How to Install the Borgeson Steering Shaft | 1995 Ford F150
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- čas přidán 24. 08. 2021
- In this video, I will show you how to Install the Borgeson steering shaft upgrade. The Borgeson steering shaft improves your steering by eliminating the old factory rag joint and replacing it with a universal joint. The rag joint Is made of rubber and breakdowns after a while. This makes the steering feel loose and imprecise. Link for the Borgeson Steering Shaft below
amzn.to/3nkoRAR
These Borgeson steering shafts are available for many makes and models of vehicles but they definitely make them for F150, F250, F350, and Bronco 1980-1996 (1997 F250)
#borgesonsteeringshaft #bronco #obsford
The truck In this video Is a 1995 Ford F-150 single cab with the 5.0.
#obsford #fordf150 #diy
⏰ Time Stamps:
0:00 Intro
Welcome to The Minute Masters CZcams Channel where I (Stevie) show you how to repair and upgrade all Ford F series trucks and Broncos from 1980-1997. So hit that subscribe button and be ready to resurrect your baby!🤙
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The project is my 1995 Ford F150 XL 2wd 8 foot bed.
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There should be a special place in Heaven for people like you. You have done so much for DIY'ers by taking the mystery out of repairs.
Thanks man!🤙 I appreciate it. I’m glad I can help you out!
just put one in my 89 F150.. best thing ever.. cost a bit to ship to australia, but well worth the wait and cost
I never knew there was an upgrade for the steering shaft. Thanks for sharing man, but now I have to go spend more money. Your channel is going to make me go broke lol. Great work! 👍
I didn’t know either but found out a few years ago. It’s definitely a pricier mod but most hood mods are. No problem man!🤙 I’m happy to help ya out. My truck is my DD. I drive it every day. So I have tons of excuses to improve her. Lol
@@TheMinuteMasters that's the best part about these OBS Fords. A few parts here and there, but the engine and tranny will keep on keepin on. My favorite trucks of all time by far.
@@TrickShiftGarage You got that right! 238,886 miles on my truck including engine!🤙 Mine too! The GMCs and Chevys of similar year aren’t great looking at all.
This is going to take all the mystery out of driving. I have pretty much driven on faith that whoever or whatever is under the hood countering my steering is ultimately going to cooperate before we both crash. Now, it'll apparently be all me. ;)
Oh it definitely does take the mystery out of steering! Lol I can hold the steering wheel straight now.
@@TheMinuteMasters I STILL say this obsession with straight is overrated.
@@borderlineiq Hahahaha!😂😂
Thank you for this! I just got my 96 F-150 regular cab. My uncle gifted it to me. I'm a novice but so excited to start working on it. The play in the steering wheel was really bothering me. This will be one of the first things i do.
Nice! 🤙 That’s quite the gift! I wish I had an uncle like that.
Oh you will love the new steering shaft then. Look into replacing your steering gear box.
You should also make sure your tie rod ends and ball joints are good.
Man, I wish I had learned of this sooner. Great video once again! Thank you sir
Thanks Curtis🤙
after watching several videos on your front end rebuild. This will be the final step in my 1995 2WD F250 with a 6600 GVW. It's basically a 150 with the bare minimum to bump into the 3/4 ton category. Between the radius arm bushings, and ball joints. I feel like i owe you money for these videos....Thanks, and please continue to make more.
Nice man!🤙 I’m glad your f250 is coming together! These trucks ride and handle so much better with new bushings and ball joints, not to mention new shocks and springs.
Hahaha! I really appreciate it!
Well, I won’t say no to a donation. With that said, here’s my Venmo👇
venmo.com/code?user_id=2220690509922304990&created=1630285843.398859&printed=1
@@TheMinuteMasters I'll throw you enough cash for a case of beer! I put ranco shocks on already. But they aren't so much here in Detroit with my 33x12.5' and the pot holes. I might try some Bilstein or Rough Country next.
@@iamgriff Sounds good to me!🤙
Dude! I used to live on Pennsylvania and I cracked the frame of my truck on a pothole. I’d go with Bilsteins if they are in the budget. They are the best I’ve owned. Otherwise an extended radius arm setup seems like the ticket when it comes to smoothing out the ride on these trucks.
Thanks for the video sir 🙏 have mine ready to go with new red head steering and rebuilt column... cant wait to feel the new ride.
No problem man!🤙 Nice! You’re mind is going to be blown! Replacing the steering gear box and steering shaft improved my steering the most.
How did it turn out?
Just put mine in, feels way better! I ended up cutting some off of the other side (the solid side)
Just put my new column in! It is night and day. Highly recommend doing this!
Hell yeah!! It’s the best!
Awesome video. I never even though of making this switch, but I'm definitely doing it now!!
Thanks man!🤙 It’s a sweet upgrade!
Steevie from the Minute Masters, and those classic Hollywood movie star good looks!!! Hey buddy! Great video as ALWAYS! Good to see you and catch up on your antics. That's gonna be a future mod for me and the fleet for sure. You know I spied your new Milwaukee M12 Rover! Got two of those bad boys when they first came out and love those things. Now did I spy a baby stroller wheel in the garage? Well, you know I love that purple F-150 and even LOVED the factory color under the dash on the firewall. So satisfying to see. Love how you keep improving that truck. Once again you've inspired me and I'll be popping the hood of at least one of the fleet today to peek around and see what's next. Thanks buddy, you know you're my all time favourite channels to watch and always appreciate your natural style, efforts, commitment and dedication to the F-150 and Milwaukee tools! Two of my addictions and passions.
Patrick!! Good to hear from you! Thank you, I appreciate it!
Oh you will love. Personally, steering and suspension mods are my favorite because they are generally cheap and you can feel the difference while commuting.
You bet! I love my M12 Rover. Great light output and the magnet is beefy.
Yes, that’s the baby stroller for my daughter Fiona. She actually watched me film the beginning sequence of this video. I’m hoping the auto mechanics will rub off on her. 😁
As always Patrick, I appreciate your comments! Have fun upgrading the fleet! You’ll have a blast!🤙
Another great video, thank you
Thank man! 🤙 I appreciate it!
This has to be about the only part I haven't replaced or rebuilt on my '96 F150 shortbox 4X4 which I've owned since new. The extra length must be for trucks with a body lift. A friend had a multi inch body lift in his rig and the steering shaft was only engaged about a quarter inch or so. Very dangerous and it was just by chance we discovered it. Great video and thanks for posting!
Yup, you definitely want this for a body lift.
Thanks man!🤙 You’re welcome!
Hello my friend Stivie I'm glad you're back
Hi Ricardo! Good hearing from you! Oh I’ll be back for a while.🤙
GREAT VIDEO, THANKS!! IM GONNA ORDER ONE NOW!!!
Thanks man!🤙 I appreciate it! Nice!
Terrific video. I have to get one!
Thanks man!🤙 I appreciate it!
I need to do this upgrade lol thanks man.
It’s a great upgrade! I love the way my truck steers now. No problem Chris!🤙
Very helpful
Thanks man!🤙
Great how 2! Glad i found your channel, i have a 94 f150 i6, been keeping it running for 20 yrs, although she's currently hurting. Did i see a KC sticker!? I also am from KC. Merriam, specifically. Looking forward to digging through your videos. Thanks!
Thanks man!🤙 I appreciate it! Nice! That’s a good year. That’s a KC HiLites off-road stick. I have driven my truck in KCMO and KCK many times. I’m in Des Moines now.
Sounds good man! Enjoy!
I don't know how bad your vibrations are but if you ever get tired of feeling them, borgeson has quality replacement rag joints that will actually damper the vibrations. I have a d44 sas 92 f150 so I was feeling a ton of vibs, so after contacting borgeson and ordering a new rag joint, my steering is tight and as smooth as butter now, I couldn't stop laughing after the install because the steering was so smooth, I never felt it that smooth before.
I don’t mind it so far and I honestly don’t think it’s that bad. But that’s good to know they make a new replacement rag joint. Thanks for the info man🤙
Did you replace the steering shaft and then added the rag joint?
@@guillermogarcia2862 I already had the borgeson shaft in my 92, it was years later when I added the rag joint, I don't regret it.
Thank you for posting this.
Thanks for this! Over the past 20,000 miles on my '95, I've replaced the steering box, everything past the steering box, bearings, shocks/coils/towers, and the radius arm and axle pivot bushings, yet on the freeway on new tires (stock size) it's still as vague as the clues in old NES games. On visual inspection the rag joint still looks tight, but then, that's just sitting in the driveway, and after watching this I wonder just how much flex there really is in it and the joints under load after 216,000 miles.
Again, thank you for this. I was about to start ripping hair out trying to get my beast to feel confident enough for a long drive again!
No problem Al!🤙 I’ve done all the same work and I always felt like I wasn’t there yet. The steering on these trucks will never be as good as newer rack and pinion setups, but you can definitely get it close enough.
I think under casual inspection the rag joints do feel tight. I think under load (larger than stock tires) there’s too much give. I love the wait my truck steers now. The only benefit to a rag joint is you felt less of the road through the steering wheel. With the solid u-joint on the Borgeson, you get a little my road feel. I don’t mind it.
You are most welcome! I’m glad I can save your hair! Lol
I replaced every part on my front end of my 1995 F250. I still had the same issue. As it turns out , my truck was low on steering fluid. No one has mentioned that here. But it's worth looking into. I upgraded to FoMoCo brand sythentic steering fluid. It made a huge difference.
@@iamgriff Yup, you definitely want to make sure the fluid level correct.
I haven’t changed my steering shaft yet I’ve been using it as my antitheft device the only thing that sucks is nobody can borrow my truck if they need it because I’m the only one who knows how to drive it
😂😂 This is so true! Even my wife doesn’t like driving my truck. Granted, she hasn’t driven it since I’ve added a bunch of these upgrades.
Freaking awesome man! I wonder if besides having to cut it, this same shaft would be a bolt-on fit for a 1995 Bronco
Thanks man!🤙 Honestly, it probably is the same shaft for a Bronco. It doesn’t hurt to check. I know there is definitely a Borgeson steering shaft for a bronco.
It should. Mine was for an F150, but, fit in my 93 bronco.
Great video. However when you cut the new shaft instead of cutting it and redrilling the holes. Could you pull the shaft in two pc and cut the other end?
Thanks Johnny!🤙 I would have to look at it again but I think that could work.
I was following you in a previous video and you replaced your front sway bar and you had mentioned that you noticed improved steering. Which would you say helped your steering more the Front Hellwig sway bar or Borgeson steering shaft upgrade? TIA.
So, a front sway bar helped a lot on turns and managing body roll on the highway. I said it improved steering as just a general comment. The Borgeson steering shelf improves actual steering by eliminating the slip from the rag joint. Basically, the sway bar and Borgeson steering shaft accomplish two different areas of steering. I’d recommend the steering shaft first. Then you can look at sway bars. I wish had started with the rear sway bar though.
Will replacing with non oem mechanical components devalue the truck down the road? Thinking about upgrading some stuff on mine that needs done before they go out. Wanna keep it maintained just hit 125k on her! Love your videos you’ve learnt me many things thus far I really appreciate this channel.
If you are specifically referencing to replacing a drive shaft with an aftermarket one, I don’t think that will devalue your truck. What year, model, engine, and drive train is it?
@@TheMinuteMasters Yeah you’re right can’t help but replace these types of things. I’ve got a f150 96’ XL regular cab, short bed, 4x4, with a 302 or 5.0.
@@deeznuts1358 Very nice! That’s a fun truck to have!
Very cool! How does the vibration you feel compare to before the replacement?
So there’s definitely a little bit more vibration through the steering wheel but I honestly don’t mind it I prefer having precise steering over the was a vibrating. The vibration also doesn’t feel like loose parts either.
@@TheMinuteMasters Very good, thanks!
@@johnrobertsguitar You’re welcome John!🤙
Late to the party, but, on the dampener on the new shaft. There isn't a little tiny set screw on it? Instead of hammering it. Loosen the set screw? Maybe the new shafts are updated, but, I installed this shaft years ago in my 93 Bronco and that shaft had a set screw. Loosen it. Dampener slides up and down.
I can’t quite remember. I do recall a set screw at both ends to hold it in place.
The old shaft either had a set screw or a through bolt.
Hey I had a question. On my 94 f150 I have a rattle coming from the front end on rough roads it sounds like when you shaking a spray paint can any ideals on what it might be . My truck from Texas all its life so no rust the only thing in the front end I haven’t replace is the ball joints radius arm bushing and axel pivot bushings
So those bushings you haven’t replaced could cause a rattle.I would definitely look at them.
Ah now I know why my Fords steering is super loose and drifty
You bet!🤙 That rag joint has some extra give to it.
Your videos are excellent. My OBS Bronco has a backwards steering wheel and is very uncomfortable to drive. Watching your video, I think that if I disengage the steering column under the hood, could I correct it that way? thanks
Like the steering wheel is upside down when you are driving straight?
Yes, you can as long as the steering shaft will fit back on the splines that way. Otherwise, you can removed the actual steering wheel and put it back on the correct orientation.
What my cruise control or steering wheel removal video for how to do that.
Thanks brother. That is exactly my problem. I am encouraged to review those videos to correct the position of the steering wheel. 😂 🛻
@@doctorantivirus. You’re welcome Doc!🤙
Hey Minute Master: do you have any road feedback since the rag joint is removed?
Hi Luke! I have a little road feed back but I don’t think it’s annoying. Supposedly Borgeson makes a replacement rag joint too but I haven’t looked.
Good video but you should have stressed not to move the steering wheel while it’s apart and destroying the clock spring.
Silly me. That can be another video.
Good point! I never touch a steering wheel when it’s unhooked from the steering shaft, but other may not know that.
Just run your seatbelt through it and you should be just fine.
On my stock steering shaft I noticed there was fluid on it, could it just be power steering fluid from my pump or does the shaft contain any fluid at all ?
That’s probably from the pump. The steering shaft is just metal, rubber, and plastic.
@1:50 whats the box to the right that has the foam flaps that are unfolding? It is below and right of the yellow thing in the picture.
Good question. I have no idea. I haven’t explored under the dash much.
G'day Steve, could you please confirm the part number you used? The link in the description is apparently for a GM pn937, whereas on Borgeson's website the 92-96 F-150 is pn981.
Cheers
Hey man! I just updated the link. It was a GM shaft. It should be a Ford shaft now. 000981 is the correct part number.🤙
Cheers mate 👍🏼
@@Stoney429b You’re welcome!🤙
Hey new to the channel is that a seat cover for your bench seat or a custom one I am looking at getting a custom one soon
Welcome man!🤙 I had that reupholstered by a shop. It’s definitely worth going the custom route.
Hi steve i have a leaking steering shaft coupler u joint can i replace just the u joint or do i have to replace the whole coupler . Its the one inside the truck .
Hi Calvin!
I’m not sure if those can leak but I don’t think you can replace just the coupler. You may have to buy a whole new steering shaft. The OEM steering shaft I’m told I’m more expensive than the Borgeson upgrade.
Odd question if you have an answer! I have a 93 bronco and the splines on the new steering gear box i have installed, do not match the splines inside the stock joint of my steering shaft. I cant return the steering box and cant use the old one. Are the ends of the shaft connecting to the steering wheel univarsal sizes for ford?
That’s a tough one. I know there is a slot milled into the side of the spline coming out of the steering box. You typically have to line up with one that’s in the steering shaft.
I installed one, a Red Head box, and all new steering arms and ball joints. I do notice an occasional clunk in the wheel, like it is now connected via metal instead of a bunch of rubber.
After watching this video, I’m pretty sure my installed did not cut my Borgensen. I need to check that. Idiot.
Nice! A little road vibration is normal but I can’t say I have a clunk. That’s definitely worth investigating.
Did you have a new steering box, steering linkage, and/or tie rod ends when you installed this shaft?
I had a new Saginaw power steering pump, steering gear box is a few years old (maybe 5), and tie rod ends are about 5 years old too.
Would you recommend this kit or a oem rag joint replacement
If your current rag joint is trash, either way will be a huge improvement. If your rag joint is fine just old, you will see an improvement switching to the the Borgeson.
Hello can you please make a video on how to put on a new ignition plastic rod
What is the ignition plastic rod? Where in the ignition system are you referring too?
i have a 96 bronco. i know the truck and bronco use the same platform . will this repair be the same i am currently rebuilding the front steering from tie rods to steering box . can you give me any advice?
If I remember correctly, this is the same steering shaft as the bronco.
As for the tie rod ends and drag link, you can buy whatever the parts store has available and it installs the same at the trucks.
Enjoy your programs, I have a question for you and any one that reads this. I have a 95 F-150 with 210000 about. the engine has never been opened up, we plan on a road trip with it to Texas from Arizona. I have a leaking freeze plug under the front cross member and plan on pulling the engine and replacing them all along with the real seal. What is your opinion on pulling the pan and replacing the rod and main bearings along with the oil pump and timing chain at the same time??? Top end is good with less then 10% on all 8 cylinders lowest being 105 psi oh its a 5.0 Thanks Rick Lockhart
Thank you Rick! 🤙
Nice! That’s a good length trip.
If you have the engine out and budget isn’t an issue. I would replace as much as you can. Definitely replace any and all seals, the timing chain, and oil pump. If you want to go for gold, you can replace the main bearings too. Install a new thermostat and water pump to. Do you want to make sure your coolant system is in good shape for a trip like that.
it sounds like the motor is still in good shape for the miles but since your pulling it anyways you could replace some stuff. With a real oil pressure gauge does it keep 30 psi hot idle and at 2000 rpm hot should be 50-60 psi if so I wouldnt worry about bearings but a new oil pump should pick it up some and you can always run 15w40 oil like I do. If you replace the timing chain make sure you get a good quality true roller set.
@@tblosser8921 I run 20w50 in it and on the stock gauge I have around 50 psi at 1500 and more when driving. with it out of the truck I will check the bearings with plastigauge
At that point a quick in frame but, out of frame might be wise to finish the deal by ridge ream cylinder bores if needed followed by bottle honing the cylinders to seat a new precut rings.
To freshen up the heads on a budget as long as no valves bent or sunk in the heads disassemble clean up hand lapped valves via (cordless drill) using grinding compound to freshen up the mating surfaces between the seats and valves don’t mix up valves just as if it’s a flat tapped camshaft don’t mix up the lifters rollers don’t matter.
Install new valve guide seals and valve springs and the heart will be that much better and ready to go go for round two.
If Fords are like Chevrolet, Chrysler, AMC regarding freeze plugs there will be (2) on the back of the block behind the flex plate (3) if you count the freeze plug and the camshaft bore..
Clean the opening apply a thin layer of permatex #1 on the brass freeze plug and drive it home then although, no required but I always stake the in three spots with a flat chisel.
Side note: the bearings with have a part number on the back side each half so no need to worry about plastic gauging as long as you get the same ones
Another great video Stevie
Can you make a vid on the harmonic balancer? I have a 96 model and I'm struggling with the harmonic balancer and it's reluctor ring
I might have too. I’m suspicious my harmonic balancer is making a random knock noise. I’m not 100% sure though.
Were you having some kind of issue with yours?
@@TheMinuteMasters yeah, it'll feel like it's randomly missing very slightly. When I swapped it, the old one is starting to separate. The rubber is starting to split. That throws it out of balance, and my old one has a 4 point reluctor wheel that works with the hall effect sensor. Without that ring on the back, it doesn't read correctly
@@johnnylantern3609 Interesting. What engine do you have?
What is the spline count on the box and the shaft in the column are they both 30 spline
Good question. I never counted them. I just bought the shaft that matches the year and model of my truck.
Does this shaft work on 2 & 4 wheel drive F150’s
As far as I know, it’s mostly determined by model and year. I think it’s good for both 2wd and 4wd.
Does this replacement steering shaft will work on a 1984 f150?
I’m pretty sure they make another part# shaft for the 80s.
What did you cut the shaft with, hack Saw or band saw maybe? Thanks man
Following. And also would like to know what size bit he used to drill the new holes and if they need tapped?
I used a Milwaukee sawzall with a Diablo carbide blade.🤙
@@JRHINE83 I just pulled out a drill bit that was roughly the same size as the hole. The hole doesn’t need to be tapped. So you’re good there.🤙
Cut the other end don’t drill it!
I have a question isnt the collapsible part supposed to go into the cab like the original? Am I crazy or is this shaft in backwards?
nevermind im an idiot I see that the borgeson one has the spline on the other end.
Hey it’s an easy thing to over look. Both ends are very similar looking.
is that a Saginaw steering pump conversion
Yup! I have a full video on how to do it.
Quick question...if I hit a big pot hole/bump in the road my steering wheel will jerk like crazy. Any idea what that could be?
If you hit a pothole and your steering jerks around a lot, it sounds like you have what is called “bump“ steer. Do you have a lift on your truck?
@@TheMinuteMasters Oh ok. I never heard of that before. Nope. It's stock height. 97 F250 HD 4X4.
if you have a steering stabilizer shock on the axle, replace it, you can also upgrade to a dual setup that should make it even better
@@chuck095 Ok I'll look into that. Thanks
Im about to replace my steering box. I may do this when im in there. What did the shaft cost?
Nice!🤙 You love the feel once you replace both. The shaft is $289. I put a link in the description. That’s the cheapest I’ve seen.
@@TheMinuteMasters thanks fornthe info
@@MrYz250fman No problem Kaleb!🤙
Can u please do oil pump replacement video?
I’d love too. You might have to wait a bit though. I had the engine out of my truck a little over a year ago and my oil pump looked good enough to stay. But I’ll definitely replace it when I go to do a rebuild.
@@TheMinuteMasters ok thanks
Do you think it's worth it for money spent, Stevie? Was looking on Summit....and the cash layout is substantial. How big of a difference between the stock system and this one? If one buys the power steering pump....plus the uni joint and shaft, the parts investment is substantial....$800 to $1000 including taxes (Canadian). I know you've done your tie rods....but have you replaced your pitman arm? Up to now, I've just done ball joints and all the tie rods.
If you need to spare $300 on something more important, I’d pass on the Borgeson shaft. With that said, the feel between the two steering shafts is night and day for a variety of reasons. - The first thing you notice is how solid the steering feels. It feels solid and precise.
- Without the rag joint, you do feel more of the road through the wheel. The trucks vibrate for a variety of reasons. So that doesn’t bother me.
- On the highway at speeds 50+, is where this shaft shines. At high speeds, I don’t think the rag joint responds well (I have larger 31 inch tires so there’s a tad more to control). The Borgeson responds well to steering input and the front end wonders less. I can just about hold the steering wheel I’m the same spot and the truck will stay straight. Before there was more steering input needed due to the rag joint.
As for the Saginaw pump, there is definitely more power which makes it finger light to steer. Plus, my personal favorite, it’s super quiet.
So, it’s up to you. I love these mods. My truck feels new and sounds new. If you want to run larger than stock tires, I think these mods become a must have.
@@TheMinuteMasters Stevie, what if we're going to do a limited fix, and just replace the shaft? Is it wrong to start with it and not do the front end stuff? I hate the float in my steering, and would be happy to spend the $300 on it, but I'm not so crazy about replacing the front end and the pump. Love my '96, but not refurbishing it, just maintaining. Thanks.
@@borderlineiq Hey I'm not Stevie, but as someone that's done more reading in my '92 than I care to admit I'll throw in my 2 cents. I just finished with my Saginaw swap and new steering box, but from what I've read in the forums it seems you'd really want to make sure your ball joints/tie rod ends/etc. (your "fundamentals of steering" I guess haha) are all good before anything else. I guess the idea is that if the foundation more or less isn't solid then you're going to be pretty disappointed with how little your $300 steering shaft actually helps.
Once those are squared away your wallet will start to feel heavy, don't worry!
@@borderlineiq My tie rod ends and ball joints are mostly new. Honestly, a new steering gear box and steering shaft are the two best steering fixes/upgrades. So, if you could only pick two, those are pretty good.
@@thedude3803 Thanks, "Dude"! ;) I asked about the steering when I had the truck in the garage back when, but they didn't see anything, but may have been lazy.
My Steering wheel is upside down. I need to turn it 180°. Somewhere in this process is that possible?
Was it upside down to start with?
@@TheMinuteMasters No. I Swapped to a Grant wood steering wheel. The billet adapter made it upside down. Now I need to turn it 180°
@@mad-skillsteam4423 that’s weird. I would try flipping the adapter.
Yeah, tried that. Not possible.
@@mad-skillsteam4423 that’s so weird that happened. I would call the manufacturer and see what the issue is.
My ford 1995 f150 loses power every time I turn the steering wheel. You know what’s wrong with it bro?
I would read you codes and see if there are any sensor issues.
When was the last time you did an ignition tuneup?
Almost never
@@davidchocolate7754 Definitely watch my Ignition tune up video and replace all the parts shown. It will help a lot.
Don't forget to paint or clear coat it. It will rust
Good point! I’ll have to do that before winter.
Christ $400 for a new shaft
Is that the price now days??
At 2:00 you said drive shaft and then again after. Went on the engine bay and pointed at your steering shaft and called it a drive shaft again.
Just an fyi in case any nooby gets confused.
It’s a steering shaft not a drive shaft.
Good point. My mistake
@@TheMinuteMasters you’re videos are great. looking out for the fellow ford obs guys.
@@SnD340 Thanks man!🤙
I didn't cut mine down. Probablyyyyy gonna die
Hahaha! It’s probably not a requirement but that’s what I read.
Same no cut but I don't intend to wreck my baby anyway.
Dont cut yours without measuring it fully extended first. You probably don't even need to cut it at all. Measuring collapsed could leave you short! I just fucking cut mine exactly like this video and it's was fucking short. I'm fucking stupid.
What year did you buy your shaft for? The stock shaft lengths seem to vary from year to year. Following my exact measurements for a 95 F-150 with 2wd might not (and didn’t) work for you. For best results you have to compare the new shaft with the original.
@@TheMinuteMasters same part number for the shaft. Mine is a 96 f150 2wd, 4.9l. I measured exactly like you did. Mine was just different. I should of seen how long it was fully extended and compared as well. I just went with the measurement when it was fully collapsed. I probably didn't even have to cut it. On my way to get it welded. 🤣🤣
@@luisrg436 Hey it can happen to anybody Luis! I don’t know what Ford didn’t use a standard length steering shaft. Yup, I would get that sucker welded by a pro, so it comes out straight too.
Too much play in my 95 steering.
Even with the Borgeson steering shaft?
@@TheMinuteMasters No, it's Stock. It's time to make some improvements. As far as play, What helped the most, Saginaw or the Borgeson Steering Shaft?
@@bobbywren123 Gotcha. I totally get it. Assuming your drag link steering assembly (tie rod ends and associated parts) and ball joints are new. A new steering gear box and steering shaft would really improve steering for you. The Saginaw pump will eliminate the steering whine and of course give you more steering power.
You dont like the feeling youre going to loose control at any moment while your doing 85 on the interstate?
Nope! Lol
How much do these shafts cost?
They are almost $300. Definitely a pricey mod but they are well made.
@@TheMinuteMasters If it outlasts 3 of the oem ones, it would be worth it.
@@garypitzer8729 This is true. I haven’t heard anything negative about them yet.