Removing a Very STUCK Bottom Bracket (Square Taper)
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- čas přidán 31. 10. 2021
- Bottom brackets can be seized or stubborn over time, especially when water gets into the frame or rusting in bottom bracket area.
Remove both the crank arms with the crank puller.
The square taper bottom bracket contains the cup and unit and taking the cup out first is preferable.
1994 Trek 930 SHX Singletrack - Shimano BB-LP30 / 73mm / 118mm Axle
1996 Specialized Ground Control - Shimano BB-LP26 / 73mm / 107mm Axle
The plastic or metal cups can be on either sides, so keep that in mind and identify your bottom bracket first. Like the Trek 930, the cup is on the drive side. On the other hand, the Specialized Ground Control has its cup on the non-drive side.
Turn it counter clockwise to remove.
The cup is removed, but not the unit on the other side.
Heating up the bottom bracket could help to break it loose.
Bring out a headset cap and crank arm fixing bolt.
Insert the bottom bracket tool, headset cap and crank arm fixing bolt to secure the tool in place.
The headset cap is from a quill stem converter.
If the crank bolt is too short, you’ll then need to find a M7 bolt in your local utility store but it could be hard to find.
Turn it clockwise with the wrench.
The adjustable wrench didn’t work out, so next step is to use the breaker bar with 32mm socket.
Clean the bottom bracket shell and then lubricate the threads and area.
A Hollowtech II bottom bracket will be installed.
More BB removal videos:
Worth Upgrading to Hollowtech II? • Worth Upgrading to Hol...
Replacing Square Taper Bottom Bracket To Hollowtech II • Replacing Square Taper...
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I want to thank you so so so much. I had been trying to use a socket wrench on the removal tool to loosen the non-drive side. No matter how hard I tried, nothing. Then I saw you use a big wrench, which allowed you to hold everything tightly in place with your free hand. I tried that, and it broke free. Blessings to you!
This is the gift that keeps on giving. Wouldn't have occurred to me to put a bolt on there!
I put a bolt on, hit it with my heat gun, and stomped on it. BOOM! Finally got it loose.
Thanks for saving me a lot of frustration!
The is the best, simplest and no BS video on the BB removal, superb job, thanks
Simplest is to use an impact gun, but nevertheless this is a quality method.
@@joehart3826impact guns are anything but simple
Outstanding! Thank you! Look forward to attacking this task afresh tomorrow with what I just learned.
Excellent. Thank you so much for the effort and information.
Hi Sir. REALLY helpful! Fantastic idea using the headset cup. I had to drill out the hole of a spare one I had to 8mm, but it worked with the breaker bar! Thanks! 😊
2:30 what !!
Shit, why didn't I think of this?, You saved me !!
I was in trouble, I couldn't open the bottom bracket with that tool alone, it always fell off, It was so clogged, I couldn't move it, but with your idea, I can open it.
Thank you very much .
Good, basic instructions. I have just followed that to successfully remove my BB cup. I did give it a squirt of Plusgas penetration oil to ease its progress beforehand. It genuinely seems to help on all sticky threads.
Wow so simple and effective. First video I have come across that tackles a seized bottom bracket and to use a bolt and washer to hold the tool on, why didn't I think of that.
Excellent video thanks for uploading!
Great video, very helpful and 'real world' - thank you:)
I just did this after seeing your video and it saved me so much time and frustration 👍😃
Great explanation. Your method worked.
You're the best Danyo, thanks.
Dear sir
Thank you so much for this video. Just what I needed when about giving up.
Kind regards
Amazing wish I’d watch this a week ago!
This video helped me out. Thank you!
For me, spraying some penetrating oil onto both sides at least 1 hr before attempting to remove helps
If time allows, leave overnight
I had to leave overnight for multiple nights @Cassidy127
Oh my, this is what I'll be facing in the very near future.. time to tool up!
very instructive!! thanks!
Appreciate the tips 👍
well mine was a lot more stuck. what worked for me was flap wheeling the face of the thing until all tool fittings were gone and it was flush with the bottom bracket shell. then using a die grinder with a burr bit i carved through the race in 2 places on opposite sides. a hack saw would be great here in theory but the race is so hard, all the teeth on your hacksaw just wear down in seconds. so after turning the threaded race into 2 parts, you are able to pry it away from the threads. this leaves damage in 2 places in the bottom bracket threads but its better than throwing the bike in the garbage.
Very helpful.. Thank you
Thank you for that 👍
Very satisfying
Must try this on my stubborn bb
You know all the tricks 😉!!
Fantastic!
Mostly headset caps are gonna fit with M5 screw, just get a big washer that fits your crank bolt instead of the headset cap, I removed mine firstly on the non drive side ( the cup ) to flood it with WD-40 or oil to make the drive side ( unit ) easier to unscrew, and I broken loose the drive side with the adjustable wrench with a long pipe
Excellent video! Thank you! Next step, get out my heat gun.
I used a lever as long as the down tube t get it off, and need to clean up the threads. I thing using a Bafang motor earlier was very rough on the BB!
Good tips
Brilliant 👏
This is a great trick. My only issue now is to get a stuck bb out with a broken spindle 🤦♂️
Any tips on removing a uneven bottom bracket
Who makes that shallow bottom bracket tool? The one I have is like 3 times as long so I can do this.
hey i used a Park Took BBT-22 and it snapped in half. How should i remove it if it’s that stuck
I bought a new bike to put my Bafang mid-motor kit on it. I got thr cranks off. Can get that tool to stay in the grooves. Im stripping the threads. I might have to carefully drill it out and use tiny hacksaw. I just want to get shimano bracket set out for my motor.
This seems to be a common problem. Wouldn't lubing the threads with anti seize compound facilitate future disassembly?
Where did u get the headset cap from i can’t find any
Thanks for this video i'm going to prepare Can i use a 18 inch breaker bar or should i use bigger for the drive side
And what is yours ?
Yes, it should work fine, mine is a 24 inch.
Wow. That thing stuck really good
@ 3:00 You said M7 bolt. I don't know if that's correct. In my case, I used a m8 bolt x 1.0 pitch (pitch is important as 1.25 pitch would not work) and 50mm long to secure a BB removal tool to the taper (with a 3mm spacer)
It was a M7 bolt in my case, I’ve tried the M6 and M8 bolts but none of them fits.
Good to know about the thread pitch, thanks for sharing.
@@DanyoSports Interesting. I thought the crank bolts would be universal in diameter and pitch. I think it's also worth pointing out that if both sides are tight, take the cup side off first otherwise you won't have a spindle to screw onto and make sure to loosen the bolt a little on cup side as you untighten so you have space to allow the tool to back out.
Wrost bottom bracket is square tapers i dont like but i have i need to change but it cost very very high
for you it was easy, i have the tool to detach the arm from the bottom bracket but the thread failed so now no tool can help me, what do I do?
Bro did you only hammer it with a screwdriver???
Well then go weld it or go to a machine shop to remove it
@@nzo_6543 i finally used a long piece of metal and put it between the arm the frame on one side the another thing on the opposite side (180deg) and i finally pulled it out, I first used a hammer and a screwdriver but it didnt even flinch..
@@aioaneiflorin1775 if your non drive side is easy to remove then soak it with WD-40, I think it makes the drive side little easier to remove, because I did the same thing, but I soaked my non drive side removed cup with only only, and i got broken loose with an adjustable wrench with long pipe to add more leverage.
with oil,
Yoo nice videoo I remembered about youu
Thanks! How’s going?
@@DanyoSports good
Yeah got one side out.
Could WD-40 do the job along with using the crank nut and breaker bar?
Sure, I would give it a try.
thats my todays challenge lmao
What is meant by 'drive-side' and non-drive side?
drive side is the side with gearing, usually the right side of the bike
Yes, drive side is the right hand side of the bike, and non-drive side is the left hand side of the bike.
So, clockwise to loosen?
Drive side yes
The bolt and top cap as washer is brilliant and the 32mm this is a hidden secret of top mechanics !😮
I hate dealing with square taper bottom brackets. They need to make hollowtech-style standard.
WD-40, PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench are your friends in situations like this
you must heat the bottom bracket only!!
absolutely correct. Heat makes metal expand
@@vmartinez71 learned it from an old man who lives in a car junk yard
no chance. my tool just slips
That relly work
Türkçe altyazı olsa ıyi ölür teşekürler
yeah if I had a breaker bar with a socket for my bb tool I wouldn't be searching for this video lmao
even with all the specialized proper tools, some are far too stuck to be removed conventionally. i work in a bike shop and many times have had to use grinders, saws, torches etc ALONG with the proper tools and enough leverage
Not all bottom bracket bolts are M7, I ordered M7 x 40mm to do what you said only to discover that the bolts on my Carrera Karkinos are M8, so I got M8 x 40mm, bottom bracket still wouldn't budge, then we clamped the adjustable spanner to a scaffolding pole with a flattened end, still wouldn't move, heated the bottom bracket up and tried again, this time two of us were pushing down on the scaffolding pry bar extension when the pressure became too much and the jaws of my heavy duty stanley adjustable snapped.
I don't believe that your video is very truthful, that bottom bracket that you showed, the one that was allegedly rusted on, was definitely removed and then replaced for the making of your video, because there's not a chance in hell that a bottom bracket that was rusted on, released as easily as you portrayed in this video, no chance!
And before anyone says anything, Yes, we were trying to remove it in the right direction, Clockwise drive side & counter clockwise on the non-drive side., it still snapped the adjustable's jaws
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