Cathode connect to battery positive terminal
Super sandwich from hell xDDDDD
Remove all the jumper cables and hook up wires to battery connectors. 2 packs will do it
The thing you pointed to saying "starter" uhh that's the alternator
4s 6p is much safer and can be used long term if need.
use BMS then to protect the battery from over charged
Very good video vaueco! Good explaned. Thanks a lot.
I have a electric scooter. 2000 Watts battery Lead acid, 48 Volts, with 3000 Watt motor by about 40 Ahs.
I want to make Lion battery.
It's necessary to get cells with 20Ahs high disharge current or is normal PC battery cells OK ? Thanks.
Consider to use from Lidl the Parktool 4Ah power tool battery. Use three in series and as many as you like in parallel. They are high discharge cells like the Samsung 20S
Ok sir thanks a lot for ur reply
stand .. can i mix laptop bat. and powertool bat. in the same pack or. is there a problem with the different discharge rates ? thanks much, great videos .
You can use them in parallel but you need a BMS to prevent damaging to the battery pack. BMS is some type of Electronic device that can sense the flowing current and voltage to the battery and then between every single series connection are different voltage potentials and these potentials must be controlled with BMS but if it's not, simply the battery with smallest capacity will be charged much quickly and than its voltage will be much much much higher than 4.25V MAX!! And woala , the series of problem began. That's why it's better to use BMS instead of charge it with direct voltage without nothing.. You can hook different capacities in paralel so don't worry but please , use a BMS to prevent unexpected behaviours . And yes , you can draw unlimited current directly from the battery pack but charge it up with BMS
I know this is a hack 12v quick jump start pack, but One 20v battery pack won't quick jump but will jump the car leaving it plugged to the car battery for couple of minutes to charge it, then it will start.
You could of started that car with one of the batteries you should have left it 5s so that it would charge your lead acid battery fast instead of actually trying to make it the same voltage because when those packs are dead they are right around 15v it's perfect to fully charge a car battery no mods needed
Can a 4s pack work for this just keep the voltage at 14.5v and how much amps does the car alternator charge at?
You dont need to care about right voltage , my dad sent 26V to a battery and everything survived but yes you can use a 4S / 4P or 5P to encrease the better starter cranking. You can even use 4S 6P to start up the car in cold winter . 16.8V is good but i recommend to unplug the battery first than you can crank the motor with this battery pack connected properly to the cables from the broken or super discharged lead acid battery
5 years ago did 4s10p and couldn't start opel zafira 1.8 petrol, mazda 2.2 diesel didn't even cracked.. Just saying
you prob cant jumpstart in other situations with that, colder weather, more heavy (diesel) car ... i think you just got lucky because you already managed to turn the engine in the first try what makes the oil tinner and easyer to start. Well at least thats my thought. For practical use the pack should be much more heavy and the cables big and very short.
I can. You have to keep in mind that most jumpstart Li-ion battery packs in the market would require you to hook it up to your lead acid car battery. They are actually just a booster. Most (if not all) of them would not be able to start a car all by themselves without having to hook up parallel to your car battery. If you think about it, it makes sense because it's your car battery and there's no point to remove your car lead acid battery in order to jumpstart it. This pack is able to start the car all by itself. And that shows how much more powerful it is if you also hook it up parallel to a car battery which is almost the case in practical use. I tested it without the help of a car battery just to show how powerful it was. But I certainly would never need to remove my car lead acid battery before I jumpstart my car.
I know this video is a little old but, I have a kobalt 80v 5ah battery laying around I haven’t cracked it open but I’d say it has about 60 18650 batteries in it. Could I do anything jump box wise with it? I mean it’s a $300 battery but it’s not doing me any good, any mod you would recommend?
youre a badass thank you for this video
Those nickel strips are way too weak for such hight current, would need to to use more strips in paralel, that would reduce resistance
will 4s7p 10A discharge batteries jumpstart ??
it did
You should be using a 4s pack because of voltage drop! A 4s 1p would work!
You needed 4s 3p in the first try. 3 batteries in series will not give you 12.6/12.8v to crank the car.
interesting project
why it didnt work first time with one pack. 1 cables too long. 2 Didnt wait 15-20mins for the battery to charge while plugged into the pack.
I hate to tell you. That's not 20 amps, it's 2.0 amps. When you split each pack into parallel packs it becomes 12v 4a. Times three is 12a.
You're talking about Amp Hours, mate, not Amp. They are not the same thing. They are as different as night and day.
@@vuaeco My bad. I remember now that many LiFePO4 batteries can do 10 or even 20c for short periods. Why only 3s, though? 4s gives you better range for 12v and the car can handle 14-15v no problem.
How did you solder the battery tabs?
I have a big 12 volt starter motor (points to alternator)
Is that all you learned from the whole video?
you could have added diod to the posetive line and you won't need that much of a batteries
The. Proper test would be to remove the lead acid battery then see if your diy battery will turn the over engine.I would think this diy battery will not be able to supply enough current, also the supply leads are too thin and too long. This would be lucky to start a motorcycle
XT60 connectors are rated for 60 amps
yes, but thats not 60 amps in peak, it can provide at least 120 amps for a few seconds... but i would use xt90.
Thank You, its good video. I just wanted to know, how many 18650 cells i need to start an engine. I am thinking to remove lead battery from my track car and use litium. Also I would remove an alternator. With lead battery and alternator removed, would lighten the car for about 20kg and somewhat ease a load on engine.
lol, the time you do a legit 'hack' and you don't say it in the title ;)
nice work mate.
Did you try adding a super capacitor?
It should be 4S NOT 3S you do 3.7v x 4= 14.8 volt the 18650 have 4.2v max.... PLUS your car battery is 13.7v to 14.3v
why it didnt work first time with one pack. 1 cables too long.
bro.... im 12 and i know that thats not a motor, its an alternator it charges the batery. the starter in located more to middle of engine and down lower
Sounds like a smart kid. Keep it up.
just make a 4s pack then you save
and don't charge it above 14,4v
what would happen if you used a diode?
Must handle hundrets of amps 400/1000A (welder or altenator)
6c would done it with 12" cables
Ok, cold car engine vs torque tool...
Cold car: current draw 600amp - Torque tool current draw 5 amp
This shit is dangerous...
OMG I know others have already said this but my man if you don’t know the difference from an alternator to a starter then maybe you should put down the battery pack and step away from your engine bay because your sure to damage something and a good chance that will be yourself. Lmfao!
I may not know what they are but I tear them down and fix them. czcams.com/video/tOW0C3w28jc/video.html
I think it will be cheaper if you go by on jump pack
A comparative jump pack about the same price ($60) is usually only 3S1P. This pack is 3S6P so it's 6 times the capacity of the same jump pack. Not only can I use my pack for jump starting my car, I can also use it for any 12V devices including running a 12V DC to 110V AC inverter.
the jump pack of $60 is 3S1P lithium polymer battery
Remember thats a healthy dead battery
nice idea
I jumped mine with one 2amp battery pack like dem
Any cordless powertool can start a car as long as is 12 volt or more , is not that complicated....
First of all, the starter requires a large amount of current at least 100 Amps or more. A regular 1S power tool only has about 20A discharge current max. So no, not any battery can start a car. In fact, there's absolutely no regular power tool battery that can start a car. Second, your car only run up to 14.4V. And that's when the alternator is running and charging up the battery. Usually at rest, it's only 12.7V max. If you use a battery more than 14.4V say 24V, 48V, or 56V, you're gonna fry all of the electronic components in your car including your ECU.
On newer garbage (cars) even a cattle prong will fry the electronics
The end result is a battery pack nearly as big as the car battery,,,lol
Че он говорит? На русском языке есть перевод?
Your set up put out 8 amps and you needed inrush for 1 mins. 30 amps to start a car.
It's a 6P (6 in parallel) battery pack. Each cell is capable of putting out 20A continuous (more for inrush). So a 6P pack will put out at least 120A, not 8A. And to start a compact car like the one in the video, you need at least 80A to 100A.
Nice Supersize lol
Each cell may be capable of 20ah but that's only for each cell which are only 3.7 volts each so you much figure out the overage peak amerage per hour peak output of your entire battery pack your using , what one cell makes alone is irrelevant except for helping you figure out the total output of the entire pack. Your playing with fire in this video bro and did you seriously try to start your car with a 24volt battery pack or did you run some voltage regulator of sorts to keep the voltage no higher than 13.5V while cranking. No less than 12.3-12.5 on most modern cars
That's not 24V, mate. Did you even watch the video?
Hi can I use 18650 3.7v 30amps battery??why's is the model of your battery?
You can. That should work. THe battery I used was the Kobalt 2Ah 24V power tool battery. You can look it up on Lowe's website.
Thanks sir
But it is 2500ah yours is 2ah
It's not. It's 2Ah. Lowe's does not have anything 2.5Ah at 24V, at least in the USA. Where are you from?
Mauritius.sorry it 3000mah
Clean your battery terminals first please!
He thinks the alternator is the starter
It is. I just fixed one in this video: czcams.com/video/tOW0C3w28jc/video.html
Hi friend can u send to me the schematic diagram pls
You know nothing about cars.That is not the starter motor , That is an alternator.
Wow! You're a genius.
Why bother destroying a perfectly good $40-$80 lithium cordless tool battery pack when you can buy a pocket sized jump box that also has USB outputs and a flashlight for $60-80 depending on where you buy it from and what brand. Hell if you want super cheap and don't care about a larger battery jump box you can get the classic old school big ones for like $40-50 on sale at harbor freight and Walmart nowadays so why bother doing this nonsense , you could have done the experienent on paper with the proper math to reach the same conclusion on paper without wasting perfectly good expensive battery packs , your kind of a fool honestly bro, penny wise dollar foolish. And you should have unplugged that battery pack immediately upon firing up the car cause the risk of frying those cells or starting a fire is very high even with the alternator lightly charging the pack for less than a minute , it should be disconnected within 10 seconds if your jumping cars with a unit like this and you should also have a proper inline fuse inline in the positive jumper cable along with a one way diode or proper size, but at least an online fuse bro common that's just common fuckin sense, you Intentionally trying to fry the cells in your now destroyed tool battery pack or start a 🔥? Cause lithium fires can get pretty nasty I don't think you'd enjoy the experience. BTW now that you've ruined your battery pack and altered it's internal wiring configuration how do you plan to recharge the dells in the pack properly and safely ?
those battery packs are 27 a piece
lol remove the car battery, you can change the max voltage of your alternator by adapting the voltage regulator, , this voltage is verry rough , not smooth like a charger, so has to be flatned. the lead battery also works like a buffer of changes in demands of curent. You can plase the
smal iliobat near the startermotor and use thick cables.
Hello Vuaeco
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That would be cool for your bike rather than a lead acid battery.
BTW that's not your starter that's your alternator bro, you shouldn't be making diy projects this dangerous if you can't even tell a starter from an alternator which btw look nothing alike