Every engine is a snowflake... They are all a little different. Before you take your engine down for a rebuild, check your port timing and head squish.
Stock KX500 base gasket is .020. You can buy aluminum spacers from Cometic to make port timing changes easy. But you need to know what you have BEFORE you order anything.. A lot of times you can tighten up your squish by getting the correct base shim or gasket stack. For a lot of guys this is all they want for additional power.
184 p.t worked well ,47 to 60 squish / target 55 , torque ?, take .040" off the bottom adjust head gasket to head cut or vise versa witch ever works out for you . clean up all the bad casting in the ports , polish the exhaust will help with the carbon build up
Man... sorry to be the 50 questions here on each of your videos..... But, I can't find much yet on what kind of range the port timing "should" be on a kx500. As Im getting older, I prefer more bottom end grunt, and don't really hit the top very often anymore.... and actually quite like the torque for trail riding and technical riding... so, I'm looking for low end gruntability... I'm wondering what port timing number would be a better number to shoot for, 180? Thoughts?
180 is pretty low... You will loose a ton of top end but you will get a lot of bottom end. I would recommend 182.5 which will be removing about .040 off the bottom of the cylinder. that will mean that you will need to use a head gasket of about .050", or have your head recut.. I would also recommend a flywheel weight. Heavier is better. Also a PWK quad vent airstriker 38mm. Torque monster.. Last, join kxguru.com. I don't check youtube very often.
Thanks bud.... I just signed up, and have a lot to read before I post much more. I will keep this information, then ask later on KXguru about a B 540 kit question.. ( It was part of the basket case I got with the motor, but didn't plan on using it). Sure appreciate your expertise!
If you got room for another bike (who doesnt?) CR500s make loads of low-end power stock.. Ive found the KX has much more on top, CR is low to mid. I have both, and love 'em to pieces (and back together again!).
In a discussion on a 2 t group and thought id ask do you use your clucht to shift, and what sort of riding do you use it or halfway pull in, also does it make gearbox wear out quicker not using it and how often do you have gear box probs?
Hey whats up, i have an 88 kx and the previous owner rippet the trans appart and there are some toothed washers for the transmission, when i put the washers in my gears dont spin free, they are stuck.. in the explosion draw there are no washers included.. but in the draw from the 87 the washers are included... can anyone help me with that problem ?
Stock KX500 base gasket is .020. You can buy aluminum spacers from Cometic to make port timing changes easy. But you need to know what you have BEFORE you order anything.. A lot of times you can tighten up your squish by getting the correct base shim or gasket stack. For a lot of guys this is all they want for additional power.
I allways do some cleanup porting when I rebuild an engine the first time anyway, so port timing, and flow, is consistent.
Fantastic video!
184 p.t worked well ,47 to 60 squish / target 55 ,
torque ?,
take .040" off the bottom
adjust head gasket to head cut or vise versa witch ever works out for you .
clean up all the bad casting in the ports ,
polish the exhaust will help with the carbon build up
Man... sorry to be the 50 questions here on each of your videos..... But, I can't find much yet on what kind of range the port timing "should" be on a kx500. As Im getting older, I prefer more bottom end grunt, and don't really hit the top very often anymore.... and actually quite like the torque for trail riding and technical riding... so, I'm looking for low end gruntability... I'm wondering what port timing number would be a better number to shoot for, 180? Thoughts?
180 is pretty low... You will loose a ton of top end but you will get a lot of bottom end. I would recommend 182.5 which will be removing about .040 off the bottom of the cylinder. that will mean that you will need to use a head gasket of about .050", or have your head recut.. I would also recommend a flywheel weight. Heavier is better. Also a PWK quad vent airstriker 38mm. Torque monster.. Last, join kxguru.com. I don't check youtube very often.
Thanks bud.... I just signed up, and have a lot to read before I post much more. I will keep this information, then ask later on KXguru about a B 540 kit question.. ( It was part of the basket case I got with the motor, but didn't plan on using it). Sure appreciate your expertise!
If you got room for another bike (who doesnt?) CR500s make loads of low-end power stock..
Ive found the KX has much more on top, CR is low to mid.
I have both, and love 'em to pieces (and back together again!).
@@freebikepost Heavier flywheel will ruin the bike snappy power & all the fun dude
thats a bitchin' degree wheel man! way better than the one i print off the net and glue to cardboard.
Glue it to a CD than its perfect
In a discussion on a 2 t group and thought id ask do you use your clucht to shift, and what sort of riding do you use it or halfway pull in, also does it make gearbox wear out quicker not using it and how often do you have gear box probs?
Great video. Thankyou.
What is a good value for squish on a mx bike to target for?
.050 is great but can be more or less.
Hey whats up, i have an 88 kx and the previous owner rippet the trans appart and there are some toothed washers for the transmission, when i put the washers in my gears dont spin free, they are stuck.. in the explosion draw there are no washers included.. but in the draw from the 87 the washers are included... can anyone help me with that problem ?
I need a 89 kx 250 flywheel