Datsun 280z: Installing Coilovers From BC Racing Makes a Jaw Dropping Difference.
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- čas přidán 22. 08. 2024
- In this video I go through the step by step process of installing the coilovers in my 1977 Datsun 280z. This was a project i put off for too long because i was afraid to make some major modifications to the body and suspension of the Z. After a few small hicupps the project went smooth as can be expected but the final result were astounding. the car feels like its on rails now. it has transformed the looks and the ride quality.
BC Racing was not the sponsor of this video, although feel free to posthumously hook it up!
thanks for watching
love finding other datsun youtubers? car looks fantastic and youve got some pretty killer art skills too dude. keep up the good work
Thanks, yeah my feed needs some more z's! Thanks for taking the time to leave some kind words.. I'm gonna have some updates on the z soon! Working on the fuel rail and trying to decide if I wanna do an ecu. I'll have some more tattoo and art stuff soon too! Thanks again -jr
I really enjoyed your video, good voice and videoing, your welds are fine, it aint brain surgery, keep up the fine work u r doeing.
thanks so much. its hard to video and work at the same time and pay attention to making words sound good :) that my youtube voice my wife says. :)
For the lowered springs issue, I had a similar problem before, and there were two possible culprits. 1) the springs for the front were installed in the rear and the rear to the front. 2) using 240z lowering springs and the oem strut tower mount in the rear is from a 280z. I made mistake no. 1, but easily fixed that by swapping springs from front to aft.
Good to know.. That was my first thought but they were labeled front and back . (Possibly incorrectly.) 240z seems like the likely answer. Since they were loose when I got the car in a box.. I was thinking the rubber bushing at the top hat could be the problem too.. I think there is a difference in Thickness between 240 and 280z
Great I came across your video I was contemplating on doing mine just stressed about the cut and weld I feel I can tackle this thanks to you 👍 by the way what wheels and offset are you using on your Z
hey sorry i thought i replied earlier to this.. thanks its not so bad definitely a little stressful :) the wheels are spdline zuka 15x9 i think they are -10 all the way around.. www.spdlinewheels.com/?s=zuka&post_type=product
Great Video! I wish this came out a few months ago I just finished installing mine on my 240. Good tip for those trying this would be to tack the rears while the upper coilover mounts are installed in the car. My weld somehow on the rear is a bit lopsided and had to force it to lineup into the strut mount... hoping it wont affect the coilover performance...
Ah, Yeah I should have had it out last year but I was being too chickenshit to make the cuts.. Yeah attacking it might be useful to help with alignment for sure.. I wonder what caused it to be lopsided.. did your struts sleeve over?
@@inkandpistons ya they had a tight fit when I slid them on so I was surprised it was off. but it only happened on one of the rears.
@@Ryz240 wacky.. i wonder if something else was bent or misaligned that only showed up once the strut was cut.. crazy.. pass the blame on to someone else :)
@@inkandpistons ya not sure. Just bought a replacement lower mount and will have to cut and reweld :(...
@@Ryz240 yeah might as well better safe than sorry
Did you put any rust preventative in the coil over tube after welding? I've watched a couple of videos of peeps putting these together and it doesn't seem like anyone does, at least not on camera. But it seems like a good idea to use some weld through primer before welding the strut case and then shooting in some cavity wax before inserting the threaded part of the coil overs.
yeah i thought i showed that in the video around the 14 minute mark but i used a spray epoxy coating after wire brushing the welds on the outside.. i probably didnt show it but i did spray the inside as well
Thank you for making this video! I am currently following along and am very jealous of how easy you were able to unscrew the nuts that held in your shock, mine were a nightmare. I now have both fronts out of the car, cleaned up, and ready to weld. I would really like to pull the rears out to do that welding on the bench and don't understand how doing the rears on the car made it easier for you. What work/challenges/misery did you save yourself by leaving the rears attached to the car?
ha, yeah those nuts can be a crusty mess. I really am impressed how clean this car I have is. California car for the win!!
Honestly leaving them on probably didn't save much time. The hardest part was removing the bolts on the the half shaft since you cant really get anything but an open end wrench in there and I had to do that anyway. I probably only saved myself 30 minutes of disassembly/reassembly on that bottom knuckle. Oh, I just remembered (its been a years since i did this) I think I also didn't want to remove the nut going to my rear wheel drum cylinder. The one on the passenger side is all gnarled up and will probably never go back on once it comes off one more time. I have a new set of SS braided lines and I'm going to do a rear disc conversion. when i do that i will get rid of that boogered up nut. Otherwise I wouldn't say it caused any misery.. maybe just welding at a funny angle. but on the brighter side it also held my work still while I grinded and welded.. so I consider it a wash! :) good luck
@@inkandpistonsThanks for the reply and additional insight. I am going to go with the full pull on the rears and do the welds on the bench. Fronts were welded yesterday and went according to plan. Again THANK YOU for this video; it brought me the confidence to tackle the job and was the reason I picked the BC coilovers.
@robertvaughan4994 right on good luck with the rest of the project!
@@inkandpistons I figured out another reason to keep the rear on the car: the spindle pin requires a special tool to remove and hammering it out is a bad idea.
@@robertvaughan4994 ah.. yes that is another good tick for the lazy column 😉
Hi just seen that you have answered the wheel question on comments below 👍
Yeah specs below, No worries, I love the size and offset.. been cruising this set up for a few months now.. love it. yeah its not to difficult, measure twice cut once! Weld solid! Thanks for watching!
This was good video
Thanks appreciate you.
GOOD！ナイスプライベーター、次はキャリパー＆ローター化したいとこですね。
アフターマーケットの EFI をインストールしたい。
ブレーキは待つことができます 😏
どうもありがとうございます.
(あなたは日本のどこにいますか？)
Can I buy those 240z spindles from you? Maybe that will help.
I actually was able to sell them on FB marketplace a couple of weeks ago..thanks though! 👍
Good job! How did the compliance/ride quality change after this? Obviously the handling will be better and the car will be cornering flatter, but did it make it harsher or more jarring over bad road surfaces too?
Oddly I don't think there was much change. However I did have lowering springs already installed. I never really drove the car with it's stock suspension. But if anything I think the ride quality improved for me. Those springs sucked and I had 2 blown shocks .. I do notice at low speed small bumps seem a little bigger than normal maybe. Very tolerable for daily driving. Our roads in south Florida are pretty good though. Thanks for watching!
@@inkandpistons Thanks for the reply! That makes sense. Good to know it's a little better than on lowering springs. Which wheels do you have btw?
@@robot_san no problem. they are 15x9 speed line zukas.. basically a wantanbe knock off
For me it made a major difference, i had oem springs in back and some crappy lowering springs in the front. Night and day for me. So much better. Even over pot holes and rough roads. I did buy swift spring upgrade
Nice job.
thanks!
Looks great, are the bottom's of the coil's steel? I'm assuming you just used a mig welder?
yeah the BC racing set up leaves the bottom inch or so of teh coil sleeves uncoated so its ready to weld. once you grind the crap out of the 45 year old spindle arms, a little mig welding and your solid. i could have tig welded it too but i am very out of practice on the tig torch!
@@inkandpistons gotcha thanks! I only have a basic mig & can’t do aluminum. Your welds look better then most, trust me!’
@@danmcgovern1975 yeah I can't do aluminum to save my life 😂 thanks. I practiced a little on some scrap to get the hang of it again ..
Are those the extreme lows? Or standard? I want to go lower in my car. How much lower can you go?
Those are the regular.. in theory I can still take out at least 31mm front and 91 back. But I can also preload the spring for a few more mills.. I could tuck the tires for sure if the wheels weren't so wide or if my fenders were cut and flared.
Did you keep the stock control arms?
@@DLANM57 yes for now. Some day I may upgrade to t3's or something.
What did you do with the 240 spindles ?
@@bobbydigital1493 I ended up selling them on eBay or fb marketplace
What size bit did you use to drill out the holes? I need to open my rears and add some camber.
51mm this is the bit I used 51mm (2 inch) Metal Steel Hole Saw Drill Bit a.co/d/1Ueiv7x
@@inkandpistons thank you I appreciate it. I need to drill mine i really dont want to, but i need to add some camber to tuck my tires. I tried last night to adjust my camber, and figured out why people drill them out lol
@@tylerurtiaga8201 yeah depending on the coilovers 2" should do it
Hi 👋
Question what size are those wheels?
Howdy! 15x9 spdline zukas -10 offset I believe
💥💥💥💥
Thanks buddy
you make a cameo at 35min btw :)
LOL!!! I made it!
Sir upload more tattoo work please
Will do, Coming up soon!