The Centurion is Sick. Help!
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- čas přidán 11. 09. 2024
- I was going to work on the trike in this video, but the Centurion has developed a problem. I have been trying to diagnose it but needed help figuring it out. I tried all the usual things to try and make it run, and it still isn't right. I think maybe it might be bad fuel, but I'm not sure of that.
- Krátké a kreslené filmy
I'm not a mechanic Luke, but I've seen cars with a partially or totally plugged catalytic converters act like that. They run fairly well until the back pressure builds up enough to cause problems.
Thank you. That's a good suggestion, Makes sense at idle it wouldn't have the power to blow through it.
Hey Cuz, i would have no idea what is wrong with your vehicle. I have a 27 yo C1500 that is pretty easy to work on and uts all i want as a challenge. Seems like you have a great grasp on how to diagnose what is going on and im sure you will get it fixed. Just dropping in to see what your up to and once again enjoyed seeing you. Everytime i watch your videos i see Uncle Bill standing beside you with a proud smile on his face......thanks for the smiles it gives me. Love ya Cuz.
Yeah, Dad probably would have had it fixed in 10 minutes. I found the problem though, was just a couple of wires.
Check the engine coolant temperature sensor, sometimes on General Motors motors. There are two engine temperature sensors, one for the gauge and one for the compute 14:41 r. Sample the gasoline. If EGR tube immediately begins to get hot it is opening to soon.
Crank sensor cam
Thank you. I'll check them.
Hoping you can get this problem sorted on your Centurion. 👍🏻
Got it figured out! Video soon showing what it was.
I wish i had some advice and knowledge to share, but i don't. The closest i had was an '87 Taurus in which the ignition module would overheat on hot days - especially when i was driving on an Interstate - and the thing would sputter and die like that. My problem, though, was just a common problem to those Tauruses that had the ignition module mounted - stupidly - right on top of the engine. When it cooled back down, all would be fine. Two dealers told me there was nothing they could do about it; it was just a bad design failure by Ford. I could minimize it by turning off the AC and turning on the heater full blast, which i did a couple of times so i could get home ok, but it was kinda the opposite of what i wanted to do on a 104 degree day, which i had to do one time!
I hope others here can help you out.
Thank you. the ignition module has been suggested by others too. It could be, i had my mind focused on fuel, so It hadn't occurred to me. I have one to switch out to try.
Good luck!
Isn't there a way to do plug in diagnostics on it? I don't know what it costs for one of those devices to plug in, but if it's practical it might tell you what the problem is.
@dsteele27 yes. I connected my phone to it and it didn't have any codes besides the random misfire code. I found the problem and fixed it. I'll have an update video soon.
Looking forward to watching it.
Ignition control module located under the plenum. I am just a minute into the video... LoL
I dont know what engine I was thinking of. Its under your coil packs if I recall correctly. 6 minutes in the video and I am sticking behind your ignition control module going out. I have heard that sputter many times and it's never identical but like history, although it doesn't repeat, it rhymes. If that makes sense.
The problem is in ignition. Not fuel, not vacuum. Its in the ignition. I can tell the difference in how it sounds.
Thank you. I have an extra ignition module to switch out and try. I was focused on fuel because of the fuel trims, should have checked ignition too.
@@lukeFugate of course I could be wrong but I have worked on a lot of cars in my time. I never had any of the fancy tools for diagnostics, just my earballs. When the chips start to fail in those modules they get microfractures in the silicone and when the engine heats up the components expand and fail. In many cases when it cools back off and that chips can complete their circuit it'll run fine again until it heats back up. Ignition coils can do the same thing. That module is on a metal plate under the plenum right? Its been quite a while since I have worked on one but it seems like I had to pull the plenum to replace the one on the gen 3 3.1 I had. If I am not mistaken you have a gen 2. I am not a GM guy but sometimes you cant be choosy when buying used cars so I have owned plenty of General Maintenance vehicles over the years.
Check mass air flow sensor could be dirty thats a common issue. Its in the air induction tube between the throttle body and the air cleaner, spray with brake clean. Hope that helps.
Thank you I will clean it. The wires looked good, but could have something on them I cant see.
Had the same issue with my KIA Sedona. Ended up being the Temp Sending unit/Sensor. It tells the computer not to fire the coils because it falsely reads that the engine is too hot or cold to prevent damage! Yup... sounds crazy, but it was just a $10 part off ebay.
Makes sense. Thank you.
Scan the codes if possible, check plugs and especially ground wires.
Thank you. I ended up finding the problem. It was a wire shorting with another one in the O2 sensor harness.
fuel filter..
I think I have it fixed now. I'll post a video explaining it if it is really fixed.