Hi, great video. I had a similar issue. I went to my LBS and bought an old cup to thread into the drive side so when I started sawing from the non-drive side, I wouldn't damage the threads. Worked like a charm! (It kept the saw level too.)
I think once the drive side is removed, you have access to apply penetrating oil from DS as well. I would apply penetrating oil from inside and outside over several days before resorting to drastic measures. I’m not saying you are wrong to do this but I would only use your measure as a very last resort. Also a Dremel might be a more controlled way to remove metal without thread damage. Thanks for the video.
Mine was really stuck. I completely chewed up the plastic teeth on the non drive side. So I used my electric impact gun on the drive side. It worked a treat!!
As damaging the threads is inevitable I would have also used a bottom bracket thread chaser tool to clean out the damaged threads before installing the new non-driveside cup.
Had great success with penetrating oil, a heat gun and an impact wrench. Apply the oil let it soak overnight. Reapply oil heat it slowly till u see and smell oil burning off. Ck the temp intermittently with your hands to make sure it’s not too hot. Let the soak in a couple of minutes and hit it with the impact wrench. Worked like a charm on two heavily oxidized and seized BB’s. One was a steel frame the other aluminum. Go slow and let the heat go the work.
I don’t use any bikes, but the assault bike I have uses the exact same bottom bracket as this bike. And your thought process has literally been mine, even trying the vise with a socket wrench and banging it with a hammer, it’s still not coming loose. So all these tips are awesome. Def gonna try removing the other side first. Thanks for the video!
I had the exact same problem recently. I took the exact same approach, but instead of a saw blade I used a file to gently file 4 notches at the 12, 3, 6 and 9 o'clock positions. Once they were deep enough I hammered the edges just like you did. The thing came out! The threads were damaged but still functional. My next challenge was rust. There was a significant amount of it inside the bottom bracket shell and in the threads. At the time, I was a bit short of time and patience so I did not try to fully remove the rust (say by soaking the bottom bracket shell in vinegar or lemon juice for 24 hours). I cleaned it as best as I could with WD40 and engine degreaser, regreased the threads and the new bottom bracket and went for it. I managed to screw in the new bottom bracket with some difficulty (apart from damaged threads there was also rust blocking the threads). It now works nicely but I am not sure what will happen with the next installation or even if a next installation is possible. However, the bike is used as a short distance city commuter. It was bought for 30 euros second hand (+ 15 euros for a new bottom bracket and all new cables + housing). So, in my case, if another installation is not possible, it's not a loss as long as I can take 2 years of life out of it as it is now. Great videos, keep up the good work!
Watched the video, thank you for that. I had a problem with the plastic side getting torn up, and the drive side the tool just skipped. What worked for me was getting a long bolt with a washer to thread into the shaft bol, I had a proper size wrench which I used the circle end to put on the tool. Then I threaded it all on together and used a wrench on the opposite side to get it all really tight (I used vice grips on the threads of the bolt as I didn't have a nut which worked). This solved my problem, thank you for the inspiration!
good for you that you managed with what you had at hand. There is room for a lot of improvement with better tools. A thin hacksaw blade with teeth on one side only, and a hacksaw handle (it can be mounted after it's in the hole). Apply plenty of axial pressure on the tool to keep it seated so it does not slip and round. The easiest way is to put a washer and a bolt and screw it in the BB spindle to keep the tool seated nicely. Impact also works like a treat. Impact is less damaging to the threads and splines since the shock will unsettle the thread and will loosen at a considerable lower force, while a linear torque may not budge the thread and also may damage splines since the torque is very high. It's the dynamic action that help - Same as in a couch spring: an obese 140kg person might not break the couch springs just by sitting, but a 20kg kid that is jumping on the couch will definitely snap and bend springs. Conclusion: fix the tool tightly with a bolt, then get an air impact driver and this is the best start to remove it with minimal stress to the frame and cup and tool.
The one thing that you might try is cooling down the BB cup to shrink it just a bit. Not sure how effective that's going to be, but I'd try that before trying the saw option.
You can also try to make some kind of cut perpendicular to the line of thread on steal bottom bracket. Preferably a used one or defective bb. The idea is to copy the cut from a hand tap. This cut will clean the corroded thread inside the bb shell. I did this to my frame which was installed in a wrong direction thereby damaging the threads. I successfully corrected the thread using a defective bb with cut like the one on a hand tap.
wow what kind of saw blade is that?? i tried two new hacksaw blades and both became dull as soon as they touched the hardened race. i got it out by using a die grinder instead but i created a bigger damaged portion of the threads. so what saw blade can cut through a hardened race? (cup and cone adjustable bottom bracket)
Things to try: Dremel grinder, die grinder, light tapping with hammer and cold chisel, attaching the hacksaw blade to saw frame after the blade is though the BB.
good video, helpful, ill come back and tellyou if it works, anidea to stop damaging otherside thread owuld be to put some duct tape inside it before you start sawing, maybe
My problem is that everything is left and can not use a metal saw. It is not the same part in the frame for me. It has cogs on a wreath...you have to knock with a hammer counterclockwise but it is STUCK really...Isnt there a big tool to unscrew this or can you drill to get things move averything?
Nice job! I have the same problem right now. I just bent my bottom bracket removal tool trying to get the cup off (after making sure it's the right direction). Now I'm gonna let it sit in WD-40 overnight. We'll see ...
i had the Same Problem SickBiker !!! Seized BB on a 1994 Parkpre AL U MAX - BUT the PLASTIC BROKE OFF on the DRIVE SIDE ??? and the METAL CUP part of the BB on the NON DRIVE SIDE ? ( Not sure if install Backwards : METAL CUP 99% on the Drive Side ) had to use HEAT on the Aluminum !!! Come out Counter Clockwise Some threads stuck on the BB
I removed a seized bottom bracket with lots of penetrating oil over a few days, and then just brute force via about 6 ft of extension bars on the splined socket removal tool. It came out, but it really f*ckd up the thread. I re-threaded it as best as I could, and just about managed to get the new BB in, but I think that damaged the thread even more. I think the next time the BB needs doing, that old steal frame is only going to be good for the scrap yard.
Your bb wrench for the adjustable cup, is very short. Find a pipe that the wrench will fit snugly into it can be PVC, steel etc. It will give you much more leverage. I've even used a small torch to heat up the adjusting cup. Cutting is a last resort, especially if it's a customers bike. Dremels can be very handy if needed. Lay the frame on its drive side and spray the threads with a good penetrating oil, not wd-40, I use Kroil, it's the best. If it will move a little, move it back and forth and apply penetrating oil. Leave it for awhile and keep applying the penetrating oil. A piece of pipe gives you a lot of leverage. I've even taped the wrench on, to keep it from coming off. When you re-assemble everything, dont use grease on the threads, use anti-seize compound. A piece of PVC pipe is great for added leverage in removing stuck pedals also.
That for me, is just to drastic his last method saw off the defective component. Same problem but I will try a air impact tool next then go to that method after trying every thing else !. :)
I had a lot of trouble keeping my tool in the nut. I used C clamp to hold the tool in so it didn't keep slipping out. I'm a beginner and have only removed 3 bottom brackets and the last two gave me that problem. In both, the C clamp did the trick
I had this problem today and I put a piece of wood against the axle, and then hit it hard with a mallet. Then I tried it, it was still stuck, so I hit it again and it worked :-). Did you try that?
My drive side cup and cone bearing cup was stuck and I had no wrench. I paid a machinist a few bucks to weld a short scrap of steel pipe to the cup, then beat the pipe end clockwise till it came off. Nothing else worked, and the inner thread was spared.
I would have used the saw blade 4 times on that thing cut at the 6 o clock position the at 3 then at 12 then at 9 so it will be easier to remove and I would also use pb blaster mixed with wd 40 to help loosen it up
Oggy Morowse Thanks for the tip will try that my self. Question : How do you apply the lemon juice with a brush, or just squeeze the lemon juice on to the affected component, thanks again . :)
Hi bro, i have a problem that i can't remove the drive side out like you do, when i try take it out i made drive side nut damaged to can't use tool anymore. So what solution for my problem. Wait to your response. Thanks.
could have used some heat to remove it . that always almost always works .depending on how hot you want to get it . OR a impact drill . that also works great .
cut a deep slot with a grinder , then drive it with air hammer with a chisel bit. Heat with a blowtorch will loosen dried up old oil. Blowtorch the inside of the tube, not directly on the paint. You did good, slitting a sleeve bushing is good technique in machining. If the internal threads are destroyed, just grind some of the threads away , use red loctite permanent and hammer it in place forever. Its just a bike, not an aircraft.
A blade from a hacksaw would make it easier for you as it is much narrower, although like you said... a last resort. The new bottom bracket looks too long; is it truly the same size as the old one?
Sir ,,i have same problem with my BB..I want to upgrade it into 1x hallowtech crankset, but the problem is the drive side were stuck in cant even move..can i use the same technique u did?
It’s easy. Use your head. Buy a SAE bolt long enough to fit all the way through the removal tool, thread it into the spindle to the point where it’s tight then back it off a hair. This keeps the tool from coming out of the bottom bracket set nut. Unscrew as normal now.
The whole point of working on your own stuff is to not pay a shop. I'd rather spend 100 bucks on new tools I can use for the rest of my life, than give some random guy 50 bucks to solve a temporary problem.
A great video. But could you please be kind and add a description that WD-40 is NOT a penetrating oil? Someone might follow the information and use WD to waste time. Like others said, if you live in a country where PB Blaster or similar ready made penetrating oil is not sold, try transmission fluid and aceton mix. Even lemon juice is not too bad but in that case you should not let the juice stay there overnight because it contains water and might further make trouble.
WD40 is NOT a penetrating oil, its a silicone product invented to displace moisture, invented for NASA ( check out the wd40 website....PB Blaster IS a great rust penetrating product
WD-40 is the trademark name of a penetrating oil and water-displacing spray. The spray is manufactured by the WD-40 Company based in San Diego, California.[1] en.wikipedia.org/wiki/WD-40 In some markets it is branding for different products. In other markets the name refers to the original WD-40 product only.
I would put it flat on the floor and get a torch and heat the living hell out of it. I keep my flame om the inside of the bracket tube circling around until it glowed red. Then I'd try my bracket removal tool. You keep heating it sooner or later it's gonna give.
I could have taken out for you in 5 minutes But had one last month on a bike 40 years old took me 3 hours 4 bike shops refused to look at it. for the old lady, she had walked to me 3 hours
You can also redo the cup. Assuming its a new cup. Put it on perfectly straight and then take it off. Do that 2 or 3 times before putting it on permanently. It's an old school trick for restraightening the threads and cleaning things up. It's not 100% but it does help.
Before this vid it is to much of commercial 15 sec...and it is so annoying that they make more and more of that every third month or so...they are horrible...A question to YT. Can youtubers decide if they want commercial or not?
Before you try cutting the BB off, its wiser to find a bike shop. Otherwise if you are unsucessful in cutting it off, the bike shop wont touch the damaged BB.
Hi, great video. I had a similar issue. I went to my LBS and bought an old cup to thread into the drive side so when I started sawing from the non-drive side, I wouldn't damage the threads. Worked like a charm! (It kept the saw level too.)
I think once the drive side is removed, you have access to apply penetrating oil from DS as well. I would apply penetrating oil from inside and outside over several days before resorting to drastic measures. I’m not saying you are wrong to do this but I would only use your measure as a very last resort. Also a Dremel might be a more controlled way to remove metal without thread damage. Thanks for the video.
I just went through the exact same issue. Ended up cutting and tapping it out as you did . Just happy I didn't have to scrap the frame .
Mine was really stuck. I completely chewed up the plastic teeth on the non drive side. So I used my electric impact gun on the drive side. It worked a treat!!
As damaging the threads is inevitable I would have also used a bottom bracket thread chaser tool to clean out the damaged threads before installing the new non-driveside cup.
Things to buy tomorrow:
1. T-Shank Jigsaw Blade
2. 0.5L of Jim Beams Bourbon
🤣🤣🤣
Had great success with penetrating oil, a heat gun and an impact wrench.
Apply the oil let it soak overnight. Reapply oil heat it slowly till u see and smell oil burning off. Ck the temp intermittently with your hands to make sure it’s not too hot.
Let the soak in a couple of minutes and hit it with the impact wrench.
Worked like a charm on two heavily oxidized and seized BB’s.
One was a steel frame the other aluminum.
Go slow and let the heat go the work.
I don’t use any bikes, but the assault bike I have uses the exact same bottom bracket as this bike. And your thought process has literally been mine, even trying the vise with a socket wrench and banging it with a hammer, it’s still not coming loose. So all these tips are awesome. Def gonna try removing the other side first. Thanks for the video!
I had the exact same problem recently. I took the exact same approach, but instead of a saw blade I used a file to gently file 4 notches at the 12, 3, 6 and 9 o'clock positions. Once they were deep enough I hammered the edges just like you did. The thing came out! The threads were damaged but still functional.
My next challenge was rust. There was a significant amount of it inside the bottom bracket shell and in the threads. At the time, I was a bit short of time and patience so I did not try to fully remove the rust (say by soaking the bottom bracket shell in vinegar or lemon juice for 24 hours). I cleaned it as best as I could with WD40 and engine degreaser, regreased the threads and the new bottom bracket and went for it.
I managed to screw in the new bottom bracket with some difficulty (apart from damaged threads there was also rust blocking the threads). It now works nicely but I am not sure what will happen with the next installation or even if a next installation is possible. However, the bike is used as a short distance city commuter. It was bought for 30 euros second hand (+ 15 euros for a new bottom bracket and all new cables + housing). So, in my case, if another installation is not possible, it's not a loss as long as I can take 2 years of life out of it as it is now.
Great videos, keep up the good work!
great tip to hold the BB tool in a vice and then use the frame as a lever. I was scratching my head on how to remove the BB and this meyhod works.
Immerse the nut in diesel for 2 hours/overnight. It worked for me on other rusty stuff in the past ;)
Watched the video, thank you for that. I had a problem with the plastic side getting torn up, and the drive side the tool just skipped. What worked for me was getting a long bolt with a washer to thread into the shaft bol, I had a proper size wrench which I used the circle end to put on the tool. Then I threaded it all on together and used a wrench on the opposite side to get it all really tight (I used vice grips on the threads of the bolt as I didn't have a nut which worked). This solved my problem, thank you for the inspiration!
good for you that you managed with what you had at hand. There is room for a lot of improvement with better tools. A thin hacksaw blade with teeth on one side only, and a hacksaw handle (it can be mounted after it's in the hole).
Apply plenty of axial pressure on the tool to keep it seated so it does not slip and round. The easiest way is to put a washer and a bolt and screw it in the BB spindle to keep the tool seated nicely.
Impact also works like a treat. Impact is less damaging to the threads and splines since the shock will unsettle the thread and will loosen at a considerable lower force, while a linear torque may not budge the thread and also may damage splines since the torque is very high. It's the dynamic action that help - Same as in a couch spring: an obese 140kg person might not break the couch springs just by sitting, but a 20kg kid that is jumping on the couch will definitely snap and bend springs.
Conclusion: fix the tool tightly with a bolt, then get an air impact driver and this is the best start to remove it with minimal stress to the frame and cup and tool.
THANKS
Heat is always a good friend when it comes to stuck screws. Could harm the colors though.
I got my torch Ready
The one thing that you might try is cooling down the BB cup to shrink it just a bit. Not sure how effective that's going to be, but I'd try that before trying the saw option.
very helpful it worked! just gotta be really careful you dont cut too far. thanks!
Hi, where i can find that kind of blade, I ha try to find it on Ebay with different names with no success :(
You can also try to make some kind of cut perpendicular to the line of thread on steal bottom bracket. Preferably a used one or defective bb. The idea is to copy the cut from a hand tap. This cut will clean the corroded thread inside the bb shell. I did this to my frame which was installed in a wrong direction thereby damaging the threads. I successfully corrected the thread using a defective bb with cut like the one on a hand tap.
The vice tip was what I needed, ty
Hi my cap is plastic and I cnt get it out so do u think I would be able to heat it up until it is soft then wrestle it out?
Awesome video. The only thing I suggest to prevent seizing in the future is to use graphite grease on the threads only. Thanks
Sure, I bought this bike. I'm using a Finish Line Anti Seize grease.
If you damage the bb threads there are 'threadless' bottom brackets - these have their own internal thread and will work as a last resort.
wow what kind of saw blade is that?? i tried two new hacksaw blades and both became dull as soon as they touched the hardened race. i got it out by using a die grinder instead but i created a bigger damaged portion of the threads. so what saw blade can cut through a hardened race? (cup and cone adjustable bottom bracket)
Things to try: Dremel grinder, die grinder, light tapping with hammer and cold chisel, attaching the hacksaw blade to saw frame after the blade is though the BB.
Can I use my batery impact driver ?
Soak in diesel over night, the use on pry bar for leverage, piece of pipe on a good quality T bar
good idea. thanks
good video, helpful, ill come back and tellyou if it works, anidea to stop damaging otherside thread owuld be to put some duct tape inside it before you start sawing, maybe
My problem is that everything is left and can not use a metal saw. It is not the same part in the frame for me. It has cogs on a wreath...you have to knock with a hammer counterclockwise but it is STUCK really...Isnt there a big tool to unscrew this or can you drill to get things move averything?
Nice job! I have the same problem right now. I just bent my bottom bracket removal tool trying to get the cup off (after making sure it's the right direction). Now I'm gonna let it sit in WD-40 overnight. We'll see ...
Aha.... Old school persuasion eh... nice one Dany, saved that bike from the scrap heap.
i had the Same Problem SickBiker !!!
Seized BB on a 1994 Parkpre AL U MAX - BUT the PLASTIC BROKE OFF on the DRIVE SIDE ???
and the METAL CUP part of the BB on the NON DRIVE SIDE ? ( Not sure if install Backwards : METAL CUP 99% on the Drive Side )
had to use HEAT on the Aluminum !!!
Come out Counter Clockwise Some threads stuck on the BB
I wish I knew what tooll and what size he's using near the end
You don't know how much time and effort this video has saved.
I removed a seized bottom bracket with lots of penetrating oil over a few days, and then just brute force via about 6 ft of extension bars on the splined socket removal tool. It came out, but it really f*ckd up the thread. I re-threaded it as best as I could, and just about managed to get the new BB in, but I think that damaged the thread even more. I think the next time the BB needs doing, that old steal frame is only going to be good for the scrap yard.
Your bb wrench for the adjustable cup, is very short. Find a pipe that the wrench will fit snugly into it can be PVC, steel etc. It will give you much more leverage. I've even used a small torch to heat up the adjusting cup. Cutting is a last resort, especially if it's a customers bike. Dremels can be very handy if needed. Lay the frame on its drive side and spray the threads with a good penetrating oil, not wd-40, I use Kroil, it's the best. If it will move a little, move it back and forth and apply penetrating oil. Leave it for awhile and keep applying the penetrating oil. A piece of pipe gives you a lot of leverage. I've even taped the wrench on, to keep it from coming off. When you re-assemble everything, dont use grease on the threads, use anti-seize compound. A piece of PVC pipe is great for added leverage in removing stuck pedals also.
That for me, is just to drastic his last method saw off the defective component. Same problem but I will try a air impact tool next then go to that method after trying every thing else !. :)
I had a lot of trouble keeping my tool in the nut. I used C clamp to hold the tool in so it didn't keep slipping out. I'm a beginner and have only removed 3 bottom brackets and the last two gave me that problem. In both, the C clamp did the trick
I have this problem but my right side crank arm is stuck on and broke my crank arm puller and now the thread is gone on the crank arm ??
I had this problem today and I put a piece of wood against the axle, and then hit it hard with a mallet. Then I tried it, it was still stuck, so I hit it again and it worked :-). Did you try that?
My drive side cup and cone bearing cup was stuck and I had no wrench. I paid a machinist a few bucks to weld a short scrap of steel pipe to the cup, then beat the pipe end clockwise till it came off. Nothing else worked, and the inner thread was spared.
Cordless impact.
SickBiker, please tell me what tool you used to cut trough the bottom bracket!
Saw
I would have used the saw blade 4 times on that thing cut at the 6 o clock position the at 3 then at 12 then at 9 so it will be easier to remove and I would also use pb blaster mixed with wd 40 to help loosen it up
Would b easier with a dremel
i use lemon juice for stuck and rust thinks, and work like a charm.
Oggy Morowse Thanks for the tip will try that my self. Question : How do you apply the lemon juice with a brush, or just squeeze the lemon juice on to the affected component, thanks again . :)
Thanks! I'll give it a shot. The drive side gives me a real hardtime .
Hi bro, i have a problem that i can't remove the drive side out like you do, when i try take it out i made drive side nut damaged to can't use tool anymore. So what solution for my problem. Wait to your response. Thanks.
Another tip is to put the assembly back in and bolt the extraction tool to the square pedal spindle to keep it solid when turning it.
why not using a penetrating oil to remove a rusty bolt?
could have used some heat to remove it . that always almost always works .depending on how hot you want to get it . OR a impact drill . that also works great .
cut a deep slot with a grinder , then drive it with air hammer with a chisel bit.
Heat with a blowtorch will loosen dried up old oil. Blowtorch the inside of the tube, not directly on the paint.
You did good, slitting a sleeve bushing is good technique in machining.
If the internal threads are destroyed, just grind some of the threads away , use red loctite permanent and hammer it in place forever.
Its just a bike, not an aircraft.
A blade from a hacksaw would make it easier for you as it is much narrower, although like you said... a last resort. The new bottom bracket looks too long; is it truly the same size as the old one?
Sir ,,i have same problem with my BB..I want to upgrade it into 1x hallowtech crankset, but the problem is the drive side were stuck in cant even move..can i use the same technique u did?
I have the same problem. How did you get it out? :(
I just weld a piece of iron over the cup, the heat from the weld also helps remove the stuck thread....😉
i will use a thin axe saw blade to cut it easy by hand to get weaker working on it slowly not to damage the treads
well it worked, now my hands and arm got sore really badly i cant even sleep but well paid tho..kudos for ht2 for making everything much simple
It’s easy. Use your head.
Buy a SAE bolt long enough to fit all the way through the removal tool, thread it into the spindle to the point where it’s tight then back it off a hair. This keeps the tool from coming out of the bottom bracket set nut. Unscrew as normal now.
Evan Swinford thanks I needed to be talked down to , it’s hard for us with these scraped up knuckles from dragging them on the ground when we walk
I used PB Blaster. A heat gun and my Impact gun
did mine by excessive use of a propane blow torch
But what if you can't get either side of the cartridge out??
Then drill the center out first :D
If you really love your frame, that is. I think it'd be quote the hassle!
Thanks!
My bb is uneven 1 side is higher than the other
Pay workshop to heat then use windy gun with suitable socket on it ,usually works thou as said by a.n.other ,does not help the paintwork.
The whole point of working on your own stuff is to not pay a shop. I'd rather spend 100 bucks on new tools I can use for the rest of my life, than give some random guy 50 bucks to solve a temporary problem.
My mechanic stripped the teeth of my bottom bracket please someone tell me a way to remove it
Haha thanks was turning it the wraong way for hours lol.🙈
A great video. But could you please be kind and add a description that WD-40 is NOT a penetrating oil? Someone might follow the information and use WD to waste time. Like others said, if you live in a country where PB Blaster or similar ready made penetrating oil is not sold, try transmission fluid and aceton mix. Even lemon juice is not too bad but in that case you should not let the juice stay there overnight because it contains water and might further make trouble.
I'm not sure what world you live in because wd40 is a penetrating oil.
WD40 is NOT a penetrating oil, its a silicone product invented to displace moisture, invented for NASA ( check out the wd40 website....PB Blaster IS a great rust penetrating product
WD40 brand name covers a whole lot of products, including an aerosol penetrating lubricant.
WD-40 is the trademark name of a penetrating oil and water-displacing spray. The spray is manufactured by the WD-40 Company based in San Diego, California.[1]
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/WD-40
In some markets it is branding for different products. In other markets the name refers to the original WD-40 product only.
utilisé galium
almost VR :)
I would put it flat on the floor and get a torch and heat the living hell out of it. I keep my flame om the inside of the bracket tube circling around until it glowed red. Then I'd try my bracket removal tool. You keep heating it sooner or later it's gonna give.
Should have tried a chisel and mallet, before cutting.
Old school mechanic trick mix 50% acetone & 50% Auto trans fluid let it soak in for hours guarantee to work.
I could have taken out for you in 5 minutes But had one last month on a bike 40 years old took me 3 hours 4 bike shops refused to look at it. for the old lady, she had walked to me 3 hours
You can also redo the cup. Assuming its a new cup. Put it on perfectly straight and then take it off. Do that 2 or 3 times before putting it on permanently. It's an old school trick for restraightening the threads and cleaning things up. It's not 100% but it does help.
P
Before this vid it is to much of commercial 15 sec...and it is so annoying that they make more and more of that every third month or so...they are horrible...A question to YT. Can youtubers decide if they want commercial or not?
Before you try cutting the BB off, its wiser to find a bike shop. Otherwise if you are unsucessful in cutting it off, the bike shop wont touch the damaged BB.
You cut in2 spots then us a flat head to knock the piece out then it come right out.
use a wire wheel to deburr the threads