BSA A50 / A65 Engine Rebuild Tips

Hey everyone!
In today's video Kyle will be going over a few tips that he believes will help anyone rebuilding a BSA A50 or A65 engine
If you are brave enough to tackle a unit twin engine rebuild, watch this video before you get your hands dirty...
Enjoy
Parts for sale:
www.classicbritishspares.com/
#classicbritishspares #bsa

[@lanceditty7300]

A50 and A65 engines are built to last . Mine is a 68 lighting. I reworked the top end ,no issues in 40 years

[@badger7015]

great video. for the novice mechanic, you showed what to do clearly, and succinctly, with great lighting. your videos are always a welcomed view.

[@SLED649]

Good stuff! A lot of that gets overlooked!👍

[@jimsheldonswe7846]

My first bike was a 650 lightening I think that was a a65. Rode very nice, didn’t stop fast though.

[@thebruise]

Wish id seen this 2 years ago :) did a rebuild and replaced the sloppy cam bush put the engine back together and thought it was tight, put it under the bench and thats where its stayed :) might dig it back out and try again now you’ve reminded its still to do :) cheers Rich

[@richarddouglas3036]

Real knowledge. Thank you

[@garrystalker83]

Cool vid loved it

[@classicbritishspares]

Thanks for watching!

[@douglasmcgeary2424]

question. if you had a 1956 BSA COMPETITION 500, brand new never even had oil in it. what do you think it’s worth?

[@silasmarner7586]

Am I correct in saying that a BSA is unique in that it has a bushing on one side of the crank and a roller on the other? Whereas a unit Triumph has rollers on both sides? I don't recall...

[@packhams4]

I believe 500 twin Triumphs had a T/S bush right till the last models, as did G80 Matchless/AJS singles.
Sure there would have been quite a few other penny-pinching manufacturers who did that .
650 Triumphs sensibly had a T/S ball race, D/S roller, Commandos have rollers both sides [and need them]. Brit manufacturers always prioritised their spending towards bling over bearings, when the budgets were done. The fancy BSA twin tank badges probably cost more than a T/S bearing.....

[@classicbritishspares]

@@packhams4 BSA - If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, baffle them with bull shit

[@jagitmax]

So what your saying is, if the bushings are at or near their tolerance specs for wear, LEAVE THEM ? Sorry man i dont agree with that, if all components are getting replaced with new bearings, why ignore the bushings on the intermediate gear and cam. As a customer paying for a reliable rebuild, that's what your responsible for providing, if your not competent , dont accept the job.

[@classicbritishspares]

I won’t do it, it’s as simple as that. This is exactly why many folks don’t work on BSA motors, too complicated and often times the customer won’t pay for it simply because the bike isn’t worth it. To each there own. You make your own choice

[@maaseyracer]

​ @jagitmax I tend to agree with @classicbritishspares about the tolerance. One of the biggest flaws on these cases is the lack of a second dowel pin or case alignment pin. This leaves the cam and crank as part of the alignment system. Aligning the cases by adding a dowel which requires a new bushing and line boring the crank and cam is the only real resolution. This then puts you in the place of starting with a fresh bushing. If you are worried about the tolerance of the spec you can always have the crank main journal coated with a dry film lubricant that will tighten the tolerances, burnish into place and make sure there is always oil on the bearing. I use dry film lubricants on all my rod bearings and I am stock on the stock journal sizes of most of the bikes I run. My norton has 90k miles on the stock rod journal grinds as I went to dry film lubricants at 45k miles. I have an A70 engine, I have not check to see if it had a second dowel in the cases or not, the 64 I am rebuilding for sure did not.